Gourmet Getaways Is a Must-Have for Foodies of All Tastes and Levels of Expertise—Whether You’Re a Budding Chef Or a Kitchen Diva
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Davi A soup-to-nuts guide to the top 50 culinary vacations in America D Cook your way across the U.S.A. with this insider guide to America’s leading recreational cooking programs. The definitive resource for planning and getting Gour met the most out of your culinary vacation, Gourmet Getaways is a must-have for foodies of all tastes and levels of expertise—whether you’re a budding chef or a kitchen diva. From well-known culinary schools to country inns, from a weekend class to a weeklong course, you’ll find detailed profiles on a whole menu of cooking school Gour met options. Find out who’s teaching and what you’ll learn, try sample recipes and get cooking tips from the chefs, and discover other area attractions to enjoy during Getaways your stay. California’s COPIA in the Napa Valley, Wisconsin’s Destination Kohler, and Virginia’s Inn at Little Washington are just a few of the outstanding getaways 50 Top Spots To Cook And LeArn profiled. Whatever your skill level, budget, or schedule, Gourmet Getaways has the perfect culinary escape to please your palate! Getaways Joe David is the author of numerous articles on American and international cuisine for such publications as the Christian Science Monitor, with recent pieces including an interview with celebrated chef Jacques Pépin and an article on the Ritz Escoffier Cooking School in Paris. He lives in Warrenton, Virginia. Cover design by Diana Nuhn Cover images: (top left) courtesy of Jekyll Island ® Club Hotel; (bottom right) courtesy of The Greenbrier Printed in the United States of America ® globe pequot press Guilford, Connecticut www.GlobePequot.com Joe DaviD GPP Tr avel is an imprint of ® The Globe Pequot Press Guilford, Connecticut www.GlobePequot.com Gour met Getaways GG_i-viii_1-288.indd 1 2/5/09 11:24:14 AM GG_i-viii_1-288.indd 2 1/29/09 9:43:36 AM Gour met Getaways 50 Top Spots To Cook and Learn Joe DaviD Guilford, Connecticut GG_i-viii_1-288.indd 3 1/29/09 9:43:37 AM v The prices and rates in this guidebook were confirmed at press time. We recommend, however, that you call establishments before traveling to obtain current information. Copyright © 2009 by Joe David ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing from the publisher. Requests for permission should be addressed to The Globe Pequot Press, Attn: Rights and Permissions Department, P.O. Box 480, Guilford, CT 06437. Portions of the text on pp. 77–82, 172–76, and 263–65 appeared in an article in Incentive magazine in January 2009. Text design by Sheryl P. Kober Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available. ISBN 978-0-7627-4684-2 Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 GG_i-viii_1-288.indd 4 1/30/09 1:44:22 PM contents Introduction vi Northeast Connecticut . 2 Maine . 18 Massachusetts . 40 New Hampshire . 54 New York . 71 Pennsylvania . 93 Southeast Georgia . 108 Louisiana . 120 South Carolina . 126 Virginia . 132 West Virginia . 155 Southwest New Mexico . 162 Texas . 165 Midwest Illinois. 180 Michigan . 193 Wisconsin. 210 West California . 236 Index of Recipes 281 General Index 283 About the Author 288 GG_i-viii_1-288.indd 5 1/30/09 1:44:23 PM IntroDuction y mother had many noble qualities, but cooking wasn’t one of Mthem. She was the only person I have ever known who, when in the “mood,” could turn a perfectly fine roast into something even our cocker spaniel would reject. I often believed she did this deliberately to make a point to Dad. If this was her purpose, it proved to be very effective. My father, you see, was an old-world gentleman who appreciated fine food and drink, and ruining his dinner was an excellent way to get his attention. But he was too wise to allow her culinary misconduct to become an issue; instead he used it as an excuse to introduce me to the flip side of the uni- verse, where impoverished palates like mine could experience wondrous creations—escalopes de veau, canard à lorange, crème brûlée, and other such gastronomic delights. This angelic act of mercy, bestowed upon me at some of Chicago’s trendy restaurants, made it possible for me to sur- vive puberty without major trauma. From him, and from my worldly sister (a longtime Pan American stewardess), I learned to appreciate good cuisine. At an age when many of my colleagues were following a sensible career path to glory and riches, I was traveling the world eating. Although I can’t consider myself a cook of merit (nor do I ever care to become one), when I do cook for friends, few leave the dinner table unsatisfied. From my travels—and from the support of more talented cooks—I have learned