A Small Farm Grows on Chappy

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VINEYARD GAZETTE MEDIA GROUP | AUGUST 2018 SLIP AWAY A small farm grows on Chappy

Making it Local: Farm.Field.Sea’s Pop-up dinners & tours

The Bread Baker of Beach Road

Fit to FARM: Eunice Youmans 2

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CONTENTS, AUGUST 2018

Departments

4 Editor’s Note Features 5 On the Rock 8 Vine and Dine 10 Slip Away to Chappy The Baker of Beach Road In six years, farmers Lily Walter and 23 Insta Island Collins Heavener have grown Slip Away Farm into an integral and well- The Farm Life loved part of the Chappy community. 24 By the Numbers BY KATE TVELIA ATHEARN At the Table 16 Fit to FARM Eunice Youmans, general manager of the Trustees of Reservations properties on the islands, approaches life and work on the Vineyard with gusto. BY JOYCE WAGNER Cover photo: At Slip Away Farm, left to 18 Making it Local right: Lucy Leopold, co-owner Collins In her fifth year of Farm.Field.Sea., Heavener, co-owner Lily Walter (with Nevette Previd adds two new events. Juna), Juliet Smith and Peter Kirn. Photo BY LOUISA HUFSTADER by Jeanna Shepard

From the Editor THE VINE Something from Nothing Vineyard Gazette Media Group

unny how things work. This issue of the Vine is ostensibly about the food F EDITOR Susie Middleton and farming community on the Island. (It is the season, after all.) But what ASSOCIATE EDITOR Nicole Grace Mercier quickly becomes evident when reading the stories is how much the indepen- CONTRIBUTORS Noah Asimow, Kate Tvelia Athearn, Chris Burrell, Katherine dent, entrepreneurial spirit is alive and Gianni, Louisa Hufstader, Mark Alan well around here—and how much that Lovewell, Jeanna Shepard, Joyce Wagner relentless energy contributes to success PUBLISHER Jane Seagrave on the Island. Nevette Previd (p. 18) started an agri- BUSINESS MANAGER Sarah Gifford tourism business (the first of its kind on DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING the Island) and now is in her fifth year. Skip Finley | [email protected] Lily Walter and Collins Heavener (p. 10) SALES TEAM Frederica Carpenter, Gary took a blank slate in Chappy and turned Cook, Amy Kurth, Garrett Burt it into Slip Away Farm, now in its sixth DESIGN PRODUCTION Emily Hanson year. There are three new farming ven- AD PRODUCTION Jane McTeigue, Jared tures at the West Tisbury Farmers' Mar- Maciel, McKinley Sanders ket—as well as a chef's crêpe trailer (p. 5). Both Eunice Youmans (p. 16) and Les- Copyright 2018 by the Vineyard Gazette Media Group. No part of this publication lie Hewson (p. 8) are pushing their jobs may be reproduced without the written beyond their traditional descriptions. permission of the publisher. At the same time, each of these ener- getic Islanders has gotten a start or a To subscribe to the Vineyard Gazette, boost from Island organizations, other visit vineyardgazette.com/subscribe. businesses or supportive community members. It seems if you build it – with a Vineyard Gazette Media Group little help from your Island friends – they P.O. Box 66, 34 So. Summer Street, will come. Edgartown, MA 02539 —Susie Middleton [email protected] | 508-627-4311 Page 4 · THE VINE 5

ON THE ROCK Shop Small Island entrepreneurs: good taste, great design

AT THE MARKET Vineyard Hospital, she’s fantasized about farming her whole life. The duo started Four to follow farming last October, and have a healthy array of vegetables and edible flowers at The West Tisbury Farmers’ Market is their booth. excited to welcome four new booths to The Wednesday market also has a new their Wednesday lineup this year. edible fungi operation. Martha’s Vine- At one end of the market is Milkweed yard Mushrooms is run by mother-son Farm from Chilmark. Milkweed took duo Kathryn and Tain Leonard-Peck. The over Quanaimes Gardens and is run by West Tisbury farm offers a variety of arti- its founder, former Michigander Mallory sanal mushrooms, handmade salves, and Watts, and her friend Jackie Solomito. even tubes of mushroom-based lip balm. The pair met playing ice hockey at Man- Rounding out the quartet of new hattanville College and kept in touch. vendors is The Miller’s Wife Sweet and Now they’re working hard on turning Savory Crêpes trailer. Chef and former the once-grassy Chilmark fields into fer- food writer Kay Renschler (who also tile land. Although Jackie doesn’t have an happens to be the wife of Glenn Rob- extensive farming background, Mallory erts, the founder of Anson Mills) offers has worked at Quanaimes Gardens since both savory crêpes (rustic buckwheat 2013. with bluefish salmon is one option) and Also new to the Wednesday market is sweet variations (Strawberry Rhubarb Milkweed’s Chilmark compatriot, Loon and Crushed Coconut meringue sounds Farm. The couple who own Loon Farm, amazing). Catch Kay, Glenn and crew Lauren and David Ginsberg, moved to with their little red trailer (right), along the Vineyard from Southern California with the other three new booths, every five years ago. While Lauren (pictured in Wednesday at the Grange Hall from 9 gray shirt with her friend Gabriella Ca- a.m. to noon through August 29. milleri) works as an internist at Martha’s —Noah Asimow Linda Alley photos THE SNACK The chipotle adds an unexpected kick. Nuts in the news “On a spicy scale I would rate the heat

