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Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute
Wes Door 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE Henry B. Fried 4 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS A "Dauntless" Watch
Fred S. Burckhardt 6 ROCK QUARRY Just a Partyin' Kind of Guy
Wes Door 12 SHOPTALK Across the Showcase
Leo A. Jaroslaw 14 QUARTER STRIKER WITH FORMING REPEAT BY LUKAVElZKI, Part II KNURLS J.P. Kenyon 20 THE APPRENTICE CLOCKMAKER Tools of the Trade, Part 3 38 Archie 8. Perkins 24 TECHNICALLY WATCHES Antique Watch Restoration Part LXXX/11
John Plewes 34 CLOCKS INSIDE & OUT A Gallery Eureka MORE ON J.M. Huckabee 38 AS A CLOCKMAKER TURNS Threading and Screw Making THE ELGIN Marshall F. Richmond 41 PICKLE BARREL WRISTWATCH Jewelry Crafting and Repair Diamond and Stone Setting, Part V 44 Marvin E. Whitney 44 MILITARY TIME Elgin Wristwatch, Part II DEPARTMENTS Woody Woodward SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING 48 Bulletin Board/7 Older Students Make Ask Huck/10 Excellent Watchmakers New Members/23 Association News/43 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American New Products and Literature/SO Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for$40.00 per year ($4.50 per copy News in the Trade/51 in the United States and $50.00 per year, $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.) Second class postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Classified Ads/52 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Dates to Remember/56 Advertisers' lndex/56 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. PHONE (513) 661-3838, AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hour recording), FAX (513) 661-3131. * FELLOWS * OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE
James H. Broughton Harold J. Herman George Daniels Gerald G. Jaeger EXECUTIVE AND EDITORIAL OFFICES Henry B. Fried Robert A. Nelson Josephine F. Hagans *Hamilton E. Pease AWi Central ·Orville R. Hagans Milton C. Stevens P.O. Box11011 Ewell D. Hartman Marvin E. Whitney 3700 Harrison Avenue *Deceased Cincinnati, OH 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838 Fax: (513) 661-3131
Milton C. Stevens: Editor Regina Stenger: Associate Editor President's Message Donna Baas: Production Director Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor In regard to our Movement Bank/Material Search Network, there is good news and bad news. The bad news is the fact that some members have taken Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager advantage of a good thing. They have not followed Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager Mary Sansalone: Seminar Coordinator certain rules which now must be followed. More about this in a moment. The good news is the fact that the Move TECHNICAL EDITORS: ment Bank and the Search Network service is still Robert F. Bishop J.M. Huckabee available to our members. First, what is this ser James H. Broughton John P. Kenyon vice? This service was designed to assist members Fred S. Burckhardt John A. Nagle in finding needed items after they have exhausted David A. Christianson Archie B. Perkins all of their resources. A service fee of $5.00 is required for each request or the donation Charles Cleves Robert D. Porter of a vintage watch movement. (We prefer the watch movement.) It is very important Joe Crooks Marshall F. Richmond to replenish movements which are used up by members and also to increase the Wes Door Marvin E. Whitney inventory of movements in the bank. This service should only be used as a last resort. Henry B. Fried In other words, we are not and do not want to be in competition with any material supplier. So please check all regular suppliers first. AW/ OFFICERS: Many members have not enclosed movements and/or the $5.00 with their request. In the past the honor system was used, but there were too many who routinely Wes Door, CMW: President ignored the fee. The fee and/or movement must be enclosed in order for your request Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: First Vice President to be honored. Remember, our service is to provide movement parts and/or informa Henry Frystak, CMW: Second Vice President tion after exhausting all other resources. Fred S. Burckhardt: Secretary When members request parts, they need to send a watch movement, a check, Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI: Treasurer or give charge card information when the request is placed. This will expedite your request. Also, members need to enclose as much identification as possible. This AW/ DIRECTORS: includes movement size, model number, the part number if known, and, of course, the name of the part. William Biederman, CMW To summarize, let me quote from our December 1990 issue of Horological Robert F. Bishop, CMEW Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW Times on the subject: Charles Cleves After receiving our member's request, A WI will fax it to 23 material Ewell D. Hartman, CMW, FAWI distributors who make up the Search Network. We then forward all positive responses Gerhard Hutter, CMW to the members in need. If the Search Network fails to locate the material required, Robert L. Macomber, CMC we check the Movement Bank for any used spare parts that may be on hand. If the Benjamin Matz, CMW Search Network and Movement Bank fail to locate what you need, we publish this John A. Nagle need in the Horological Times. To date, this service has been 86% successful in Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CMEW, FAWI helping AWI members with their needs. Marshall F. Richmond, CMW As we said before, the fee for each search item is $5.00 or the donation of a vintage watch movement, and we prefer the latter. Hope you can help us so we can Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: Affiliate Chapter Director continue to help you. Remember, this service is for AWI members only. Tony Knorr: Research &Education Council Director Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW: Immediate Past President
Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary David LaFleche: General Manager James Lubic: Technical & Educational Services Manager Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Technical Director ON THE FRONT: Laughing gulls at Cape May, Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written New Jersey. Slide by Jack Goldstein of Cran permission from the American Watchmakers Institute. ford, New Jersey. Copyright ©1992 by the American Watchmakers Institute.
2 Horological Times/November 1992 Holiday Specials from Twin City! ~ ~- , ~~~
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November 1992/Horological Times 3 Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, •FNAWCC
A "Dauntless" Watch
I am hoping you can help Q me identify an old move ment purchased by a customer of mine. He is interested in its origin as well as if the watch has any value. The movement has a split bimetallic balance, flat hairspring, and single roller. The case was a Dueber hunter 14K yellow, with "Dauntless" on the dial. It meas ures 37mm in diameter and has a type of "lever" setting mechanism at the 5 o'clock position. Any help would be appreciated. Doug Thompson Minneapolis, MN
I have examined the photos A of your "Dauntless" watch. The name "Dauntless," as suggested by Mrs. Pritchard, a recognized au thority of name brands of watches, was either owned by the Illinois Watch Company or a dealer who commissioned themfor watches so PLEASE NOTE labeled. Some such watches might When submitting a photo with your have been produced by the Illinois The Dueber Hampden case question to Mr. Fried, besuretheglass Watch Company at Springfieldfor also raises some questions, since has been removed, as well as the item them and the retailer who ordered this maker of watch cases, when photographed against a solid colored thesefromRlinois also ordered some they started a watch company (so background. Be sure to include any from Switzerland. that they'd have an outletfor their and all numbers and markings, with Your model is certainly watch cases) lmportedjrom Swit their location on the movement or case. Swiss and might have been espe zerland. Therefore, it also could be Also, please include an SASE. Send cially produced or labeledfor them a Dueber Hampden import, but to: by the Agassiz Watch Company, some doubt remains in that the "Questions & Answers" whose character it somewhat re name "Dauntless," nevertheless, is c/o Horological Times sembles. The serialized production an Illinois-listed property as such. P.O. Box 11011 number would be more in the Illi Henry B. Fried Cincinnati, OH 45211 nois range and style than the Swiss. 0 4 Horological Times/November 1992 Exceptional quality with exceptional pricing. Only $24.75, wholesale! Are you ready for 11 Combat 11 ! "Combat" is a watchmaker's dream... Why it's a winner... built to extremely high standards for Jules Borel & Company, one of the • ETA 955.114 Seven Jewel Quartz nation's leading suppliers of watch movement, with Sweep Second and materials. quick-change date. • All stainless steel case, with screw And priced at only $24. 75, wholesale. down crown and back. Water-resistant Allowing you to easily "out-value" to 50 meters (Only 30 meters for other your competition. Even the discount competitive watches). houses! Plus, there's no minimum order requirement! • Tritium luminous numbers and hands. Combat is a tough watch. Perfect for • Water-resistant strap with stainless people who prefer an active lifestyle! steel buckle and spring bars.
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Fred S. Burckhardt
Just a Partyin' Kind of Guy
For some reason or another, I can't get the hang of doorbell and could hear the chimes play Brahams' clocks. On the other hand, watches are different; I don't Overture from his famous Major in D Minor. know anything about them. The butler answered the door and I told him I Just the other day I got a call from a woman who had come to see about the clock. He said, "Walk this was rather panicky. She was giving a dinner party, and way." I looked at him and said, "Ifl walked that way in her grandfather clock stopped. She said she had to have my old neighborhood I would have been beaten up!" He it running as it was a conversation piece and her guests didn't think it was funny. like to hear it chime. He led me to a large room where the clock stood Well, to make a long story longer, she said she against the wall. It was a monster, about 12 feet tall, would pay double to get it running again, plus she would with a life-size reclining figure on the top. I knew right let me start mowing her lawn. (Let me explain this; away this was something special because I've only seen when things get slow, I get on the phone and call people three others like it. in the area. I ask if they have any watches or clocks that Not wanting to waste any time, I started to take need fixing. If they say no, I'll ask if they need someone off the hands and dial. Suddenly, the woman who called to mow their lawn, or as a last resort, I'll even do me came in and asked if I thought I could get the clock windows. From what she told me, I must have called her running again. I answered, "It's a big job, but I think I a while back. You see, it pays to advertise.) can get it going again." Then I added, " ... but it's going Anyway, I told her I would come over and take to be expensive ... " a look at the clock and give her an estimate on her lawn "I don't care how much it costs," she said. "I just while I was there. When I arrived, I could see the butler want it to work." (I love it when people say that.) and maids running around getting everything ready for I started back to work. When I lifted off one of the party. Right then, it flashed through my mind that the weights, it slipped and went through the bottom of I would be able to charge more than my regular house the case. The woman came running in wanting to know call fee, which is three dollars. (I think I should raise this what happened. I told her I would have to charge extra a little to keep up with the cost of living.) I rang the for the case repair. Time passed more quickly than I realized. It was getting close to dinner time, and the guests were start ing to arrive. Several of the men came over to watch me WATCHMAKERS-.JEWELERS--CLOCKMAKERS! work so I put on a good show. One asked me ifl would GENUINE: like a cocktail. I replied, "Yeah, get me a cold beer." By Bulova - Longines - Omega - Seiko - Pulsar - Rolex WATCH MATERIALS & CRYSTALS the time dinner was ready, I downed quite a few cold ones and was a big hit with the group. When everybody ALSO CARRYING THE FULL LINE OF: G.S. Crystals, L&R Cleaning Solutions, went in to dinner, I went with them. We all had a great Cleaning and Timing Machines, VIGOR BESTFIT and HAMMEL RIGLANDER PRODUCTS time. It was almost eleven by the time things started I am small enough to try very hard to please you. to break up. I told the woman I would be back later to finish the clock, and that there would be an extra charge NYJ for entertaining her guests. She paid me in full. SUPPLY COMPANY Now I just wonder if that lady will remember Watch Material, Jewelers Supplies & Accessories when I have to mow the lawn. Do you think she'll mind 87 Nassau Street Room 208 New York, NY• 10038 (212) BA7-6677 if I ask when she's going to have another party? 0 6 Horological Times I November 1992 fore, I am hoping you can give me some information on how this strike train should work. Also, what size weight and chain BULLETIN should be used for this type of clock? BOARD HOROLOGICAL HORRORS IN WATCH REPAIR Ron DeCorte, one of A WI's newest instructors, is putting together a class on "Pocket Watch Restoration". This will be A. NEW REQUESTS an advanced course in which students will learn to make small parts, discuss and diagnose problems in watches brought by SLEEVES FOR AMERICAN POCKET WATCHES students, and master specific restoration skills. He would also New traveling courses and Project Extend courses deal with like to point out specific "Horological Horrors" (examples of the American pocket watch. We are having difficulty securing poor workmanship) provided by "Bulletin Board" readers. sleeves to use in the course. If anyone has assortments or odd If you have an example of a pocket watch "horror" lots of American pocket watch sleeves they can donate to the that you can loan or donate to the class, it will benefit those A WI education program, they will be put to good use. taking the class. We are also planning an Introduction/ Intermediate course on pocket watches. DONATIONS FOR THE MOVEMENT BANK The Movement Bank at A WI is a project that has achieved PORCEIAIN REPAIRS, DIALS & CLOCK CASES great success in helping members to keep family treasure From time to time, A WI receives requests from individuals watches for their customers in running condition. Within the who seek to have a porcelain watch dial repaired or dupli last six months donations to the Movement Bank have di cated; others seek to have a porcelain clock case repaired. A minished to the lowest point it has been since its inception. WE recent request comes from Kurt Nielson, Cape Coral, FL. We NEED DONATIONS OF COMPLETE OR PARTIAL VIN are aware of individuals who do this work for their own shops TAGE WATCH MOVEMENTS. but do not accept outside work. We also know of several in England who do accept work from other shops. Ifanyone does this kind of work in this country for the trade, we would like B. RESPONSES to know about it. SCHEMATIC FOR We continue to receive supplemental information to requests C&E MARSHALL CLEANING MACHINE made in the past several months; however, the only positive Bob McGlothin, Stuart, FL, has an ultrasonic cleaning ma responses we have received from last month's requests was for chine, 400 watts, #4184, marketed by C & E Marshall collets for the Schaublin 70 lathe. We still seek to fill in certain Company. He is seeking a schematic for this machine. collet numbers and we especially seek a milling attachment. We still need sources for these items. BADEN JACQUES CLOCK Rick Dunnuck, Julian, NC, has a two-melody tall clock marked Baden Jacques on the back plate. The plate is also C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED marked Reg. U.S. Patent Office. No other patent information, suchasdateornumber, is given.Mr. Dunnuckseeks the actual DUTCH "NOTARY" STAARTKLOK patent date. Eugene Kramer, Mineral Wells, TX, has the following re quest: SCHEMATIC & MANUAL I own a Dutch "Notary" Staartklok which I have FOR ZENITH WATCH CLEANER identified as such through books from the NAWCC and A WI Brian Cavanaugh, Chichester, NH, needs an owner's manual Libraries. and schematic for a Zenith Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Ma The books are fine for identification purposes, but chine. It has two small tanks; the serial number is #644. are lacking in technical assistance. My problem is with the striking mechanism. There appears to be no warning cycle on J.R. BROWN & SHARP TOWER CLOCK this clock. At a few minutes before the hour the front lifting Bent Blondal, Newport, RI, seeks information on a tower lever is pushed up by the pin. This also raises the strike lever clock identified as J.R. Brown & Sharp #3. which releases the warning pin and the striking starts prema turely because there is nothing to stop the warning pin. The strike lever would stop it but cannot go down because the front Do you have information regarding this month's requests? lifting lever is still on top of the pin. Thus the clock continues Do you need information about one of this month's re striking until run down, unless I move the minute hand to make sponses? If so, send a self-addressed, stamped business the front lever fall off the pin, then the strike lever falls and size envelope and your request to: "Bulletin Board," c/o stops the warning pin. A WI Central, 3700 Harrison A venue, Cincinnati, OH Never having encountered such a mechanism be- 45211. 0
November 1992/Horological Times 7 Cleaning and Repairing the Modern Quail Cuckoo Clock by Jim Williams, CC
Quail Cuckoo clocks are in a class by themselves for water-based solution. Use industrial types of solutions several reasons, all of which have to do with their only. I have found L&R #222 or #677 to be very good, construction, so each reason should be fully understood followed by a #3 rinse. There is, and I suppose there by the service technician. always will be, a lot of controversy over solutions and Under the general term of 'cuckoo' are listed oils. However, the reason I do not use a water-based several kinds of movements, all having bellows and solution in dipcleaning is the danger of rusting and pipes (such as the Cuckoo, Quail Cuckoo, etc.), with or streaking. without the regular hammers and gongs of ordinary Most all water-based solutions contain ammo movements (Figure 1). nia, which is hard on the lungs. Therefore, streaking, crinkling, and spotting will usually occur using a water based solution on lacquered plates. By using the nonwater-based solution, there is minimal concern for rust damage, streaking, spotting, or crinkling. If these things do happen, a dipclean turns into disassembly of the trains--which we will get into later on. Always make sure the movement is dried thoroughly. Let's begin thedipcleaningprocess by removing the necessary parts. First, remove the quail gathering rack and the cuckoo lifting wheel off the rear of the movement (Figure 2).
Figure 1 The movement we are going to examine and repair is a Regula 711--a modern Quail Cuckoo clock. Parts that will be identified in this segment are not necessarily the same in all books or languages. For example, "whooping wire" may also be called "whipping wire." A "pendulum suspension" is also called a "pendu lum hanger." Therefore, we will use general terms. I would like to begin by referring to a general term known as "dipcleaning." A beginner understands this term somewhat, and likewise should start in the horology field learning to do basics like crawling before walking, and walking before running, etc. Let's begin by examining a clock that needs a dipcleaning. When dipcleaning a movement, there are certain parts that must be removed to prevent gumming up of these parts. Before we get into removing these parts, how Figure 2 ever, you should understand that I do not recommend a 8 Horological Times/November 1992 Removing the gathering pin wheel and quail lifting pin wheel is optional for dipcleaning. If they are removed, you must notice the position of the gathering pin and the singled quail pin at full rest "completed quail sequence" before removal, for it is of utmost importance that these are in sync (Figure 3).
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Figure 3
No. 362 ...... 34c No. 364 ·--··· -·- -·--· ··························· ············· 28C No. 371 ···································- -- -·· ············· 35C No. 377 ··············-·--································ ·· 3&C No. 379 ...... 42C No. 389 ...... 35C No. 392 ...... 22C No. 397 ...... 35C No. 399 ...... 38C No. 2016 ...... 61C
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Figure 4
Next, on the dial side of the movement, remove TOLEDO the minute wheel, hour wheel, and the gathering rack (Figure 4). JEWELERS For the dipcleaning, I recommend using a clean 245 Twenty Third Street solution only. Never clean four or five clocks, and then Toledo. OH 43624 try a dipclean, for the results aren't good. Use a good, clean, "new" solution for three to five minutes maxi mum; then a rinse for six to eight minutes maximum. 24-Hour Toll Free Ordering 1(800) 537-0260 Timing of the cleaning process is very important so as Order Now ... Fax (419) 241-4594 not to cause damage (crinkling) to the lacquered plates. Dry thoroughly. (Please turn to page 22)
November 1992/Horological Times 9 By J.M. Huckabee CLOCKMAKING BITS CMC, FBHI .9L6out ...
WINDING ARBOR PROBLEMS the most difficult dimension to achieve. By starting with a piece of raw material that is overlength, turn and a slow taper and press the hub in place. Now work out LATHE CHUCKING PROBLEMS other dimensions from the hub. This plan makes it easy to achieve the secure fit needed. Mild steel is a Q. What can I do to restore the winding arbor suitable material for the old American clocks. square? Key socket wear and wear on the arbor So, what is the best way? It depends on your square is a problem on many of the old American resources, skill, and degree of damage. clocks. What is the best solution?
