White Flower Farm Plantsmen Since 1950

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DESIGNING YOUR GARDEN

White Flower Farm plantsmen since 1950 DESIGNING YOUR GARDEN The aim of this brochure is to help you select a site, size, and shape for a flower garden and then to fill it with a harmonious combination of plants. We present this process as a series of steps—seven in all—that takes you from the mere notion that you want a flower garden to a finished plan. If you already have a garden but are not satisfied with it, we suggest that you review the first four steps, then study Steps 5 through 7. When we say “flower garden” or “border” in this brochure, we mean an ornamental planting, one with well-defined edges and often (but not always) a backdrop of some sort—a house, a hedge, a wall, or a fence. You may be familiar with annual beds and perennial borders, but most gardeners (ourselves included) get greatest satisfaction from what are known as “mixed borders,” gardens that contain the gamut of plants— annuals, perennials, bulbs, shrubs, and small trees—for variety and a long season of interest. We want to emphasize at the outset that there is no single “right” way to make a garden. Most experienced gardeners follow guidelines similar to those we offer here, but others ignore them—sometimes to glorious effect. Your taste and desires are what matter, not what your neighbor is planting or what a gardening maga- zine says you should want. This brochure is meant to help you make choices, not to paralyze you with the fear that you’re not doing things just so. Have fun, and if fun happens to coincide with “rules” of design, fine. If not, that’s fine, too.

© 2016 White Flower Farm, Litchfield, Connecticut 06759-0050 whiteflowerfarm.com 1 1. Think about what you want. ❁ Where will a garden provide the most The first step in designing a garden is to decide pleasure? If you plant a garden in order to exactly what sort of garden you want. You’re enjoy it, then you should probably put it where unlikely to realize your dream if you’re not sure you spend time outdoors or where you pass what your dream is. Do you want to decorate often—near the back terrace, along the drive- a small square by the front steps with a few way, at the foot of the front steps, or by the annuals, or do you long instead for a sweeping swimming pool. You’ll appreciate your garden border bursting with perennials? When do even more if you can see it from inside the you want your garden to look its best? Will a house. Rinsing dishes and tapping away at the brief but spectacular spring or summer show computer seem less like drudgery when you suffice, or do you want a garden that looks can pause to gaze out the window at bright attractive from early spring until hard frost? flowers swaying in the breeze. How much time, energy, and money are you CHOOSING A prepared to devote to the task of planting and LOCATION FOR caring for a garden? Do you want a garden A FLOWER that you can dig and plant in an afternoon and GARDEN that requires little effort to maintain, or do you Put your garden where prefer a more ambitious project, a garden that you can see and enjoy will usurp at least a weekend at planting time it, from both indoors and require regular attention throughout the and out. Provide a growing season? background such as 2. Choose a location for your garden. a fence or a hedge, and make sure the If you don’t already have a place in mind for garden is within reach your new garden (and even if you do), you of a hose. should walk your property and peer out your windows. Ask yourself the following questions as you look around you: ❁ Where is the nearest spigot? A garden ❁ Where does a garden “belong” in the also needs to be within reach of a hose. Even landscape? A flower garden is not a self-con- in climates where rainfall is abundant, dry tained unit. It’s a part of the landscape, just as spells are inevitable. If you can’t supply water a shade tree is, or a flowering Crabapple or when your plants require it, you risk the a bluestone patio, and as such it needs to be unpleasant prospect of watching them gasp in placed where it will fit in with its surroundings. summer’s heat. A border plopped into the lawn or stuck into a corner looks like an afterthought at best, a ❁ What sort of background will the border distraction at worst. A good design is wasted have? Think about the superb garden photos on a bad location. you see in books and magazines. In almost 2 whiteflowerfarm.com 3 every case, there is something standing behind but the number of plants that thrive in full THREE TYPES the exuberant floral display—a fence, a stone shade is relatively small (though quite a lot OF LIGHT or brick wall, a dark green hedge, or a mass of larger than most people believe). The point is shrubs or trees. These backgrounds prevent that if you dream of Iris and Peonies, Daylilies your eye from wandering all over the land- and Roses, Asters and Mums, you’ll need to put scape, allowing you to focus instead on the your border where it will receive ample sun- colorful plants in front of you. shine. If you put your border in shade, you must be prepared to explore Hostas, Astilbes, If the location you choose for your border Heucheras, Hellebores, Ferns, and other lacks a good background, consider building a denizens of shady nooks. simple fence or planting a hedge. A hedge FULL SUN Soil type is the other factor that determines needn’t be a row of tightly sheared Yew or Six hours or more of which plants you can grow. Most plants grow Privet. An informal assembly of shrubs such as direct sun between best in a soil that retains moisture reasonably 9:00 and 4:00. Viburnum, Syringa (Lilac), Clethra, Roses, and well while allowing the excess to drain away. Hydrangea offers a combination of bright On the extremes are sandy soils that dry out flowers, fruit, and striking fall color, as well as a rapidly after rainfall or irrigation and heavy rich green backdrop for the summer spectacle clay soils that stay soggy long after the rain has that unfolds at their feet. stopped. If you site your border on a hot sandy If you want to use a border to break up a bank or in a low, poorly drained area, you may large expanse of lawn, you may wish to dis- have to abandon your list of favorites and do pense with a traditional background and plant some research to discover plants adapted to an island bed instead. An island bed stands your soil type. It is possible to amend soil, to alone, surrounded by a sea of turf. To be effec- change it to suit the needs of plants (see our PARTIAL SUN Direct sun for 3–4 tive, it must generally be large—but in scale “Caring for Your Plants” brochure and the cul- hours and shade the with the overall landscape—and it must con- tural instructions booklet under Gardening rest of the day. tain tall plants (4ft or more) either at the back Help on our Web site), but radical transforma- or through the middle of the garden. These tall tion is labor-intensive and expensive. You’ll do plants act as a background for their shorter better to grow plants that like your conditions. neighbors and give the bed the sort of presence 3. Determine the size and shape of that a small circle of compact plants lacks. your border. ❁ What sorts of plants do you want to grow? A border’s size should match the scale of the Plants have basic needs that must be met if surrounding landscape (large properties gen- SHADE they are to thrive. The most important of these erally require large borders, small properties, Bright reflected are sun and soil. The majority of flowering small borders) and the inclinations of the gar- light but little or plants require full sun to reach their full poten- dener. Most people start with a small bed in a no direct sun. tial (see drawings at right). Many will tolerate sunny spot and are astounded at how fast the partial shade with little reduction in bloom, space fills up. They then add a few more feet to

