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Authors: Katie Rowe, Chris Moore and Alexandra Szydlowska food & drink 14 Editor: Emma Field Picture editors: Chris Moore and Katie Rowe Design & layout: Ann Cannings History & Heritage 36 Cartography: Katie Bennett Production: Charlotte Cade Project management: Ian Blenkinsop (Rough Guides) Arts & Culture 58 Rebecca Holloway (Visit ) Wildlife & Nature 80 Published 2013 by Rough Guides Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL

All text © VisitEngland, 2013 Health & Fitness 102 Image © see p.128

Printed in the UK by Ashford Colour Press Because It’s Awesome! 124 ISBN 978 1 40933 7614

The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information contained in 101 Things to do before you go abroad; however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained as a result of information or advice contained in the guide. Food & Drink

SCOTLAND 61 History & Heritage 22 Arts & Culture

Wildlife & Nature

22 49 27 Health & Fitness

Because it’s Awesome! 97

96 97 15 96

88 90 77 74 10 13 40 27 76 96

48 26 54 46 51 99 50 52 69 94 31 25 98 62 2 72 18

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79 37 87 29 42 80 21 86 67 55 83 75 81 N 64 5 93 73 86 9 20 56 8 60 38 64

66 0 50 miles map listings

26 Royal Armouries 53 See Banksy’s graffiti 79 Dungeness

27 Ride the Settle-Carlisle steam train 54 Sculpture Park 80 Watch starlings circle West Pier food & drink 28 Sissinghurst Castle gardens 55 Dress up for Bestival 1 Oysters in Whitstable 29 Maritime history in Buckler’s Hard 56 St Ives 2 Have a pint in England’s oldest 30 Visit 57 Shop ‘til you drop at Birmingham’s 3 Fish ‘n’ chips in Aldeburgh Health & Fitness 31 Chester Rows Bullring 4 Ludlow Food Festival 32 58 81 Coasteering in Sleep at Discover Shakespeare’s Stratford 5 Tour Brixham Fish Market 33 59 82 Scale England’s highest peak See the Changing the Guard Ashmolean 6 Mix martinis in Bond’s spiritual home 60 83 Sail like an Olympian ceremony Watch an open-air play 7 Indulge with The Pudding Club 34 84 Walk to the White Horse at Uffington Royal Observatory at Greenwich 8 Eat a proper Cornish 35 85 Go ice skating on Follow in Roman footsteps Wildlife & Nature 9 Tour a Gin Distillery9 36 86 Walk the 61 10 Afternoon At Bettys 37 Farne Islands 87 Historic Dockyards Pony trekking in The 62 11 Go for a curry in Birmingham 38 Holkham Beach 88 St Michael’s Mount Mountain biking in Dalby Forest 63 12 Start the day with a full English 39 Catch the Severn Bore 89 Windsor Castle Soak in Bath’s thermal waters 64 13 Eat chocolate in 40 Eden Project 90 York Minster Caving in the Yorkshire Dales 65 14 Brixton Village and Market Row Twitch on Island 91 Canoe along the Wye Valley 66 15 Taste gingerbread See exotic plants and animals 92 Wild swimming in Grassington arts & culture 67 16 Dine in Bray Glimpse rare red squirrels 93 Surfing in Newquay 68 17 Tour an English vineyard 41 Experience London’s South Bank Spot deer in the city 94 Rock climb in the 69 18 Taste Colston Basset stilton 42 A weekend in Brighton Roam the Peak District 95 Up at 70 19 Drink real cider in an orchard 43 Visit free and galleries Search for monkey orchids 96 Trek from coast to coast 71 20 Have a truly English cuppa 44 Follow in Jane Austen’s footsteps Spot damsels and dragons 97 Learn the art of mountain biking 72 45 Join a bat patrol at Cheddar Gorge 98 Dress up for Royal Ascot Go Ape in Sherwood Pines 73 46 The Lost Gardens of Heligan 99 history & heritage Devote a weekend to football Walk the Pennine Way 74 47 Art in Margate Bempton Cliff’s bird colonies 100 Raft down an Olympic course

21 Castle 48 75 ’s ponies See the Blackpool Illuminations 22 Ancient history in 49 76 Malham Cove Have a night on the toon Because it’s Awesome! 23 Punt along the Backs 50 77 Snowdrops at Escape to Another Place 24 Visit the code-breakers 51 78 Havergate Island 101 John Rylands Library Cheese rolling at Cooper’s Hill 25 Lincoln Cathedral 52 Take a Magical Mystery Tour foreword In my role, I am regularly asked enthusiastic public. Between us, made no attempt to arrange the what makes England such an we were able to choose this 101 experiences into any order exciting and beautiful place to ultimate list of English “must-dos” – that would have been almost visit. There is no easy answer which we hope will inspire you impossible. to this question. There are so to explore this wonderful country After days of passionate many wonderful experiences and discover some hidden gems debating, here it is. I’m thrilled that define this country that I find on your doorstep. that some of my own personal it almost impossible to choose The selection process favourites have made the final my favourites. Choosing the wasn’t easy. We wanted list but am equally delighted to top 101 therefore proved to be the final 101 to be a mix of see some experiences that are extremely challenging. the most incredible, unique new even to me. I was thrilled to work with and quintessentially English I hope you enjoy the panel of experts brought experiences. We have such an experiencing 101 Things to do in to help narrow down the embarrassment of riches in this as much as we have enjoyed Lady Cobham thousands of suggestions that country, that we couldn’t include compiling it. Penelope, Viscountess Cobham were put forward by a clearly every single landmark, and we Chairman, VisitEngland Introduction Given the modesty of its But all too often England is It’s been a huge privilege scale, England deservedly sits stereotyped and pigeon-holed as for Rough Guides to have amongst the big-hitters. the land of Big Ben, collaborated with VisitEngland Packed into its borders are Palace and Stonehenge. Whilst on this book and great peerless historical and heritage those iconic sights really should fun to have witnessed first sites; vibrant, blink-and-it’s- be experienced at least once hand how passionate and changed cities; truly unique in a lifetime, this book is also generous people have and seductive landscapes and interested in uncovering all the been in nominating their a food and drink culture that places in between, the places favourite places. I hope you has quietly snuck up on the that the locals love and enjoy enjoy discovering England’s global competition to gain time and again – the places unmissable 101 best as much international renown. that make England special to as I have. the English. ManagingClare Director, Rough Currie Guides the panel

Food & Drink Wildlife & Nature Meet our expert: Skye Gyngell Meet our expert: Bill Oddie A critically acclaimed chef, Skye has worked in Wildlife is a lifelong passion for Bill some of the best in the world. She as well as his day job. He knows the call of a moved to London from her native , joined blackcap from the chirp of a chiffchaff and is The Dorchester, and has since fallen head-over- an expert on the best spots in England to get up heels with England’s ever-evolving food scene. close and personal with everything from otters For her, nothing beats perfectly ripe English to rare butterflies, although twitching is still his strawberries with lashings of Cornish number one reason to go on holiday. on a summer’s day.

History & Heritage Health & Fitness Meet our expert: Yeoman Warder Meet our expert: Sonali Shah Barney Chandler Sonali is a health and fitness guru. She was Beefeater Barney lives and breathes history part of the presentation team for the London and heritage. For a start, he calls the Tower of 2012 Olympics and a judge for Young Sports London home. He also works there as a Yeoman Personality of the Year. When she’s not busy Warder, looking after the Tower’s famous presenting sports programmes, Sonali loves ravens. When he’s not looking after mischievous nothing more than tramping through the English birds, Barney shows visitors around the royal countryside on a long-distance walk through the palace, filling them in on its rich and somewhat charming Cotswolds countryside followed by a gruesome history. well-deserved pub lunch.

Arts & Culture Because it’s awesome! Meet our expert: Clemency Burton-Hill Meet our experts: Wallace and Grommit Clemency is crazy about culture. She’s a When Wallace isn’t inventing labour-saving regular on BBC2’s Culture Show, has her own gadgets, he’s roaring along the lanes of show on BBC Radio Three and has previously on his motorbike. In the sidecar is his presented The Proms. Clemency can often be faithful four-legged friend Gromit, who would spotted mooching around the John Rylands most likely rather be knitting, or reading the Library in Manchester admiring the first edition paper in a nice comfy chair. Together, the pair of Shakespeare’s sonnets or meandering along have been to the moon in search of cheese, London’s Southbank, popping into the various battled a were-rabbit and won three cultural attractions along the way. Oscars. That’s pretty awesome. Food & DRINK

Oysters in Whitstable...... 1 Start the day with Have a pint in England’s a full English...... 12 oldest pub...... 2 Eat chocolate in York...... 13 Fish ‘n’ chips in Aldeburgh ...... 3 Brixton Village Ludlow Food Festival...... 4 and Market Row...... 14 Tour Brixham Fish Market...... 5 Taste Grasmere Mix martinis in Bond’s gingerbread...... 15 spiritual home...... 6 Dine in Bray...... 16 Indulge with Tour an English vineyard...... 17 The Pudding Club...... 7 Taste Colston Basset stilton...... 18 Eat a proper Cornish pasty ...... 8 Drink real cider Tour a Gin Distillery...... 9 in an orchard...... 19 Afternoon Tea At Bettys...... 10 Have a truly English Go for a curry cuppa...... 20 in Birmingham...... 11

“London’s scene is one of the most exciting in the world but there is a foodie revolution taking place in restaurants, markets and local high streets all over England too. From Whitstable’s exquisite oysters, to melt-in-the-mouth farmhouse cheeses available from Ludlow delicatessens, English produce is phenomenal and it’s getting even better with more artisan producers appearing all the time.”