A. Let's discuss the problem and a number of solutions. What is best involves a number of possi Q. Try as I may. almost everything I chuck up bilities. in my watchmakers lathe runs untrue. How long A brass key socket will stretch and wear quite will a wire chuck remain true, and would you rapidly. The mild steel square also wears rapidly. In recommend frequent chuck replacement? fact, a new key may be all that is necessary in some instances. A. Most watchmakers use the lathe very little, In some cases the key may be tightened so I'll discuss this from the clockmaker's standpoint. somewhat by screwing it up in a strong vise. Try Let's discuss the lathe first. This may be the alternating the pressure on different axes. problem. Not that the lathe is bad, but it may need a Another possibility is to secure the arbor little attention. Disassemble the spindle and inspect square in a vise and work the size down to the next the bearing cones. These should be well lubricated smaller key. A large flat file is a suitable tool. and assembled to near zero clearance. Pull your belt Often we find a clock that has been wound away from the spindle in a slight leftward direction to with a pliers or a small wrench. This usually leaves keep the remaining spindle slack in the leftward the arbor square beyond any form of expedient direction. Unless your lathe has dust shields better repair. To these jobs, there is little possibility of than most, lube the spindle about 4-6 times per hour redemption short of a new arbor. On a few occasions of running and at the beginning of each use. Keep the I've cut off the old square and silver soldered a new bearings flushed clean! one in place. Unless you have suitable square key The spindle mouth should be spotlessly clean. stock available, and you are very adept at silver Any trace of tarnish or metal particle gauling should soldering, the job will turn out poorly. be removed with a very fine abrasive, such as a Making a new arbor is also a job attendant Scotch-Brite™ scouring pad. Wipe the spindle bore with many problems. This is at the near limit of the with a lightly oiled patch of paper towel. ability of a watchmakers lathe in length, diameter, When the above procedures are complete, power, and tool bit ability. An added problem is that run the spindle at moderate speed and feel the of making the square by hand methods. Still another spindle mouth with the tip of a small ball-end brass item is the problem of a piece of raw material that can rod. If no spindle run-out is detected, your lathe is accommodate the press-fit of the hub parts. OK. Ifrun-out is present, consideralightre-cutofthe Our job boils down to the truth of the winding spindle mouth. Be sure you understand the collet square damage being a difficult repair. geometry and know where to cut; this action is A small lathe in the Unimat III class is more irreversible! Most spindles can be cut with a good, useful making a winding arbor, more so if it is hard graver, and a cut of 1-2 thousandths of an inch equipped with milling and indexing attachments. I is usually sufficient. Properly done, the lathe accu usually begin by cutting the hub seat first as this is racy is restored to like new.
10 Horological Times/November 1992 Now to the collets. Tarnish on or in the collet spoils its accuracy. Use the Scotch Brite pad on the outside, but cleaning rust or tarnish from the collet CHRISTMAS* bore is very difficult. The region that the work seats in is the important place. Unless the collet has been GALORE! abused badly, it can be restored to essentially like * new accuracy. When the lathe and collet are in good order, * $ what can we expect? Drawn wire, such as old Ameri can clock movement arbors, will not run true. This material is neither round, smooth, or straight! Like wise, hot-rolled and cold-rolled steel and extruded 2 rods of brass will not run true. Ground, dimension ally true stock will run true when clean and carefully 3 chucked. 4 The most precision work is held between centers, yet we use the collets for practical conve nience and improved productivity. Work that ex tends beyond the collet by more than a half inch or so must be supported by a center, steady rest, or other device. It is unrealistic to expect everything SANTA CHRISTMAS TREE placed in a collet to run perfect. 0 Large mod-style watch Quality quartz mod-size with 1 3/8" dial. Santa is watch with sparkling If you have a question, please write: in full costume and green, red and blue "Ask Huck." c/o Horological Times, highlighted with sparkling decorated Christmas tree P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. glitter. Quality quartz on the 1 3/8" dial. Yellow movement. Yellow case, case, green leather band. Christmas red leather 140102 ...... $10.50 band. 140103 ...... $10.50
GENUINE WATCH MATERIALS * * ANIMATED ALARM TOOLS - FINDINGS - JEWELRY Popular sized animated alarm with COMPLETE CRYSTAL DEPT. red case and silver SEIKO - PULSAR - LORUS bells. 61/2" height with ROLEX - BULOVA 3 1/2" dial, 30 hour AMERICAN & SWISS MATERIAL mBchanical alarm movement. Dial scene SERVING THE INDUSTRY SINCE 191 3 is Santa with his bag of NO MINIMUM ORDER presents, a Christmas EVEREADY & RAY-0-VAC CELLS tree and dancing rabbit that moves as the clock ticks. 143219 ...... $7 .50 WM. S. McCAW CO. 1722 MADISON AVE. S. ,L{7r{J~1nc. TOLEDO, OHIO 43624 'Wodtfwitfe 'IJistributors to J{oro[ogists TEL 41 9-243-3720 '~~;\l/ November 1992/Horological Times 11 SHOPTALK Wes Door, CMW ACROSS THE SHOWCASE Selling from behind the showcase emphasizes our role benefits. Benefits are what the features do for our as guardians of the merchandise. Our customers will customers. recognize us as the merchants; however, it seems as Have you ever heard a salesperson rattle on and though we should be recognizable enough just being on in a very knowledgeable way and really do an dressed in neat clothes, having nice manners, and the excellent job of explaining all important features, but ability to convey our thoughts in a knowledgeable lose the sale because he/she was unable to relate those manner. features as benefits? It is nice for the customer to know Why have showcases? Obviously we need some that this watch is quartz and that it is the newest thing, where to store our merchandise, and it's nice if our but unless we tell our customer what all of this means customers can view a certain quantity ofour goods. This in terms of benefits to him or her, then all is lost. We especially encourages impulse buyers who do constitute might say: Yes, this is a quartz watch. This means it has a vast number of our sales. a small piece of quartz vibrating over 32000 each sec Some businesses do more of a volume business ond. This makes this watch very accurate. You won't than we do and without any showcases; for instance, our have to keep setting it every few days like you need to friendly banker. He/she sits behind a desk and allows us do with your old watch. Also, this watch runs on a small to sit down and discuss our business across a low, battery, so you do not need to wind this watch ever. If unobtrusive desk. We feel that he/she can truly see our you take your watch off your wrist and set it on your point of view, although sometimes their answers to our dresser even for several days, it will still be running. money borrowing requests may indicate otherwise. As another example, suppose we are showing a Certainly there are areas of this bank that are guarded diamond. The features of the diamond are its color, with windows with pretty tellers·behind them, but the clarity, carat weight, and cut. But without explaining old-fashioned bars have been removed. how these features will benefit our customer, we do not Likewise, in our quest to keep up with the have a sale. We must be careful not to dwell on the bankers, we could improve our selling conditions. Maybe features, but reserve most of the selling time to explain we could modernize just one ofour showcases by sawing benefits. Surprising enough, the more we know, the off the legs (or whatever is necessary to lower its height) harder it is to be humble enough to give our customer and placing comfortable chairs in front of it for our small doses. We must remember most people have customers to use. We might add a wall around this sit limited time to spend with us. Sometimes it seems as down showcase and call this our gem room or diamond though they have double-parked and they rush in and room. This could encourage our customers to spend more want to make a purchase before getting a ticket. of their bankrolls with us. I remember one customer who sat down in my As you may have noticed, I have talked both diamond room and noticed my GIA diploma on the wall. against the showcase and for it . .However, before you He remarked, "I see you are a gemologist." I answered typecast me as a politician, I must admit to a more by saying, "Yes." Two minutes later I was closing a nice meaningful purpose. That purpose is to explain two sale; very few words were said about features and just words that can make the difference between a sale and a few words were said about the benefits. Actually, he no sale. These words are features and benefits. We tell knew the major benefit--he would be engaged. customers the features but they only buy the benefits. We might even want to adopt the adage, "the From behind the showcase we can explain an item's fewer words the better." A friend of mine did. He was features, but we must make our customers feel that we working in an appliance store and he noticed a lady are on their side of the counter when we explain the looking at a new stove. He walked over to her and said, 12 Horological Times/November 1992 "We can deliver this to you this afternoon. Will that be all right?" Guess what the lady said. No, you guessed wrong. She said, "That would be fine." I'm sure that even my friend wouldn't advocate ' #,JI I PERFE. CT FIT using just eight words to open, discuss, and close all sales, but it does just about prove that in selling, nothing CO. is impossible. This lady must have already realized the /?~ 0:~~~~l~L good features of the stove, and must also have known J ~ MINERAL GLASS CRYSTALS how it would benefit her. The fact that it could be delivered that afternoon was all she needed to hear to $65.95 close the sale. CALL YOUR NEAREST Incidentally, the salesman was on the same side "PERFECT FIT CRYSTAL" of the counter as the customer since they don't have DISTRIBUTOR NOWll counters in their appliance section. We should also make our customer feel as though there is no showcase M. BERESH, INC. S. KRAMER, INC. between them and us. Oak Park, MI Orlando, FL As we stand behind our showcases, let's explain 1-800-482-2979 1-800-621-3746 the features of our merchandise. However, let's pretend BUFFALO JWRS. SUPPLY LIVESAY'S, INC. we are on the same side of the counter as the customer Buffalo, NY Tampa, FL when we explain the benefits. Being on the opposite side 1-716-845-6055 1-800-476-2715 of the showcase may give our customers the erroneous CBS WATCH MATERIAL MAHAR 8t ENGSTROM CO. impression that we cannot see their point of view. Norcross, GA Quincy, MA Remember, telling features without the follow 1-800-233-2332 1-800-221-6320 through benefits is like the expression "heap big smoke COLMAN'S-BOREL MURRAY JWRS. SUPPLY but no fire." So let's not get fired, but get fired-up. Don't Cleveland, OH Tucker, GA let the showcase be a barrier, even though we are across 1-800-362-0558 1-800-535-8560 the showcase from our customers. Then our customers DAVIDSON JWRS. SUPPLY NEWARK JWRS. SUPPLY will buy. D San Diego, CA Maplewood, NJ 1-800-522-1565 1-201-762-2222 DAVIS SUPPLY NORVELL-MARCUM CO. Roanoke, VA Tulsa, OK The new QTM 901 is the most complete 1-800-533-6293 1-800-234-6626 diagnostic test meter on the market. CHARLES DVORKIN 8t CO. OTTO-FREI BOREL Chicago, IL Oakland, CA It is designed by a watchmaker, for a watch 1-800-666-2324 1-800-772-3456 maker, and is watchmaker affordable. E 8t J SWIGART co_ PAGE 8t WILSON, LTD. The QTM 901 tests: Cincinnati, OH Vancouver, B.C. 1) Magnetic pickup of coil. 1-800-543-0309 1-604-685-8257 2) Battery and circuit output voltages. 3) Current consumption. S. FARGOTSTEIN 8t SONS JAMES J. SHEELY 4) Coil resistance. Memphis, TN Lancaster, PA 1-800-238-9226 1-800-222-2540 5) Watch mechanically. It has a variable voltage power supply, is easy to use (one FINN TIME PRODUCTS TMPCO. 7-position switch), and video tapes are available for Lake Worth, FL Seattle, WA demonstrations. Available from most material supply 1-407-533-1103 1-800-458-6158 houses. GOLDMAN'S JWRS. SUPPLY TOLEDO JWRS. SUPPLY THE BEST PART! New York, NY Toledo, OH All this for only $395.00! 1-212-925-3170 1-800-537-0260 HERR 8t KLINE, INC. T.W. HEATER, INC. Norfolk, VA San Francisco, CA 1-800-446-8094 1-800-652-1161 For information, call or write: INDIANA JWRS. SUPPLY T.W.M. Indianapolis, IN Albuquerque, NM 1-800-382-9973 1-505-275-0841 FINN TIME IOWA JEWELERS SUPPLY WM. WERKHAVEN 8t SON PRODUCTS, INC. Des Moines, IA Columbus, OH 1-614-263-7212 200 Lake Avenue 1-800-532-1140 Suite202 KINGSTON JWRS. SUPPLY Lake Worth, FL 33460 Chattanooga, TN (407) 533-11 03 1-800-242-8488 November 1992/Horological Times 13 Repeater, Quarter Striker, Petite/Grande Sonnerie, & Music Box Clocks Leo A. Jaroslaw ©1992 All rights reserved by the author. QUARTER STRIKER WITH REPEAT BY LUKAVETZKI PART II REPEAT - STRIKE SILENT OPERATION INTRODUCTION Repeat Operation NOTE: Numbers in ()following a part name refer to In Part I we discussed a description and some of the the schematic in Figure IF in the October 1992 issue. history of the clock this article is about. We also Use these same nwnbers to follow the action in covered the control and operation of both the quarter Figures 2G & H. and hour strike systems in normal operation. In Part Notice that the repeat lever ( 1) has a hole in its II we will cover the repeat components and operation, outer right-hand blade. This is for attaching a string and then discuss the strike silent components and or pull cord for remote initiation of the repeat. On the operation. upper left side of the dial is a circle with a pointer. Figure 1F. Strike control system. 1. Repeat lever 2. Quarter rack hook 3. Quarter rack hook lift pin 4. Flirt 5. Quarter gathering pallet 6. Quarter rack 7. Quarter rack pallet stop 8. Quarter strike snall 9. Minute wheel 10. Quarter strike lift pins (4) 11. Strike warning lever 12. Hour strike rack 13. Hour strike rack hook 14. Hour strike rack pallet stop 15. Hour strike rack lock pin 16. Hour strike rack lock lever 17. Hour strike double-winged gathering pallet 18. Hour strike snail 19. Star wheel 20. Jumper 21. Strike rack hook tail 22. Flirt tail 23. Flirt spring 24. Strike warning lever spring 28. Hour strike unlocking pin 25. Lock lever lift pin 29. Hour rack hook stop NOTE: Not to scale 26. Lock lever tail 30. Repeat lever extension rod 27. Quarter rack tail 31. Hour rack tall 14 Horological Times/November 1992 This is marked in German - "REPETIRT" - REPEAT and "REPETIRT NICHT" - REPEAT NO. I will call this the repeat control. With repeat control on, the repeat lever (1) and its extension (30) creates several almost simul taneous actions: 1. The repeat lever (30) contacts and lifts the lock lever lift pin (25 ), lifting the hour strike rack lock lever ( 16) off of the hour strike lock pin ( 15), unlock ing the hour rack. 2. The repeat lever extension contacts and lifts the quarter rack hook (2). This releases the quarter rack (6) which rotates counterclockwise until its tail (27) contacts and rests on the step of the quarter strike snail (8) which is in position. 3. The left side of the quarter rack, in moving Figure 2A. Repeat-strike silent controls. counterclockwise, contacts and pushes the strike rack hook tail (21 ). This releases the hour strike rack 5. Both gathering pallets (5 and 17) are now which has been unlocked. The rack now rotates released. The hour strike train goes to warning. The counterclockwise until its tail contacts a step on the quarter train goes into operation without warning, hour strike snail (18). repeating the last quarter struck. When the rack is 4. The tail of the strike warning lever ( 11) gathered up, the strike warning lever ( 11) is shifted, which rides in the slot in the left side of the quarter unlocking the strike train. The last hour struck is rack is shifted as the rack moves counterclockwise. repeated. This rotates the strike warning lever ( 11) clockwise, NOTE: In normal operation, the hour strikes placing it in position to stop the strike train in only on the hour. In repeat, the last hour strikes upon warning condition. completion of the last quarter strike. FOUNTAIN PENS WANTED I WISH TO PURCHASE PENS BY PARKER & WATERMAN WITH FILIGREE METAL OVERLAY & MOTHER OF PEARL INLAY MADE BETWEEN 1900-1930 ALONG WITH OTHER HIGH-GRADE UN USUAL OLDER PENS. PENS MUST BE IN EXCELLENT CONDITION FREE OF CRACKS & DENTS FOR THESE PRICES. DAMAGED PENS ALSO WANTED ALONG WITH PARTIAL PENS AT LOWER PRICES. PAYING $7,000 +UP FOR PARKER OR L.E. WATERMAN SNAKE PEN CLEVES & LONNEMANN JEWELERS STORE: Charles Cleves 319 FAIRFIELD AVE., BELLEVUE, KY 41073 HOME: November 1992/Horological Times 15 Repeat - Shutoff position the lower shoe of the lever rests atop the The pointer on the repeat control is rotated by hand hour strike rack lock lever ( 16). It therefore cannot to the "REPETIRT-NICHT" position until it stops. The unlock (Figures 2C & D). repeat stop pointer rotation ends when the lever At the same time the repeat lever extension behind the dial butts the dial post (Figure 2B). In this rod (30) is stopped when it comes up against the lock STRIKE SILENT LEVER ~EPEAT SHUTOFF LEVER I ' Figure 2B. Repeat-strike silent controls, rear of dial. ;"REPE. T SHUTOFF LEV~R I • Figure 2C. Repeat shutoff - repeat position. Figure 2D. Repeat shutoff - repeat off position. 16 Horological Times/November 1992 . STRIKE SILENT LEVER 4 - Figure 2E. Strike silent - strike position. Figure 2F. Strike silent - silent position. TIME FOR ACCURACY WITSCHI ELECTRONICS USA, Ltd. P.O. Box 2, 34 E. Henry St. Palmyra, NJ 08065-0002 Tel.: 1-800-882-7977 Fax: 1-609-829-2266 The complete state of the art test in strument for quartz watches. 6000 Pro has the option to reprogram EEPROM IC's.* For the Watchmaker of the 90's** WATCH EXPERT Q WICOMETRE HIGH TECH Comparable to the Wico metre High - Q TEST PLATFORM Tech yet scaled down in price and An exceptional instrument for the testing An option fo r the Watch parameters: ie. maximum timing length of mechanical watches with optional Expert Q, whi ch will give the (20 sec. vs 240 sec.) graph magnification . . ":::--::- ::e \ Oscilloscope. rate, graph and sound of any (5 vs 10). Optional Test Platform instead . --- . - - quartz watch - up to one min. of the Oscilloscope. "gate time (inhibition)", LCD * All European EEPROM IC's - right now watch, or tuning fork watch. 