a six out of ten,” Anne said. Her daughter Anne Zenker of Martha’s Vineyard Nuts Izzy Mackell, who helps roast the nuts has turned her passion for a snack food and promote the business on social me- into a full-blown company. Last fall she dia, concurred. began selling her nut mix — a trifecta of Once the nuts are dressed in the sea- savory, spicy, and sweet — to grocers all soning, Anne roasts them for four and a across the Island. From Cronig’s Market half minutes at 350 degrees, tossing them to Morning Glory Farm to Menemsha at the halfway point. She spends eight to Market, the containers sit ready for Is- ten hours per week roasting at The Lar- landers and tourists alike to enjoy. der in Vineyard Haven and goes through “This is something I’ve made for my approximately three to four pounds of friends and family for a long time,” Anne rosemary in the process. explained. It was with their support that she began her quest to share her medley “Most people say they’ve never had with the rest of the world. anything like them before,” Anne said. “And a lot of people tell me they’re ad- The mix contains four different nut va- dicting.” rieties: cashews, walnuts, pecans, and al- monds. While the cashews dominate the The entrepreneur says she hopes to mix, each nut gets coated in an equally expand her business off-Island in the hearty layer of Anne’s signature season- coming months. The new locales? Ski ing, or “gravy.” The combination of ingre- resorts across the country. But for now, dients works together to give her nuts the nut connoisseurs can rely on picking up perfect flavor. The recipe is simple. a container before heading to their favorite Vineyard beach. “I use a mix of Vermont maple syrup, brown sugar, fresh orange juice, orange For more information on Martha’s zest, rosemary, and chipotle spice,” Anne Vineyard Nuts visit mvnuts.com. Izzy Mackell explained. —Katherine Gianni THE VINE · Page 5 6

DAZZLE leather-lined footwear handmade from vintage Uzbek caftans and quilts. Handmade in Edgartown For the bedroom, Kissmet has silk-on- silk embroidered Uzbek Suzani coverlets Tucked away in Edgartown’s Nevin and shams. The jewelry case highlights Square on Winter Street, Kissmet catches traditional designs with crystals and your eye with a window full of gleaming, semiprecious stones. Owners Recep jewel-toned Ottoman hanging lamps. The Dinli and Vicki Carew will gladly make shop itself is an orderly trove of hand- you a cup of Turkish tea or coffee while spun rugs, Turkish towels, kilim handbags you shop. and other accessories, as well as elegant —Louisa Hufstader

Louisa Hufstader photos

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Paid for by the committee to elect Daphne DeVries • PO Box 2234, Edgartown, MA 02539

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VINE & DINE

In the early morning hours before the restaurant opens, Leslie Hewson is in the kitchen of Beach Road baking sourdough loaves, foccacia (above), brioche, and challah (right).

The Baker of Beach Road “I really enjoy bragging about that just two of the elements Leslie con- part,” Leslie says. “It can’t help but be lo- siders when she arrives at the bakery cal.” around 5:30 a.m. The temperature of the Leslie Hewson’s locally grown starter fuels the French- flour and the water and even the friction style sourdough loaves she bakes for Beach Road and A lifelong cook and former restaura- teur, Leslie learned to make artisan bread caused by the mixing machine all have to State Road Restaurants. from the famed Jeffrey Hamelman, with be taken into account. BY LOUISA HUFSTADER • PHOTOS BY JEANNA SHEPARD whom she studied at the King Arthur When it comes to ingredients, Les- Flour teaching facility in Vermont. lie is a firm believer in King Arthur unbleached flour. We’re reaching peak locavore season on “Wild yeast—it’s very cool,” says Les- Despite having cooked in the restau- Martha’s Vineyard, where in August you lie, who bakes all the breads for sister rant business since her teens, “I never “Unbleached product is why the can assemble a complete meal of Island restaurant State Road in West Tisbury as thought I’d make bread, because it was bread inside looks the way it does: It is ingredients: corn, tomatoes, greens and well. so difficult for me,” she said. not white, it’s creamy. There are no con- ditioners (added ingredients),” she says. colorful vegetables, freshly-caught fish About three years ago, she started the “I was extremely intimidated by and for dessert, melons or blueberries. culture that lifts and flavors her French- bread. It was a mountain I overcame.” With just three ingredients—flour, Now you can add Island-grown bread style sourdough loaves. The original in- To become the accomplished baker water and starter—Leslie’s loaves are as to the menu. Beach Road restaurant in gredients were flour from locally-grown she is today, Leslie had to shift her ex- clean as bread can be. She now turns out Vineyard Haven opens its front room rye, some Island apple and water. pectations as a chef. Bread dough, alive about three dozen a day at Beach Road, with countless microorganisms, doesn’t where she also makes all the special daily at 2 p.m. to sell baker Leslie Hew- Once the starter was good and lively submit to handling the same way har- cakes. son’s sourdough loaves, along with chal- with airborne bacteria from the Vineyard vested foods do. lah and brioche, for $4 to $8 a piece (plus atmosphere, Leslie started feeding it dai- And the chef who never thought she’d tax). ly with Island-grown red fife wheat from “You think you can have control,” Les- be a baker is now thinking about teach- These are the same house-baked Dan Sternbach’s Lost & Found Grain of lie said. “You have to give it up and trust ing a bread-baking class of her own, so breads available inside the restaurant West Tisbury. At the Beach Road bakery, your ratios and trust your recipes, and others can conquer the “mountain” she at dinnertime, made with natural sour- she now adds about 1,000 grams a day to watch the weather.” scaled. dough from local grains. her sourdough culture. Air temperature and humidity are “I’m glad I stuck with it,” Leslie says. Page 8 · THE VINE 9

VINE & DINE

In the (relatively) cool morning kitchen, Leslie shapes and braids the eggy challah dough. Each day she bakes about 3 dozen loaves (of different varieties), available for sale at Beach Road.