Skye Gyngell I0I Things to do Food & Drink 1 Oysters in Whitstable 2 Have a pint in England’s oldest pub Venues throughout Whitstable’s town centre, harbour and beaches Nottingham www.whitstableoysterfestival.co.uk Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, Nottingham NG1 6AD www.triptojerusalem.com

Judge’s pick Eating oysters in Whitstable has The chic and compact town of Backing into the network of caves poltergeist-driven antics, which the to be a favourite of mine. I love Whitstable is one of England’s built beneath Nottingham Castle, Ye proprietors tell with aplomb. oysters, they really are one of my favourite treats, and growing up coolest seaside hangouts and Olde Trip to Jerusalem takes the prize Once you’ve quaffed a pint I remember reading books that its oysters are to die for. Come for England’s most eccentric pub. ‘The of the house dark ale, you might Whitstable featured in. So I think the July, dozens of stalls open for Trip’ (as it is affectionately known) is be brave enough to take a tour combination of the two – a food I business and the pebbled beach regarded by many to be England’s of the pub’s rear drinking rooms really love to eat and a town I read heaves with foodie fans indulging oldest watering hole, established in and cellars, which are stuffed with about thousands of miles away – makes this a special choice for me. in freshly-caught European oysters 1189 AD and frequented by Richard unusual relics. Watch out for the during the week-long Whitstable the Lionheart’s crusading knights. cobweb-ridden ‘Cursed Galleon’, Skye Gyngell Oyster Festival. Weaving further intrigue into The Trip’s said to bring a gruesome death on past are tales of ghost sightings and all who dare dust it!

16 17 I0I Things to do Food & Drink 3 Fish ‘n’ chips in Aldeburgh 4 Ludlow Food Festival Shropshire Aldeburgh Fish and Chip Shop, 226 High Street, Aldeburgh IP15 5DB Venues throughout Ludlow and Ludlow Castle, Castle Square SY8 1AY www.aldeburghfishandchips.co.uk www.foodfestival.co.uk

Crisp golden batter, flaky white fish You’ll find a superb fish supper Ludlow takes food very seriously. Every that lets you chomp through various and fresh chunky chips doused in or takeaway at the family-run September, this small Shropshire town competing bangers, lovingly made by salt and vinegar. Fish ‘n’ chips is Aldeburgh Fish and Chip Shop, puts on a gastronomic spectacular, independent butchers all eager to be England’s signature dish, and where whose famous , with more than 160 independent crowned Sausage of the Year. better to eat it than in one of the deliciously fried in beef dripping, producers gathering in the grounds Ludlow is year-round foodie finest seaside resorts around. With have been lauded as some of the of the medieval castle to tempt you destination too. There are three pastel-painted homes looking out to best in Britain again and again with everything from rare breed Michelin-starred restaurants, specialist sea and a pebble beach topped by reviewers and foodies from far Longhorn beef to alcoholic cupcakes. delis and a farmers market where all with fisherman’s huts selling the daily and wide. The queue, which often Watch chefs cooking up a storm, and the produce is grown, bred, caught, catch, Aldeburgh encapsulates the stretches right around the block, get stuck into the famous Sausage pickled, brewed and baked within a quintessential English seaside scene. speaks for itself. Competition – a festival highlight 30-mile radius by the stallholders.

18 19 I0I Things to do Food & Drink 5 Tour Brixham Fish Market 6 Mix martinis in Bond’s spiritual home New Fish Quay TQ5 8AW London www.englishriviera.co.uk DUKES, St. James’s Place, London SW1A 1NY www.dukeshotel.com

An early morning visit to Brixham’s Tours of the market are led by Tucked away behind the grand Barman Alessandro Palazzi is a fish market is the most authentic Rick Smith, a man with decades of Georgian facades of Mayfair, is the cocktail connoisseur: he’ll teach you way to experience coastal life in experience in the fish trade. Though small but perfectly formed DUKES how to make the perfect martini, the southwest. Local fishermen haul the tours start early, the hustle and hotel. It’s a truly English affair with the along with other classic tipples, in fish worth more than £25 million bustle of buyers haggling with equally small but charming DUKES while filling you in on the story a year, the highest value catch in fisherman while the rest of Brixham Bar, world renowned for its cocktails. behind each beverage. After you’ve the country. Huge seabass, stacks still sleeps, followed by breakfast This is where Ian Fleming used to picked up a few tricks of the trade of scallops and trays of plaice go at the Fishermen’s Mission as the drink martinis, which makes it the from Alessandro, you’ll be able to under the hammer every morning sun rises over the harbour is more best place to learn how to mix James mix your own martini – shaken not and are delivered to top restaurants than worth dragging yourself out of Bond’s drink of choice would be stirred of course. across Europe. bed for. proud to drink.

20 21 I0I Things to do Food & Drink 7 Indulge with 8 Eat a proper Cornish pasty The Pudding Club Cornwall Cotswolds Redruth Visitor Centre, Alma Place, Redruth TR15 2AT www.visitredruth.co.uk Three Ways House Hotel, Mickleton, , Gloucs GL55 6SB www.threewayshousehotel.com

Join a foodie revolution where You may well need a lie down There may be a plethora of pasty The Cornish pasty was invented pudding is king. The Pudding Club afterwards so you’ll be glad shops in the country but there’s in Redruth – the former heart of the at the Three Ways House Hotel is to know the hotel has a quirky only one place in the world where tin mining industry – as an all-in-one devoted to keeping good old English collection of themed rooms to check you can get the authentic pasty meal for the miners. The town is puddings on the menu with regular into. The Syrup Sponge Room experience and that’s Cornwall. now part of the Cornwall and West events dedicated to post-dinner comes with its very own Lyle’s lion There’s nothing quite like sinking Devon Mining Landscape Unesco indulgence. Do your part to keep the and the Chocolate Suite’s bed is your teeth into a locally-made World Heritage site, which you sweetest of English traditions alive topped with chocolate-shaped Cornish pasty bursting with a can explore on a bike trail. Even by sliding your spoon into custard- cushions. You’ll even find organic humble yet tasty filling of meat, better, time your trip to coincide drenched spotted dick and sticky chocolate shampoo and bath foam potato, swede plus a few other with the Mining and Pasty Festival toffee pudding. in the bathroom. secret ingredients. in September.

22 23 I0I Things to do Food & Drink 9 Tour a Gin Distillery 10 Afternoon Tea At Bettys Devon Yorkshire 60 Southside Street, The Barbican, PL1 2LQ 1 Parliament Street, Harrogate HG1 2QU www.plymouthdistillery.com www.bettys.co.uk

Drink up the authentic English gin If you’re as much of a fan of No Yorkshire holiday is complete Yorkshire now has six Bettys. To experience by taking a 40-minute gin as Churchill was of Plymouth without an indulgent hour or two at see where it all began in 1919 stop tour of the Black Friars Distillery, Gin martinis, opt for the Master Bettys – a local institution with a tea list by the Harrogate branch and treat the oldest working gin distillery in Distiller’s Private Tour where you’ll as long as your arm and a tempting yourself to cream cakes, fresh scones England. You’ll be guided around have the chance to create and distil selection of local and continental and raspberry-studded macaroons the working home of Plymouth Gin your very own gin recipe. And if desserts. Swiss confectioner Frederick washed down with a steaming brew. since 1793, find out about the that still hasn’t quenched your thirst Belmont created a delicious union The light and airy surrounds still offer history of the distillery, which used for the crisp juniper berry-infused between Yorkshire and Switzerland plenty of early 20th-century charm, to be a monastery, and get an beverage, there are plenty of gin over 90 years ago, combining his with quaint views of the Montpellier introduction to how Plymouth Gin cocktails to choose from at The homeland’s famous chocolate roll with Gardens through gleaming is made. Refectory bar. a good old Yorkshire brew. Edwardian windows.

