A Cave and Mine Conservation Audit for the Manifold & Hamps Valley Area
A Cave and Mine Conservation Audit for the Manifold and Hamps Valley Area
Compiled by Martin Milner
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A Cave and Mine Conservation Audit for the Manifold and Hamps Valley Area
2nd Edition, August 2007
Compiled and edited by Martin Milner
Commissioned by the Derbyshire Caving Association
Acknowledgments
The production of this plan was a team effort and I am especially grateful for permission to use original material and for help given to me by the following:
Dr. John Barnatt - Senior Survey Archaeologist. PDNPA. Conservation Officer. PDMHS.
Dr. Martin Critchley - Remote Sensing Manager. ERA-Maptec Ltd., Dublin, Ireland.
Prof. John Gunn - Director. Limestone Research Group, University of Huddersfield.
John Malley - Formerly Property Manager. The National Trust, South Peak Estate.
Peter Mellors - Formerly of DCA Conservation & Access team.
Paul Mortimer - Countryside Manager. The National Trust, South Peak Estate.
David Wall - Staffordshire Wildlife Trust.
David Webb - Conservation Officer. Derbyshire Caving Association.
All proceeds from the sale of this publication are to go to the Derbyshire Caving Association for the purposes of funding the production of future audits and conservation plans. All photographs by Martin Milner unless otherwise indicated.
Cover photographs
Front cover: Main: The Manifold Valley looking south from the ridge above Wetton Mill. Darfar Ridge is in the foreground and Thor's Cave in the background. Top right: The West Window of Thor's Cave. Bottom left: Speleothems in Aussie Chamber, Darfar Ridge Cave. Bottom centre left: The Toboggan Run in Darfar Pot. Bottom centre right: Ossom's Crag from Darfar Ridge. Bottom right: A close-up of Nan Tor Cave at Wetton Mill.
Notes
References to items in the Bibliography are indicated by their reference number appearing in brackets in the text. For example: (23). All river bank references are made looking downstream.
All words in bold other than names of speleological sites are specialist terms which are explained in the glossary of caving, mining and other terms, appendix 2.
The O.S. maps in this publication have been used to show the study area and underground river courses and should not be used for any other purpose.
The locations of underground sites mentioned in section 2 can be found in figures 9 and 10. (Pages 30 and 31.)
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Contents
Section Subject Page
Acknowledgments, etc. 3
Contents 5
1 Introduction to the Manifold & Hamps Valleys 7
2 The Audit 7
2.1 Geographical Context and Relationships 9
2.2 Geology 9
2.2.1 Introduction 9 2.2.2 Stratigraphy 10 2.2.3 Structure 12 2.2.4 Mineralization 12 2.2.5 Geomorphology 14
2.3 Hydrology 15
2.3.1 Introduction 15 2.3.2 Catchment 15 2.3.3 Incised Valleys 15 2.3.4 Karst Features 15 2.3.5 Subterranean Flows 15 2.3.6 Groundwaters 19 2.3.7 A typical flood 19 2.3.8 Flow patterns 20
2.4 Archaeology 21
2.4.1 Introduction 21 2.4.2 Cave Archaeology 21 2.4.3 Mine Archaeology 24
2.5 Biospeleology 26
2.5.1 Introduction 26 2.5.2 Flora 26 2.5.3 Fauna 27
3 The Caves and Mines of the Manifold and Hamps Valleys 29
3.1 Introduction 29
3.2 Categories of site 29
3.3 Some background history 29
3.4 Descriptions and surveys of sites 32
Ecton Hill area 32 Wetton Mill area 35 T-Pot area 40 Thor's Cave area 42
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Ladyside Pot to Weag's Bridge 44 Beeston Tor area 45 Bincliff Mines Area 46 Robin's Shaft Mine 47 Ilam Risings 48 The Hamps Valley 50 Related Sites 53
3.5 Safety 54
4 Conservation 55
4.1 Introduction 55
4.2 User groups 55
4.3 Threats 55
4.4 Cave or Mine Conservation Plans 56
4.5 Access 57
4.6 Conservation Measures 57
4.6.1 Individual sites 58
5 Bibliography 60
6 Appendices
Appendix 1. Alphabetical list of significant underground sites 63 within the area.
Appendix 2. Glossary of caving, mining and other terms used 65 in this document.
Appendix 3. List of named caves monitored by the National 66 Trust.
Appendix 4. Useful contacts and addresses. 67
Appendix 5. List of RIGS sites in the audit area. 68
Appendix 6. Copy of English Nature 'Do you dig caves?' leaflet. 69
Appendix 7. Copies of the Hamps and Manifold and Ecton 71 Copper Mines SSSI Citations.
Appendix 8. Operations likely to damage the special interest 77 of an SSSI.
Appendix 9. Site Inspection Report Form. 78
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1. Introduction to the Manifold & Hamps Valleys
Similar to the Masson Hill audit, this document started out as an SSSI management plan, but was was renamed an area conservation audit to more accurately reflect its purpose. The study area extends for some 10 km from Warslow and Ecton in the north along the valley of the River Manifold, (originally known as the Manyfold (65) due to it's many twists and turns), to Ilam in the south-east, the valley of the River Hamps to Waterhouses in the south and eastwards towards the northem end of the Dove Valley in Beresford Dale.
Situated at the south-west extremity of the Peak District Carboniferous Limestone massif the area is of national importance for a range of features of geological interest including karst landforms, (such as that at Apes Tor near Ecton), limestone rock formations and cave fossil deposits; together with extensive ancient semi-natural woodlands, scrub communities and grasslands. The area also supports an outstanding assemblage of nationally rare and locally uncommon plants together with important invertebrate communities, most notably of ground beetles, butterflies and moths. Much of the area has been designated an SSSI and in addition, the area contains a significant number of scheduled monuments. Some of the area around Ecton Hill has been designated an SSSI in its own right, including the land above Dale Mine.
Although not one of the more popular areas for recreational cavers, the Manifold & Hamps Valley area contains a large number of caves and mines of various sizes and character. A good days caving can be had in the area visiting a number of the sites during the day, especially during the summer months when the beds of both rivers are largely dry. The mines are of particular interest to those people with an interest in mining history.
The current number of underground sites publically identified and associated with the two SSSI's is about 50. Adding in the caves related by hydrology or similar gives over 60 sites. If the Ecton Mines, Bincliff Mines and Ilam Risings are broken down into individual sites within each group there over 85 individual sites. This does not include numerous less significant sites in the area.
Examples of sites not actually within either SSSI, but hydrologically or otherwise associated with caves or mines within it are Gateham and Plantation Swallets near Wetton, Deepdale Shacks near Grindon, Waterways Swallet at Swinscoe and Robin's Shaft Mine near Ilam to name just a few. There are related sites even further away such as Wetstones Swallet on the Weaver Hills. Then there are also numerous old mine shafts scattered about on the surrounding hilltops about which little is known. 2. The Audit
Caves and mines are a valuable resource for many reasons, an integral part of our national heritage and we have a moral duty to conserve them for future generations. The purpose of this audit therefore is to:-
ñ Improve awareness of the need for cave and mine conservation in the area.
ñ List all the more important sites in the area whether natural or man-made.
ñ Summarise what is known about them and what speleological or archaeological potential there might be in each one.
Consideration is given to any potential threats to individual sites and any conservation measures that might help preserve them. In identifying these sites the audit can facilitate the production of more detailed Conservation Plans for individual sites where it is considered appropriate and also set up a mechanism to ensure that their condition is regularly monitored so that timely and appropriate action can be taken to initiate remedial conservation measures if necessary.
The area covered by this audit is shown in figure 1, (see next page), and does not confine itself solely to the area covered by the SSSI Site Notifications, but also includes other associated sites some of which are mentioned above.
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Fig. 1. Map showing the area covered by this audit.
Reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey. © Crown copyright and database right 2004. All rights reserved. Ordnance Survey licence no. AL100018591.
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2.1 Geographical context and relationships
A range of features of special geologicaI interest cover almost the whole of this area. The features of water-worn limestone (karst) extend throughout the river valleys and there are classical rock exposures showing the way in which the limestone was formed. There are examples of re-distributed Iimestone scree from the post-glacial period and caves containing important fossil animal remains.
The area includes much of the limestone valleys of the Manifold and Hamp rivers where they are entrenched into the Peak District Carboniferous Limestone plateau. Sinks are common and the area is an excellent example of partial underground capture of surface rivers in a karst region. Contrasting extents of river capture are demonstrated by the Hamps, which nearly always sinks underground downstream of Waterhouses, and the Manifold which sinks at various locations depending on the state of the river but in flood maintains a surface course right across the limestone outcrop.
The Hamps Valley has far fewer rocky outcrops than the Manifold to help the geologist. Some of these outcrops are next to the path in the sides of the artificial cuttings created during the building of the former railway, now the Manifold Track, while others are situated at the side of the river.
Some examples of natural outcrops (working upstream) are at Hamps Valley Cave (left-bank, see plate 3b), the large outcrop at Hell Hole Cave (right-bank), the right-bank of the bend at Hell Holes Swallet, the left-bank adjacent to the next bridge upstream and finally a lengthy stretch of exposed bedrock behind the sewage treatment works near Waterhouses. The only other significant outcrop (excluding the Cauldon quarries) is at Brown End Quarry Nature Reserve, (see plate 1), situated near the start of the Manifold Track.
Plate 1. Near vertical bedding in Brown End Quarry Nature Reserve (Staffordshire Wildlife Trust) at Waterhouses. 2.2 Geology
2.2.1 Introduction
Whilst regarded ostensibly as a south-western extension of the Carboniferous Limestone exposure of the Peak District, the area of the Manifold and Hamps valleys has some unusual features. Structurally, it is not a part of the Derbyshire shelf or massif. Instead it lies in a mobile channel separating the more stable Derbyshire and Midland shelves. This channel has been subjected to intense north-south folding which appears to have influenced the course of both valleys.
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The northern half of the area contains extensive knoll and apron reef limestones which have been weathered into prominent hills and crags and these give the area much of its scenic character. Examination of the reef limestone in this area reveals some of the vast numbers of fossils which make up the bulk of the rock. This is especially obvious in the walls of some of the caves in the area such as Elderbush Cave, where the walls are protected from normal weathering. (See plate 2.)
Plate 2. Fossils in one of the walls of the first chamber of Elderbush Cave. Most of them are Crinoid fossils, but you can see two rows of teeth near the left-hand side of the photo.
The denudation chronology of the area is still under study. The deep incision of both the Manifold and Hamps valleys is generally considered to be inter-glacial and a result of superimposition on to the limestone from a former Namurian cover, accelerated by a period of folding and uplift. Both valleys contain scree slopes believed to date from late Devensian periglacial conditions. Glacial deposits are confined to the high level caves of the Manifold valley and to swallets and dolines on the higher ground.
There is some dolomitisation of the limestone in upland parts of the area. However, no pocket deposits of refractory sand such as those found in adjacent areas are known to exist. The nearest igneous intrusion is at Tissington outside the area to the east. Mineralisation is notably more widespread in the Manifold than in the Hamps valley. Both copper and lead ores have been extracted over a lengthy period in the past.
2.2.2 Stratigraphy
The stretches of the Manifold and Hamps valleys that lie inside the SSSI boundary are carved entirely through Dinantian limestone of the Carboniferous period.
The stratigraphy extends upwards from the Milldale Limestones (these being the oldest and most extensive rocks to outcrop in the area) into the Hopedale beds (extending from near Beeston Tor to Ilam) and Ecton Limestones (from Waterfall northwards to Grindon, as well as from Apes Tor to Wetton Mill), Plate 3a. Folding of the Ecton Limestone at Apes Tor and finally to the younger Mixon Limestone-Shales near Ecton. (from Butterton to Warslow) and the Widmerpool Formation (seen near Throwley Hall and east of Ilam). The younger sediments are mostly thinly bedded. Bedding in the Milldale and Hopedale Limestones varies in richness across the area.
Scattered traces of partial dolomitisation occur in these older beds. There are no volcanic accumulations or outcrops found in the area; the closest of these lies to the east, around Tissington. A feature of the Milldale Limestones is the presence of reef knolls. These form prominent hills north of Wetton. They are also most spectacularly exposed in the Manifold valley, from Wetton Mill southwards, past Darfar, Redhurst, Ossom's and Thor's crags to Beeston Tor.
Plate 3b. A typical example of the outcrops in the Hamps Valley. This one shows solutional enlargement along one of the bedding planes at Hamps Valley Cave.
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Fig 2. Dinantian formations in the Manifold and Hamps Valley area. Source: British Geological Survey. (3)
Fewer and much less prominent reefs outcrop in the Hamps valley. The vast majority of the outcrops in the Hamps show bedded Milldale Limestone with few outcrops of reef limstone visible. One of these is high on the hillside (right-bank) downstream of the sewage works.
To the north-east of the area, the Wetton-Gratton area extending up to Beresford Dale, shows extensive sections through much of the Dinantian stage of the Carboniferous with superb sedimentological features and rich fossil faunas in both basinal and shelf environments.
The area covers a range of reef types and depositional environments of different ages, including apron reefs of Asbian age on the shelf margin and reef knolls in the basin. The origin of the reef knolls, in particular; is still poorly understood. It also offers an outstanding carbonate research locality on the edge of the Peak District limestone plateau, unrivalled in the complexity of its facies relationships in this complex area of shelf, reef, ramp, slope and basinal limestone deposition.
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Ecton Quarry is a site of significant geomorphological interest which provides a rare and permanent exposure through cemented and stratifed limestone talus. Formed during the late Pleistocene, the talus comprises stratified layers of coarse angular detritus and finer, more weathered material. It has been cemented by deposition of calcite in the voids between particles of debris. The stratification may reflect seasonal or climatic changes in groundwater conditions, or possibly changes in debris-supply conditions.
2.2.3 Structure
The limestones cut through by the Manifold and Hamps valleys form part of a so-called 'off-shelf' or mobile area that lies between the more stable Derbyshire block to the NNE and the Midland massif to the south. This mobile area contains a series of notable north-south folds attributed to the Hercynian Orogeny. The folding is visible in both the Manifold and Hamps valleys. The Manifold cuts south down the western limb of the tightly folded Ecton Anticline, whilst the Hamps cuts north along the western limb of the similarly tightly folded Soles Hill Anticline. There is a less acute anticlinal fold at Ilam.
Fig. 3. Main structural features of the area. Source: British Geological Survey. (3)
2.2.4 Mineralisation
Within the boundaries of the SSSI, mineralisation is much more a feature of the Manifold than of the Hamps valley. Copper, lead and zinc deposits at Ecton and lead and iron ochre at Bincliff have been intensively exploited. Ecton Mines consists of an array of veins developed predominantly within the Ecton Limestones of Lower Carboniferous age. These are concentrated within the structurally complex area of the Ecton Anticline where folding and faulting occurred during the Variscan Orogeny.
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Mineralisation occurred in NNW and ENE oriented fissures and fractures. However, the bulk of the mineralisation took place in a series of pipe-like deposits associated with the axial region of the anticline. The precise mechanism by which the mineralising fluids penetrated these rocks is not fully understood and a number of alternatives have been suggested.
West of the Hamps, from Waterfall village northwards towards Grindon, and similarly west of the Manifold, from Grindon northwards past Ossom's Hill, lesser known workings indicate the presence of mineral ores.
Fig. 4. Location of mineral deposits found in the Ecton area. Source: 'The Copper and Lead Mines around the Manifold Valley'. (59)
Plate 4a. (Left.) A sample of Galena. A type of lead ore commonly found in Peak District mines.
Plate 4b. (Right.) A sample of Copper Pyrites. A type of copper ore commonly found in Peak District mines. The surrounding mineral is Calcite.
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A common mineralisation feature found in Manifold Caves is chert nodules. These protrude from the walls of many passages making them extremely sharp. Shredder Passage, just past sump 1 in Redhurst Swallet, is a classic example of this. In other caves there are much larger versions which snap off when pressure is applied to them. The main passage of T-Pot has excellent examples of these including whole nodules lying on the floor of the passages where the surrounding rock has been completely removed by solutional action. The other most common features are veins of Calcite.
Plate 4c (left). A sample of rock taken from Whirlpool Pot situated behind the sewage works near Brown End Farm. Note the darker bands of rock in the sample and the vein of calcite.
Plate 4d (right). Another sample, this one showing a band of chert nodules.
2.2.5 Geomorphology
The area's geomorphology was well covered in Warwick's 'The Geomorphology of the Dove-Manifold Region' (1). More recent Uranium-thorium dating of flowstone from Darfar Ridge Cave, which lies beneath a remnant valley floor 33.6m above the present river level, suggests that it was drained by about 300 thousand years BP (Before Present), whereas palaeomagnetic dating of speleothems from Elderbush Cave, some 47m higher suggest the latter cave was drained much earlier at around 2.0 million years BP.
The difference in elevation of these two caves, in conjunction with the dating techniques, has allowed rates of incision of the Manifold to be estimated. (13). Dating of flowstone in caves just above river level, such as Radcliffe Stables, has suggested that the stalagmite deposits in those caves is only around 10,000 years old. (P. Rowe, pers. comm.)
There is potential for dating work in the below-river caves such as T-Pot and Ladyside Pot. This would involve taking sediment samples and examining them for different types of pollen.
