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Monet Evening Bag Marilynn Cowgill

Structure Bateman extended manifold twill. Equipment 8-shaft loom, 12" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles, 2 . Warp: 8/2 Tencel (3,360 yd/lb, Valley Yarns, WEBS), black, 433 yd. Weft: 100% bamboo (2,100 yd/lb, Bambu 7), #297, Chagall Blue, 109 yd. Tabby Weft: Metallic , used doubled (1,100 yd/ spool, Madeira FS #40), Gold #8, 218 yd. Other Supplies 7 thread; ⁄8" ; inter- 1 : ⁄3 yd fusible hair canvas, 1 ⁄3 yd fusible silky-weight interfac- 1 ing; ⁄3 yd fabric. Warp Length 288 ends 1½ yd long (allows 1" for take-up, 32" for loom waste; includes 2 ends for floating sel- vedges). Setts Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12- dent reed). Weft: 28 ppi combined (14 ppi pattern, 14 ppi tabby). Dimensions Width in the reed: 12".

O CA Woven length (measured under tension on the loom): 21". Finished size after washing: E C J O E BY Photo 11" × 20".

Project originally published in Handwoven magazine, 2013. © F+W Media, Inc. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. Join our online weaving community at WeavingToday.com, and visit InterweaveStore.com/weaving.html for more great projects!

page 1 1. Draft 5x 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 tabby cont'd

veryone can use a beautiful handwoven 8 8 8 8 8 evening bag! This captivating little bag 7 7 7 E 6 6 5 5 will sit quietly with you and a special friend as 4 4 3 3 you contemplate the changing light on a 2 2 2 French cathedral or the gentle waters of a 1 1 1 1 pond in Versailles Park. Cerebral and even a = oating selvedge = Bambu weft bit reserved, it’s one of those elegant but quiet = metallic gold weft beauties that, once seen, can never be put out of mind. This little pouch bag has hints of gold thread all through it, making it sparkle in the Wind one of each of the weft col- moonlight. It is woven with Tencel and ors, doubling the gold thread on the bob-

2 repeat - bamboo, practical but luxurious fibers. The bin. gold thread makes this bag more precious and just a little special. Its small size means Spread the warp using treadles 1 and 2. use tabby it’s practical for tucking under your arm or 3 Follow the treadling in Figure 1, using the blue Bambu 7 for the pattern weft and the resting gracefully in your hand. doubled gold thread for the tabby.

Resources Remove fabric from the loom. Machine Strickler, Carol. A Weaver’s Book of 8-Shaft Patterns. 4 the raw edges to secure. Handwash Loveland, Colorado: Interweave, 1991. the fabric, roll in a towel to blot out any “Manifold/Corkscrew Twills, #264,” p. 66. excess water, and lay flat to dry. Press lightly if needed.

Wind 286 warp threads 1½ yd long. Use 1 your preferred method to warp the loom, and thread following the draft in Figure 1. Sley 2 per dent in a 12-dent reed, center- ing for a weaving width of 12". Measure 2 threads for floating selvedges, sley them in their own dents on either end, and weight them over the back beam.

Project originally published in Handwoven magazine, 2013. © F+W Media, Inc. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