24 25 I0I Things to do Food & Drink 11 Go for a curry 12 Start the day with in Birmingham a full English London Within the Sparkhill, Balsall Heath and Moseley areas of Birmingham E Pellicci, 332 Bethnal Green Road E2 0AG www.balti-birmingham.co.uk

Curry has become one of England’s Asian restaurants entice hundreds of Kick off the day with a full English Green, all eager to tuck into their national treasures, with at least hungry customers at a time with the breakfast in London’s East End. famous fry-up amid the - 18 tonnes of chicken tikka masala robust aromas of cardamom, cumin Eggs, bacon, sausage, beans, II listed café’s art deco wood wolfed down in Britain each week. and turmeric. grilled tomatoes, mushrooms and panelling, stained glass and old But there’s certainly more to the Keep your Brum foodie maybe even black pudding or hash family photos. This small and nation’s curry obsession than just experience as authentic as possible browns if you’re feeling naughty, all relaxed restaurant has been run one dish, and one of the best and opt for a sizzling balti – a dish piled on one plate. Not forgetting by the same Italian family since places to explore the dazzling that many believe has its origins buttered toast and a pot of tea on it opened in 1900 and it’s the array of spicy fare on offer is in in Birmingham. Team it with an the side. atmosphere and friendly staff as Birmingham, Britain’s curry capital. enormous naan bread at popular You’ll often see a queue of much as the fry-ups that make this In the city’s Balti Triangle, over 50 balti restaurant Al Frash. people outside E Pellicci in Bethnal place an institution.

26 27 I0I Things to do Food & Drink 13 Eat chocolate in York 14 Brixton Village Yorkshire and Market Row Venues throughout York London www.visityork.org Coldharbour Lane, London SW9 8PR www.brixtonmarket.net

The city that was once host to a with cocoa history, local chocolate- Brixton has always danced to Here you’ll find more than Roman emperor, Viking warriors and making secrets and delicious sweet the beat of its own drum and the twenty eateries serving cuisine from Saxons also proudly revels in its long treats to try along the way. independent restaurants, bars and every corner of the world. Franco history with the cocoa bean, which Afterwards, move on to York cafes that huddle together in Brixton Manca’s organic pizzas are a firm dates back to the early 18th century. Cocoa House to indulge in a Market’s vaulted arcades are a favourite with locals and nine times In the birthplace of both Rowntree’s chocolate-themed afternoon tea. If perfect of this. There’s a out of ten you’ll have to queue, but and Terry’s of York, the best place to you can fit anymore in, Monk Bar charisma to the bustle of diners and the warm thick sourdough crusts, begin your chocolate-fuelled journey Chocolatiers on The Shambles is aromas that emanate from this hidden which are as good as anywhere is at York’s newest chocolate-themed York’s oldest artisan chocolatiers, food court that you just can’t recreate else in the world, are more than attraction, CHOCOLATE – York’s selling chocolates moulded into anywhere else and that’s what makes worth the wait. Sweet Story, filled chock-a-block everything from stilettos to swans. it such an exciting place to eat.

28 29 I0I Things to do Food & Drink 15 Taste Grasmere gingerbread 16 Dine in Bray Grasmere Gingerbread Shop, Church Cottage, Grasmere, LA22 9SW Bray SL6 www.grasmeregingerbread.co.uk www.visitsoutheastengland.com

No trip to the Lake District would Miss Potter) and Tom Cruise are It’s fair to say Bray is big on restaurant that plays mind games be complete without a stop off at both fans of the gingerbread, which gourmet food. This quiet village with its diners. the Grasmere Gingerbread Shop was first created by local with rows of characterful cottages Also in Bray, Blumenthal’s The to stock up on one of the Lake Sarah Nelson in the 1850s. Visitors and narrow streets on the banks of Hind’s Head has a Michelin star, as District’s most famous exports. have been flocking to the shop the River Thames is an unexpected does The Royal , just outside Loved by celebs and locals alike, ever since to get their hands on the foodie haven. It’s home to two of Bray, which brings the village’s the 19th-century recipe for these gingerbread along with Rum Butter, Britain’s four restaurants with three Michelin star tally to a mouth- crumbly gingery slabs of goodness another Cumbrian delicacy brought Michelin stars: , watering eight. It’s also a hotspot is top secret. into Cumbria’s ports by merchant owned by the legendary Roux for gastro and riverside dining A-list actors such as Renee ships from the West Indies in the family, and ’s with blissful views from the parish’s Zellweger (who visited while filming late 18th century. The Fat Duck, a ground-breaking three miles of riverside frontage.

30 31 I0I Things to do Food & Drink 17 Tour an English vineyard 18 Taste Colston Basset stilton Denbies Wine Estate, RH5 6AA Colston Basset Dairy, Harby Lane, Colston Basset NG12 3FN www.denbies.co.uk www.colstonbassettdairy.co.uk

In the heart of the Surrey Hills, of the estate and do a guided wine Colston Basset’s stilton is legendary. farms. Full fat milk is collected fresh overlooking Box Hill, Denbies is tasting. You can buy many of the This tiny village in the Vale of Belvoir from their cows each day before a England’s largest single estate award-winning wines in the well- has a proud history of cheese careful process is undergone to form vineyard. Its position on a south- stocked gift shop, including the production, especially that of stilton, the smooth and creamy cheese with facing slope in a sheltered valley 2010 Denbies Chalk Ridge Rosé, whose certification trademark limits its distinctive blue veins of mould. with the fertile chalk soil of the North winner of the International Wine its production to Nottinghamshire, Adjacent to the dairy is their shop, Downs ensure excellent vine-growing Challenge Gold Award, which and . selling the famous stilton along with conditions, producing what many makes it the best rosé in the world, The time-honoured tradition (and smaller amounts of white stilton consider to be the country’s finest but we think they’re best enjoyed in method) is preserved at Colston and Shropshire blue. This cheese’s sparkling and table wines. the Gallery Restaurant, with views Basset Dairy, a co-operative formed melt-in-your-mouth perfection is worth Jump aboard a train for a tour across the rolling 265-acre estate. in 1913 from local pastures and travelling for.

32 33 I0I Things to do Food & Drink 19 Drink real cider 20 Have a truly English cuppa in an orchard Cornwall Tregothnan Tea Estate, Truro TR2 4AN www.tregothnan.co.uk Broome Farm, Peterstow, Ross-on-Wye HR9 6QG www.broomefarmhouse.co.uk

Tucked away in a quiet corner of from the press and a natural process Holidaymakers in India and Sri placid climate, thanks to the cooling the Wye Valley, the 300-year-old of fermentation, this is definitely no Lanka visit tea plantations in their breath of the Atlantic Ocean, creates working cider farm produces some tractor fuel, nor is it your artificially hoards, but a good hot cuppa is an optimum conditions for the plant to of the sweetest tipples around. In carbonated pub pint. English institution and they do it to thrive, producing some of the world’s the skilled hands of the Johnson Taste the difference for yourself perfection at Tregothnan. Home to most delicious . family for over 70 years, the 45 on a tour of the farm, including a the Boscawen family since 1335, Try it for yourself at Tregothnan’s acre orchard produces sweet, walk in the orchard, particularly this historic estate has been supplying Tea Bar, selling everything from their medium and sparkling apple and worth witnessing in full bloom, England’s first and only tea since bold and full-bodied Classic Tea to perry cider from some 40 varieties before drawing a cool and crisp 2005, though it is thought to have the refreshing Afternoon Tea and of cider apples and 30 pears. draught straight from the barrel in been growing the Camellia sinensis healthsome Manuka honey and Made using whole juice straight the cider cellar. bush ornamentally for 200 years. Its herbal infusions range.

34 35 history & Heritage

Tintagel Castle...... 21 Chester Rows...... 31 Ancient history in Sleep at Hampton Northumberland...... 22 Court Palace...... 32 Punt along the Backs...... 23 See the Changing the Guard Visit the code-breakers...... 24 ceremony...... 33 Lincoln Cathedral...... 25 Royal Observatory Royal Armouries...... 26 at Greenwich...... 34 Ride the Settle-Carlisle Follow in Roman footsteps...... 35 steam train...... 27 Tower of London...... 36 Sissinghurst Castle gardens..... 28 Portsmouth Historic Dockyards 37 Maritime history in St Michael’s Mount...... 38 Buckler’s Hard...... 29 Windsor Castle...... 39 Visit Stonehenge...... 30 York Minster...... 40

“Everywhere you look there is evidence of England’s illustrious past. Romans conquered and built baths and amphitheatres, Vikings invaded and left us all sorts of priceless treasures, and zealous kings and queens have left their mark with hoards of palaces and castles. There really is no better place to experience history and heritage than England. It’s just one massive floating artefact!” Yeoman Warder Barney Chandler I0I Things to do History & heritage 21 Tintagel Castle 22 Ancient history in Cornwall Northumberland Bossiney Road, Tintagel PL34 0HE Northumberland www.english-heritage.org.uk Numerous sites of interest throughout Northumberland www.visitnorthumberland.com

Judge’s pick I’ve chosen Tintagel Castle in Cornwall because these incredible Oozing an inimitable mythical The northeast of England is teeming and beyond is an incredible piece ruins, perched on a cliff-top, are charm, these ancient ruins with history. Its dramatic golden- of Roman history: the Unesco steeped in legend and mystery are magnificently poised in a sand coastline is dotted with World Heritage site of Hadrian’s – they’re said to be the home of . I remember visiting this breathtaking position looking out to ancient castles, such as the mighty Wall. Designed to partition Roman- beautiful village as a child and still sea. Complete the trip with a visit Bamburgh Castle, staring out to the occupied England from , recall the spectacular setting of the to Merlin’s Cave nearby. Beautiful North Sea from its defiant perch on the wall’s route stretches for 73 castle to this very day. at any time of year, a summer a rocky outcrop. Further inland you’ll miles, with many areas still largely

Yeoman Warder Barney Chandler sunset from these crumbling walls is find the magnificent Alnwick Castle, intact. The county is also strewn with something extra-special to behold. now immortalised as Hogwarts in pieces of mysterious rock art that the Harry Potter films. are estimated to date back as far as Snaking across this landscape 6,000 years.

