Impact and Feedback of Ocean Waves on the Atmosphere
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A Near-Shore Linear Wave Model with the Mixed Finite Volume and Finite Difference Unstructured Mesh Method
fluids Article A Near-Shore Linear Wave Model with the Mixed Finite Volume and Finite Difference Unstructured Mesh Method Yong G. Lai 1,* and Han Sang Kim 2 1 Technical Service Center, U.S. Bureau of Reclamation, Denver, CO 80225, USA 2 Bay-Delta Office, California Department of Water Resources, Sacramento, CA 95814, USA; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +1-303-445-2560 Received: 5 October 2020; Accepted: 1 November 2020; Published: 5 November 2020 Abstract: The near-shore and estuary environment is characterized by complex natural processes. A prominent feature is the wind-generated waves, which transfer energy and lead to various phenomena not observed where the hydrodynamics is dictated only by currents. Over the past several decades, numerical models have been developed to predict the wave and current state and their interactions. Most models, however, have relied on the two-model approach in which the wave model is developed independently of the current model and the two are coupled together through a separate steering module. In this study, a new wave model is developed and embedded in an existing two-dimensional (2D) depth-integrated current model, SRH-2D. The work leads to a new wave–current model based on the one-model approach. The physical processes of the new wave model are based on the latest third-generation formulation in which the spectral wave action balance equation is solved so that the spectrum shape is not pre-imposed and the non-linear effects are not parameterized. New contributions of the present study lie primarily in the numerical method adopted, which include: (a) a new operator-splitting method that allows an implicit solution of the wave action equation in the geographical space; (b) mixed finite volume and finite difference method; (c) unstructured polygonal mesh in the geographical space; and (d) a single mesh for both the wave and current models that paves the way for the use of the one-model approach. -
SWAN Technical Manual
SWAN TECHNICAL DOCUMENTATION SWAN Cycle III version 40.51 SWAN TECHNICAL DOCUMENTATION by : The SWAN team mail address : Delft University of Technology Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences Environmental Fluid Mechanics Section P.O. Box 5048 2600 GA Delft The Netherlands e-mail : [email protected] home page : http://www.fluidmechanics.tudelft.nl/swan/index.htmhttp://www.fluidmechanics.tudelft.nl/sw Copyright (c) 2006 Delft University of Technology. Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License, Version 1.2 or any later version published by the Free Software Foundation; with no Invariant Sec- tions, no Front-Cover Texts, and no Back-Cover Texts. A copy of the license is available at http://www.gnu.org/licenses/fdl.html#TOC1http://www.gnu.org/licenses/fdl.html#TOC1. Contents 1 Introduction 1 1.1 Historicalbackground. 1 1.2 Purposeandmotivation . 2 1.3 Readership............................. 3 1.4 Scopeofthisdocument. 3 1.5 Overview.............................. 4 1.6 Acknowledgements ........................ 5 2 Governing equations 7 2.1 Spectral description of wind waves . 7 2.2 Propagation of wave energy . 10 2.2.1 Wave kinematics . 10 2.2.2 Spectral action balance equation . 11 2.3 Sourcesandsinks ......................... 12 2.3.1 Generalconcepts . 12 2.3.2 Input by wind (Sin).................... 19 2.3.3 Dissipation of wave energy (Sds)............. 21 2.3.4 Nonlinear wave-wave interactions (Snl) ......... 27 2.4 The influence of ambient current on waves . 33 2.5 Modellingofobstacles . 34 2.6 Wave-inducedset-up . 35 2.7 Modellingofdiffraction. 35 3 Numerical approaches 39 3.1 Introduction........................... -
Storm Waves Focusing and Steepening in the Agulhas Current: Satellite Observations and Modeling T ⁎ Y