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Slip Away to Chappy In six years, farmers Lily Walter and Collins Heavener have turned Slip Away Farm into a way of life— and into a well-loved and integral part of the Chappy community.

BY KATE TVELIA ATHEARN • PHOTOS BY JEANNA SHEPARD

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In the height of summer, when traf- Vineyard Land Bank and the Preserva- fic congests Edgartown’s narrow streets, tion Trust. Excited to find affordable and the wait for the 3-car ferry can take land and housing to rent, and to fill an almost an hour, getting to Chappaquid- agricultural void on the neighboring is- dick’s Slip Away Farm from the main land, the friends decided to make their island of Martha’s Vineyard is an exer- day jobs a lifestyle. cise in patience and persistence. But “It was a lot of change for a little is- customers of the small vegetable farm land,” remarks Lily, reflecting back on aren’t braving rush hour gridlock to pick carving vegetable fields and flower beds up their produce. They are Chappy resi- out of the gently rolling landscape her dents, grateful for the agricultural oasis new neighbors had been accustomed to on their remote, salt marsh-covered is- for generations. “But everyone was on land. Whether picking up a farm share, board, right from the start.” dropping veggie scraps in the commu- To their credit, the young farmers nity compost bin, or just looking for a did introduce themselves to their future friendly chat to break up the isolation of customers in an irresistibly innovative island living, they know Lily and Collins way. They weren’t able to move into the will be happy to help. Marshall Farm property that first year, Co-owners Lily Walter and Collins so they leased land in Katama and used Heavener became friends while work- a bike trailer to haul and deliver farm ing at Morning Glory Farm. In 2012, after shares to 10 enthusiasts of local agricul- a few years of honing their burgeoning ture on Chappy — their very first CSA Not only did they gain name recogni- TOP: Slip Away co-owner Lily Walter (with agricultural skills under the tutelage of (Community Supported Agriculture) tion from hauling the brightly painted baby Juna) says motherhood has helped the established Edgartown farm, they members. trailer all over the island, but they also her to appreciate the joy in slowing down. learned of a unique opportunity on They both agree that one season of had proven themselves to be dedicated ABOVE (LEFT TO RIGHT): Farm crew Juliet Smith, Peter Kirn (field manager), and Lucy Chappaquiddick. Applications were be- bike delivery was plenty, but also that it to their mission. Leopold join farm co-owner Collins Heav- ing accepted for tenant farmers on the was worth the mosquito bites and sun Six years later, Slip Away Farm is an ener in a midday break. historic Marshall Farm, a conservation stroke, and digging the trailer tires out integral part of the Chappaquiddick property owned jointly by the Martha’s of the soft sandy back roads of Chappy. community. The tidy wooden farm stand THE VINE · Page 11 12

building was once Chappy’s one-room Collins believes that working hard is the schoolhouse. Now its chalkboard adver- only way to express his gratitude for the tises seasonal fresh vegetables, and the community that has embraced them, and front porch overflows with piles of ruby the organizations that had the foresight red beets, golden patty pan squash, and to acquire this land—and that now allow pearly onion bunches. him to farm it like his own. With a steady, organic evolution, the Lily has moved out of the farmhouse farm has expanded its acreage to ac- and lives nearby with her husband commodate their growing business. In and their 6-month old daughter, Juna. addition to their weekly CSA distribu- Though not technically on the payroll, tion, the farm stand is open to the public Juna is the farm stand’s unofficial greet- two days a week, and Lily and Collins are er, her sweet smile and clear blue eyes vendors and managers at the West Tis- even more popular than the vine-rip- bury Farmer’s Market. Three employees ened tomatoes. Lily admits that farming work the fields and farm stand with un- with a baby strapped to her back is hard yielding cheerfulness: field manager Pe- at times, but credits her amazing crew, ter Kirn, Juliet Smith, and Collins’s wife, and Juna’s naturally cheerful disposition, Lucy Leopold. for easing her workload immeasurably. As the farm became more established, Naturally independent and hard work- Collins has been able to devote more ing, she says motherhood has taught her cused on maintaining that same personal TOP LEFT: A massive hoop house helps the time to his furniture company, Marshall the importance of accepting help and the service that they provided their ten origi- Slip Away crew get a jump on the season. Farm Wood-Works. He builds custom joy in slowing down. Juna lets her know nal customers. They make themselves TOP RIGHT: CSA customers can pick some pieces by hand in the basement of the when it’s time to eat or rest in the shade available on pickup days to answer ques- of their own flowers MIDDLE LEFT: The farm's original delivery cart from season 1. farmhouse, where he and Lucy still live. for a spirited game of peek-a-boo. tions and discuss recipe ideas. They even MIDDLE RIGHT: Pickup day. ABOVE: The Just hearing about all the work he does The CSA has grown to serve over 60 host a number of outdoor pizza nights for lending library in the old schoolhouse. is exhausting for a normal person. But families, but Lily and Collins are still fo- their members throughout the season. Page 12 · THE VINE 13

TOP: Six years ago, Slip Away Farm leased the former Marshall Farm, a conservation property which is jointly owned by the Pres- ervation Trust and the Martha's Vineyard Land Bank. RIGHT: Co-owner Collins Heav- ener also has a growing wood-working business called Marshall Farm Wood-Works.