38 39 I0I Things to do History & heritage 23 Punt along The Backs 24 Visit the Code-Breakers Bletchley Park Numerous punt hire companies in Cambridge The Mansion, Bletchley Park, Milton Keynes MK3 6EB www.visitcambridge.org www.bletchleypark.org.uk

The golden buildings of Cambridge’s John’s. Just remember to duck for Of all of the dramatic and decisive The undisputed highlights of world-famous historic colleges are the bridges! theatres of conflict during the Second Bletchley are the supposedly beguiling enough from the city’s If you’re worried about falling World War, there are few more unbreakable Enigma machines winding cobbled streets, but hop on in – it does happen – hire a guide inconspicuous than the grounds of an but it’s the stories of espionage, board a punt to view The Backs in to do the punting while you watch old rural mansion on the outskirts of deception, ingenious endeavour time-honoured tradition from the River the world go by. Pack a picnic to Milton Keynes. But it was here that and bravery that really bring this Cam. You’ll drift past King’s College have in the punt or spread out for a Britain’s brainiest did battle with the place to life. Make time to wander Chapel, the Wren Library at Trinity snooze beneath the trees that line the ingenious cryptographic exertions of the grounds where mathematical College, the wooden Mathematical river bank, with your straw boater the Third Reich. And it was here they genius Alan Turing used to walk Bridge and the Bridge of Sighs at St hat dipped lazily over your eyes. triumphed, saving countless lives and his cat and see the wartime mini speeding the fall of Hitler. cinema too.

40 41 I0I Things to do History & heritage 25 Lincoln Cathedral 26 Royal Armouries Lincoln Minster Yard LN2 1PX Armouries Drive LS10 1LT www.lincolncathedral.com www.royalarmouries.org

Not only is Lincoln Cathedral such a remarkable and spellbinding England has got itself into a fair is the remarkable Hall of Steel, a widely regarded as one of the finest place. Watch out for the Lincoln few scraps over the years and you glass and steel stairwell decorated examples of Gothic architecture in Imp, a tiny mischievous-looking can learn about its long military with 2,500 pieces of 17th-century Europe, but for nearly 300 years, figure perched atop a pillar, and the history at the Royal Armouries, and 19th-century military it was the tallest building in the tiny cat and mouse carved into the part of Britain’s oldest museum. equipment. world, reaching higher than the masonry. The Medieval Library, built Housing over 8,500 objects in six Another highlight is the Tournament Great Pyramid of Giza. It’s still as in 1422 and filled with books even amazing galleries, this purpose-built gallery, part of which focuses on impressive today – the medieval older than the cathedral, is worth museum houses a cornucopia of Henry VIII who, when in his prime, spire is 160 metres tall – but the making time for too. war, tournament, self-defence and was one of the best jousters in devil, as they say, is in the detail. hunting accoutrements from across Europe. If you can, time your visit to It’s the intricate touches that make this the world. At the centre of it all see a live jousting tournament.

42 43 I0I Things to do History & heritage 27 Ride the Settle-Carlisle 28 Sissinghurst Castle Gardens steam train Kent Northern England Biddenden Road, near Cranbrook TN17 2AB www.nationaltrust.org.uk The Settle-Carlisle Partnership www.settle-carlisle.co.uk

Hark back to a time when the world pathways and contours over rivers Nestled around the ruins of an architectural framework, produces a was powered by coal with a ride and ravines, and taking 20 viaducts Elizabethan manor house, Sissinghurst series of outdoor ‘rooms’, each with a on the Settle-Carlisle Railway. Begun and 14 tunnels in its stride. is known to green-fingered enthusiasts different feel. in 1869 and constructed almost A selection of charter companies the world-over as the epitome of an You need only meander through entirely by hand over seven years, operate steam tours along the English country garden, and not without the cool beauty of the White this 72-mile line was designed for line, allowing you to soak up the reason. Conceived in the 1930s by Garden to fall in love. Surrounding speed to compete for the lucrative scenery in style from the comfort diplomat Sir and it all are acres of gently undulating Anglo-Scottish passenger market. of a vintage carriage. The views his wife, writer Vita Sackville-West, countryside and dense woodland, The result is an incredible elevated alone though are worth the trip at the gardens are of huge importance perfect for a romantic stroll of your route that slices across the scenic other times when normal services in English garden design. Vita’s own. Visit in the summer for some Pennine hills, following natural are operating. overflowing, apparently artless planting incredible floral aromas. contained within Harold’s strong 44 45 I0I Things to do History & heritage 29 Maritime history in 30 Visit Stonehenge Buckler’s Hard New Forest Off the A344, Amesbury, Wiltshire SP4 7DE www.english-heritage.org.uk Beaulieu, SO42 www.thenewforest.co.uk

This tiny shipbuilding hamlet, nestling to the Beaulieu River where the Some 5,000 years old, and inspiring sight that draws in visitors in the New Forest National Park, is likes of HMS Agamemnon, HMS partially constructed from rare from across the globe. the unlikely birthplace of some of the Swiftsure and HMS Euryalus, bluestones found 160 miles away, Grab a true sense of the place most fearsome warships ever to have veterans of Nelson’s Trafalgar, were the theories surrounding this by booking an out-of-hours visit with set sail. The settlement, originally constructed from timber from the mysterious prehistoric stone circle , when you can named Montagu Town, was surrounding forests. You can find continue to abound. Was it a enter the circle to see the stones at founded as a free port to trade with out more at the Maritime Museum temple, a solar calendar, a site for close hand. Or come on the winter the West Indies, but its ambitious and Buckler’s Hard Story, while a fairs, ritual feasting or sacrifices, or summer solstice, a time held plans for growth never materialised. riverside amble to nearby Beaulieu an observatory, a burial ground or sacred by New Age believers, for Wander down the main street, allows you to soak up the watery a centre for healing? Whatever is an experience found nowhere else lined with dusky redbrick cottages, vistas of this peaceful spot. was back then, today it is an awe- on the planet.

46 47 I0I Things to do History & heritage 31 Chester Rows 32 Sleep at Hampton Court Palace Bridge St, Watergate St, Eastgate Street, Northgate St, Chester CH1 1NG Greater London www.visitchester.com Hampton Court Palace, Surrey, KT8 9AU www.landmarktrust.org.uk

In a county famed for its black and above, with galleries overlooking The stately red-brick splendour of sculptures and ancient hedge maze white buildings, Chester is an absolute the street. Hampton Court Palace, set beside first planted around 1700. gem. It’s one of the best- preserved Although some of the facades a particularly leafy stretch of the Stay at the walled cities in Britain, with a history are Victorian copies, there are many Thames, was a favourite of Henry Georgian House – an 18th-century stretching back to the Romans. examples of original architecture VIII – and it’s little wonder why. On a mansion near Henry VIII’s Real But it’s the Rows that really set which have stood the test of time, visit to this royal abode you’ll marvel Tennis Court. You’ll get unlimited Chester apart. These galleried such as Three Old Arches in Bridge at the vast Tudor Kitchens and the access to the palace’s public medieval shops lining four of Street. Some stores even display king’s Great Hall, see a recreation areas, and, by arrangement, have Chester’s thoroughfares are unique in their Roman foundations and of his bejewelled crown and wander privileged access to the royal the world. They consist of two tiers, medieval crypts, so you can soak the magnificently manicured gardens courtyards and gardens after the one at street level, the other a floor up the history while you shop. with their elegant water features, crowds have gone home.

48 49 I0I Things to do History & heritage 33 See the Changing 34 Royal Observatory the Guard ceremony at Greenwich Buckingham Palace Greenwich Buckingham Palace, London SW1A 1AA Blackheath Avenue, Greenwich SE10 8XJ www.royal.gov.uk www.rmg.co.uk

Buckingham Palace’s famous guards, involves military precision and One of the most important and appointed the first Royal in red tunics and bearskin hats, have marching, set to music performed historic scientific locations in the Astronomer back in 1675, and it’s stood sentry over the iconic building by a Guards band. Each of the world, this Unesco World Heritage home to the 28-inch Greenwich and its royal residents for years. The traditional five Regiments guarding site is home of Greenwich Mean refracting telescope – the largest process of guards replacing each the palace – Welsh Guards, Scots Time (GMT) and the Prime Meridian of its kind in the UK and the other on duty is formalised in a Guards, Irish Guards, Grenadier line. Wherever you are on earth, seventh largest in the world. ceremony (daily between May and Guards and Coldstream Guards – you’re considered to be either east Along with fascinating insight June and alternate days throughout are recognisable by their uniform or west of here – this is the best into its extraordinary history, you the rest of the year) known as variations, creating a vivid example place in the world to set your watch. can experience the wonders of ‘Changing the Guard’. of living history. It is one of the most An observatory has stood the universe in the Planetarium’s This much celebrated spectacle iconic sights to behold in the capital. on this site since King Charles riveting displays and exhibitions.

