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Spain's Camino De Santiago & Its Natural History

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Spain's Camino De Santiago & Its Natural History Spain's Camino de Santiago & its Natural History Naturetrek Tour Report 20 – 27 September 2015 Report & images compiled by Richard Cash Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Spain's Camino de Santiago & its Natural History Tour Report Tour Participants: Richard Cash, Peter Rich (leaders) with a group of Naturetrek clients Introduction This was a fantastic week of hikes tracing the Camino de Santiago in the Aragonese Pyrenees, seeing a huge range of plants, birds and discovering the fascinating history and life of this area. All of the group were keen and fit hikers so we were able to walk some beautiful and out-of-the-way trails into the mountains. Accommodation and food was excellent at Casa Sarasa and, as always, thanks to Mel and Pete for their hospitality. Day 1 Sunday 20th September The flight arrived on time and we were soon on our way north, doing the short transfer from Zaragoza towards the Pyrenees. On the way we saw a Hen Harrier, Red and Black Kites and several White Storks. Once at Casa Sarasa, the guests were shown their very nice rooms and then we had a short introductory briefing and a drink before dinner. It was good to meet everyone and we had a convivial dinner talking about our travels, nature and getting to know each other. Day 2 Monday 21st September After breakfast, we made a brief stop in Berdún village where Pete explained a little about the village and its history and architecture. It´s quite a place, with some quite grand houses and a history going back into Ibero- Celtic times, 2500 years or more ago. We then drove up to the Aragón valley and over the border into France where we started our first walk, climbing the last part of the Camino de Santiago in France from Peyranère up to the Somport Pass. There were many Autumn Crocus in the grass, and the Beech and Fir forest was just beginning to take on autumn colours. Water Pipit called along the stream and there were quite a few wild mushrooms including Parasol (Macrolepiota sp.) and Puffballs (Lycoperdon sp). There were Grass-of-Parnassus flowers in the boggy stream fringes and plenty of Rosebay Willowherb. Once at the border, we had a quick coffee and loo break at our friend Perico´s bar and then continued along the Camino down into Spain. The first part of the trail downhill is always full of interest and we saw plenty – carpets of Devil´s-bit Scabious, Eyebright, and Greater Burnet-saxifrage, while a Dipper flitted down the stream. Red Admiral, Speckled Wood and a few Turquoise Blue butterflies were busy nectaring. In the Willows and bushes were Wood Warblers, Blue and Great Tits, Yellowhammer and Dunnock. We spied Citril Finch and Coal Tits in the Mountain Pines and Dipper and Grey and Pied Wagtail along the stream. At the ruins of Santa Cristina, a medieval monastery and pilgrims’ refuge, Pete explained some of the history of the Camino de Santiago in Aragón. This was a main route of the Camino de Santiago used by pilgrims coming from Eastern France, and it follows the route of the Roman road built 2000 years ago to unite northern Spain with Gaul. We continued down along the Camino and, once across the road, soon came to a good picnic spot in a meadow. Here we had the first of many good picnics of salad, local sausage, cheese and fruit, before hiking the last part of © Naturetrek March 16 1 Spain's Camino de Santiago & its Natural History Tour Report the trail down to Canfranc through meadow and forest. The Rowan and Whitebeam trees put on a spectacular show of red berries, there were Griffon Vulture soaring overhead, Kestrel were hunting above the fields and we put up a Green Woodpecker. We spotted Crested Tits and it was great to find Pyrenean Solomon´s-seal by the path. Eventually we came to Canfranc and decided to explore the old railway yard. Canfranc is a sleepy village these days, but from the 1920’s to the 1970’s was a thriving railway and border town as there was a rail tunnel between Spain and France. The tunnel was closed in the 70´s and the huge area of sidings and massive engine sheds is being steadily reclaimed by nature. It´s an amazing place, quite melancholy and really evocative. We also saw the remains of bunkers and gun emplacements built during the 40´s and 50´s when Franco set himself up with the Americans as the last defensive line against a possible Russian invasion of Europe. After a drink in the village we drove back to Berdún and went