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The Catchments of Bantry Bay

www.streamscapes.ie SAFETY FIRST!!! The ‘StreamScapes’ programme involves a hands-on survey of your local landscape and Welcome to StreamScapes, a dynamic environmental waterways...safety must always be the underlying concern. If you education programme for schools, community groups, are undertaking aquatic survey, and individual citizens. Undertaking a StreamScapes What is a Catchment? remember that all bodies of water project will give you a deeper understanding of: are potentially dangerous places. • How your local (rural or urban) catchment When you think of it, we all live in valleys, no matter how steep or broad, Slippery stones and banks, broken environment functions, and all of our valleys have streams and rivers. From the hills above us to glass and other rubbish, polluted water courses which may host • How human activities impact upon natural habitats, the sea below, these watercourses make their way across our landscape disease, poisonous plants, barbed • How high quality freshwater environments reflect wire in riparian zones, fast moving and define the Catchment in which we live. Here a mountain stream wise landscape management, currents, misjudging the depth of runs swiftly and tumbles over waterfalls, there a wide river flows easily water, cold temperatures...all of • How to achieve best practice in pursuit of livelihood these are hazards to be minded! and recreation, and, past green fields, through our communities and down to the sea. If you and your group are • How your informed and active participation in planning a visit to a stream, river, environmental stewardship can improve the quality In that river, along its banks and into the surrounding landscapes, canal, or lake for purposes of of life now and for those who will follow may be found a wealth of biodiversity; fish, birds, insects, animals, assessment, ensure that you have a good ratio of experienced and This book provides information in support of theoretical trees, wild flowers, and people, but only if our waters run pure and clean. water-friendly adults to students, keep clear of danger, and insist on and practical Environmental Studies. It is intended for the For our Catchment also contains our farms and factories, towns and discipline and caution! use of Primary & Secondary School Students, but may be toilets. We need all of these, but we must also come to understand relevant to Farmers, landowners, or anyone interested in conserving their local waters, such as Angling Clubs or how, as we work and play, or cook, and clean, and garden at home, Tidy Towns Committees. An accompanying ‘Teacher’s we have a huge impact on water quality around us. StreamScapes Series Editor: Mark Boyden Guide’, ‘StreamScapes Múinteoir’, is available to advise Print: Ryson, Dublin further Catchment studies, and there are other resources ©Coomhola Salmon Trust Ltd. 2019 available on the website www.streamscapes.ie in This book introduces us to the Catchments of The Rivers of Bantry Bay; Published by Coomhola Salmon Trust Ltd. support of projects. Bantry, Co. Cork, Republic of Ireland the Water Cycle; and the wonderful variety of Biodiversity that clean t: (353/0) 275 0453 e: [email protected] rivers & streams support. It also encourages us to be active participants in w: www.streamscapes.ie

Cover Photo: Cnoc Daod/Hungry Hill (StreamScapes Images) minimising the impacts that we can have upon these species & habitats. Original Artwork: Jessie May Winchester, Mary Moorkens “Low-anchored Cloud... Appreciation is expressed to Katherine Corkery & Michelle Green of the Environmental Awareness Unit, Cork County Council; Fran Igoe & Kieran Murphy of LAWPRO; Vincent Murphy; The Bantry font and source of Rivers!” Bay Hotel; The Eccles Hotel, The Maritime Hotel; Bantry Chamber of Commerce; Bantry Tidy Towns; The Students & Teachers of the Henry David Thoreau Schools of the Bantry Bay area for enthusiastic participation in StreamScapes Projects since 1989!

Let ’s build ‘Catch ment Co nsciou sness’!

Printed on Cocoon Offset Fibre sourcing and recycling 100% post-consumer fibres, FSC ® Recycled certified and PCF (Process Chlorine Free). Chemicals: no substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic, or repro-toxic (CMR) are used as raw materials. Printed using vegetable oil-based inks and water based varnishes and sealants. Chemicals and solvents used in the processes are recycled or safely disposed of outside the public drainage system. Welcome to the Water-Cycle! Our Catchment’s journey from Source to Sea

All these things need water (well ok, maybe The water not ginger bread that’s on the people)

earth today is (or dinosaurs) exactly the same water that was (but everything else) everything (but always here - no more and no less! But that’s only half the And story - how does it what about get up there in there people???? In the summer a big tree needs first place? about 200 buckets-full of Most animals need water EVERY DAY! to drink every Some animals day (adult humans don’t usually 2-3 litres) and die drink but get the within a few days water they need if they don’t in their food