50 51 I0I Things to do History & heritage 35 Follow in Roman footsteps 36 Tower of London Bath London The Roman Baths, Stall Street BA1 1LZ London EC3N 4AB www.romanbaths.co.uk www.hrp.org.uk

Allegedly discovered by the mythical opulent baths seen today. Their No first-time visit to London is scratching away at the walls, King of the Britons, King Bladud, history here is brought to life complete without seeing the Tower. leaving ancient graffiti while waiting back in 836 BC, Bath’s naturally through audio and guided tours, Begun in the 1080s by William the for their end. Perhaps most intriguing heated thermal waters have and costumed Roman characters, Conqueror, successive monarchs are the mysterious astrological attracted vast numbers of visitors and with the jewellery, statues and have added to its fortifications. It has engravings carved by Hugh Draper, over the years, and around them inscriptions they left behind. Bath’s at various times served as a royal imprisoned in the Salt Tower for has grown this resplendent honey- waters are the only ones of their residence, armoury, infamous prison, sorcery in 1561. Still inhabited by stoned Unesco World Heritage city. kind in the country and you can even a royal menagerie! the famous Yeoman Warders (not It was the Romans who really still bathe in the healing waters The history here is etched on to mention being the home of some ran with the idea of a restorative today, just like the Romans (see the walls, quite literally. There are rather well-known family jewels), a heated dip, and constructed the page 112). numerous examples of prisoners one-day visit may not be enough.

52 53 I0I Things to do History & heritage 37 Portsmouth Historic 38 St Michael’s Mount Dockyards Cornwall Hampshire Marazion TR17 0HS www.stmichaelsmount.co.uk Victory gate, HM Naval Base, Portsmouth PO1 3LJ www.historicdockyard.co.uk

There was a time when Britannia of his favourite vessel, The Mary It’s not often you get to follow in a Adjoining the castle is a ruled the waves. And the home base Rose; and experience Victorian giant’s footsteps. But stroll across medieval priory, built after the island for much of that wave-ruling was the conditions aboard mighty HMS the causeway at low tide to St was bequeathed to Benedictine Portsmouth Historic Dockyards. It’s Warrior, once home to 600 men. Michael’s Mount, legendary home monks by William the Conqueror. only when you visit that you realise For a blast of the present, of the Cornish giant , and Together with the village and its just how integral this place is to our Action Stations gives you a taste of you can do just that. This diminutive bustling harbour, they make an British naval heritage. Stroll along what life is like in the Royal Navy island, steeped in myth and legend, idyllic place to wander, whatever the wooden decks of HMS Victory, today, with helicopter and warship is topped by a fairy-turreted castle, the season, but head down in the to the exact spot where Admiral simulators, interactive displays and passed down through generations of summer months for a dip in the Nelson fell, mortally wounded; share one of the biggest towers the St Aubyn family and still a family glistening azure waters surrounding Henry VIII’s heartache at the sinking in Europe. home today. the island at high tide.

54 55 I0I Things to do History & heritage 39 Windsor Castle 40 York Minster Berkshire Yorkshire Windsor SL4 1NJ Church House, Ogleforth, York YO1 7JN www.royalcollection.org.uk www.yorkminster.org

With a history spanning over 900 State Apartments, filled with priceless Dominating the city’s skyline looms absorb the intricate craftsmanship and years, Windsor Castle is the oldest works of art and mesmerising items York Minster – the largest Gothic tales behind the largest expanse of and largest occupied castle in the from the Royal Collection (one of the cathedral in northern Europe. medieval stained glass in the world. world, and one of the official homes most important art collections in the Towering 53 metres, this imposing Come during term time and soak of a rather well-known person, world), Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House medieval structure, with its antique up the atmosphere as the Minster namely The Queen. and St George’s Chapel. Take a stained glass and ornate carvings, is Choir sing Evensong. Be sure to Although you probably won’t stately stroll around the beautifully breathtaking inside and out. Adding climb the tower (275 steps!) and catch her watching Coronation manicured grounds, covering five a touch of modernism is The Orb, be rewarded for your efforts with Street in the living room, you are resplendent hectares, and catch the an interpretative display containing views over the cathedral and the welcome to come and visit. The Changing the Guard – a year round actual sections of the restored East bewitching medieval city, with its castle is full of treasures such as the highlight of any visit. Window, allowing you to fully winding cobblestoned ‘snickleways’.

56 57 Arts and culture

Experience London’s Escape to Another Place...... 50 South Bank...... 41 John Rylands Library...... 51 A weekend in Brighton...... 42 Take a Magical Visit free museums Mystery Tour...... 52 and galleries...... 43 See Banksy’s graffiti...... 53 Follow in Jane Yorkshire Sculpture Park...... 54 Austen’s footsteps...... 44 Dress up for Bestival...... 55 Dress up for Royal Ascot...... 45 ...... 56 Devote a weekend Shop ‘til you drop at to football...... 46 Birmingham’s Bullring ...... 57 Art in Margate...... 47 Discover Shakespeare’s See the Blackpool Stratford...... 58 Illuminations...... 48 Ashmolean Museum...... 59 Have a night on the toon...... 49 Watch an open-air play...... 60

“We live in the most extraordinarily rich, vibrant and diverse country in the world. It’s home to some of the finest architectural edifices in the world and has one of the greatest art scenes to be found anywhere. There’s absolutely nothing that you could be interested in that England doesn’t have and that’s what makes it such an exciting place to be.”

Clemency Burton-Hill I0I Things to do Arts & Culture 41 Experience London’s 42 A weekend in Brighton South Bank London Venues throughout Brighton www.visitbrighton.com , Belvedere Road SE1 8XX www.southbankcentre.co.uk

Judge’s pick Walking across Waterloo Bridge I can’t help but feel a deep sense of London’s neon-soaked South Bank Colourful Brighton is a cultural thrills on the waltzers and looping pride as I pass some of the finest architectural edifices ever created on is perfect for a splash of arts and cornucopia of creativity, with more rollercoasters towering over the route to the Southbank, which in my culture with its world-beating than its share of festivals, museums, glittering Brighton Pier. Best save the opinion is probably the greatest arts collection of art galleries and galleries and legendary nightlife. fish and chips on the beach until institution in the world. I don’t think theatres congregating along the Start at Brighton’s ode to hedonism, afterwards, then head out to the there’s anything that you could be River Thames. the Royal Pavilion. Once George clubs, theatres, and bars that help interested in that you won’t find on that stretch of the Thames Shakespeare’s Globe, the Tate IV’s regal bachelor pad, this exotic make Brighton one of the most cultural Modern, BFI, National Theatre and, palace’s audio tour will have cities in Europe. Finish your weekend Clemency Burton-Hill of course, the Southbank Centre will you gasping and gawping from browsing the jewellers, vintage shops keep you busy for weeks. beginning to end. and boutiques of The Lanes and Next, buckle up for old-school sipping cocktails the chic bars.

60 61 I0I Things to do Arts & Culture 43 Visit free museums 44 Follow in Jane and galleries Austen’s footsteps London Hampshire Free venues throughout the city Various locations in Hampshire www.visitlondon.com www.visit-hampshire.co.uk

London is home to one of the of precious jewellery and some of From its handsome estates and through her family portraits, stroll world’s finest collections of free the finest design feats in the world genteel society life to its straw- through the pretty gardens and museums and art galleries and, at the V&A. thatched cottages and time-capsule admire the desk where she penned conveniently, three of them live Elsewhere in the capital, stare villages, Jane Austen was inspired such classics as Mansfield Park, side-by-side in the Royal Borough ancient history in the face at British by rural Hampshire, setting many of Emma and Persuasion. of Kensington and Chelsea. Stop Museum, be transfixed by modern her novels here. Lovers of her subtle, Austen loved the countryside and by the Natural History Museum to masterpieces at the ironic humour and understated prose the circular walk from Chawton to get caught up in an earthquake, and let both William Shakespeare’s will relish the chance to follow in Farringdon is a great opportunity to take a tour led by a by cockroach and David Beckham’s eyes follow her footsteps. Start your journey at see why. Round the day off with a at the Science Museum and drool you around the rooms of the the Jane Austen House Museum in visit to Cathedral, where over one of the largest collections . Chawton, where you can browse she is buried in the north aisle.