Remote Sensing of Environment 216 (2018) 561–571 Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Remote Sensing of Environment journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/rse Storm waves focusing and steepening in the Agulhas current: Satellite observations and modeling T ⁎ Y. Quilfena, , M. Yurovskayab,c, B. Chaprona,c, F. Ardhuina a IFREMER, Univ. Brest, CNRS, IRD, Laboratoire d'Océanographie Physique et Spatiale (LOPS), Brest, France b Marine Hydrophysical Institute RAS, Sebastopol, Russia c Russian State Hydrometeorological University, Saint Petersburg, Russia ARTICLE INFO ABSTRACT Keywords: Strong ocean currents can modify the height and shape of ocean waves, possibly causing extreme sea states in Extreme waves particular conditions. The risk of extreme waves is a known hazard in the shipping routes crossing some of the Wave-current interactions main current systems. Modeling surface current interactions in standard wave numerical models is an active area Satellite altimeter of research that benefits from the increased availability and accuracy of satellite observations. We report a SAR typical case of a swell system propagating in the Agulhas current, using wind and sea state measurements from several satellites, jointly with state of the art analytical and numerical modeling of wave-current interactions. In particular, Synthetic Aperture Radar and altimeter measurements are used to show the evolution of the swell train and resulting local extreme waves. A ray tracing analysis shows that the significant wave height variability at scales < ~100 km is well associated with the current vorticity patterns. Predictions of the WAVEWATCH III numerical model in a version that accounts for wave-current interactions are consistent with observations, al- though their effects are still under-predicted in the present configuration. -
Semi-Empirical Dissipation Source Functions for Ocean Waves: Part I, Definition, Calibration and Validation
A Generated using V3.0 of the official AMS L TEX template–journal page layout FOR AUTHOR USE ONLY, NOT FOR SUBMISSION! Semi-empirical dissipation source functions for ocean waves: Part I, definition, calibration and validation. Fabrice Ardhuin ∗, Jean-Franc¸ois Filipot and Rudy Magne Service Hydrographique et Oc´eanographique de la Marine, Brest, France Erick Rogers Oceanography Division, Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS, USA Alexander Babanin Swinburne University, Hawthorn, VA, Australia Pierre Queffeulou Ifremer, Laboratoire d’Oc´eanographie Spatiale, Plouzan´e, France Lotfi Aouf and Jean-Michel Lefevre UMR GAME, M´et´eo-France - CNRS, Toulouse, France Aron Roland Technological University of Darmstadt, Germany Andre van der Westhuysen Deltares, Delft, The Netherlands Fabrice Collard CLS, Division Radar, Plouzan´e, France ABSTRACT New parameterizations for the spectral dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum, in a way consistent with observation of wave breaking and swell dissipation properties. Namely, swell dissipation is nonlinear and proportional to the swell steepness, and wave breaking only affects spectral components such that the non-dimensional spectrum exceeds the threshold at which waves are observed to start breaking. An additional source of short wave dissipation due to long wave breaking is introduced, together with a reduction of wind-wave generation term for short waves, otherwise taken from Janssen (J. Phys. Oceanogr. 1991). These parameterizations are combined and calibrated with the Discrete Interaction Approximation of Hasselmann et al. (J. Phys. Oceangr. 1985) for the nonlinear interactions. Parameters are adjusted to reproduce observed shapes of directional wave spectra, and the variability of spectral moments with wind speed and wave height. -
Appendix D — Summary of Hydrodynamic, Sediment Transport
Appendix D Summary of Hydrodynamic, Sediment Transport, and Wave Modeling Appendix D Summary of Hydrodynamic, Sediment Transport, and Wave Modeling Spirit Lake Sediment Site Prepared for U. S. Steel Corporation November 2014 325 S. Lake Avenue, Suite 700 Duluth, MN 55802-2323 Phone: 218.529.8200 Fax: 218.529.8202 Summary of Hydrodynamic, Sediment Transport, and Wave Modeling Spirit Lake Sediment Site November 2014 Contents 1.0 Introduction ........................................................................................................................................................................... 1 1.1 Spirit Lake Physical System ......................................................................................................................................... 1 1.1.1 Bathymetric Scans ..................................................................................................................................................... 