It’s a natural collaboration—agriculture and preservation. Farmers have a place to farm and the land remains unde- veloped, its history coming alive in the hands of a new generation of humble, in- dustrious Yankees. Not only is the community supporting their agriculture, but their agriculture is supporting the community right back — nourishing them with organic produce and homegrown pizza, providing a place to gather and exchange stories and ideas, and to wit- ness a way of life that in many areas is in danger of slowly slipping away.

Kate Tvelia Athearn is a writer and edu- cator based in West Tisbury, where she lives on a small farm with her husband and two teenage sons. THE VINE · Page 13 14

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While working at the Woods Hole Research Center in Falmouth and visiting the Island frequently, Eunice Youmans dreamed of working here. Last year, the dream became reality. Fit to FARM

As General Manager of The Trustees of Reservations’ properties on the Islands—and a new resident of Chappy— Eunice Youmans has carved out an ideal outdoor life for herself and her children.

BY JOYCE WAGNER • PHOTOS BY JEANNA SHEPARD

Eunice Youmans dreamed herself to be. “I went to a conference in Iceland,” General Manager of The Trustees of The daughter of a social worker and Martha’s Vineyard. “I willed this job into she recalls. “I had never been to Iceland Reservations properties on the Islands. an Episcopal priest who met at the civil being,” she says with a laugh. Living in before. It was grey, it was moody, it was These include seven sites on the Vine- rights marches in Birmingham, Alabama, Falmouth and working for the Woods pastoral—and had the sea at the same yard: the FARM Institute, Cape Poge Eunice grew up in New Jersey but de- Hole Research Center as Director of Ex- time. I felt so at home in the landscape Wildlife Refuge, Long Point Wildlife veloped her love of the outdoors at her ternal Affairs, she and her three children and I realized it was just like the Cape, Refuge, Menemsha Hills, Mytoi, Nor- grandparents’ farm in Alabama and her often visited the Island. and even more like Martha’s Vineyard.” ton Point Beach, and, ironically, Wasque love of culture at her other grandpar- “We’d come over and bike, we’d go Two-and-a-half years ago, she and her Point. She also oversees one large prop- ents’ home in New York City. She re- to the beaches and just relax here,” she family were enjoying the peaceful vista erty, Coskata-Coatue Wildlife Refuge, on ceived a bachelor’s degree in religion at said. at Wasque Point and she said aloud, “If Nantucket. Her office, a small, sparsely the University of Georgia and a Masters But even though Eunice had spent a only I could find a really meaningful furnished near-cubbyhole, shares space in Islamic Studies from Vanderbilt Uni- lot of time on the Island, it took a trip job here…” Six months later a recruiter with what will soon be a completely versity. She spent the next several years to a much larger island for her to realize called with an opportunity. renovated teaching kitchen at the FARM consulting and working at think tanks at the Vineyard was where she wanted to Since November, Eunice has been Institute. Vanderbilt and in Washington, D.C., be- Page 16 · THE VINE 17

fore settling in Falmouth, and now Chap- paquiddick. Of all her charges for the Trustees, the FARM Institute seems to be her favorite — and probably the most time consum- ing. “The farm is what I’m most intimate- ly involved in,” she says. “I probably spend forty percent of my time on it.” She rattles off a long list of responsibilities: account- ing, meat sales, events, summer camp, overseeing the kitchen renovation, strate- gic planning for the future and more. “It needs to be a real farm,” she explains, “Not a one-dimensional image of a farm.” The primary goal of the FARM In- stitute is education, but the farm itself, unlike the summer camp, is not self-supporting. “It’s an expensive operation,” she says. “We need to figure out how to do this better.” Another aspect of her work on the Islands is to liase with other organizations with like-minded goals—and with neighbors of the farm. “A lot of staff and farm trucks come down our road,” she says. “They create dust and traffic. We try to be as mindful as we can. But it’s a problem for some people.” of how these pieces connect. I think I’m the winter, it’s the perfect little nest,” she TOP LEFT: While Eunice oversees seven “And there’s manure,” she says with a pointed in the right direction.” claims. Speaking of last winter’s freeze properties on Martha's Vineyard and one on chuckle. “Sometimes the wind blows the Despite the demands of the job, Eu- and snowfall, she recalls, “We were Nantucket, she devotes about 40 percent of her time to the FARM Institute, where her of- wrong way. Who wants to smell manure nice still makes spending outdoor time socked in, the ferries weren’t running fice is. TOP RIGHT AND ABOVE: "It has to in his living room?” with her kids—18-year-old Isabella, for four days, and I loved it. I don’t know But the farm is a critical part of VIne- be a real working farm," Eunice says of the 15-year-old Madeleine, and 11-year-old why everyone can’t live on Chappy.” FARM Institute, "Not just a one-dimensional yard history. It’s located on the historic Eli—a big priority. “We ride bikes, swim, Her son Eli seems to agree. “He thinks image of a farm." But "it's an expensive op- Katama Farm, dating back to the early paddleboard, kayak. I get them to come I’m the best mother ever for moving him eration," she notes. Farm tours and special 1900s. In the late 1970s, it was saved from with me on as many adventures as I can.” here,” she explains. “He’s like Tom Saw- events are now more frequent on the farm. becoming a subdivision and preserved “And,” she adds, “I’m renovating my yer. There’s lots of freedom. It’s like the as farmland. “I have yet to meet anyone who’s un- house.” Her home on Chappaquiddick, 1940’s on Chappy. Everyone’s paying at- happy that the farm is here,” says Eunice. the Pole House, is famously supported tention. If he’s riding his bicycle without Being somewhat new at the job and re- by telephone poles. “When I have a bad his helmet, I hear about it.” sponsible for so much, Eunice needs to day, I just rip stuff out.” When she bought be focused and organized. “It’s like drink- it in December, it hadn’t been updated Joyce Wagner is a freelance writer and ing from a fire hose,” she jokes. “You’re since 1973. historical novelist enjoying dual citizen- just trying to understand the pieces Eunice is so taken with Chappy that ship with Martha’s Vineyard and Gulf- separately. Now I have a blurry image even the winters don’t bother her. “In port, Fla. THE VINE · Page 17 18

