Brixham Harbour a Short Heritage Walk
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Banks David Photography: Brixham Harbour A short heritage walk New Fish Market complex Begin your walk at the New Fish Market complex. Behind the building now dominated by Rockfish is the quay where the modern fishing fleet is berthed. If you haven’t already done so, you can watch the fishermen at their work from a viewing platform a short walk along the quayside. Brixham as a settlement has a long history, stretching back at least to the Anglo–Saxon period and possibly beyond. Since the medieval period the town has been dominated by fishing. It is in this continuing tradition that the New Fish Market was constructed to replace its smaller 1971 predecessor. The new complex was opened by HRH Princess Royal in March 2011, and confirms Brixham’s position as one of the most important fishing ports in England. Now make your way along The Quay to begin your circuit of the picturesque inner harbour. The original Brixham harbour stretched all the way to where the Town Hall and Museum now stand. Creeks along what are now New Road and Bolton Street fed this harbour. Continue along The Quay past the outdoor seafood restaurant and ferry cabins until you see the Prince William monument. The Prince William monument is a modest‐sized granite obelisk. This Grade II listed monument was erected in 1823 to mark the spot where Prince William of Orange landed in England during the events of the Glorious Revolution of 1688. Inset within the monument is a paving stone, reputed to be the exact stone Prince William first set his feet upon as he disembarked! There is also a later plaque marking the tercentenary of the landing. Continue past the covered fish market and turn left in front of The Old Market House pub and restaurant. Before either the 1971 or current fish market complex existed, the simple covered area on the quayside was where the fish market was held. It is still regularly used for craft and other markets. On your left you will pass a replica of Sir Francis Drake’s ship, The Golden Hind, the vessel in which he circumnavigated the globe. The Golden Hind replica Sir Francis Drake is one of the most famous maritime figures in English history. A naval captain, pirate and explorer, he not only became the first man to circumnavigate the globe between 1577 and 1580, but he was also vice admiral of the English fleet that defeated the Spanish Armada in 1588. In Spain he is known as El Draque (The Dragon), and was infamous for his plundering of Spanish treasure ships. Continue walking along The Strand towards the statue of Prince William that overlooks the harbour. Statue of William of Orange The statue of William of Orange was erected in 1889 to celebrate the bicentennial of William's coronation. It is the second monument to commemorate the landing of the Dutch Prince during the Glorious Revolution of 1688. This highlights the importance of this key event in English and British history. The Glorious Revolution and the accession of William and Mary to the throne of England marked a profound change in the relationship between parliament and the monarch. It led to the establishment of the landmark Bill of Rights which is one of the major milestones on our nation’s journey to democracy. Follow the quayside along and then round to the left. Please be aware of vehicles in this area. Sometimes you will see boats of all shapes and sizes moored alongside for repairs. Carry on past the Prince William pub and shops until you reach the RNLI Lifeboat Station. The mineral Ochre is common in Brixham. It was an important resource during the sailing era as it was used to protect canvas from rot caused by the salt in sea water. It was boiled in great caldrons, together with tar, tallow and oak bark. It was the bark that gave its name to the places – barking yards ‐ where the hot mixture was painted on to the sails, which were then hung up to dry. This gave the old fishing boats their famous red sails. The ochre was also used to make waterproof paint, which was invented in Brixham in the mid‐19th century. It was the first substance in the world that could prevent cast iron from rusting. During the many wars our nation fought with France and her allies from the 17th Century until Napoleon’s final defeat in 1815, Torbay was a vital anchorage for the great wooden sailing ships of the Royal Navy. The bay had always been used by ships to shelter from storms in the Channel, and until the construction of the Breakwater at Plymouth Sound was completed, Torbay remained a key anchorage for the Channel Fleet. There could have been as many