A Small Farm Grows on Chappy
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111 PRSRT STD Local ECRWSS Postal Customer U.S. POSTAGE PAID EDDM RETAIL FREE VINEYARD GAZETTE MEDIA GROUP | AUGUST 2018 SLIP AWAY A small farm grows on Chappy Making it Local: Farm.Field.Sea’s Pop-up dinners & tours The Bread Baker of Beach Road Fit to FARM: Eunice Youmans 2 Page 2 · THE VINE 3 THE VINE · Page 3 4 CONTENTS, AUGUST 2018 Departments 4 Editor’s Note Features 5 On the Rock 8 Vine and Dine 10 Slip Away to Chappy The Baker of Beach Road In six years, farmers Lily Walter and 23 Insta Island Collins Heavener have grown Slip Away Farm into an integral and well- The Farm Life loved part of the Chappy community. 24 By the Numbers BY KATE TVELIA ATHEARN At the Table 16 Fit to FARM Eunice Youmans, general manager of the Trustees of Reservations proper- ties on the islands, approaches life and work on the Vineyard with gusto. BY JOYCE WAGNER Cover photo: At Slip Away Farm, left to 18 Making it Local right: Lucy Leopold, co-owner Collins In her fifth year of Farm.Field.Sea., Heavener, co-owner Lily Walter (with Nevette Previd adds two new events. Juna), Juliet Smith and Peter Kirn. Photo BY LOUISA HUFSTADER by Jeanna Shepard From the Editor THE VINE Something from Nothing Vineyard Gazette Media Group unny how things work. This issue of the Vine is ostensibly about the food F EDITOR Susie Middleton and farming community on the Island. (It is the season, after all.) But what ASSOCIATE EDITOR Nicole Grace Mercier quickly becomes evident when reading the stories is how much the indepen- CONTRIBUTORS Noah Asimow, Kate Tvelia Athearn, Chris Burrell, Katherine dent, entrepreneurial spirit is alive and Gianni, Louisa Hufstader, Mark Alan well around here—and how much that Lovewell, Jeanna Shepard, Joyce Wagner relentless energy contributes to success PUBLISHER Jane Seagrave on the Island. Nevette Previd (p. 18) started an agri- BUSINESS MANAGER Sarah Gifford tourism business (the first of its kind on DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING the Island) and now is in her fifth year. Skip Finley | [email protected] Lily Walter and Collins Heavener (p. 10) SALES TEAM Frederica Carpenter, Gary took a blank slate in Chappy and turned Cook, Amy Kurth, Garrett Burt it into Slip Away Farm, now in its sixth DESIGN PRODUCTION Emily Hanson year. There are three new farming ven- AD PRODUCTION Jane McTeigue, Jared tures at the West Tisbury Farmers' Mar- Maciel, McKinley Sanders ket—as well as a chef's crêpe trailer (p. 5). Both Eunice Youmans (p. 16) and Les- Copyright 2018 by the Vineyard Gazette Media Group. No part of this publication lie Hewson (p. 8) are pushing their jobs may be reproduced without the written beyond their traditional descriptions. permission of the publisher. At the same time, each of these ener- getic Islanders has gotten a start or a To subscribe to the Vineyard Gazette, boost from Island organizations, other visit vineyardgazette.com/subscribe. businesses or supportive community members. It seems if you build it – with a Vineyard Gazette Media Group little help from your Island friends – they P.O. Box 66, 34 So. Summer Street, will come. Edgartown, MA 02539 —Susie Middleton [email protected] | 508-627-4311 Page 4 · THE VINE 5 ON THE ROCK Shop Small Island entrepreneurs: good taste, great design AT THE MARKET Vineyard Hospital, she’s fantasized about farming her whole life. The duo started Four to follow farming last October, and have a healthy array of vegetables and edible flowers at The West Tisbury Farmers’ Market is their booth. excited to welcome four new booths to The Wednesday market also has a new their Wednesday lineup this year. edible fungi operation. Martha’s Vine- At one end of the market is Milkweed yard Mushrooms is run by mother-son Farm from Chilmark. Milkweed took duo Kathryn and Tain Leonard-Peck. The over Quanaimes Gardens and is run by West Tisbury farm offers a variety of arti- its founder, former Michigander Mallory sanal mushrooms, handmade salves, and Watts, and her friend Jackie Solomito. even tubes of mushroom-based lip balm. The pair met playing ice hockey at Man- Rounding out the quartet of new hattanville College and kept in touch. vendors is The Miller’s Wife Sweet and Now they’re working hard on turning Savory Crêpes trailer. Chef and former the once-grassy Chilmark fields into fer- food writer Kay Renschler (who also tile land. Although Jackie doesn’t have an happens to be the wife of Glenn Rob- extensive farming background, Mallory erts, the founder of Anson Mills) offers has worked at Quanaimes Gardens since both savory crêpes (rustic buckwheat 2013. with bluefish salmon is one option) and Also new to the Wednesday market is sweet variations (Strawberry Rhubarb Milkweed’s Chilmark