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B U L G a R I a Б Ъ Л Г А Р KOÂÀ×ÅÂÈÖÀ ÁÚËÃÀÐÈß KOVACHEVICA BULGARIA 2 3 Êîâà÷åâèöà Âðúùàíå êúì èñòîðèÿòà “Äà óìååø äà ñå íàñëàæäàâàø íà ìèíàëîòî çíà÷è äà æèâååø äâîéíî” Ìàðöèàë Âèñîêî, ïî ñòðúìíèòå çàïàäíè ñêëîíîâå íà Äúáðàøêèÿ äÿë íà Çà- ïàäíèòå Ðîäîïè (íà 23 êì ñåâåðîèçòî÷íî îò ãð. Ãîöå Äåë÷åâ è 17 êì ñåâåðíî îò ñ. Ãúðìåí) íà 1020 ì íàäìîðñêà âèñî÷èíà ñå íàìèðà åäíà îò íàöèîíàëíèòå àðõèòåêòóðíè ëåãåíäè - ñåëî Êîâà÷åâèöà. Ïîñòðî- åíî â ñóðîâèòå óñëîâèÿ íà âèñîêîïëàíèíñêà ñðåäà, íî ñ ìåê ñðåäèçåì- íîìîðñêè êëèìàò, ñ ïëàíèíñêî âëèÿíèå, íîñåíî ïî ïîðå÷èåòî íà ð. Êà- íèíà (Êúðâàâà), êîÿòî ñå âðÿçâà â ñòðúìíèòå ñêëîíîâå íà çåìëèùå- òî, ñåëî Êîâà÷åâèöà ñìàéâà ïîãëåäà ñ íåâåðîÿòíîòî ñè àðõèòåêòóð- íî áîãàòñòâî. Îñêúäíèÿò, ñêàëèñò òåðåí å îòâîþâàí îò âñÿêà êúùà ñ èñòèíñêè ñòðîèòåëåí ïîäâèã íà ìíîãî ïîêîëåíèÿ. Îùå ñ ïúðâèòå çàñåëíèöè âúçíèêâà óíèêàëíèÿò òèï íà êîìïàêòíî æèëèùíî ñòðîèòåëñòâî; ðå- äîâî èëè àíñàìáëîâî, îò ãðóïà êúùè, íàðè÷àíè “áðàòñêè”. Ñãúñòåíî- òî ïðîñòðàíñòâî ìåæäó òÿõ ñèòóèðà òÿñíè ñòðúìíè óëè÷êè ñúñ ñïå- öèôè÷íà ïëàíèðîâêà è îðèãèíàëíà êàìåííà íàñòèëêà. Îáùèÿò àðõè- òåêòóðåí ñòèë, êîéòî ìîæå äà áúäå îïðåäåëåí êàòî “âúçðîæäåíñêè” å òîëêîâà óíèêàëåí, ÷å íÿìà àíàëîã â áúëãàðñêàòà àðõèòåêòóðà. Çà- òîâà îáùåñòâåíàòà îöåíêà çà ñàìîáèòíîñòòà è àðõèòåêòóðíàòà àâòåíòè÷íîñò íà ñåëèùíèÿ àíñàìáúë è çàïàçâàíåòî ìó êàòî íåïîâ- òîðèì è áåçöåíåí èñòîðè÷åñêè êîìïëåêñ, å èçðàçåíà â ðåøåíèåòî íà Ìèíèñòåðñêè ñúâåò ñ ðàçïîðåæäàíå ¹ 89 îò 1977 ã. çà îáÿâÿâàíå íà ñåëèùåòî çà “Èñòîðè÷åñêè è àðõèòåêòóðåí ðåçåðâàò - Êîâà÷åâèöà”. 4 Kovachevitsa Back to History “To be able to enjoy past means living twice” Martialis High, up on the Western slopes of the Dubrashky Part of the Western Rodopi Mountain (23 km Northeast of the town of Gotze Delchev and 17 km North of the village of Gurmen) at 1020 m above the sea level one of the national architecture legends is situated – the village of Kovachevitsa. Built in the severe conditions of high-mountain environment, yet in a mild Mediterranean climate with mountain influence, carried alongside the Kanina (Bloody) River Valley that juts into the steep slopes of the land, Kovachevitsa astounds the perception with its amazing architecture mag- nificence. The scarce, rocky terrain was won over by each house with a real feat of construction of many generations. A unique type of compact residence construction, whether row-structures or ensemble-based of groups houses referred to as “fraternal” ones was established ever