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Leather and Leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York 338.4’7685’0942843’0902

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Leather and Leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York 338.4’7685’0942843’0902 The Archaeology of York Volume 17: The Small Finds General Editor R.A. Hall © York Archaeological Trust for Excavation and Research 2003 Published by Council for British Archaeology Bowes Morrell House 111 Walmgate York YO1 9WA The Archaeology of York Vol.17: The Small Finds Fasc.16: Craft, Industry and Everyday Life: Leather and Leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York 338.4’7685’0942843’0902 First published in print format 2003 ISBN 1 902771 36 2 ISBN 978-1 874454 50 2 (e-book) Printed by Cover design: L. Collett Charlesworth Cover photography: M. Andrews Huddersfield W. Yorkshire Craft, Industry and Everyday Life: Leather and Leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York By Quita Mould, Ian Carlisle and Esther Cameron Published for York Archaeological Trust by the 2003 Council for British Archaeology Contents General Introduction .....................................................................................................................................................3185 Introduction to the sites and their dating by R.A. Hall, N.F. Pearson and R. Finlayson ........................................3187 The nature of the assemblages .....................................................................................................................................3203 Conservation of the Leatherwork by J.A. Spriggs .....................................................................................................3213 Craft and Industry .........................................................................................................................................................3222 The surviving evidence ...........................................................................................................................................3222 The leatherworking trades ................................................................................................................................3222 Current documentary knowledge by Lisa Liddy ............................................................................................3222 The street-name evidence by Gillian Fellows-Jensen .......................................................................................3226 The physical evidence ........................................................................................................................................3227 Environmental evidence by Allan Hall and Harry Kenward ..........................................................................3230 The osteological evidence by T.P. O’Connor....................................................................................................3231 The leatherworking tools recovered by Patrick Ottaway and Carole A. Morris ..........................................3235 The waste leather with a contribution by Ailsa Mainman ...............................................................................3245 The craft of the leatherworker................................................................................................................................3256 The shoe-maker ...................................................................................................................................................3256 Shoe construction with a contribution by Penelope Walton Rogers .................................................................3256 The sheath- and scabbard-maker .....................................................................................................................3261 Decorative techniques employed on leather .................................................................................................3262 Teeth marks..........................................................................................................................................................3264 Types of leather used .........................................................................................................................................3265 Conclusion .................................................................................................................................................................3267 Everyday Life ..................................................................................................................................................................3268 Introduction ...............................................................................................................................................................3268 Shoes ...........................................................................................................................................................................3268 Constructions ......................................................................................................................................................3268 Anglo-Scandinavian styles ...............................................................................................................................3274 Medieval styles ...................................................................................................................................................3312 Sizes ......................................................................................................................................................................3336 Decoration with a contribution by Penelope Walton Rogers .............................................................................3340 Refurbishment and repair .................................................................................................................................3346 Foot pathologies ..................................................................................................................................................3351 Sheaths and scabbards with a contribution by John A. Goodall ............................................................................3354 Other leather objects ................................................................................................................................................3392 Wealth and status reflected in the leather from York .........................................................................................3415 The Wider Picture ..........................................................................................................................................................3418 Anglo-Scandinavian and medieval leather found at York ................................................................................3418 Comparable assemblages from elsewhere in Britain .........................................................................................3426 Possible cultural influences ....................................................................................................................................3428 International relations by Carol van Driel-Murray ...............................................................................................3431 The significance of the York assemblage by R.A. Hall ........................................................................................3436 Catalogue .........................................................................................................................................................................3439 Appendix: Quantifications of shoes of each style ....................................................................................................3533 List of Figures 1559 Plan showing position of (1) 16–22 Coppergate; (2) area of Watching Brief, zones 1–7; (3) 22 Piccadilly; (4) St Mary, Castlegate; (5) All Saints, Pavement........................................................... 3188 1560 Plans of the site at 16–22 Coppergate showing the area of deposits excavated for Periods 2–5 ..... 3192–3 1561 Plans of the site at 16–22 Coppergate showing the area of deposits excavated for Period 6 ........... 3194–5 1562 Plan showing the location of excavations, and building recording in the Bedern area ........................ 3200 1563 Recording leather before conservation .......................................................................................................... 3214 1564 The freeze-drier in use with leather ............................................................................................................... 3216 1565 Conservator in the process of reconstructing a shoe ................................................................................... 3217 1566 Scabbard 15661: (a) before conservation; (b) during conservation (gap filling); (c) during conservation (painting gap-filled sections) ................................................................................................... 3218 1567 Reconstructed leather footwear....................................................................................................................... 3219 1568 Shoe uppers which received different conservation treatments: (a) Pliantine (15880–1); (b) Bavon (15498 and 15509); (c) freeze-drying (15507 and 15510) ........................................................... 3220 1569 Untanned calfskin 15823 .................................................................................................................................. 3220 1570 Plan of York showing streets and parishes associated with leatherworking .......................................... 3225 1571
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