3 programs can handle the 10 European .o EEPRO M IC's but the instrument has the NOTE: capacity of 10 programs and can be updated • Two year warranty (parts and labor) on all in the States. equipment. I "- 1------WITS CH I ** The Wa tch Expert Q can be substituted for • Most repairs will be handled in the States. the Wicometre High Tech in the Watch • Reasonable payment terms available. '-/ Maker of the 90's package November 1992/Horological Times 17 REPEAT LEVER LT!:. SIOK 17~ ::~ 15 ~ 18 8 Figure 2G. Repeat control - strike unlocked. Figure 2H. Repeat control - normal position, strike locked. lever lift pin (25) on the immobilized lock lever (Figure pointer counterclockwise until it contacts the stop 2H). Therefore, if properly adjusted, the quarter pin. This rotates the strike/ silent lever (Figure 2B, C, strike is not tripped either. and E). A shoe on the bottom of the lever contacts the With repeat in shutoff, the hour strike is flirt, pushing it down clockwise (Figure 2F). In this locked out. However, the quarter strike will continue position the flirt tail (22) in Figure 2G is lifted out of as long as the clock continues to run. the path of the quarter strike lift pins. This, in effect, prevents initiating of the quarter strike train with the Strike Silent time train in operation. If the quarter strike is inop On the upper right side of the dial is a circle with a erative, so is the hour strike. pointer (Figure 2A). This circle, which I will call the This action, however, does not silence the "STRIKE/SILENT CONTROL", is marked in German repeat system. If the repeat control is in repeat "SCHLAGT-SCHLAGT NICHT". Schlagt translates to position, both the quarter and hour strikes will "strike", nicht to "no". The pointer on the "STRIKE sound when the repeat is initiated. SILENT" control is connected through the dial to the In Part III we will discuss some critical adjust strike silent lever (Figure 2B). ments and some unusual components in the move To silence the strike, by hand rotate the ment. D GENUINE CROCODILE PAOOEO & STITCHED AVAILABLE IN SHINY OR DULL ANISH 9116 5/8 21/32 11116 3/4 13ft6 14tnm 16mm 17mm 18mm 19mm 20mm Black, Brown, Peanut, Always In Stock. Also on request: Red, Graen, Blue, Burg~ Gray These Watch Bands Retail In Fine SI ores for 575.00 Each OUR PRICE $15.coea. 1950s Style (Not Tapered) Send Check To: The Watch Band Co. MADE IN USA 702 Overlook Ave. Cincinnati, Ohio 45238 THE WATCH BAND CO. OR CALL 1-(800)-927-7832 FAX 1-(513)-651-5624 ($15~2 )$Robert Ridenour 'Mlcmit~ICAMt-OtU . ,,. -=~~ 18 Horological Times/November 1992 TAPE 21: Approximately 2 hours J.M. HUCKABEE'S SUBJECT MATTER: Making an American clock verge. Huckabee demonstrates how to select and work raw materials into a verge for an Ingraham miniature kitchen clock ''Random Clock Talks'' time only. TAPE 22: Approximately 2 hours The series of 37 "Random Clock Talks" videotapes listed below are available for loan SUBJECT MATTER: Completion of making a verge for an Ingraham kitchen clock from to AWi members from the AWi Audio Visual Library. The tapes vary in viewing time Tape 21. Also random tips and cutting a from 1.25 to 2.00 hours and are available in the VHS format. A service charge of 32-tooth recoil escape wheel for an Ansonia $5.00 each is to accompany requests to borrow a tape; only one tape is loaned at a kitchen clock. time. The service charge covers AWi's production and shipping costs. Tapes should be TAPE 23: Approximately 2 hours returned to AWi within 7 days after receipt, insured for $30.00. Please order tape SUBJECT MATTER: Pivot and bushing by number along with your name, address, and $5.00 service charge. Send to: AWi problems and their repair. Audio Visual Library, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45211. TAPE 24: Approximately 2 hours Not available at this time. TAPE 1: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 12: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: A brief view and SUBJECT MATTER: Using a custom-made discussion of a variety of clocks and tools attachment to make wheels and index plates used in the Huckabee shop. on the Unimat lathe. The custom-made TAPE 25: Approximately 2 hours attachments can be made from drawing SUBJECT MATTER: Clock mainspring TAPE 2: Approximately 2 hours available from AWi upon request (cost to and barrel work. SUBJECT MATTER: Demonstration and cover printing and postage is $2.00). discussion on using various tools and lathes TAPE 26: Approximately 2 hours to make and fit a clock bushing. TAPE 13: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Clock mainspring ends SUBJECT MATTER: Cutting clock wheels and barrel teeth. Huckabee demonstrates TAPE 3: Approximately 2 hours a demonstration of cutting the wheels used how to replace teeth in the barrel of an SUBJECT MATTER: Discussion and dem in the AWi CMC examination. Urgos 8- November 1992/Horological Times 19 The Avvrentice .L .L Clockmaker J.P. Kenyon, CMC TOOLS OF THE TRADE THE BENCH AND BENCH ACCESSORIES PART3 Since many hours of hard work and hopefully an enjoy clocks needs to be approximately 60 inches wide and 30 able trade is developing into a lifetime profession, it is inches deep. The bench height should be about 40 inches rational that certain fundamental factors be considered or high enough for the apprentice to be able to stand in by the apprentice when selecting and arranging a comfort while working, since many tasks are carried out workbench and bench acressories for clock repair. During from a standing position. If two or more benches are the years to come, many challenging hours will be spent used, their height should be uniform. Ifnot, a change of at the bench and it is desirable to have enjoyable style when filing, sawing, and in similar applications working conditions in respect to lighting, temperature, will result (while standing), and the apprentice will and surroundings in general. To use your skills to the have to get used to the new conditions. The edge of the best advantage, you should work in a comfortable posi top surface should be grooved (at least in the front) to tion with the bench accessories conveniently arranged. prevent parts from rolling off. The bench should have a A typical arrangement of the working surface is sug low gloss finish to cut down on glare and should be gested in Figure 1. The workbench and each of the attached to the floor, sturdy enough to prevent wob accessories illustrated will be discussed. bling. One or more tool drawers and a lap tray to catch fallen parts is desirable. WORKBENCH The standard watchmaker's bench has desirable fea CHAIR tures, such as a catch-all tray and drawer space, but not A bench chair of adjustable height, with a full-sized, enough elbowroom for clocks. The work surface for adjustable, cushioned seat and back should be used to encourage proper posture, which will minimize bench fatigue. It is helpful to have a foot rest, either on the chair itself or attached to the bench. The chair should be c equipped with smooth rolling casters. BENCH LAMP A There are several kinds of bench lamps available to the F clockmaker. For those who prefer fluorescerit lighting. supply houses sell a standard two-bulb (15 watts each) fluorescent bench lamp. This style provides a uniform, cool light over a large work area. If incandescent light is preferred, a 40 or 60 watt soft white bulb is suitable, but it should be kept in mind that heat will be generated on A. Bench top E. Vise B. Chiiir F. Anvil c. Lomp G. Bench Pin D. Bench Pl ate Figure 1. Top view ofworkbench showing location ofbench accessories. Figure 2. Bench pin with "V" slot. 20 Horological Times I November 1992 the work area by this type of bulb. There are combina tion lamps available with both fluorescent and incan descent bulbs that can be lighted separately or together. Lamps should be clamped to the side of the bench to conserve valuable top surface that would be required for a base. The lamp arm should have counter-balanced spring action so that it can be moved to various positions or held stationary. Most bench lamps have the interior of the shade enamelled white, and some have diffusers fitted into the shade to cut down on glare. Another type of bench lamp has a 5- or 6-inch diameter magnifier lens with a 12- to 15-inch focus that enables the apprentice to work with constant light Vigo~ WATCHMAKERS BENCH under magnification. Beautifully finished watchmakers bench. Safety groove across front of hardwood surface and on 3 sides of ledge. Top surface has 3 coats BENCH PLATE of polyurethane. Features eye level work area, 19 drawers, and a catch tray. A bench plate is not an essential component, but a desirable one to have. It provides a local work station Stock #BN-225C and protects the bench top. One type of bench plate is made of masonite with a white enamel finish. The edge is grooved to $49$.00 prevent parts from rolling off. Another one is made from a green rubberized material that won't reflect light. Some clockmakers devise their own bench plate from a •••••••••••••••••••••••••••• desk blotter or a vinyl material. REPAIR ENVELOPES a,. v-scor" VISE Each numbered envelope has two numbered detachable stubs, one for the customer, the other for filing. Envelopes A bench vise with a jaw width of at least 3 inches is measure S 3/4" X 3 1/s" and come packed 1,000 to a box. essential. (Smaller vises have limitations in clockwork.) ~la.HU Triple No. Series Numbers Duty! ~ ...... 61 .151 1 to 1,000 ,~------, 61 .152 1,001 to 2,000 **ROLEX WATCH MATERIAL** 61 .153 2,001 to 3,000 61.154 3,001 to 4,000 IL IHI FOR GREAT SERVICE OnlJ' -- 61.155 4,001 to 5,000 -- 61.156 5,001 to 6,000 ON ALI. CROWNS, $39.ts -- 61.157 6,001 to 7,000 61.158 7,001 to 8,000 & ~ SAPPIDRE PLASTIC perboz - 61 .159 8,001 to 9,000 CRYSTALS, TUBES, GASKETS, ~ 61.160 9,001 to 10,000 MOVEMENT PARTS, ETC. • ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• GLASS DATE MAGNIFIERS CALL: S&G INDUSTRIES Now you can add a cyclops window to your customers watch without replacing the crystal. This window adds a TOLL FREE 1-800-942-0047 touch of elegance and can even assist those with poor eyesight in FAX: 1-800-423-4256 viewing the date indicator on their watch dial. Available in 2 sizes. Stock #CRY-WD-4555 4.5mm x 5.5mm ~ 'WE STOCK WHAT WE SELL" #CRY-WD-5570 5.5mm x 7.0mm ~ E~S[Z WE GIVE QUICK AND EFFICIENT SERVICE 24 HOURS A DAY? 7 DAYS A WEEK! NJ: 1-908-469-7200 ~------J November 1992 /Horological Times 21 It can be clamped to the bench or fastened to the edge MODERN QUAIL CUCKOO CLOCK with screws. Fastening with screws is preferred in the (Continued from page 9) case of a bench with drawers, since the clamp might interfere with opening the drawers. The suction cup For oiling, I recommend a synthetic oil, such as type is not stable enough to be safe. Some vises have a 859 Etsyntha. I have conducted tests, recorded the swivel base that can be locked in any position. The results, and as a result I always use this product for this better vises have twin guide rods, or 'V" slots to keep particular movement. jaws parallel and rigid. When you assemble the parts, begin by turning the minute hand shaft past the hour cam. The one-hour ANVIL An anvil can be used as a base for riveting, flattening, cam is longer than the 1/2-hour. Set the snail and rack bending, and forming. It should be case hardened, 4 to at the 12 o'clock position (Figure 5). 6 inches across the horns, and 2 to 3 inches high. One horn should be ground flat, the other round. One or more holes in the top are handy for drilling or riveting. BENCH PIN Although it is not an essential tool, a bench pin with a "V" slot is very useful. It is made from wood and is about 7 inches long and 3 inches wide and can be clamped or screwed to the bench. The "V" slot is an excellent support for filing and sawing, especially when working on wheel teeth (Figure 2). REGULATING TABLE A separate table should be dedicated to clock regulating and testing. It should be steady, level, and placed in a draft-free location, where it will not be bumped. One or more movement stands can be placed on the table to hold movements for adjustment prior to putting them into the cases. Also, clocks that have been completed are placed here for a test run and final regulation. Figure 5 MACHINE TABLE The optimum shop will have a sturdy table set up with To ensure proper positioning of the rack and machinery such as a lathe, drill press, bench grinder, snail, turn 13 hours to make sure the 1:00 strikes flexible shaft tool, bushing tool, and large vise. By correctly. Even the experienced clockmaker can be a separating these operations from the bench area, con tooth off on occasion. No oil is needed on these parts. tamination of other movements with filings and metal However, some clockmakers grease the minute hub. chips will be avoided. Don't forget to oil the clutch. Spr1"!J CLEANING TABLE I A cleaning table near a sink in a well-ventilated area is needed for the cleaning machine, rinse tank, and dryer. The table should have a fireproof cabinet below for storage of cleaning chemicals and combustible materi als. If you removed the gathering pin wheel and the quail pin wheel, place them on in the proper position. A FINALE little oil here is recommended. Place the quail gathering Since a number of articles have been written about the rack on, then place the cuckoo lifting wheel in posi~ion. different types ofordinary hand tools (pliers, screwdriv You are now ready to install the movement into the case ers, hammers, etc.) and their use, we will skip them, and and test it. in the next installment explore the removal and disas One additional thought on oiling to be remem sembly of a two-train movement. The use of specialty bered: Parts working on gravity (such as the gathering tools will be integrated and discussed as required; then, rack, bellow levers, hammers, etc.) should not be oiled later on, we will introduce some of the time-saving because when the oil ages it becomes gummy, and auxiliary tools that can be fabricated in the shop. gravity parts like the gathering rack can malfunction. 0 I hope this information has been helpful. We will continue with the quail-cuckoo in a future is.sue. D 22 Horological Times I November 1992 NEW MEMBERS ADAMS, John--Leichhardt, Australia FORD, Ken--Bunya Downs, Australia MENDOZA, Kerr-Parooise Point, AIKEN, Kenneth J.--Montpelier, VT FOX, Allen--Kaamazoo, Ml Australia ALEXANDER, Wayne--Ric:hmood, VA GLUESENKAMP, Eric W.-Fallbrook, CA Mill.ER, Robert A-Las Vegas, NV ANDREVVS, John W.--Charlottesville, VA GOLDBERG, Leri-San Pecto, CA NAZI, Sameera-Woodside, NY BAHTIARIAN, Alex-Ertje.vood, NJ GONZALEZ, Gilbertcr-Ne.v York, NY PEARCE, Cheryl-Coomba:>Sl, Australia BALLECER, Nilo R.-Scottsdale, AZ. GRAY, Peter--Cabooltl..re, Australia PEARSE, Richard S.--Urlsing, Ml Sponsor: Timothy CaldNell GUDENKAUF, Galen M.-Nogales, AZ. PLESZCZVNSKl, Mark-C~ Sccttsdale, AZ. Sponsor: Jim Michaels-Ariv~. AZ. Australia BERNARD, Michael G.-Chandler, TX GUDENKAUF, 1irrdhy J.-Nogales, AZ. RANOS, Jose Maruel--Keany, NJ BLUMENFELD, BerrDoraville, GA Sponsor: Jim Michaels-Ariv~ AZ. RITCHIE, W.A.--Jackson, MS BOWMAN, Raymond D.-Butler, PA HABERMAN, Jcci<--Cha'lc:tte, NC SANGER, KatfTen A-Olahe, KS BREAUX, R~Lake Chcrles, LA HANSEN, Bent-Camp Hm, Australia SANTIAGO, Juan A-Lake Worth, FL BRONSTON, Ca-1--Sarta Monica, CA HEAD, lai--Runcorn, Australia Sponsor: Pau c. Finne-Lake BROUGl-ITON, Jeff--Grove City, OH HELWIG, George--Tucson, AZ. Worth, FL Sponsor: Jim Broug,torr-Cok.mbus, HINKSON, Deal-Seattle, WA SCHROEDER, Roger J.--Overla'ld OH IGNATlUS, Walter-Strat'1lirie, Australia Pa-k, KS BROWN, Mel--Blllingon, CT ISHEE, Lamar-Madison, AL SILCOX, Mark--Bundaberg, Australia BYRD, NOOTla'l 0.-Dayton, OH KHANKIN, Leaid--Southfiek:J, Ml SLOPER, David-Dll'cd< Heig,ts, CARNIE, Rot--Kenmore, Australia KING, Timcthy G.--Hamilton, OH Australia COLE, Gerald A--Baltimore, MD KLOSTERMAN, Rob--Greenville, OH SMITH, Roger K, Jr.-Oswego, IL Sponsor: Jeny Kincaid--eatirnore, MD Sponsor: Michael L. Kiser-Greenville, STEFFEY, J. Richa'd--Houston, TX CUNNINGHAM, Gene A-Mavern, AR OH SWEGMAN, Dicne--Greensburg, IN DAVIS, James G.--College Staion, TX LANCASTER, Michael C.-Sunnyvale, THOMPSON, James D., Jr.-Cary, NC DENISON, Morton L.-Aubt.m, AL CA TIMMS, Chris--Ferny Hills, Australia DOVVNS, Ba'ry-Too.voomba, Australia LE, Vinh--Emeryville, CA VALLE, Maicr-Piemort:e, Italy DUGO, Ed-Ne.v Port Richey, FL LERESCU, Nick--Fort Lee, NJ WASHBURN, Winston-Sebring, FL EAGLESTON, Pa.il--Ellen Grove, LEROUX, Roland V.--sterling, IL WEAVER, Edvvard C.--Dayton, OH Australia UST, James 0.-Granville, IA WILD, J.M.--Sheffield, Engla'ld FABER, Bill-Adelaide, S. Australia MacARTHUR, Brad--Larsen, WI WRIGHT, Ken--Bea.idesert, Australia FALLER, Star-Des Moines, IA MAINS, Allan--Cleveland, Australia YOHN, Jere L.--Queenstovm, MD FLEMING, Mattrew-Burbalk, CA MAIR, James R.-Cuyaroga Falls, OH D Precision Automatic Watch Winder Cyclomatlc S Automatic watchwinder for two mechanical watches including calendar and moon phase styles. Can be operated continuously or at intervals of 30 revolutions per hour. Battery powered or can be used on 11 O volt AC. Perfect for small watch repair shops or for the owner of fine wrist watches. Designed for use and storage in a security safe. For further information or our new catalog, Call or write: Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp. 504 Cherry Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001-1696 Tel: (516) 437-8700 Fax: (516) 437-8708 November 1992/Horological Times 23 TechnicallyWATCHESC ©1992 Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI (All rights reserved by the author.) 1992 Antique Watch Restoration © Part LXXXIII MAKING A VERGE ESCAPE WHEEL One of the most common problems escape wheel, making it useless. diameter of the escape wheel. The in the verge escapement is a dam When this problem is encountered, rod is chucked true in the lathe aged escape wheel. The teeth of the there is nothing else to do but to headstock as shown in View A, escape wheel are so delicate that make a new escape wheel. Figure 1. Then a sharp cutter is they easily become damaged. It is used in the slide rest to turn down common to find an escape wheel MAKING THE the diameter of the rod so it is about which has become damaged and ESCAPE WHEEL BLANK .05 mm larger than the diameter of has been repaired by someone. An Figure 1 shows some of the prelimi theescapewheelbeingreproduced. attempt has been made to straighten nary steps in making a verge escape This operation trues up the rod so the bent teeth, file all of the teeth to wheel blank. The blank should be it is round and almost to diameter. the same length, and use a file to made fro~ a piece of hard brass Next, a small sharp cutter is used in repoint the teeth. In most cases, turningrod. Thediameteroftherod the slide rest to bore out the end of this destroys the accuracy of the should be slightly larger than the the rod to form the inside shape of FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2 c 24 Horological Times/November 1992 the blank as shown in View A, dividers are used to divide the circle HOLDING THE BLANK Figure 1. Note: The same cutter scribed previously into three equal FOR MAKING 'nfE SPOKES used to bore out the hole could also parts. Marks are made across the Holding the wheel blank while mak be used to turn down the diameter circle at these points. These points ing the spokes is very difficult since ofthe rod. The hole should be bored will be the center of the end of each the blank is so small. A special slightly deeper than is needed to spoke of the wheel. Next lay off the holding device can be made up for allow for facing the end of the wall width of the end of each spoke by holding verge escape wheel blanks. after the hole has been bored. The making a mark on each side of the This holder is shown in Figure 3. facing off is shown being done in center mark for each spoke. This is The device has a split chuck to fit View B, Figure 1. After the rcx:l has shownat "a", ViewC, Figure2. Now the diameter ofthe wheel blank and been bored and faced, a sharp graver thespokesarescribedoutasshown this chuck is closed with a chuck is used to cut a groove in the rod so in View D, Figure 2. A radius gauge closing ring. View A, Figure 3 shows the blank can be sawed off of the is being used as a pattern and a fine an explcx:led view of the device. One rcx:l with a jewelers saw. This is needle-pointed scriber is being used would make different size chucks shown in View C, Figure 1. Another to scribe spokes. as needed for different diameter methcx:l ofremoving the blank from the rcx:l is to use a cut-off graver .