Making it Local

In her fifth year of Farm.Field.Sea, Nevette Previd is introducing two new adventures to showcase local artisans and farmers.

BY LOUISA HUFSTADER • PHOTOS BY JEANNA SHEPARD

Friendly pirates and oyster farmers, Nevette says: “I just constantly want local chefs and Martha’s Vineyard art- to keep evolving.” In her first year, she ists are just some of the people you may partnered with chef Chris Fischer; since meet on a food adventure with Farm. then, her scope has continued to widen Field.Sea. this season. and now includes farmers, fishermen, “Bringing people to the source of artists and musicians. their food is my goal. There are so many In 2016, a series of Farm.Field.Sea amazing and talented producers on this evenings called Gather paired locally- Island,” says Nevette Previd of Vineyard sourced dinners with sustainability-ori- Haven, who began producing these farm- ented speakers. Last year, among other to-table dining events five years ago. events, Nevette teamed up with Morn- Every season has been different, ing Glory Farm flower manager Robyn Page 18 · THE VINE 19

FACING PAGE: Inside the greenhouse at IGI's Farm Hub, the table was set for 60 at the first July Makers Table event, while featured artist Alexis Rusillo captured the surrounding farmland. TOP: For this event, guest chef Jimmy Alvarado from Isola restaurant joined chef Spring Sheldon, who is working with Nevette Previd this year on all the Makers' Table events. MIDDLE: Nevette Previd welcomes guests to the table, after a tour of the Farm Hub by director Matthew Dix. BOTTOM: Musician Anthony Esposito plays original compositions on his guitar for the crowd.

Hosey Athearn for flower tours and ingredients while Island artists perform workshops at the Edgartown farm. and paint. The themes may change from year to For the Maker’s Table dinners, Nevette year, but Nevette’s underlying mission partners with Island chef Spring Sheldon remains the same: to connect people as well as guest chefs, fishermen, farm- with local food and the Islanders who ers, visual artists and musicians. There’s produce and prepare it. also an educational element, such as a This summer, Nevette is introducing tour or talk. two new concepts. The first takes the July’s first Maker’s Table took place in farm-to-table approach offshore with the greenhouse of the nonprofit Island Oysters & Aquaculture tours, where the Grown Farm Hub on Stoney Hill Road in farm is the ocean and the table is on the Vineyard Haven. A long stretch of seven deck of a pirate ship (see p. 21). tables held places for more than 60 din- The second concept is a series of ers, who began the evening with passed weekly pop-up dinners called Makers hors d’oeuvres and a fruit-laden white Table at locations around the Vineyard, sangria. where local chefs prepare Island-grown Inside the airy greenhouse, surround- THE VINE · Page 19 20

ed by banks of hydroponic crops—blood my said, as he visited with each of more sorrel, basil and strawberries among than 60 guests at the table). them—Island musician Anthony Es- “It’s a field trip and a dinner, both in posito performed original compositions one. I love it,” said Bob LaRoche of West- on guitar. Outside, as the sun descended, ford, who with his wife Charlene had re- artist Alexis Russillo chatted with guests ceived a gift of tickets to the evening. as she painted an Impressionist plein air “And you’ve got the arts in there as landscape of the fields and trees. well,” added Charlene. Both agreed Before the dinner bell rang, guests they’d like to do another Makers Table, also had two opportunities to tour the with other couples they know—“make a Farm Hub greenhouses with director full evening of it,” Bob said. Matthew Dix and manager Taz Arm- Makers Table dinner events begin at 6 strong. p.m. each Tuesday night in August, with For the meal itself, chef Spring part- the exception of August 7. That week’s nered with Isola chef Jimmy Alvarado dinner will take place August 9, again at to create a locavore feast. Many of the the Farm Hub. ingredients came directly from the Other Makers Table locations include Farm Hub greenhouses—vegetables, of Beetlebung Farm (August 14), the Tis- course, but also the main course: trout bury Spring building (August 21) and TOP AND MIDDLE: As the evening wound raised in vats just steps from the dining the Yard in Chilmark (August 28). De- down, a pink sky over the farm fields turned table. to azure as guests enjoyed a feast that tails and ticket information are posted at included vegetables and trout harvested The dinner also highlighted other farmfieldsea.com/makerstable. producers including North Tabor Farm, from the greenhouse itself. RIGHT: White Sangria laden with fruit was the evening's whose hakurei turnips spiced up the sal- featured cocktail. ad, and Martha’s Vineyard Mycological, which provided shiitakes for a luscious Louisa Hufstader is an Edgartown-based farro risotto (“I call it farrotto,” chef Jim- freelance writer. Page 20 · THE VINE 21