page 2 Making the Twisted Cord Fuse the two pieces of hair canvas in- Place the gusset linings and gussets terfacing on top of the other hair can- right sides together and stitch the The twisted cord used for the button 4 7 vas , leaving ½" free at the straight edge, turning, pressing, and closure is a combination of warp and weft fold line between the body and the then understitching the lining to the threads. Measure 8 strands 15" long: 2 flap and placing the edges on the allowance as for the body. Un- strands each of Tencel and bamboo, plus 4 seam lines. Using a light pen or pencil, fold and press flat. strands of metallic . Smooth all 8 mark the loop placement, centers, and strands together, tie a slipknot in one end, fold lines directly onto the hair canvas, With right sides together, smooth the then out the pattern pieces, cut- lining from the flap down towards the and secure the slipknot to a stationary 8 ting along the edges of the hair can- fold line, rolling the top seam slightly object. Grasp the other end and extend vas. downward. Press and on both the yarn fully, putting tension on all sides. Stitch one flap side seam from strands together. Twist the yarn bundle Position the loop cord on the right the top corner to the notch and se- until all the strands are twisted tightly 5 side of the flap, with the ends at the cure with backstitching. On the other together. (The bundle will be shorter cut edge and the loop on the flap. side, stitch from the upper corner Place each side of the loop so that it along the seam line for ½". Starting at when it's twisted.) crosses the intersection of the loop the bottom of the flap, stitch up along Maintaining tension on the entire placement marks and the seam line the seam line for ½" backstitching at 3 length, pinch the middle of the bundle ( ⁄8"), and the knots are in the seam al- both ends. The space between these between your thumb and forefinger and lowance. The ends will lay at about a two short seams will be used to turn bring the ends together to fold the twisted 45° angle. the ends in place inside the bag. the knots, close enough to the seam cord in half. Slowly release tension, line that they will not shift when you Leaving the body right sides together, allowing the cord to twist on itself. Let go sew the seam. 9 pin the gussets to the body right sides of the middle and smooth the cord from together, with the gusset lining to the the ends to the cord, then tie a knot to Place right sides of the body lining main body lining, and the gusset fab- secure the cut ends. Measure a 3" length 6 and the body fabric together and ric to the main body fabric. Place the in the middle of the cord and mark with stitch the top edge of the flap. Turn center seams of the gussets at the top and press the seam toward the lining. line of the front and the center end straight through the cord. This will Understitch by stitching the lining to points of the gussets at the bottom be your loop. Tie a knot outside each pin, the next to the seam fold lines. pulling the knot tight against the pin, then stitching. Repeat for top edge of the remove the pins. the excess cord front. 1 about ⁄8" outside each knot.

Sewing the Bag

Scale up the pattern for the bag, Figure 2. Pattern

2, to the actual size given. Mark the 7 7 1 3 8" 2" 3 8" placement of the loop, centers, fold lines 3 4 4 " and lengthwise . Note that all 3 button loop placement seams are ⁄8". Fuse the silky-weight inter- facing to the wrong side of the lining 4" Flap Gusset fabric. Cut out two gussets and one bag 4" body from the interfaced lining fabric. grain fold center Cut out one bag body and two gussets Bag Body Cut 1 main body piece from: from the hair canvas interfacing. Fuse 7 • hair canvas interfacing 2 4 8" • interface lining fabric the pieces onto the wrong side of the Back 3 13 4 " handwoven fabric keeping the length- Cut 2 additional pieces of hair canvas interfacing: one 9" x 9 ⁄" and one 9" x 3 ⁄" wise grain indications straight on the grain lengthwise center fabric. Cut two gussets each from: • hair canvas interfacing • interface lining fabric

Cut an additional piece of the hair can- 7 Front Fuse the pattern pieces cut from the hair canvas 4 8" vas interfacing 9" × 12¼". Cut into two interfacing onto the handwoven fabric, keeping the grainlines straight, and cut out. 3 1 pieces: 9" × 3 ⁄8" for the flap, and 9"× 1 9 ⁄8" for the main body.

3 9 4 "

Project originally published in Handwoven magazine, 2013. © F+W Media, Inc. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

page 3 Sew each gusset into the body sides Using steam, press the gusset seams corner, directly on top of the seam 10 starting at the fold line between the 13 inside and out. Smooth and press the stitching. flap and back, and with the main body flap lining and pin it to the outer fab- piece on top. ric along the fold line. along Fold the gussets toward the inside of the fold line through both layers 15 the bag along their center fold lines. Check the seams, and press toward the from the outside, starting and ending Tack together at the top edge, sewing 11 gussets. Sew once more around the ½" from side seams. as close to the side seams as possible. gussets within the seam allowance. Match up the fabric and lining seams Mark button placement. Smooth the Reach through the opening in the flap 14 on the four top corners of the body. 16 bag’s front lining so it won’t roll out, 12 and turn the bag right side out. For Stitch ½" down the seams on each and sew on the button, sewing the easiest turning, pull the furthest through all layers. gusset though the opening first. Press the flap well. Handsew the opening shut.

Project originally published in Handwoven magazine, 2013. © F+W Media, Inc. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

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