------ instead ofthe saw. The blank should be left slightly too long to allow for facing the bottom of the blank after it is removed from the rcx:l. View A, Figure 2 shows the bottom of the blank being faced flat after the blank has been reversed in the chuck. The blank must be run ning true before the facing is done. CROSSING OUT THE WHEEL BLANK The next operation in making the wheel blank is to cross out the spokes. This type of wheel univer sally has three spokes. The main reasons for crossing out this wheel are to lighten the wheel and to give These are the same high quality Mineral Glass Crystals a better view of the escapement you have come to expect from G-S. action. The first step in crossing Don't buy assortments in makeshift containers. G-S assortments are placed out the wheel blank is to scribe the in durable drawers {at no additional charge) with numbered and spaced outer circle of the spokes. This can index cards. The professional, proven, handiest system for over 70 years. be done by one of two methcx:ls. One All crystals in sets-S1.25 each methcx:l is to use a fine needle scriber over the T-rest while the blank is Buy the Full Range for Super Thin Watches still chucked true after the bottom 240 sizes - 12.0 mm to 36.0 mm in 1Ao mm graduations 1 mm thin (.040") has been faced. This is shown in View B, Figure 2 . This circle should SETMG-18: 8)1( $300 SETMG-5: ~ $75 not be very deep because it must be 20 dozen MG MINERAL GLASS crystals 5 dozen MG MINERAL GLASS crystals removed after the spokes have been 12.0 mm to 36.0 mm (Complete Set) 26.5 mm to 32.5 mm (Starter Set) in FREE in FREE cabinet drawer made. The other methcx:l that can be used to scribe the circle is to spot SET MG-10: ~ $180 SET MG-3: ~ $3750 12 dozen MG MINERAL GLASS crystals 2V2 dozen MG MINERAL GLASS crystals a small center with a sharp graver 12.0 mm to 14.9 mm in FREE drawer after the bottom of the blank has 12.0 mm to 26.4 mm in FREE drawer Compare our new set prices and then been faced. Then use a small pair of SETMG-8: ~ $120 order from your Material Distributor. dividers to scribe the circle. 8 dozen MG MINERAL GLASS crystals You make more profit when you fit 26.5 mm to 36.0 mm in FREE drawer G-S crystals in your store. LAYING OUT AND Germanow-Simon Corporation SCRIBING THE SPOKES Dept. 420, P.O. Box 1091 • Rochester, NY 14603 The next step in making the blank 1-800-252-5335 is to lay out the spokes. This is done <® with a small pair of dividers. The November 1992/Horological Times 25 escape wheel blanks but only one spokes. The wheel holding device is little pressure should be applied on closing ring would be needed. The supported on a drill pad which is the blade and very light uniform diameter of the chucks should be held in the tailstock spindle. The strokes should be taken with the based on a standard size rod so drill is held in a chuck in the lathe saw. One should saw just inside they would be easier to produce. headstock. The holes could also be the scribed lines, always leaving The chuck closing ring should be drilled on a sensitive drill press. In the line just visible. bored to fit the rod from which the this case, the wheel holding device chucks are made. View B, Figure 3 would rest on the drill press table shows an escape wheel blank for the drilling operation. FILING THE SPOKES chucked in the device. This holding After the spokes have been sawed device would safely allow one to SAWING OUT THE SPOKES out, the spokes are filed just to the cross out the wheel after the teeth Figure 5 shows the spokes being scribed line. The wheel blank is have been cut. The teeth would be sawed out. The wheel-holding de held in the wheel-holding device protected by this device during the vice is rested on a sawing board as when the filing is done. The files layout, drilling, sawing, and filing the three sections are sawed out to used for this purpose should be of the spokes. form the spokes. It is recommended Number 6 cut escapement files. that an 8 I 0 saw blade be used for One should file the spoke and the DRILLING THE HOLES this job. The saw blade must be rim of the wheel to match the origi FOR SAWING OUT THE SPOKES kept absolutely vertical during the nal wheel. To obtain a good finish to Figure 4 shows the holes being sawing process especially around the filed surface, a small scraper drilled in the wheel blank for the the scribed circle. This is to avoid can be used to scrape the surfaces saw blade when sawing out the sawing into the wheel's rim. Very smooth. FIGURE 3 FIGURE 4 CHUCK CLOSING RING FIGURE 5 26 Horological Times/November 1992 MAKING THE CUTrER FIGURE 6 FOR THE WHEEL Figure 6 shows the main steps used in making the fly cutter for cutting the teeth of the verge escape wheel. A The diameter of the drill rod for the cutter need not be larger than l /8 inch. One would need an arbor chuck with a slightly off-center cross hole to fit the drill rod. The first step in forming the 8 cutter is to file or grind away about one half of the thickness of the rod at one end of the rod as shown in View A, Figure 6. This flat surface will form the front face of the cutter. Next, one should remove material c from the back side of the cutter as shown in View B, Figure 6. Now the blank is hardened and tempered before the cutter is finally shaped by grinding. D HARDENING AND TEMPERING THE CUTrER BLANK To harden the cutter blank, one should warm the blank in the torch flame before dipping the blank into a container of boric acid powder. This is done to prevent the surface ...------ of the blank from turning black in the hardening process. Next the cutter end of the blank is re-heated in the flame until it turns a medium cheny red. Then, at this point, the blank is quenched, cutter end first, IVE into cold tap water. Note: When this IM is done, the cutter blank is held by Our new case press is the best the end opposite the cutting end inexpensive case closer available! with a pair of soldering tweezers. Features and benefits include : This prevents the body of the cutter • Nylon dies which will not scratch from getting enough heat for it to or mar crystals or bezels. harden when it is quenched. It is • Assortment of dies to allow for better for the body of the cutter to any size watch . be soft so the arbor chuck set screw • Cast metal press to ensure will hold the cutter tightly in the strength. chuck. After the cutter has been heated and quenched, the cutter • Dies snap on and off quickly. end should be checked with a file to • Face-down configuration so re see if it has been sufficiently hard pair person sees the case back. ened. If the file will not bite into the UNDER $50.00 (Please tum to page 30) Call one of these EURO TOOL' distributors for more information. LATHES FOR THE WATCHMAKER Borel & Frei Swes~ Inc. Twin City Supply DRS, Inc. /':, " /'. : ~~CO MAIER l • BLUE'>'RIBGE ~ • SHERLINE Los Angeles, CA Dallas, TX Minneapolis, MN New York, NY 0 / ~wan »112 TOOC..S. tiHC- - • MYFORD ~ - • SOUTH BEND (800) 654-9591 (800) 527-5057 (800) 328-6009 (800) 223-8960 (304) 562-3538 ---' • ~~~=~::TEA CATALOG $1.00 • AnAS (ACC.) P.O. Box 536-HT • Hurricane WV • 25526 November 1992/Horological Times 27 OTTO FREI & JULES BOREL 119 3rd STREET OAKLAND, CA 94607 serving Northern California since 1930 salutes the Horological Times & the proud Horological tradition with SPRING BARS SPECTACULAR the 2 most extensive spring bar assortments ever offered Assortment# SB-2A Assortment# SB-lA Stainless Steel Non-Stainless Steel 111 Sizes 114 Sizes The stainless steel assortment contains: 11 sizes The non-stainless steel assortment contains: 5 sizes double shoulder, 7 sizes double flange 1.8mm telescopic, 11 sizes double shoulder 1.8mm diameter, diameter, 7 sizes thin double flange 1.5mm diameter, 11 sizes thin double shoulder 1.5mm diameter, 15 5 sizes thin curved 1.51'1'\m diameter, 11 sizes sizes double flange, 11 sizes female, 1O sizes thin extra-thin double flange 1.3mm diameter, 38 sizes curved 1.5mm diameter, 37 sizes special single special single shoulder short pivots Seiko type by shoulder short pivots Seiko type by 0.5mm incre 0.5mm increments in length extra-thin 1.3mm ments in length extra-thin 1.3mm diameter, 13 sizes diameter, 14 sizes non-stainless 1.2mm single single shoulder thin 1.5mm diameter. Total of 114 shoulder, 15 sizes for clasps, & 2 genuine Seiko sizes, 1400 pieces. Divers sizes. Total of 111 sizes, 846 pieces. PRICE:$ 165.00 PRICE: $105.00 The professional choice - Assortment # SB-2A gives you Seiko style spring bars at a fraction of the cost. OTTO FREI & JULES BOREL ORDERS 1(800) 772-3456 28 Horological Times/November 1992 OTTO FREI & JULES BOREL Home of the John Frei Custom Workbench & the finest in watch, jewelry tools & supplies available. Call today for our exclusive Tools, Findings, and Jewelry Supplies Catalogs. WATCH BATTERIES COTTON FILLED BOXES ~~ FORLESS ~ 8- Page Battery Brochure Eveready, Maxell, Rayovac, Renata, Sony, Varta, Panasonic brands. Lithium Cells, Tearstrips, 6-paks, Clock, Hearing Aid & other size GOLD FOIL WHITE SWIRL miscellaneous batteries. # 11 1 3/4 x 1 1/8 x 5/8 $15.00 $15.00 # 21 2 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 7/8 $16.00 $16.00 Cells for less GUARANTEED #31 31/16x21/8x5/8 $16.00 $16.00 #32 31/16x21/8x1 $17.00 $17.00 1 (800) 772-3456 for Battery Pricelist # 33 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 1 $22.00 $20.00 # 82a 8 x 2 x 7/8 $25.97 $24.95 Watch Parts STYLE CRAFT Crystals quality leather watch straps Crystal Fitting from Canada over 2500 different straps in sizes, lengths, & colors Unimat Lathes available with Bergeon Tools TRIPLE KEYSTONE PRICING We also stock the complete lines of Kreisler, Quartz Clock Movements Mormac, Kestenmade, & genuine Casio Clock Parts - Mainsprings replacement straps. ORDER BY FAX (510) 834-6217 CONFIRMED WITH RETURN FAX OTIO JULESiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii ••t Jrd ST Orders ONLY 1(800) 772-3456 OAKLAND, CA Technical Hotline (510) 832-0355 FREI&BOREL 94607 Inquiries (510) 832-8149 QUALITY JEWELRY SUPPLIES FOR GENERATIONS or Bob Frei (510) 832-8148 November 1992/Horological Times 29 TECHNICALLY WATCHES The cutter blank is now to a light straw color. This is done (Continued from page 27) chucked up in the lathe and its on sand which is used in a metal surfaces cleaned off with emery tray or pan. The pan is heated over surface of the cutter, it has been paper to prepare it for tempering. an alcohol lamp or burner. As soon hardened. Next the cutter blank is tempered as the cutter has reached the de sired color, it is removed from the FIGURE 7 sand and placed on a piece of glass or sheet metal to let it cool slowly. Now the shape of the cutter is completed by grinding on an emery wheel. A good grinding wheel for this purpose is a fine India wheel. The cutter blank can be held in a square chuck-holding device and used on top of a saw table. The cutter is shaped to fit the space between two good teeth of the old escape wheel and, at the same time, the relief is ground on the cutter. This relief is shown in ViewC, Figure6. The cutting face of the cutter is shown in this view. The dotted lines show the undercut which gives relief to the face of the cutter. The back side of the cutter is shown in View D, Figure 6. The bevel around the edge of the cutter which gives relief to the cutting edge is shown in this view. The cutter is sharpened by grinding the front face of the cutter. SETIING UP THE GEAR CUTIING EQUIPMENT When cutting a verge escape wheel, FIGURE 8 one would need, in addition to the lathe, a slide rest and a gear cutting attachment to mount on top of the slide rest. One would also need an idler stand with pulleys to guide the belt to the gear cutting attach ment. The slide rest should be placed on the lathe bed from the back side of the bed as shown in Figure 7. The gear cutting attach ment should be fastened squarely and securely on the slide rest. The gear cutting attachment spindle should be set in a horizontal posi tion as shown in Figure 7. The cutter arbor chuck is placed in the spindle of the gear cutting attach ment. Then the cutter is fastened in the cutter arbor chuck. The front face of the cutter must be in line with the length of the arbor chuck. Now the top part of the slide rest is swiveled clockwise 30 degrees and locked in this position. This should 30 Horological Times/November 1992 cause the spindle of the gear cut wheel. The cutter should be low the edge of the slide as shown in ting attachment to have the same ered into the blank just far enough View D, Figure 7, this can be used angular relationship to the lathe to make the tips of the teeth come to indicate the distance that the spindle as is shown in Figure 8. out parallel as shown in View B, cutter is lowered into the wheel This is when they are viewed from Figure 10. Note: The width of the blank. the top of the lathe. Next a sharp tooth tips should be more narrow When cutting the teeth on center chuck is placed in the lathe than is shown. The tips of the teeth the escape wheel blank, it is a mat spindle and, at the same time, the should be .10 mm to .15 mm wide. ter of engaging the index latch into proper index plate is placed on the One needs a stop on the vertical the index plate, then lowering the lathe spindle. Then thecenterchuck slide ofthe gear cutting attachment cutter the proper amount into the is tightened in the lathe spindle. so the cutter will be lowered into blank, and then raising the cutter The tip of the cutter is centered with the blank the correct amount and clear of the blank. Then index for the point of the center chuck. This the same amount each time a tooth the next tooth. This is repeated is done by turning the crank (A) on is cut. If the gear cutting attach until all of the teeth are cut. the bottom slides. After the cutter is ment has a metric or inch scale on (Please turn to page 33) centered, one should not touch this crank. The crank shown at B which operates the top slides is used to set the depth of the cutter for length of tooth, and the crank shown at C on the gear cutting attachment is used each time a tooth is cut. The cutter is moved up and down when a tooth is cut. Now the center chuck is removed from the lathe spindle and the chuck holding the wheel blank ~GOB@ is placed in the lathe spindle and "TR\PLE-OUTY" tightened. Make sure that the wheel REPAlR ENVELOPES blank runs true in the round and EV-110 fiat. Box of 1000 SE'ITING THE CU'ITER Reg. $41.50 AND CU'ITING THE TEETH The cutter is set as shown in Figure 8 but not quite so deep into the blank to start with, then it is fed into the blank gradually to obtain the proper length tooth with the proper width tip t6 the tooth. Note: One should start out with a practice wheel blank to first set the cutter, then the practice blank is replaced with the real blank and the teeth are cut. One can use a rod that has had a blank turned on its end for practice in setting the cutter. Figures 9 and 10 show the cutter being used to cut the teeth on the verge escape wheel. View A, Figure 9 shows the cutter being fed through the wall of the blank. The cutter must never be fed completely through the wall as shown because, when this is done, the tips of the escape wheel teeth will come out DISCOUNTERS OF TOOLS & SUPPLIES with a triangular shape. This is for the Jeweler & Watchmaker FREE! 56 West 47th Street, New York, NY 10036 Ask for Our New shown at B, Figure 9. Inc. 212-819-0470 • FAX:212-354-2270 Findings, Tool Toll Free: 800-223-8960 • FAX: 800·526-8682 and Dasen Figure 10, ViewAshowsthe JEWELER'S Ring Catalog correct way to cut a verge escape DEPARTMENT STORE WE ACCEPT MASTERCARD AND VISA November 1992/Horological Times 31 SEEKING PROSPECTIVE CANDIDATES FOR THE AWi BOARD OF DIRECTORS The committee involved with securing candidates to run for the AWI Board of Directors is seeking recommendations from the membership. If you plan to suggest a possible candidate, please send that individual's name and background to: Mr. Robert F. Bishop, Chairman; Nominations for Board of Directors Committee; AWi Central; 3700 Harrison Avenue; Cincinnati, OH 45211. Each recommendation will be carefully considered by the committee. Candidates will be selected on the basis of their past local association or AWI experience, geographical location, present job status, horological experience, and willingness to serve. Mr. Bishop must receive all recommendations before December 31, 1992 to be considered for the 1993 election. WE'RE INTERESTED IN YOUR COLOR SLIDES The American Watchmakers Institute knows thatthere is a wealth of talent in its membership and that this talent is not only in the field of horology. There is seldom a gathering of a group of watchmakers and clockmakers where a camera Is not also there. Those of you who pride yourself in the beauty of your camera work can possibly participate in having your own picture reproduced on the cover of Horological Times. The covers of Horotogtcat Times are reproduced from color transparencies or slides. Remember, the format is scenery or nature and what you submit must be a color slide. Color photos are not acceptable. If your color slide is used, you will receive on 8-1 /2 x 11 inch color photo. It will be framed and sent to you for your enjoyment. Mail your color slide with description to: Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Dept. 31, Cincinnati, OH 45211. All slides become the property of the American Watchmakers Institute. 32 Horological Times/November 1992 TECHNICALLY WATCHES FIGURE 9 FIGURE 10 (Continued from page 31) MOUNTING THE VERGE ESCAPE WHEEL The seat on the pinion that the new escape wheel will be mounted on should be checked and re-cut if necessaiy. The rivet should be un dercut so it is sharp. Then the new wheel is chucked true in the lathe with the teeth inside the chuck. Next the hole is drilled in the escape wheel. After this the hole is opened with a small boring tool so the pinion will just start into the hole. Then a staking tool is used to press the pinion into the wheel. After this the rivet is staked down onto the surface of the escape wheel. The wheel must run absolutely true on its pinion. After being staked, if the wheel should be slightly out of true in the flat, one would re-stake the rivet on the high side to bring the wheel true on the pinion. "Antique Watch Restora tion" will continue next month. 0 ACCEPT SMEA NO SUBSTITUTE The Experts on Crystal Cutting We cut and fit flat mineral glass crystals for QUALITY ROUND MINERAL CRYSTAL WITH POLISHED EDGE all watches, including brand name: MADE TO FIT THE NEW LINE OF QUARTZ WATCHES. For Only $5 0.8 mm THICKNESS FOR LDs and 1 mm GTs. 24-hour delivery We carry different thicknesses from 0.7mm to 2.0mm to assure an accurate replace ment of the original. Try us with one free crystal cutting for new A NAME YOU CAN TRUST customers and let our 15-year experi AND A QUALITY enced cutter show you the difference!!! YOU CAN COUNT ON. Note: $2.00 addltlonal charge for crystal w/gasket $2.00 addltlonal charge to remove movement CALL Ship to: SMEA 1-800-536-7632 5962 Broadway Blvd. FOR YOUR Garland, Texas 75043 NEAREST DEALER 1-800-536-7632 November 1992/Horological Times 33 CLOCKS ht~ide s Out! John Plewes, CMC A Gallery Eureka Eureka movements mostly seem to inhabit glass were applied. Enough of the name and place lettering domes or glass-sided cases, but they are also to be remained for deciphering, but the patent numbers found in wooden mantel cases where the intriguing, were largely gone and had to be copied from the big balance wheel movement cannot be seen or movement where, fortunately, they also appeared. appreciated. I cannot say I had even heard of a gallery The glass was held in place, well, partially, by version until the one shown in Figure l came into my the customary plaster of Paris method. I consider this possession some time ago. The case is 19-1 I 2 inches idea to be mechanically unsound; it also promotes across, and the minute ring is 12-3/ 4 inches in verdigris because the plaster has to be applied wet. diameter; as it is also 6 inches deep, it is a relatively Accordingly, I replaced the glass using eight soldered large example of a Eureka. Despite its solid ma brass clips. The bezel and its glass-retaining ring had hogany case, the action is visible through the dial's both attained the soft patina of a piece of coal; they large central aperture. were also the same color as coal. So both of them had When first obtained, the dial looked like the to be stripped down to brass with emery and Scotch side of an old tramp steamer, beingjust a mass of rust Brite™, etc. before being polished and lacquered in with a few sparse pockets of paint here and there to keeping with the new dial job. The case was grimey show it had once been a clock dial. There were just but sound and responded well to methyl alcohol and enough of these paint fragments to enable me to piece lemon oil. together a formula for repainting the dial after strip All Eurekas were originally powered by a ping it down to reasonably sound steel. The resultant battery, usually a fairly large l.5v cell, a separate slightly pitted surface of the 1/16" thick steel was compartment being desirable to avoid possible corro then rust-neutralized before undercoat and primer sion. A small door in the side provides access to the gallery, Eureka's compartment, which is long and FIGURE 1 narrow as it runs under the movement. As the original l .Sv cells are virtually unobtainable, and I am not too fond of batteries anyway, I made a small power supply to power the clock from the usual 11 Sv FIGURE2 34 Horological Times/November 1992 FIGURE3 EUREKA POWER SUPPLY 8 V.IJ.C.. 7·fl Y.D.C.. /N7'-00I 3-.3.fl /kl" A K.3. /·8 V..D.C. /24 + c/ + C"2 v 7·/D V.d.C. '27-'2 o,c:-~ LO/"O c;o rv TO (6·3 NOM) /000 3300 /W. ~/ 11/ < /·Sv..o.c. /5 V.D.c. IS v.:o.c. t?