since the first settlers appeared. The dense space among those houses situates narrow steep alleys with peculiar planning and an original stone-made pavement. The general architecture style, which may be defined as “Renaissance”, is so unique that it does not have an analogue in Bulgarian architecture. Therefore, the public appreciation for the originality and the architecture authenticity of the village assembly and the preservation thereof as a unique and invaluable historical complex was codified into a Decision made by the Council of Ministers under Instruction No 89 in 1977 for declaring the village to be Kovachevitsa Historical and Architecture Reserve. 5 Ôðàãìåíò îò ìðàìîðíà îëòàðíà ìàñà îò ðàííî õðèñòèÿíñêàòà åïîõà – ñðåäàòà íà III â. – Íèêîïîëèñ àä Íåñòóì (ÎÈÌ – ãð. Ãîöå Äåë÷åâ). Fragment of a marble altar tablet of the early Christian Age – middle of the 3rd century – Nikopolis ad Nestrum (MHM – Gotze Delchev). Òðàêèéñêè áðîíçîâ øëåì – IV â. ïð. Õð. - îòêðèò ïðè ñ. Êîâà÷åâèöà (ÍÈÌ – Ñîôèÿ). Thracian bronze helmet – 4th century B.C., discovered in Kovachevitsa (NHM — Sofia). Èñòîðè÷åñêîòî ìèíàëî íà ñ. Êîâà÷åâèöà å ìíîãîïëàñòîâî è íåãî- âàòà äúëáî÷èíà, ìàðêèðàíà îò èçêëþ÷èòåëíî öåííè àðõåîëîãè÷åñêè íàõîäêè, ìîæå äà ñå òúðñè îùå îò êàìåííî-ìåäíàòà åïîõà è êàòî ïðåäïîëàãàåì öåíòúð íà äðåâíà öèâèëèçàöèÿ, ìèíàâà ïðåç àíòè÷íî- ñòòà, îáèòàåì è íàñåëÿâàí ñ ðàçëè÷íà èíòåíçèâíîñò ïðåç âñè÷êè èñ- òîðè÷åñêè åïîõè, äî íàöèîíàëíîòî Âúçðàæäàíå, êîãàòî äîñòèãà ñâîÿ çàâúðøåí ñòèëîâ ðàçöâåò. Ñâèäåòåëñòâî çà òîâà áîãàòî èñòîðè÷åñêî ìèíàëî ñà íàõîäêèòå îò íàäãðîáíàòà ìîãèëà â ìåñòíîñòòà “Ðóäàðÿ” îò êúñíèÿ ïåðèîä íà æåëÿçíàòà åïîõà è òðàêèéñêîòî ñâåòèëèùå îò I õèëÿäîëåòèå ïð. Õð. â ìåñòíîñòòà “Êîçèÿ êàìúê”. Ñåâåðíî îò ñ. Êîâà÷åâèöà â ìåñòíîñò- òà “Ñâ. Êîíñòàíòèí” â îòêðèòèÿ àíòè÷åí íåêðîïîë ñà íàìåðåíè åä- íè îò íàé-öåííèòå íàöèîíàëíè íàõîäêè îò êðàÿ íà IV è íà÷àëîòî íà III âåê ïð. Õð. êàòî èçâåñòíèòå “Áðîíçîâ øëåì” è “Áðîíçîâà ðèçíèöà” òðàêèéñêè òèï. Èçòî÷íî îò ñåëîòî â ìåñòíîñòòà “Ñòàðàòà öúðêâà” ñà ðàçêðèòè îñíîâèòå íà ñðåäíîâåêîâíà öúðêâà. Ñëåäèòå îò àíòè÷åí ïúò, â áëèçîñò äî ñåëèùåòî, ñâúðçâàë Íèêîïîëèñ àä Íåñòóì è Ôèëèïîïîë (Ïëîâäèâ) ãî ïîñòàâÿ â ñðåäà íà èíòåíçèâíè êóëòóðíè è òúðãîâñêè âðúçêè â àíòè÷íîñòòà, ïðåäîïðåäåëÿùè áîãàòîòî ìó èñ- òîðè÷åñêî ìèíàëî. Çà ñúæàëåíèå íå ñúùåñòâóâàò ñèãóðíè èçòî÷íèöè çà èñòîðè÷åñêàòà õðîíîëîãèÿ íà âúçíèêâàíåòî è ðàçâèòèåòî íà ñåëè- ùåòî ïðåç äàëå÷íèòå åïîõè. Ïî-òî÷íèòå ñâåäåíèÿ ñà îò Ñðåäíîâåêî- 6 Áðîíçîâà ìîíåòà ñ îáðàçà íà èìïåðàòîð Òðàÿí – The Kovachevitsa