Plate 5. Holes drilled in the top of a large stalagmite in the entrance of Elderbush Cave showing where some of the samples were taken from. Further samples have been taken from the base of the stalagmite, so that the ages of deposits at the top and bottom can be compared.
Plate 6. Cave Pearls found in a mine at Ecton. (Photo by David Webb.)
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2.3 Hydrology
2.3.1 Introduction
This is the only area in the Peak District where two major rivers with extensive allogenic catchments loose flow to the limestone leaving several kilometres of dry river bed at times of low discharge/flow. Furthermore, the cave systems into which the rivers sink provide examples of new cave systems developing under valley floors and gradually capturing the surface flow. Both rivers surface again, close to each other but separately, in the north bank of the Manifold at Ilam. Both rivers receive smaller tributaries which also dry up during times of low rainfall. Some of these tributaries flow in valleys that are graded to the depth of the Manifold and Hamps. Others have been left, by downcutting, as hanging valleys.
Evidence of a long history of subterranean flow occurs in the Manifold valley. There are many high level caves in the massive reef crags, which are truncated remnants of former underground water courses. Studies of features in these caves continue to aid scientists in understanding the stages undergone by the valley in cutting down to its present level. By contrast, the absence of these high level caves means that far less is known about the valley incision process of the River Hamps.
2.3.2 Catchment
Both the rivers Hamps and Manifold form part of the Dove catchment area. (See the LEAP for the Dove catchment area.) As with the River Dove, they rise on the Namurian grit and shale moorland that extends from Axe Edge southwards to Morridge Edge. Here the annual precipitation is high, and both rivers receive water from a number of tributaries before reaching the limestone exposure of the area.
2.3.3 Incised Valleys
There has been much speculation about how the two rivers came to carve out such deep gorges in the limestone, and the precise dating of their incision. The consensus appears to be that both valleys were superimposed on to the limestone from overlying younger rock which is thought to explain their pronounced meandering. Some uplift of the land could have occurred to accelerate the valley incision process.
2.3.4 Karst Features
In the Manifold valley, the truncated high level solution caves, (the most spectacular of which is Thor's Cave), give an indication of the level at which the river once flowed. No similar remnants are known in the Hamps Valley. These ancient solution features, along with the dramatic dissection of reef masses and abandonment of surface water courses are evidence, albeit inconsistent, of a past and continuing karstic denudation process across the area.
2.3.5 Subterranean Flows
The discharge of both rivers fluctuates considerably in response to catchment precipitation. In low discharge conditions both disappear into the limestone and abandon their surface beds completely. This does not happen simultaneously with both rivers, and the Hamps will dry up first. At its surface confluence with the Manifold the bed of the Hamps is a metre or so higher than that of the more deeply incised Manifold. (See plate 7.) Both rivers flood regularly during the winter months, sometimes spectacularly, with walls of water roaring down the river beds and occasionally carrying trees with them.
Both rivers dry up by way of a progressive retreat of their Plate 7. The confluence of the River Hamps surface flows via a succession of discrete fissures or and the River Manifold near Beeston Tor. sinkpoints, untill eventually the Hamps flows entirely below ground from Waterhouses, and the Manifold from Wetton Mill. Both come to the surface again (resurge) at the so-called 'boil holes' in the grounds of Ilam Hall. The group of springs located here, known collectively as the Ilam Risings, ranks as probably the largest of its kind in the country. Not only do the two rivers resurge separately here, as dye tests have shown, but also the waters from an arc of distant seasonal and former surface tributaries now pursuing underground routes to this point (see Fig. 5).
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Almost nothing is known about the precise course taken by the various subterranean flows converging at Ilam. A number of swallets have been enlarged and entered by cavers in the bed of the Manifold from Wetton Mill down to Weag's Bridge, and one or two have been similarly probed, but with less success, in the Hamps Valley.
Divers have also explored, for some distance and depth, the flooded river passageways at Ilam. The discoveries made so far, whilst significant, have highlighted the difficulties of making progress with charting underground flow channels in such a structurally complex area.
Fig. 5. Proven and conjectured water connections in the Manifold and Hamps area.
Since the 1970's, water tracing experiments using fluorescent dyes, (dye tests), have revealed a lot of information about the area. (2, 7, 8, 69.) Figure 5 shows a summary of the results of these experiments.
Many of the swallets in the river bed of the Manifold also act as resurgences depending on conditions, and factors affecting this phenomenon include river and cave water levels prior to flooding, the speed of flooding, and whether or not certain swallets are blocked at the time of the flood.
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In the Manifold there are at least two discrete sets of watercourses. The first carries the water from the main sink area swallets near Wetton Mill and it's route, once it enters the sump in Darfar Pot, is unknown; or even beneath which side of the valley it flows.
Fig. 6. Sketch cross-sections showing simplified water flow in differing conditions.
The second starts in the vicinity of Redhurst Swallet and carries the water from there to Wednesday Pot, and possibly other swallets nearby. This was proved in the 1980's by a strong visual positive result to a dye test using fluorescein with the water covering the distance between the entrance to Redhurst and Wednesday Pot (300m) in around 20 minutes. This would tend to indicate a relatively small body of water flowing in a discrete passage from one cave to the other, as opposed to it entering a large phreas. The dye was also seen in the old entrance passage of T-Pot shortly afterwards.
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From there it flows through T-Pot where much of it flows down the 'Hole in the Floor' dig in the main passage, or in higher water conditions down West Passage. A little further downstream, it has been observed flowing through Project Pot after T-Pot was flooded by the river, the water initially rising up out of the right-hand (upstream) passage.
The course of the water from here is unknown and will need to be tested, but it almost certainly ends up flowing through Ladyside Pot on its way to Weag's Bridge Resurgence. Its course when not actually resurging from here is currently unknown, as is whether the two main watercourses join before reaching the Ilam Risings, or which course water from swallets such as Wetton Road Swallet take. Another mystery is the origin of the water emerging under certain conditions at Bent Chisel Pot, although the water level in the cave is usually very similar to that in Ladyside Pot, so the two are probably hydrologically connected.
In the late 1990's, two additional water traces were carried out using Fluorescein. The first was between Hell Hole Swallet in the Hamps Valley and the risings at Ilam using charcoal detectors. Positive results were gained on this occasion from both the Upper (Hamps) Rising and the Main (Manifold) Rising. (7, 8). The second was between Ladyside Pot and Weag's Bridge Resurgence where there was a strong visual sighting of the dye as it emerged from the latter site after about 2 hours. (Distance about 400m.)
In addition it should be noted that none of the resurgences between Ladyside Pot and Weag's Bridge Resurgence (eg: Magic Mushroom Resurgence) were affected by the dye and also that the resurgences on the right-hand side of the river at the foot of Ladyside Wood (where the brook enters the river) often emit water of a different colour than that in the main river. This posed the question as to the source of this water, for example; is it part of the Manifold phreas or maybe Hamps water?
A major difference between the Hamps and Manifold Valleys is that the Manifold criss-crosses the underground passages between Redhurst Swallet and Ladyside Pot forming swallets at each crossing point. There is as yet no evidence for such behaviour in the Hamps Valley, in fact there is much conjecture on what route the underground Hamps takes.
However, what does seem probable is that the structure of the Soles Hill anticline has a large influence on the route of the underground water flow from the Lee House area downstream, as the bedding along this whole section of valley is dipping strongly away from Ilam in a generally westward direction. There are also a significant number of faults between the middle Hamps valley and Ilam which might also influence the water flow.
Fig. 7. Diagram showing 'Hydrological Gradients' (height above risings plotted against distance) and therefore the potential for 'dry' vadose cave passages as opposed to flooded phreatic ones.
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2.3.6 Groundwaters
In addition to allogenic recharge from the sinking streams, the groundwater body receives dispersed autogenic recharge from rainfall onto the limestone outcrop. No evidence has been found of hypogenic (thermal) groundwater anywhere in the area.
2.3.7 A Typical Flood - A personal observation by the author
The flood episode below was observed on April 26th 2004 during a walk down the Manifold Valley from Wetton Mill after torrential rain, when it was noted that the river was in flood at the point where the Manifold Track leaves the road and heads off towards Thor's Cave.
In the prevailing wet conditions, it was expected that the river would be flowing all the way down the valley, but surprisingly at a point just beyond the first field boundary, the river bed was completely dry.
A loud gurgling noise was heard and the front of the flood pulse was seen slowly working its way downstream. The slowness of its progress allowed plenty of time to take photographs of various swallets being covered by the flood water. (See plate 8.)
As the flood pulse moved downstream, it gradually speeded up, presumably because the previously empty swallets were filling up by this time. After it had covered the entrance of Project pot, the river took about 20 minutes to cover the distance of around 500m between Project Pot and Bent Chisel Pot, (at the foot of Thor's Crag), giving an average rate of travel of approximately 25m per minute.
Plate 8. The river engulfing the entrances of Wednesday Pot and T-Pot.
1 14:00 2
3 4 14:03
When the river had covered Project Pot, Ladyside pot was investigated, and although no water was visible at that time, the sound of water dripping into deep water could be heard. This, together with the absence of the normal draught indicated that the cave was sumped.
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A Cave and Mine Conservation Audit for the Manifold & Hamps Valley Area
14:27
14:07
Plate 9. The river reaches Project Pot. The Plate 10. Bent Chisel Pot being overcome by water is still clear at this time. flood water. Note the brown discolouration.
14:42
a b
Plates 11a (above left) to 11c (below left.) 14:52 Weag’s Bridge Resurgence becoming active.
After the river had been observed covering Bent Chisel 3. Pot, Weag’s Bridge Resurgence was visited and observed to be sumped about 1m down with the water slowly rising. 10 minutes later, the water started flowing strongly from the resurgence and from about 4 other places in the river bed just upstream of it.
No flowing water was observed anywhere between Ladyside Pot and this point. c Walking on to St. Bertram's Cave at Beeston Tor, frequent checks of the river bed surprisingly showed no signs of resurging water, even at the concrete area just downstream of the cave entrance, which must have been at a significantly lower altitude than Weag’s Bridge Resurgence. By Friday evening, (5 days later), the river had already retreated back to Project Pot once more.
2.3.8 Flow Patterns
Despite the general pattern of higher discharge during the winter months and lower discharge during the summer months, the times of year at which either of these states occurs varies greatly in line with varying rainfall and temperature. For example, it is not uncommon for the beds of both rivers to be dry in their middle sections in January or February, when the high ground of the catchment areas is frozen, or when there has been unusually low rainfall. Similarily, some years see regular flooding of both rivers during the summer months, due to localised thunderstorms.
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2.4 Archaeology
2.4.1 Introduction
The Manifold valley contains a greater concentration of high-level caves of archaeological significance and potential than any other part of the Peak District. The caves represent an invaluable source of knowledge, both actual and potential, about their habitation and the climatic changes that have influenced their use.
As successive stages in the downcutting of the valley would suggest, caves found at the highest levels tend to contain the oldest sediments. The earliest are considered to date from Anglian glacial or periglacial times. The earliest human artefacts are Palaeolithic. Animal bones extend from the Ipswichian inter-glacial period, when lions and bison roamed the area, to reindeer and bear of colder Devensian times. Sediments range from river and glacial debris to stalagmitic layers, red earth and gravelly soils. When humans finally abandoned the caves as places of habitation (most probably in Romano-British times), wild fauna again moved in to occupy them. Nowadays the more typical creatures inhabiting the caves are badgers, jackdaws and bats.
2.4.2 Cave Archaeology
The archaeological interest in caves is far more than just the artefacts and human bones that some contain. The sediments themselves, as well as such things as microscopic contents, snail shells and mammal bones, can tell us much about the local environment which people inhabited. Once sediments have been disturbed, the finds they contained are out of context and much of the scientific value is lost.
While such things as disturbed artefacts and larger bones still have some value, it is often difficult if not impossible to interpret the character of the deposits from which they came. This is important, for caves were used not only for habitation and occasional shelter, but also as places of burial, for ritual activity, and as places to cache food and hide valuables. In glacial and past interglacial times, the cave inhabitants were sometimes not people but large animals such as hyenas and it was the people who were the food source. If we are to understand past cave use, then cave deposits need to be carefully examined to distinguish between these alternatives.
People have used caves in all periods and all finds have potential value. The Peak District caves, including those in the Manifold/Hamps catchment, have produced evidence from prehistoric, Romano-British and later periods. Of particular importance because of their rarity are those of Palaeolithic (glacial and past interglacial) date (18). Those from the Manifold/Hamps catchment, taken together, are of national significance. Valuable but poorly understood evidence for prehistoric human burial, some of Neolithic and Bronze Age date, is also present (38, 39). The Peak District caves are also exceptional for the amount of Romano-British material they contain (40). Other sites, such as St Bertrams Cave, are important as rare examples of important finds from other periods.
The most important of the known archaeological caves in the catchment are listed below. However, it should be remembered that once the deposits have been fully removed, then the caves themselves are only of historical interest from an archaeological perspective. It is those archaeological sites which remain undiscovered or unrecognised, or those where excavations have taken place but where some sediments remain, which are of the greatest value.
Nan Tor Cave has produced disturbed human bones of one adult and three children, with Neolithic and Bronze Age pottery shards, Neolithic arrowheads and other prehistoric and Romano-British artifacts (55).
Mill Cave and Pot produced a small number of Mesolithic artifacts. A piece of bone found in association with Mesolithic tools was radiocarbon dated to around 9,000 B.P. Two disturbed human adult burials, beaker shards and later artifacts have also been found (43).
Ossom's Crag Cave, although small, is of considerable interest for its occupation during late Pleistocene times by both roosting birds and human hunters. Detailed excavation of well-stratified palaeolithic deposits has yielded an extensive fauna from the last (Devensian) glaciation, including small mammals and birds, which have been radio-carbon dated to 10,590 years BP. The cave has also produced disturbed human bones with prehistoric and Romano-British artefacts (41, 42).
Darfar Ridge Cave was dug archaeologically by the Rolls Royce Caving and Archaeological Club in 1960-1 (27, 28). Animal remains considered to be of Pleistocene or immediate post-Pleistocene were found including Reindeer, Bison, Ptarmigan and Banded Lemming, all indicative of a cold, dry climate. A single Mesolithic microlith was found along with several animal bones (28). Neolithic; Scattered fragments of a human skull and other bones were found as well as an 'arrowhead', a scraper and several animal bones (28).
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Romano-British; A limited amount of material including 4th. Century pottery shards and a Roman/Early Medieval knife (28). Later Medieval and Post- Medieval; Broken shards of 19th. Century pottery and assorted metalwork were found. Also the bones of Fox, Badger, Cat, small Ox, Hare, Rabbit, fowl, Goose and Turkey.
Old Hannah's Hole/Cave, (originally known as Old Anna Woman's Hall, 64), was investigated in 1899 by Sir Thomas Wardle (a Staffordshire geologist) with 11 layers of deposits being found (34), the whole series estimated to be about 3-4m in depth. The main ones were:- black soil at the top, then stiff reddish soil, red clay with small limestone fragments, limey stalagmitic accretions, then various deposits containing a high proportion of red sand. Wardles 11 layers were not all superimposed, some occurring in one place and not another. For instance, the earthy deposits at the front of the cave were replaced by limey deposits towards the back of the cave. This is not an unusual feature in a fissure cave where the limey solution from both walls often spreads out over the floor, permeating the total width of the deposits.
The most interesting deposit in this cave was the red sand. The red is no doubt due to oxides of iron, but the sand was probably derived from the shale grit beds lying to the north and east of Wetton, as at Sheen and Gateham. The conclusion to be drawn is that fairly late in the Pleistocene era, beds of gritstone, or moraines containing gritstone, were being eroded in the district, some of the material being swept by water into the fissures and caves. Plate 12. The entrance to Old Hannah's Hole. The upper deposits of Old Hannah's seem to have been divided off from the lower by 30-40cm of red clay with limestone fragments. The lowest level in the layer containing the limestone fragments marked the final appearance of Reindeer. A few patinated, long flint flakes, a hearth and other evidence of a wandering hunter of late Palaeolithic date. The fossil of the Arctic Lemming also occurred here for the last time. No small rodents seem to have been found here, merely one modern-looking jaw of a Shrew. Two human skulls, human bones and a wheel-made urn were found which appeared to be of Romano-British date and a flint flake thought to be Neolithic or later. In addition to the usual modern fauna from the upper levels, there were several bones of Deer and Horse, from the lower one.
Thor's Cave, (originally known as Thor's House Cavern, 65) ,was excavated in 1865 by the Midland Scientific Association (35, 36), when a sum of £5 was devoted to it's excavation under the supervision of Samuel Carrington. A thick deposit of red clay overlaying a breccia containing in places grit rock, but in other places overlaying fine stratified sand. At depths of 60-130cm many signs of cave dwellers were found with pottery, bone, bronze, bones of animals, iron knives and other artifacts of that metal which seemed to confirm a late Romano-British date for the main occupation. A feature of the bone artifacts was a number of curious worked antlertines which have been variously described as whistles, bridle cheek pieces and personal ornaments. A bone weaving comb and loom weights were not necessarily indicative of prolonged occupancy, but on the other hand there was also abundant charcoal, in superimposed layers.