1 water in 2 through the roots 3D Catchments

Water is used for all sorts of things in your home

3 4 5 6 The River Catchments of Bantry Bay A Catchment is a Community related by Water!

anaging our catchments requires Mus to understand and integrate a huge range of information - how people are using the water, including drinking, agriculture, industrial, use for bathing; the geography and geology of an area, Chun ár gcuid abhantrach a bhainistiú ní mór looking at how all the water bodies are dúinn glacadh le réimse leathan eolais agus an t-eolas úd a thuiscint - an leas a bhaintear as connected both above and below ground, uisce, mar shampla ól, talmhaíocht, tionsclaíocht, how the water flows from where it falls as níochán chomh maith le tíreolas agus geolaíocht rain to the sea: how people use the land an cheantair. Caithfear féachaint ar an gceangal and water bodies and what livelihoods idir na coirp uisce ar fad atá faoi thalamh agus os a chionn, ar an sruth uisce báistí chun are supported; and possible sources of farraige, ar an leas a bhaintear as an dtalamh pollution, including urban waste water chomh maith le coirp uisce chun slí beatha a treatment plants, septic tanks and runoff bhaint amach. Ní mór smaoineamh ar fhoinsí from farming, forestry, hard surfaces, a chruthódh truailliú mar fhearais chóireála fuíolluisce uirbeach, dabhaigh mhúnlaigh agus construction and landfills. The principle River Catchments of Bantry Between Rivers, Mountains, and taomadh ó fheirmeacha, foraoisí, dromchlaí Bay consist of several distinctive, dramatic, Valleys; and Bantry Bay with its In recent years there has been good crua, foirgníocht agus líonadh talún. and scenically beautiful valleys, which sweep exposure to the Atlantic Ocean, progress in tackling serious pollution down from the Caha and Shehy Mountain there is an unbelievable mixture Le blianta beaga anuas tharla an-chuid dul chun but small point and diffuse sources of cinn maidir le mórthruailliú a cheansú ach tá Ranges. Characterised by heavily glaciated old of Biodiversity. The Rivers host pollution and physical damage to river mórán fós le déanamh maidir le foinsí beaga red sandstone, these mountains and valleys Atlantic salmon, Sea Trout, Eels, corridors remain an issue. truaillithe is iad scaipthe óna chéile. Ceist mhór contribute rushing streams to the main River Otters, Kingfisher, Dippers and fós is ea an díobháil fhisiciúil a dhéantar do bhealaí abhann. This booklet is designed to inform channels which ultimately flow into Bantry the rare Freshwater Pearl Mussels; people of the part they play in nature’s Bay. The entire area is influenced by the Gulf the Bay sees cetacean visitation Is í aidhm an leabhráin seo ná eolas a scaipeadh Stream, and the region has the highest annual and local rare birds include ar an ról a bhíonn ag an bpobal maidir le cúrsaí water cycle and provide us with lots of nádúrtha uisce agus modhanna a mhíniú chun information on how we can reduce our mean temperatures in the World for its latitude. Choughs and White-Tailed (Sea) gur féidir linn ár dtionchar ar uiscí a laghdú. impact on waters. Hopefully, it will also Between source and sea of all of these Rivers lives Eagles. All of these species need Táthar ag súil dá bharr go mbeidh breis eolais encourage better informed individuals and a vibrant population who achieve sustainable special environmental care, and againn go léir ar na hábhair seo agus go communities to reconnect with their local livelihoods from both mountain and grassland the people of the Bantry Bay mbeimid in ann suim a chothú san abhainn atá gar dúinn agus cur le chéile chun gnáthóga agus river and work together to restore habitat farms, fishing, services, tourism, and a wide region are learning about the cáilíocht uisce araon a athnuachan. and water quality. variety of businesses. This area is also home to ‘Best-Practice’ needed to conserve proud cultural and sporting traditions. these miracles in our midst!

7 8 We are interested in Salmon and Trout (the salmonids) because they are the proof of clean water and a healthy habitat - and they taste delicious too!

9 10 11 12 13 14 Our Wildlife If we can achieve high-quality waters in our water catchment, lots of benefits follow.