# L0/7.D 0 Voltages as Measured. 1i is a standard 115v transformer with a secondary voltage of 6.3@ 1.0 amps. Diode D 1 has many substitutes. AC. This is shown in Figure 2; its schematic is shown R1, R2 , Rs can be changed slightly to suit the lower in Figure 3. main's voltages, but the movement is fairly tolerant The resistors used in the power supply are of ofinputvoltage. Variationsininputvoltagewilla:ffect ample wattage and so do not heat up appreciably. All the swing, however, and so the timekeeping. A few components are available at surplus stores or elec neat, accurately placed 1 /2-inchholes unobtrusively tronic supply houses, should sources such as the drilled in the bottom, side, and door of the compart junk pile fail to deliver. The off-load voltage of 1. 8 may ment allow some air circulation and so prevent any appear slightly high, but the Eureka's pulse soon small heat build-up in the case. This is not a problem, pulls that down as it drains C2. The three resistors as very little wattage is dissipated. Eurekas, in other Precision E&L Crystal Cutting Co. IMPORT, INC. ''For All Your Watch Crystal Needs" SOK Sternkreu.z SAME DAY MINERAL GLASS CRYSTALS - MST 13.0 - 36.0 mm/thickness 0.80 mm SERVICE NOW $1.50 each per dozen ONLY!!! $1.30 each per gross SATISFACTION GUARANTEED ON ALL WORK Suppliers of Expert Crystal Cutter All Major Crystals With 10 Years Experience ROB DR LOWEST PLASTIC Prices in the Country FINE QUALITY CRYSTALS MADE IN FRANCE $1.25 each per dozen SHIP TO: Reference & $1.00 each per gross Precision Crystal Cutting Price List 23940 Eureka On Request HIGH DOME TENSION RING STEP Taylor, MI 48180 LOW DOME WATERPROOF ROUND FLAT SEIKO & CITIZEN CRYSTALS QUARTZ MOVEMENTS--MIN. 50 PCS. (313) 287-3480 (313) 353-4848 FAX (313) 287-9210 (24 hrs.) Fax: (313) 358-1168 Southfield MI November 1992/Horological Times 35 cases, could use the same power supply circuit but FIGURES with a different physical layout to fit the space available. .f/1. VER FL./9t; SILVE,f FLl"lCi The movement was in the same condition as ..OEPTH TH/CKNJ:"SS. the dial--rough. It was necessary to take every last piece apart, including the balance wheel to renew what was worn out. Because the clock had not been run on the level, one of the balance wheel pivots had slowly worn a hole in the steel end plate, wearing a T sharp little spike on itself in the process. As both pivots also showed considerable wear where they contacted the two steel balls upon which they rest, T they were both replaced as were the end plates. The original end plates were some 0. 011 inch thick and as all I had on hand in hard steel shimstock was some 0.020 inch thick, I used that thickness to make new 1 f-s--- O·ISo .RPX. ---<•>-II ones ofidentical shape. As hardened steel shimstock o,e cannot be filed or drilled, the periphery of the discs was ground to shape, the two "eyeholes" being ground out using a small stone in a Dremel grinder. MAKE 1 OF NYLON. ALL DIMENSIONS IN INCHES. The hardened steel rings on which the balls run were rotated to avoid slightly worn areas. No real oil seal is present in the Eureka's bearing boxes. to adjust, so a reliable action can be obtained. There is a thin washer of insulating material around The Eureka contact system was devised at a the edge of the two glass discs through which the two time when insulating materials were much less de balls are seen, but this is really a glass-to-metal veloped than they are today, hence the original, pressure-avoidance device. complicated silver-insulation brass-insulation The actuating linkage had to be adjusted so makeup of the original design. The March 1983 that the gathering pallet could shovel only one tooth Horological Times shows a copy of this design, appar of the ratchet gear at a time. The linkage itself can be ently made about 1955-1960 by Mr. R.H. Miles of bent slightly and there is also a couple of pins Saffron Walden, Essex, U.K., who reported that he obtained a successful run of six years with it. Today, in 1992, thereisabsolutelynoneedfor FIGURE4 a second metal component in the moving contact. There are at least two good methods of avoiding it, both of them employing nylon. In the first method, the nylon sleeve which insulates the silver wire in its mounting on the balance wheel is extended parially to cover about a third of the wire's active end, as shown in Figure 4. The second method is superior and even simpler. The nylon insulating sleeve is cut off fully at point A in Figure 4, leaving it bare all S/.t:.V£R around. A small piece of flat nylon is then epoxied to the back of the flag on the fixed contact as shown in Figures 5, 6, and 7. Figure 5 shows the nylon /vYLO/.I insulating pad. Figure 6 shows the contacts as seen from the nine o'clock side of the movement. Figure 7 shows the pad epoxy-bonded to the A_ back of the silver flag on the fixed contact. It must extend below the flag or the moving contact will miss the fixed contact altogether (Figure 6). The moving silver wire hits the nylon at B (rear of Figure 7); it then slides up it to contact the flush silver flag and so energizes the coil. On the return swing, it touches the nylon briefly, causing only a small displaGement before passing underneath it to repeat the process. This second method is by far the simplest contact system for getting a Eureka percolating again. It maximizes the dwell-time of the contacts, which, like the voltage, has a marked influence on the 36 Horological Times/November 1992 FIGURES FIGURE7 .SIL.VE!? FL.At; FIXED CONTACT 0 0 N Yl...ON' 0 0 !------.SLEL"'VE ...______, - - - - - ~.1-~ _, ,__'-~ ~ NYL O N SIL './l!R WIRE /Y10V1Nt; CO,Nll'lCT __,....4 swing of the balance wheel. The Eureka undoubtedly has its troubles, Using the power supply of Figure 2, the swing but it is an interesting movement just the same. Had settled down at about 330° or so. Initially, regulation its makers been able to solve the contact problems was outside the range of the hairspring adjuster, so which plagued all battery-electric clocks of the pe it was necessary to utilize the 10 large-headed screws riod, the carefully crafted Eureka might have achieved in the rim of the balance wheel to bring the clock to a reputation more commensurate with its good work time. This has to be done carefully so that the wheel manship. Even though it is undoubtedly well made, remains balanced, or poised as the watch people call I am still somewhat thoughtful about its design. it. The clock would work unbalanced, but greater In general, I prefer to avoid silver contacts in wear would be a likely result. The whole 10 screws battery type electric clocks. Those in the Synchronome, should therefore be adjusted at once, and by the which is not much younger than the Eureka, are easy same amount, say 1I3 of a turn outwards to slow the to replace with trouble-free tungsten auto ignition clock. Setting the wheel on two true, level and parallel contacts (points). Similar replacements in the Eu edges, e.g. machinist's blocks, and adjusting oppo reka would be difficult to fit because of their shape site screws until the wheel no longer moves is a good and the difficulty of dealing with tungsten and at way to proceed. The screw-adjusting and balancing taching it to more amenable metals. It's worth a act should be done with the hairspring adjuster set thought, however, even though the purists, like midway so that when it is used for the final small those who seek out cotton-wrapped copper wire, adjustment, it remains close to its central position. would be horrified. Come to think of it, did I hear There does not seem to be any common 'nylon, indeed'? D agreement on the timekeeping ability of the Eureka clock; some say that it is excellent, whilst others hold it to be horrible. Oddly enough both may be correct but under different conditions. Short ter.m, it appears to be quite good; long term, I haye doubts due to YOU'LL CHEER! changes in oil viscosity. Where applicable, battery voltage is also a factor, as are variations in contact WHEN YOU DISCOVER resistance. OUR FAST EFFICIENT SERVICE When, after several screw-adjusting and bal FOR ALL OF YOUR WATCH PART AND TOOL NEEDS! ancing sessions, I finally brought the Eureka to time, it kept that time within one minute for some eight weeks, which I consider to be quite good. After DAVIS SUPPLY another month or so a loss.oftwo minutes was noted 333 WEST CHURCH AVE., S. W. and adjusted out. Oil thickening may be a factor, or P.O. BOX 1140 ROANOKE, VA 24006 perhaps the hairspring was just settling down. I used (703) 345 8040 3-in-l Oil in the end boxes as this oil is less viscous ORDER: (800) 533-6293 IN VA: (800) 533-1523 than clock oil and so may prove to be less tacky over FAX: (703) 344-5153 the long haul. November 1992/Horological Times 37 AS A CLOCKMAKER TURNS BY J.M. HUCKABEE, CMC, FBHI THREADING AND SCREW MAKING SCREW THREAD PROBLEMS around 0.122 inch across the thread crest. When One of the most difficult problems of our trade is making screws we will need to size our screw blank dealing with fasteners. Many of the jobs are of the era 2-3 percent smaller than the theoretical diameter. before standardization of screw threads, and this is Thread cutting dies are in two general forms: further compounded by different measurement sys the solid type and the adjustable form. For our tems in use. Most new clock construction uses the purpose, either type may be used. Preferred Systems of English or Metric threads. Let's discuss the machine screw system used DIE EXAMPLES in our nation. Sizes used in mid-range clocks can Figure 1 shows a group of tools for making external usually be satisfied by screw sizes of# 1 through #8. type machine screw threads. What do these numbers mean? A screw designated as The dies shown are of the adjustable type, 5-40 means that the screw size is #5 and it has 40 with a jack-screw bridge in the body gap. It is threads per linear inch. A #4-40 is a smaller size, #4, imperative that these dies be held tightly in a strong with 40 threads per inch. Screws are further defined die-stock to prevent breakage. They are likely to by length, head type, material, and thread shape, as thread oversize if not very tight in their stock. A well as other factors. thread pitch gauge is shown in the central area of What is the basis of the size number? Theo Figure 1. This has the thread form of all common retical diameter is 13 times the number plus 60, pitches from 4-84. The pitch gauge is used as a trial stated in thousandths of an inch. Let's try the screw fit to identify an unknown screw pitch. #5-40. This is 5 x 13 added to 60, a total of 125 In Figure 2 we have a ring-type die holder. thousandths of an inch. Expressed in decimal form This one is made of aluminum, and finger-held for it is 0.125 inch; in fractional form it is 1 /8 inch. The most small threads. The die shown is size 1-72. Other class of screws used in clocks are reduced about 2 markings are the maker's trademark and country of percent in diameter to facilitate manufacture and origin and the letters NF meaning National Fine assembly. Therefore, a 5-40 screw will measure Thread Series Standard. Again, 1-72 is 1 x 13 added Figure 1. Threading tools: dies and stock and thread pitch Figure 2. A handy form of die holder. gauge. 38 Horological Times/November 1992 YOU HAVE TRIED THEM ALL . .. NOW TRY PLYMOUTH WE ARE A FULL SERVICE MATERIAL SUPPLIER. WE SPECIALIZE IN RQLEX PARTS, MATERIALS FOR QUARlZ WATCHES AND HARD-TO-FIND MATERIALS FOR AMERICAN BRACELET & POCKET WATCHES, CLOCK MATERIALS, & TOOLS. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••SEND FOR A FREE SET OF CIRCULARS • PLYMOUTH WATCH MATERIAL CO., INC. 87 Nassau St., Room 909 New York, NY 10038 Tele hone (212) 267-4441 Figure 3. Turning the form of a small thumbscrew. to 60. Therefore, the screw diameter will be 0.073 700 inch, with a thread rate of 72 threads per linear inch. State Street MAKING THE SCREW First, cut the screw tang. In this example the raw _===wM_@iJ2iij£ material is 1 / 8 inch brass rod which we will cut to Quincy tang size and length, let's say 1 /2 inch long. Figure IL 3 shows how this looks; however, keep the work deep Gem City College in the chuck with the very minimum of overhang. 62301 This piece was moved outward to improve the photo Where Time Can Equal Money graphic view. • Watchmaking • Jewelry (217) The tang should be cylindrical in form and •Engraving • Jewelry Store 222- around 0.071 inch in diameter. Remember, we re • Clock Repair Management 0391 duce about 2-3 percent from the theoretical value. It is prudent to make the tang about a diameter longer, and taper that region to facilitate starting the thread ing die; that tip is machined away later. Cut the underhead area to a suitable shape, possibly with a KEY TEST shoulder. FOR Next, bring the overhead area approximately to shape and leave the head rim at a crest of about 60 QUARTZ WATCHES degrees. This crest will be knurled later. You may cut the threads either before or after the knurl operation. The "KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES" A suitable knurl may be made with a mill file by Ewell Hartman, CMW is a quick and simple somewhat as illustrated in Figure 4. Grip the file and method of locating the problem in a quartz analog movement. The only tool required is a meter. Material and instructions for learning this test is supplied by the AWl-E LM Trust as part of their educational work. There is no charge to any group wishing to learn this test. There are great benefits to learning this in a group setting. However, for individuals who may not be able to participate in a group, it is available to them also. For more information call or write to the AWi office for an information sheet and application form. Figure 4. Forming the knurl on a screw head. November 1992/Horological Times 39 Figure 5. Cutting the screw threads. Figure 6. A modified hobby knife is used to cut a screwfrom its parent stock. the screw head rim between a thumb and forefinger and cut the screw almost off; leave just a trace of very tightly. Turn the lathe spindle by the drawbar material so the parent rod remains as a handle. knob one complete turn. Do not let the file slip, as it Inspect the cut-off region in Figure 6. We will break would cut away material from the head. A clean, away our handle at an appropriate time. sharp file will produce a very nice-looking job. When we break our screw from its handle, it You may desire a wider head on larger screws; may leave a burr in the central head area. We can see If so, cut a pair (or more), crest, and use the same this in Figure 7. This must be machined away. procedure. If three or more crests are to be knurled, In a previous article I mentioned a soft sub I remove the piece, place it on a hardwood block, and collet. Figure 8 illustrates that idea in use. A wood press the file and roll the material. That technique dowel is lightly set in a lathe chuck, drilled on center permits greater pressure to be applied. to the screw tang size, and is used for head finishing. Threading is shown in Figure 5. I prefer to Just pull the collet a little tighter and it will hold the hold the die and rotate the lathe spindle by hand. The threads with no danger of damage. tapered tang end helps to guide the die onto the Screws with a head cross-slot are made in a material. similar manner. The big problem is making a nice The order of events are not absolute. I prefer looking slot. It is best to make the head about twice to cut the tang, form the threads, cut the overhead normal depth, and likewise the slot. The head should area, knurl, and cut away the handle. also be larger than desired. Cut the slot and then machine away the excess area with a very sharp tool. CUT-OFF AND FINISHING This will greatly improve head appearance. Do not cut away the screw until all other require Next time we will continue with more hands ments have been accomplished. The cut-off tool is a on practical lathe work as needed in the clock repair hobby knife ground as a parting tool. Lube the tool tip trade. D Figure 7. A burr remains on the screw head. Figure 8. Screw is held in a soft sub-collet to finish its head. 40 Horological Times/November 1992 Dickls:: Barrel Marshall F. Richmond, CMW JEWELRY CRAFTING AND REPAIR Diamond and Stone Setting PartV Bezel settings are no doubt the most secure and protective stone. These can be handled the same as the tapered tube bezel. settings for any stone, but they are far from being the most When the stone is set to the proper depth to allow the edge to be practical for some stones. Diamond settings are usually consid bent over the girdle of the stone by burnishing, it can be done with ered to be open prong settings for obtaining the most brilliance a hand burnishing tool. These tools are listed in the jewelers from the diamonds. Bead type or plate settings are used for more supply catalogs and come in various shapes, but are made of very security, but with a slight loss of brilliance. Some round dia hard and highly polished steel. monds are set in bezel settings, usually in men's rings that are to The principle of burnishing is to rub the highly polished be worn under rough wear conditions (though some brilliance of surface over the metal while exerting hand pressure, forcing the the diamond is sacrificed). metal over the edge of the stone. Burnishing with the highly As most of us are jewelry craftsmen, much of our stone polished surface of the burnishing tool leaves a highly polished setting is done in handcrafted jewelry or the repair of manufac finish on the surface that has been burnished. You can make your tured worn jewelry. This often requires the installation of own burnishing tools by shaping them from high carbon steel manufactured bezels and/or making bezels to fit given stones, (water hardening tool steel) by filing to shape, then polishing to installing them, and then setting the stone. I will discuss bezels, a mirror finish. If you heat it to a cherry red and quench in water, their construction, how to make them, how to install them, it will be flint hard; to get the correct hardness, the tern per should setting the stones, and the availability of manufactured bezels be drawn to a light straw color and again polished, and it is then and the sizes and shapes available (see Figures lA through lG). ready to use. After hardening, it can be polished with 4/0 emery Manufactured bezels are available from jewelry ma abrasive paper. terial suppliers, and are shown in Figure 1. A through G show Oval, round, and antique oval bezels can generally be angle views of the different shaped bezels, and Cl through G 1 handled in the same manner for setting stones. If these are show top views. H and I show bezel wire that is available in manufactured bezels, and if the stone to be set is a standard size shallow setting and deep setting. The shallow bezel is used for and shape, it should fit the bezel of that size and shape. thin girdle stones, and the deep for thick girdle stones. The Occasionally, we do find cut stones that vary a little in size and thickness of the wall ofa bezel to bend over the edge of the stone shape (especially girdle thickness), so some trial and error must can vary from .3 to .5 mm, depending on the size or shape of the be put into practice before starting to burnish the bezel over the stone. stone. Ingenuity is also called for in many cases, for with "almost Tube settings (Figures lA and B) show tube settings, fits" sometimes a little metal can be removed inside the bezel, or which in reality are bezels. A is a tapered tube that can have a seat sometimes a stone can be reduced a little in size to make a proper cut with a setting bur to fit the stone. These are available in sizes fit. When the stone is seated properly and the bezel protrudes for diamonds from .01 to .50 carat (single point to half carat) and above the girdle of the stone to burnish over the edge for a secure the wall is thick enough to accommodate the different size stones fit, then the edge can be burnished over and tight, making a in the range of sizes it is listed for. For example, the bezel listed finished job that will only need polishing. With round, oval, or to accommodate .10 to .15 using a setting bur the diameterof the antique oval bezels, the metal can be burnished down over the .15 would leave the outside wall to be burnished over the stone curve (unlike square, rectangular, or octagon [emerald cut] thicker than if the seat is cut for a .10. If the wall is too thick to bezels that have sharp comers). burnish easily, it can be thinned by removing some of the metal Bezels for rectangular and emerald cut stones are from the outside of the wall by filing. Figure 1B shows a straight available from most findings suppliers (Figure 2). Marquise and tube with a seat already cut which has been done with a setting pear-shaped stones are rarely bezel set, but there are some to be bur and leaves the seat tapered to fit the taper of the bottom of the found. When these bezels need replacing, they will probably November 1992/Horological Times 41 to allow the metal in the comer to fit tight against the stone (yet leave no visible crack in the comers). If a little crack shows, gold '.