4 whiteflowerfarm.com 5 the front or along the sides, perhaps several for straight-edged beds) or a garden hose times over the years. There is nothing wrong (which mimics a sinuous edge). Step back and with this gradual approach to garden making. look at the area from various vantage points In our experience, it’s better to start small and and adjust the lines to suit your taste. expand as time, money, and interest allow than When you’re pleased with the layout of to be overwhelmed by the demands of design- your garden, take a can of spray paint (white is ing and planting a large border. The object of easiest to see) and, following the string or the gardening, remember, is to have fun, not to hose, paint a line on the lawn or the soil. Then pull your hair out because you’ve bitten off measure the dimensions of your border. If your more than you can chew. border has an irregular shape, take multiple If you are designing a new garden from measurements so that you’ll be able to repro- scratch, however, you should aim to make it no duce the curves on paper. It’s also important less than 4 feet deep. A 2-foot-wide strip along to note the relative position of anything that is a fence or deck barely allows for a single row of to remain inside the border—a shrub or a plants. A depth of four feet or more allows for boulder, for example—and the location of a difference in plant height between front and nearby shade trees, hedges, fences, or other back and for enough variety to hold your inter- objects that might affect the amount of light est through the season. In a few years, you may that reaches your garden. decide to deepen the border to eight or ten feet. Now it’s time to do some research. Sixteen or 20 feet is not too much if you want to put large shrubs along the back. 5. Look for plants adapted to your Should the edges of your border be straight growing conditions. or curved? Straight lines and hard angles suit Faced with the seemingly endless variety of formal designs, in which borders are given plants available in catalogues and garden cen- standard geometrical shapes (squares, rectan- ters, how do you choose the few you have room gles, circles). Gentle curves and irregular for in your garden? Height, flower color, bloom shapes have a more relaxed, natural, and there- time, and leaf texture should all be considered fore informal look. Choose a shape that fits (and we’ll discuss each in some detail below), your landscape, but don’t be afraid to mix and but the overriding concern of the gardener can match. Borders close to the house and deck, for be summed up in another question: will that example, might be straight-edged, matching plant grow for me? Plants are living things that the lines of the architecture, while borders have basic requirements for good health. along a property line or surrounding a group Provide those requirements and your plants of trees and shrubs might undulate with the will thrive; deny them and your plants will lan- natural contours of the site. guish or expire despite your best efforts. No matter how good your design looks on paper, it 4. Mark and measure the garden. is doomed to failure if the plants you choose To help visualize the border-to-be, trace its are not adapted to the growing conditions in edges with strings tied to stakes (appropriate your border.

6 whiteflowerfarm.com 7 Because trial and error can be frustrating and expensive, the best ways to discover whether a plant will grow in your garden is to talk with fellow gardeners, read gardening books, and consult plant catalogues. The chart on pages 22 and 23 lists many good garden plants and, along with flower color, height, and bloom time, indicates their sun and soil requirements. If your new garden will be in the shade and you’re at a loss for what to grow, we refer you to the list of plants on page 32 that thrive with little or no direct sun. Most of the shrubs and a few large perennials, such as A PERENNIAL plants are available in either the spring or the LINE-UP BY fall from White Flower Farm. Aruncus dioicus (Goatsbeard) and ornamental Grasses, most plants put on a better show when HEIGHT For a good view of 6. From the list of suitable plants, make planted in numbers of three or more in irregular groupings called “drifts.”A drift is generally all of the plants in selections according to the basic prin- wider than it is deep, and the plants that com- your garden, arrange ciples of flower garden design. prise it are typically arranged in a staggered them by height— A single flowering plant can be very beautiful. tallest at the back, pattern resembling an upside-down “W,” shortest up front. A grouping of several specimens of the same which provides a natural, flowing look. plant can be impressive. Combining groups of Succeeding drifts are added in overlapping lay- different plants so that each complements the ers to help conceal the joints between them. others is the art gardeners aspire to. Here are a Planting in drifts means fewer varieties of few principles of organization that many gar- plants in your border, but those that are repre- deners have adopted because they work so well. sented have much greater impact than single Tall plants at the back, low-growers up specimens. front. A plant has to be seen to be appreciated, A few tips on using color. Color prefer- so it makes sense in most borders to put the ence is very personal. Combinations of color shortest plants along the edge, long-legged that cause one person to sigh with delight may plants at the back, and the rest in between, cre- cause another to wince. So, while entire books ating a gradual slope from, for example, have been written on color theory and why Dianthus in front to Coreopsis, Lilium, Phlox, some colors “work” together and others don’t, and finally tall ornamental Grasses at the rear. it makes sense to begin by choosing the colors “Drifts” make a statement. There is a ten- you like and experimenting to arrive at combi- dency among new gardeners to fill a garden nations that please you. Don’t be surprised if with individual specimens. The result is a col- your taste evolves with time. Changing color lection of plants that becomes a confused preference is one of the many reasons garden- jumble when seen from a distance. Apart from ing sustains a lifetime of interest.