62 63 I0I Things to do Arts & Culture 45 Dress up for Royal Ascot 46 Devote a weekend Berkshire to football Ascot Racecourse, Ascot SL5 7JX Manchester www.ascot.co.uk Various football-themed attractions throughout the city www.visitmanchester.com

Few sporting events match the drama ladies and a glass of champagne Football in Manchester is pursued recent dramatic moments. and pageantry of Royal Ascot, are the de rigueur dress code, with a passion that borders on After you’ve had your fill of football where half the spectators turn up to while ‘Ladies’ Day’ sees sartorial the devout, with clubs Manchester trivia, head over to Football Plus, an see the horses and the other half creations achieve new heights of United and Manchester City two of interactive experience that allows turn up to see the spectators. For showmanship. Each day’s Royal the most famous in the world. No you to test your speed, reactions and almost 250 years, Royal Ascot has Procession gives punters and wonder then that this footie-mad city accuracy, have a pop at a penalty seen celebrities, royals and fashion’s curious visitors a chance to inspect is home to the National Football shot or give Gary Lineker a run for darlings mingle on Ascot Racecourse’s the world’s best racehorses up Museum, whose vast collection of his money in the commentator’s seat. manicured grounds every June. close, whether or not you decide to memorabilia, trophies and archival Also recommended are stadium tours Tops and tails for the gents, bid for a slice of the £4.5 million in footage takes you from the game’s of Manchester City’s Etihad and extravagant hats and heels for the prize money. early development through to its more Manchester United’s Old .

64 65 I0I Things to do Arts & Culture 47 Art in Margate 48 See the Blackpool Kent Illuminations Turner Contemporary, Rendezvous, Margate CT9 1HG lancashire www.turnercontemporary.org Promenade, Blackpool FY1 5BB www.visitblackpool.com

You’ll find creativity in abundance Emin and put a new perspective on Every autumn, Blackpool lights up Nowadays, more than a million along the Kent coast, from the Rodin’s sculpture The Kiss. A revolving the Lancashire skies with a sparkling bulbs, lasers and animatronics bohemian haven of Whitstable to collection of JMW Turner’s work sits spectacle that will leave you feeling flash, sparkle and twinkle along Folkestone’s Creative Quarter. One alongside contemporary exhibitions. dizzy. You really have to see to six miles of Blackpool’s iconic gallery that’s kicking up an artistic The surrounding area has also believe it. The flamboyant light Promenade from the end of August storm the Romantics would be truly benefitted from an arty make-over, show has been dazzling crowds until November, and they get more proud of is the Turner Contemporary, with young designers, vintage since 1912, when 10,000 bulbs extravagant each year. The very slap-bang on Margate’s seafront. enthusiasts, art lovers and cupcake- were lit to celebrate Blackpool’s best way to experience this electrical In its first year, this boundary- makers all setting up shop in the Old first British royal family visit. The extravaganza is to hop on a pushing art hub has seen a major Town over the past few years. In Illuminations have lit up Blackpool heritage tram, but be sure to book in free exhibition by local artist Tracey short, Margate is buzzing. ever since. advance as tours sell out quickly.

66 67 I0I Things to do Arts & Culture 49 Have a night on the toon 50 Escape to Another Place NewcastleGateshead Venues throughout NewcastleGateshead Mariners Road, Crosby Beach, L23 6SX www.newcastlegateshead.com www.visitliverpool.com

Geordies are some of the friendliest Gateshead Millennium bridges Forget crumbly sand sculptures; dot the bay’s wide sands, each folk you’ll ever meet. Combine that heroically stretching across the ’s Another Place is gazing out to sea from a different with a cool yet unpretentious arts River Tyne below. Next, hit Toyko seaside art on a whole new level. point, becoming increasingly scene and you’ve got yourself a night Bar to sip on weird and wonderful The sculptor who brought a giant steel submerged as the tide comes in. out in the northeast to remember. cocktails before bar hopping along angel to NewcastleGateshead has The figures are all casts of Gormley’s Start the evening with dinner the Diamond Strip, which packs a also left his artistic signature on a town own body, standing upright, hands at one of the swishest restaurants plethora of clubs and bars into a just north of Liverpool, and in doing so by his side. You can touch them, in town. Crowning the BALTIC compact area. For live music, hop transformed a sleepy shoreline into a photograph them, stand next to contemporary art gallery, Six’s back across the river to The Sage, world-famous work of art. them, or simply join them in their floor-to-ceiling windows frame the an innovative music venue with an Here on Crosby Beach, a peaceful contemplation of the glittering skyline, with the Tyne and ever-changing programme. hundred cast iron life-sized figures watery horizon.

68 69 I0I Things to do Arts & Culture 51 John Rylands Library 52 Take a Magical Mystery Tour Manchester Liverpool 150 Deansgate M3 3EH Cavern City Tours, Century Buildings, 31 North John Street L2 6RG www.library.manchester.ac.uk/deansgate www.cavernclub.org

A literary hangout for bookworms The library has a continual Tread in the famous footsteps of anecdotes and artefacts from the and architecture lovers, the John programme of temporary exhibitions a certain four lads form Liverpool pair’s lives. Rylands Library is a gargoyle- that span culture in many forms – from on a magical mystery tour of their The Beatles Story is another laden Gothic Revival masterpiece Clockwork Orange to calligraphy – home town. You can take a peek must for Beatles lovers keen to top with one of the most impressive but the exhibits that tend to provoke inside the -owned up on their Fab Four facts, and a collections of in the world. Sat within the most excited whispers are the childhood homes of fittingly musical end to your Beatles- Manchester University, it looks more 15th-century accounts of witchcraft, and Paul McCartney – two humble mania break is to demonstrate your like a cathedral with its stained glass the oldest known piece of the New Liverpool abodes that now act as best Sixties moves at a gig at The windows and grand sandstone pillars, Testament written in any language shrines to the iconic musicians – Cavern Club, before heading back but inside its Victorian bookcases are and a treasured first edition of and be transported back to the to your Beatles-inspired room at the stacked with notable literature. Shakespeare’s sonnets. 1950s as you discover fascinating Hard Days Night Hotel.

70 71 I0I Things to do Arts & Culture 53 See Banksy’s graffiti 54 Yorkshire Sculpture Park Bristol Yorkshire Graffiti sites throughout Bristol West Bretton, WF4 4LG www.visitbristol.co.uk www.ysp.co.uk

The world’s most notorious graffiti of Bristol’s cultural quarter and Lose yourself in an arty wonderland Estate’s parkland; as you wander artist might have made his satirical home to Banksy’s Mild Mild West filled with world-class works by around the swathes of greenery, meet graffiti mark all over the world mural, is a good place to start, contemporary sculptors. This vast masterpiece after masterpiece, each but Bristol is where it all began. but it’s Easton that’s a real mecca expanse of luscious 18th-century with its own personality. If there’s rain Banksy’s native city has been for street art fans. Here you’ll find parkland is decorated with in the air never fear. As well as the transformed into one big bold some of his earliest works. Watch mesmerising creations by the likes of outdoor park there are four indoor urban gallery. out for the Cat and Dog on Foster , , galleries to explore, plus talks, tours To really get under the skin of Street and the famous Masked -winner Martin Creed and family events – and even courses Banksy and the city’s street art Gorilla on Fishponds Road. and many more. in metal sculpture and stone carving if scene you’ll need to head out of Cameras at the ready! The sculptures are set against the you fancy having a go at creating a the centre. Stoke’s Croft, the heart sweeping backdrop of the Bretton your own personal masterpiece.

72 73 I0I Things to do Arts & Culture 55 Dress up for Bestival 56 Tate St Ives Cornwall Robin Hill Country Park, Downend, Newport PO30 2NU Porthmeor Beach, St Ives TR26 1TG www.bestival.net www.tate.org.uk

Where else in world can you party Every September, Bestival sends With its clean air and shimmering There aren’t any permanent at a festival featuring pole-dancing off the English summer with a sea and sands, St Ives is a true exhibitions. Instead the gallery holds robots, a Wishing Tree Stage, gloriously eccentric bang. This three- English beauty. It is in this striking three special exhibitions a year, a farmers market, a Bollywood day party on the Isle of Wight sees location that you’ll find one of meaning you’ll see something Cocktail Bar, cabaret in the Knees some of the world’s biggest stars in the country’s most mesmerising different each time you visit. You up Tent, a retro-tastic roller disco, music and performance head to the galleries. Perched on Porthmeor can save a few pounds by buying an inflatable church and a cinema south coast island to perform to a Beach, Tate St Ives is the original joint admission tickets for Tate St hidden in the forest? And that wacky welly-wearing crowd of thousands, seaside art gallery and draws in Ives and the Barbara Hepworth list hasn’t even mentioned the chart- who’ve travelled from far and wide around 200,000 visitors a year Museum, just a short walk away topping live music, or the annual to experience the festival’s magical eager to pencil a bit of culture into and well worth seeing for its fancy dress theme! and unique atmosphere. their beach break. extraordinary sculpture garden.