Jeanna Shepard

:Oysters Ahoy A Farm.Field.Sea. adventure on the water

Aboard the Sea Gypsy out of Oak the group: “They’re eating the food Bluffs, floating home of Pirate Ad- that is already present. There are no ventures Martha’s Vineyard, Island food additives, no fresh water need- shellfish expert Rick Karney pro- ed. Basically it's the most sustainable vides an informative show-and-tell protein you can buy.” about local bivalves—including a Then Greg and Dan come aboard look at the ring of blue eyes a scallop with a sack of their freshly-harvested hides inside its shell. oysters and continue the conversa- As passengers cluster around Rick, tion while shucking and sharing the the Sea Gypsy’s smiling Capt’n Flint plump and briny treats. Only sea (Vineyarder Jeremiah McCarthy) pi- birds get their shellfish fresher. lots his 40-foot vessel to the waters A sumptuous tray of cheese, of Vineyard Sound off Eastville. crackers and crudités rounds out the This is Farm.Field.Sea’s Oyster waterborne meal, with soft drinks and Aquaculture Tour, and this is and light adult beverages: rosé wine also New England’s only open-sea and fresh Bad Martha beers. oyster farm, Cottage City Oysters. As the sun sets, the Sea Gypsy The two young men coming along- makes its way back to Oak Bluffs side in a workboat are oyster farm- Harbor after an approximately two- ers Dan and Greg Martino. Tying up hour cruise. to the idling Sea Gypsy, the Martino Farm.Field.Sea’s Oyster and Aqua- brothers talk with passengers about culture tours take place Thursday growing fresh oysters in open water evenings in August, with the excep- and why it’s good for the planet. tion of August 9. That week’s tour Oysters are filter feeders that will take place August 8. Tickets are draw their nutrition from the seawa- available at farmfieldsea.com ter around them, Greg Martino tells —Louisa Hufstader.

Mark Alan Lovewell

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INSTA ISLAND

The Farm Life

Today we have more than 30 commercial farms producing Farm / fahrm/ noun food on the Island–and many more that raise horses or 1. a tract of land, usually with a house, alpacas, flowers or Christmas trees. eW have dozens of barn, silo, etc., on which crops and often farm stands and a couple farm stores, as well as a robust livestock are raised for livelihood farmers' market. We even have farm tours (visit the FARM 2. Any of dozens of Vineyard fields, land- Institute, Grey Barn and Farm, and IGI's Farm Hub). marks, and historical properties that carry on the Island's agrarian traditions. @mvyphoto But we can never take our farms for granted; for farmers, a LARRY GLICK full-time living is elusive—most have second (or first) jobs. If you enjoy fresh food and want to support a strong local economy, make a stop at a farm stand or market today.

In the next issue of the Vine, we’ll be featuring Instagram photos of Island homes.

Tag your photos: #theVineMV #vineyardgazette @vineyardgazette or email [email protected]

@thegreybarnchilmark THE GREY BARN AND FARM

Mermaid Farm @tmillervineyard

@jeannashepardphotography TINA MILLER JEANNA SHEPARD

THE VINE · Page 23 24 Edgartown Harbor Edgartown YOUR VISIT STARTS HERE.

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BY THE NUMBERS On the Table BY NICOLE GRACE MERCIER TO THE MARKET! At the West Tis- 435 ANGLERS ILLUSTRATIONS BY CHRIS BURRELL bury Farmers’ Market, two-thirds of the booths must be farms, 40 VENDORS while the other one-third is made 140 FISH up of what market co-manager Collins Heavener says are “val- 1,200 PATRONS ue-added companies.” 547 POUNDS BITES, SIPS AND FASHION. The annual a Taste of the Vineyard 2/3 FARMS event, to support the Vineyard Trust, featured 40 food and bev- erage vendors to a packed crowd of 1,200 patrons. 60 hives 3,000 pounds OH, HONEY. Island Bee Company FISHING FOR A CAUSE. At this has about 60 hives around the year’s Fluke for Luke charity Island and, in a good year, they fishing tournament, 435 anglers can produce up to 3,000 pounds weighed in 140 fish equalling of honey. about 547 pounds.