8 whiteflowerfarm.com 9 If you’re at a loss at where to begin, try For the budding designer, the big question A FLOWER following these suggestions: is whether to devote most of the border to a GARDEN group of plants that flowers simultaneously, for THROUGH THE ❁ Pastel colors (creams, pale yellows, soft a superb but brief crescendo, or to opt for a less SEASONS pinks, lavenders) are soothing. They have the spectacular but longer-running show. The Gardens can be effect of a cool drink on a hot summer day. If answer depends on when you look at the bor- planted to provide your border is near the house or near where der. If you are away on vacation every July or one or two big you sit outdoors, you might want to choose a August, then you can ignore plants that bloom splashes or a less color theme in which pastels predominate. then and concentrate on those that bloom ear- spectacular but lier and later. If your garden surrounds a pool longer-running that is used only in high summer, you can leave display. The four ❁ Hot colors such as red, orange, and bright photos of the Lloyd yellow tend to grab attention. Use them to out spring bloomers and fall-flowering Asters and fill the space with annuals, Daylilies, Phlox, Border at White make a dramatic statement in a pastel border. Flower Farm on this A single orange Oriental poppy (Papaver orien- and Echinacea. But if you see your border from and the following tale), for example, can draw attention to a one end of the growing season to the other, you page show the succes- whole drift of cool blue Baptisias. And because won’t be satisfied with just one big splash. sion of bloom in a hot colors stand out at a distance, they deserve Here are some suggestions for designing a sunny garden planted the leading role in a border that is located well border with a long season of interest: for a long season of away from the house. interest.

❁ If you want to separate colors that you fear will conflict with one another, try using blue EARLY SPRING or white. Both go well with almost all other Brilliant Tulips colors, which allow them to serve as buffers bring early color as between warring neighbors. the perennials awaken from their winter nap. Managing the sequence of bloom. Gardeners dream of borders brimming with flowers from early spring through frost, but most bulbs, shrubs, perennials, and even many annuals bloom for a limited period of time. Spring- blooming shrubs such as Rhododendrons and ❁ Squeeze in spring-flowering bulbs. No Lilacs, for example, are at peak bloom for just a matter how much you crowd your border with week, two at most, and such popular perenni- shrubs, perennials, summer bulbs, and annuals as Peonies and Iris don’t last much longer. als, you’ll still be able to mount an impressive

10 whiteflowerfarm.com 11 LATE SPRING spring display if you plant spring-flowering Bold chartreuse bulbs. Planted between the crowns of perenni- Catalpa foliage als in fall, Narcissus, Tulips, and a host of other makes a strong early risers will perform magnificently the counterpoint with following spring, while the perennials are just the purple spheres of beginning to awaken from winter slumber. Allium ‘Globemaster’ The perennials then shoot up and hide the and the dark-leaved bulb foliage, which withers and disappears as Rosa glauca. the bulbs enter summer dormancy. Spring- flowering bulbs are offered in the fall by White Flower Farm.

❁ Keep the show rolling with annuals and long-blooming perennials. Don’t deprive SUMMER your garden of Peonies and Iris just because All the hot colors they don’t bloom all summer. Instead, grow of summer explode in a glorious mix them with plants that do. Annuals and tender of annuals and perennials such as Gomphrena and Petunias perennials. compensate for their short lives by blooming like the blazes all summer and into fall. Many hardy perennials have similarly irrepressible blooming habits. They keep on making flowers while other plants shine more briefly, then fade to green. (See page 32 for a list of long-blooming perennials.)

❁ Add a few plants with colored leaves.There are perennials, annuals, and shrubs that are LATE SUMMER prized more for their beautifully colored leaves INTO FALL than for their flowers. Silver Artemisias, golden Tall, dark-leaved Callunas (Heathers), and purple Heucheras Cannas and the complement the flowers of other plants when a drooping pink flowers border is at its peak and offer welcome dashes of Polygonum orien- of color when blooms are scarce. In the shade, tale take center stage where summer color is at a premium, the two- among the Grasses as tone leaves of variegated plants such as Hostas, the season progresses. Lamiums, and Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’, when combined with all-green plants, carry a border right through summer and into fall. 12 whiteflowerfarm.com 13 A variety of textures brings the border to life. TEXTURE IN An attractive garden includes a variety of plant THE GARDEN forms as well as colors. Contrasting flower and leaf shapes and plant silhouettes provide tex- SHAPELY FLOWERS ture and give a border a dynamic quality even Flowers of various shapes on a calm day. and sizes enliven an all- A garden of daisy-shaped flowers, for white border. example, may be colorful and charming, but add the trumpets of Lilies, the spikes of Liatris, Foxglove or the flat-topped heads of Achillea, and the airy cloud of a Gypsophila, and the composition really sings. THE ROLE OF FOLIAGE The same diversity is found in leaves. They In the shady mixed border, can be vaguely thumb-shaped, broad and leaves in all their shapes, colors, wavy, grassy, needle-like, lacy, or delicately and sizes play leading roles. lobed. Combine and contrast them and your border will hold your interest even when there are few flowers to be found. In a sunny border, try putting the sword-shaped leaves of a Siberian Iris behind the fine, needled leaves of Coreopsis ‘Moonbeam’; set the lance-shaped leaves of a Physostegia against the flowing backdrop of a Grass; or contrast ferny Achilleas with the huge, cabbage-like leaves of Crambe. In the shade, pair the broad, rounded leaves of Asarum with the smaller, heart-shaped leaves of Lamium; juxtapose the finely divided fronds of Ferns with shield-shaped Hostas; or soften the bold, flame-like leaves of Convallaria with the delicate lace of Corydalis. Plants also have a variety of silhouettes. Many, such as hardy Geraniums, Nepetas, PLANT PROFILES Peonies, and Hostas form broad mounds. Create interest by including Ornamental Grasses resemble arching foun- plants of different heights, tains. Garden Phlox, Buddleia, and tall Asters shapes, and growth habits. are vase-shaped. Ground-huggers such as Dianthus and the shade-loving Lamiums make spreading mats. And Delphiniums and Alceas (Hollyhocks) throw towering spikes.