2 1.1.2 Hydrodynamic Data .................................................................................................................................................. 2 1.1.2.1 River Discharge ................................................................................................................................................. 3 1.1.2.2 Water Level ........................................................................................................................................................ 3 1.1.2.3 Flow Velocity .................................................................................................................................................... -
A Modelling Approach for the Assessment of Wave-Currents Interaction in the Black Sea
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Article A Modelling Approach for the Assessment of Wave-Currents Interaction in the Black Sea Salvatore Causio 1,* , Stefania A. Ciliberti 1 , Emanuela Clementi 2, Giovanni Coppini 1 and Piero Lionello 3 1 Fondazione Centro Euro-Mediterraneo sui Cambiamenti Climatici, Ocean Predictions and Applications Division, 73100 Lecce, Italy; [email protected] (S.A.C.); [email protected] (G.C.) 2 Fondazione Centro Euro-Mediterraneo sui Cambiamenti Climatici, Ocean Modelling and Data Assimilation Division, 40127 Bologna, Italy; [email protected] 3 Department of Biological and Environmental Sciences and Technologies, University of Salento—DiSTeBA, 73100 Lecce, Italy; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Abstract: In this study, we investigate wave-currents interaction for the first time in the Black Sea, implementing a coupled numerical system based on the ocean circulation model NEMO v4.0 and the third-generation wave model WaveWatchIII v5.16. The scope is to evaluate how the waves impact the surface ocean dynamics, through assessment of temperature, salinity and surface currents. We provide also some evidence on the way currents may impact on sea-state. The physical processes considered here are Stokes–Coriolis force, sea-state dependent momentum flux, wave-induced vertical mixing, Doppler shift effect, and stability parameter for computation of effective wind speed. The numerical system is implemented for the Black Sea basin (the Azov Sea is not included) at a horizontal resolution of about 3 km and at 31 vertical levels for the hydrodynamics. Wave spectrum has been discretised into 30 frequencies and 24 directional bins. -
Study of a Wind-Wave Numerical Model and Its Integration with an Ocean and an Oil-Spill Numerical Models
Alma Mater Studiorum di Bologna Facolta` di Scienze MM.FF.NN. Tesi di Laurea Magistrale in Analisi e Gestione dell'Ambiente Study of a Wind-Wave Numerical Model and its integration with an Ocean and an Oil-Spill Numerical Models Relatore Candidato Prof.ssa Nadia Pinardi Diego Bruciaferri Correlatori Dott.ssa Michela De Dominicis Dott. Francesco Trotta Anno Accademico 2012/2013 Given for one instant an intelligence which could comprehend all the forces by which nature is animated, ... to it nothing would be uncertain, and the future as the past would be present to its eyes. Laplace, Oeuvres Desidero ringraziare mio padre, mia madre e i miei fratelli che hanno sempre creduto in me e hanno sempre supportato le mie scelte. Desidero inoltre ringraziare la Prof.ssa Nadia Pinardi, che, con il suo in- coraggiamento e la sua contagiosa passione per la fisica e il mare, non ha mai smesso di motivarmi nel superare gli scogli piu' difficili incontrati du- rante questo lavoro. Un ringraziamento speciale va alla Dott.ssa Michela De Dominicis, al Dott. Luca Giacomelli e al Dott. Francesco Trotta, senza l'aiuto dei quali questo lavoro non avrebbe potuto essere portato a termine. Un grazie poi a tutti i Prof.ri del mio corso di Laurea, per l'entusiasmo che hanno messo nelle loro lezioni e per i loro insegnamenti. Un grazie a Claudia, Giulia, Emanuela, Augusto e a tutti i ragazzi che hanno frequentato i laboratori del SINCEM, perche' tutti mi hanno lasciato qualcosa. Un grazie poi va ai miei compagni di corso, al `crucco' Matteo, al `terroncello' Roberto, a Francesco, Riccardo, Michela, Manuela, Caterina e tutti gli altri, per i bei due anni passati insieme. -
Evaluation of the Significant Wave Height Data Quality for the Sentinel