to master a few of the basic skills of cooking fine food. My interest in cooking school getaways began in the nineties, when I was searching for suitable subjects for magazine articles. Because of my food fetish, a result of my scarred childhood, I began to write about inter- national cooking schools from time to time. When my publisher asked me to write a book about cooking-school getaways in the United States, I became very excited. I saw it as an opportunity to travel the United States and to devote some major time to a subject I love very much. vi GG_i-viii_1-288.indd 6 1/29/09 9:43:38 AM introDuction Many of the schools mentioned in this book are seasonal, and they only offer classes during certain times of the year. Some even have a very limited focus or a focus that contradicts popular points of view. To avoid disappointment, it is important that readers contact the schools and get acquainted with the program choices before making a commitment. I have included a mix of schools with enough information throughout the book to help readers decide what may work best for them. To help evalu- ate each school, I provide, whenever appropriate, the schools’ and the chefs’ mission or philosophy. This should give you some clue as to what direction the school is heading. Remember: What I have to say about each school shouldn’t be taken as the final word. Programs change and personnel leave, even suddenly. This is largely because for schools to succeed, they must adapt to new trends. A few of the schools are forever true to their commitment, and they become the standard by which others may be measured. But for the most part, even they, to keep pace with the times, must transition to new levels occasionally. Questions to ask yourself before committing to any school: What do I expect from the school—a fun-filled getaway, serious learning, or a social experience? What will they teach me? What are the credentials and experiences of the staff? Do they have what it takes to deliver what they promise? And, most importantly, is the cost of the program within my budget? With that said, you are now ready to make your escape to what will hopefully become a gourmet getaway to remember. —Joe David Warrenton, Virginia vii GG_i-viii_1-288.indd 7 1/29/09 9:43:39 AM Northeast Wheatleigh. PHOTO COURTESY OF WHEATLEIGH GG_i-viii_1-288.indd 8 1/29/09 9:43:41 AM Northeast Connecticut The Conscious Gourmet, Greenwich . 2 Silo Cooking School, New Milford. 8 Cucina Casalinga, Wilton. 13 Maine Hartstone Inn Cooking School, Camden. 18 The Inns at Blackberry Common, Camden. 25 L’Ecole des Chefs Relais Gourmand at the White Barn Inn, Kennebunk Beach. 31 Massachusetts Kushi Institute, Becket. 40 Captain Freeman Inn, Brewster . 46 Wheatleigh, Lenox. 48 New Hampshire The Balsams Grand Resort Hotel, Dixville Notch. 54 A Taste of the Mountains Cooking School at Bernerhof Inn, Glen. 60 White Mountain Cooking School at the Snowvillage Inn, Snowville. 65 New York Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park. 71 The Institute of Culinary Education, New York. 77 Anna Teresa Callen Italian Cooking School, New York. 82 Alice Ross Hearth Studios, Smithtown . 86 Pennsylvania Torte Knox, Hawley. 93 Julian Krinsky Cooking School, King of Prussia . 101 1 GG_i-viii_1-288.indd 1 1/30/09 1:44:24 PM Connecticut The Conscious Gourmet Greenwich, Connecticut ost people make food choices based on what’s tasty and available, Mwithout consideration of what’s best for their body As a result, they unconsciously create health issues for themselves, like weight gain, mood swings, food sensitivities, and even accelerated aging Thanks to nutritionists, researchers, doctors, the media, and the food industry, many Americans are beginning to improve their eating habits They are finally reading the fine print on packages to learn exactly what’s in their food and asking themselves, is this really good for me? Some are even beginning to understand that wholesome food is needed not only to sustain the body, but to heal it This new awareness has led to a noticeable movement in America toward high-quality foods that contain more whole grains, vegetables, and fruits Diane Carlson, owner of the Conscious Gourmet, is one of the many who have been helping to develop this emerging interest in healthier eating Students who take one of her three- or six-day retreats are introduced to a wide range of health-supportive foods and the techniques for preparing them More importantly, students attending her classes learn to make food choices that will contribute to their health and well-being, and support their personal goals About THE Instructor Some time ago, Diane experienced a series of health issues including high blood pressure, a perforated ulcer, mood swings, and more.