14 whiteflowerfarm.com 15 7. Draft a plan. an 8½ by 11-inch sheet of graph paper. If your Once you’ve narrowed your plant choices and border is 20 feet long, you’ll have room enough and ruminated a bit on the principles for com- for a scale of two squares per foot of your gar- bining them, you’re ready to begin working den (2 squares per foot x 20 feet = 40 squares). on a plan. If your border is smaller, you can assign a scale with more squares per foot; if your border is Purchase drawing supplies. The drawing larger, you’ll have to use one square per foot or supplies required are available at most sta- perhaps give each square a value of two or tionery and art supply stores. You’ll need a few more feet of garden space. sheets of graph paper (8½ by 11in sheets with ¼in squares are adequate for all but the largest Put the outline of the border on paper. border), a straight edge, sharp pencils, and an Once you’ve decided on a scale, mark the eraser. You should also consider investing in points where you took measurements out- some transparent tracing paper, a set of col- doors and connect the dots to create the out- ored pencils, and a compass (the sort used for line, in miniature, of your border. Then indi- drawing circles and arcs) or a plastic template cate the points of the compass (North, East, that artists use to draw perfect circles. The trac- West, and South) in one corner and add the ing paper allows you to doodle without having important landmarks—trees, shrubs, large to redraw the basic outline of the border over rocks, fences. (The easiest way to show trees and over again. The colored pencils come in and shrubs on a plan is to draw circles or arcs handy when arranging plants in the border by that describe the spread of the branches.) flower color. The compass (or template) sim- Fill in the outline of the border. Lay a plify the drawing of accurate circles. piece of tracing paper over the outline and Determine a scale. Before you put pencil begin sketching out possible combinations of to paper, you need to determine an appropriate plants. Represent large specimen plants, scale for the drawing. Drawing your border to shrubs for example, as circles; show drifts as scale (that is, assigning a unit of measurement irregularly shaped blobs resembling the cells on paper that equals a much larger measure- you saw through the microscope in biology ment of the real border) will help you keep class. Inside each circle and blob, note the plant groupings proportional and help you name of the plant and a few key bits of infor- determine, with a fair degree of accuracy, the mation: flower color, bloom time, and height number of plants you will need. (see the drawing on page 18). Color the circles and blobs with colored pencils to help visualize The simplest way to proceed is to choose a the distribution of flower and foliage color. Use scale that allows you to fit the entire border on separate pieces of tracing paper for each a single piece of paper. There are 44 one-quar- month or for each bloom season (spring, June, ter inch squares running across the long side of summer, and late summer/fall, for example) to

16 whiteflowerfarm.com 17 plant you’ll need. You might think that coming up with this number would be straightforward, but in practice, it’s a bit tricky. People have dif- fering opinions on how full a border should look. Also, the plants you buy from a mail- order nursery or garden center will not be full size. Shrubs, and many perennials, require several seasons to reach their mature dimensions. Do you want to wait for the plants to fill in or would you prefer to have the garden look full sooner rather than later (with the understand- ing that you’ll have to do some thinning to prevent overcrowding)? To arrive at a reasonably good estimate of the number of plants you’ll need for your bor- PUTTING YOUR see how the display will change over time. der, we suggest the following procedure: If you’re unsure of where to begin, pencil in THOUGHTS ❁ Consult the White Flower Farm catalogue ON APER the shrubs first. They’re often larger than the P or Web site, the cultural instructions booklet other plants in a border and they’re more diffi- As you winnow the shipped with your order, and the label that cult to move if you change your mind (you can list of plants adapted comes with every plant for recommended to the growing condi- change your mind) after you’ve planted them. spacing. In most cases, you’ll find a range (12 to tions in your garden, Then add the perennials, including hardy, 18 inches, for example), which is generally sketch out ideas on summer-blooming bulbs such as Lilies, and the equal to the mature spread of the plant. paper. Draw circles annuals. Because they can be planted between Choose the lower number for a fuller look, the for individual shrubs. the feet of perennials and shrubs, the spring- higher number for a more open look. Show drifts of three flowering bulbs should be added last and the or more perennials or area they occupy should be marked with dot- ❁ annuals as irregular, Lay a fresh piece of tracing paper over your overlapping blobs. ted lines on your plan. design. This process goes more quickly if you Spring-flowering ❁ With a compass or a template, draw a circle bulbs—which get an remember that this is your garden and you can plant what you want to. Give your favorites for each plant that is in scale with your plan. If early start, then the scale is one square = six inches, then a plant disappear—can be prominent placement and combine them with that spreads 12 to 18 inches wide should have a represented by circles a supporting cast that shows them to advan- ½ ¾ with dotted lines. tage. Once you’ve made a few big decisions, - to -inch diameter circle. Within a drift of you’ll generally find that the space fills quickly. like plants, remember to stagger the plants at the points of an imaginary, upside down “W.” Estimate the number of plants you’ll The points mark the centers of the plants. The need. When you’ve settled on a basic design, distance between points is the spacing (12 to 18 the final step is to estimate how many of each inches in our example).