~ t~ ·~ (~. .1 can be stretched by continued burnishing to close the crack. The 0 ~ finished job should be ready to polish. When polished, the comers or edges should not be sharp enough to catch on clothing or other objects. In setting pear-shaped stones with a full bezel, ~ @ @)! ·,~1) §] the point may have to be cut to the edge of the girdle (as in square ~ e or rectangular corners) but the angle is so small that it can be burnished with no filing, and any excess metal can be removed after the burnishing is finished. Tue round end of the pear will burnish over the edge of the stone as the metal will compress with the burnishing. Marquise-cut stones can be treated the same as pear-shaped ones, except both ends, being pointed, will be treated the same as the pointed end of the pear stone. Making and installing bezels is something all-around Figure 1 complete jewelry craftsmen must know. This takes study, calcu lating, a lot of ingenuity, and a lot of practice. With experience, this skill will gradually come easier until it becomes routine. STANDARD SIZES However, it has been my experience that no jewelry job is ever m/Ai. l!MEllALO PEAR MAROUISf: RfCTA.NGllt.lfl really routine because every job is different, thus presenting a challenge. Q L Making bezels can be done by using manufactured 10&8 ••• \lbll 012&1 bezel wire (Figures lH and 11), or by using stock gold, either 0 Q 1 sheet or wire. When replacing bezels, the first step is to prepare ..1 L.. , l.S 0 the ring or piece of jewelry for installation by filing off the old 0 Q 10115 D bezel until the surface is flat. If the opening is smaller than the ... Td ••• D D stone and it cannot fall through, then a bezel with a seat is not 1l$ 1140 7a$ necessary, and a flat strip of metal can be used. However, if a ,- Q6x4 LJ D manufactured bezel is to be used, it has a seat for the stone, and 6&4 Q 0 9it& (1 6x3 '-·-.) 5'13 the thickness of.the wall is correct for the size stone the bezel is 5•3 Sx3 5•3 made for. Most manufactured bezels have a given depth so the Figure 2. Standard stone sizes. depth may need to be reduced by filing the top to the correct depth. This is easier to do after the bezel is installed on the ring or piece of jewelry and completely hard-soldered in. With the setting or top filed flat, the bezel can be set in place and checked have to be made from bezel wire. Setting rectangular or square for a fit. It should be centered and squared with the place where stones must be done by first trying them in the bezel. If the bezel the old bezel was removed. If it is ready, the metal should be has not yet been installed, it is easy to see if the stone is a tight heated, fluxed, and heated again until the flux leaves a white fit, a loose fit, a good fit, or too loose or too tight to make a frosted coating. satisfactory job. If no manufactured bezel is adequate, then the At this point, the bezel can be set in place, and if bezel can be made from bezel wire (see Figures lH and 11). Ifthe necessary, fastened with binding wire. I usually have the ring or bezel is installed and the stone is a little tight, the edges can be piece ofjewelry grasped with locking tweezers and placed on the ground slightly with a diamond lap to slightly reduce the size of asbestos pad on the bench (which is weighted with the steel block the stone. When using hand gravers or rotary burs, sometimes a anvil, making sure the place for the bezel is level). Heat is then small amount of metal can be removed from inside the installed applied enough for the flux to stick the bezel in place. bezel to allow the stone to fit. If it is slightly loose, usually the Next, a small piece of solder of the correct color and bezel can be burnished down, which will tighten the stone to karat is placed either on one end or one side in the corner on the make a satisfactory finish. outside of the bezel. Heat is again applied until the solder flows Common sense and ingenuity play an important part in in the one spot securing the bezel to its base. Check for perfect handcraftingorrepairingjewelry--especiallywhensettingstones. alignment. Ifnot perfectly aligned, heat the bezel until the solder Stones being set in bezels that have sharp corners must receive flows, and move it slightly with a jewelers solder pick, or remove special treatment in burnishing down the comers. This is it to realign and re-spot with the solder already there. When this because these corners will not com press, as will the bezels on alignment is correct, small chips of solder can be placed all gradual curves such as round or oval. Thus, it is necessary to file around either the outside or inside of the bezel. If on the outside, a "V" in the comers. then the heat can be applied to the inside of the bezel, and when I usually first saw a line in the comer to the top of the the solder flows the heat will pull it through to the inside. girdle, then use a triangular file to make the "V." As the edges Tue reverse works, too: If the solder is placed inside the of the bezel are burnished over the edge of the stone, the "V" will bezel, the heat should be applied to the outside, and when the close up. If it comes together too tight before the bezel is tight on solder flows it can be drawn to the outside. the edge of the stone, the "V" may have to be filed some more to At this point, the whole piece of jewelry around the 42 Horological Times/November 1992 bezel should be i:ed, and any points that the solder has not flowed to can be refluxed, more solder positioned, and heat again ASSOCIATION NEWS applied. With experience, often the first heating will produce a good complete flow, and rarely will it take more than two or three ARIZONA heatings to have a perfect solder joint. When bezels are made The Arizona Clockmakers & Watchmakers Guild held their from bezel wire, Figtµ"e lH shows the wire stepped for a deep annual kick-off meeting in Phoenix on September 15, 1992. Bob seated bezel, while/11 shows the wire stepped for a shallow Macomber, A WI Area Representative, swore in the following seated bezel. In determining which one you will want to use, hold new officers for the 1992-93 season: Jim Phillips, president; Bob the stone edge on the seat of the wire. A thick girdle stone needs Richard, vice president; Bernie Gubin, treasurer; Sal DiStefano, the deep bezel, and a shallow girdle stone can usually get by with secretary; and Tom Baggett, director. the shallow-stepped bezel. The program "Advertising Clocks" was given by Jerry In most cases, I prefer to make my bezels from scratch. Macomber. She divided advertising clocks into three categories: I have in stock 14Kgold in 1-l/2mm thickness sheets, and from standard clock cases with advertising added; uniquely shaped this a piece can be sawed off 1-1/2 mm wide, giving a square clocks with a mechanism, e.g. a miniature General Electric 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 mm, and cut about 3 inches long. With the rolling refrigerator with an electric mechanism; and finally the special mill, it is reduced to 1/2 mm in thickness by annealing and paper mache cases made by Edward Baird. Jerry Macomber's rolling, and then annealing whenever it starts to get hard. By the own Ward's Orange Crush gallery clock prompted the research time it is rolled out to this thickness, it has approximately and final presentation. doubled in width and length. For smaller bezels, it can be reduced in thickness even more (to as small as .3 mm, which is about as CALIFORNIA thin as is practical--even for small bezels). If a seat is needed, it The San Diego Horological Society extends an invitation to any can be put in a smooth jaw bench vise and the edge bent over to and all watchmakers who are in San Diego and adjoining areas make an angle which can be shaped; thus, when the bezel is to attend their monthly meetings. They are held at the Howard complete, it will form the seat for the stone. This is only necessary Johnson, 4545 Waring Road, San Diego, CA 92120, in the if the hole in the mounting is large enough for the stone to go "Mission Room". Meetings are held the last Tuesday of each through. month at 7:30 pm. For additional information contact Carl Bezels without a seat can easily be made for any shape Goldberg at (619) 461-7046. O bezel--round, oval, square, rectangular, marquise, or pear. I've always favored making bezels or any other ring or jewelry components to eyeball and hand-shape to fit, rather than make -4:., Statement of Ownership. ~ Management and patterns and drawings using measurements (even though I do -~ Clrculatlon fR~br 3J V.S.C. 3685) know how to work from drawings and blueprints). Using this system, I can produce much more work in a given length of time, and often a better-looking and better-balanced piece is produced. To get the length of a piece, it is often easy to measure 3700 Harrtson Avenue. Cincinnati. Oh1o Hamilton 45Zll-4724 the old bezel with binding wire and cut it when the ends meet, ' .. - ...... - ... .. - ...... <;;o; ...... &!l;Oiii ...... __ Same n 1tem 4 and when straightened you have the correct length. It's best to cut a piece a little long, make a circle, and hard-solder the ends together. For round or oval, the stone can be tried for fit; the oval Milton t. S-t.H·an:s . WI. 3700 Har-rtson Ave. , Ctl'lc1nnu c, OH 45211-4724 can be bent to an oval from a round by bending the sides together ...... _ __ c::;:;;~m with the fingers, and if too tight, it can be stretched a little by r o.- tt ~ •, • ...,.._. _ _,_.,.._~_,,,,,...... ,_...... _,_,..., ___"' _._,_..,,-.- '--·-.iit-J-'4- , _ _....,,,,, . ...,._. "" -~ ~,,,-~ __ .. _ ' --'"' .,.,._ slipping on a round-tapered punch. If too loose, cut out a little, ~-:z::::=t"...:u~..,-~:- -~- · ~-,,,...... ,.,..,__.,,,._. ... _..,.,..__,_ and hard-solder it together again. For square, rectangular, or ..l.zdm ""'""""~'';;"''"" lomrnt• IJ'® ttml•Q11 ;;;''.'j;f,iili;:j'. I>! mu emerald cut, chain nose pliers can be used to make the shapes. Only with practice can you become efficient at these techniques. There is no way that I can put on paper all the ingenious devices that can be used, nor do I begin to know all of It them. is up to the individual craftsman to use his own ingenuity • , .. ~ ...... 1>1_..... ,,,...... ,.Nisll .. ._..l';_Ofti'~~& ft l'M ...... _...14__ ... ~ ...... _ ...... ,,_• ..,._ -'"--' ~ . .-. to be successful. •u lb ,...... ,..,,..,...__,,..__.., O~"itt:.-o..-. D~-~~ ~--- ., Next month: Flat bead-type settings. 8500 8500 0 None .... ·---...... - 5827 m l 5827 Wl 1624 ISSl 7451 ms ·~ ~ I OIW.....• - ..n_,__...__....,. .. ~ 1049 ua None .... Q TQf.l.L1.S-,.,f,"-"'-~~"6f~-,w.. .. .11 8500 ISGO I c.ntfy that tM •tat9men1• "'*by 1 ~-r- . ...., ~ ....- .. u...... ,... • 0"- -~.. • • 1t01r'K1~c~ i• C>.ula l . L.1Ftte11 e . GtMr~ 1 1'111 1u. i:ttr November 1992/Horological Times 43 ~ILTTARY TI~E Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI Elgin Wristwatch 8 I 0 Size; 7, 15, 16, 18 Jewels Part II Due to corrosion problems on their Grade 539 and 554 ofcase proved to be very effective against leakage when models, Elgin changed the finish on the -ratchet wheel, subjected to the waterproof test. crown wheel and washer, click, click spring, regulator, The Grade 647 was Elgin's 16th and 17th model upper balance endstone, and all screws to an "oxidize of their Shockmaster Series, with the upper and lower black all over" corrosion-resistant finish. balance pivots being fitted to incablocjewels. The sweep The 8/0 size, 17-jewel, Grade 647 was also a second mechanism was of the "indirect drive" type. hack-type of navigation watch. It was encased in a The dial was black and graduated in minutes, stainless steel, waterproof case with a rubber gasket with Arabic numerals, 1 through 12, indicating the thread cap which was fitted over the crown and screwed hours. The second dial orbit was graduated in seconds to the case. The cap was attached to the case by short with 10-second divisions indicated by small numerals. linkage arrangement so it would not become separated The hour numerals and hour, minute, and sweep second and lost when removed to wind and/or set the watch. hands were painted with a luminous material. Lumi The movement was also protected by a snap dust cover. nous dots indicated each five-minute and/or seconds This model watch was issued primarily to Navy divers increments. and underwater demolition teams, better known as The 8/0 size, 18-jewel, Grade 685 movement was "Frogmen." encased in a stainless steel, screw back case with an When I was at the Naval Observatory, this type unbreakable crystal. The exterior screw back was Figure 7. Elgin wristwatch, 16-jewel, Grade 539, 8/0 size, front and back. FRONT 44 Horological Times/November 1992 Figure 8. Watch, navigation, Type A-11, Elgin Grade 539. Figure 9. Case assembly, Type A-11 (part No. 1768), Elgin Grade 539. A I \ ' : ,. . .,..,,, . -- . - . : . . '. : : . . . - . . ·- ... - - BUY e SELL e HIRE e RELOCATE e LEARN e FIND A Classified Ad in HOROLOGICAL TIMES is an Inexpensive Way to Get What You Need! November 1992/Horological Times 45 Figure 10. Case assembly, Type A-11 (part No. 1783), Grade 539. r \ @ Figure 11. Case assembly, Type A-11 (part No. 2114), Elgin 539. 9 10 46 Horological Times/November 1992 Figure 12. Sweep second cock plate, wheel, and pinion, Type A-11, Elgin 539. .. Actual size (approx.) stamped: "Watch, Wrist; Second Setting, Navigation Hack; Type A-17A; Specification Mil-W-6433; Mfr's. Figure 13 (above). Two views of Elgin's Grade 556, 8/0 size, 21-jewel, nonhacking Part No. 2172; Mfr's. Serial No. AF-56-serial number; wristwatch. Movement No. R783,669, mounted in a screwback case, stamped: AF. Cont.No. DA-36-038-0RD-19798; Elgin National Watch U.S. Army, Type A-11, Spec. No. 94-27834-B, Ser. No. AF45-666, MFRG. PART No. Co.; U.S. Property."The dial was black with luminous 2114, ORD. No. W33-038-AC-6600, ELGIN (Fred C. Hougham, Daytona Beach, FL). painted Arabic numerals, 1 through 12. Small white Arabic numerals, 13 through 24, appeared just below each of the larger luminous 1 to 12 numerals. All of the hands were painted with a luminous material. Grade 685 wasElgin's21st model in their Shock master Series of sweep second wristwatches. Incabloc jewels were used to protect the upper and lower balance pi vats from shock and possible breakage. The plates and Support bridges were nickel plated with the following identifica tion marks: Elgin 685, USA, ADJ'D, 18 jewels stamped on the train bridge.No movement numbers appeared on The AWi-ELM TRUST any part of the movement. All movements that I have seen had a "D" stamped near the outer upper edge of the SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM train bridge. BY SENDING YOUR The sweep second mechanism was of the "indi OLD WATCH BATTERIES rect drive" type, utilizing Elgin's double sweep second TO THE wheel. AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS 0 INSTITUTE 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 November 1992/Horological Times 41 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAl(ING Woody Woodward Older Students Make Excellent Watch1nakers Enrollment Up at St. Paul Technical College This September when school started up again, I was maker. This display is meant to offer a suggestion to surprised by the number of people interested in all the people who come through the school's door for becoming watchmakers. the first time but still don't know what they want to I have 15 benches, so I accepted 17 students, do in life. This display consists of pictures of former thinking that surely two of them will drop out before students who used our course to help them become September. However, they all showed up! We did successful, and a list of the benefits of becoming some fast rearranging, putting one of my students watchmakers. temporarily at my "guest bench" in the back room. Many students like the opportunity to be Not only is enrollment at maximum capacity, come independent--the opportunity to work part but if one of these 17 drop out for some unforseen time or full time, to go into retail, to go anywhere and reason, there are 9 alternates that are waiting for an find a job, to operate out of their own homes, and to opening. I have these alternates numbered, with the repair watches, clocks, or jewelry the rest of their understanding that I'll notify them in case there are lives, not just until they retire. openings, and they'll have first priority for starting 4. Several students first heard of our watch classes in September 1993. making course from our own school's counselors and The increase in enrollment prompted me to from counselors in other vocational schools and evaluate where these students first heard about our colleges in our area. Watch, Clock, and Jewelry Repair Course, so that I 5. Some students saw our ad in the local would know where I should spend my time marketing newspaper under "Training for Position." in the future. 