historical past was multi-faceted and its profundity íà÷àëîòî íà II â. (ÎÈÌ – ãð. Ãîöå Äåë÷åâ). marked by extremely precious archeological finds could be sought as Bronze coin with the image of Emperor Trayan – beginning of early as the Stone-Copper Age and as a presumably center of an ancient the 2nd century (MHM – Gotze Delchev). civilization passed onto the Antiquity, inhabited under various intensity over all historic epochs up until the National Renaissance when it reached Ôðàãìåíò îò ìðàìîðíà îáðî÷íà ïëî÷êà ñ òðàêèéñêè it complete style zenith. êîííèê – III â., îòêðèòà â ðåãèîíà íà ñ. Êîâà÷åâèöà The finds of the tombstone in the Rudarya Place of the Late Iron Age (ÎÈÌ – ãð. Ãîöå Äåë÷åâ). and of the Thracian Sanctuary of the I millennium B.C. in the Kozia Kamak Fragment of a marble consecrated plate with a Thracian rider – 3rd century, discovered in the Kovachevitsa region place provide evidence to the latter rich historical past. Some of the most (MHM – Gotze Delchev). valuable national finds of the end of fourth and the beginning of the third century B.C. such as the famous Bronze Helmet and Bronze Chain-Mail of Thracian Type were found North of Kovachevitsa in the St. Konstantin Place in the open ancient necropolis. The foundations of a Middle-Age church were discovered east of the village in the Starata Tzurkva (Old Church) Place. The traces of an ancient road next to the village that must have linked Nikopolis ad Nestrum to Philipopolis (Plovdiv) situated it in the center of intense cultural and commercial interactions in Antiquity pre- determining its rich historical past. Unfortunately, no certain sources exist on the historic chronology of the establishment and the development of the village during ancient times. The reports that are more accurate dated from Middle Ages and were associated with the tragic period of Bulgaria under the Ottoman rule. 7 Ôðàãìåíò îò ìðàìîðíà îëòàðíà ìàñà ñ ëîâíè ñöåíè – III â. – Íèêîïîëèñ àä Íåñòóì (ÎÈÌ – ãð. Ãîöå Äåë÷åâ). Fragment of a marble plate with hunting scenes – 3rd century - Nikopolis ad Nestrum (MHM – Gotze Delchev). Ôðàãìåíò îò ìðàìîðíà ïðåãðàäíà îëòàðíà ñòåíà îò ðàííî õðèñòèÿíñêàòà åïîõà – ñðåäàòà íà III â. (ÎÈÌ – ãð. Ãîöå Äåë÷åâ). Fragment of a marble altar tablet of the early Christian Age – middle of the 3rd century – Nikopolis ad Nestrum (MHM – Gotze Delchev). âèåòî è ñà ñâúðçàíè ñ òðàãè÷íèÿ ïåðèîä íà Áúëãàðèÿ ïîä îòîìàíñêî âëàäè÷åñòâî.  