One undisturbed inhumation was reported, that of a woman at a depth of 1.6m thought to be of prehistoric origin. The most interesting find was a piece of roughly sawn deer antler pierced by two holes as though for suspension. As it was dug from below the breccia, it was thought to be of late Paleolithic date.
Thor's Fissure Cave proved a difficult cave to excavate with the sections being complicated by a succession of huge slabs and boulders. The cave would not appear to be a desirable living site, yet yielded a series of occupation levels from late Palaeolithic to Romano-British times. The excavation was carried out by the Peakland Archaeological Society during 1933 and 1934. under the direction of G.H. Wilson. (21).
The lowest deposit (C in figure 8) was at least 1.3m of barren laminated clay, this was covered by a limey deposit of loose breccia containing the bones of late Pleistocene mammals such as a giant form of red deer, bear, reindeer and horse. Also in this stratum was a group of 4 palaeolithic patinated flint blades which are described as being of Aurignacian (earlier upper palaeolithic affinity. A bed of hard stalagmite then intervened across the cave floor which was in turn covered by a stiff clay containing stream wash. This in turn gave way to a red cave earth, laminated with hearths of Bronze Age date. In this horizon occurred beaker pottery, some amber beads, worked flints and a small polished stone axe with thin butt and flat sides of Neolithic date. Also in this horizon occurred curious pieces of dolphin bone thought to have been connected with certain magical practices.
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The next strata consisted of variations of the usual top-soil and contained an assemblage of Early Iron Age and Romano-British artifacts, mainly in the form of pottery. Human mandibles of four adults and two children were also found apparently buried as bones (of ancestors?) rather than bodies.
With regard to the interpretation of the strata, there is no easy parallel to those found in either Thor's Cave or Old Hannah's Hole which had red clay above and sandy material beneath. In Thor's Fissure Cave there were several types of cave earth covering a deep bed of clay. The series of animal bones however, do give a clear picture of the climatic succession.
Fig. 8. Survey of Thor's Fissure Cave showing the layers found. Source: Caves & Caving. (21)
Elderbush Cave has yielded, again to the Peakland Archaeological Society, Pleistocene age faunas from three main horizons. The two younger horizons dating to the last (Devensian) glaciation contained Arctic Lemming, Norway Lemming, various Voles, Bears, Lion, Spotted Hyaena, Horse, Woolly Rhino, Reindeer and other mammals.
The large vestibule of the cave yielded a clear sequence of events in which could be traced the extinction of certain species and the ascendency of others. The Lion and Hyena for example, found in one of the lower layers dating to the last interglacial are replaced by a prevalence of bears of several species, whilst Bison, Red Deer and Irish Deer seemed to grow less common as Reindeer became more common. A small hearth was found and the ribs of a young deer were found cached under some nearby slabs.
There are complementary deposits at Seven Ways Cave, which have yielded cold fauna including reindeer dating to the last (Devensian) glaciation. This cave has also produced human bones, two Neolithic arrowheads, and other prehistoric and Romano-British artefacts (44-47), while Elderbush Cave has produced human bones, beaker shards, a Bronze Age barbed and tanged arrowhead, and other prehistoric and Romano-British artefacts (48-51).
In Lynx Cave, the discovery of the skull and parts of the skeleton of a Lynx (Lynx Borealis) by G.H. Wilson and others in September 1925 (37) gave the cave it's name. Other mammalian remains were found in the Lower Lynx Cave including Polecat, Wolf, Ox, Sheep and Deer. Cheshire Wood Cave has produced human mandibles from two adults and two children, each in a shallow ‘rough grave’, with Neolithic pottery and Iron Age/Romano-British artefacts elsewhere in the cave (52). Falcon Low Cave, which appears to have had a built wall blocking its entrance, similarly produced skeletons of two adults and four children that may be of prehistoric date but no dateable artefacts accompanied them (52). Sycamore Cave produced the bones of two children, a Bronze Age copper axe and a small number of other prehistoric and Romano-British artefacts (53, 54).
The finds in all the above sites seem to suggest the following succession (22):-
“A period of flooding carried into the caves much gritstone material, then drier conditions permitted occupation of the caves by a 'Tundra' type of fauna. A possible change to warmer conditions permitted the appearance of Hyena and Lion which preyed on the numerous reindeer and bison. Towards the end of this era, bears became more common and finally replaced the hyenas and Lions, then a few hunters with a late paleolithic culture arrived in the area, but seemed to have used the caves only for short periods. With their departure, the 'tundra' forms of life also seemed to have died out, but Red Deer, Ox, Water Vole and other 'temperate' animals remained.”
St. Bertram's Cave, was initially excavated in September 1924 by G.H. Wilson and his son (37) and over a period of weeks a hoard of Anglo-Saxon 9th Century coins and metalwork was discovered. This included; Saxon Brooches, coins of Burgred, Ethelred, Ethelwulf, Ceolnoth (Archbishop of Canterbury) and Alfred the Great, a gold ring and gold wire and a silver medallion. A human burial, said to have been accompanied by bronze pin and pottery (some of roman origin) may have been Anglo-Saxon or Romano-British.
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Information on the archaeological potential of the areas caves and further references can be found in the publication specified in 'The Manifold Valley Caves Survey'. (5). Two sites discovered by cavers in the late 1970’s, but left undocumented are Beeston Cave and Cathedral Rift. They are difficult to find, difficult to get to, little known and not in ‘Caves of the Peak District’. (67). The latter cave has been excavated by someone in the past. (See plate 13.) It is not known whether they were archaeologists, how long ago it occurred or what documentation exists of this work. The caves appear to correspond to sites 61550 and 61551 as marked on the NT monitoring maps.
Another couple of high-level caves not in 'Caves of the Peak District' (67) have also been found near Beeston Tor. One at the top of an overgrown gully in between Beeston Cave and St. Bertram's Cave, but quite a bit higher. The other is near the top of the crag just downstream of Lynx Caves. This site is currently very small and appears undisturbed, but could reveal a cave of similar proportions to Lynx Cave or even Darfar Ridge Cave if excavated. Obviously, there could also be material of archaeological importance in the entrance. It may correspond to site 60126 on the NT maps.
Another relict cave with speleological potential is Ladyside Cave. This is a large fissure type cave high above T-Pot on the wooded slope. It is currently occupied by Badgers. This also has a 'high' importance rating on the NT monitoring list. Plate 13. Bones and a decaying trowel in There may well be a significant number of other relict caves Cathedral Rift are among the evidence of with important archaeological deposits, the entrances of past archaeological attention. which are currently blocked or unrecorded.
2.4.3 Mine Archaeology
The Peak District is one of the most important areas in Britain for its historical metal mines. Lead has been mined here for at least 2000 years, while copper at Ecton was first extracted about 3500-4000 years ago. In parallel with caves, it is not just the occasional artefact that is archaeologically important. The workings themselves, when carefully examined and analysed, can tell us much about the history of the mines and how the ores were extracted.
Underground features of importance are numerous and very varied (for example, see The Ecton Mines below). While mine passages that are accessible today, and their archaeological details, are often robust, some workings and the features they contain are unstable and care must be taken not to cause collapse that will prevent further study. Wooden stemples and perishable artefacts are often extremely fragile and prone to deterioration if disturbed. It should also be remembered that surface mine features can be of great archaeological importance and these should not be damaged or buried.
The ores mined in the Manifold/Hamps catchment were primarily of lead and copper, but zinc and iron have also been extracted. The mineralisation is locally very variable in character and richness. Thus, for example, at Ecton the north part of the hill was particularly rich in ores of copper, but with some lead and with zinc found at depth, while on the east and south parts of the hill lead ore predominated. Similarly, nearby on the other side of the Manifold to the west, Dale Mine mainly worked lead and zinc ores. Elsewhere within the catchment, while small amounts of copper ore were found, mining was mostly for lead ore, although even this was often not plentiful.
While the heart of lead extraction was in the eastern half of the region’s limestone plateau, between Wirksworth and Castleton (56), there are a significant number of mines in the Manifold/Hamps catchment, although these mostly probably had relatively small output. Many of the accessible workings probably date from the 17th to 19th centuries, mined with the help of gunpowder. However, there may well be exceptions, as indicated by early documentation, although physical evidence for early lead mining here largely remains to be identified. Several mines here have accessible underground workings of regional and national archaeological importance (57).
The Ecton Mines are of exceptional historical and archaeological importance, both because they have only the second proven example of prehistoric copper extraction in England (the other being the Alderley Edge Mines), and also because they were exceptionally extensive and rich in post-medieval times. In the 18th century Deep Ecton Mine was one of the deepest and richest mines in Britain and there are still many impressive archaeological features that reflect the mines exceptional character, that are rarely found elsewhere in Peak District mines. Significant parts of the surface remains have recently been designated as a Scheduled Monument (with the workings below also protected by the designation).
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Prehistoric mining has been demonstrated by the discovery of hammer stones and a radiocarbon-dated antler mining tool (58). Workings were probably relatively shallow and are now mostly choked with later mining debris. The known history of post-medieval mining at Ecton is well documented (59-61). In summary, the exceptionally rich copper deposits were discovered at depth in the 18th century, although smaller scale mining can be traced back to at least the early 17th century. In the 19th century, after the main ore sources at depth had been largely worked out, there was much speculative mining across the hill in the hope of finding further rich ores.
Archaeological evidence of 17th century mining exists at Dutchman Mine, including exceptionally large shotholes dating from 1665-68, which are some of the oldest in the orefield and the only known accessible example of the use of early continental blasting technique in Britain (62). The two largest mines, at Deep Ecton Pipe and Clayton Pipe, both still with extensive workings accessible above river level rising to the hilltop, but with flooded workings below that are over 300m deep, have much evidence for 18th and 19th century work. Features include shafts, access levels and drainage soughs, all leading to pipeworkings; chambers for a variety of winding and pumping engines with many surviving notches and metal pins that held these; dams, ore-chutes, tramways, working platforms, ladderways, stemples, stacks of deads, shotholes and the occasional miners inscription and artefact. There is extensive evidence that, when carefully examined, demonstrates the relative age of individual passages and how they were used, together with significant changes of use through time. Other accessible smaller mines at Ecton have similar evidence, notably at Waterbank Mine, Chadwick Mine, Dutchman/Goodhope Mine, Fly Mine and East Ecton Mine.
The Bincliff Mines, more correctly the Bincliff, Oversetts and Highfield Mines, comprise a series of levels following veins on the steep daleside at different heights above the river, some linked to shafts above. These provide good examples of post-medieval haulage, access and exploratory levels, with stopes above in parts. While two levels close to the river date to the 1850s, others are from the first half of the 19th century and possibly earlier, with some of the workings above the valley probably dating back to the 17th century if not before (59). In the 19th century the mines not only produced relatively small quantities of lead ore but also iron ochre used in paint manufacture.
Robin Shaft Mine is a classic example of a shaft that broke into natural caverns, although in this case it is unusual in that the shaft is not vertical but steeply inclined. It was sunk as a trial in the 19th century in the hope that ores as rich as those at Ecton would be found and while copper ore was extracted this was not in viable quantities and the mine soon closed (59). The once important Dale Mine, on the other side of the Manifold from Ecton, is again flooded below river level. A stretch of 19th century pumpway/sough to rises above is accessible, with stone stemples on iron pins at the end and an engine shaft part-way along (59). Hollybank Level, nearby to the north-east and just above river level, is an aborted late 19th century sough ending at a blind forefield, driven to drain earlier workings above (59).
Limepits Mine to the south-west of Dale Mine also has enterable 19th century levels and a large stope (information from Len Kirkham). The two Hoo Brook Levels, west of Wetton Mill, are again 19th century trials and end at blind forefields, although the Bodstone Mine workings on the hill opposite are documented as having medieval origins. Little is known of the archaeology of other mines in the area, for example at Narrowdale, Wetton Hill, Ilam, Throwley and Waterfall, and these are either inaccessible or no details of exploration are published.
Plate 14. Artifacts found in Limepits (West Ecton) Mine. (Photo by David Webb.)
Plate 14 shows:- 1. A metal shovel, 2. A kibble handle, 3. Part of a miners leather boot and 4. A pair of well-used hammer heads bearing the marks of heavy use - one has even been split down the middle. It is believed they are all of 19th century date and are typical of the type of artifacts once commonly found underground. Most have now been removed to private collections or museums.
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2.5 Biospeleology
2.5.1 Introduction
A look through the BCRA Bibliography of British subterranean biology (66), reveals no entries for any research in the Manifold and Hamps Valley area, but visits to several Manifold caves during the compilation of this audit, revealed an interesting variety of flora in the entrance zone and fauna in the twilight and dark zones of the caves. (Note: No species of fauna or flora were collected, disturbed or otherwise interfered with during the compilation of this section.) 2.5.2 Flora
Besides the Mosses, including Foxtail Feathermoss (Thamnobryum alopecurum) and Creeping Feathermoss (Amblystegium serpens), and Lichens found around many cave entrances, several varieties of fern and a number of other plant species were found growing in the entrance zones of the above river-level caves. Plates 15 to 18 show some of them. The higher plants are what might typically be found locally in shady woodland and woodland edge habitats.
Plate 15 (Right). This shows a species of fern called Maidenhair Spleenwort. (Asplenium trichomanes.)
Plate 16 (Left). This shows a plant called Herb Robert. (Geranium robertianum. A member of the Geranium family.)
Plate 17. (Right.) Plant called Golden Saxifrage (Chrysosplenium oppositifolium) found on the floor of Radcliffe Stables.
Plate 18 (Below). Fern found in the entrance of Wetton Hill Far Cave. This one is called Hart's Tongue Fern. (Phyllitis scolopendrium.) Abundant around the entrance of Darfar Crag Caves and Moonmilk Pot, it appears unusual to find it at this high location. (And actually inside a cave entrance.)
Other plants found were; Herb Bennett (Geum urbanum), Dog's Mercury (Mercurialis perennis), Hairy-brome Grass (Bromopsis ramosa) and Liverworts such as the Great Scented Liverwort. (Conocephalum conicum.)
In addition to the green photosynthesizing plants a number of different looking types of fungal growths or slime moulds have also been noted. Taken in summer 2004, plate 19a shows one of these. It was quite dry to the touch and seemed to have a jelly-like composition. A return in March 2005 revealed it to be much wetter and it had split into smaller globules and grown together quite a lot. This behaviour is apparently typical of slime moulds.
Plate 19a. (Right.) A fungal growth or slime mould found on the walls in the entrance of Old Hannah's Hole.
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Plate 19b. Moss and a greenish fungal growth or slime mould found in the entrance of Wetton Hill Far Cave. (Top left of photo.)
Plate 19b, (again taken in summer 2004), shows a growth with a greenish hue, as opposed to the brownish colouring of the growth in plate 19a. The growths in this cave were a lot wetter, resembling the consistency of runny jelly. Of course, this cave is a lot higher than Old Hannah's Hole and probably stays wetter for more of the year.
It is thought that these two growths are types of Plasmodial slime mould.
2.5.3 Fauna
Moths: Several Herald Moths (Scoliopteryx libatrix) and numerous Tissue Moths (Triphosa haesitata) have been noted in Ossom's Crag Cave, Radcliffe Stables, Elderbush Cave and St. Bertram's Cave. Two Herald Moths were observed in Whey Level, Ecton and in Thor's Cave. A few Tissue Moths were the only fauna seen in Sycamore Cave. (In the darkest corner of the entrance chamber.) At one location in Radcliffe Stables, a group of about 10 Herald Moths, several Tissue Moths and several Meta Menardi spiders (see below) were all seen co- existing in a small area of cave wall only about 30cm square!
Bats: In February 2005, a Whiskered Bat (Myotis mystacinus) was identified in Darfar Ridge Cave. In March 2005, an unknown species of bat was seen in the roof of the passage between the entrance chamber and Main Chamber of St. Bertram's Cave. It was right in the path of the inward blowing draught. Another unidentified bat was seen in the far right-hand corner of the left-hand branch of Thor's Cave.
Plate 20a. Tissue Moths. Plate 20b. Herald Moth.
Badgers: The Manifold Valley has a large number of caves that are occupied by Badgers. Some examples are Rabbits Hole, Darfar Crag Caves, Ladyside Cave and Nan Tor Cave. They are extremely active in the latter cave, with parts of the top of the cave dotted with small holes containing their excrement.
The National Trust have a limited quantity of bat and badger records for the sites that they monitor.
Spiders: The common cave spider, Meta menardi has been observed in Darfar Crag Caves, Redhurst Swallet, Ossom's Crag Cave, Radcliffe Stables, Elderbush Cave, Thor's Cave, St. Bertram's Cave and the top entrance of Darfar Pot. The less common cave spider, Meta merianae, has been seen just inside the entrance of Redhurst Swallet and the top entrance of Darfar Pot. In the latter cave it vastly outnumbered the nearby and larger Meta Menardi.
Plate 21a. (Left.) A common cave spider. A large pigmented trogloxene or troglophile. (Ie: they seek refuge or prefer to live in caves, but are not specially adapted to do so). Their egg cases are usually found attached to the cave ceiling. Plate 21b. (Right.) An example of an egg case of the common cave spider.