over our lists – quite long already! – Before dinner. An excellent first day! Day 3 Tuesday 22nd September Today was full of variety, starting with a short walk today from Castiello along the Camino to Jaca, the first major centre for pilgrims when they arrived in Spain. Along the trail we saw Rock Bunting, Short-toed Treecreeper, Ravens, Crag and House Martins, Common Buzzards and Red Kites. Purple-shot Coppers, Speckled Wood and Silver-spotted Skipper butterflies and Firebugs were also seen. Once in Jaca we walked around the impressive17th Century Citadel , still used by the Spanish army, and saw the Red Deer which live in the moat. We then looked around the fascinating Diocesan Museum and Romanesque cathedral. The exhibits here of Romanesque frescoes and sculptures, contemporary with the Camino’s golden age in the 12th Century, help put the pilgrimage into a historical context and add a bit of magic to the walks, when you imagine the pilgrims and locals of 1000 years ago, who trod the same paths as we are walking now. After a welcome beer – it was hot again today - we drove to a hide above Santa Cilia to see Griffon Vultures come into a muladar - a traditional enclosure where dead livestock is put out for the vultures to dispose of. Today wasn´t especially busy - sometimes you can see hundreds of vultures there- but we saw a few Griffons plus some Red Kites patrolling very close by. Day 4 Wednesday 23rd September Before leaving today, we spotted a Tiger Moth and saw Black Redstart and Spotless Starlings. We drove up to the high Hecho Valley to follow another branch of the Camino through beautiful alpine pastures and Beech/Silver Fir forest. Again the walking was far from strenuous, so we were able to really take our time observing birds, flowers and stunning landscapes. On the way to the Hecho Valley we saw our reliable Roller, and Colin was able to get some good photos of it. We also saw many Common Buzzards and Red Kites along the road. We stopped to look for Green Lizards near the Boca del Infierno gorge. They were all hidden away but we did see Dipper in the Aragón Subordán river, while Crag Martins flitted along the gorge and Griffon Vulures soared above us. We drove up the valley as far as we could, and then walked up to Aguas Tuertas. We saw and heard Marmots close by and also saw Yellowhammer, Wood Warbler, Chiffchaff, Western Bonelli’s Warbler, Northern Wheatear and Dunnock. We were soon rewarded with the sight of a pair of Lammergeier patrolling 2 © Naturetrek Spain's Camino de Santiago & its Natural History Tour Report along the hillside near one of their regular nesting sites (this year they nested just over the border in France). They landed together on a ledge and then flew down the valley. It was a fantastic sighting and Robert´s first-ever Lammergeier. Once in Aguas Tuertas, we saw Welsh Poppies, some late specimens of Dragonmouth and Autumn Crocus. There were many Red-billed Chough around, plus House Martins about to leave their cliff nesting sites for warmer climes. In the beautiful Aguas Tuertas valley, horses and cattle were grazing – an idyllic sight against the backdrop of mountains and the meandering river. On the way down the valley we spotted a Short-toed Eagle perched on a dead tree, and Colin was able to sneak up close for some excellent photos of this very distinctive eagle with its almost owl-like face. A few minutes later Colin spotted a young Griffon Vulture close to the track. At this time of year, the young ones can get stranded by ending up in a place from where they can’t take off easily. Again, he got some good photographs. Going back through the gorge we saw another Dipper, a Camberwell Beauty butterfly and Coal Tit. Further down the valley we saw Spotless Starlings perched on the backs of sheep. Once back at Casa Sarasa, a rest and a good dinner set the seal on an excellent day. Day 5 Thursday 24th September Having discovered and investigated some Firebugs in the garden, we set off for San Juan de La Peña - a conglomerate mountain south of the main range of the Pyrenees, which is the site of a 12th Century monastery which was an obligatory stop along the Camino. For much of the Middle Ages it was the home of what was considered the Holy Grail. Above the early church there is a later Baroque monastery. San Juan de la Peña is also a great area for seeing birds of prey, Black Woodpeckers and many other birds. We stopped at a lookout on the way up the mountain and had impressive, close views of Griffon Vultures flying in and out of their nests in the cliffs below.
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