[Market Trends] Vol. 21 No. 4 April 2011

W w Global Flavor Inspirations

By Christopher Koetke, MBA, CEC, CCE, Contributing Editor

Part of my responsibilities for overseeing culinary programs in nine different countries entails spending time in those countries, often dining with fellow chefs. Along the way, I have tasted new foods and preparations in the Adventurous Flavors, Wellness Foods Trending in 2011 context of their geographic home. Countless times, I have mentioned Overarching interest in flavor adventure and wellness is driving food and flavor trends in 2011, illustrating how worldly our palates are becoming and how good–for–you foods can also be that a particular dish or food would delicious and a little exotic, according to a new Packaged Facts and the Center for Culinary be welcomed in the United States Development (CCD) report. if we only knew about it. (Other Using CCD’s signature 5-stage Trend Mapping® technique—where Stage 1 trends are times, I have eaten foods that emerging from independent restaurants and Stage 5’s have landed in the mainstream—CCD were excellent, but would not find and Packaged Facts have identified eight culinary trends that will be attracting adventurous a home in this country; I just don’t diners and influencing product development this year. think Americans are ready for ant 1. Douglas Fir and other "Wild by Nature" Flavors (Stage 1). Nature is a new source for eggs, Guinea pig, etc.) But I’ve run fine dining chefs who are finding new ingredients by foraging in forests and along across many foods that I believe fit seashores, seeking new plants, herbs and flowers to flavor creative dishes and add a touch of the wild. Mixologists will join in the fun adding "wild" flavors at the bar. our food culture and would warrant 2. Cloudberry (Stage 1). This alpine and arctic berry is an element of trendy Nordic cuisine. being introduced to U.S. Traditionally made into jams and liqueurs, it’s now appearing in beer, wine and sparkling consumers. drinks. 3. Arepas (Stage 1). This South American vegetarian-friendly and gluten-free griddled cornmeal patty is tasty and versatile, such that areperias have already spread across Latin A spotlight on Brazil America and areas in the United States with Colombian and Venezuelan immigrants. One San Francisco-based Venezuelan restaurateur has turned arepas into trendy carriers for local foodies. Increasing global influence and the 4. Yuzu and Exotic Citrus (Stage 2). With lime already such a flavor standard, yuzu and upcoming worldwide sporting other more specialty citrus varieties like sudachi will offer consumers an exciting exotic events in Rio de Janeiro—soccer’s twist for salad dressings, beverages and condiments. World Cup in 2014, and the 5. Coconut Oil (Stage 2). Coconut oil has a positive effect on metabolism due to its medium- chain fatty acid structure and also is a great substitute for butter for dairy-free baking and Summer Olympics in 2016—are cooking. The fact that it makes stir–fried greens taste great seals the deal. propelling Brazil--and it’s cuisine-- 6. Popovers & Gougéres (Stage 2). American consumers are ready for new savory baked into the international spotlight. goods to freshen up the breadbasket. The traditional airy popover and cheesy French cream puff are positioned to be versatile, pop-able and novel. Brazil’s national cuisine is a 7. Grass-fed Dairy (Stage 3). Free of artificial hormones and containing higher levels of melting pot from different peoples, healthful fatty acids, products made from grass-fed dairy appeal to both health-focused including native populations, consumers and those seeking more natural, traditional and authentic foodstuffs. 8. Umami (Stage 3). American consumers are becoming more sophisticated about great Europeans (primarily Portuguese tastes that come from umami, the fifth flavor found in many fermented and aged products, and Italian) and Africans. Brazilian as well as seaweed, meat stock, parmesan cheese and tomatoes. Expect to see more food is further divided into diverse applications of umami-laden ingredients such as soy sauce, fish sauce, dashi and regional cuisines, including the mushroom broths this year. Amazon that yields an amazing variety of wild fruits. The açai fruit, lauded for its nutritional value, has found its way into countless products, but açai is only one of many. A quick trip to an Rio or São Paulo juice shop offers an array of fruits with intriguing flavors and www.foodproductdesign.com Page 1

[Market Trends] Vol. 21 No. 4 April 2011 textures, including cashew fruit (better than the nut!), cupuaçu, acerola, pitanga and graviola. These are ideal candidates to expand frozen-dessert varieties, dessert sauces, juices and smoothies here in the United States. Some of them are already imported as frozen pulp.

According to Teresa Corção, chef at Rio’s O Navegador, Brazilians were not originally wheat eaters, but instead were defined by manioc (also known as cassava; tapioca is made from the plant’s dried root). She has been researching manioc traditions (in conjunction with Rio’s Maniva Institute) and teaching it as part of her commitment to slow food and to highlighting traditional regional foods. Indeed, manioc is everywhere in Brazilian society. In the northeast of the country, pancakes, called tapioca, are made with 100% tapioca flour mixed with a small amount of water. They are typically folded in half with either sweet or savory fillings, and have a delightful, chewy texture. They could be a welcome addition to breakfast restaurants and brunch buffets. Puffed tapioca snack foods, called mandiopã—very similar to puffed snack pieces seen in the United States—are very common in Brazil. It is also important to note that manioc and tapioca can play an important role in America’s focus on gluten-free cooking.