PAID FOR BY THE COMMITTEE TO ELECT GAIL BARMAKIAN • PO BOX 1734, OAK BLUFFS, MA 02557

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1 All these sounds and sights of water Are a symphony to me — A voice that still reminds me I’m adrift without the sea. – Conrad Neumann

Island of Martha’s Vineyard, seven miles off southeast Devoted to the interest of the six towns on the Island of coast of Massachusetts. Winter population, 16,535; in Martha’s Vineyard, viz.: Edgartown, Oak Bluffs, Tisbury summer, 105,624. Twenty miles from city of New Bedford, (Vineyard Haven), West Tisbury, Chilmark and Aquin- 80 miles from Boston and 150 miles from New York. nah. These, with Gosnold, constitute Dukes County.

Volume 172, Number 6. Established 1846. ©2017 Vineyard Gazette LLC. VINEYARD GAZETTE, MARTHA’S VINEYARD, MASS., FRIDAY, JUNE 30, 2017 Thirty-Four Pages (Three Sections). $1 a Copy. Naturally Hospital Faces Questions Cedar Tree On Board Governance, Neck Enjoys Half Century Community Relations By JULIA WELLS and MARY BRESLAUER By ALEX ELVIN Trustees of the Martha’s Vineyard of discussion about that,” said Alan On a clear morning this week, a pair Hospital this week reaffirmed their Brigish, a West Tisbury resident who of osprey circled above the pond at vote to fire chief executive officer Joe hosted a meeting of the citizens group Cedar Tree Neck Sanctuary, while a Woodin, reiterated their intention to at his home Tuesday night group of cormorants splashed loudly stay mum about the details and said it Speaking to the Gazette on Wednes- in the water below. On the other side is time to move on for the sake of the day, Mr. Sweet said Partners played a of a barrier beach, waves crashed onto Island community. role in the ouster of the CEO. “When an empty shore where glacial erratics Enterprising. Meanwhile, a concerned citizens it comes to this big a decision, part formed a kind of zen garden hidden by group formed in response to Mr. Wood- of what’s involved in being an affiliate a steep bluff. in’s ouster vowed to press for more is that both Partners and the Island Fifty years after its creation, the north community involvement and transpar- board must agree that it’s the right shore sanctuary in West Tisbury re- ency about how the hospital makes its thing to do. In this case we were shoul- mains one of the largest and most decisions. der to shoulder . . . the board wasn’t loved natural landscapes on the Island. In a statement issued late last Sat- alone, this was a joint decision.” He Its vast acreage encompasses barrier urday, hospital trustees said the board continued: beach, broad green bluffs, high hillsides, “unanimously stands by its decision . . “Until this happened, I think every- meadows and bogs. A 10-minute drive . We know that our silence has caused one forgot we are part of a bigger in- from the nearest main road makes it the community great distress, but we stitution . . . . and in many ways this is something of a hidden gem on the believe, in the case of an individual’s an assurance that you have neither the Island. employment, there is a courtesy of CEO or a board that is going rogue or “It established a footprint on which privacy.” running roughshod over the hospital.” we have built for the past 50 years,” The statement followed a lengthy At the urging of the citizens group, said Adam Moore, executive director board meeting the same day. Reached Mr. Sweet said trustees have agreed of the Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation, a by telephone this week, longtime board to form a community advisory board vanguard of the Vineyard conservation chairman Timothy Sweet said the meet- and to add a person from the Island movement since the 1950s. The founda- ing lasted for “a number of hours” and community to the hospital governance tion has become the leading landholder had been attended by all 15 hospital committee. on the Island, with 1,941 acres in conser- trustees, four of whom are appointed He also said trustees have decided vation from Aquinnah to Chappaquid- by Massachusetts General Hospital, to hire an outside consultant to review dick. the arm of Partners Health Care that hospital governance practices. Henry Beetle Hough, the former has owned the Vineyard hospital for No time frame has been set for longtime publisher andAward-winning. editor of the the past decade. Interim CEO Timothy the changes. “We are working on it,” Gazette, had led a public campaign in Walsh and the hospital’s chief medical Mr. Sweet said. “Part of the [Saturday 1967 to raise money to purchase the land officer, Dr. Pieter Pil are also among the board] meeting was a reflection back from the Daggett family and transfer it trustees. on the process . . . . and we thought this to the Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation, Questions about board governance, particular process didn’t go very well which he had founded in 1959. At the community relations and the relation- and that we should take advantage of time, he billed the purchase as the ship of the Island’s only hospital to its the opportunity to reach out and have among most significant conservation parent company have come quickly to someone look over our governance,” he efforts on the Island to date. “The alter- the fore since the sudden firing of Mr. added. native is ‘development,’ which continu- Woodin early this month after just 13 Experts in board governance inter- ing blindly, may leave too little of the months on the job. viewed by the Gazette cited term limits traditional and beloved Vineyard,” Mr. Town Is New Owner “Are we a community hospital? Are for board members as one important Hough wrote in a 1967 editorial. All Down the Line, It’s Independence Day we a rural hospital? There was a lot To Page Seven Shortly after the purchase, he con- Of Yellow House tributed another 70 acres of family By VIVIAN EWING land that abutted the original property. Edgartown Selectmen Sign Order Over the years, additional land holdings In the Edgartown courthouse early Of Taking to Pay Halls $3 Million and conservation restrictions have ex- one morning this week, Joseph