ïåðèîäà íà ñâîåòî âúçíèêâàíå ñ. Êîâà÷åâèöà èìà íå ñàìî áîãàò èñòîðè÷åñêè ôîí, íî è ùåäðà ïðèðîäíà ñðåäà, áîãàòè ðå- ñóðñè îò îñíîâíèòå ñòðîèòåëíè ìàòåðèàëè êàìúê è äúðâî, êîèòî ñòèìóëèðàò ñòðîèòåëñòâîòî íà ñîëèäíè, çäðàâè ñãðàäè, íåïîäâëà- ñòíè íà ñòîëåòèÿòà. Îò êàìåííèòå îñíîâè ÷àê äî êàìåííèÿ ïîêðèâ, íàñòëàí ñ ïðî÷óòèòå êîâà÷åâñêè “òèêëè”, âñè÷êè àðõèòåêòóðíè äå- òàéëè ñà áèëè ñúçäàäåíè ñ ÷óâñòâî çà ìÿðêà è òðàéíîñò. Òîïëîòàòà è óþòíîñòòà áèëè ïîñòèãíàòè ñ ðàçòî÷èòåëíàòà óïîòðåáà íà ïúð- âîêëàñåí äúðâåí ìàòåðèàë, ïîäáèðàí îò áîðîâèòå, áóêîâèòå è äúáî- âè ãîðè â îêîëíîñòòà. Ïúðâèòå çàñåëíèöè íà ñ. Êîâà÷åâèöà, ñïîðåä èñ- òîðè÷åñêàòà íàðîäíà ïàìåò, ñà áåæàíöè îò ðàçãðîìåíîòî îò òóð- öèòå Òúðíîâñêî öàðñòâî (1393 ã.) êúì êîèòî ñå ïðèñúåäèíÿâàò ïðå- ñåëíèöè è îò Êîñòóðñêî. Òå ñå óñòàíîâÿâàò â íÿêîëêî ìàõàëè, ïðúñíà- òè íà ãîëåìè ðàçñòîÿíèÿ. Äðóãà ãîëÿìà âúëíà îò çàñåëíèöè å ñâúðçà- íà ñ áåç÷èíñòâàòà íà òóðñêàòà âëàñò ïðè íàñèëñòâåíîòî ïîìîõàìå- äàí÷âàíå íà áúëãàðñêîòî íàñåëåíèå. Ñëåä îïîæàðÿâàíåòî íà ñ. Ðèáíî- âî, îöåëÿëîòî íàñåëåíèå, ñå çàñåëâà â ãîðíàòà ÷àñò íà äíåøíîòî ñå- ëèùå, îêîëî èçâîð, ñåãà ãîëÿìà ÷åøìà, êîÿòî íîñè èìåòî “Öèãàí÷èöà”. Ëåãåíäàòà, êîÿòî äàâà èìåòî íà ñåëèùåòî “Êîâà÷åâèöà”, å ñâúðçàíà ñ æåíàòà íà åäèí ïðåñåëíèê êîâà÷ Ìàðêî - Ãèíà Êîâà÷åâèöà. Ñëåä ñìúðòòà ìó òàçè âåðîÿòíî, ìúäðà è ñèëíà ïî äóõ æåíà å áèëà òúð- 8 Ôðàãìåíòè îò êåðàìè÷íè ñúäîâå ñ ðèñóâàíà äåêîðàöèÿ – VI -V â. ïð. Õð. (ÎÈÌ – ãð. Ãîöå Äåë÷åâ). Fragments of ceramic vessels with painted ornaments – 6th-5th century B.C. (MHM – Gotze Delchev). Áðîíçîâè ìîíåòè ñ îáðàçà íà ðå÷íèÿ áîã è òðèçúáåö – IV-III â. ïð. Õð. (ÎÈÌ – ãð. Ãîöå Äåë÷åâ). Bronze coins with the image of a river god and a trident – 4th-3rd century B.C. (MHM – Gotze Delchev). During the period of its establishment, Kovachevitsa not only did it have rich historical background, but also generous nature, rich natural resources of the main construction materials of stone and wood that pro- vided incentives to building solid, firm sites, lasting beyond time. All archi- tecture details starting from the stone-made foundations reaching the stone-made roof, covered by the famous Kovachevitsa tiles – tikli, were created with a sense of moderation and solidity. The cordiality and cozi- ness were achieved by using lavishly first-class materials selected of the pine-tree, beech-tree and oak-tree woods in the vicinity. The first settlers in Kovachevitsa according to historic local memories were refugees of the Turnovo Kingdom defeated by the Turks (1393), which were joined by emigrants from the Kostursko regions.
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