JANUARY 2014 | OUR 35TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES 2014 HIDEAWAY OF THE YEAR GRAND AMAN CANAL GRANDE AWARDS VENICE, Each year, we have the pleasure of recalling our travel experiences over the past 12 months and singling out a number of particularly memorable hotels and resorts. To be considered for our annual awards, properties must be relatively small in size, possess strong individual personalities, offer relaxing atmospheres and demonstrate a consistent devotion to personal service.

Hideaway of the Year Aman Canal Grande 2 North America LOCATED CLOSE TO THE RIALTO BRIDGE, IN THE CENTRAL SAN POLO DISTRICT, Rancho Valencia El Encanto the 16th-century Palazzo Papadopoli now houses the 24-room Aman Canal Grande. The Farmhouse Inn Capella Washington, D.C. building has not been reconfigured as a hotel and still possesses its original layout. There is Fisher Island no reception desk; the concierge is recognizable only by the crossed keys on his lapel; and Kingsbrae Arms guests never have to sign for anything. Even at the end of our stay, we remained incredulous 5 Central America Mukul that we could wander around a magnificent palazzo as though it were our own. Nayara Hotel Having registered in a lobby lined with marble room was located in the adjacent Garden Building. 6 Europe Conservatorium busts, we were shown into the Dining Room, a We immediately felt at home in our spacious, high- The Alpina dazzling space with mirrors, frescoes, chandeliers ceilinged accommodations with their soothing Vigilius Mountain Resort Grand Hotel Tremezzo and a balcony overlooking the Grand Canal. Two contemporary décor, oak parquet floors and dark- Schloss Elmau adjacent smaller rooms boasted ceiling frescoes by stained wood furniture. The bed was lined with white Domaine des Hauts de Loire the Venetian master Giovanni Battista Tiepolo. On leather and was made up with fine Italian sheets. 9 Africa the floor above, the Library featured walls covered The bath was nearly the same size as our bedroom. Grootbos Reserve Oceana Reserve with 300-year-old Cordoba leather. One of the hotel’s The Aman’s amenities are limited: Italian, Thai Babylonstoren five signature suites comes with a third Tiepolo and Japanese cuisines are served in a variety of

11 Australasia ceiling, while the Sansovino Stanza suite contains a venues, and there is a small spa. There are certainly Saffire Freycinet fireplace designed by the great 16th-century sculptor less expensive places to stay in Venice; and if you

10 Restaurants of the Year and architect Jacopo d’Antonio Sansovino. want a swimming pool, only the Hotel Cipriani 11 Special Recognition The property offers four room categories, will do. Overall, however, the Aman Canal Grande 12 Indelible Memories including the signature suites. Our Palazzo Stanza provides a truly unforgettable experience.

For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected]. AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. RANCHO VALENCIA EL ENCANTO RANCHO SANTA FE, CALIFORNIA SANTA BARBARA, CALIFORNIA

THE COAST OF Southern California AFTER A SEVEN-YEAR restoration offers a combination of scenic splendor by Orient-Express, Santa Barbara’s and agreeable climate found in only a oldest hotel reopened last March. For handful of places around the globe. It doesn’t take decades, its famous terrace provided a glamorous much to lure me back to this Riviera-like landscape, stage for movie stars and presidents alike. Located and the reopening of one of my favorite resorts Most above Santa Barbara in the residential Riviera provided a welcome excuse for a visit. In early 2012, Glamorous neighborhood, El Encanto first opened in 1917. Its Rancho Valencia closed for a $30 million overhaul. glory days lasted from the 1920s until the 1950s, Prior to the renovation, reports that it felt dated had Bath after which decline slowly set in. been trickling in, and I was eager to see whether Attention to detail proved Spread across seven acres overlooking the the 10 months of work, undertaken by the resort’s to be the hallmark of the Pacific, the 92-room property now comprises Capella Washington, D.C., new owners, had been time and money well-spent. Georgetown, and nowhere Bungalow Suites, smaller Bungalows and new, Our suite had a secluded location at the far was this more evident than modern Luxury Suites. The original tile-roofed end of a paved footpath. Its Spanish-style interior in the bath of our refined bungalows were raised so that new foundations came with wrought-iron chandeliers hanging from Deluxe Room. A black could be constructed and modern comforts, such marble floor and cream a vaulted ceiling, a sunken living room and a gas as radiant-heat tile flooring, installed. Thoroughly Venetian plaster walls fireplace. Blue-and-white Moorish-inspired tiles created an understated but traditional on the outside, our bungalow came with enlivened the bath, equipped with a steam shower elegant setting, the highlight an attractive sunroom sitting area and a bedroom and soaking tub. Our terrace, with a Jacuzzi, invited of which was a sculptural with a gas fireplace. The splendid bath was almost as lazy afternoons. white freestanding lime- large as the bedroom. Strolling through the grounds stone tub. It was a welcome The food was delicious, though the beautiful sight at the end of our long before dinner, we easily saw why El Encanto has farm-to-table Veladora restaurant really showed walks around the nation’s inspired such loyalty and affection. its mettle at dinner. I especially enjoyed the briny capital. Perfect lighting; In the restaurant, Executive Chef Patrice “Breath of the Sea” appetizer, a jewel-like composition well-stocked towel racks; Martineau, formerly of Daniel in New York, serves numerous convenient of sea urchin, prawns, oysters, clams, cucumber and hooks; and a generous “California Coastal” cuisine. His menu has a farm- seaweed in a cool dashi broth. Next door, the lively supply of Acqua di Parma to-table ethos: Fruits and vegetables come from Pony Room bar draws a chic local crowd. toiletries were all much an on-site garden, and cheeses are crafted with We also took advantage of the upgraded 2.5-acre appreciated. milk from Ellie, the resort’s own cow. In a nod to spa, comprising a fitness center, yoga pavilion and tradition, Martineau still serves the hotel’s famed 10 treatment rooms arrayed around hushed garden floating island dessert, the “Enchanted ‘Oeuf à la courtyards. Fireplaces seemed to be everywhere, even A small Neige,’ ” which dates to the 1920s. New amenities in my treatment room, which also had a soaking tub complimentary include an infinity pool, plus a magnificent spa that on its patio. It felt remarkably indulgent to bask in white leather travel employs seasonal organic products. “ kit contained extras a warm, myrrh-infused bath with cool, soft drizzle Orient-Express has done a fine job, and the for the journey speckling my face. I left feeling thoroughly renewed meticulous restoration of this famous sanctuary home. and at peace. will delight its many admirers.