E. Sol- For Rundown Main Street Property panded the sanctuary to include about litto Jr. took his time getting to his desk. 400 acres. He’s having a little problem with his By SARA BROWN Since the founding of Sheriff’s knee, but won’t stop him from leading the annual Fourth of July parade next New benches, bike racks, and plant- Meadow in 1958, Martha’s Vineyard ers waiting for flowers went up on the has become a world leader in conserva- Tuesday. “I’ll drag myself out there if I have to,” he joked. grounds of the Yellow House on Edgar- tion, with a several nonprofits working town’s Main street Thursday morning together with towns, landowners and Independent. Mr. Sollitto is superior court clerk as new owners — the town of Edgar- others to preserve the Island’s natural and parade grand marshal. He took over four years ago from former grand town —prepared the property for the environment. More than 20,000 acres, marshal Fred B. Morgan Jr., whom he Fourth of July weekend. or about 40 per cent of the Island, is still considers to be in charge. “Ted will On Monday the town formally took now conserved in one form or another. be at the front, riding in a vehicle. I’ll be the Yellow House by eminent domain, “There is strength in diversity,” said marching right behind him,” Mr. Sollitto bringing an apparent end to several Brendan O’Neill, executive director of said. years of discussion and legal wrangling the Vineyard Conservation Society, an- With two veterans at the helm, (Mr. about the fate of the rundown home. other early pioneer in the conservation Morgan of the Air Force and Mr. Sollitto All three selectmen signed the order movement. “And the diversity of organi- of the Marine Corps) it’s no surprise of taking, including a $3 million pay- zations working in this environmental that the parade will start promptly at ment to the owners, following a brief sector on Martha’s Vineyard is really 5 p.m. “As soon as the clock strikes the executive session Monday with town something to celebrate.” As with Sher- Mark Lovewell counsel Ronald H. Rappaport. fifth chime, we’re stepping off,” Mr. Jeanna Shepard iff’s Meadow, VCS holds large tracts of Sollitto said. He estimated that there Edgartown is the place for the parade and fireworks. “The time has come,” selectman Mar- District court is processing hundreds of cases involving unlicensed drivers. land on the Island. But it also serves as will be about 25,000 people watching garet Serpa said. To Page Six the procession and about 1,000 people said. He doesn’t sit around until the as a conductor for the Boys’ Club’s The town acquired the deed to the marching. For all those marching, get- Fourth, however. The parade creeps into Drum and Bugle Corps and then with property on Tuesday morning, when ting to the pre-parade lineup at the Ed- his mind in March and real planning the Marine Corps, Mr. Sollitto has only the Registry of Deeds opened. By 10 Unlicensed Driving Is Growing gartown School by no later than 4 p.m. begins in May. On Monday, he went watched the parade once. What sur- a.m. Walter Morrison was taking down Island’s allows for a punctual start, Mr. Sollitto to the selectmen’s meeting to formally prised him most? “All the gaps between a run-down white picket fence with a best selection and said. invite them to participate in the parade. the floats,” he said. chainsaw and Vance Lock and Key was Concern Among Immigrants best prices He also praised Edgartown town ad- The selectmen, naturally, are always Police on bicycles will help keep the at work changing the locks on the front By JOHN H. KENNEDY ministrator Kristy Rose for handling the involved. Among other things they will parade shipshape. “We want to keep it door. Pieces of the fence surrounded the 508-693-0236 details. “My name goes in the paper but award a $1,000 prize for the best float. moving and keep it unified,” Mr. Sollitto house as onlookers watched the action It can be risky business when the criminal court at the Edgartown court- Island-Wide Delivery! Downtown Oak Bluffs she does all the legwork,” Mr. Sollitto While he’s marched since 1972, first said. Another type of unity he hopes for and police directed summer traffic on Island’s undocumented residents get house on the first Thursday of each is in the theme. “Anybody who wants Main street. behind the wheel and drive. To go to month, when interpreters are made to participate should participate. But The Yellow House had been owned the doctor. To attend church services. available for defendants. A common we want a patriotic theme,” said Mr. in trust by the Hall family. Town resi- Or just to get to work. charge is operating a vehicle without a Sollitto. “It’s the Fourth of July.” dents voted at town meeting and town There’s always the anxiety shared license. The parade route starts at the Edgar- election to either take the home by by many of them, prohibited by state According to records provided by the Cabinetry, Counters, Plumbing & Lighting town School, winds down Main street, eminent domain or purchase the house, law from obtaining a driver’s license Edgartown district court clerk’s office, because they lack a Social Security nearly half of those cases processed The source for islandTo Page Ten newsTo Page Ten since 1846. “How to Work with a Contractor, number or other appropriate documen- from March 2016 through this past Designer, Architect” tation, that they’ll get pulled over and March involved defendants who faced # J. P. URANKER WOODCARVER # arrested. a charge of driving illegally, usually in Seminar   Make no mistake: many are taking the JULY FOURTH THE TRADITION addition to other motor vehicle charges. OF HANDCARVED risk anyway. Exhibit A is the stream of Sunday, July 9 , Noon -1 The Vineyard Gazette office will be closed EAGLES CONTINUES men and women who are processed in To Page Seven on Tuesday, July 4th. TODAY rsvp: 774 253 3828 The office will reopen on Wednesday, (508) 693-5871 Limited Space | No Fee July 5th at the usual time.   # WWW.JPUWOODCARVER.COM # See the Edgartown Fireworks My Island Bartender on

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