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Souzaki Mouzaki Ermioni Greece SOUZAKI MOUZAKI Climbing Guidebook 2021 EDITION General information General information, access guide, panoramas and topos SOUZAKI MOUZAKI ERMIONI GREECE An Olympus Mountaineering Trad Climbing Guidebook INTRODUCTION 04 About this guidebook TABLE KOUVERTA BEACH 06 About Kouverta & Ermioni OF ACCESS CONTENTS 08 Reaching the route TRAD CLIMBING - SOUZAKI MOUZAKI ARGOLIS SOUZAKI MOUZAKI 10 Route information RETURN 14 Returning from the rock DISCLAIMER 15 Climbing safely View towards Ermioni & Mount Didimon Route: Souzaki Mouzaki 2 3 Here are some ways to use this guidebook more safely. 1. Consultation: You should always consult with ances in the manner of placement, weathering, other climbers about the difficulty and risks of a metal fatigue, the quality of the metal used, and particular route before attempting it. Most local many other factors, these fixed protection piec- climbers are glad to provide advice on routes in es should always be sceptically considered and their area; we suggest that you contact locals to should be backed up when possible by your own confirm ratings and safety of particular routes and gear. to obtain first-hand information about he route of your choice. Never depend on a single piece of fixed protec- tion for your safety, because you can never tell 2. Instruction: Most climbing areas have local whether it will single-handedly hold weight. In climbing instructors and guides available. We rec- some cases, fixed protection may have been re- ommend that you engage an instructor or guide moved or is now missing. to learn safety techniques and to become famil- iar with the routes and hazards of the areas de- However, climbers should avoid adding new scribed in this book. Even if you are already profi- pieces of fixed protection, unless they deem the cient in climbing safely, occasionally hiring a guide pre-placed protection faulty and are looking to is a safe way to raise your climbing standard and replace it. Existing protection can be tested by learn advanced techniques. an experienced climber, to determine its strength. The ethics of climbing also strongly discourage 3. Fixed Protection: Some of the routes in this adding bolts or drilled pitons to a pre-existing book may use fixed bolts and pitons that have route, intending the route to be climbed as it was WARNING been pre-placed on the rock. Because of vari- meant to by the first ascent party. ABOUT THIS GUIDEBOOK Read before using this guidebook Be aware of the following potential inaccuracies while using this guidebook: Warning 1. Incorrect Descriptions of Routes: failure or absence of fixed protection, your own This guidebook is a compilation of unverified in- Therefore, be warned that you must exercise your If you are climbing a route and you have a doubt equipment’s failure, faulty protection placement, formation gathered from many different climbers. own judgment on where a climbing route goes, as to where it goes, you should not continue un- or improper use of climbing equipment. its difficulty, and your ability to safely protect your- less you are sure that you can go that way safely. The author cannot ensure the accuracy of any of self from the risks of rock climbing. Route descriptions and topos in this book could 4. Failure to Warn of a Particular Hazard: the information in this book, including topos and be inaccurate or misleading. Although an effort has been made to warn of route descriptions, difficulty ratings, and Examples of some of these risks are: falling due to known hazards on particular routes, this guide protection ratings. technical difficulty or due to natural hazards such 2. Incorrect Difficulty Rating: does not cover every hazard on every route. as holds breaking, falling rock, climbing equip- A route might be harder than the rating indicates. Climb carefully and be watchful. These may be incorrect or misleading, as ratings ment dropped by other climbers, adverse weath- Do not be lulled into a false sense of security by a of climbing difficulty and risk are always subjec- er conditions, failure of your own equipment, and low difficulty rating. There are no warranties, whether expressed tive and depend on the physical characteristics failure or absence of fixed protection. or implied, that this guidebook is accurate or (for example, height), experience, technical abili- 3. Incorrect Protection Rating: that the information contained in it is reliable. ty, confidence, and physical fitness of the climb- If you are climbing a route and you are unable er who supplied the rating. Additionally, climbers to arrange adequate protection through the use There are no warranties of fitness for a partic- who achieve first ascents sometimes underrate of fixed pitons or bolts and by placing your own ular purpose or that this guide is merchant- the difficulty or risk of the climbing route. protection devices, do