18 whiteflowerfarm.com 19 Next steps. With a plan in hand, you can proceed to buy plants, prepare the soil (see our “Caring for Your Plants” brochure on our Web site and the cultural instructions booklet that accompanies your order for instructions on soil prepara- tion), and plant your garden. You’ll soon be able to enjoy the flowers you’ve dreamed of. But your work as a designer has just begun. That’s because a garden is never finished. It’s a process, an everchanging work in progress, that requires regular intervention on the part of the gardener as the plants grow and flourish (or occasionally disappear.) That’s what makes gardening so much fun. There’s always something new and different to look forward to. ❁

ESTIMATING As you draw your circles, you’ll probably THE NUMBER discover that your plan needs adjustment. To OF PLANTS get the show you want from a drift of Garden YOU’LL NEED Phlox (which might require five to seven When you’ve arrived plants), you may have to reduce the number of at a design that Echinacea you had hoped to use or eliminate pleases you, replace them entirely. If you left more space along the your rough sketch edge of the border for Nepeta x faassenii than with carefully drawn you think it requires, you may want to add circles, each repre- some Silver Mound Artemisia to fill the gap. senting a single plant. Don’t be surprised if, at planting time, you The finished plan will provide you with a discover you’ve purchased either too few or too good estimate of the many plants. The translation from paper to number of plants reality is never perfect. If you come up short, you’ll need to fill your order more plants or plug in annuals. If you new garden. have a surfeit of plants, look around your property for additional planting sites; you can always find a corner that would benefit from a splash of color.