74 75 I0I Things to do Arts & Culture 57 Shop ‘til you drop at 58 Discover Shakespeare’s Birmingham’s Bullring Stratford Birmingham Upper Dean St, East Birmingham B5 4BP Sites throughout Stratford-upon-Avon www.visitbirmingham.com www.discover-stratford.com

When you’re perusing the likes reminiscent of something straight out Shakespeare is the most quoted every-day life in the busy market town. of Vivienne Westwood, Stella of a sci-fi film. writer in the history of the English- Each year, thousands of visitors McCartney and Alexander McQueen If designer goods are a little costly, speaking world and, for many, the flock to his Birthplace on Henley inside Selfridges at the Bullring, take the hundreds of high street brands most influential playwright of all time. Street, see the sight of his final home a minute to admire the building that that surround Selfridges will keep Politicians draw from his speeches, New Place, and visit the quaint Anne houses this legendary department you busy for days; if you’re fan of lovers swoon to his sonnets and Hathaway’s Cottage – the childhood store. Fittingly, the bubbly-surfaced, independent shops and boutiques schoolchildren grow up on a staple home of Shakepeare’s wife. See his silver edifice was inspired by a then head for Digbeth, where a family diet of his plays. Prior to carving plays brought to life by the world-class sequined dress by designer Paco of old waterside factories has been out his illustrious career in London, Royal Shakespeare Company before Rabanne. In the evenings it transforms transformed into a hub for art and Shakespeare lived in leafy Stratford- grabbing a pint at the Garrick Inn, into a neon-glowing futurist blob culture known as the Custard Factory. upon-Avon, drawing inspiration from allegedly Stratford’s oldest pub.

76 77 I0I Things to do Arts & Culture 59 Ashmolean Museum 60 Watch an open-air play Cornwall Beaumont St, Oxford OX1 2PH , , TR19 6JU www.ashmolean.org www.minack.com

Oxford University’s Ashmolean The Ashmolean began in the 1620s Carved into a granite cliff face on helped build and even financed the Museum is a haven for students, with a cabinet of curiosities donated the southern tip of Cornwall, the theatre from1931 up until her death in academics and art lovers looking to to the university by Elias Ashmole. In Minack Theatre is a wonderfully 1983. Opening with Shakespeare’s immerse themselves in cultural riches. 1683, it was formally founded as unique theatrical experience, where The Tempest back in 1932, the Behind the doors of this elegant Neo- Britain’s first public museum. A major audiences soak up opera, classic theatre today draws audiences classical building, the whole story of redevelopment in 2009 updated it dramas and musicals in the sunshine from far and wide with a packed human civilisation is told through its with a sleek, modern interior, 39 new or under the stars with the sparkling programme filling spring and summer artefacts – from pre-Dynastic Egyptian galleries and a rooftop restaurant. Be Atlantic Ocean as an appropriately months. Being open air, the English mummies to Anglo Saxon treasures sure to pick up an events programme, dramatic backdrop. weather always plays a big role, but and the largest collection of Raphael’s featuring talks with some of Britain’s The theatre was the brainchild in true English spirit performances are drawings outside of Rome. most esteemed academics. of Rowena Cade, who conceived, only cancelled in extreme conditions.

78 79 wildlife & nature

Farne Islands...... 61 Join a bat patrol at Holkham Beach...... 62 Cheddar Gorge...... 72 Catch the Severn Bore...... 63 The Lost Gardens of Heligan... 73 Eden Project...... 64 Bempton Cliff’s bird colonies.... 74 Twitch on Lundy Island...... 65 Dartmoor’s ponies...... 75 See exotic plants Malham Cove...... 76 and animals...... 66 Snowdrops at Glimpse rare red squirrels...... 67 Fountains Abbey ...... 77 Spot deer in the city...... 68 Havergate Island...... 78 Roam the Peak District...... 69 Dungeness...... 79 Search for monkey orchids...... 70 Watch starlings circle Spot damsels and dragons...... 71 West Pier...... 80

“I’ve travelled the world and I can honestly say that England is unique. For me, it’s all about the sea birds. Nowhere else in the world will you find such teeming, easy-to-reach bird colonies. My other obsession is small islands – they change every day – and England has them in abundance, from the Isles of Scilly to the Farne Islands. I’m addicted!” Bill Oddie I0I Things to do Wildlife & Nature 61 Farne Islands 62 Holkham Beach Northumberland Tourist Information Centre, Seafield Car Park, Seafield Road NE68 7SW Holkham Hall, Wells-next-the-Sea NR23 1AB www.nationaltrust.org.uk www.holkham.co.uk

Judge’s pick There are just a few places that I would recommend to anyone and feel absolutely confident that they’d Hop on a boat from Seahouses Holkham Beach forms part of a creeks make Holkham a haven for have an unforgettable experience. I have visited sea bird colonies all Harbour to discover one of the national nature reserve and has VIP flora and fauna. The number of round the world but the Farne Islands finest nature reserves in Europe. made a windswept cameo in breeding birds here is remarkable. are the best place to literally walk During the summer you can get Shakespeare in Love. With unspoilt Holkham Nature Reserve attracts among terns, shags, kittiwakes and up close to all sorts of seabirds, white-golden sand that stretches thousands of pink-footed geese as the endlessly entertaining puffins. I’d including around 37,000 pairs of for miles, its panoramic vista is a well as lapwings, larks, finches recommend visiting between April and early September, with June and loved-up puffins, and come autumn director’s dream come true. and pipits. As the weather warms July for maximum bird activity. the cute factor shoots right off But the setting isn’t the only star up croaking natterjack toads the scale with the birth of over a as it plays host to rich and varied and orchids start to make an Bill Oddie thousand seal pups. wildlife. Sand dunes, saltings, pine appearance. And summer sees a forests, marshes and a maze of purple haze of sea lavender.

82 83 I0I Things to do Wildlife & Nature 63 Catch the Severn Bore 64 Eden Project Cornwall The Severn Bore Inn, Main Street, Minsterworth GL2 8JX , PL24 2SG www.severnboreinn.co.uk www.edenproject.com

The River Severn has the second astonished ducks line the waves Rising phoenix-like from a former clay learning about the plants that bring highest tidal range in the world surging inland. pit, the Eden Project is a working us chewing gum, cupcakes and car and several times each year the But you don’t have to ride the example of sustainability practicing tyres. The Core education centre has waters rush in at speeds of up to 13 water yourself – although plenty do what it preaches. Three distinctive marvellous interactive exhibits on miles per hour (21km/h), forming – as you can watch one of Britain’s biomes, resembling giant soap ecosystems, evolution and climate waves up to 2 metres high. It’s quite most incredible natural wonders bubbles, recreate tropical, temperate change, while the enormous gift the spectacle. The largest surge from the banks. You can get a and desert environments in their role shop allows you to take a piece waves, or bores, occur around the clear view, and hear the roar of the as the world’s largest . of the Eden Project home. Look out high tides nearest the spring and bore, at night too. The Severn Bore Travel from the steamy jungles of also for the resident leaping lizards, autumn equinoxes. Surfers, kayakers, Inn floodlights the river for nocturnal the rainforest to the fragrant lemon tree frogs and ladybirds, used as a paddle boarders and some rather sightings. groves of the Californian grasslands, natural alternative to pesticide!

84 85 I0I Things to do Wildlife & Nature 65 Twitch on Lundy Island 66 See exotic plants and animals Devon Scilly Isles Lundy Shore Office, The Quay, Bideford EX39 2LY Cornwall www.nationaltrust.org.uk www.simplyscilly.co.uk

Jump on MS Oldenburg to Lundy sea fans, red sea fingers and dead With their clear, warm waters and and flocks of seabirds, including Island, a granite car-free wilderness man’s fingers can be found on Lundy towering palm trees, the Isles of puffins from April to July. If you’re rising 400ft above the spot where Island. In spring and autumn migrant Scilly are England’s answer to a lucky you might even spot basking the Bristol Channel meets the birds make these rocky reefs their tropical paradise. This amazing sharks and dolphins. Atlantic. It may be just three and a home. And it’s a top spot for manx archipelago of over 100 islands, Back on dry land, hedgerows and half miles long by half a mile wide, shearwaters, puffins and cliff nesters. located 30 miles from Cornwall, fields blaze with pink proteas in May but there is plenty of diverse sea life In May and June, look out for Lundy provides a wealth of wildlife- and scented white and gold narcissi crammed into England’s first Marine Cabbage – this type of brassica watching experiences. in October. But Scilly’s flower power Conservation Zone. doesn’t grow anywhere else in the Jump on a sea safari from St is most obvious at Abbey Gardens on Grey seal, lobsters and eight world. Mary’s, the largest of the five Tresco, blooming with exotic cacti, species of coral, including pink inhabited islands, to see grey seals plants and floral delights.