remote sensing Technical Note Evaluation of the Significant Wave Height Data Quality for the Sentinel-3 Synthetic Aperture Radar Altimeter Yong Wan 1,* , Rongjuan Zhang 2, Xiaodong Pan 3, Chenqing Fan 4 and Yongshou Dai 1 1 College of Oceanography and Space Informatics, China University of Petroleum, No. 66, Changjiangxi Road, Huangdao District, Qingdao 266580, China; [email protected] 2 College of Control Science and Engineering, China University of Petroleum, No. 66, Changjiangxi Road, Huangdao District, Qingdao 266580, China; [email protected] 3 Marine Environmental Monitoring Center of Wenzhou, the State Oceanic Administration, No. 2, Xinanjiang Road, Wenzhou Avenue, Wenzhou 325000, China; [email protected] 4 Remote Sensing Office of The First Institute of Oceanography, Ministry of Natural Resources, No. 6, Xianxia Road, Laoshan District, Qingdao 266061, China; fanchenqing@fio.org.cn * Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +86-150-5325-1676 Received: 21 August 2020; Accepted: 19 September 2020; Published: 22 September 2020 Abstract: Synthetic aperture radar (SAR) altimeters represent a new method of microwave remote sensing for ocean wave observations. The adoption of SAR technology in the azimuthal direction has the advantage of a high resolution. The Sentinel-3 altimeter is the first radar altimeter to acquire global observations in SAR mode; hence, the data quality needs to be assessed before extensively applying these data. The European Space Agency (ESA) evaluates the Sentinel-3 accuracy on a global scale but has yet to perform a detailed analysis in terms of different offshore distances and different water depths. In this paper, Sentinel-3 and Jason-2 significant wave height (SWH) data are matched in both time and space with buoy data from the United States East and West Coasts and the Central Pacific Ocean. -
Field Surveys and Numerical Simulation of the 2018 Typhoon Jebi: Impact of High Waves and Storm Surge in Semi-Enclosed Osaka Bay, Japan
Pure Appl. Geophys. 176 (2019), 4139–4160 Ó 2019 Springer Nature Switzerland AG https://doi.org/10.1007/s00024-019-02295-0 Pure and Applied Geophysics Field Surveys and Numerical Simulation of the 2018 Typhoon Jebi: Impact of High Waves and Storm Surge in Semi-enclosed Osaka Bay, Japan 1 1 2 1 1 TUAN ANH LE, HIROSHI TAKAGI, MOHAMMAD HEIDARZADEH, YOSHIHUMI TAKATA, and ATSUHEI TAKAHASHI Abstract—Typhoon Jebi made landfall in Japan in 2018 and hit 1. Introduction Osaka Bay on September 4, causing severe damage to Kansai area, Japan’s second largest economical region. We conducted field surveys around the Osaka Bay including the cities of Osaka, Annually, an average of 2.9 tropical cyclones Wakayama, Tokushima, Hyogo, and the island of Awaji-shima to (from 1951 to 2016) have hit Japan (Takagi and evaluate the situation of these areas immediately after Typhoon Esteban 2016; Takagi et al. 2017). The recent Jebi struck. Jebi generated high waves over large areas in these regions, and many coasts were substantially damaged by the Typhoon Jebi in September 2018 has been the combined impact of high waves and storm surges. The Jebi storm strongest tropical cyclone to come ashore in the last surge was the highest in the recorded history of Osaka. We used a 25 years since Typhoon Yancy (the 13th typhoon to storm surge–wave coupled model to investigate the impact caused by Jebi. The simulated surge level was validated with real data hit Japan, in 1993), severely damaging areas in its acquired from three tidal stations, while the wave simulation results trajectory. -
Strategic Flood Risk Assessment
Shetland Islands Council Strategic Flood Risk Assessment CONTENTS 1 Introduction 2 Objectives 2.1 Definition 2.2 Objectives 2.3 Structure of Report 3 Data Collection 3.1 The National Flood Risk Assessment 3.2 SEPA’s Indicative River and coastal flood map (Scotland) 3.3 Local flooding groups 3.4 Public consultation 3.5 Historical records including Biennial Flood Reports 3.6 Surveys of existing infrastructure 3.7 Proudman Oceanographic Laboratory 3.8 UK Climate Projections 09 4 Strategic Flood Risk Assessment 4.1 Overview 4.2 Potential sources of flooding 4.3 Climate Change Impacts 4.4 Rainfall Data 4.5 Strategic Flood Defences 4.6 Historical Extreme Recorded Rainfall Event 4.7 Historical Extreme Recorded Tidal Event 4.8 1:200 Year Tide Level 4.9 Development Control Flood Layers 5 Assessment of Areas of Best Fit 5.1 Aith 5.2 Baltasound 5.3 Brae 5.4 Lerwick 5.5 Mid Yell 5.6 Sandwick 5.7 Scalloway 