None of the many Meta Menardi seen in the caves in the area have built significant webs. However, in the dark zone of St. Bertram's Cave, a spider with very different behaviour was observed. Plate 21c shows a large web (about 15cm across) in the roof of the passage connecting the entrance chamber to Main Chamber. In fact there are two spiders, one below the web and one above. It is speculated that one might be male and the other female. The pair were surrounded by large Meta Menardi who vastly outnumbered them.
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Plate 21c. The unusual web and spiders found in St. Bertram's Cave. The arrow is pointing to the top-most spider.
The only other location where a web of this nature was seen was in the main chamber of Elderbush Cave. No spider was in residence, however.
Another type of spider was found in Elderbush Cave in March 2005. (See plate 21d.) This one was about half the size of the Meta Menardi nearby in the cave and like them produced little or no web. Note the two spots on its back. Two of these spiders were noted several metres apart in the same chamber. Comparison with photos of the more recently identified cave spider, Meta bourneti would seem to indicate that this is a different spider.
Plate 21d. (Left.) The new spider found in Elderbush Cave.
Plate 21e. (Right.) One of the Meta Merianae seen in the top entrance of Darfar Pot. Several of these had produced a spiral web.
Winged insects: Several different species of winged insect were observed, the most numerous ones appeared to be Gnats. (Possibly species of Fungus Gnat.) However, two of them were much larger and of different appearance and they are shown in plates 22a and b.
Plate 22a. (Right.) Unidentified Winged insect found in abundance on the roof of Darfar Crag Caves in the summer of 2004.
Plate 22b. (Left.) Caddis Fly (Order: Trichoptera) found inside Elderbush Cave in the summer of 2004 .
Fish: Unidentified fish have been seen in the entrance of Darfar Pot when in flood and also in the terminal sump in low- water conditions. It is unknown whether the fish in the sump are permanent residents or not. Fish have also been seen stranded in pools left when the river has retreated back up the valley after a flood. An example of such a pool being the one usually left around the new entrance of T-Pot.
Other creatures: Woodlice (Oniscus asellus) have been observed in Nan Tor Cave, Darfar Pot (top entrance), Darfar Crag Caves and Ossom's Crag Cave. A Banded Snail (Cepaea hortensis) was seen on the roof of a passage in Nan Tor Cave. (Presumably hibernating as it was February.)
The unidentified slug-like creature shown in plate 23 was observed in the entrance zone of Ossom's Crag Cave about 1.5m off the floor. It was about 3cm long.
Plate 23. (Right.) Slug-like creature seen in Ossom's Crag Cave.
There is potential for more work to be done studying the fauna of the caves in the area. For example, identifying species inhabiting the water of the many sumps or those which live on or in more recently deposited cave sediments such as those found in places like the main chamber of Ladyside Pot.
More study is also needed on the effect of habitat creation by cave diggers. For example, Darfar Crag Caves were almost entirely inaccessible until excavated by cave diggers. They were quickly occupied by badgers, spiders and various species of insect.
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3. The caves and mines of the Manifold and Hamps Valleys
3.1 Introduction
The Manifold valley contains a number of caves with features of special scientific interest. There are two groups of caves, the active caves (valley floor caves and Ilam Risings), and the higher-level abandoned caves. The most important of the valley floor caves are Darfar Pot, Ladyside Pot, T-Pot and Redhurst Swallet which provide excellent examples of recent and active cave passage development beneath the modern valley floor. These, together with the many other small (in both length and passage dimensions) caves, provide the only example in the Peak District of a new cave system developing under a valley floor and gradually capturing the surface flow.
The Ilam risings discharge all of the flow of the Hamps and Manifold rivers except in very wet conditions, (when there is surface flow throughout), and about 267m of active phreatic passage has been explored here to a depth of 54m, although the survey is incomplete. The explored risings provide a good example of active phreatic passage but are not known to contain any other features of special interest. There are a number of high level caves, of which the most important are Elderbush Cave, Darfar Ridge Cave, St. Bertram's Cave and Thor's Cave. Thor's Cave is a truncated phreatic passage with a very impressive entrance but no survey is available and the cave does not contain any clastic sediments or speleothems that have been studied.
3.2 Categories of Site
The underground sites fall into 4 major types:-
1. Active sinks. 3. Abandoned, relict caves. 2. Active resurgences. 4. Mines. (Copper, Lead and some Zinc.)
A complication is that a number of the sinks also act as resurgences in certain water conditions and vice versa if the entrances to sinks further upstream are blocked. Some of the mines intercept natural passages but, unlike some other areas (such as in the Castleton SSSI) these are not very extensive. A small number of the caves are actually at or near river level and in these cases can contain abandoned relict passages as well as active stream passages.
3.3 Some background history
Around 1892, Sir Thomas Wardle made an attempt to maintain a continuous flow of water along the course of the Manifold between Wetton Mill and Ilam by concreting over all the sinks in the river bed known at that time. (26). In an attempt to stop these concrete 'plugs' being blown off by pressure from below during times of flood he inserted large cast iron pipes.
Iron pipes
Plate 24. Two cast iron pipes in the bed of the Manifold at Ladyside Wood. (Note the water issuing from the one on the right.)
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Unfortunately (for him) over the years the pipes filled with leaves and sediment and lost their ability to relieve the pressure and eventually a number of the plugs were blown off by the underground river. At the same time the river found it's way underground in other places eventually making the concrete plugs ineffective.
Since the 1970's of course, the concrete has made it easy for cavers to find the main sinks, although even once found, getting into any sizeable passage below has often been rather difficult and has required the initial passages to be enlarged.
The author has been told that there was also an attempt to block the swallets in the Hamps Valley, this time with clay. It is unknown whether this is true and when it actually occurred, but would explain the large plugs of orange clay found in many of the existing swallets and also when 'new' ones appear on various occasions. (In 2006/7, the author has found several of these areas of orange clay in the bed of the River Manifold too.)
Fig. 9. Main caves and mines of the Manifold and Hamps area. Source: Modified from map in Caves of the Peak District. (67)
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Fig. 10. Map showing locations of caves in the Wetton Mill and Thor's Cave area. Source: Modified from map in Caves of the Peak District. (67)
Plate 25. An example of a concreted area, this one just downstream of Ladyside Pot.
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3.4 Descriptions and surveys of sites
The sites are described moving downstream. Ecton Hill area Hollybank Level is an excellent example of a mined passage containing actively developing speleothems. (See plates 26a/b.) The floor of the second (inner) half of this level is also covered with gour pools containing numerous cave pearls. There are many water inlets in the mine roof and a stream flows out of the entrance.
Plates 26a/b. Two examples of speleothems actively forming in Hollybank Level near Warslow.
Much of Dale Mine is flooded, but 351m of the main adit is still accessible. (See figure 11.) The mine was plagued with water problems when it was being worked (63) due to most of it being below river level.
Fig. 11. The accessible part of Dale Mine nr. Warslow. Source: P.D.M.H.S. Bulletin. (63)
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Ecton Mines have been designated as an SSSI for their geology and mineralogy and as a scheduled monument for their archaeology. The site covers approximately 1 km2 of the extensively mined region centred on Ecton Hill.
The site consists of a complex of individuaI mine workings and spoil dumps, some of which are connected underground and some have been excavated to depths as great as 400m.
Shallow workings have been demonstrated to have been worked in the bronze age around 2000-1500 B.C. The mines were extensively worked to depth for copper and lead from the 16th century, being abandoned late in the 19th century.
Above river level there are several extensive workings still accessible including Deep Ecton, Clayton, Dutchman, Goodhope and Waterbank Mines. However, large areas of the mines are now fIooded as they are below river level or otherwise inaccessible.
Plate 27. 'The Workshop' in Clayton Mine. (Photo by David Webb.) The Ecton Mines would be of great interest to recreational cavers as they contain pitches, large chambers, through trips, etc. They would also be of great interest to people interested in mines from a historical point of view as they have workings from a variety of dates, including underground engine chambers and soughs from the 18th century when these mines were some of the deepest and richest copper mines in Britain. Some of the mines contain actively developing speleothems. (See plate 28 for an example.)
Unfortunately, access is not currently available and the mines' futures are uncertain.
A small, but archaeologically important cave some distance south of the Mines is Sycamore Cave/Ecton Hill Cave, situated high on the west side of the valley running north-east from Wetton Mill towards Manor House and Back of Ecton.
Plate 28. Flowstone in Good Hope Level. (Photo by David Webb.)
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Fig. 12. Mines of the Ecton Hill area. Source: Caves of the Peak District. (67)
Plate 29a. (Below left.) The gated entrance to Clayton Adit. With up to knee deep water, this adit leads to an underground winding and pumping chamber and a long adit to Waterbank Mine. There are also passages leading to the foot of Chadwick Shaft 30m below the surface. The person opening the gate is the late Geoff Cox. (Photo by David Webb.)
Plate 29b. (Below right.) Inside Clayton Adit. Note the stone lined walls with arched roof. (Photo by David Webb.)
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Wetton Mill area
The Wetton Mill area contains a large number of caves, both active river caves and abandoned higher-level relict caves. There is also at least one cave (Moonmilk Pot) which is part active, part-relict as it is actually situated at river level.
The first cave to be encountered is Nan Tor Cave which is situated behind Wetton Mill in a small reef knoll several metres above the level of the present-day river bed. The knoll is riddled with solutional cavities of all shapes and sizes most of which are phreatic in appearance, but there are some signs of vadose- type development in the main cave entrance. The cave is probably a much earlier version of the current main sink which has long since been truncated by the river. Archaeological deposits have been excavated from this cave. Above the field on the left-bank of the river just downstream of Wetton Mill and near the public footpath which ascends here is the gated Mill Cave and Pot which has been archaeologically and speleologically excavated. Plate 30. Nan Tor Cave.
At the bottom end of the same field and about 3m above river level is Darfar Crag Swallet (40m long), emptied of household rubbish by cavers in the 1980's for 9m, (a very unpleasant and hazardous task), and dug to a small draughting passage approaching Darfar Pot. (See figure 13.) This cave is believed to be the one descended and described by Wilson in 1926. (37). The actual base of the shaft has not yet been reached, the present floor consisting of compacted inwashed silt. The cave Original fill level was recorded as being 27m deep in a 1953 publication, (68), with a 15m rope pitch leading to a 9m descent to a clay bank and 20m of passage to a pool/waterfall.
Plate 31. The entrance shaft of Darfar Crag Swallet.
Opposite Wetton Mill, the Hoo Brook flows into the River Manifold. A short way up the Hoo Valley lie the Hoo Valley Mine Levels. The northern one, (thought to originally be part of Botstone Mine and 127m long), contains cave pearls and other floor formations and has been gated by the National Trust. There were plans to gate the other (southern) entrance as stacked deads near the entrance were deemed to be unstable. The northern mine is rumoured to have gone through the hill into the Manifold Valley and in fact there is a level of some kind just north of Wetton Mill at the foot of a crag near the road which was filled with rubbish during the 1970's and 80's in a similar manner to Darfar Crag Swallet. A short way west of the Hoo Valley Mine Levels is the 200m long Perseverance Mine (original name unknown) which has been gated by the National Trust due to the presence of delicate artifacts.
The River Manifold flows past Wetton Mill and in summer months sinks into the boulders at numerous places along the foot of Darfar Crag. This is the main sink area or Wetton Mill Sink and in the upstream corner is the original (river) entrance to Darfar Pot which is about 366m long and consists mostly of large rift chambers such as Glory Chamber, connected by narrower rift passages some of these requiring ropes or ladders. An example is the 17m deep Pedigree Pot. At the bottom of Darfar Pot all the passages converge on the Toboggan Run, (see plate 32), a steeply descending tube which leads to the terminal sump 42m below the river bed. While investigating the sump, divers have reported the presence of fish of unidentified types and in 1990, the sump was explored by divers for 40m until it got too narrow to follow.
Up a slope to the right of the river entrance is a gully containing the top entrance to Darfar Pot. This gully is a collapsed cave passage, the remains of the walls blocking the main downward continuation of the passage. The connection with the cave below was established in 1996, (via 3 pitches), making the cave about 53m deep. In April 2007, a new section of stream passage, (Prospect Streamway), was found running underneath Moonmilk Pot and almost connecting with Riverside Swallet. (See figure 13.)
There are a number of places in the cave where extensions might be possible. The Wind Tunnel in Darfar Pot and the far end of Darfar Crag Swallet almost certainly meet up. (See figure 13.) There are a number of high- level rifts which haven't yet been surveyed and may reveal new passage if explored more thoroughly. There is also an unentered too-tight passage leading to an 8m waterfall to the right of the top of Canyon 1. Also in the floor of Prospect Chamber is a narrow descending rift with the roar of water coming from it.
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In the right-hand side of the gully containing the top entrance to Darfar Pot is the 4m concreted shaft leading into Moonmilk Pot. The main chamber of which is situated at river level and contains some nice, though immature formations with moonmilk on the walls. In the floor is a blocked passage which sumps when the river floods. It is thought that this should link with the newly discovered Prospect Streamway in Darfar Pot.
20m downstream of Darfar Pot is Riverside Swallet which is 46m long and 15m deep ending in large, unstable blocks near Darfar Pot. The water from Riverside Swallet flows into Darfar Pot via Prospect Streamway. At the bottom of the main passage and off to the right-hand side is the 16m high Tumbledown Aven, (discovered in 1990), which was climbed by cavers to a clay blockage. A waterfall normally enters about 3m up one wall. The aven is thought to lie underneath the next gully downstream of the one situated above Darfar Pot.
Further downstream still, just beyond the second gully in the crag is the 9m deep near vertical shaft of Riverside 2, which was excavated down a joint in the river bed, but no horizontal development has yet been found. When the river is sinking nearby, the roar of water can be heard all around.
There are several more swallets between here and where the river crosses under the road, but at all points the river sinks into narrow joints in the river bed.
The hillside along which the river runs at this point is called Darfar Ridge and near the southern tip of it are Darfar Crag Caves and Darfar Ridge Cave. The latter cave contains important archaeological deposits. The former caves were entirely dug open by cavers in the late 1980's.
Plate 32. The Toboggan Run in Darfar Pot.
Plate 33. The formations in the grotto in Aussie Chamber (Darfar Ridge Cave) as they were found by the original explorers. Most of them were broken to varying extents by vandals in the 1980's, due to the ease of access to the new series caused by excessive excavation of the entrance passage.
Darfar Ridge Cave was initially opened up by archaeologists, but in the early 1980's the well-decorated New Series was discovered by cavers after several hours of digging at the far end of the most northern passage. As is the case in many similar situations, a draught detected by the cavers indicated significant passage beyond the current end of the cave. In this case, the draught blew from a small hole in the clay floor of the passage and its enlargement allowed the cavers to progress along a small tube, round an awkward U-bend and ultimately up into the floor of Aussie Chamber.
The floor of this chamber is composed of a cone of collapse debris which has stopped the ingress of sediment further into the cave. It is only due to this situation that the rest of the new series escaped being filled to some extent with sediment.
Darfar Ridge Cave is still one of the best decorated caves in the area, despite severe damage being done to the formations in the grotto of Aussie Chamber. It is thought that Darfar Ridge and Crag Caves were connected at one time, although it is not now clear which way the water would have flowed.
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Fig. 13. The currently known active river caves around the main sink area at Wetton Mill. (Unsurveyed high-level passages of Darfar Pot omitted for clarity.)
Plate 34a. A view of the curtain formations in The Graveyard in Darfar Ridge Cave.
Plate 34b. Some flowstone gour pools in The Graveyard in Darfar Ridge Cave.
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Fig. 14. Darfar Ridge Cave and Darfar Crag Caves.
Moving downstream from Darfar Ridge, past the two road bridges is another area riddled with sinks. On the right just before the bend is The Crater, now filled in. This is a series of narrow joints which can take the whole river under certain conditions.
The water from here flows into ECP Passage (first entered in the 1990's) in the next major cave, Redhurst Swallet, (274m long), the entrance to which is a little further along at the foot of Redhurst Crag. (A hinged filter gate has been installed over the entrance to prevent the ingress of flood debris which can block up the sumps.)
This cave is a series of fine undulating phreatic passages separated by sumps most of which largely dry up in summer giving access to the Drought Series leading to the impressive Pink Chamber. The walls of the entrance passages contain extensive scalloping showing they must have been exposed to vadose conditions for a considerable time.
It has long been hoped that a high level entrance could be found to Pink Chamber, but radio location between the hill above and a team in Pink Chamber disappointingly proved it to be 30m - 40m below the surface. There are, however, indications of a former connection to the surface near Pink Chamber, as Gritstone cobbles have been noted on the floor in places.
There are some immature formations in various places in the cave where the cave is permanently above water and the walls of Pink Chamber give the chamber it's name due to large coverings of moonmilk. Redhurst Swallet is another example of a cave currently part-above and part-below river level.
Plate 35. A photograph of the main entrance passage of Redhurst Swallet nearing the 'knife edge' showing the scalloping on the walls.
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After a few weeks of dry weather, Sumps 1 and 2 dry up and eventually an airspace appears in Sump 3 giving access to the Drought Series. Puke Sump in the entrance series also dries up quite quickly. These are all 'perched sumps' and there appears to be a number of sumps at a lower level which carry the main flow of the river in flood. Sump 4 is one of these, as is the sump in ECP Passage and the one at the end of Shredder Passage.