2 hideaway report | January 2014 FARMHOUSE INN CAPELLA The clear SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA WASHINGTON, D.C. water of the ONE OF THE MOST enjoyable wine THE 49-ROOM Capella Washington, marina provided “ a refuge for a drives in the United States follows D.C., Georgetown stands in a restored somnolent group West Dry Creek Road in northern red-brick warehouse that blends of manatees. Sonoma. Staying at the Farmhouse Inn puts you in smoothly with similar structures along the C&O the perfect location to explore this route, as well Canal (a project in which George Washington himself as the many wonderful wineries in the Russian was an investor). From the moment we stepped out River Valley. Located in Forestville, 10 miles south of our cab, staff swirled about us, opening doors, Most Family- of Healdsburg and 23 miles west of Kenwood, the dispatching luggage and ushering us into the elegant Friendly inn evolved from an 1873 farmhouse. Butter-yellow Capella Living Room for registration. A Personal clapboard siding, shuttered windows and a front Assistant checked us in. There are no clerks or After playing an early- morning set of tennis on veranda make it look country simple at first glance, concierges at the Capella. Instead, the PAs help one of the 18 courts at but it is also wonderfully sophisticated. in any way they can. The system works very well, Fisher Island, a private The property’s Heritage Rooms are found in the and we found “If we can, we will” to be the staff’s enclave just minutes by Main House and nearby farmworkers’ cottages. I was prevailing attitude. ferry from Miami Beach, it became our habit to most interested in the new Barn Rooms, however. Our PA escorted us to a Deluxe Room. The décor drive along the shoreline These more spacious accommodations extend onto was comfortable contemporary, and I found its mix to savor the breeze off outdoor decks and have been designed to blur the of dark woods, cream walls and judiciously placed art the ocean, and also to boundaries between indoors and outdoors. Our to be extremely pleasing. In the black marble bath, watch for dolphins, which room was awash with light from a wall of windows, we found the same attention to detail. The lighting were regularly to be seen cresting the light swells of and came with elegant Shaker-like furniture and a was perfect; we never had far to reach for towels; Biscayne Bay. Invariably, stone fireplace. The marble bath provided radiant convenient hooks beside the sculptural freestanding we would also stop in at heating, a whirlpool tub and a large walk-in shower. limestone tub provided spots for hanging robes; and the aviary, home to a small The Michelin-starred restaurant is a local a generous supply of Acqua di Parma toiletries was flock of flamingos and a number of exceptionally favorite. Chef Steven Litke meticulously sources much appreciated. tame macaws. Breakfast his produce and changes the menu constantly. It is noticeable that in-house guests are accorded would follow at the Beach The man responsible for the wine cellar, Geoff priority. Both the Capella Living Room and the Club, where we would sit Kruth, is one of just 200 people in the world to rooftop bar are reserved for residents, as is the at a table overlooking the hold the title Master Sommelier. His extensive list indoor/outdoor infinity-edge pool. Hotel guests newly raked sand. Fisher Island feels calm and came with an impressive number of half-bottles. and local residents mingle in The Rye Bar. Polished extremely safe. Cars are The Farmhouse Inn offers a small but attractive spa mahogany, subdued lighting and leather seats make abandoned at the ferry in the Carriage House, with a private patio cabana this a congenial spot year-round, but in clement dock, and residents and overlooking the pool and gardens. The hotel’s terrific weather, the canal-side patio is most in demand. hotel guests alike drive golf carts at a sedate concierge staff will help you craft itineraries to The adjacent Grill Room also offers canal views speed. For both children regional wineries and point you to nearby restaurants through a wall of glass. Overall, the Capella proved and their parents, this (though I found it impossible to tear myself away a comfortable and civilized hotel, with attentive, manicured microdot is a from the inn’s own exceptional dining room). friendly and accommodating staff. kind of mini-paradise.

January 2014 | hideaway report 3 FISHER ISLAND KINGSBRAE ARMS MIAMI, FLORIDA NEW BRUNSWICK, CANADA

