Giacomo Conterno the Gold Standard for Traditionally Made Barolo Or 45 Years, Until His Death in in Honor of His Home Village 2004, Giovanni Conterno Monforte D’Alba
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Giacomo Conterno The Gold Standard for Traditionally Made Barolo or 45 years, until his death in in honor of his home village 2004, Giovanni Conterno Monforte d’Alba. Fforged a reputation as the great- For the next 54 years, Giacomo—and est of all Barolo producers, irrespec- then his son Giovanni—made Barolo tive of style. The wines he made were in much the same way. Two Barolos the quintessence of “traditional” were made, always from purchased Barolo: rich, powerful, massively grapes, the main distinction being fer- structured, and capable of long devel- mentation technique and time in cask. opment in bottle. At left, the late Giovanni Conterno A Noble Vineyard R A R E W I N E C O. and, at right, his son Roberto, who is For many, his heroic Monfortino—the carrying on the Conterno family legacy. product of wild temperature swings du- Then, in 1974, Giovanni acquired ring fermentation and 6 to 8 years in barrel—is the the Cascina Francia vineyard in most perfect expression of the Nebbiolo grape. As for Serralunga. With its fabulous exposure, the site was his glorious Barolo Cascina Francia, it has long been perfect for the powerful Conterno style, and T H E the benchmark against which other producers measure Giovanni immediately stopped buying grapes, rely- their own efforts. ing on approximately 5 hectares of Nebbiolo to produce about 600 cases of Monfortino and 1500 Giovanni left the world many great vintages of cases of Cascina Francia. The ownership of Cascina Barolo, including 1964, 1971, 1978, 1985, 1990, Francia also made it possible for Giovanni to pro- 1996, 1999 and 2001. But possibly his greatest duce a tiny amount of some of the Langhe’s finest, legacy was to hand over his important work to his and most sought-after, Barbera. gifted son Roberto. A talented winemaker in his own right, Roberto not only shares his father’s brilliance Like his father, Roberto is patient in raising his but is equally determined to uphold his family’s tra- wines. Consequently, the period from harvest to ditions. He could follow other young Langhe wine- release is two years for his Barbera “Cascina makers into modernism, but he never will. In his Francia,” four years for Barolo “Cascina Francia” words, the wines of Giacomo Conterno will always and seven years for Barolo “Monfortino.” belong to the generations that came before him. The Next Era The First Important Barolo Two thousand eight marked a milestone for Giacomo Conterno: Roberto Conterno purchased The Conterno crown jewel, Monfortino, is not land in Serralunga’s prized Cerretta vineyard. only arguably the greatest Barolo; it was also the very Roberto chose to increase his holdings in the com- first Barolo made in what has come to be known as mune he knows best—Serralunga d’Alba—home, the classic style. of course, not only to his iconic Cascina Francia At the time that Giovanni Conterno’s father vineyard, but also to the legendary Rionda, Giacomo served in World War I, Barolo was gener- Gabutti and Arione crus. ally sold in either cask or demijohn, meant for early In the Ceretta cru, whose owners include Bruno drinking. But when Giacomo returned from the Giacosa, Roberto purchased two hectares of war, he decided to create a Barolo with immense Nebbiolo and one of Barbera. Roberto’s new wines aging potential. His first wine was a 1920 Barolo from these plots undoubtedly top the short list of Riserva, and he soon adopted the name Monfortino Barolo’s most highly anticipated new releases ever. 21481 Eighth Street East • Sonoma, CA 95476 • 1-707-996-4484 • Fax: 1-707-996-4491 [email protected] • Twitter: @RareWineCo • Copyright 2011 The Rare Wine Co. Giacomo Conterno Piedmont, Italy OVERVIEW cru. Compared with Cascina Francia, the key Proprietor & Winemaker: Roberto Conterno difference lies in Cerretta’s soil—which has more white clay—and the fact that Cerretta is The Conterno Barolos have been famous since sheltered by a ridge, which cools the 1920s, and Roberto Conterno is the third temperatures despite the vineyards warm generation to run the firm founded by his western exposure. grandfather, Giacomo. Roberto’s father, Giovanni, purchased the great Cascina The Wines Francia cru in Serralunga in 1974. This cru Barbera d’Alba “Cascina Francia” was the cantina’s sole source of fruit for all Fruit Source: Cascina Francia cru in Serralunga their wines until 2008, when Roberto Avg. Yield : 30-35 hL/hA Conterno purchased three hectares in Fermentation : 2-3 weeks in wooden vats with Serralunga’s prized Cerretta cru, from which regular breaking-up of the caps he produces a Barolo and a Barbera. Aging: 2 years in large cask. Production : 1,800-2,100 cases RECENT VINTAGES Barbera d’Alba “Cerretta” 2008 – A potentially classic, structured, and Fruit Source: Cerretta cru in Serralunga focused vintage, with early comparisons to Avg. Yield : 30-35 hL/hA ’96 and ’89. Fermentation : 2-3 weeks in wooden vats with 2007 – Very good to excellent Barolo vintage. regular breaking-up of the caps Wines are extremely fresh and aromatic. A Aging: 2 years in large cask. masterful Barbera vintage. Production : 600 cases 2006 – An excellent vintage. Expressive wines with great purity and richness. Barolo “Cascina Francia” 2005 – A mixed vintage with potential for Fruit Source: Cascina Francia cru in Serralunga strong wines, but not at the level of ’04 or Avg. Yield : 30-35 hL/hA ’06. Fermentation : 3-4 weeks in wooden vats with 2004 – A great vintage. Classic wines in the regular breaking-up of the caps style of 2001. Aging: 4 years in large cask. Production : 1,800 cases The Vineyards Barolo “Cerretta” Soils: Many variations of calcareous marls. Fruit Source: Cerretta cru in Serralunga Zone: Serralunga d’Alba Avg. Yield : 30-35 hL/hA Fermentation : 3-4 weeks in wooden vats with Cascina Francia regular breaking-up of the caps In 1974, the Conternos acquired the Cascina Aging: 4 years in large cask. Francia cru in Serralunga. With its fabulous Production: 300 cases exposure, and predominately calcareous soil, Barolo “Monfortino” the site is perfect for the powerful Conterno Fruit Source: Cascina Francia cru in Serralunga style. Avg. Yield : 30 hL/hA Cerretta Fermentation : 3-4 weeks in wooden vats with In 2008, Roberto Conterno purchased three regular breaking-up of the caps. No hectares of southwest- to west-facing temperature control Nebbiolo and Barbera vines in the sheltered Aging: minimum 7 years in large cask Cerretta Piani section of the prized Cerretta Production : 580 cases THE RARE WINE CO. • 21481 EIGHTH STREET EAST • SONOMA, CA 95476 .