Sump 4 (Bullyhead Sump) is the current end of the cave at it's lowest level. A number of attempts have been made by divers to extend this sump, but have largely been unsuccessful due to its restricted nature.
Fig. 15. Plan of Redhurst Swallet. Source: Caves of the Peak District. (67)
A small cave (Redhurst Upper Cave) lies near the top of the crag above Redhurst Swallet and on the hillside above and to the right of Redhurst Swallet is Ossom's Crag containing two archaeologically important caves; Ossom's Crag Cave (18m long) and Ossom's Eyrie. The former has some fine features of phreatic passage formation.
Further downstream and part way up a dry gully where the road bends sharp right and starts to climb up towards Wetton is Old Hannah's Hole, (originally known as Old Anna Woman's Hall), a rift or fissure type cave up to 6m high which has been described in the archaeology section. The walls are covered in places by interesting fungal growths.
Opposite the point at which the track leaves the road on it's way towards Thor's Cave, is a steep-sided valley which leads to the Back of Ecton. This valley only carries a stream for it's entire length in very wet weather, the stream quickly retreating back up the valley again. The only place the stream has been seen sinking in it's lower reaches is at the sharp bend at the foot of Darfar Ridge. For a long time it has sunk for most of the year among boulders about mid-way between the sharp bend and the end of the road at Back of Ecton. In January 2005 however, it was observed sinking about 15m south of the road. The stream bed downstream of this point had grassed over considerably showing that the stream must now rarely flow downstream of this 'new' swallet. The 'new' sink area is about 105m above the level of the Sink area Ilam Risings.
Plate 36. The 'new' stream sink.
Continuing up the gully containing Old Hannah's Hole and along the top to where the footpath from Wetton crosses the dry stone wall is a little known and unusual cave which has been known as Wetton Hill Far Cave since it was first investigated by cavers in the early 1980's. The cave originally contained the carcasses of many sheep which had been disposed of by someone. Immediately inside is a chamber 3m long by up to 2m wide and 3m high with a way on in the floor to the north. Probing here with a pole in the 1980's caused the floor to slump and small rocks to trickle down for what sounded like quite a long way. On many occasions a cold draught had also been noted.
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Plate 37. Wetton Hill Far Cave.
The cave would therefore seem to have great depth potential, given it's altitude, (190m above Ilam Risings), and appears to be a natural solution cavity.
However, there are some unusual features on the ground outside the cave, which lead one to wonder whether they are associated with mining in some way.
It is also uncertain how big any passages below the currently known cave would be.
The last significant site in the Wetton Mill area is Wetton Road Swallet which is situated in the river bed at the first right-hand bend in the river downstream of where the Manifold Track leaves the road and heads off towards T-Pot, Thor's Cave, etc. Another large area of concrete indicates the swallet area with the entrance to the only significantly entered passage at the downstream end of it. A manhole cover has been concreted over the entrance. T-Pot area
The T-Pot system (around 200m long and 11m deep) is situated on the first left hand bend in the river between Leek road and Thor's Crag and comprises of T-Pot itself with its two entrances and Wednesday Pot which carries the water from Redhurst Swallet to T-Pot.
It is also almost certainly linked hydrologically to Kyles Folly and Snowhole. A further (downstream) section of the cave has been intersected down river at Project Pot.
Fig. 16. T-Pot and associated caves.
The original entrance to T-Pot took only a couple of hours to open up, and consists of a sloping joint leading down to a tight and undulating passage, (which originally had some desperate squeezes in it), and eventually into
- 40 - A Cave and Mine Conservation Audit for the Manifold & Hamps Valley Area the main passage itself. The squeezes were subsequently enlarged and most of the main part of the known cave explored.
Some years later removal of part of a thickly concreted section against the lower embankment, revealed a large vertical joint and what eventually became the new entrance to the system. This is actually formed on the same joint as that comprising Snowhole. Under certain high water conditions, when T-Pot is flooded, the water can be seen in the bottom of Snowhole flowing away from the river under the footpath. The cave is therefore an outlet to the rest of the cave system in this area.
In the main passage of T-Pot there are many side passages leading off, but they are generally too small to enter. Where the new entrance passage joins main passage is 'The Hole in the Floor' dig which takes the whole river under certain conditions leaving the cave just downstream (and lower) completely dry. The cave passages upstream (north) of this point in these conditions are sumped. It is currently unknown what route the water takes once it descends the 'Hole in the Floor' dig.
Footprints (rodent or similar animal) have been seen on the top of some of the silt banks in West Passage and they were still there the following year despite the river having been flowing along it's surface bed most of the winter.
Immediately to the left of where the original entrance passage joins main passage is what is believed to be the other end of Kyles Folly, although this has not yet been proved.
The water which flows through Wednesday pot and the original entrance passage comes from Redhurst Swallet. This was proved by a strong visual positive result to a dye test with the water covering the distance between the entrance to Redhurst and Wednesday pot (300m) in around 20 minutes.
Wednesday Pot (52m long, 5m deep) is the main inlet to the system, the water is thought to enter T-Pot through North and East Passages although this has not been possible to physically prove as the caves become too tight as they near each other. However, it would be possible to prove this with a dye test in the right conditions. A voice connection has been made between the end of North Passage and a cross-rift in the downstream passage of Wednesday Pot.
The upstream passage of Wednesday Pot has been extended several metres towards Redhurst and usually carries a strong outward draught. The passage (a high, narrow rift) continues wide open, but unfortunately just too narrow to negotiate and needs enlargement.
The roar of underground water has been heard coming from the river bed at a couple of points between the old entrance of T-Pot and Kyles Folly. No doubt there is more cave to be found in this area, although how big, is open to speculation.
Plate 38. The main passage of T-Pot near 'The Hole in the Floor' dig. Plate 39. A view of East Passage showing roots Plate 40. The entrance to 'The Hole in the
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hanging down from the roof. This shows how near Floor' dig which takes the whole river under the surface it is. certain conditions leaving the cave just downstream (and lower) completely dry.
Thor's Cave area
The best known caves in Thor's Crag (including Thor's Cave itself, Thor's Fissure Cave, Seven Ways Cave and Elderbush Cave) are all abandoned high-level relict caves. At the foot of the crag however, Radcliffe Stables is only 9m above river level and it appears that the lowest point of the floor of the new chamber appears to flood when the river is flowing.
Until the early 1990's, Radcliffe Stables ended after 15m in a continuing, but impenetrable rift. However, a slight draught was detected and after enlargement for several metres around a couple of sharp bends a breakthrough was eventually made into a comparatively large chamber.
The walls of Main Chamber are well decorated with moonmilk (see plate 42) and there is a blocked continuation in its lowest corner which carries a slight draught. Two attempts to dig a way down this continuation suffered setbacks when the excavated fill slumped back in again after the river flooded. It would be very interesting to find out what lies beyond this point. Shortly after Plate 41. The West Window cavers broke through into the new chamber, the cave was of Thor's Cave. occupied by Badgers, who proceeded to turn the cave into a filthy place to negotiate, with the floor covered in faeces. A hinged gate was fitted just before the original end of the cave which only opened outwards in the hope that the badgers would leave the cave and then not be able to get back in again. A visit to the cave in April 2004 revealed that there was currently no evidence of ejected badger bedding, so it is possible that they have left the cave for good.
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Plate 42. The new Main Chamber of Radcliffe Stables looking back towards the entrance. Note the white moonmilk on the walls.
The only cave in the river bed at this point is currently Bent Chisel Pot, situated a little way downstream of Radcliffe Stables at the foot of a small crag. An entrance was created through a thick concrete plug and the joint underneath excavated for several metres to a corner. The water has been seen sinking and resurging here. There have been reports of occasions when collapses in the river bed in this area have occurred, revealing promising looking passages, but which have subsequently been filled in by the river and lost. No sign exists of them today.
Plate 43. (Left.) The entrance of Elderbush Cave. The arrow is pointing to the stalagmite used for the dating experiments.
Fig 17. (Below.) Survey of Radcliffe Stables after the latest discoveries.
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Ladyside Pot to Weag's Bridge
Discovered in 1975, Ladyside Pot (2) is the longest cave in the valley at 457m. (Depth 21m.) Like some of the other caves in the river bed it frequently acts as a resurgence, though at the time of writing this report the source of the water has not yet been proved. Occasionally, it also acts as a sink, usually during the autumn when fallen leaves can temporarily block the swallets further upstream. In fact the author has been down the cave while the river was flowing along it's surface bed past the entrance as well as through the cave, the underground water being found to be flowing along the floor of the main passage some 15m below the river bed!
Fig 18. Plan of Ladyside Pot. Source: Caves of the Peak District. (67)
The main chamber of Ladyside Pot is particularly impressive with huge silt banks lying on top of piles of boulders through which the river flows. The upstream passage (between sumps 1 and 2 is a fine walking size passage, while downstream consists largely of high rifts connected by narrow tubes and sumps. It can take many hours to get to the far downstream end of the cave. (2). The entrance lies just upstream of another large concreted area.
In the right-hand side of the river bed between Ladyside Pot and Weag's Bridge where Ladyside Brook flows under the path are several small swallets in the river bed. Under mild flood conditions a large amount of water has been seen resurging here, the water often having a different colour to that of the river. This has led to speculation as to where this water is coming from and even to the possibility of it being Hamps water, not Manifold. The source of most of the water is still currently unknown, the exception being that from Deepdale Shacks as proved by a dye test.
Near the end of the next straight section of river bed in the left-hand bank, is Magic Mushroom Resurgence, so named due to the large mushroom of water normally seen resurging from it in times of flood. There are several other resurgences in the same bank nearby. None of these were affected when the dye test between Ladyside Pot and Weag's Bridge Resurgence was carried out. Until the late 1990's, Weag's Bridge Resurgence was a single rift passage, 18m long to a descending joint too narrow to negotiate. However, work by cavers has seen the joint enlarged and descended for several metres to a slightly larger section. A large volume of water emerges from this site in flood conditions, the water having been proved (by dye testing) to come from Ladyside Pot taking about 2 hours to complete the distance.
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Beeston Tor area
The next caves in the valley are in Beeston Tor. They are all relict caves and include Pritchard's Cave, Hayhole, Jackdaws Cave, St. Bertram's Cave (213m long), Lynx Cave (near the top of the crag) and several others. Despite their proximity to the river, a check of The Cellars (the lowest level passages in St. Bertram's Cave) in high flood conditions did not reveal any indications of a connection with the river below current passage levels. St. Bertram's Cave has some fine formations, mostly at the top of Skull Rift. Important archaeological discoveries were made in both St. Bertram's Cave and Lynx Cave.
Fig. 19. Caves of the Beeston Tor area.
Plates 44 and 45. The concreted area just downstream of St. Bertram's cave and (right), the entrance to St. Bertram's Cave.
Further downstream and high up on the hillside on the left (north) bank are Beeston Cave and Cathedral Rift, the latter known to have been archaeologically investigated by persons unknown at some time in the past. On the other (south) side of the river, near the top of the hill above the farm, is Old Park Hill Cave/Falcon Low Cave which has produced important archaeological material.
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Bincliff Mines Area
The Bincliff and associated mines lie about 2km south of Wetton on the north-eastern side of the Manifold Valley between Beeston Tor and Ilam and consist of both shafts and adits. The adits were surveyed by the Warwickshire Caving Group in the early 1970's (4) with subsequent work done on the shafts by the Sigma Potholing Unit (33) in 1974/5. The adits lie in the dense undergrowth of the steep valley side, while the shafts lie on the hill top between 300m and 320m O.D. Some of the named mines include Fallownesses Level, Fallows Level, Dukes Deep Level, Hurts Deep Level and Nutbush Mine.
Fig. 20. Bincliff, Oversetts and Highfields Mines. Source: Sigma Potholing Unit Journal. (33)
There are over 40 recorded open shafts and numerous run-in or collapsed shafts in the area. The open shafts range from depths of less than 10m in the Bincliff Mines, to the 68m deep Highfields main shaft. All the shafts were driven through solid limestone, hence only the top 1-4m of the shallower shafts and only about the top 10m of the deeper shafts are ginged. The shafts widths also differ widely. There is not much evidence of water worn or natural cave formation in the mines, although Sand Aven in adit 2 appears to be an old solutional cavity 8m high and now filled with sand possibly of glacial origin.
On the opposite side of the river, on the wooded hillside, is Cheshire Wood Cave which has produced important archaeological material.
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Robin's Shaft Mine
Situated on the hill top between Dovedale and the Manifold Valley just north of Ilam, this fascinating mine contains much of interest; From the unusually inclined entrance shaft which provides an enjoyable exercise in SRT, to the impressive natural cavities the shaft intercepts which take some considerable time to explore and are up to 20m high in places. The main shaft continues down to end in partly-flooded workings at a depth of 122m.
Plate 46. The main entrance shaft of Robin's Shaft Mine.
It is unknown whether the water which flowed through these natural caverns fed the risings at Ilam or the Dove via one of the now abandoned, relict caves such as Reynard's Cave.
Fig. 21. Plan and elevation of Robin's Shaft Mine. Source: Caves of the Peak District. (67)
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Ilam Risings
Situated in the grounds of Ilam Hall, the Ilam Risings are where the waters of the Manifold and Hamps reappear, along with that of several other sources of water. Because the cave passages are completely under water, they have to be explored by cave divers. Given the distance between the main sink at Wetton Mill and the Main Rising at Ilam, (around 4 miles), this site has the potential to become the longest sump in the country.
Diving activities
Below is a greatly summarised account of the large amount of diving carried out at this site to date by many different divers.
The first dives in the risings were in 1969 when a point 36m from the entrance was reached in Main Rising. During the 1970's several more dives were made by various people and by 1977, divers had reached 42m. Further attempts were delayed by the tragic death of Mike Nelson in September 1977 and it wasn't until 1979 that dives started again. Unfortunately, it wasn't long before someone else became temporarily entombed (in Raspberry Rising this time, just upstream of Main Rising), when a large quantity of boulders fell on him. Luckily, he escaped unhurt. The next day Well Rising, (a few metres upstream of Raspberry Rising, next to an artificial grotto cut into the rock and which issues Hamps water), was explored for 10m.
Fig. 22. The current extent of explored passages in Main and Hamps Risings.
Three years later, in 1983, Well Rising was extended to 16m of passage and Raspberry Rising extended by 4m to the top of a pot. In 1985 there was more activity, in Main and Raspberry Rising and also the previously undived Ripple Rising situated just downstream of Main Rising. During the summer Main Rising was extended to 90m at a depth of 14m and Raspberry Rising to 20m long and 4m depth. Ripple Rising was extended to 15m long.
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In 1986 Main Rising was extended to 140m long at a depth of -18m and Ripple Rising was extended to 110m long at a depth of 1m. No further work was done in the risings until 1993 when Main Rising was extended to 195m long at a depth of 30m where the way on became unclear. A survey which had been started several years earlier was extended to this new far point. Figure 22 shows that the passage was trending right below Ilam Hall.
In 1994, better conditions allowed Main Rising to be extended to 267m in length with a maximum depth of 53.5m making it the deepest sump in the Peak District at that time. The way on had again become unclear and diving again stopped awaiting better conditions. In the summer of 1995, a dye test proved that water from around 225m into Main Rising (at a depth of 35m) also emerges from Ripple, Raspberry and Weir Risings. The survey was extended to a depth of 46m.
A small amount of diving/underwater digging has also been done at Hinkley Wood Resurgence on the opposite bank of the river, where the water from Waterways Swallet resurges.
Risings
Plate 47a. Upper Rising (left) and Main Rising at Ilam.
Plate 47b. Hamps Rising at Ilam.
Rising
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The Hamps Valley
The bed of the River Hamps between Waterhouses and Beeston Tor is dry for much of the year, the river sinking in any one of the numerous places it can get away in the river bed depending upon how much water the river is carrying. This can be as far downstream as Hell Hole Cave, a small cave situated on the right bank in one of the few crags exposed in the valley, or as far upstream as where Rocester Road crosses the river in the middle of Waterhouses, not far downstream of where the river flows off the shales and onto the limestone.
In fact the river seems to have been sinking further and further upstream as the years go by. The article in the publication referred to in reference 26 describes this clearly. Published in 1918 the author describes how about 70 years earlier, (ie: around 1848), "a farmer took a farm in Waterhouses and there was always water right past the farm", but that now (in 1918) the water "seldom reaches it even at its highest point except in times of flood". Initially, it isn't clear which farm he was referring to, but he then goes on to say that "there is an additional dry bed of quite half-a-mile in 70 years", which would seem to indicate he was referring to Brown End Farm where the Manifold Way leaves the road on its way down the valley.
The limestone over which the Hamps flows is very different to that of the Manifold as it is very thinly bedded. This seems to firstly allow the river to sink into its bed at many more places, and secondly, to discourage the formation of larger stable discrete channels in the rock which would allow negotiable cave passages to form. Indeed, what seems far more common is for collapses of the river bed to form what are Plate 48. The current most upstream called shakeholes, but locally are known as 'shack-holes'. swallet. Visible since at least 1998 and may even be H1 as indicated on on the map drawn in 1983. (31). These collapses can be caused either by cavities being formed below the river bed which then collapse when they can no longer support the weight above them or by air pressure building up and the air then finding its way to the surface by the line of least resistance and into the water and allowing the water into the rock. Thus lubricated, the rock would then collapse into any underground cavities.