compatriot, Loon and Crushed Coconut meringue sounds Farm. The couple who own Loon Farm, amazing). Catch Kay, Glenn and crew Lauren and David Ginsberg, moved to with their little red trailer (right), along the Vineyard from Southern California with the other three new booths, every five years ago. While Lauren (pictured in Wednesday at the Grange Hall from 9 gray shirt with her friend Gabriella Ca- a.m. to noon through August 29. milleri) works as an internist at Martha’s —Noah Asimow Linda Alley photos THE SNACK The chipotle adds an unexpected kick. Nuts in the news “On a spicy scale I would rate the heat a six out of ten,” Anne said. Her daughter Anne Zenker of Martha’s Vineyard Nuts Izzy Mackell, who helps roast the nuts has turned her passion for a snack food and promote the business on social me- into a full-blown company. Last fall she dia, concurred. began selling her nut mix — a trifecta of Once the nuts are dressed in the sea- savory, spicy, and sweet — to grocers all soning, Anne roasts them for four and a across the Island. From Cronig’s Market half minutes at 350 degrees, tossing them to Morning Glory Farm to Menemsha at the halfway point. She spends eight to Market, the containers sit ready for Is- ten hours per week roasting at The Lar- landers and tourists alike to enjoy. der in Vineyard Haven and goes through “This is something I’ve made for my approximately three to four pounds of friends and family for a long time,” Anne rosemary in the process. explained. It was with their support that she began her quest to share her medley “Most people say they’ve never had with the rest of the world. anything like them before,” Anne said. “And a lot of people tell me they’re ad- The mix contains four different nut va- dicting.” rieties: cashews, walnuts, pecans, and al- monds. While the cashews dominate the The entrepreneur says she hopes to mix, each nut gets coated in an equally expand her business off-Island in the hearty layer of Anne’s signature season- coming months. The new locales? Ski ing, or “gravy.” The combination of ingre- resorts across the country. But for now, dients works together to give her nuts the nut connoisseurs can rely on picking up perfect flavor. The recipe is simple. a container before heading to their favor- ite Vineyard beach. “I use a mix of Vermont maple syrup, brown sugar, fresh orange juice, orange For more information on Martha’s zest, rosemary, and chipotle spice,” Anne Vineyard Nuts visit mvnuts.com. Izzy Mackell explained. —Katherine Gianni THE VINE · Page 5 6 DAZZLE leather-lined footwear handmade from vintage Uzbek caftans and quilts. Handmade in Edgartown For the bedroom, Kissmet has silk-on- silk embroidered Uzbek Suzani coverlets Tucked away in Edgartown’s Nevin and shams. The jewelry case highlights Square on Winter Street, Kissmet catches traditional designs with crystals and your eye with a window full of gleaming, semiprecious stones. Owners Recep jewel-toned Ottoman hanging lamps. The Dinli and Vicki Carew will gladly make shop itself is an orderly trove of hand- you a cup of Turkish tea or coffee while spun rugs, Turkish towels, kilim handbags you shop. and other accessories, as well as elegant —Louisa Hufstader Louisa Hufstader photos Page 6 · THE VINE 7 Paid for by the committee to elect Daphne DeVries • PO Box 2234, Edgartown, MA 02539 THE VINE · Page 7 8 VINE & DINE In the early morning hours before the restaurant opens, Leslie Hewson is in the kitchen of Beach Road baking sourdough loaves, foccacia (above), brioche, and challah (right). The Baker of Beach Road “I really enjoy bragging about that just two of the elements Leslie con- part,” Leslie says. “It can’t help but be lo- siders when she arrives at the bakery cal.” around 5:30 a.m. The temperature of the Leslie Hewson’s locally grown starter fuels the French- flour and the water and even the friction style sourdough loaves she bakes for Beach Road and A lifelong cook and former restaura- teur, Leslie learned to make artisan bread caused by the mixing machine all have to State Road Restaurants. from the famed Jeffrey Hamelman, with be taken into account. BY LOUISA HUFSTADER • PHOTOS BY JEANNA SHEPARD whom she studied at the King Arthur When it comes to ingredients, Les- Flour teaching facility in Vermont. lie is a firm believer in King Arthur un- bleached flour. We’re reaching peak locavore season on “Wild yeast—it’s very cool,” says Les- Despite having cooked in the restau- Martha’s Vineyard, where in August you lie, who bakes all the breads for sister rant business since her teens, “I never “Unbleached product is why the can assemble a complete meal of Island restaurant State Road in West Tisbury as thought I’d make bread, because it was bread inside looks the way it does: It is ingredients: corn, tomatoes, greens and well.