THE FISHER ISLAND FERRY takes THE CHARMING little town of St. eight minutes to make the crossing Andrews lies just across the St. Croix from Miami Beach and to offload its River from Maine and is laid out on passengers in a verdant 216-acre enclave of almost a gently sloping hillside that descends to the river. surreal calm. In 1925, William K. Vanderbilt II At the crest of the hill stands Kingsbrae Arms, set Cruise of traded a 250-foot yacht for seven acres, then the in a dignified 1887 shingled house. Long a personal the Year property of real estate magnate Carl Fisher. On the favorite, it succeeds in creating the atmosphere of Preparing for our special southern shore, he constructed a stone mansion, a refined private home, with wainscoted walls, a cruise edition this year, plus three cottages to accommodate his numerous graceful staircase and rigorously selected art. I found myself in search guests. Today, Fisher Island is primarily an affluent An engaging young man — the staff all strike of a smaller vessel that would offer all the residential community; Vanderbilt’s estate, however, that ideal balance between the professional and the comfort and pleasures now forms a 41-room boutique hotel, which includes personal — took our bags upstairs to a suite that of a traditional cruise the 1920s cottages, plus Mediterranean-style villas was an oasis of civility. With a fireplace, couch and ship, but on a much more with private courtyards and Jacuzzis, and so-called Oriental carpeting, the living room proved a soothing intimate scale. My quest “guest house suites.” place to relax. Even more appealing was the splendid ended upon boarding the SeaDream I. With sleek Fisher Island Club is coming to the end of a $60 bedroom, with a four-poster bed at the head of which lines, smart dark-blue and million renovation program. This was immediately was displayed a radiant Japanese wedding kimono. white livery, and space apparent in our traditionally furnished second-floor The pleasing bath came with sea-green floor tiles for just 112 passengers, suite, which was in pristine condition. Having and a deep tub, and a large balcony afforded views of this lovely vessel is a model of sophisticated unpacked, we wandered down to the marina to the pool and the meticulously tended back garden. design. The cuisine was appraise the super-yachts. Nearby, the Beach Club Every evening, we met our fellow guests in reliably superb, and the comprises a number of airy pavilions overlooking the attractive library lounge — over perfect icy courteous crew fostered a stretch of fine white sand. Its attractive casual martinis — to compare notes about the day’s an exceptionally convivial spirit on board. If I set restaurant offers a lengthy menu of American activities. The subsequent dinners were invariably out to design a ship that and Mediterranean classics, with an alternative superb. Under the care of chef Guillaume Delaune, would appeal specifically provided by an adjacent sushi bar. That evening, we feasted on dishes such as roasted sea scallops to Harper readers, I doubt we dined at Porto Cervo, an Italian restaurant that and Brunswick porcinis, lobster served in a ginger I could do much better. offered excellent if predictable food and friendly and coriander consommé, and grilled quail Rossini, service. Other amenities on Fisher Island include stuffed with porcini and spinach and served with a 20,000-square-foot spa; a nine-hole Pete Dye golf herb risotto and Port sauce. ‘Yacht’ is course and a superb tennis center. There is much to do in the St. Andrews area, no misnomer, as it resembles Fisher Island could provide an idyllic location including whale-watching in season (May through “ the large private for a multi-generational family holiday. Certainly, I October). And I never tire of the day trip to the craft to be seen cannot think of another resort within sight of a major summer home of President Franklin D. Roosevelt in ports such as city and 30 minutes’ drive from an international on Campobello Island. Kingsbrae Arms is a place of Monte Carlo. airport that provides such a serene place to unwind. elegance, charm and genuine hospitality.

4 hideaway report | January 2014 MUKUL NAYARA HOTEL, PACIFIC COAST, NICARAGUA SPA & GARDENS LA FORTUNA, ALTHOUGH NICARAGUA has most of the ingredients required for success, THE DRAMATIC Arenal Volcano its tourism has been slower to develop lies three hours north of Costa Rica’s than expected. So I was intrigued to hear about a capital, San José. Finding tranquility new $250 million Pacific coast retreat. Located and unspoiled nature in this popular area requires two hours’ drive south of Managua, Mukul is the Best Beach some effort. There is no shortage of high-end resorts, but few are truly recommendable. My favorite was brainchild of Don Carlos Pellas, a fifth-generation Puerto Rico is not renowned Nicaraguan. A Stanford University graduate, he for its beaches, which tend the plush Nayara Hotel, Spa & Gardens. presides over an empire that includes transportation to have slightly coarse There is no need to worry about roughing it and health care, as well as sugar cane and rum. golden sand. Our first in this luxurious retreat. The 50 guest villas are Apparently, mukul is the Mayan word for stop aboard SeaDream I, separated from one another by tropical gardens, and however, was the unin- “secret.” On arrival, I was driven down a winding habited isle of Culebrita, each offers air-conditioning, cable television and road backed by the shining ocean. From time to located about 50 miles east room service. The octagonal Nayara Suites are the time, I espied the verdant fairways of the Guacalito of San Juan. It proved a largest accommodations, with hardwood floors, dark de la Isla golf course, laid out by noted architect perfect desert island, where Balinese-style furnishings and soaring cane ceilings. a cache of pirate treasure The immense limestone-clad bath occupies a full David McLay Kidd. The 12 Beach Villas come with seemed well within the terraces, palapa roofs, private pools and outdoor bounds of possibility. We half of the room, with indoor and outdoor showers, showers. Their interiors feature glass walls, nine- boarded a Zodiac, landed, dual vanities and multicolor glass windows. Outside, foot ceilings, teak furniture and squash court-size and after a short forest hike, an expansive terrace sweeps halfway around the emerged onto an unspoiled baths. Twenty-three so-called “Bohios” have been suite. I loved to start my morning there watching crescent of dazzling white constructed and appointed in a similar style on a sand backed by luminous hummingbirds dart by, the outline of the volcano steep hillside overlooking the golden sands. aquamarine water. Large, just visible through the jungle. The resort offers a seemingly never-ending list feathery palms provided a Maintenance at the hotel was flawless, but our of activities. Whale-watching, sailing and deep-sea refuge from the sun. It was meals were inconsistent. The main restaurant’s the kind of beach you dream fishing are available, and “Adventure Rangers” lead of on rainy winter evenings. shrimp brochettes were rubbery. Other dishes were excursions on 12 miles of hiking trails through For an entire morning, we excellent, however, including superb fish tacos, and dry rain forest. Guests may dine in a variety of strolled, splashed, swam tilapia in a white wine, butter and avocado sauce. I venues, including La Mesa, an atmospheric indoor and snoozed. Bliss! also enjoyed expertly mixed cocktails at the swim-up restaurant serving Mesoamerican cuisine, whose bar in the free-form pool (where a few additional walls are decorated with photographs illustrating lounge chairs were needed to accommodate all of the 135-year history of the Pellas family. The Spa Ports of call the guests at the busiest times). But I had no quibbles Mukul offers six self-contained private casitas. And offered a wide range with the small spa, where I indulged in a restorative the resort has a rum room that features offerings of opportunities volcanic mud massage. The treatment was supposed from Pellas’ Flor de Caña brand. “ to visit pristine to last 45 minutes, but my therapist worked on me Mukul has raised the bar in Nicaragua to an beaches. for an hour in a breezy, open-air room, soothing entirely new level. muscles tired from the day’s hiking.