If we can achieve high-quality waters in our Catchment, lots of benefits follow. These pictures show a few examples of the variety of birds which we might see in our Otter rivers and along their banks. Cormorant Dipper Eel Humans

Salmon Egret Heron Kingfisher Minnow Trout

Next time you visit the rivers in our catchment area, tick the boxes of any of the species shown here that you are lucky to see... and don’t forget to tell your friends and family all about the wild Stickleback and wonderful nature you’ve seen. Swan Bat Mallard How many species can you find? 15 16 Bio-Monitors: The Rivers of Bantry Bay Our Bugs! Source to Sea

The insects that live in a stream provide indication of Cuan Baoi, Bantry Bay, is one of the most water quality in what is known as the ‘Q’ Scale: extraordinary large natural harbours in the World; though it may be apocryphal, it is reported that Q1=Bad Q2=Poor Q3=Moderate upon seeing it for the first time it caused Sir Walter Raleigh a rare moment of humility and he is Q4=Good Q5 = High reported to have exclaimed, “If Bantry Bay lay upon an English shore t’would be considered a Wonder Under the European Water Framework Directive, What bugs will we find in Our Stream? of the World!” Indeed if one sails upon it, or travels Ireland must achieve good ecological status & the roads or landscapes which fringe it, one may water quality for all rivers, lakes, estuaries, coasts witness scenes of unique dramatic grandeur. and groundwater, and prevent the deterioration of high-status water bodies. Ringed by hill and mountain ranges along the Beara Most of the waters of and flowing into Bantry Bay Peninsula (to the north), the Muintervara Peninsula are high or good status. Bantry Bay is host to a rich (on the south), and the Shehy Mountains to the biodiversity that makes it a very special place. To east, and in an area of some of the highest rainfall achieve good water quality, Ireland has developed in Ireland, these Catchments are characterised by the River Basin Management Plan (RBMP), in which relatively short (less than 20km) spate streams many rivers, lakes, estuaries and coastal waters Q2 Whirlygig and rivers which rise quickly with rain and then have been selected as Priority Areas for Action lower quickly when the rain ceases. Q1 Worm Beetle (PAA), where extra effort will be made to identify Approximately 102 recorded rivers and streams pressures that affect water quality. In Bantry Bay flow into Bantry Bay, together with many more we are particularly concerned, in this regard, with unrecorded short ephemeral streams. Together Adrigole River and Adrigole Harbour. These were these Catchments support Salmon and Sea Trout, selected because they are considered to be ‘High- Eels, Freshwater Pearl Mussels, Kingfishers, status objective’ water-bodies and in recent times Dippers, Otters, Kerry Slugs, a wide range of have dropped from ‘High’ to ‘Good’. aquatic and terrestrial birdlife and, in upper Bantry The Local Authority Waters Programme (LAWPRO) Bay, some extremely rare Lusitanian species. Q3 Water Q3 Cased was set up to help Communities, Local Authorities Caddis Fly and State Agencies work together to improve and Boatman protect our waters. This includes assessing these Priority Areas for Action and helping to find solutions to the problems. LAWPRO will work with the local community and others to help bring the Adrigole River back up to High Status. – Kieran Murphy, Local Authority Waters Programme (LAWPRO) Q4 May Fly For further information see: https://www. catchments.ie/data/#/catchment/21?_k=36iqeh Q4 May Fly Q5 Stone Fly Q5 Stone Fly

Figure 1: Q1 True Worm – Fíor - Phylum Annelida : Q3 Cased Caddis Fly – Nimfeach Caddis Eitilt – Rainfall in Ireland, normally live in silt and mud and can tolerate pollution Hydropsychidae: Builds home of twigs or pebbles with Bantry Bay vicinity circled in the lower left Q2 Whirlygig Beetle – Ciaróg Whirlygig – Gyrinidae - Oval, Q4 Mayfly nymph – Nimfeach Mayfly - Emphemeroptera black-bronze sheen: predators/scavengers Baetis: Very sensitive to pollution source: www.met.ie/climate/rainfall.asp Q3 Water Boatman – Bhádóra Uisce – Notonecta glauca: Q5 Stone Fly nymph – Nimfeach Eitilt Cloch - Dinocras 17 Carry bubbles of air under their wings cephalotes: Indicator of the highest water quality 18 The Rivers of Bantry Bay - Source to Sea