6. Other students saw our school's ad in the After I interviewed my watchmaking students yellow pages under "Schools and Training." I just and reviewed my notes, I discovered another sur started an ad in the phonebook called "Watch Repair prise. There wasn't any one or two methods of mar Training" under "Watch Repair and Services," but it's keting that produced so many new watchmaking too new to evaluate. students. It was a combination of things that influ 7. Some students said they got the AWI list of enced my students. REC watchmaking schools and then followed up with Following are the results of a survey that I phone calls to the different watchmaking schools took where I asked my students where they first requesting written information describing the watch heard of the course, and what methods of marketing making course. helped them decide to enroll as watchmaking stu 8. Nearly all students included a personal dents. visittoourWatch, Clock, apdJewelryRepairDepart 1. Many students heard about our course ment before they decided to come in. from watchmakers already in the trade, including 9. Some of my students said that my article recommendations from former students. entitled "A Visit to the Watch, Clock, and Jewelry 2. They learned of our watchmaking course Repair Course at the St. Paul Technical College" from our school's mail catalog which lists all of the (March '92 Horological Times) made them feel like courses and programs. (This catalog is mailed to they were already in the classroom. people in the St. Paul and Minneapolis area.) 10. Some students came because we referred 3. Several students saw my display by the to accepting older students. One student decided to front door of our school about becoming a watch- come because we welcome the older student, and 48 Horological Times/November 1992 because he knew of a 92-year-old watchmaker still repairing watches. 11. Four students noticed the benefits of BOOKS FROM AWi becoming a watchmaker because they have a physi cal handicap (a back problem, afoot or knee problem, QUESTIONS &ANSWERS IN QUARTZ WATCH REPAIRING--Alice or they are in a wheelchair). B. Carpenter and Buddy Carpenter. A basic understanding of quartz When I look out across my classroom and technology. $12.95 think back 27 years I can see a noticeable trend toward "older" students and away from the class of GRUEN WATCHES: A SPECIAL COLLECTION-Robert D. Gruen. old--the high school student. It has come gradually, A collection of Gruen watches with photos and descriptions. but today I don't have one high school student. $6.95 What I do see today are both men and women in their 40s, 50s, and 60s, and I have had excellent BENCH PRACTICES FORWATCH\CLOCKMAKERS-Henry B. Fried. students in their 80s. One 80-year-old had a job she Hairspring practices, replacing regulator pins, jeweling, and dial was going to retire from and didn't want to go home repairs. $19.95 and do nothing, so she came to class. Another factor that contributes to having MILITARYTIMEPIECES--Marvin E. Whitney. Probably the most com older watchmaking students is the condition of our plete compilation on military timepieces to date. $75.00 economy. The politicians have spent our children's money, and our children can't afford an education for THE BEST OF J.E. COLEMAN-CLOCKMAKER--Orville R. Hagans. the future. This means only the older people have An aid to solving everyday problems in clock repairing. $30.00 enough money to get an education, or geta retraining sponsor that can pay the high cost of tuition. ESSENCE OF CLOCK REPAIR--Sean C. ('Pat') Monk. A practicing Another factor that has contributed to my clockmaker reveals repairing secrets. $19.95 high enrollment is my new addition of an apprentice ship-type program, called Advanced Lab 1, Advanced HOW TO REPAIR HERSCHEDE TUBULAR BELL CLOCKS--Steven Lab 2, and Advanced Lab 3. G. Conover. A book forthe serious clockmaker interested in high quality Now my graduating watchmaking students can come timepieces. $12.95 back to school for an "apprenticeship" of an addi tional quarter (3 months, or about 400 hours), or an QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FOR THE CLOCKMAKING PROFES additional two quarters (6 months, or about 800 SION--AWI. Experts answer everyday questions about clock hours), or an additional three quarters (9 months, or making. $14.95 about 1200 hours). When we had our Minnesota Licensing Law, the graduating student was required QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FOR THE WATCHMAKING PROFES to apprentice under a Licensed Watchmaker for 4000 SION--AWI. Helpful information on repairing watches. $5.95 hours (two years) before they could take the state's test to get a license to practice watchmaking. I have REPAIRING QUARTZ WATCHES--Henry B. Fried. Includes a basic four students under Advanced Lab 1 this September. course in electricity & electronic horology. $22.95 In closing, I want to say that I really enjoy working with the older job-experienced person- STRIKING CLOCKS--Joseph G. Baier. Ph.D. A hands-on survey for honest people, with good communication skills and the clockmaker. $7.95 a willingness to make an effort in life. Watchmaking hasn't made me rich, but it has THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER--Marvin E. Whitney. A concise treatise promoted a lot of quality friendships--through our on the fascinating nautical timepiece, for the collector as well as the watchmaking school, the Minnesota Clockmakers horologist. $75.00 Guild, the Upper Southeastern Minnesota Watch makers Guild, the Minnesota Watch and Clockmakers WATCH & CLOCK INFORMATION, PLEASE·-W.H. Samelius. The Association, and the Minnesota Chapter of the Na writing of Samelius edited by O.R. Hagans. $30.00 tional Association of Watch and Clock Collectors. Ifyou know of someone interested in becom THE WATCH REPAIRER'S MANUAL--Henry B. Fried. The newly ing a watchmaker or a clockmaker and they are expanded and updated fourth edition of this popular textbook on watch willing to plan ahead for some future starting date in repair. $27.00 1993 or 1994, they can give me a call at St. Paul Technical College, (612) 221-1408. You may also want to contact the American If you are Interested In any of the above books, please send Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute for their new your order along with a check or money order made payable REC roster of the 23 watchmaking schools across the to AWi Press. (U.S. Funds only.) Include your name, ad dress, zip code, and phone number and send to: AWi U.S. and Canada. Their number is (513) 661-3838. Central, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. Have an excellent day! ALL BOOKS SHIPPED POSTPAID. 0 November 1992/Horological Times 49 New Products &Literature L&R'S FREE BOOKLET ON spirit with the warmth of wood are KASSOV'S NEW PROFESSIONAL JEWELRY two other burled-look offerings from EXTRA BRIGHT & WATCH CLEANING Sei ko--a charming desk table alarm MIKE/LIGHT L&R Manufacturing Company, a and aWestminster/Whittington wall The Lite Mite Circular fluorescent leader in ultrasonic cleaning sys clock. Suggested retail price: $250. illuminatoroffering bright, cool 360° tems and solutions for the jewelry For further information, shadow-free illumination is now trade, is offering their second book contact: Seiko Time, 1111 available exclusively from Kassay. let in an educational series to help MacArthur Blvd., Mahwah, NJ Adapted to fit all popular stereo the professional jeweler. Entitled 07430; (201) 512-3000. microscopes, featuring 4500 hours Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaning for the of bulb life, this lightweight and Professional, this booklet is a con rugged light boasts 5200 degrees cise presentation of ultrasonic Kelvin, the highest available. This cleaning for jewelry, watches, and illuminator will make your micro Aner two years of intensive development, clocks. The booklet also offers scope operate more efficiently and IWC introduced its self-winding split merchandising tips, along with in put extra bright cool light where you second chronograph called the formation on the proper solutions need it most. It is model #L9-11 O, 'Doppelchronograph' at Basel 92. It boasts a double seconds hand (a press on the 10 to be used with alloys and precious and retails for $211. o'clock pushpiece separates one from the stones. Contact: Kassoy, 16 other; the first stops while the second con Copies of this resource Midland Ave., Hicksville, NV tinues to move). A second press releases the first to fly back and rejoin the second's booklet are available at no charge 1180~; (800) 4-KASSOV; (516) travel. This intricately sophisticated system by contacting: L&R Manufactur· 942-0560. conveniently provides split times. Its move ing Co., 5n Elm St., Kearny, NJ ment stores a 48-hour power reserve, is 07032·3604; (800) 572-5326; in shielded against magnetic fields, and in cludes a day and date calendar. Its styling is NJ (201) 991-5330. Seiko Time akin to that of the famed 'Mark XI' (1948) and 'Fliegerchronograph' (1988) . IWC, BATTERY CLAMP & - Baumgartenatrasae 15, CH-8201 SCREW ASSORTMENTS Schaffhauaen, Switzerland. UuRASONIC FROM DRS, INC. JEWHRV When changing batteries, these ClEANING battery clamp and screw assort The mechanical watch at Uc ments are invaluable. They are in movement is justifiably considered PROFESSIONAL expensive, time-saving items, avail to be the art's finest accomplish able from DRS, Inc. The clamp ment. It can and will be further assortment is $19.95 for 50 pieces; improved and refined over the ...... _ years, and basic movements can screw assortment $12.95 for 1oo pieces. Contact DRS at (800) 223- Kassoy be enhanced with any number of 8960; (212) 810-0470. Also avail complex auxiliary functions watch able is DRS' new Watch Material & AT BASEL FAIR: makers call "complications.• This is L&R Manufacturing Tool Catalog. MECHANICAL WATCHES where computer power and graph Although most of the major devel ics, along with numerically con SEIKO ADDS BURLED opments in mechanical time date trolled machine tools, have become LOOK TO ITS from the last century and the early of inestimable value to modern-day CLOCK COLLECTION decades of the present one, 1992 traditional watchmakers. Seiko's handsome new wood man will go down as a pivotal year in the The collections presented tel clock is beautifully detailed with history of this intricate art. For some by Switzerland's watch designers abur1edfinishandfeaturesacharm years now, mechanical horology at and manufacturers at Basel 92 in ing pendulum sure to be a focal its finest has also experienced a clude practically every type of move point wherever it is placed. Elegant heartening revival. Yet it is only in ment and complication made: with Roman numerals accent its tradi very recent times that fresh ad hand or automatic winding, open tional ivory and golden dial. It also vances in technology have enabled worked skeleton designs, ultrathin features a Westminster /Whittington Switzerland's master watchmakers constructions, simple or perpetual quarter-hour chime and hourly to achieve what until a short time calendars, universal time displays, strike. A volume control and night ago they themselves would have power-reserve indicators, jumping time silencer is also offered. viewed as wildly utopian endeav hours, chronograph mechanisms, Also capturing today's ors. including a flyback hand, minute 50 Horological Times/November 1992 News in the Trade Sales and Marketing, was extremely pleased with the turnout and the fact that he could help such a needy cause. 'When we sponsor an event, it's important to work with a A minute repeater now joins the Vacheron local charity that's very involved in Constantin collection. This model with leather the comm unity. The Robin Hood strap offers a choice of 18K yellow gold or Foundation is extremely unique in 950 platinum case. The exact replica of a that they donate money to over 60 Vacheron Constantin model from the 1930s, it owes its revival to advanced technology. charitable organizations in the New The hand-wound movement, 31.40 mm York area,' said Geisler. across, is 3.30 mm thin. With a 48-hour The Robin Hood Foun power reserve, it strikes on demand the dation was founded in 1988tofind, hours; quarters and minutes on two gongs. Only 200 of this limited-edition model are to fund, and provide legal and man agement assistance to the best be made. Vacheron & Conatantln, 680 Lany Geisler (center), Director of Sales and Marketing for Audemars Piguet, was on hand Fifth Ave., Suite 1900, New York, NY nonprofit community-based orga as Audemars Piguet co-sponsored the Greenwich International Open. The winning 10019. nizations serving poor New York Revlon team is pictured holding their awards. ers. All of the money raised goes repeaters, and tourbillon systems. straight into the operating funds of number of members in the state. teries, jewelry findings, watch Some designs even combine from these organizations and nottowards Recipients must be U.S. residents, straps, tools, and supplies to over two to four of these intricate auxil· administrative overhead. at least 18 years of age, with a high 15,000 retailers in the U.S. They iary devices inside the same sleek The match itselffeatured school diploma or equivalent, and have made various acquisitions case, a number of them qualifying two powerful teams, with the Revlon have at least one year's experience within the last few years, among as world firsts. squad winning a 9-8 squeaker over in the jewelry industry working for a which include: A.J. Bartholomew With appreciation for the Oldfield. The winner of the most JA jeweler sponsor. Financial need (OH), Wesley & Co. (IL), South marvels of mechanical time grow valuable player award was Revlon's will also be considered in some west Batteries & Supplies (AZ), ing among people everywhere, Cristian Laprida, considered to be cases. and J & S Supply (MN) .. Switzerland's inventive watch one of the best 9-goal players in the 'This is a major gesture SBM Industries is also a manufacturers continue to demon world. of support for professional educa company that is seeking expansion strate their uncontested mastery of tion in the industry,' said GIA Presi and growth through acquisitions. this challenging art. dent William E. Boyajian. 'We are Together the two companies are MILLION-DOLLAR very pleased that Mike Roman and seeking to acquire companies that ROMAN/JA SCHOLARSHIP JA have made this funding avail will complement their present mar AUDEMARS PIGUET AND PLEDGED TO GIA able for JA members and their keting strategies and provide for LOCAL JEWELER SPONSOR The- Jewelers of America (JA) and employees.' future growth. CHARITY EVENT the Gemological Institute of America For further information, For more information, Audemars Piguet and Greenwich, (GIA) have announced the creation contact: JA Education Depart contact: Star Struck, 8 F.J. Clarke Connecticut's Betteridge Jewelers of the Michael D. Roman/Jewelers ment, 1185AvenueoftheAmeri Circle, Box308, Bethel, CT06801; brought Robin Hood toa polo match of America scholarship program. cas, 30th Floor, New York, NY (203) 778-4925; (800) 243-6144. on September 13, collecting money Under the terms of the 10036; (212) 768-8m. for some very needy causes. program, JA will contribute $1 mil The event was the Green lion to GIA over the course of four wich International Open, held at years, which is to be distributed as STAR STRUCK MERGES the Greenwich Polo Club and fea scholarships to qualified individu WITH SBM INDUSTRIES turing two of the finest polo teams als. Star Struck recently announced that in the U.S. The match benefitted Scholarship funds may it has completed the merger with the Robin Hood Foundation, a char be applied towards the tuition of SBM Industries, a publicly traded ity founded and run by Paul Tudor any GIA educational activity, in· company listed on the American Jones, the legendary Wall Street eluding multi-course home study Stock Exchange and trades under money manager. programs, one-week classes, and the symbol SBM. The merger was Audemars Piguet, along seminars taught in the U.S. completed after the shareholders with Betteridge Jewelers, were Anumberofscholarships voted their approval in August. sponsors of the event. Audemars will be made available to JA mem· Star Struck is a growing Piguet's Larry Geisler, Director of bers in each state, based on the company that markets watch bat- November 1992/Horological Times 51 Classified Ads REGULATIONS AND RATES Ads are payable in advance $.60 per word, $. 70 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $25.00 per column inch, 2-1 /4" wide. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance (e.g. January issue closes for copy on December 1st). HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Phone (513) 661-3838 Fax (513) 661-3131 Jaeger-Lecoultre ATMOS Overhauled QUARTZ CONVERSIONS With a 2-year warranty on all WATCH RUSTED? DISCONTINUED? labor & parts installed NO PARTS? SENTIMENTAL? GOLD CASE? MIKE'S CLOCK CLINIC SEND IT TO AL ZAMORA 1326 Stanford Street FOR A NEW SWISS QUALllY MOVEMENT ARE YOU SPENDING TOO MUCH FOR Santa Monica, CA 90404-2502 AND FIRST QUALllY JOB CONVERSION. Established in 1982 & AWi Trained CRYSTALS?? We will make any flat mineral 90% SIZES POSSIBLE. or heavy plastic One-day turnaround. Please Call (310) 828-6707 crystal. SAFE REGISTERED MAIL. Call or write for price list. D & H Crystal Co., ALFONSO ZAMORA 708-D Westchester Dr., High Point, NC 27262; 280 PRESIDIO PLACE (919) 889-0148. CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, material and tools. Custom made to order or BUFFALO, NY 14221 repair of gears, pinions, and parts. Catalog (716) 633-6138 ENGLISH CLOCKMAKER, I have 38 years $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338, Atwa experience in restoring French and English ter, OH 44201; (216) 947-2268. carriage clocks. Also making parts for platform escapement s, staffs, cylinders, pinions, CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, rebushing.REPAIRING:timers, aircraft clocks, repivoting, etc. JOHN BARRS, 3 Green St., TIMING MACHINES -- NEW AND REFUR pocket watches. ROYH. NIEGEL CMC, CMW, P .0 . Box 83, Gilbertsville, NY 13776; (607) 783- BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON N31552 Saint Drive, Spirit Lake, Idaho 2883. HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865. Joe 83869. SASE or CALL (208) 623-4330. Call (814) 692-2285. OVERHAULS include one year warranty on r------, American 8-day time and strike movements. DIALREFINISHINGCO.FASTSERVICE, I Bill Callaway, 324-1/2WashingtonSt., Wausau, FINEST QUALI'l.Y, quantity works welcome. WI 54401; (715) 842-0360. Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit I the quartz movement. Send your works to: I KIRKDIAL OF SEA'ITLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., CLOCKS: Custom pinion and gear cutting. Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. J2 ; I Repivoting and barrel repairs or complete move z· I ment restoration. Ye Old Clock Shop (formerly I Kazen & Son), 2051 Corunna Avenue, Owosso, WATCH RESTORATION and repair work. • -· MI 48867; (517) 725-8340, Ken Kazen, CMC. Custom St.affs, pivoting, regilding. RonDeCorte, I Box 6126, Toledo, OH 43614; (419) 381-1081. I BEFORE AFTER I ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE CRYSTALS -- FLAT GLASS Quartz Conversions I We are Factory Authorized Service for: Cut and Fitted Diamond Dial Conversions I * VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP Complete Material Supply House Emblem & Name Personalization * TICK-0-PRINT & L&R Old and New Material I We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate Write for Brochures Crystals of all Shapes and Sizes I reoordels, and related equipment. 25 years experience. BALTIMORE HOROLOGICAL INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. I JACK PHILLIPS & JEWELERS SUPPLIES 58 W. SUGARTREE ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE 5662 Baltimore National Pike P.O. BOX 970 I 757 Lincoln Ave., #26 San Rafael, CA 94901 Baltimore. MD 21228 WILMINGTON, OH 45177 I For Information Call (415) 453-9266 (410) 744-6658 Fax (410) 455-9621 L - - - _@!.3L382-4535 _ - - - ...J 52 Horological Times/November 1992 MURPHY'S :,:,;,:-:;: •,• A FREE'At:CtI:tk.tifV.RitFAIJ.