January 2014 | hideaway report 5 CONSERVATORIUM THE ALPINA AMSTERDAM, GSTAAD,

LOCATED IN THE Oud Zuid (Old ALTHOUGH A GLAMOROUS ski South), the Conservatorium is adja­ resort, Gstaad still has the character cent to Amsterdam’s Museumplein of an unspoiled Alpine village. After a (museum square) and close to one of the city’s five-minute drive from the station, we pulled up at chicest shopping streets, P.C. Hooftstraat, as well the new 25-room, 31-suite Alpina Gstaad. This had a as to the lovely Vondelpark, with its fountains Best Pool traditional whitewashed façade with weathered pine and open-air theater. This magnificently restored Not only does the Beach balconies, a slate roof and a cozy lobby appointed 19th-century stone-and-brick neo-Gothic structure Club at Amanzo’e in with recycled timber and Swiss antiques. Upstairs, was built as a bank, but served most recently as the have a magnificent setting our Grand Luxe Suite was expansive yet homey, with municipal conservatory. on a serene Aegean bay paneled walls, a coffered pine ceiling and a stone The striking atrium lobby with its glass walls and attentive service from chimney surrounding a gas log fire. Wingback chairs a young staff dressed in and ceiling made a great first impression, and the immaculate whites, but stood before the fire; well-stocked bookshelves lent front desk staff couldn’t have been more welcoming its guests are spoiled themselves to happy browsing; and a dining area or helpful. Our Junior Suite was attractive and well- for choice by a pair of provided a pine farm table with seating for six. The thought-out. Situated under the eaves, it came with long, green stone-lined bedroom came with a Bang & Olufsen entertainment freshwater pools that run oak parquet floors, exposed beams, a soft throw parallel to the sea. system, and an adjoining dressing room provided rug and a long, linen-covered couch that was ideal A separate children’s splash ample built-in closet space; while a large, well-lit for lounging. This delightful room was the work pool ensures tranquility, bath offered a separate soaking tub and shower. of Piero Lissoni, a talented architect and designer while loungers on the large The Alpina Lounge & Bar overlooks the hotel’s surrounding deck are widely who works for many of the great names of Italian heated outdoor swimming pool, and the surrounding spaced to provide privacy. home furnishings. The bedroom was a separate area At the adjacent restaurant, mountains are visible through a wall of floor-to- with an exceptionally comfortable bed and ample we enjoyed a memorable ceiling windows. Beyond the bar, we discovered the closet space, while the travertine-lined bath came lunch of grilled red shrimp hotel’s three dining venues: a branch of New York’s with a Corian soaking tub, a separate stall shower on mixed greens, a Megu for Japanese cuisine; Restaurant Sommet, a griddled halloumi cheese and L’Occitane toiletries. sandwich with arugula, Continental dining room; and the Swiss Stübli, with The hotel offers two restaurants, the and the best taramasalata an Alpine menu featuring cheese specialties such as Conservatorium Brasserie for casual dining in a I’ve ever eaten. fondue and raclette. Down a level, the spectacular spectacular glass-enclosed interior courtyard, Six Senses Spa comes with a pool, hammam, sauna and Tunes, for more gastronomically ambitious and chromotherapy suite. cuisine. Both are under the direction of Dutch chef I have long For the next few days, we found it difficult to Schilo van Coevorden. Other amenities include considered leave the hotel because we felt so comfortable and a fumoir for cigar aficionados, and a spa with the unspoiled cosseted. The front-desk staff displayed easy good a lap pool, sauna and steam room. Throughout “ Peloponnese to be manners, while a smiling chambermaid routinely our stay, the service was excellent. Overall, the the most beautiful greeted me by name. The Alpina is an outstanding Conservatorium is a fine new hotel and a significant part of Greece. resort and a notable addition to one of Europe’s most addition to the city’s inventory. discerning destinations.

6 hideaway report | January 2014 VIGILIUS MOUNTAIN GRAND HOTEL RESORT TREMEZZO THE DOLOMITES, ITALY LAKE COMO, ITALY