Creevoge Stream Castletownbere is associated with two Coomhola River streams. The Aghakista River enters (Abha Chom Sheola) Bere Haven at Brandyhall Bridge at the east end of the town and the Creevoge The Coomhola River (19.7km from River flows around the top of the source to sea) is among honoured River Mealagh company...the headwaters of the town to enter the Traillaun Harbour Glengarriff River Ouvane River (An Mhíolach) about 1.5km southwest of the town. Coomhola; the River Lee that flows The source of the Mealagh River is on The Creevoge River has two unusual Adrigole River (Abha Gleann Garbh) through Cork City; and the Roughty (Abha Mheáin) River that flows to Kenmare Bay; all the western side of Nowen Hill, about aspects over its 7.2km length. First, it If a river could be described as Conigar Bog, the Pass of Keimaneigh (Abha Eadargóil) have their sources within 3km of each 15km east of Bantry town. It meanders is largely a lowland river from source photogenic, then the Glengarriff (Ceim an fhiaigh – pass of the deer), other in the Derrynasaggart Mountains. for approximately 19.8km from its to sea and is mostly less than 100m Glenlough Mountain has a plateau River is definitely camera-friendly. and the Maunaclea Hills near Cousane Active blanket bogs surround the headwater stream to where it meets the in elevation – an unusual feature of a 420m high which holds the 30 Caha The old oak woodlands of Glengarriff Gap contribute three principle source of the Coomhola before it flows Bay just north of the town. The Mealagh mountainous peninsula. Second, the lakes, and the Adrigole River drains Woodland Nature Reserve provide tributaries to the Ouvane, with the river down into an area of upland pasture falls quickly from a starting elevation river flows around the top of the town, about a third of these. The source the perfect backdrop to frame the travelling 18.9km from Keimaneigh to mixed with forestry plantations. The of 430m to 120m in just 3km. The not through the town, as most towns of this river is not a spring from the beauty of the Glengarriff River. From Ballylickey Bridge. The Ouvane rises upper Coomhola valley also has ridges remainder of the river is relatively low developed to have such a river at their ground, rather a small lake called Red its source near the ridge of the Caha in upland heathland habitat and flows of exposed sandstone that cradle many lying as it meanders through a long, centre. The river finds the sea near Trout Lake (again, a reference to the Mountains, the river drops 290m as through a mosaic of farmland, scrub tributaries, some of which flow down fertile valley basin. This landscape was Dunboy Castle, the ancestral seat of the presence of the sensitive Arctic Char). it flows 8.4km to its namesake town woodland and rewilding fields. Patches from Cnoc Baoi, the highest mountain appreciated since ancient times as there O’Sullivan clan looking onto Bere Island The lake type here, referred to as and harbour. Like the other rivers of newly planted conifer plantations in County Cork. The upper lakes in the is a concentration of archaeological and Bantry Bay. ‘Dystrophic Lakes’, means that they considered here, its source and initial are a prominent feature upstream of Catchment support rare Arctic Char, sites and ruins from the Neolithic era. are nutrient poor and quite acidic, flow are through upland habitats Kealkil, near where the habitat changes a lake-locked member of the salmon Modern farmers also value the rich soils and these are a protected habitat in such as heathland and bog as well as to good quality grassland fields where family which prefer deep, high altitude of the Mealagh Valley. Lowland blanket Ireland and Europe. The lakes are scrub and rough woodlands. The Kerry cattle and sheep are grazed, and loughs. The mid- section of the valley bogs, known as fens occur occasionally Trafrask Stream brown from both the leaching of River is a substantial tributary that where the main channel plunges over floor narrows considerably, with the alongside the river. Planted forestry water from surrounding bogs, and the joins the Glengarriff and also has its a waterfall above Carriganass Castle. (Sruthán Trá Phraisce) river passing through beautiful tree- is a modern feature along the length peat that lies at the bottom. When in source near the county bounds. The Downstream of Kealkill the fields on lined stretches and between the small of the stream. Notably, there is native A set of streams on the southern side spate, this coloration may follow the river and woodland support unusual both sides of the river are richer and fertile fields of local farms. The river woodland around Drombrow townland, of Sugarloaf Mountains, including Adrigole River over its 9.7km to the and rare animals including freshwater support grazing and silage production enters its short tidal zone just above house and lake. A dramatic waterfall at Toberavanaha Lough, are the collective sea. The Adrigole area features some pearl-mussel, Kerry slug (a Lusitanian – fertile enough to get three cuts of old Snave Bridge. The Coomhola has a Inchiclough townland inhibits salmon sources of the Trafrask Stream. In its spectacular waterfalls, including one species) and the Silver-washed Fritillary silage in a year, showing that the river good run of salmon and trout, and the from accessing approximately 80% of short trip of 5.2km to the sea, the above Glenlough and another, the butterfly. Rare plants in the Glengarriff has increased the nutrient content river holds populations of Freshwater the Catchment, and Mealagh Valley Trafrask crosses the popular O’Sullivan ‘Mare’s Tail’, which plunges down the woodlands include the Strawberry Tree of the fields by occasional alluvial Pearl Mussel, one of the rarest and residents are lobbying to see a salmon Beara Way and Beara Way Cycle Route. side of Hungry Hill (Cnoc Daod) and (Arbutus, another Lusitanian species) flooding. Looking over the bridge in most protected invertebrates in Ireland. pass installed that would increase After travelling through the steep is reputed to be the highest waterfall and the Narrow-leaved Heleborine Pierson’s Bridge, you might be lucky These mussels need exceptionally clean this migration and assist local salmon slopes of thinly vegetated bare rock, in Ireland and the UK. As the Adrigole orchid. Salmon and trout, which the enough to see trout moving between water in order survive and thrive, their numbers. Adjacent to the bridge over the river levels out and supports River enters its lower stages, it passes Freshwater pearl-mussel depends on, the mats of floating Water Crowsfoot. main threat in this Catchment being the N71, the river makes a final plunge populations of Freshwater Pearl Mussel amongst blanket bogs and farms are also well represented, and can be Below Ballylickey Bridge the Ouvane suspended solids which are generated over Donemark Falls; here one may see that depend on its high water quality before flowing through the village into photographed in the dappled light of enters an 800m long estuary as it by forestry operations, particularly salmon making the leap up these falls and upon the Salmon and Sea Trout Adrigole Harbour. the woodland pools. mixes with the tide of Bantry Bay. clear-felling. in season.