The author of the above article describes both of these causes and also some examples of very large 'shack- holes' forming in the river bed at Waterhouses. One of them appeared on the 9th. of May 1917 and the author says that water had been "boiling up" for several days, "a sure indication of the formation of a shack-hole".
This 'boiling up' occurred during a flood after a spell of dry weather and as the flood subsided the shakehole appeared and carried away the whole river. It was reported to be very deep and as the walls gradually collapsed in the hole grew to about 6m long and 4m wide!
Plate 49. The location of the '1917 shack-hole'. (Just downstream of the tree.)
The walls of the shakehole were composed only of "ordinary river gravel, shale and clay, small boulders, pebbles and sand". There was no solid limestone visible. The article also describes several other 'shack-holes' and their location in the village.
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Recent Discoveries
In 1983, an article appeared in the DCA Newsletter listing the swallets known at that time (31). An enormous number of them were found. The article described some very interesting sites and stated the intention to further excavate some of them. However, due to attention returning to the Manifold much of this intended work did not occur.
One swallet of particular interest is/was Lees Pot situated immediately below the then missing, but now replaced footbridge across the river at Lee House. This had been dug for several metres following the obvious beds down-dip and was the only cave found so far to draught very strongly. It was very reminiscent of the entrance to Waterways Swallet Fig. 23. The main swallets visible at the time of writing this at Swinscoe and an oil drum had audit. Many of the sites found in 1983, (eg: those in the area just been installed ready for a of Lee House), are no longer visible. manhole cover to be placed over the top. Unfortunately, one day the river flooded while cavers were digging it and it had to be quickly abandoned. A local farmer subsequently filled it in during the following week when cavers were not able to visit the dig.
In the late-1990's, several more swallets were found. (Or re-found.) The first was on the first left-hand bend downstream of Lee House and was named Hole Shades Swallet. A large quantity of leaves had been sucked into the entrance of it.
The second was a hole in the river bed at the next left- hand bend in the river where the bed downstream of the bend is significantly higher than that on the bend itself. It is thought that this hole had already been excavated by cavers. (Listed as Hell Holes Sinks in the latest 'Caves of the Peak District'. (67).
Plate 50. Hell Holes Sinks. Note the steep dip of the beds to the right. The 'second hole' mentioned above is in the rocks in the centre of this photograph.
It is not known why the river bed is lower on the bend, but is probably due to collapse of underground cavities at this point. Maybe a 'shack-hole' had formed in the river bed similar to the one described at Waterhouses, which has subsequently been infilled by the river.
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A third and more significant swallet was found near the right-hand bank a little downstream of the other hole. It was in solid rock and took a lot of water without it backing up, so it was excavated and extended down the dip of the beds and a proper lid was fitted. It was named Hell Holes Swallet and is currently the only significant negotiable cave in the river bed.
In 1998, a dye test proved that the water entering this swallet emerged at Ilam Risings. (See hydrology section for more details.)
Several more small sinks were also found between Hell Holes Swallet and Hell Hole itself, some taking a fair quantity of water.
Plate 51. The entrance to Hell Holes Swallet.
In December 2003, a visit was paid to the valley to have a look at the state of things. The river was quite low and dropping after the latest flood. About 30m downstream of the second bridge in the left- hand side of the river bed was a major new swallet taking the whole river, such as it was by this point. It was about 4m long and 3m wide. At the upstream and downstream ends were large deposits of the orange clay characteristic of many of the swallets when they appear.
Plate 52. The downstream end of the new swallet. Note the orange clay to the right of the photograph.
The author has been told by local people that an attempt to seal the swallets had been made some time in the past and that this clay is what was used by them to do this. (As opposed to concrete as used in the Manifold.) It is not known for sure whether this is true or not, or when the attempt was actually made, but it would explain the clay.
After taking a picture of the new swallet, (see plate 52), the author checked Hole Shades Swallet and Hell Holes Swallet and found them as they had been left, but with masses of leaves over them, obviously sucked down into any crevices where the water had been sinking into the river bed. Hell Holes Sink, (the hole in the middle of the river bed), was full to within a couple of feet of the surface again because it hadn't had a lid concreted over it.
The author then had a walk along the river bed which runs between the bridges past Lee House. Suprisingly, there was no sign at all of the swallets found in 1983 and similarly no sign of Lees Pot underneath the new footbridge.
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Related Sites
The cave sites below have either been proven to feed the resurgences at Ilam or are thought likely to do so.
Plantation Swallet Situated in the centre of Rakes Wood Plantation between Wetton and Alstonfield, this is a large swallet which takes several streams in wet weather. It has been excavated by cavers over many years to a depth of 60m through a dangerous boulder choke.
Gateham Swallet Situated north-east of Wetton near Gateham Farm, this is a large swallow hole which was partly excavated in the 1960's, but abandoned due to unstable walls.
Deepdale Shacks Two small streams sink underground close to Deepdale Farm a mile or so south of Grindon village. A number of attempts have been made over the years at digging these open, as well as widening a draughting fissure (Deepdale Pot) just over the wall from the road. This had been excavated to a depth of 13m by various caving groups by the 1990's and is a comfortably sized shaft with a strong metal lid on top. Initially dug through rocks cemented together by stalagmite deposits, the current base of the shaft is unfortunately in uncemented unstable rocks. Some of the water sinking around the farm in flood conditions reappears at the foot of Ladyside Wood in the Manifold valley.
Bredon Brook Sinks The Bredon Brook is a major tributary of the River Hamps. Like the Hamps, it dries up by way of a progressive loss of surface flow into a succession of impossibly tight joints as far west as the ford at Back o’ th’ Brook, where it flows off the shales. On higher ground just south of the brook a few small streams sink into minor swallets on the flanks of Pike Low.
Waterways Swallet Situated northwest of Swinscoe, near Waterings Farm, this cave acts as a flood overflow for the stream normally found sinking a short distance higher up the valley. It was first dug open in the 1960's to reveal most of the present known cave system. (152m.) Despite repeated attempts to bypass it, until late 2004, the cave ended in a massive collapse underlying the large surface shakehole nearby at a depth of around 40m. In December 2004, however, one of the digging teams finally broke though into a continuing large, descending passage beyond the boulder choke. This was named Blore Street by the cavers, and in March 2005, the team discovered a route into a large chamber, Toad Haul. Passages were found to lead off from the base of the chamber and currently end in sumps at a depth of around 125m. The stream resurges at Hinkley Wood Resurgence at Ilam.
Fig. 24. The original survey of Waterways Swallet. Source: The Lyre. No. 5. (2) The x's show where the new passages lead off. x
x
Hemmingslow Swallet Situated on the west side of the road past Cauldon Low quarries, this swallet was dug in the 1970's and 80's into a short length (30m) of seasonally active stream cave. Efforts to extend this extremely tight and strenuous cave have so far been unsuccessful.
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Gutterholes Located a short distance south of Hemmingslow Swallet, this prominent sink was dug in the 1970's to reveal a 61m complex of tight seasonally active stream passages and unstable boulder collapse areas. Here, too, efforts to extend the cave have proved unsuccessful.
Hoften's Cross Swallet (Red Scar Swallet) This active swallet at the end of a blind gully behind the houses at Hoften's Cross was dug in the 1970's. The dig involved removal of an accumulation of household refuse. The pitch and very short length of cave discovered (9m), led to a liquid silt blockage, and this remains the situation today.
Wetstones Swallet Situated just inside the plantation between Walk and Weaver Farms on the north side of the Weaver Hills, this small seasonally active swallet was first dug in the 1970's. It revealed part of a collapsed cave entrance at the foot of a small crag. Progress remains blocked by a mix of collapse and inwash debris containing an abundance of sandstone pebbles.
Calton Moor Swallet
Situated not far from Waterways Swallet, just north of the main A523, this cave was dug open by cavers who followed a steeply dipping bedding for several metres to a boulder blockage. It is very reminiscent of parts of Waterways Swallet.
3.5 Safety
Follow the guidelines given in 'Caves of the Peak District' (67) for equipment needed for exploration of caves and mines that contain vertical sections. Appropriate warnings are included in the cave descriptions in this publication. (At the time of production of this audit, a new edition is nearing completion.)
The caves in the river bed are prone to flooding and most of them fill to the roof. The western end of T-Pot only does so in very high flood conditions and the entrance series (to the Knife Edge) and passages beyond the 4 th sump in Redhurst Swallet also generally have an air space. The top entrance of Darfar Pot, (above the bottom of the first pitch anyway), doesn't flood either. Cavers are generally aware of these dangers and avoid the river caves in unsettled weather.
As far as loose boulders are concerned, the only place where there is any quantity of these is in the floor/right hand wall of Water Chamber and in the floor of Glory Chamber in Darfar Pot and generally they can be avoided anyway.
The other caves are for the most part in sound rock. Obvious exceptions to the above statement would be some of the old mines where stacked deads are encountered.
One other aspect of safety is that of the entrances. Where possible strong rectangular manhole covers have been concreted in place over the cave entrances. This not only stops any person or animal falling down them, but also keeps out assorted river-born debris which can quickly fill up cave passages and block them.
Where a cave entrance is in the side of a rock outcrop, (such as that of Redhurst Swallet or the top entrance to Darfar Pot), then a hinged metal grille has usually been fitted. They are not locked as such, just secured with a large bolt requiring an adjustable spanner (a Derbyshire Key) to open and are usually just there to deter the casual member of the public (or animals.) Again, if at river level they serve to keep out flood debris.
It has been the experience of local cavers that members of the public often walk along the river bed and remove the entrance lids or grilles and then fail to replace them properly. Obviously, this creates the risk of some person or animal falling down a vertical entrance or in the case of a horizontal entrance wandering in ill-prepared and either getting lost or suffering some other mishap. However in recent years, with the stopping of camping at Wetton Mill and the erection of fences alongside the Manifold Track at many places, this problem has reduced somewhat.
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4. Conservation
4.1 Introduction
Digging in caves and mines to find new passages can potentially disturb natural and archaeological deposits of great value if the diggers are not aware of these, how to recognise them and do not follow agreed consultation and good digging practice procedures. It should also be noted that permission from Natural England is required for any dig in a cave within an SSSI. See the 'Do you dig Caves?' leaflet. (Appendix 6.) 4.2 User Groups
The following user groups have been identified:-
Inquisitive public Cave Scientists Recreational Cavers Mining Historians and Mine Study Groups Cave Archaeologists and Antiquarians Nature Conservation and Wildlife Trusts
There is no real pressure on the caves from recreational cavers. At certain sites popular with the general public the passing of many feet causes wear and tear both to the rock, (not only making it shiny and dangerous, but also destroying fossils in the rock surface) and to the floor sediments. Nan Tor Cave and Thor's Cave are prime examples of this. The main concerns in relation to conservation relate to the caves above river level and in particular any sediments, archaeological deposits/artifacts and any speleothems that lie therein. Consideration should also be given to the various species of creatures that live within caves, such as bats, spiders and various insects. There may also be sensitive plants in the entrance zones of some caves. Mines sometimes contain features such as stacks of deads and timber stemples which are prone to collapse if disturbed.
The relative absence of recreational cavers in the area tends to reinforce many people's view that there are no caves there to protect except obvious high level features like Thor's Cave. However, as can be seen in this audit, this could not be farther from the truth.
4.3 Threats
The caves, (especially those in the main sink area and Darfar Ridge Cave), used to be very much at risk from campers. In fact, the only main damage done to the formations in Darfar Ridge Cave was done by campers. However, now the National Trust have stopped camping at Wetton Mill, this risk is much reduced.
Any industrial or farming development carried out on the surface within such an area could potentially impact on the water quality flowing underground. Luckily the Derbyshire Caving Association has a planning liaison officer who is contacted whenever planning permission is applied for within the limestone area and he is able to get the advice of local cavers as to the likely impact of such application and make recommendations to the authorities as necessary.
An area such as this is very susceptible to unadvised disposal of sewage and other effluent. It easily gets into the underground water flows if disposed of in the wrong way. An overflow to the septic tank at Wetton Mill was installed some years ago, which drained straight into the lower regions of Darfar Crag Swallet and the smell of sewage was quite evident. This risk has again been reduced by the stopping of camping at Wetton Mill. The sewage facilities there have also been refurbished in recent years further reducing this problem. At Waterhouses, the River Hamps frequently receives discharges of water full of grey sediment from the cement works and quarries and also runoff (containing oil, etc.) from the main road running along side it during heavy rain. The sewage works just downstream of Brown End Farm has occasionally been seen to overflow straight into a swallet in the river bed, (Whirlpool Pot), after heavy rain. The water smells of sewage and often contains items of a dubious nature. (Sanitary products, etc.) This is obviously a health risk. It is unknown where the treated output from the plant normally goes, but probably flows into a natural fissure in the limestone.
Plate 53. The grey sludge covering the bed of the River Hamps.
On occasions when a new cave appears in one of the river beds, often the first response of the landowner or tenant is to fill it in as quickly as possible. This results in the immediate loss of such sites, which of course are rarely recorded or the appropriate authorities notified.
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On several occasions it has been observed that burrowing animals, especially Badgers, have ejected bones from caves or other underground sites along with their old bedding. Badger excretion may also drastically change the ecology of a cave when they commence their habitation of it.
Inconsiderate and/or indiscriminate digging by cavers can destroy any archaeological evidence present in a cave. Finally, the careless use of Carbide, although rare these days, could also affect the ecology of any cave in which it disposed.
4.4 Cave or Mine Conservation Plans
The only cave conservation plan to date is for Darfar Ridge Cave and was drawn up to protect both any remaining deposits with an archaeological interest (in the entrance series and lower chamber) and the cave’s formations (speleothems) which are among the best in the Manifold Valley. Most of the work listed in the plan has now been completed. Examples of this are taping of at risk formations, protecting floor deposits and installing a gate to prevent unrecorded access, especially by inexperienced people.
Plate 54a. The locked and gated side entrance of Darfar Ridge Cave. (The gate was provided and paid for by the National Trust.) A key is available from the café at Wetton Mill upon signing a book.
Plates 54b (below left) and 54c (below right.) The top entrance of Darfar Ridge Cave before and after sealing. (The nature of the ‘seal’ is such that it could be re-opened by Archaeologists if required sometime in the future.) The gate is now locked.
Some work was done in 2003/4 to clean up the formations in the cave. The floor and formations in the grotto in Aussie Chamber have now been cleaned up.
Several broken sections of stalagmite/tite have been returned to the cave ready to be re-attached and work has also been done in the Graveyard taping a route through the chamber.
Some of the mud-covered formations on the roof and walls of the passage leading to Aussie Chamber have also been partially cleaned. Some of these formations have since become active showing that speleothems can be encouraged to grow again. There is scope for more work of this nature to be done. For guidance on the compilation of any cave conservation plan the NCA Cave Conservation Policy Handbook (9) should be referred to.
4.5 Access
For most details of access see the latest issue of the DCA access handbook (23) published in mid-1999 and regularly updated.
Access to the caves in the Wetton Mill main sink area from the road across the field is now possible due to an agreement between the National Trust and the farmer at Dale Farm. This is due to the creation of the Manifold Geology Trail.
Several of the caves in the Wetton Mill area, (ones that are easily accessible to the public, such as Redhurst Swallet, Darfar Crag Swallet, Mill Cave and Pot and Hoo Valley Mine), have been gated by the National Trust. The gates can all be opened with an adjustable spanner.
Plate 55. The gate installed over Darfar Crag Swallet.
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4.6 Conservation Measures
1. Conservation Plans, (such as the one done for Darfar Ridge Cave), should be produced for sites where this is deemed necessary.
2. There is a need to work closely with relevant landowners such as the National Trust and tenant farmers in the area. Education on what to do if a new sink appears in the river beds could be beneficial to all concerned. A leaflet could be produced explaining this and it could be circulated to the relevant tenant farmers.
3. Much of the conservation work that is required for caves in the river bed is simply entrance repair and maintenance. Since the first edition of this audit was published in April 2005, this has been carried out voluntarily by members of Darfar P.C. (Funded by D.C.A./B.C.A.) This cannot by relied upon to continue in the future. A regular check should therefore be made on their condition by appropriate organisations.
There was also an increased amount of cave entrance grilles being left off, but this has decreased since the new fences along the track were erected some years ago. Damage to entrances is still happening however, especially over Bank Holiday weekends.
4. An Information pack on certain sites within the area should be produced, showing features of special interest and to give information on procedures to follow when caving at the site.
5. Mining Legacy. Information needs to be produced about any work needing to be done to preserve the important mining legacy at any sites in the area. Plate 56. This shows what happens to the river caves when the entrance 6. National Trust Site Monitoring Scheme. This entails checking grilles are missing. the condition of all sites under it's ownership at regular intervals and is ongoing. However, the scheme should be extended to checking the condition of the river caves if they aren't currently included in it.
7. Natural England SSSI Cave Conservation Monitoring Scheme. Natural England has a statutory responsibility to make periodic checks on the condition of the features, (eg: sediments, speleothems, etc.), within exceptional examples of cave sites in each SSSI.