ACCESSIBLE ONLY via private THE 1910-VINTAGE Grand Hotel cable car, Vigilius Mountain Resort is Tremezzo is built on a steep lakeside a magical floating world of light-filled plot, so on our arrival, we took an wood-and-glass buildings atop a 5,000-foot peak. The elevator up three floors to reception. Service at the resort comprises 35 rooms and six suites. With an front desk was charming and efficient, and we were entire wall of floor-to-ceiling windows, and doors Best Spa promptly escorted to the new, fifth-floor all-suite that opened directly to a grassy, tree-lined knoll, our Few spa treatments are as “hotel within a hotel.” expansive suite was the ultimate in indoor-outdoor reviving to the jet-lagged Unlike the opulent period décor elsewhere, living. Pale larch wood was the dominant material traveler as a Turkish these Rooftop Suites display a refined contemporary hammam ritual, particularly for floors and walls, while deep-red accents added design. Our suite comprised a sitting room with sofa when it is performed in a warmth and comfort. Well-chosen furnishings setting as spectacular as and armchair, and a white marble-topped table. A provided elegance and Tyrolean character. The the spa at Schloss Elmau in library wall unit in walnut veneer housed a Loewe exceptionally stylish bath was done in the same lovely southern Bavaria, over- sound system, plus a selection of sumptuous art larch wood, and came with a separate tiled shower. looking wildflower-speckled books. The bath was well-designed, faced in cocoa- meadows and tracts of The great luxury of staying at 5,000 feet is, of pine-forested countryside. colored travertine and fitted with a whirlpool tub course, world-class hiking right from the front door. This 32,000-square-foot and a stall shower. The best feature of our suite, After an energetic trek through the mountain pines, facility is one of the resort’s however, was a huge private terrace with a Jacuzzi, the transition to the resort’s tranquil spring-water main draws. In addition to which afforded a spectacular view over the lake. a family area with a rooftop infinity pool was extremely welcome. The excellent pool, indoor pool and The hotel’s grand and vibrantly colored public spa has an extensive menu of treatments with an fitness center, an adults- areas include a billiards room, a huge lounge and emphasis on natural oils infused with mountain only section contains an an excellent bar with a cocktail list that offered herbs. There are many secluded spots to hide away outdoor saltwater pool notable grappas. The main La Terrazza Restaurant with a book or a glass of wine. The lounge has an open facing the mountains. The offers sublime views of the lake and the town of spa’s immense hammam fireplace and an adjoining outdoor terrace, while the is reportedly the largest in directly opposite. It is overseen by 83-year- intimate library area is better suited to individual Europe west of Istanbul. It old Gualtiero Marchesi, widely considered to be the reading. There are two very good restaurants. The certainly feels authentic, founder of modern Italian cuisine. An impressive more rustic Parlour Ida serves food typical of the with platters of dates and spa offers treatments by ESPA and has a spectacular nuts laid out beneath Alto Adige/Südtirol: gnocchi-like dumplings with vaulted ceilings. In a private 50-foot indoor infinity pool. Adjustable water jets fresh slaw; chicken broth with barley and vegetables; domed room, my therapist enable swimmers to forge against a current. And homemade cakes and strudel; and an assortment of gave me an invigorating there are also five kinds of Jacuzzi, including one local wines. Upstairs, Restaurant 1500 offers light full-body scrub followed on the lakefront specifically for hydromassage. by a soap massage, in contemporary cuisine against a backdrop of soaring Golf is available at the well-regarded Menaggio preparation for which I found mountain views. Lingering over dinner and gazing myself covered by a warm & Cadenabbia Golf Club just three miles away. out at the panorama, we felt privileged to spend blanket of soap bubbles Water skiing, sailing and windsurfing can readily time in such an astonishing place. more than a foot thick. be arranged.

January 2014 | hideaway report 7 SCHLOSS ELMAU DOMAINE DES BAVARIA, HAUTES DE LOIRE LOIRE VALLEY, COMPLETED IN 1916 as a refuge for artists and intellectuals, Schloss SITUATED OUTSIDE the pretty Elmau, a 135-room resort and spa, little town of Onzain, the 36-room stands in a particularly scenic tract of pine-forested Domaine des Hauts de Loire occupies a countryside at the foot of the snow-streaked creeper-covered lodge and outbuildings surrounded Mountains. Most of the guest rooms Best Hotel by a 180-acre park. At check-in, I overheard a couple are contemporary in style. Our Junior Suite had Restaurant from Chicago tell the receptionist that this would red-and-gold upholstery on the sofa, armchair and be their 10th visit to the property. Their affection With a service style that for this civilized and casually elegant hotel turned headboard; and a limestone and sandstone bath combines European with a soaking tub and separate shower. Rooms in elegance with Asian grace, out to be quite understandable. the main building with mountainview balconies L’Abeille at the Shangri-La Though larger rooms are to be found in the are the most desirable. Paris has emerged as one annex, we had opted for one in the main house. This of the best tables in the provided a textbook illustration of French country The 32,000-square-foot spa is one of Schloss French capital. The intimate Elmau’s main draws. In addition to a family area dining room overlooks style, with exposed beams, an ivy-patterned carpet, with a rooftop pool, indoor pool and fitness center, the hotel’s newly planted and walls covered with toile de Jouy fabric. Having an adults-only section contains an outdoor saltwater private garden. Chef settled in, we joined the other guests for aperitifs pool facing the mountains, a steam room, a sauna, Philippe Labbé, who has two on a terrace running almost the length of the main Michelin stars, dazzles with hotel building. a spacious relaxation lounge and an immense dishes such as steamed hammam, reportedly the largest in Europe west langoustines with Meyer Chef Rémy Giraud’s Michelin two-star restaurant of Istanbul. lemon cream, walnut oil and is one of the principal reasons to choose this hotel. The property’s gourmet restaurant, Luce roasted coffee; sea bass Our delicious contemporary French meal featured with ceps and figs; partridge salmon rolled in sesame seeds with beet mousse, d’Oro, offered an exceptional tasting menu, with roasted in grape leaves fascinating wine pairings. A 1994 Grüner Veltliner with spiced orange purée; chicken stuffed with foie gras in a lemon verbena Spätlese came to vivid life with an exquisite dish and what might just be the sauce, and a superb cheese trolley of Loire Valley of crayfish, and an unusual Sauvignon Blanc from most delicious mille-feuille chèvres. The chef’s specialties include Aquitaine in France. Baden-Württemberg cut right through the savory caviar (cultivated in the Gironde estuary near richness of the “Surprise Egg” course, a slow-cooked Bordeaux) served with a tartare of langoustines, egg hidden amid asparagus, pork cheeks and morels. and a côte de veau pan-fried with chanterelles In Fidelio, the resort’s dramatic Italian restaurant, It proved to and accompanied by a pea coulis. My only slight I particularly enjoyed the pappardelle with rabbit be a magnificent disappointment was the wine list, which offered ragout and mustard. property with stellar a surprisingly limited selection of regional wines. “ cuisine and some of Having slept with the windows open, we awoke The property makes a convenient base for visiting a host of major sights, including King the best service I’ve to birdsong. Continental breakfast on the terrace Ludwig II’s Schloss Neuschwanstein, the Zugspitze encountered in the was followed by an hour lounging beside the large (Germany’s highest mountain) and the frescoed French capital. heated pool. We then packed our bags and departed houses of Oberammergau. with genuine regret.