6 Assessment of Sites with Development Potential 6.1 BR002 Ham Bressay 6.2 CL003 Strand Greenwell Gott 6.3 CL004 Veensgarth 6.4 LK004 Gremista, Lerwick 6.5 LK006 Port Business Park/Black Hill Industrial Est, Lerwick 6.6 LK007 Port Business Park 6.7 LK008 Oxlee, Lerwick 6.8 LK010 Seafield, Lerwick 6.9 LK019 North Greenhead Lerwick 6.10 LK020 North Greenhead Lerwick 6.11 LK021 Dales Voe Lerwick 6.12 NI001 Ulsta Yell 6.13 NM001 The Houllands, Weathersta, Brae 6.14 NM004 Scatsta Airport 6.15 NM011 Mossbank and Firth 6.16 NM012 Mossbank and Firth 6.17 NM017 Stucca Hillswick 6.18 NM020 Sellaness Scasta 6.19 SM019 Scatness Virkie 6.20 WM002 Hellister Weisdale 6.21 WM008 Opposite Aith Hall 6.22 WM012 Gronnack, Whiteness 1 Introduction The Shetland Local Plan, which was adopted in 2004, is being reviewed in line with the Planning etc. -
New Insights Into Rossby Wave Packet Properties in the Extratropical UTLS Using GNSS Radio Occultations”
Response to reviews of Pilch Kedzierski et al.: “New insights into Rossby wave packet properties in the extratropical UTLS using GNSS radio occultations” Dear Editor, We would like to thank the two anonymous reviewers and Petr Šácha for their helpful comments. In the following paragraphs we include general remarks about common major comments, point-by-point responses to each comment in the reviews along with the manuscript with tracked changes. The referee's comments are in blue font, and our replies are in normal font. Changes made in the revised manuscript are highlighted. Yours sincerely, Robin Pilch Kedzierski Katja Matthes Karl Bumke General remarks We noted two main issues that several reviewer’s comments had in common, which we address next. (1): On the use of the ‘wetPrf’ product over dry temperature profiles The use of the ‘wetPrf’ product is not only justified but necessary, keeping in mind the height range used in our study (6-26+ km). The retrieved moisture profile from ‘wetPrf’ is not considered superior to the analysis used as background (ECMWF). But the retrieved GNSS-RO wet temperature has zero difference with dry temperature above ~10km, while showing advantages at lower levels, as explained in the following paragraph that we added to section 2.1: The ’wetPrf’ product is the best suited for our study for several reasons. In regions where the atmosphere is dry (roughly above 10 km height), the ’wetPrf’ and the dry temperature ’atmPrf’ profiles basically coincide (Alexander et al., 2014; Danzer et al., 2014). At lower levels, water vapor is increasingly influential and dry temperatures get colder than the real temperature (e.g. -
The Shetland Islands David Crichton1, Chartered Insurance Practitioner ______
© Crichton 2003 1 The Shetland Islands David Crichton1, Chartered Insurance Practitioner _________________________________________________________________ Acknowledgements The author wishes to thank Victor Hawthorne of Shetland Islands Council, Department of Infrastructure Services for his invaluable assistance. He also wishes to thank Dr Derek Mcglashan at the University of Dundee for his advice on udal law, Dr Olivia Bragg at the University of Dundee for her advice on peat slides, and Professor Alistair Dawson at Coventry University for information on historic storms. In addition, he would also like to thank Dr David Cameron and David Okill of the Scottish Environment Protection Agency for their comments on the draft of this paper. Note This paper was issued in July 2003 and a copy given to Shetland Islands Council. Please note this is an edited version which omits details of certain specific areas of concern. Funding This research was made possible by funding from esure insurance services Ltd. Abstract Shetland is one of the stormiest places in Europe. The islands are very exposed to westerly gales from the North Atlantic and over the years the population has learned to ensure that the buildings are constructed to high standards of resilience. As a result, wind damage is rare and minor even in the strongest storms. The islands are therefore a good example of how resilient design and construction can reduce vulnerability to such an extent that the risk is minimised even in areas exposed to severe hazards. Key words: Shetland, storm, vulnerability, flood, climate change, insurance. Introduction The Shetland Islands, or Shetland2 is a group of islands, located 200km to the North of the British mainland.