Local cavers have undertaken to assist in this task and monitoring forms can be obtained from the Peak District SSSI Cave Conservation Monitoring Scheme website (http://www.peakcavemonitoring.org.uk/), a D.C.A. Conservation Officer or direct from Natural England. (See Appendix 4 for addresses.)
Cave sites currently chosen in the Hamps & Manifold Valley SSSI are; Darfar Pot, Darfar Ridge Cave, Elderbush Cave, Ladyside Pot, Redhurst Swallet and Waterways Swallet. (The latter cave is not actually in the SSSI.) Others, (such as St. Bertram's Cave), are also being considered for monitoring forms.
8. General information on the recognition of natural features and archaeological deposits and good conservation practice should be widely circulated amongst cavers and mine explorers. This should include cave wildlife. A leaflet could be produced and circulated for this purpose.
9. Interpretation boards should be erected in suitable places at Wetton Mill Sink and Ilam Risings explaining the natural features to members of the public. At Wetton Mill, a concessionary footpath could be created from the bridge, along the edge of the field to the main sink area. (This is no longer necessary due to the agreement between the National Trust and the farmer at Dale Farm to allow people to cross the field from the road to view the swallets in the main sink area.) Access to the river bed itself could be fenced off to help prevent damage to the entrance grilles, etc.
10. Minimum Impact Caving. Many of the cave sites dealt with in this audit have passages and chambers that are robust and able to withstand a reasonable party size. However others, such as Darfar Ridge Cave, are more vulnerable and require a more considered approach, and we would therefore recommend that the maximum number in any party entering this cave at any one time be limited to 4 including leader.
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4.6.1 Individual Sites
The sites are described from north to south. All of the entrances in the river beds need checking periodically.
Sycamore Cave This currently has two large rotting wooden doors in it, which could really do with removing.
Nan Tor Cave This cave appears to have become overrun with Badgers. Holes containing Badger excrement exist all around the top of the cave. This has only occurred since the stile over the wall next to Wetton Mill Café was removed and is thus a result of fewer members of the public visiting the cave.
Darfar Pot The grille over the lower (river) entrance is preventing flood debris being washed into the cave and blocking it. In fact the river bed in front of it has silted over and looks very natural, so the upper entrance should be used in preference. This also makes any visit to the cave much safer, as there's less chance of getting caught out by flooding or, for that matter, getting stuck in the awkward river entrance passage! The upper entrance surround has been repaired.
Moonmilk Pot The old oil drum entrance shaft was found to have partially collapsed when it was inspected in late 2006 and the cave was inaccessible. It was dug out by members of Darfar P.C. and a new concreted shaft constructed in place of it. A manhole frame/cover was fitted over the top. (See plate.) Photographs were taken of the inside of the cave.
Plate 57a. The entrances of Darfar Pot and Moonmilk Pot after conservation work completed in early 2007.
Riverside Swallet Riverside Swallet had an entrance shaft built of oil drums underneath a manhole frame/cover. When it was inspected in the summer of 2005, the shaft was found to have partially collapsed and the cave was inaccessible. The cave was re-opened by members of Darfar P.C. and scaffolding was then used to construct a new strong, long-lasting entrance shaft back to the surface. (See plate.)
Plate 57b. The new entrance shaft of Riverside Swallet.
Riverside 2 Had a manhole frame/cover installed over and was then restored to it's former depth by members of Darfar P.C. in 2006.
Wetton Hill Far Cave A simple grille which can be opened with a spanner was fitted by members of Darfar P.C. in 2006 to prevent misuse of the cave entrance, allow light to enter (for the plants) and allow access for bats and cavers. A dry stone wall was also built round the entrance area to make it less conspicuous from the nearby public footpath. The large quantity of rubbish littering the cave (mostly bones, metal, wood and glass) was also disposed of.
Redhurst Swallet A new hinged grille has been installed across the entrance of Redhurst Swallet by the National Trust. The rocks to the left of it were later concreted in place by members of Darfar P.C. in 2006 to prevent members of the public removing them. (See plate.)
Plate 57c. The new entrance grille and surround fitted to Redhurst Swallet.
Darfar Ridge Cave Work to tape off and clean speleothems in the new series has been completed. The cleaning of prominent mud-covered formations in the entrance passage should be continued to
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encourage the re-establishment of active speleothem growth in this area. This 're-activating' has already occurred on those formations cleaned so far. Some broken pieces of speleothem have been re-attached with varying amounts of success.
Plate 58. Photo showing some of the taping done in 'The Graveyard' in Darfar Ridge Cave during 2004.
Wetton Road Swallet The bottom edge of the manhole cover frame is rotting slightly, but is otherwise OK.
T-Pot The original entrance had a manhole frame/cover installed over it by members of Darfar P.C. in 2005. A large rock blocking the way down the entrance rift was also broken up and removed from the cave, restoring access. The manhole cover over the new entrance is still in good condition, despite being bashed with large rocks by members of the public in May 2007.
Snowhole Had a manhole frame/cover installed over and was then restored to it's former depth by members of Darfar P.C. in 2006/7.
Elderbush Cave Needs checking for rubbish regularly, as it frequently gets littered by visitors, due to its proximity to Thor's Cave. The rubbish mentioned in the 1st edition of this audit was removed by members of Darfar P.C. in late 2006.
Bent Chisel Pot Has had a manhole frame/cover installed over it and was then restored to it's former depth by members of Darfar P.C.
Ladyside Pot A new hinged grille was concreted over the entrance of Ladyside Pot by members of Darfar P.C. in early 2006. A small amount of cementing remains to be done around the entrance. (See plate.)
Plate 59. The new hinged grille on the entrance of Ladyside Pot.
Magic Mushroom Resurgence Had a metal grille installed over it by members of Darfar P.C. in summer 2006. Some concreting remains to be done around the entrance.
Weag's Bridge Resurgence Could do with a grille placing over the entrance, to prevent anyone filling in the entrance or animals from falling into it. However, as it is not near the footpath this is a low priority.
St. Bertram's Cave The walls of this cave are covered with dried-on mud from decades of visiting cavers. It is suggested that a clean-up operation similar to that in Darfar Ridge Cave be undertaken to return the walls of at least some of the main passages to their original state. A similar operation should also be carried out on the fine flowstone speleothems located at the top of Skull Rift and also on some inscriptions discovered in August 2007. Just before the production of this audit, approval was gained from the National Trust and Natural England for members of Darfar P.C. to carry out this work.
Waterways Swallet It is suggested that the state of the boulders in the entrance series and the state of the route through the doghouse choke into the new extension be regularly monitored. A visit by members of Darfar P.C. in spring 2007, found that some of the rocks in the side of the first climb down in the entrance boulder choke had moved, possibly due to increased numbers of visitors to the cave since the new extension was broken into. Hamps Valley
Hell Hole Swallet The entrance manhole frame/cover is currently in excellent condition.
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5. Bibliography
1. The Geomorphology of the Dove-Manifold Region by Dr G.T. Warwick. (1953). (Unpublished Ph.D. Thesis - Universityof Birmingham.)
2. The Lyre No. 5 by the Orpheus Caving Club. (1981).
3. The Geology of the Country around Ashbourne & Cheadle. (British Geological Survey, 1998, ch. 3, various pages).
4. P.D.M.H.S. Bulletin Vol. 5, Part 5, (pp258-70, 1974). A preliminary survey of the Bincliff Lead Mines by P.D.Pedrick & G..Chapman.
5. Manifold Valley Caves Survey (1989) by G.C.Guilbert & S.A.Lucy of the Trent and Peak Archaeological Trust. (Unpublished, copy held by National Trust.)
6. Open Countryside - Part C Recreational Activities 1995 (Caving and Potholing) by The National Trust.
7. Descent no. 135 (1997, p18), Martin Milner.
8. Descent no.141 (1998, p12), Martin Milner.
9. N.C.A. Cave Conservation Policy Handbook. NCA, 1997.
10. Karst and Caves of Great Britain by A.C. Waltham, M.J. Simms, A.R. Farrant & H.S. Goldie. Geological Conservation Review Series No. 12, Pub. Champan & Hall 1997 for the Joint Nature Conservation Committee.
11. Caves and Cave Life by Philip Chapman. The New Naturalist Library. Harper Collins (1993).
12. The excavation at Elderbush Cave, Wetton, Staffs. By D. Bramwell. North Staffordshire Journal of Field Studies, vol 4,pp 46 – 60.
13. The Quaternary Evolution of the Southern Pennines by P. Rowe, T. Austin & T.C. Atkinson. Transactions of the British Cave Research Association (Cave Science), vol 16 (3), pp 117 – 121.
14. Caves and the County Naturalists’ Trusts by N.D. Riley. Studies in Speleology. (The Journal of the William Pengelly Cave Studies Trust). Vol 1, pp 149 – 152.
15. Dry Valleys of the Southern Pennines by Dr. G.T. Warwick. (1964), Erkunde 18, pp 116 – 123.
16. Anomalous Limestone Gorges in Derbyshire by T.D. Ford & C.V. Burek. (1976), Mercian Geologist (6), pp 59 – 66.
17. The Caves of the Dove & Manifold Valleys by J.E. Potts in Limestones & Caves of the Peak District. (ed. T.D. Ford), Geo Books 1977.
18. Archaeology and Paleontology by D. Bramwell in Limestones & Caves of the Peak District. (ed. T.D. Ford), Geo Books1977.
19. Applications of dating to denudation chronology and landscape evolution by T.C. Atkinson & P.J. Rowe (1992) in Uranium Series Disequilibria. (eds. M. Ivanovitch & R.S. Harmon), Clarendon Press, Oxford. Pp 669 – 703.
20. Caves and Karst of the Peak District by T.D. Ford & J. Gunn. (1990), BCRA Caves Studies Series No. 3. ISBN 0 900 265 12 4.
21. Cave work in the Manifold Valley, with a report on the Fissure Cave by G.H. Wilson. (1937), Caves & Caving Vol 1, No. 2. (British Speleological Association).
22. Cave Dwellers and Dens of Late Pleistocene Animals in the Manifold Valley by D. Bramwell. (1950), Transactions of the Cave Research Group. Vol 1 (4), pp 43 – 52.
23. Derbyshire Caving. (The Handbook of the Derbyshire Caving Association.) 1999.
24. Rodent remains from the Caddis-bearing tufa of Elderbush Cave. D. Bramwell & F.W. Shotton. (1982). Quarternary Newsletter 38, pp 7 - 13.
25. Radiocarbon dates from the Oxford AMS system: Archaeometry Datelist 4. J.A.J. Gowlett et. al. (1986). Archaeometry28, pp 206 – 221.
26. The dry valleys and underground river courses of the Staffordshire Moorlands: J. Clark. Trans. North Staffs. Field Club. Vol LII, 1917-18.
27. First report on the excavation of Darfar Ridge Cave. F.H. Thomas & R. Moore. (1962). Peakland Archaeological Society Newsletter 18, pp 7-9.
28. Second report on the excavation of Darfar Ridge Cave. S. Nicholson. (1965). Peakland Archaeological Society Newsletter 21, pp 20-25.
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29. SSSI Site Notification for the Hamps and Manifold Valleys. (1990).
30. SSSI Site Notification for the Ecton Copper Mines. (1999).
31. D.C.A. Newsletter No. 51. M. Milner. March 1983. pp 2 - 6.
32. O.C.C. Newsletter Vol. 12, No. 5. (1976). P. Allwright. Pp 18-19.
33. A Survey of the shafts of Bincliff, Oversetts and Highfields Mines, Wetton. Sigma Potholing Unit. M. Critchley & P. Wilson. Journal of the Sigma Potholing Unit. 1975. pp 16-26.
34. The diggings in Old Hannah's Cave. Sir Thomas Wardle. Trans. North Staffs. Field Club. Vol 33, 1898-9. pp 105-116.
35. The exploration of Thor's Cave. E.Brown. Trans. Midland Scientific Association. 1865. pp 1-6, 19-20, 70-71.
36. An Account of the excavations and discoveries in Thor's Cave, Wetton Dale, near Dovedale, Derbyshire. S. Carrington. 'The Reliquary'. Vol 6. 1865-6. pp 201-212.
37. Some crags and caves of Peakland. G. H. Wilson. 1926.
38. A gazetteer of English caves, fissures and rock shelters containing human remains. Chamberlain, A. T. and Williams, J.P. 1999. Capra 1, available at http://www.shef.ac.uk
39. Places apart? Caves and monuments in Neolithic and Earlier Bronze Age Britain. Barnatt, J. and Edmonds, M. 2002. Cambridge Archaeological Journal 12.1, 113-129.
40. Romano-British Cavemen; Cave Use in Roman Britain. Branigan, K. and Dearne, M. J, 1992. Oxford: Oxbow Monographs 19.
41. Report on work at Ossum's Cave for 1954. Bramwell, D. 1954. Peakland Archaeological Society Bulletin 11, 5-7.
42. Second report on the excavation of Ossum's Cave. Bramwell, D. 1955 Peakland Archaeological Society Bulletin 12, 13-16.
43. Prehistoric bone and pottery finds from Mill Pot Cave, near Wetton, Staffordshire. Ryder, M. L., Longworth, I. H. and Gunstone, A. J. H. 1971. North Staffordshire Journal of Field Studies 11, 39-48.
44. Seven Ways Cave - 1948. Bramwell, D. 1952. Peakland Archaeological Society Bulletin 8, 4-5.
45. Seven Ways Cave: second report. Bramwell, D. 1952. Peakland Archaeological Society Bulletin 8, 6-8.
46. Report on excavations at Seven Ways Cave 1952. Bramwell, D. 1954 . Peakland Archaeological Society Bulletin 10, 8-9.
47. Report on excavations at Seven Ways Cave 1953. Bramwell, D. 1954. Peakland Archaeological Society Bulletin 10, 10.
48. Elder Bush Cave - A report on the recent work. Bramwell, D. 1947. Peakland Archaeological Society Bulletin 1, 3-4.
49. Elder Bush Cave - A third report on the recent work. Bramwell, D. 1948 . Peakland Archaeological Society Bulletin 3, 3-4.
50. Elder Bush Cave - A fourth report. Bramwell, D. 1948. Peakland Archaeological Society Bulletin 4, 2-3.
51. Recorder's report on excavations at Elder Bush Cave 1948. Bramwell, D. 1949. Peakland Archaeological Society Bulletin 5, 3.
52. Excavations in Falcon Low and Cheshire Wood Caves in the Manifold Valley. Emery, G. T. 1962. North Staffs Journal of Field Studies 2, 33-36.
53. Cave Burials in Northern England. Gilks, J. A. 1989. British Archaeology 11, 11-15.
54. Report on the excavation of Sycamore Cave, Ecton, Staffordshire. Houdemont, M. 1991. Peakland Archaeological Society Bulletin 36, 4-9.
55. The Excavation of Wetton Mill Rock Shelter, Manifold Valley, Staffs SK 096563. Kelly, J. H. 1976. City of Stoke on Trent Museum Archaeological Society, Report no. 9.
56. Lead Mining in the Peak District (Fourth edition). Ford, T. D. and Rieuwerts, J. H. 2000. Matlock Bath and Ashbourne: Peak District Mines Historical Society and Landmark Publishing.
57. The Lead Legacy: the Prospects for the Peak District’s Lead Mining Heritage. Barnatt, J. and Penny, R. 2004. Bakewell: Peak District National Park Authority, English Heritage and Natural England.
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58. Prehistoric mining at Ecton, Staffordshire: a dated antler tool and its context. Barnatt, J. and Thomas, G. H. 1998. Mining History 13.5, 51-64.
59. The Copper and Lead Mines around the Manifold Valley, North Staffordshire. Porter, L. and Robey, J. 2000. Ashbourne: Landmark.
60. The development of Deep Ecton Mine, Staffordshire, 1723-1760. Barnatt, J. 2002. Mining History 15.1, 10-23.
62. Ecton Copper Mines under the Dukes of Devonshire 1760-1790. Porter, L. 2004. Ashbourne: Landmark.
62. Early use of gunpowder in the Peak District: Stone Quarry Mine and Dutchman’s Level, Ecton. Barnatt, J., Rieuwerts,J. and Thomas, G. H. 1997. Mining History 13.4, 24-43.
63. The Dale Mine (Part 1.) Lindsay Porter and John Robey. P.D.M.H.S. Bulletin. 1972. Vol. 5, Part 2. pp 93-106.
64. History of Wetton, Thor's Cave, & Ecton Mines. James Roberts. 1900. pp 10, 27 and 71.
65. History, Gazetteer and Directory of Staffordshire. William White, Sheffield. 1851.
66. Bibliography of British subterranean biology. ( http://www.bcra.org.uk/biology/biblio.html .) Compiled by the BCRA Biological Recorder, Graham Proudlove. Febuary 2002. (Last updated January 2004.)
67. Caves of the Peak District. Compiled by Dave W. Gill and John S. Beck for the DCA. 1991. Dalesman Books.
68. Britain Underground. A.H Thornber, R.D.Stride and J.O. Myers. 1953. Dalesman Books.
69. D.C.A. Newsletter No. 71. P. Mellors. August 1989. pp 2 - 9.
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6. Appendices
Appendix 1 - Alphabetical lists of underground sites within the area
The 'Page no.' column refers to the relevant page number in the latest 'Caves of the Peak District'. (67).