8 hideaway report | January 2014 GROOTBOS PRIVATE OCEANA BEACH NATURE RESERVE & WILDLIFE RESERVE GARDEN ROUTE, NEAR PORT ALFRED, SOUTH AFRICA

IN SOUTH AFRICA, the phrase LOCATED 100 MILES east of Port “private nature reserve” usually implies Elizabeth, Oceana Beach & Wildlife big game. At Grootbos, however, Reserve overlooks the Indian Ocean the botanical world is the object of quest and and a magnificent stretch of golden sand. This curiosity. The southwestern part of South Africa unusual property is the realization of a dream held Best Wildlife encompasses the so-called “Cape Floral Region,” by Texan owner Rip Miller. At reception, I was Experience with 9,250 plant species, 70 percent of which are immediately impressed by the attractive blend of During our stay at endemic to the region. Located on a hillside 23 stonework, stucco, wooden decking and undulating Kwandwe Private Game miles southeast of Hermanus, Grootbos comprises gray thatch, as well as by the way the various Reserve in South Africa’s Eastern Cape province, two lodges with 27 accommodations, as well as structures merged harmoniously with the landscape. lions, elephants, buffalos a six-bedroom villa with its own pool and staff. Our Ocean Suite was a further pleasant and rhinos all obligingly The more traditional Garden Lodge is dedicated surprise. Beneath a soaring thatched roof, we appeared on cue. But, as to families, while the contemporary Forest Lodge found a four-poster bed, a spacious sitting area and is often the case, leopards were nowhere to be seen. is reserved for adults. two full baths. Everywhere, the attention to detail Then, late one morning, A handsome structure of local wood and stone, was commendable: The writing desk came with a our ranger’s radio crackled the main building has an exceptionally striking full complement of plugs and connections, and an with news: A leopard had interior. A sweep of floor-to-ceiling windows reveals a array of lighting controls greatly helped to enhance been sighted entering breathtaking view culminating in the massive white the room’s aesthetics. Intersecting walls of sliding a ravine not far away. In tandem with another sand dunes of Walker Bay. The property’s 16 suites glass doors opened onto a large deck that provided vehicle, we began to are really cottages, with full living rooms and small panoramic views of the beach and the ocean. search. Time passed, and kitchenettes. Large bedrooms provide four-poster After relaxing with a glass of wine, we enjoyed an it seemed that the animal beds, walk-in closets and spacious baths. The overall excellent dinner. I opted for a Thai green curry soup must have eluded us. But then, scanning the 500th aesthetic is of contemporary comfort. Bedrooms are with mussels, followed by braised oxtail served with tree with binoculars, I air-conditioned, but living rooms are not. vanilla-and-chive mashed potatoes, cumin-spiced found myself staring into The food is exceptional: Preparations are carrots and a rosemary-red wine jus. The dining tawny yellow eyes glaring not elaborate, nor need they be, with such fresh room staff were well-trained and exceptionally polite. crossly down at me. ingredients. A 4WD tour of the reserve turned The Oceana reserve, while large, is not big out to be utterly fascinating, and we spent three enough to sustain a complete ecosystem of animals. hours exploring the remarkable landscape in the Hence, there are no predators or elephants. However, It was particularly company of an exceptional guide. Horseback riding is our numerous sightings included white rhino, satisfying to have available, as are escorted beach walks, aerial tours giraffe, zebra, wildebeest and a variety of antelope. “ tracked down of Walker Bay, and boat tours to view penguins, In addition to safari drives, you can hike along four one of the world’s dolphins and, in season, whales. Grootbos is well miles of private shoreline, or just luxuriate in the most skillful and worth a trip from Cape Town and should be part of spa. Oceana provides a memorable and distinctive elusive predators. any Garden Route itinerary. experience in a singularly beautiful setting.

January 2014 | hideaway report 9 is one of the best-preserved 17th-century houses in the country. In 2009, it was purchased by media magnate Koos Bekker and his wife, Karen Roos, former editor of Elle Decoration. Their intention was to make it a personal retreat, but they soon decided to create a hotel instead. Guests stay in 14 Cape Dutch cottages arrayed along an allée of pepper trees that runs through an eight-acre garden containing more than 300 varieties Best Wine of fruits and vegetables. Our cottage, once the farm’s Tasting laundry, had white walls, creamy fabrics, a honey- hued wood floor, a woodburning fireplace and a South African wine is synonymous with dramatic raftered ceiling. The large marble bath came the Stellenbosch and with a walk-in shower and an extraordinary tub in BABYLONSTOREN Franschhoek regions east the form of a watering trough with a gently curved THE WINELANDS, SOUTH AFRICA of Cape Town. But wine wooden backrest. The Babylonstoren gardens draw production first began in THE CHIEF WINE-PRODUCING Constantia, now one of the visitors from far and wide. (They are a re-creation area of the Cape, centered on the city’s southern suburbs. of the so-called “Company’s Garden,” established towns of Paarl, Stellenbosch and There, Groot Constantia by the Dutch to provide fresh produce for sailing Franschhoek, lies less than an hour by car east of still makes superb wines. ships plying the route between Europe and the Spice In a handsome facility Cape Town. These are among the most beautiful that would put many Napa Islands.) And their fruits and vegetables fill the larder winelands in the world, backed by jagged mountains wineries to shame, we of Babel, the resort’s bright and airy restaurant. and, from November to March, reliably bathed enjoyed notable bottlings in sunshine. Babylonstoren opened in 2011 and such as the 2012 Blanc de Noir and the 2010 Comprising 15 zones devoted is set midway between Stellenbosch and Paarl. Gouverneurs Reserve, to plantings such as olive and citrus Having turned off the highway, we drove through a fine red blend. Ask to trees, stone fruits, almond trees with vineyards, above which rose the white curved gables taste the coveted Grand “ beehives, and a prickly pear maze, it is characteristic of Cape Dutch architecture. The Constance, a sweet wine an idyllic place for an evening stroll. estate dates to the late 1600s, and Babylonstoren of great distinction.