20 whiteflowerfarm.com 21 plant selection chart PERENNIALS (for footnotes see previous page) FLOWER HARDINESS HEIGHT BLOOM SPACING 1 2 3 4 5 6 ANNUALS & TENDER PERENNIALS GENUS COLOR ZONES (inches) TIME SUN SOIL (inches) Hemerocallis (Daylily) all but blue 3-9 18-48 May-Oct 1-2 D-M 15-30 FLOWER HARDINESS HEIGHT BLOOM SPACING Hosta (Hosta) L, W, foliage 3-9 12-48 Jul-Oct 2-3 D-M-W 12-36 1 2 3 4 5 6 GENUS (Common Name) COLOR ZONES (inches) TIME SUN SOIL (inches) Heuchera (Coral Bells) W, P, R 4-9 10-24 Jun-Aug 1-2-3 M 15-18 Canna (Canna) O, P,Y, R 7-10 36-84 Jul-Sep 1-2 M24 Iris, bearded all colors 3-9 10-48 May-Jun 1 M 18-24 Coleus (Coleus) L 9-10 12-24 Jun-Sep 1-2-3 M12 Iris ensata (Japanese Iris) B, P, Pu, R, W 4-9 36-48 Jun-Jul 1 M-W 18-24 Gomphrena (Globe Amaranth) R annual 24 Jul-Sep 1 M12 Iris sibirica (Siberian Iris) B, Pu, W,Y 3-8 10-36 May-Jun 1-2 D-M-W 15-18 Heliotropium (Heliotrope) L, Pu 9-10 24-36 Jun-Sep 1 M18 Kirengeshoma (Waxbells) Y 5-7 36-48 Aug-Sep 2 M 36-48 Petunia (Petunia) P, Pu, W 10 12 Jun-Sep 1 M12 Lamium (Dead Nettle) P, W, foliage 4-8 12 Jun-Jul 2-3 D-M 12-18 BULBS Lavandula (Lavender) B, P, L, W 5-8 12-36 Jun-Aug 1 D-M 12-36 FLOWER HARDINESS HEIGHT BLOOM SPACING Liatris (Gayfeather) P, Pu, W 3-8 24-60 Jul-Sep 1-2 D-M 12-18 GENUS (Common Name) COLOR 1 ZONES 2 (inches) TIME 3 SUN 4 SOIL 5 (inches) 6 Liriope (Lilyturf) L, W 5-10 20 Aug-Sep 1-2-3 D-M-W 12-18 Lobelia (Lobelia) Pu, R 5-8 36-48 Jul-Sep 1-2 M-W 12-18 Crocosmia (Monbretia) R 5-8 48 Jun-Jul 1 M 12-15 Lupinus (Lupin) mixed 3-8 18-24 Jun-Jul 1 M 15-18 Crocus (Crocus) B, L, Pu, W, Y 4-8 3-8 Mar-Apr 1-2 M4 Malva (Mallow) B, P, Pu, W 3-9 24-48 Jul-Oct 1 M 15-24 Dahlia (Dahlia) all but blue 8-10 16-48 Jul-Oct 1-2 M 18-30 Mertensia (Virginia Bluebells) B 3-8 18 Apr-May 2-3 M 12-18 Lilium (Lily) all but blue 5-8 14-108 Jun-Sep 1-2 M12 Monarda (Bee Balm) P, Pu, R, W 3-8 30-42 Jul-Aug 1-2 M-W 15-20 Muscari (Grape Hyacinth) B, W 4-8 8-12 Apr-May 1-2 M3 Nepeta (Catmint) B 3-8 12-48 Jun-Sep 1-2 D-M 12-30 Narcissus (Daffodil) O, P, W, Y 3-8 6-24 Apr-May 1-2 M 4-12 Paeonia (Peony) P, R, W 4-8 26-48 Jun 1 M 18-30 Tulipa (Tulip) all but blue 3-8 3-36 Apr-May 1 M6 Papaver (Oriental Poppy) O, P, R 3-7 24-40 Jun 1 M 15-20 PERENNIALS Penstemon (Penstemon) P, Pu, W 3-9 18-36 Jun-Sep 1-2 D-M 12-18 FLOWER HARDINESS HEIGHT BLOOM SPACING Perovskia (Russian Sage) B 4-9 36-48 Jul-Sep 1 D-M 24-30 GENUS (Common Name) COLOR 1 ZONES 2 (inches) TIME 3 SUN 4 SOIL 5 (inches) 6 Phlox (Garden Phlox) P, R, W 3-8 30-40 Jun-Sep 1 M 18-24 Platycodon (Balloon Flower) B, W 3-8 15-40 Jun-Sep 1-2 M 12-18 Achillea (Yarrow) L,P, R, W, Y 3-9 24-48 Jun-Sep 1 D-M 12-18 Polygonatum (Solomon’s Seal) W 5-8 24 May-Jun 2-3 M-W 12-18 Alcea (Hollyhock) P, R, W, Y 4-7 48-96 Jun-Sep 1 M 18-24 Primula (Primrose) L, P, mixed 3-8 4-24 Apr-Jul 2-3 M-W 8-12 Alchemilla (Lady’s Mantle) Y 3-7 18 Jun-Aug 2 M 15-18 Pulmonaria (Lungwort) B/P 3-8 12 Apr-May 2-3 M-W 12-18 Anemone (Anemone) P, rose, W 3-8 24-48 Jul-Oct 1-2 M-W 18-24 Rudbeckia (Coneflower) Y 3-9 24-30 Jul-Oct 1 M 18-24 Aquilegia (Columbine) B, P, R, W, Y 3-9 6-36 May-Jun 1-2 M 12-18 Salvia (Sage) B, L, P 4-9 18-36 May-Aug 1 M 12-18 Artemisia (Artemisia) foliage 3-8 12-36 – 1 D-M 12-24 Scabiosa (Scabious) B, P, W, Y 4-8 15-48 May-Nov 1 D-M 12-18 Aruncus (Goatsbeard) W 3-8 8-72 May-Jun 2 M-W 12-36 Sedum (Stonecrop) P 4-9 18-24 Aug-Sep 1 M 12-18 Asarum (Wild Ginger) foliage 5-8 6 - 3 M 8-12 Smilacina (False Solomon’s Seal) W (R fruit) 3-8 24-36 Jun-Jul 2-3 M-W 12-18 Aster (Aster) B, P, Pu 3-8 24-48 Jun-Oct 1 M-W 12-18 Stachys (Betony) W 5-9 10-12 Jul-Aug 1-2 D-M 12-15 Astilbe (Astilbe) P, W 3-8 10-48 Jun-Aug 2 M-W 12-18 Stokesia (Stokes’ Aster) B, W 5-9 20-24 Jul-Sep 1 D-M 12-18 Baptisia (Wild Indigo) B 3-9 36-48 Jun 