Sites in blue are inside the Manifold and Hamps or Ecton Mines SSSI boundary. Sites in green are part inside and part outside the boundary. Sites in black are outside it.
Manifold Valley Page No. Main Use Ownership
Beeston Cave n/a The National Trust Bent Chisel Pot 153 Recreation Chatsworth Bincliff Hole 153 The National Trust Bincliff Levels & Mines 153/4 Recreation Staffs W. Trust (includes Fallownesses Level, Fallows Level, Dukes Deep Level, Hurts Deep Level and Nutbush Mine.) Cathedral Rift n/a Archaeological The National Trust Cheshire Wood Cave 154 Archaeological Unknown Dale Mine 160 Recreation Peak Park Authority Darfar Crag Caves 156 Recreation The National Trust Darfar Crag Swallet 156 Recreation The National Trust Darfar Pot 156 Recreation The National Trust Darfar Ridge Cave 159 Recreation The National Trust Ecton Hill Cave/Sycamore Cave 161 Archaeological Unknown Ecton Mines 159 Mrs Cox of Ecton (includes Apes Tor Level, Bag Mine, Clayton Adit, Deep Ecton, Dutchman Level, Fly Mine, Salts Level, Waterbank Level and Whey Level.) Elderbush Cave 161 Recreation Chatsworth Jackdaws Cave 166 The National Trust Ladyside Cave 166 Archaeological The National Trust Ladyside Pot 166 Recreation Unknown Lynx Caves 168 Recreation The National Trust Magic Mushroom Resurgence/J-Pot 166 Recreation Unknown Mill Cave & Pot 168 The National Trust Moonmilk Pot 168 Recreation The National Trust Nan Tor Cave 168 Recreation The National Trust Hayhole (The Hayloft) 162 The National Trust Highfields Mine 153/4 Recreation Unknown Hollybank Mine n/a Peak Park Authority Hoo Valley (Botstone) Mine 163 Recreation The National Trust Ilam Risings 164 Research The National Trust (includes Main, Raspberry, Wier, Upper, Flow Gauge and Ilam Village Risings. Also Hinkley Wood Resurgence, Hamps Spring and St. Bertram's Well.) Old Hannahs Hole 169 Archaeological The National Trust Oldpark Hill Cave/Falcon Low Cave n/a Archaeological The National Trust Ossom's Crag Cave 169 Archaeological The National Trust Ossom's Eyrie Cave 169 Archaeological The National Trust Oversetts Mine n/a Recreation Unknown Perseverance Mine n/a Archaeological The National Trust Pritchard's Cave 170 Recreation The National Trust Project Pot 170 Recreation Unknown Rabbits Hole 170 Recreation Unknown Radcliffe Stables (Donkey Hole) 159/172 Recreation Chatsworth Redhurst Swallet 172 Recreation The National Trust Redhurst Upper Cave 172 Archaeological The National Trust Riverside Swallet (Sink) 173 Recreation The National Trust Riverside 2 n/a Recreation The National Trust Seven Ways Cave 174 Recreation Chatsworth Snowhole 175 Recreation Unknown
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St. Bertram's Cave 174 Recreation The National Trust Thor's Cave 175 Recreation Chatsworth Thor's Fissure Cavern 176 Recreation Chatsworth Thor’s Fox Hole 176 Unknown T-Pot 175 Recreation Unknown Weag's Bridge Resurgence 177 Recreation Unknown Wednesday Pot 177 Recreation Unknown Wetton Mill Hill Cave 178 The National Trust Wetton Hill Far Cave n/a The National Trust Wetton Road Sinks 178 Unknown
Hamps Valley Page No. Main Use Ownership
Bredon Brook Sinks 154 Unknown Hamps Valley Cave 162 Unknown Hell Holes Cave 162 The National Trust Hell Holes Sinks 162 The National Trust Hole Shades Swallet n/a The National Trust Hell Holes Swallet n/a Recreation The National Trust Lee House Quarry Cave 167 Unknown
Related Sites Page No. Main Use Ownership
Deepdale Shacks 159 Deepdale Farm Gateham Swallet 140 Gateham Farm Gutterholes 161 Recreation Unknown Hemmingslow Swallet 162 Recreation Unknown Hoften's Cross Swallet 163 Unknown Plantation Swallet 142 Unknown Robin's Shaft Mine 144 Recreation Hill Top Farm Waterways Swallet 176 Recreation Waterings Farm/ Okeover Estate Wetstones Swallet 178 Unknown
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Appendix 2 - Glossary of Terms
Adit (Level) - A horizontally driven mine passage. If driven to drain a mine, it is then called a sough. Allogenic - Formed or generated elsewhere, usually at a distant place. Autogenic - Underground karst drainage that is derived entirely from absorption of meteoric water into the karst rock surface. Anticline - A configuration of folded, stratified rocks in which rocks dip in two directions away from a crest. Apron Reef - Short reef resembling a fringing reef, but more sloped; extending out and downward from a point or peninsular shore. Aven - A shaft entering the roof of a cave passage. Cave Pearl - Rare, round calcite formations found in pools inside caves. The result of water dripping from above, causing small "seed" crystals to turn over so often that they form into near-perfect spheres. Dolomitisation - The process by which limestone is transformed into the mineral dolomite. Doline - See Shakehole. Dye Test - Dye testing is the method of tracing the water flow through cave systems. It most commonly uses the harmless green dye fluorescein and can be detected at very low concentrations by the appropriate method. Duck - A length of cave passage mostly flooded with water where cavers might have to 'duck' under the water for a few inches. Deads - Waste rock left by the activities of Miners. Usually found stacked in the roof sides of mine passages. Karst - Typical limestone scenery including caves and imposing reef knolls. Knoll - A small low hill with a rounded top. (Eg:- Reef Knoll.) LEAP - Local Environment Agency Plan. Moonmilk - A whitish soft claylike substance present on the walls of many caves. It is believed that bacteria (Macromonas bipunctata) and other microorganisms may play a part in the breakdown of the calcium carbonate and aid the complex process of conversion of the solids in moonmilk. Usually white but can be coloured by minerals in the rock. OLD - Operation likely to damage. Formerly Potentially Damaging Operation. (PDO.) Orogeny - Process by which mountain structures develop. Palaeo-magnetic - Palaeo means ancient. (Ie:- from a time before history was being recorded.) So Palaeo-magnetism is ancient (or remnant) magnetism. Pitch - A vertical drop (shaft) approached from the top requiring ladders or ropes to descend it. Phreatic - Cave passage situated below the water table. (ie:- the passages are completely full of water. Relict - A mineral, structure, or feature of an earlier rock that has persisted in a later rock in spite of processes tending to destroy it. RIGS - Regionally Important Geological or Geomorphological Site Resurgence - A place where the water reappears (resurges) from a cave system. (Rising.) Rising - See Resurgence. SAC - Special Area of Conservation. Scalloping - Concave depressions in the walls or floors of cave passages caused by free-flowing water. The upstream end of the scallop is deeper than the downstream end. Shakehole - A depression in the ground, often circular caused by collapse or downward (Shackhole) translocation of fine material. Sink(hole) - See Swallet. Speleothem - General term for cave mineral deposits (formations) including stalagmites, stalagtites and flowstone. Most are formed of Calcite which is precipitated as water that has previously dissolved limestone loses Carbon Dioxide. SSSI - Site of Special Scientific Interest. Stemple - Wooden beam placed across a mine passage to support waste material. Stratigraphy - That branch of geology concerned with understanding the geometrical relationships between sedimentary rocks and soils. Swallet - A place where water disappears (sinks) underground in a limestone region. Sump/Syphon - A section of cave passage which is totally flooded. Syncline - A configuration of folded, stratified rocks in which rocks dip downward from opposite directions to come together in a trough. Vadose - A cave passage which underwent most of it's development above the water table by free-flowing water. Vein - A body of minerals enclosed by rock.
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Appendix 3 - List of above-river (named) caves in the Manifold Valley on the National Trust's monitoring list.
Introduction
National Trust wardens and volunteers carry out a programme of monitoring of cave sites throughout the National Trust owned land in the valley. Some 78 sites are visited throughout the year, their entrances and surface features being inspected and photographically recorded. At sites where bats are likely to be present, these are also recorded.
The scheme was started in 1994, following the Trent and Peak Archaeological Trust (TPAT) survey, with the aim of assessing the level and nature of disturbance of the cave sites and to identify any particular problems such as unauthorised digging by people, or new sites of badger activity. Ten years of monitoring has shown that the level of disturbance has decreased significantly, with a current very low level of human disturbance and a greatly reduced level of animal disturbance.
Animal disturbance has been principally badger activity, which has stabilised since the onset of DEFRA population control as part of the 'Krebbs' trial, which aims to analyse the links between Badgers and bovine T.B. Culling was stopped in reactive areas in 2004 and we should expect the population to gradually recover. The threat of damage to the archaeological resources by badgers is currently an area which the National Trust is taking very seriously and seeking to resolve.
The sites are checked for any change in external appearance and for any evidence of digging activity, etc. It should be kept in mind that digging in a cave that is part of an SSSI without permission is an OLD (operation likely to damage) and is a prosecutable offence. (See appendix 6 and 8 for details.) Caves on this list are rated (low, medium or high) by the risk to archaeological deposits within them. The caves are listed in alphabetical order:-
Cave Site Risk Notes
Beeston Cave High Beeston Tor Fissure Caves High Burial Cave (above Darfar Pot) Low Cathedral Rift High Darfar Crag Caves High No digging. Darfar Crag Swallet (Wetton Mill Swallet) Low Darfar Ridge Cave High No digging between the entrance and Aussie Chamber. Falcon Low Cave (Oldpark Hill Cave) Medium Hayloft Low Jackdaws Cave Low Ladyside Cave (Ladyside Fissure Cave) High Lynx Caves High Mill Cave and Pot Medium Moonmilk Pot Low Nan Tor Cave Low Old Hannah's Hole High Ossoms' Crag Cave High Ossom's Eyrie Low Pritchard's Cave Medium Redhurst Upper Cave Medium St. Bertram's Cave Medium No digging at all in the main chamber. Wetton Mill Coope Caves Low Wetton Mill Hill Cave (Mine) Low Wetton Hill Far Cave Low
The following caves are on Chatsworth land and so are not under National Trust control, but they are all considered to be low risk.
Thors Cave Thor's Fissure Cave Elderbush Cave Seven Ways Cave Radcliffe Stables/Donkey Hole
Please note that low & medium risk caves are checked once a year and high risk caves twice a year.
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Appendix 4 - Useful Contacts and Addresses
Derbyshire Caving Association
Mrs. J Potts (Hon. Secretary/Treasurer), Derbyshire Caving Association, 3 Greenway, Hulland Ward, Ashbourne. Derbyshire. DE6 3FE. Email: [email protected]
British Caving Association
BCA, The Old Methodist Chapel, Great Hucklow, Buxton, Derbyshire, SK17 8RG. Email: [email protected]
National Trust (South Peak Estate)
The National Trust, South Peak Estate Office, Home Farm, Ilam, Ashbourne. Derbyshire. DE6 2AZ
Environment Agency
Environment Agency, Upper Trent Area, Sentinel House, Wellington Crescent, Fradley Park, Lichfield, Staffs. WS13 8RR.
Natural England
Peak to Trent Team, Endcliffe, Deepdale Business Park, Ashford Road, Bakewell, Derbyshire DE45 1GT.
Environmental Impacts Team, Northminster House, Peterborough. PE1 1UA.
Staffordshire Wildlife Trust
Staffordshire Wildlife Trust, Coutts House, Sandon, Stafford. ST18 0DN.
Staffordshire Moorlands D.C.
Staffordshire Moorlands District Council, Moorlands House, Leek, Staffs.
Emergency contact for Archaeological Finds
Dr. Andrew T. Chamberlain, Department of Archaeology & Prehistory, University of Sheffield, Sheffield, S1 4ET.
Chatsworth estates
The Estate Office, Edensor, Bakewell, Derbys. DE45 1PJ.
Peak National Park Authority
For archaeological/mine history advice contact Dr. John Barnatt, senior Survey Archaeologist at this address:- Aldern House, Baslow Road, Bakewell, Derbys. DE45 1AE.
Peak District Mines Historical Society
Peak District Mining Museum, The Pavilion, Matlock Bath, Derbys. DE4 3NR.
Darfar Potholing Club
Martin Milner, 7 Cherry Court, Burton on Trent, Staffs. DE14 3NJ. Email: [email protected]
David Webb (DCA Conservation Officer)
3 De Vere Gardens, Woodthorpe, Nottingham. NG5 4PH. Email: [email protected]
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Appendix 5 - List of RIGS sites in the Audit Area
Site Grid Reference Comments Designated as a RIGS as it is Lee House Quarry (west), SK 086 503 the Type Locality for the Hamps Valley, Waterhouses brachiopod Gigantoproductus crassivenia. Designated as a RIGS as an Lee House Quarry (east), SK 087 503 unusually fossiliferous Hamps Valley, Waterhouses example of the Hopedale Limestones. Designated as a RIGS as an Wetton Road Quarry, Grindon SK 094 541 example of easily recognised large scale folding in the Ecton Limestone rocks. Designated as a RIGS because Ecton Copper Mines, Manifold SK 099 580 of the historically important Valley, Ecton copper ore extraction and the visible remains of this industry. Designated as a RIGS asan Apes Tor, Manifold Valley, SK 099 586 impressive example of Ecton structural folding in Carboniferous Limestone. Designated as a RIGS as a rare Hope Marsh, Alstonfield SK 119 555 fossiliferous exposure of inter- reef beds in the Hopedale Limestones.
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Appendix 6
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Appendix 7 – SSSI Citations.
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Appendix 8 – Operations likely to damage the special interest of an SSSI
Ref. No. Type of Operation
1 Cultivation, including ploughing, rotovating, harrowing, and re-seeding. 2 Grazing and changes in the grazing regime (including type of stock, intensity or seasonal pattern of grazing and cessation of grazing). 3 Stock feeding and changes in stock feeding practice. 4 Mowing or other methods of cutting and changes in the mowing or cutting regime (including hay making to silage and cessation). 5 Application of manure, fertilisers and lime. 6 Application of pesticides, including herbicides (weedkillers). 7 Dumping, spreading or discharge of any materials. 8 Burning. 9 The release into the site of any wild, feral or domestic animal*, plant or seed. 10 The killing or removal of any wild animal*, other than pest control. 11 The destruction, displacement, removal or cutting of any plant or plant remains, including tree, shrub, herb, hedge, dead or decaying wood, moss, lichen, fungus, leaf-mould and turf. 12 Tree and woodland management+ and changes in tree and woodland management+. 13a Drainage (including moor-griping and the use of mole, tile, tunnel or other artificial drains). 13b Modification of the structure of watercourses (eg rivers, streams, springs, ditches, drains), including their banks and beds, as by re-alignment, re-grading and dredging. 13c Management of aquatic and bank vegetation for drainage purposes. 14 The changing of water levels and tables and water utilisation (including irrigation, storage and abstraction from existing water bodies and through boreholes). 15 Infilling of ditches, drains, ponds, pools or marshes. 16a Freshwater fishery production and management, and changes in freshwater fishery production and management, including sporting fishing and angling. 20 Extraction of minerals, including limestone, vein minerals, shingle, sand and gravel, topsoil, subsoil, and spoil. 21 Construction, removal or destruction of roads, tracks, walls, fences, hardstands, banks, ditches or other earthworks, or the laying, maintenance or removal of pipelines and cables, above or below ground. 22 Storage of materials against rock outcrops, in mines or caves, or against their entrances; or on vegetation of interest. 23 Erection of permanent or temporary structures, or the undertaking of engineering works, including drilling. 24 Modification of natural or man-made features, including cave or mine entrances, clearance of boulders, large stones, loose rock, spoil heaps, or scree and battering, buttressing, grading or seeding valley profiles, spoil heaps or infilling of caves, mines, sink holes and pits. 25 Removal of geological specimens, including rock samples, minerals, fossils and cave sediments. 26 Use of vehicles or craft likely to damage or disturb features of interest. 27 Recreational or other activities likely to damage features of interest. 28 Game and waterfowl management and hunting practice, and changes in game and waterfowl management and hunting practice.
Notes: * animal includes any mammal, reptile, amphibian, bird, fish or invertebrate. + including afforestation, planting, clear and selective felling, thinning, coppicing, modification of the stand or underwood, changes in species composition, cessation of management.
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Appendix 9. Site Inspection Report Form.
Feel free to photocopy this form as necessary.
Site Inspection Report Form. (Manifold & Hamps Area)
Date: Site:
External condition of site at inspection (entrance condition, etc.):
Internal condition of site at inspection (smells, air quality, signs of pollution, dumping, graffiti, vandalism, etc.):
Comments relevant to access:
Observation of Flora and/or Fauna (bats, etc.):
Site inspected by:
Name:
Address:
Completion of this form following a visit to one of the sites mentioned in this audit will greatly assist the monitoring of it's condition. Completed forms should be forwarded to the DCA Conservation Officer.
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Plate 60. Immature, active speleothems in Moonmilk Pot near Wetton Mill. (Only 1-2 metres above river level.)
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