One last mention before moving on—fish. Wholesalers are starting to import fish from the Amazon. In my Brazilian travels, I’ve found that tambaqui (also known as pacu) and pirarucu (also known as arapaima), both very large fish from the Amazon, deserve further attention. Dredging pieces of these fish in cassava flour before sautéing is a satisfying Brazilian twist on a French classic. And grilled tambaqui ribs and belly have a remarkable resemblance to their pork counterparts.

Chilean treasures

While Chile borders the Pacific Ocean for 3,998 miles and boasts great seafood, it was the country’s lamb prosciutto that struck me as a product ready for an American debut. Hgh-end, house-made, custom charcuterie has flooded the U.S. market, and all things pig have dominated many restaurant menus, but as we search for the “next big thing," this has promise. The lamb I tasted was silky and deeply flavored. Thinly sliced, it would be perfect anywhere pork prosciutto is found, on a or other sandwich, diced into a pasta dish, rolled inside a chicken breast, or on its own along with some appropriate garnishes and bread. And, of course, it could be a kosher or halal substitute for traditional prosciutto.

Another treasure from Chile is a simple spice blend called merkén, a centuries-old spice mix used by the native Mapuche. It combines smoked cacho de cabra chile, coriander, salt and sometimes cumin. I see this as the next step after America’s “discovery" of pimentón (blends of sweet, smoked and/or spicy paprika) from Spain, since merkén also adds heat to the equation. In Chile, merkén is sprinkled onto and used in a host of different dishes. For instance, its flavor profile is perfect sprinkled on seafood, added to an omelet, stirred into soup or sauce, or rubbed into meat. It might also be a unique flavor for crackers and flatbreads.

Just as Brazil has its own unique fruits, Chile has carica, which is currently imported into the United States packed in low-sugar syrup. Harvested in the country’s northern semi-desert valleys, carica is a bright-yellow fruit that has a sturdy texture, making it a versatile complement to savory and sweet preparations. Its texture also allows the fruit to be easily grilled or sautéed. www.foodproductdesign.com Page 2

[Market Trends] Vol. 21 No. 4 April 2011

Cocoa from Ecuador Ethnic Foodies Crave Exotic Flavors, Ingredients The small country of Ecuador is graced with four distinct regions: the mountainous highlands, the jungle, the coastline Consumers becoming more interested and the Galapagos Islands. Because if this geographic in trying out complicated ethnic dishes diversity, Ecuador has a tremendous variety of products, at home that usually would be prepared including many indigenous fruits. by a chef in a restaurant is helping drive interest in exotic flavors and ingredients, according to a new report One of Ecuador’s greatest products is high-quality chocolate. from market researcher Mintel. Because Ecuador has some of the best cocoa beans in the world, it’s no wonder that Ecuadorian chocolate is making a According to Mintel’s Global New name for itself. Certainly, gourmet chocolate is not a new Products Database (GNPD), lesser- known ethnic fare has witnessed strong trend. Companies such as Cacao Barry (owned by Barry product growth in recent years. Mintel Callebaut, Zurich, Switzerland) have already focused their tracked a 150-percent increase from efforts on producing terroir-specific chocolate. (Cacao Barry 2009 in new food items that contained has even moved from country-specific chocolate to plantation- ―Caribbean" in the product description; specific chocolate, as in the case of the extraordinary Alto el ―Japanese" product launches soared Sol in Peru.) more than 230 percent; and ―Thai" products launches saw a 68-percent increase. Ecuadorian chocolate is sold to the consumer in the form of chocolate bars which tend to be low in sugar and cocoa butter, The rise in product launches is but high in levels of cocoa mass, which mirrors the attention attributed to the variety of outlets chocolate has had from a health perspective. The flavor of the consumers have at their disposal to learn more about ethnic foods that chocolate is complex and intense. The labels highlight aren’t common to their ethnic geographical location (such as Manabí, Esmeraldas or Los background. Interestingly, 26 percent of Ríos), which is in sync with our attention to local and regional. ethnic foodies were introduced to the cuisine by TV programs, newspapers or In Ecuador, I sampled small-scale, rustic—literally house- magazines that feature cuisine from made—chocolate that could become a trend here. This other countries; 23 percent were chocolate did not have the refined flavors and textures of spurred to try them after reading cookbooks that included recipes for industrially produced chocolate. At the same time, it was dishes that are popular in other appealing for its individuality, which could find a happy home countries. Additionally, 18 percent of among our micro-local trends. food-lovers developed a taste for ethnic foods after travelling abroad; 25 percent Malaysian artisanal inspirations said they were introduced to their favorite ethnic fare because they live in a diverse neighborhood where the food Among the many varied foods and culinary preparations I tried and ingredients are readily available. in Malaysia, the tempeh I tasted was a revelation. Tempeh, a fermented cake predominantly made of soybeans, is increasingly common in upscale grocery stores and is widely respected for its health attributes. What I tasted, though, was the result of small-scale, freshly made production. It came wrapped in a banana leaf and covered with a white, soft, downy mold. Unlike some of the tempeh in the United States, it was flavorful and moist—and perfectly suited for a quick grilling and coating of sambal (pastes of primarily chiles and www.foodproductdesign.com Page 3

[Market Trends] Vol. 21 No. 4 April 2011 salt that tend toward highly pungent and aromatic and can include ingredients as diverse as kaffir lime and other citrus, vinegar, garlic, assorted spices, nuts, fermented fish products, etc.).