Restaurants of the Year

United States — formal United States — informal International — formal International — informal The Willows Inn Farmers Fishers La Colombe Olivier Arlot Lummi Island, Washington Bakers Constantia Uitsig, South Africa Montbazon, Loire Valley, France Inspired by an apprenticeship Washington, D.C. Tucked into a cottage on the Chef Olivier Arlot’s new at Noma in Copenhagen, Blaine Part of the Washington Harbour Constantia Uitsig wine estate restaurant displays a relaxed Wetzel has created a temple complex on the Georgetown in southern Cape Town, this style, with limestone floors and to all things local and seasonal waterfront, this distinctive restaurant deservedly wins white-painted beams, and the in his native Washington. Chef restaurant is owned by the North accolades from every quarter. service is akin to that of a chic Wetzel and his team forage daily Dakota Farmers Union. The Intimate and charming, it offers a auberge. Our outstanding meal for wild plants on the remote and menu reflects a dedication to multicourse menu of exceptionally included sautéed baby squid in a unspoiled island, and procure local products, and the interior inventive cuisine. Chef Scot Kirton reduction of Chinon wine, grilled meat and fish from within a tight reflects an artisanal aesthetic: combines contemporary French sea bream in curried tomato radius. Kale never tasted so deli- The chairs are handmade, and techniques with Asian influences. butter with a clafoutis (custard) cious as when Wetzel has crisped the impressive wood ceiling was His ingredients are impeccably of Provençale vegetables, and it and topped it with rye crumbs installed by craftsmen from fresh and locally sourced where roast guinea hen with a gratin of and black truffle. A dish of glazed Canada. For lunch, I tried the possible. We relished dishes spinach and Swiss chard. We also beets with lingonberries and rich butternut squash soup and such as Champagne-poached enjoyed a fine selection of Loire sorrel was extraordinary. And a continued with the chicken salad oysters, ostrich tataki and tartare, Valley chèvres, and concluded pink crescent of salmon smoked club. At dinner, look for hearty and quail and langoustines in with shortbread topped with for eight hours over green alder fare such as steak frites with a delicately spiced sauce. Be sautéed mirabelle plums and could almost have been candy. farmer’s whiskey sauce. prepared to linger. bergamot ice cream.

10 hideaway report | January 2014 Other highlights included a tasting at Freycinet SAFFIRE FREYCINET Most Vineyard and a bird-watching trip to Pelican Bay. TASMANIA, Memorable The food was consistently excellent. Executive Chef Hugh Whitehouse has worked in no fewer AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHS often Hike than three Harper-recommended properties. In his show the 20-room Saffire Freycinet Since my stay at Palate restaurant, Whitehouse employs the finest resort as a dramatic silver stingray Tasmania’s Saffire local ingredients in a menu that changes daily. For nestled in eucalyptus forest. At ground level, Freycinet resort, a day rarely passes when I don’t example, lunch was usually a buffet featuring freshly however, it is more low-key, with a style reminiscent recall my first glimpse shucked oysters, roasted vegetables and a variety of Northern California. The main lodge is a three- of Wineglass Bay in of imaginative salads, followed by dishes such as story building with floor-to-ceiling windows that Freycinet National Park barbecued barramundi with herb butter. afford magnificent and ever-changing views of The (a preserve named for the Saffire Freycinet is a superb hotel in a glorious Hazards mountains across the bay. French navigator Louis de Freycinet, who explored setting, a destination resort that warrants a journey Having been escorted from reception via a this coastline during the halfway round the world. covered boardwalk, we were immediately impressed early 1800s). Viewed from by the comfort and beauty of our remarkably well- a pink-granite lookout equipped and handsome suite. With an appealingly tower after a 50-minute hike in light rain that spare décor that recalled Scandinavian country caused the surrounding hotels and Japanese ryokans, the split-level space eucalyptus trees to came with eucalyptus floors, a cantilevered timber release their refreshing ceiling, and a spacious bath lined in gray stone. mentholated scent, this It did not take long for us to settle into a daily perfect crescent of white sand, lapped by a deep rhythm. After breakfast we would participate in one indigo sea and backed by of the organized activities. We especially enjoyed a thickly forested mountains, visit to the oyster-growing Freycinet Marine Farm, induced an immediate where we donned waders and strode into the sea. sense of elation.