as twenty large Ships‐of‐the‐Line in the bay, and many smaller frigates, sloops, ketches and cutters. Napoleon himself was even a visitor to the bay, when he was brought here as a prisoner aboard HMS Bellerophon, before being sent into exile on the remote island of St Helena. Continue walking until you reach Kings Quay, and the recently installed statue Man and Boy by artist Elizabeth Haldley (see cover). The Georgian building that was until recently part of the former Coastguard station complex was originally part of a facility called King's Quay, which was where those huge sailing warships were re‐victualled (re‐supplied) with fruit, vegetables, meat and water. The water was supplied by a series of pipes running from a reservoir that was located approximately where the Town Hall stands today. Freshwater Cove and Oxon Cove on the other side of the harbour, give hints to this time when Brixham and the surrounding area was a vital cog in the logistical operations of the Royal Navy in the age of sail. Continue to walk round the harbour until you reach the heritage fleet pontoon. In the middle ages, Brixham was the largest fishing port in the south west of England. And while there is evidence for trawling going back to this period, it was probably in the 17th or 18th centuries that the design of the Brixham 'Smack' was gradually improved. The strength and seaworthiness of this distinctive vessel, either rigged as a single‐masted cutter or a gaff‐rigged ketch, was such that it became strong enough to carry a larger trawl net than other designs of boats, thus allowing the increased intensification of fishing. Brixham earned its name as the 'Mother of Deep‐Sea Fisheries'. Brixham's fishing boats helped to establish the fishing industries of Hull, Grimsby and Lowestoft. In the 1890s, there were about 300 sailing trawlers in Brixham, most individually owned, and crewed by 2 or 3 men and a boy apprentice. Several of these sailing trawlers have been preserved as part of Brixham's Heritage Fleet. Vessels such as Vigilance, Pilgrim and Provident might be seen moored on this pontoon, or perhaps you’ll see their billowing sails out in the bay. A trip can be taken on most of these vessels. Carry on past the Prince William pub and shops until you reach the RNLI Lifeboat Station. RNLI Lifeboat Station On the evening of the 10th January 1866 a storm blew up in the Channel and many sailing vessels sought shelter in Torbay as usual. During the night the wind changed direction and increased significantly in strength, creating a dangerous situation for sailing called a ‘lee‐shore’. This is where the wind is blowing a vessel towards land. Making headway against a strong wind is extremely difficult for a sail‐powered boat, creating the real possibility of being wrecked. There was no lifeboat in Torbay and so the lifeboat China was brought from Teignmouth by road to Torquay. China’s crew rescued 11 men, but at least 30 ships were wrecked and 70 people died in the storm that became known as the Great Gale. Subsequently, the RNLI was asked to provide a lifeboat at Brixham. This first lifeboat, powered by banks of oars, was paid for in the main by the citizens of Exeter, and so was named City of Exeter. The RNLI station in Torbay has saved many lives since 1866 and received numerous awards. Continue on towards the Breakwater, where your walk ends. Brixham Breakwater The breakwater that protects Brixham’s outer harbour was begun in 1846. Towards the light house at the end, there are the remains of an abandoned pier built by the Americans as part of D‐Day preparations. They also constructed the slipway and the concrete area inside the breakwater, down which tanks and other vehicles were embarked before the final departure at the end of May 1944 for the beaches of Normandy. Further research on local history Torre Abbey, TQ2 5JE 01803 293593 www.torre‐abbey.org.uk Since its foundation in 1196, Torre Abbey has witnessed, survived and even played a role in some epic moments of history. It hosts a permanent art collection, Learning Lab and interactive exhibits telling the entire history of the abbey. Brixham Heritage Museum, TQ5 8LZ 01803 856267 www.brixhamheritage.org.uk The Museum records, preserves and promotes the story of historic Brixham and its people with a host of exhibits, education programmes and archive resources. Torquay Museum, TQ1 1HG 01803 293975 www.torquaymuseum.org Find out about local wildlife, famous people and Torquay through the ages. The museum houses a variety of temporary exhibitions throughout the year. The Agatha Christie Memorial Room documents the history behind the famous crime writer.