not assume that there is able. Your use of this book indicates your as- adequate protection available higher above just sumption of the risk that it may contain errors because the route protection rating is not deter- and is an acknowledgment of your own sole mined as an X or an R. Every route is potentially responsibility for your climbing safety. an X (a fall may be deadly), due to the inherent hazards of climbing—including, for example, 4 5 About Ermioni Ermioni (Ancient Hermione) was originally found- far back in time’, and stated clearly that ‘it is not ed by mythical hero Ermionas and the ancient one of the lesser towns’. Dryopian tribe, and dedicated to the ‘messenger’ god, Hermes. The Ermionida area of Argolida has been inhab- ited since the Paleolithic period, 40,000 years During the Mycenaean period, the city was hon- ago. Archaeological excavations at the Meso- oured to Hermione, daughter of Helen and Me- lithic Franchthi Cave, near Ermioni, discovered nelaus, King of Sparta. When Helen and Paris the oldest complete human skeleton in Europe, sailed together for Troy, Hermione was cared for dating back to 23,000 BC. by Helen’s sister Clytemnestra, wife of Agamem- non, King of Argos and Mycenae. Useful links: Hermione later married Neoptolemus (Pyrrhus), son of the Greek hero Achilles. In the Iliad, Ho- General Info: Olympus Mountaineering mer described Ancient Hermione’s involvement in Argolis Climbing Guide the Trojan War, 1194-1184 BC, commanded by About Ermioni the Argive King Diomedes, also the number of warships that sailed from Hellas to bring back the beautiful Helen of Troy, Queen of Sparta. Climbing Katafyki Gorge Crags Over a thousand years later, the Augustan Roman Pillars of the Wind geographer Strabo wrote about Ancient Hermi- Rock of Ages ARGOLIS one as ‘the town lying on the South-Eastern Mount Didimo KOUVERTA BEACH end of the Argolid, whereby its history goes View from the parking spot of Souzaki Mouzaki route Kouverta Beach A paradicial bay with blue crystalline waters just going for a stroll in the country in the surrounding 9 km south of Ermioni Town. Kouverta beach is areas. definitely an ideal option for swimming and relax- ing in the tranquil surrounding. Enjoying the tranquil and peaceful atmosphere in Kouverta Beach and the village nearby, many The beach offers stunning views to the sea and is tourists have fallen in love with this location and found close to some of the most important tourist return year after year. spots in Ermioni, like Kranidi, Kilada, or Porto Heli, which remain unspoilt and beautiful. Apart from being a clean, sandy beach, Kouverta FREE KS offers an easy access to the centre of the town, HERE ICK where you will find some nice restaurants and GUIDEBOOCL mini markets. The place is excellent for families as well as honeymooners. Ermioni offers a wide ARGOLIS range of activities in the surrounding areas. ERMIONI Most tourists love taking photographs of the blue sea from the sand promontory, ideal for swim- View towards Ermioni from Mount Crow (Korax) ming, going for a walk along the coast line, or 6 7 ERMIONI - PROFITIS ELIAS/MOUZAKI ACCESS TO THE ROCK Access from Ermioni towards Profitis Elias of Mouzaki Access Souzaki Mouzaki - Ermioni Souzaki Mouzaki - Ermioni First Pitch - Start First Pitch - Crux Only 10 minutes drive from the town of Ermioni From there we follow the road to Profitis Elias and 7.8 km to reach the Profitis Elias chapel chapel where we park the car. From the parking where we can park the car. Starting from Ermioni spot, and move towards the north for 5 minutes we head west towards Kranidi and at 2.7km we following the goat trail until we will reach the be- turn left following the coastal road that leads to ginning of the route on this point: Kouverta beach. 37.352217, 23.253646 Souzaki Mouzaki - Ermioni View from R 01 8 9 SOUZAKI MOUZAKI V- | 50 m. Mouzaki - Ermioni 1st Ascent: 01/05/2021 1st Ascensionists: Olympus Mountaineering, D.Nakos & el_houdal General route information “Souzaki Mouzaki” (V-, 50 m.) first ascent was made on01/05/2021 by Olympus Mountaineering, D. Nakos and el_houdal. The route follows the rock formation which is located east from Kouverta beach of Ermioni, and specifically just above the Profitis Elias of Mouzaki chapel. The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional multipitch climbing with only two pitches length and of maximum grade V- UIAA. R2 V- 50 m. R1 SOUZAKI MOUZAKI R0 1st Ascent: 01/05/2021 1st Ascensionists: Olympus Mountaineering, D.Nakos, el_houdal Souzaki Mouzaki Route - West Face Route Area - Souzaki Mouzaki Approach Hike 10 11 SOUZAKI MOUZAKI SOUZAKI MOUZAKI V- | 50 m. Mouzaki - Ermioni V- | 50 m. Mouzaki - Ermioni 1st Ascent: 01/05/2021 1st Ascent: 01/05/2021 1st Ascensionists: Olympus Mountaineering, D.Nakos & el_houdal 1st Ascensionists: Olympus Mountaineering, D.Nakos & el_houdal R2 30 m.
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