1 M 18-30 Thalictrum (Meadow Rue) L, W 4-10 36-96 Jun-Aug 2 M-W 12-18 Boltonia (Boltonia) P, W 4-8 36-60 Aug-Oct 1 D-M-W 18-24 Tiarella (Foam Flower) W 3-9 12-18 May-Sep 2-3 M-W 12-18 Calamintha (Calamint) L/W, P 5-9 12-18 Aug-Oct 1 D-M 15-18 Tricyrtis (Toad Lily) V, W 5-8 15-24 Sep-Oct 2-3 M 12-15 Campanula (Bellflower) B, Pu, W 4-8 6-72 May-Sep 1-2 M 10-24 Trollius (Globeflower) O, Y 4-7 16-24 May-Jun 1-2 M-W 12-18 Centranthus (Valerian) P, W 5-7 36 Jun-Sep 1-2 D-M 12-18 Veronica (Speedwell) B 3-8 3-24 May-Oct 1 D-M 12-18 Chrysanthemum (Mum) P, R, W 5-9 14-18 Aug-Oct 1 M 12-24 Veronicastrum (Culver’s Root) W 3-8 48-60 Aug-Sep 1-2 M-W 24-30 Cimicifuga (Bugbane) W 4-7 60-72 Aug-Sep 2 M 24-30 Convallaria (Lily-of-the-Valley) W 3-7 8-12 May-Jun 2-3 M-W 3-6 SHRUBS Coreopsis (Tickseed) P,Y 3-9 8-24 Jun-Oct 1 D-M-W 8-18 FLOWER HARDINESS HEIGHT BLOOM SPACING Corydalis (Corydalis) B, Y 5-7 8-15 May-Sep 2-3 M-W 8-12 GENUS COLOR 1 ZONES 2 (feet) TIME 3 SUN 4 SOIL 5 (feet) 6 Crambe (Colewort) W 4-7 60 Jun 1 M 36-48 Darmera (Umbrella Plant) P 5-7 24-48 Apr 2 M 36-48 Aronia (Chokeberry) W (R fruit) 5-8 6-10 May 1-2 D-M-W 9 Delphinium (Delphinium) B, L, P, Pu, W 4-8 24-84 Jun-Oct 1 M 12-30 Buddleia (Butterfly Bush) P, Pu, R/Pu 5-9 5-8 Jun-Sep 1 M 4-10 Dianthus (Garden Pink) P, R, W, mixed 4-8 4-18 May-Sep 1-2 D-M 8-24 Callicarpa (Beauty Berry) Pu fruit 5-8 4-6 Aug– 1-2 M4 Dicentra (Bleeding Heart) P, W 3-9 10-36 May-Sep 1-2-3 M-W 12-30 Caryopteris (Bluebeard) B 5-9 3-4 Aug-Oct 1 D-M 2½ Digitalis (Foxglove) P, R, W, Y 4-8 30-48 Jun-Jul 1-2 M 12-18 Clethra (Sweet Pepperbush) F-P, W 4-9 4-6 Aug 1-2 D-M-W 8 Echinacea (Purple Coneflower) R/Pu, W 3-9 40 Jun-Oct 1-2 D-M 18-24 Corylus (Hazelnut) Pu 4-8 6-12 May 1-2 M 6-12 Echinops (Globe Thistle) B 3-7 30-36 Jul-Aug 1-2 M15 Cotinus (Smokebush) Pu/R 5-8 8-10 Jul-Aug 1-2 M 10-15 Epimedium (Barrenwort) P, W, Y 5-8 10-30 May-Jun 2-3 M 12-15 Deutzia (Deutzia) P, W 5-8 5-6 May 1 M 4-6 Eryngium (Sea Holly) B, W 5-8 24-36 Jun-Aug 1 D-M 18-24 Fothergilla (Fothergilla) F-W 5-8 3-4 May 1-2 M 3-4 Ferns foliage 2-9 12-72 – 1-2-3 M-W 12-30 Hamamellis (Witch Hazel) O, Y 5-8 10-15 Feb-Mar, Oct 1-2 M 10-15 Geranium (Cranesbill) B, P, W 4-7 8-48 May-Aug 1-2 M 12-24 Heathers & Heaths L, P, Pu, R, W 4-8 1-3 Jan-Nov 1 M ½-2 Grasses & Bamboo tan, W 4-10 6-84 Jun-Dec 1-2 D-M-W 12-48 Hydrangea (Hydrangea) B, P, W 4-8 6-10 Jul-Aug 1-2 M 4-10 Helenium O/R, R 3-9 36 Aug-Sep 1 M-W 15-18 Ilex (Holly) R fruit 4-8 5-8 May 1-2-3 M-W 10 Heliopsis (False Sunflower) Y 5-9 48 Jun-Sep 1 D-M 18-30 Indigofera (Indigo) P 5-8 3-4 Jun-Sep 1 D-M 4 Helleborus (Hellebore) P, Pu, W 3-8 8-18 Feb-May 2-3 M 12-24 Kalmia (Mountain Laurel) P, R/W 4-7 5-7 Jun 1-2-3 M 6-10 Microbiota (Microbiota) - 3-7 ½-1½-1-2 M 6-8 FOOTNOTES: Paeonia (Tree Peony) F-P, Pu, R, W, Y 4-8 4-5 May-Jun 1-2 M 4-5 1 B = blue, L = lavender, O = orange, P = pink, Pu = purple, R = red, W = white, Y = yellow. Potentilla (Cinquefoil) W 3-7 4-6 Jun-Oct 1-2 D-M-W 4 2 Varieties within a genus or species will grow in the zones listed. See our Web site for the USDA hardiness zone map. Rhododendron (Rhododendron) F-L, P, Pu, W 4-8 3-8 Apr-Jul 1-2 M 4-6 3 Indicates bloom time outdoors in Litchfield. Plants in pots may bloom up to 4 weeks earlier. Rosa (Rose) F-L, P, R, W, Y 4-9 6-10 May-Oct 1 M1½-8 4 1 = full sun; 2 = partial shade; 3 = shade, bright light but no direct sun. Spiraea (Spirea) P, W 4-9 3-5 May-Sep 1-2 M 2-9 5 D = dries quickly, even after heavy rain; M = moderately moist and well drained;. W = wet, never flooding, but constantly moist; Syringa (Lilac) F-B, Pu/R, W 5-7 8-10 May-Jun 1 M 6-8 6 Indicates distance between plants in a group. Viburnum (Viburnum) F-P/W, W 5-8 5-10 Apr-Oct 1 M 5-8 22 whiteflowerfarm.com 23 Shady Lane Garden