{. J •:• .. ; START YOUR OWN TRADE SHOP Send 2 MENS Accutrons (no basket cases) learn how to start your own watch repair trade Will repair one free and keep the other CRYSTAL SERVICE shop. With this 90-minute audio cassette you FAST -- QUALITY WORK HAMILTON 505 CELL STRAPS will learn: * 24-hour turnaround on most jobs. $5 each - minimum order of 3 How to stock your trade shop * Complete crystal fitting service 6 for $25-12 for $40 How to figure out a price list for new and old wrist and pocket George Hite, 250 Hammond Pond Pky How to get work Chestnut Hill, MA (617)332-7368 watches. Business advice CALL OR WRITE FOR PRICE LIST SPACifii'JEw C-ONYERs-16NSiiis What to do and not to do PHONE (209) 576-8865 • •·'· Bench tips 2324 WESTMINSTER DR. And much, much more. MODESTO, CA 95355 To order, send$15.00by check or money order CUTI'ERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pin to: STAR AUDIO PRODUCTIONS, P.O. Box ions. Module 0.2to 1.0. Constant profile produc 9659, College Station, TX 77842. ingtraditionalsquare bottomed teeth, 104 sizes. Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven sizes), dead CWCK WHEEL AND beat (set of four sizes). Ratchets 60° and 70°. All PINION CUTTING cutters made in 8% cobalt M42 High Speed Steel and heat treated under vacuum. Also COMPUTER-AIDED Fast service -- Write for free Bro cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. Send for TIMING MACHINE chure and price list. Fendleys, 2535 Information Sheet, prices, and order forms to: With a touch ofthe computer keyboard, you can Himes St., Irving, TX 75060. (214) P .P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Horological display information on the screen that lets you Cutter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, Upper know just how well your clock or watch is 986-7698. Tyaoe, Warwickshire, CV350TR, England; Tele working. Detects fast or slow, in beat or out, and phone 0295-680454, Fax 0295-688176. problems with balance wheel or escape wheel. This unit is essential for all repair shops! Free brochure. Write H&S Technical Systems, Inc., POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR -- Bezels, Rd. 2, Box 2005, Underhill, vr 05489 or call hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, (802) 434-4328 or (802) 899-4324. Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., ITHACA CALENDAR CLOCK CO., INC. Benton, IL 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995. New calendar movements. Complete restoration of lthacas. 1-year warranty. WATCH DIAL MANUFACTURING EQUIP Old Ithaca Calendar Clocks for sale. MENT. Includingstampingdies, punch presses, CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CU'ITING, 2009 Dryden Rd., Freeville, NY 13068. foot soldering machine, etc. For more informa tion call International Dial Co., Inc., (513) 382- RETOOTHING, AND OTHER CUSTOM (607) 347-6661, 10-3. WORK.Movementsoverhauledwith2-year 4535. guarantee. All work done by a CMC or a CC. Send SASE for price list. HUGH'S CLOCK SHOP, 125 Ganttown Rd., Turnersville, NJ 08012; (609) 228-1589. NOW AVAILABLE An affordable machine that makes any shape THE MORTICIAN mineral glass watch crystal in minutes in your NO COMEBACKS own shop, for approximately 75¢ each. We correct past mistakes and bury them. Spe cializing in wheel work, repivoting, making of WATCHMAKER'S EQUIPMENT JUST IN: parts, Atmos clock service for over 50 years, and Vibrosonic A800 Watch Cleaner $1650, antique pocket watches. Repeaters, Audemars VibrografB200 $850, Watchmaster Ultrasonic Piguet, Piaget, Rolex, and Quartz Conversions. Watch Cleaner $395, L&R Master Cleaner All work guaranteed 2 years and done by Jal $99.95, 4&R Mastermatic Cleaner $195, New Small, CMW &Associates; (713) 561-5147. Hermes Universa1Engraver$1895. Send SASE for list of additional equipment and hand tools or list of pocket watches (please specify). WATCHES ETC., 5934 NW 39th, Oklahoma City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824. WHEEL & PINION CUTIING Now you can carry a pocket watch anytime with PARTS MADE the "POCKET WATCH POCKET'. Tucks be (CLOCKS ONLY PLEASE) tween trousers and shirt, chamois-like mate Traces the bezel shape directly onto the min CASE RESTORATION rial with stainless clip. $6.50ea. E-FAB Models, eral glass material with a diamond cutting QUICK SERVICE Inc., 106 Thicket Rd., Baltimore, MD 21212. point. Break off and lightly sand or grind. 220 SEND FOR PRICE LIST wet sandpaper, available at your local hard JIM DUBOIS ware store, works great. 330 STATE /lOAD 101 Ask your supplier for the AMHEllST, NEW HAMPSHIRE Watchmakers Tools, Levin Lathes, and 03031 Accessories, lOmm, 8mm. Send SASE for Schohl Crystal Cutting Machine f603) 673-3645 list to Mission Swiss Jewelers, 14 W. or AEMBEllNAWCC AW/ Figueroa St., Santa Barbara, CA 93101; Call (616) 842-6025 direct (805) 965-6715. November 1992/Horological Times 53 Classified Ads HAND CRAFTED DIAL WATCH Made in Toronto. Zodiac, Sports, Logos, Names. ETA movement, French straps, date, W(R, 5 micron. Retail $85-$125. 5-year war ranty. Looking for distributor. Canada Star CLOCK/WATCH - Repair/Sales. Long estab Watch, (416) 369-9417, FAX (416) 369-1766. lished business. $Real Money Maker$ Owner CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD selling due to health. Terms. Mid-West Coast of CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL Florida.GERRl(813)791-4419FLORIDABUSI Save time, money, and work re-cove!'lng NESS GROUP. bellows. Easler than replacing. For Infor mation, send buelnees-elze SASE to: Very Attractive Solid Braas Watch Stand JANDi GOGGIN Designed to hold most any size watch. Red felt in center d polished b 54 Horological Times/November 1992 We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King Experienced watchmakerin fine mechani St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab cal and quartz watches. (212) 696-1881, ask lished 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073. for Lenore. - Rolex -Patek Philippe - AMERICANKEYWINDPOCKETWATCHES, WATCHMAKER-forAuthorizedFactorySer PARTS, ETC. Also will pay up to $1000 for low Hamilton -Cartier -Movado vice Center in Miami, Florida. Good experience serial number keywind Longines. Hansen, 6605 -Audema"' -Tiffany in highqualitywatches, quartz, and mechanical Argent, Pasco, WA 99301; (509) 545-9929. required. Call Ebel USA (212) 888-3235. -Breguet -Breitling WANTED: Rolextools, cases, dials, movements, -Vacheron -Longines CLOCKMAKER WANTED: Experienced in all and complete watches, running or not. We also types of clock repair. Must be able to work buy watchmakers' tools and equipment, pocket ·independently and possibly do service calls. watches, and wristwatches. Single items or Southwestern Ohio region, Greater Dayton complete collections. WATCHES ETC., 5934 area. Send resume to: LarryYegerlehner, 5470 NW 39th, Oklahoma City, OK 73122; (405) 789- Brandt Pike, Huber Heights, OH 45424. 2824. CHARACTER WATCHES AND RELATED WATCHMAKERS NEEDED ITEMS WANTED. Also GS Plastic Crystals, UP TO $1,000 WEEKLY Y-837 and TF 1193. Buying quantity. Dean Taylor,P .O.Box6026,Sherman0aks,CA91413; PLUS BENEFITS (818) 763-7131. Certified in Rolex repair. HAMILTON ELECTRIC REPAIRMAN seeks Qualified in Bulova Accutrons. Military wristwatches, chronographs, glass parts! Movements, balances, etc. desperately (313) 358-9080 pocket watch crystals, Rolex crowns, crystals, needed. Want anything related to Hamilton bands, parts, tools. Hansen, 6605 Argent, Pasco, Electrics. Rene Rondeau, 120 Harbor Drive, WA 99301; (509) 545-9929. Corte Madera, CA 94925; (415) 924-6534; Fax (415) 924-8423. WANTED: Unusual American pocket watches/ movements. I buy entire collections, estates, LAlllE ACCESSORIES - Milling & index watchmakers' inventories. Over 31 years expe gear cutting equipment, cross slide, pul rience ofhonest and reliable confidential trans leys, etc. Jal Small, CMW; (713) 561-5147. High-grade watchmaker looking for position in actions. JON HANSON, Box 5499, Beverly pleasant working environment. Certified Ro lex Hills, CA 90210; (310) 826-7778. and Quartz. Can repair all makes and models. Very good with customers. Prefer southeast USA but will consider all offers. Contact: Rob Pocket& Wrietwatches Wanted Dead or Alive I Ameri ert L. Vierra, 203 Baker St., Chattanooga, TN can Waltham, lllinoie, Howard, Keywlnds, Gold, Watches Wanted 37405; (615) 265-3105. Early American, Chronometers, Repeaters, Patek Philippe, Vacheron , Unusual, Hlstorlcal, Fusees. CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-23.J-BUNN orWrite: Maundy International, P.O. Box 13028-H, Overland Park, Kansaa 66212. LED MODULES WANTED Cleanoutthejunkdrawer!Weareinterestedin WANTED purchasing LED Pulsar watches or modules. We desperately need for our retail * Watches: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemar Also interested in Sanyo ''banana" style LEDs, customers fine watches by: or Sanyo round (contacts at 2, 3, 4, and 8). Also, Piguet, Vacheron, LeCoi.Jltre, IWC, Etc. Handok 25mm LED modules. Pulsars need not Also Buying Low Grades--Gold-Filled & Gold Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet, be working to be considered. Call Marc at 1-800- (Hamilton, Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Etc.) Vacheron & C.Onstantin, Mova.do, Gubelin, etc. 359-2508. * Sterling & Plated Trays, Dishes, Service Sets, Etc. We are paying top prices for any high * Scrap-Gold-Filled, Gold, Silver, Platinum, HOROLOGISI'S' SEARCH AND RESCUE quality, unusual or complicated Watch Batteries (Silver or Mixed) SERVICE. Listing, matching service for watch Wrist or Pocket Watches make rs, clockmakers, and collectors. Computer data base, convenient, cost-efficient, current. ~~zz FREE 1-800-426-2344 When You 're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch Monthly updates, getting buyers, sellers, and SPECIALTY METALS Call us Toll Free 1-800-842-862 5 traders together. For more info send SASE to In Texas 1-214-902-0664 Horologists' Search and Rescue Service, P.O. REFINING COMPANY Box 14908, Dept. HT, Santa Rosa, CA 95402. 1O Bay Street Always prompt immediate payment! Westport, CT 06880 Wingate's Quality Watches RETIRING? I need to buy watchmakers tools Members: Better Business Bureau and related items. I will pay your price, in Jewelers Board of Trade P.O . Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 most cases. Call collect, Tom Mister (800) 446- Ron Fried President Our 91st Consecutive Ad 8094. November 1992/Horological Time; 55 Dates to Remember Ad Index NOVEMBER 1992 MARCH 1993 Blue Ridge Machinery & Tools ...... 27 Borel Co ...... 5 7--Watchmakers Association of New 12-14--Advanced Clock Repair Bench Jersey's Annual Dinner Dance, San Carlos Course (AWi); Roland Iverson, instructor; Restaurant, Lyndhurst, NJ. For more infor Grand Junction, CO.* Cas-Ker Co ...... inside back cover mation contact the Watchmakers Associa Charles Cleves ...... 15 tion of New Jersey, 368 Clover Lane, 20-21--Beginning Lathe Bench Course Wyckoff, NJ 07481 . (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; New Or Davis Supply ...... 37 leans, LA.* 8--Servicing ET A Quartz Chronographs DRS, Inc ...... ,...... 31 Bench Course (AWi); James Broughton, 27-28--Lathe Accessories Bench Course instructor; Houston, TX.* Roy Hovey, instructor; New Or (AWi); E & L Import, Inc ...... 35 leans, LA.* Esslinger & Co ...... inside front cover JANUARY 1993 Euro Tool ...... 27 APRIL 1993 23-24--Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Finn Time Products ...... 13 Bench Course (AWi); Robert Bishop, in 18--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs structor; Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX.* Bench Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor, Chicago, IL.* Gem City College ...... 39 Germanow-Simon Corp ...... 25 FEBRUARY 1993 MAY 1993 13-14--Advanced Quartz Watch Repair S. LaRose, Inc ...... 11 Bench Course (AWi); Robert Bishop, in 8-9--Beginning Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Livesay's, Inc ...... 21 structor; San Diego, CA.* James Lubic, instructor; New York, NY.* 19-20--Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench 15-16--Lathe Accessories Bench Course Mccaw Co., Wm. S...... 11 Course (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; (AWi); Roy Hovey, instructor; New York, Boston, MA.* NY.* New York Jewelers Supply Co ...... 6 20-21--Beginning Lathe Bench Course 21--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; Los Ange Bench Course (AWi); James Broughton, Otto Frei & Jules Borel ...... 28, 29 les, CA.* instructor; Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX.* 21--Basic Pocket Watch Bench Course Perfect Fit Crystal Co ...... 13 (AWi); Alice Carpenter, instructor; Atlanta, *For more information on AWi Bench Plymouth Watch Material ...... 39 GA.* Courses, Project Extend, and Regional Seminars, contact AWi Central, P.0. Box S & G Industries ...... 21 21--lntroduction to Clock Repair Bench 11011, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincin Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instruc nati, OH 45211; (513) 661-3838; Fax SMEA ...... 33 tor; Atlanta, GA.* (513) 661-3131. Toledo Jewelers ...... 9 21-22--Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Twin City Supply Co ...... 3 Boston, MA.* Vibrograf USA Corp ...... 23 27-28--Lathe Accessories Bench Course (AWi); Roy Hovey, instructor; Los Angeles, CA.* Watch Band Co ...... 18 Witschi Electronics ...... 17 56 Horological Times/November 1992 :@~~~~::~~::?<~.;~~~" I t . ,,.,.. ~,,li',~'\:;«;;\;:& :if?. A complete se ec 1on ., ..,w . . ,,,,,~,,~i for today's thin quartz watches as well as for most mechanical and diver's watches. Our new CK-133 assortment contains three each of 133 sizes of 0-ring gaskets, 399 MM Inside Outside MM Inside Outside MM Inside Outside Number Thickness Diameter Diameter Number Thickness Diameter Diameter Number Thickness Oiametl!!r Diameter total. Comes in a convenient 40-1100 .40 11.IJO 11.80 60-3220 .60 32-20 33,40 S0-2100 .so 21 .00 22.60 40-12SO .40 12.SO 13.30 60-33SO .60 33,SO 35.00 S0-2760 .so 27.60 29.20 hinged lid box with a listing of 40-1400 .40 14.00 14.80 711-1740 .70 17,40 1S.80 80·2840 .80 2S.40 30.00 40-1 SOO .4D 1S.00 1S.80 711-1850 .70 1S.SO 19.90 S0-2900 .so 29.00 30.60 thickness and inside and 40-1600 .40 16.00 16.80 70-1890 .70 1S.90 20.30 S0-291S .so 29.1S 30.7S 40-1700 .40 17.00 17.SO 70-192S .70 19.2S 20.6S S0-2930 .so 29.30 30.90 outside diameters of each 40-1900 .40 19.00 19.80 711-1960 .70 19.60 21.00 S0·2960 .so 29.60 31.20 40·2300 .4D 23.0D 23.80 711-1980 .70 19.SO 22.20 S0-3000 .80 30.0D 31 .60 number (shown at left). 40-2700 .40 27.0D 27.80 70-20SO .70 20.80 22.20 S0-3060 .so 30.60 32.20 40-27SO .40 27.80 2S.60 70-2130 .70 21.30 22.70 S0-3070 .so 30.70 32.30 40-2SOO ,40 2S.00 2S.80 70-2300 .70 23.00 24.40 S0-3130 .80 31.30 32.90 40-2900 .40 29.0D 29.80 711-2460 .70 24.60 26.0D SG-3160 .80 31 .60 33.20 40·3000 .40 30.0D 30.80 70-2500 .70 2S.OO 26.4D S0-3240 .80 32.40 34.00 40·3070 .40 30.70 31.SO 70-2660 .70 26.60 2S .OO S0-3300 .so 33.00 34.60 s399s 45-0S10 .45 S.10 9.00 70-2700 .70 27.00 2S .40 SS-2940 .SS 29.40 31.10 No.CK-133 S0-16SO .so 16.SO 17.SO 70-27SO .70 27.50 2S.90 90-1SSO .90 18.SO 20.30 S0-17SO .so 17.SO 1S.SO 711-2780 .70 27,SO 29.20 90-1860 .90 1S.60 20.40 Refills $1.2513 $3.SOdz S0-2020 .so 20,20 21.20 711-2850 .70 2S.SO 29.90 90-1900 .90 19.00 20.SO S0·2070 .so 20.70 21.70 70-2900 .70 29.00 30.40 90-1920 .90 19.20 21.00 S0-2200 .so 22.00 23.00 70-2940 .70 29.40 30,SO 90-2060 .90 20.60 22.40 S0-2400 .so 24.00 2S.OO 7G-29SO .70 29.SO 31.20 90-2130 .90 21 .30 23.10 Finest Quality at the S0-2SOO .so 25.0D 26.00 711-3000 .70 30.00 31.40 90-2220 .90 22.20 24.00 S0-2 600 .so 26.00 27.00 70-3020 .70 30.20 31 .60 90-2S10 .90 25.10 26.90 Lowest Price - S0-2700 .so 27.00 28.00 70-3060 .70 30.60 32.00 90-2S40 .90 28.40 30.20 S0-2800 .so 2S.OO 29.00 70-3140 .70 31.40 32.SO 90-2860 ,90 28.60 30.40 S0-2SSO .so 2S.SO 29.50 70-3180 .70 31.SO 33.20 90-2890 .90 28.90 30.70 Satisfaction S0·2900 .so 29.00 30.00 75-1660 .7S 16.60 18.10 90-3000 .90 30.0D 31.SO S0-3000 .so 30.00 31.00 7S-188S .7S 18.8S 20.3S 90-3020 .90 30.20 32.00 Guaranteed or Your S0-3100 .so 31.00 32.00 7S-1920 .7S 19.20 20.70 90-3060 .90 30.60 32.40 S0-3200 .so 32.00 33.00 75-2300 .7S 23.00 24.SO 90-3100 .90 31.0D 32.SO S0-3300 .so 33.00 34.00 75-2600 .7S 26.00 27.SO 90-3180 .90 31 .80 33.60 Money Back. SS-1790 .SS 17,90 19.00 75-2740 .75 27.40 2S.90 100-1900 1.00 19.00 21.00 60-1000 .60 10.00 11.20 75-2·790 .75 27.90 29.40 100-2600 1.00 26.00 2S.OO 60-17SO .60 17.50 1S.70 7S-2880 ,7S 2S.SO 30.30 100-27SO 1.00 27.SO 29.SO 60·19SO .60 19,80 21 .00 7S-2910 .7S 29.10 30.SO 100-2900 1.00 29.00 31.00 60·2100 .60 21 .00 22.20 75-2930 .7S 29.30 30.80 10G-29SO 1.00 29.SO 31 .SO 60-216S .60 21 .65 22.85 75-2970 .7S 29.70 31.20 100-2975 1.00 29.7S 31.75 60-2450 .60 24.SO 2S.70 75-3000 .75 30.00 31.SO 100-3000 1.00 30.00 32.00 60-2500 .60 25.00 26.20 75-3065 .75 30,65 32.15 100-3060 1.00 30.60 32.60 60-2700 .60 27.00 28.20 75-3100 .75 31.00 32.50 100-3075 1.00 30.75 32.JS 60·2890 .60 2S.90 30.10 75-3130 .75 31.30 32.80 10G-317S 1.00 31 .75 33.75 60·2950 .60 29.SO 30.70 S0-1650 .80 16.SO 1S.1 0 100-3200 1.00 32.00 34.00 60-3000 .60 30.00 31.20 S0-1675 .so 100-3250 1.00 32,50 34.50 60-3080 .60 30.80 32.00 S0-1S70 AWi BENCH COURSES To register for these courses, please send along with your request a registration fee of $35 per instruction day {for AWi members) to: AWi Central 3700 Harrison Ave., P.O. Box 11011 Cincinnati, OH 45211 PLEAS~ NOTE: Registrations are limited and will be selected by the earliest postmarks. You may register by fax if you wish; if so, please include your Visa or MasterCard number, card expiration date, and signature. FAX: (513) 661-3131. For more information, call (513) 661-3838. JANUARY 1993 23-24--Advanced Quartz Watch Repair--Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX / ~Q!.!B§E;§ fl ltt&m!JCTOB§ FEBRUARY 1993 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair 13-14--Advanced Quartz Watch Repair--San Diego, CA Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW 19-20--Repair of the Atmos Clock--Boston, MA Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Robert Bishop, CMEW 20-21--Beginning Lathe-Los Angeles, CA Basic Pocket Watch 21--Basic Pocket Watch--Atlanta, GA Allee Carpenter, CMW, CMEW 21--lntroductlon to Clock Repair--Atlanta, GA Introduction to Clock Repair 21-22--Repair of the Atmos Clock--Boston, MA Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW Advanced Clock Repair 27-28--Lathe Accessories--Los Angeles, CA Roland Iverson, CMC Repair of the Atmos Clock MARCH 1993 Gerald Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI Beginning Lathe 12-14--Advanced Clock Repalr--Grand Junction, CO James Lubic 20-21--Beginning Lathe-New Orleans, LA Cuckoo Clock Repair ' 27-28--Lathe Accessories--New Orleans, LA James Wiiiiama, CC 400-Day Clock Repair John A. Nagle APRIL 1993 Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs 18--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Chicago, IL James Broughton, CMEW Remy Waelchli Advanced Lathe MAY 1993 Roy Hovey 8-9--Beginning Lathe--New York, NY Striking Clocks 15-16--lathe Accessories--New York, NY John Nagle \. ~ 21--Servicing ET A Quartz Chronographs--Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX PROJECT EXTEND CLASSES Contact AWi Central for the General Information brochure for Project Extend and specific course brochures for classes that interest you. Feb. 8-12 Watch I James Lubic Aprll 19-23 Clock Ill David Chrlatlanaon (staffing, poising, timing) (restoration) Feb.15-19 Watch II Harold Herman May 10-15* Lathe I Roy Hovey (hairspring vibrating, finishing) May 17-22* Lathe II Roy Hovey March 8-12 Watch Ill James Lubic (complicated) June 7-11 Watch VI Allee Carpenter (basic pocket watches) March 15-19 WatchV Ron DeCorte (advanced pocket watch servicing) *6-day classes