Special Recognition

Chef of the Year Hotel Manager of the Year Sommelier of the Year Concierge of the Year Lifetime Achievement Todd Gray Olivia Richli Stéphane Thuriot Dario Cortellessa Harry Chancey Equinox, Washington, D.C. Aman Canal Grande, Venice Restaurant Königshof, Munich Mandarin Oriental, Munich Kingsbrae Arms, Canada Todd Gray’s journey has Stepping out of the water At Munich’s elegant When we stepped out of The Hideaway Report been marked by a series taxi at the hotel, we were Restaurant Königshof, our taxi at the Mandarin has bestowed previous of impressive milestones. greeted by an elegant sommelier Stéphane Oriental in Munich, the Grand Awards on this Having worked at some Englishwoman draped in Thuriot made an inspired first person to greet exceptional inn, so after of LA’s top kitchens, he a beautiful silk shawl. The pairing of a surpris- us wasn’t a bellman another utterly delightful headed to DC, where he solicitousness with which ingly ripe and velvety or a doorman, but the visit, it seemed as though put in stints at Galileo Olivia Richli inquired Württemberg Merlot with boundlessly ener- something different was and the legendary Jean- about our journey struck my saffron-infused rabbit. getic concierge, Dario in order. Owner and host Louis at the Watergate. us as entirely sincere. But the passionate Thuriot Cortellessa. Not one to Harry Chancey opened Nowadays, Gray is a She took us on a tour, and doesn’t just recommend hide behind his desk, Kingsbrae in 1996, passionate proponent her fascinating narration wines, he helps to make Cortellessa organized our serving as its first chef. of the bounty of the of the palazzo’s history them — in Greece. His 2011 luggage and escorted us Every detail — wood- Mid-Atlantic region. From helped to make us feel Nerantzi Pentapolis, a inside, ensuring that we work, wallpaper, carpets, a recent trip, I will long immediately at home. white blend of indigenous felt like returning VIPs. lighting, art, furniture remember his delicious Each day, she was to Greek varieties, tasted When the handle of a well- — reflects his zeal for herb-crusted rack of be found in the lobby aromatic and exotic, while traveled suitcase broke perfection. Chancey lamb with tomato farro, chatting with guests and his 2009 Nerantzi Thracia off, he was there to help is the embodiment of pine nut-sherry jus and offering informed dining was no less impressive. us secure a replacement hospitality and good Parmesan. Throughout and sightseeing sugges- It is a rare pleasure to bag. Cortellessa’s charm, humor, and it is therefore the meal, I kept thinking, tions. Richli is as much a encounter a sommelier efficiency and enthu- a great pleasure to salute “I wish we had this place great hostess as she is a who also had a hand in siasm always left me in a his tireless efforts and back home.” hotel general manager. making the wine he pours. brighter mood. conspicuous success.

January 2014 | hideaway report 11 LAST WORD A New Look for the Newsletter Over the past 34 years, I have made many minor changes to The Hideaway Report: The index has Indelible Memories of 2013 migrated quite frequently; column widths have waxed and waned; and TRAVEL IS OFTEN EXHILARATING and intoxicating, but it As a result, this unusual excursion proved as thrilling even the precise shade also bequeaths a fund of memories that is a lifelong source as a search for big game. of green has evolved. My of solace and delight. Here are four highlights from 2013 aim has been to prevent that will forever inspire interludes of fireside reverie. the publication from California Spa Heaven appearing old-fashioned Strolling in a Paris Market I took advantage of a rainy day to spend some time without losing its feeling in Rancho Valencia’s sumptuously remodeled spa, a of familiarity. Above all, The famous open-air food market on the Avenue I wanted its restrained 2.5-acre complex comprising a fitness center, yoga du Président-Wilson runs from the Place d’Iéna design to suggest pavilion and 10 treatment rooms arrayed around in the 16th arrondissement down to the Avenue integrity, and to inspire hushed garden courtyards. My “Sixth Sense Ritual” confidence in the reli- Marceau. We were immediately struck by the artistry started with a myrrh-infused bath on my treatment ability of its advice. I have with which the summer abundance of France was room’s patio. It felt gloriously indulgent to soak in considered using color displayed: a mound of glossy black cherries flanked photographs on innu- the fragrant water as cool, soft drizzle speckled crates of fuzzy peaches, including the juicy pêche merable occasions, but my face. Inside the treatment room, warmed by de vigne that the French especially prize; white and always worried that the a kiva-style woodburning fireplace, the ritual newsletter might come purple eggplants; and thumb-size zucchini with their continued with an expert body and scalp massage. to resemble a brochure. orange flowers still attached. At another stand, we Throughout, a laundry load of hot towels kept me Recently, however, I have fell into conversation with a farmer selling lamb, been persuaded that cozy and relaxed. Wrapped in a warmed bathrobe, fresh milk and cheeses from his farm, La Bergerie the time has come for a I left feeling thoroughly renewed and at peace. du Mesnil in Normandy’s Sainte Scolasse sur Sarthe. substantive change. In the past year, I experimented And nearby, we came upon the Bar à Patates, selling Costa Rica Quetzal with color supplements more than a dozen varieties of new-crop potatoes. on golf and cruises and There was a long line at the stand of the famous El Silencio Lodge is surrounded by a private 500- found that they were market gardener Joël Thiébault, who supplies fresh acre cloud forest reserve. Hiking in silence permits popular with subscribers. seasonal vegetables to many of the best restaurants guests to encounter a dazzling array of tropical birds So, as you will see, I have decided to take in Paris. But the grand finale was provided by the including tanagers, chlorophonia, hummingbirds and rare black guan. Despite this abundance, the plunge. Henceforth, stall of fishmonger Jacky Lorenzo, where live shrimp The Hideaway Report will from Brittany rustled under a jute cover, and the nothing prepared us for the sight of an iridescent- be a 12-page, four-color line-caught sea bass made us yearn for a kitchen. green resplendent quetzal perched in plain view. publication. I trust that its Venerated by the Aztecs and Maya, the sacred bird is new appearance will still 14 inches long, with a 26-inch tail streamer. Despite seem dignified and inspire A Botanical Safari its spectacular appearance, it is notoriously difficult trust. But perhaps it will also be more evocative, The Grootbos Private Nature Reserve is located to spot, and the encounter was unquestionably the and convey the romance near Hermanus, 100 miles east of Cape Town. The highlight of our trip to Costa Rica. of travel a little more southwestern tip of Africa encompasses the so-called directly. Of course, for

“Cape Floral Region,” a botanical paradise and hot The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper, LLC at 1601 even more extensive spot for plant diversity. Although the smallest of the Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at illustration, plus video, Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address world’s six recognized floral kingdoms, the Cape changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. be sure to visit our newly (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2014 redesigned website at region — locally called fynbos (fine bush) — boasts Andrew Harper LLC, CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means AndrewHarper.com. 9,250 species, 70 percent of which are endemic to the is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. region. We explored the reserve in an open vehicle Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Photo Editor Sarah Murphy with a passionate and wholly exceptional guide. Illustrator Melissa Colson