Already, there are small producers in the United States are making this kind of tempeh, but there are preciously few at this point. This cottage industry could grow much like artisanal American cheese. Artisanal tempeh production is a perfect fit for health and local trends.

Sambals have also begin to make some headway in the United States and can help foster new takes on Asian-inspired sauces for meats, poultry and seafood.

The flavors of Jordan

Jordan’s cuisine is steeped in tradition, and several products I tasted there bear further exposure in the United States. The first is the spice sumac, which is starting to make inroads into our culinary culture. Its acidic character, intriguing flavor and beautiful purple color are perfect complements for many products, such as meat, fish, vegetables and breads. Its appearance would make it a great topical addition to crackers and flatbreads. One common Middle Eastern dish that is seasoned with sumac (along with allspice and saffron) is musakhan, in which the seasoned chicken is baked with lemon juice. It is then served on flatbreads with caramelized red onion, pine nuts and yogurt.

Sumac is also part of the popular Middle Eastern spice blend called za’taar, composed of sumac, herbs (like oregano, thyme and savory) and sesame seeds. It is already used to a small degree in the United States, but we’ve not yet explored its potential. In the same way that we have Italian and Greek herb blends, or herbes de Provence from France, za’taar can be further marketed as the herb blend of the Middle East. Aside from seasoning meats, it could be routinely put into flatbreads, crackers and other savory baked products.

Another Jordanian product that could ride on the coattails of the mega trend of high-quality, small- scale cheeses. Jameed is a rock-hard chunk of dried goat or sheep yogurt that is stable at room temperature. In Jordan, it is an integral part of their national dish, mansaf (lamb cooked with the yogurt, then served with rice and flatbread). Once hydrated, the flavor of jameed expands, and it can be transformed into vinaigrettes and hot sauces, and can be incorporated into baked preparations.

The streets of

Of all the cuisines listed above, Mexico has most certainly had the greatest impact on our current culinary culture. While we have learned much about , , real and , there is still much to discover in Mexico that could influence our eating habits. Several street-food favorites have the potential to have a cult following in the United States, including ahogadas (meat drowned in orange tomato and chile sauce and served with pickled red onions), tacos (little tacos filled with spit-roasted meat and topped with fresh pineapple and salsa), and guajolota (a bun filled with a ). In line with America’s fascination with house-made sausages is verde from Toluca. These sausages, which are literally green from different fresh herbs and green chiles, make deliciously original (and colorful) . Another ingredient that has already reached our country is huitlacoche, which is a fungus that grows on ears of corn. Originally maligned www.foodproductdesign.com Page 4

[Market Trends] Vol. 21 No. 4 April 2011 by farmers here, this fungus is well-respected in Mexico (like wild mushrooms in the United States) and can be incorporated into sauces, soups, tacos, etc.

Perhaps the best way to conclude is with dessert. Numerous trend sources have already indicated that paletas, Mexican popsicles, are slated to make a big impact in the United States. Having sampled many of these firsthand, I concur. Even though frozen fruit-based bars have begun to show up on retail store shelves, what makes these appealing is intensity of their flavor. Some of the more- interesting flavors include mango (with or without chile), hibiscus, guava, tamarind, coconut and walnut. Expect these flavors to hit the U.S. dessert scene and impact frozen-dessert flavors in other categories.

Christopher Koetke, MBA, CEC, CCE, is executive director of the School of Culinary Arts at Chicago’s Kendall College and vice president of the Laureate International Universities Center of Excellence in Culinary Arts, where he is responsible for strategic leadership of culinary arts programs worldwide. Koetke began cooking professionally in 1982, and has worked in some of the world’s finest kitchens, including French restaurants Pavilion Elysees, Pierre Gagnaire, Taillevent and Pierre Orsi. He is a member of the Research Chefs Association.

Strong Ethnic Food Sales

According to a new report from Mintel, sales of ethnic foods in America have steadily risen since 2004 and are predicted to hit a record-high $2.2 billion in 2009, with 20% more growth forecasted from 2010 to 2014.

The largest share of the ethnic-foods market is taken by Mexican and Hispanic foods, with 62% of sales; about 6 in 10 people report that they have cooked Mexican food in the past month. But Asian food is the largest growth sector, with 11% growth from 2006 to 2008. During that time frame, Indian-food sales have grown by 35%.

Income and age are two demographic aspects strongly related to ethnic foods: 92% of those who responded to Mintel’s survey with annual household incomes above $150,000 have cooked ethnic food in the past month, and the same is true for 91% of those aged 18 to 24.

The economy has also likely played a part in this activity. More people are cooking at home and an increasing number of Americans are calling themselves ―cooking enthusiasts.‖ This creates a market primed for ethnic-inspired speed-scratch food products, like seasoning blends and sauces.

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