This garden grows near the nursery on a narrow road lined with A Dicentra spectabilis (2) E Hosta (5) ancient Sugar Maples. Virginia Bluebells and old-fashioned Bleeding B Dicentra spectabilis ‘Alba’ (1) F Hosta (5) Hearts, both pink and white, spread on their own there among varie- C Mertensia virginica (6) GHosta (5) gated Solomon’s Seal. Over the years we’ve added the Emerald Isle DPolygonatum odoratum HHosta (5) Hosta collection, our favorite ground cover for shade. The Hostas are ‘Variegatum’ (5) just waking up as the others are in bloom, but once fully unfurled, their leaves create a lush, weed-smothering carpet. The Shady Lane Garden includes two plants of Dicentra spectabilis, one of D. s. ‘Alba’, AB A G EF five of Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’,six of Mertensia virginica, plus five plants of four different Hostas. H Garden measures approx. 5ft × 20ft. Tallest plant is Dicentra (36in). zones 4–8s/9w 2 C D C

whiteflowerfarm.com Deer-Resistant Garden for Sun

C F I C Deer won’t bother with this garden, but you’ll love its long season of E A L bloom and varied foliage forms and colors. From May through B

September, the plants provide a spectrum of harmonious flowers in G H JK shades of blue, rose, yellow, and white, offset by the greens, burgundy, D and silvers of foliage. The tawny spikes of Feather Reed Grass carry the show through fall and into winter. A Weigela Wine & Roses™ (1) GCoreopsis ‘Moonbeam’ (4) Garden measures approx. 5ft x 20ft. Tallest plant is Calamagrostis B Phlox paniculata ‘David’ (3) HStachys byzantina ‘Big Ears’ (3) ‘Karl Foerster’ (5–6ft). C Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’ (2) I Amsonia hubrichtii (3) zones 5–7s/8w 1 DSalvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ (3) J Geranium ‘Rozanne’ (3) E Echinacea (3) K Calamintha nepeta nepeta (2) F Perovskia atriplicifolia (1) L Monarda (3)

whiteflowerfarm.com Cool Lights Shade Garden

Designed by our head gardener, this garden for partial shade combines shrubs and perennials with colorful flowers and foliage that will provide a long season of interest. Garden measures approx. 8ft by 24ft. A Tallest plant is Hydrangea serrata ‘Blue Billow’ (3–4ft). zones 5–7s/9w 2 B E E C B A Hydrangea serrata ‘Blue Billow’ (3) GHeuchera ‘Obsidian’ (3) D B Hosta ‘Thunderbolt’ (3) HHakonechloa macra ‘All Gold’ (3) I J C Cimicifuga ‘Hillside Black Beauty’ (1) I x Heucherella ‘Stoplight’ (3) H K G F DDryopteris erythrosora ‘Brilliance’ (2) J Hosta ‘Fire and Ice’ (3) E Astilbe ‘Pink Lightning’ (4) K Dicentra ‘Candy Hearts’ (3) F Dicentra ‘Ivory Hearts’ (3)

whiteflowerfarm.com Sultry Delights Garden for Sun

This garden is a collection of brazen sun worshippers. Many have a long season of bloom as well and will attract hummingbirds and different varieties of butterflies to your yard. Garden measures approx. 15ft by 25ft. Tallest plant is Buddleia davidii ‘Guinevere’ (8-10ft). O zones 5 7s 9w P A N – / 1 N Q Q R A Buddleia davidii ‘Guinevere’ (1) J Leptodermis oblonga (2) B P B Phlox paniculata ‘Junior Dance’ (3) K Rosa Carefree Wonder™ (2) E L C Nepeta yunnanensis (1) L Caryopteris Grand Bleu™ (2) D L F C D Hemerocallis ‘Daring Deception’ (1) M Echinacea ‘Fragrant Angel’ (2) M I E Daphne ‘Summer Ice’ (1) N Delphinium ‘Pagan Purples’ (2) G K F Achillea ‘Summerwine’ (3) O Monarda ‘Coral Reef’ (2) H J G Hemerocallis ‘Apricot Sparkles’ (3) P Achillea ‘Gold Plate’ (2) H Calamintha nepeta nepeta (3) Q Eryngium ‘Sapphire Blue’ (2) I Veronica ‘Pink Damask’ (2) R Echinacea ‘Sundown’ (2)

whiteflowerfarm.com A Selection of Long-blooming Perennials Achillea ‘Moonshine’ (Yarrow) Aster x frikartii ‘Mönch’ (Aster) Boltonia ‘Pink Beauty’ (Boltonia) Calamintha nepeta nepeta (Calamint) Centranthus ruber and C. r. ‘Snowcloud’ (Valerian) Coreopsis (Tickseed) Corydalis (Corydalis) Dicentra (Bleeding Heart) Echinacea (Purple Coneflower) Heliopsis (False Sunflower) Hemerocallis ‘Happy Returns’ and ‘Stella de Oro’ (Daylily) Nepeta sibirica (Catmint) Perovskia (Russian Sage) Rudbeckia ‘Goldsturm’ (Black-eyed Susan) Salvia ‘Rose Wine’ and ‘May Night’ Scabiosa ‘Butterfly Blue’ and ‘Pink Mist’ (Scabious) Stokesia (Stokes’ Aster) Veronica ‘Goodness Grows’ Plants that Thrive in Shade Aruncus (Goatsbeard) Asarum (Wild Ginger) Astilbe (Astilbe) Convallaria (Lily-of-the-Valley) Corydalis (Corydalis) Dicentra (Bleeding Heart) Ferns Helleborus (Hellebore) Hosta (Hosta) Lamium (Dead Nettle) Liriope (Lilyturf) Silvery blue tones of Eryngium ‘Sapphire Mertensia (Virginia Bluebells) Blue’ bring the weathered bench and stone Polygonatum (Solomon’s Seal) wall into a mellow composition of Sedum Primula (Primrose) ‘Black Jack’ and Nepeta, punched up with Pulmonaria (Lungwort) the peachy pink Coneflower, Echinacea Smilacina (False Solomon’s Seal) Big Sky™ ‘Sundown’. Tiarella (Foamflower) 32 whiteflowerfarm.com 33