19 20 Home Truths The StreamScapes method views our toilets, sinks, What is Biodiversity? baths and showers as Tributaries to our Rivers! Biodiversity, or “Biological What we put in them has a huge capacity to impact on Diversity”, refers to the sum total interdependent local Water Quality and Biodiversity. Outside our homes web of life, from bacteria, in our gardens and yards we have an equal ability to Instream Insects microscopic algae, fungi, create or destroy natural habitats. These tips will help Did you know that a through to plants, trees, restore water quality & biodiversity: amphibians, fish, birds and survey or census of the mammals - and people!!! If bugs that live in your we achieve “best-practice” Household Best Practice local river reveal the environmental quality we can greatly assist our • Avoid any Cleaning Products with Phosphates or community’s capacity for of the water? Stone Bleach - they spoil the good work of your Biodiversity. flies, mayflies, and sewage treatment plant / septic tank, leading to cased caddis fly larvae aquatic pollution - use ‘eco-friendly’ products! are amongst the most pollution-sensitive • Use the minimum of any cleaning product - aquatic bugs...if you enough is enough! find them in your river • Do not use in-sink food macerators (they put it is a good sign! And added strain on sewage treatment) - compost another good example of your vegetable wastes and use as fertiliser in Biodiversity in action.

your garden! jennydempseydesign.com Salmon • Any common household product labelled Hazard The status of Salmon or Poison or Irritant must be treated as toxic in local rivers is a Freshwater Mussels waste when disposing of - follow Local Authority great indicator of local The study of Biodiversity is environmental quality. guidelines and do not put in drains!!! full of wondrous stories... When they are present, • Keep your garden low-maintenance and low the Freshwater Pearl Mussel they are proof that multiple water-dependent, but covered in established sod (FPM), which used to live in terrestrial, instream, (and not hard-surfaced) to avoid contributing to most of Ireland’s rivers but and marine habitats peak urban rainfall run-off. Use native plants is now considered extremely are in balance. This is and trees to establish suitable local habitats. threatened, is the longest because salmon depend lived species, living over upon an entire suite of • Avoid herbicides, pesticides, and application of 100 years. The microscopic other, similarly sensitive fertilisers - find natural ways to garden. juveniles spend a winter organisms to thrive... attached to a trout’s gill... this Biodiversity! • Finally, control your use of water at home and in is how they migrate. They are the garden...treat it as the precious substance very sensitive to nutrient & that it is! silt pollution. Don’t let Nature go down the Drain!

A StreamScapes Publication This project aims to promote awareness of and stimulate Community Engagement in the rich Aquatic & Biodiversity resources of the Rivers of Coomhola Salmon Trust, ltd. Bantry, Co. Cork Bantry Bay, and is supported by Cork County Council; the Local Authorities t: (353/0) 275 0453 Waters Programme (LAWPRO); The Bantry Bay Hotel; The Eccles Hotel; e: [email protected] The Maritime Hotel; and Bantry Chamber w: www.streamscapes.ie

Coomhola Salmon Trust