86 87 I0I Things to do Wildlife & Nature 67 Glimpse rare red squirrels 68 Spot Deer in the City Surrey Harbour, Poole BH13 7EE , Richmond, Surrey TW10 5HS www.nationaltrust.org.uk www.royalparks.org.uk

A former Second World War decoy If the thought of waiting around It might come as a surprise to Charles I moved his court to for German bombs, Brownsea is enough to drive you nuts, the discover a deer-filled oasis just a Richmond Palace, creating enclosed Island is now a haven for nature. island’s resident peacocks and sika tube ride away from the hustle and hunting grounds in 1637. Today Around two hundred indigenous red deer are much easier to see. So too bustle of central London. But it’s the only deer-stalking you’ll find in squirrels live here but these rare, are the numerous wading birds that easy to see why Richmond Park – this National Nature Reserve are bushy-tailed creatures are famously fill the island’s lagoon. Watch out home to over 600 red and fallow attempts to catch deer grazing on shy. If you want to catch a glimpse for breeding sandwich terns during deer – was once described as the camera. And the Isabella Plantation, of them, autumn is the best time to summer and avocets and black- “lungs of London”. This gorgeous an ornamental woodland garden try, although you’ll still need plenty of tailed godwits in winter. green space covers 2,500 acres bursting with violet azaleas and patience and a keen eye. and is the largest of the capital’s emerald green ferns, is the most Royal Parks. photogenic sight of them all.

88 89 I0I Things to do Wildlife & Nature 69 Roam the Peak District 70 Search for monkey orchids Peak District National Park Kent Peak District NPA, Aldern House, Baslow Road, Bakewell DE45 1AE Park Gate Down, between Stelling Minnis and Elham, Canterbury CT4 6NE www.visitpeakdistrict.com www.wildlifetrusts.org

Did you know that the Peak District explore the jagged crags that rise Orchids are a common sight in monkey orchids, one of the rarest was the UK’s first national park? This from the moorlands. In winter the flower shops and supermarkets types of orchid in Britain. The clue vast natural playground forms the spectacular mist-shrouded Kinder but nothing beats seeing the wild really is in the name, but these southern end of the Pennines. The Downfall, the Peaks’ tallest waterfall, variety in bloom, en masse, in the unusual orchids look remarkably like highest point, the gritstone plateau spews out ice formations. Head great outdoors. Park Gate Down a monkey’s face dangling down of , was the site of a towards Hathersage, 20 minutes (renamed the Hector Wilks Reserve from the stalks. famous clash between ramblers and from Sheffield, and you’ll experience in memory of a local botanist) You can also find bee orchids landowners in 1932. It resulted in panoramic vistas at Surprise View consists of acres of ancient chalk here that, yes, you’ve guessed it, the public being granted the ‘right to that seemly appear out of nowhere. grassland that attracts feeding resemble bees. And there are plenty roam’ on uncultivated land. In late August it’s swathed in the and breeding birds, adders and of violets, primroses and marjorams Pull on your boots and heady scent of heather. common lizards. It is also home to to sniff out too.

90 91 I0I Things to do Wildlife & Nature 71 Spot damsels and dragons 72 Join a bat patrol at Cheddar Gorge Wicken Fen National Nature Reserve, Lode Lane, Ely CB7 5XP www.nationaltrust.org.uk Cheddar BS27 3QF www.cheddargorge.co.uk

Wicken Fen National Nature across the fen. Britain’s largest As the sun sets, the silvery moon limestone stalactite cavern where Reserve is one of the most important dragonfly, the emperor, is common, lights up Cheddar Gorge making it endangered greater horseshoe bats wetlands in Europe with over 8,400 as well as rarer species. the perfect time to join a bat walk. scan the night air for moths and types of plants, birds, otters, water It’s crazy to think that damselflies Cheddar Gorge is made up of lots insects to feed on. The caves are voles and dragonflies. It’s also one and dragonflies have been darting of small caves but the two largest, home to the UK’s largest colony. of Bill Oddie’s favourite places to about the planet for 325 million Gough’s Cave and Cox’s Cave, are Don’t worry if you’re as blind as a spot two of the oldest insect groups years. Catch virtuoso displays of open to the public for this unique bat and have trouble spotting them in the world. On a sunny day you these mini flying dinosaurs in the wildlife experience. as the conservation officer leading might find thousands of these brightly summer months. Their glittering Once you’re kitted out with an the walk will be happy to help point coloured insects winging their way bodies will quite simply take your ultra-sonic bat detector the bat patrol them out. between ponds, ditches and lakes breath away. explores Gough’s Cave, a mystical

92 93 I0I Things to do Wildlife & Nature 73 The Lost Gardens of Heligan 74 Bempton Cliff’s bird colonies Cornwall Yorkshire Pentewan, St.Austell PL26 6EN Bridlington YO15 1JF www.heligan.com www.rspb.org.uk

On paper The Lost Gardens of there are now more than 200 acres From April to August over 200,000 Various vantage points provide Heligan may sound like a work of of luscious land to explore. seabirds call Bempton Cliffs home uninterrupted views of life at one fiction, like a scene out of Frances Marvel at the mini jungle, with and it’s a rather grand place to live. of Britain’s major bird colonies. Hodgson Burnett’s Secret Garden, its banana plantations, towering This RSPB reserve is one of the finest And when it comes to the sounds but we can assure you that they bamboo and giant rhubarbs. places in England to catch bird of the breeding season, you could are very much real. Once an And meander across the ancient migration in action. Gannets and say it’s a bit of a noisy affair. If you aristocratic estate, the grounds were woodland and lost valley, puffins reside next door to guillemots can’t tell a short-eared owl from a abandoned after the Second World remembering the way you came. and kittiwakes as they nest together sparrow you won’t miss out as there War and fell into a state of decay. Visit in spring and you’ll find on the towering chalk cliffs that rise are specially trained staff on hand But after one of the largest garden most of the gardens carpeted above the swirling North Sea. to help. restoration programmes in Europe, with bluebells.

94 95 I0I Things to do Wildlife & Nature 75 Dartmoor’s ponies 76 Malham Cove Devon Dartmoor National Park, Bovey Tracey, TQ13 9JQ Near Malham BD23 4DJ www.dartmoor-npa.gov.uk www.yorkshiredales.org.uk

Nothing says spring more than seeing of domesticated ponies dating back Malham is one of the Yorkshire and Grykes (the gaps) create a new-born foals finding their feet, or around 3,500 years were found on Dale’s hidden gems, the rich scenery unique micro-climate for rare wild rather hooves, on bluebell-clad moors. Dartmoor during an archaeological providing a source of inspiration flowers and fern. Popular with rock The pony is as deeply associated excavation in the 1970s. Though to the likes of William Wordsworth climbers and nesting peregrine with Dartmoor’s landscape as the tors, indigenous ponies are now quite rare and the artist Turner. Malham Cove falcons alike, Malham Cove is one swirling mists, bogs and mires of its – there are fewer than 900 breeding is a towering cliff formation in the of the few places in the national high ground – Stephen Spielberg’s Dartmoor ponies remaining – non- shape of an amphitheatre. Its weirdly park where this bird of prey attempts epic Warhorse was filmed here. local breeds can also be found in shaped limestone pavements, formed to breed. Keep your ears open for These hardy animals, with their full- this wild area of open country. But as after the last ice age, will stop you in the yaffle of green woodpeckers flowing mains, have roamed Dartmoor these ponies are all untamed, horsing your tracks. and watch out for the distinctive grey since pre-historic times. Hoof-prints around isn’t advisable. The Clints (blocks of limestone) wagtail’s colourful yellow plumage.

96 97 I0I Things to do Wildlife & Nature 77 Snowdrops at 78 Havergate Island Fountains Abbey Suffolk Yorkshire Near Aldeburgh www.rspb.org.uk Fountains, Ripon HG4 3DY www.nationaltrust.org.uk

The first snowdrops are always a near Ripon in Yorkshire, Fountains Suffolk’s only island is a gem. young, throwing up a riot of sound. welcome sight, signalling an end Abbey is the most complete Nestled within the Alde and Ore The hares are also friskier during to chilly winter days. Walk on a Cistercian abbey remains in England Estuary, this secluded nature reserve this time – their boxing antics are white carpet of them as you explore and houses the only surviving is only accessible by the RSPB a real treat to watch. During the 12th century ruins at Fountains Cistercian corn mill. Drink in the boat. No more than 12 visitors are autumn and winter the island is Abbey. Best viewed early in the beauty of the adjoining landscaped allowed to set foot here each day, a haven for ducks and wading morning, a thin layer of mist slowly Georgian water garden of Studley so peace and quiet is guaranteed… birds, while few sights are as fades to reveal swathes of delicate Royal where over 500 red, fallow at least, until the terns arrive. moving or memorable as that of little white flowers in front of this and Sika deer roam among the Spring and summer sees these the enigmatic barn owl silently World Heritage Site. ancient trees of its medieval deer black-headed birds return to the scouring the grassland for prey. Set in 800 acres of countryside park. island to breed and raise their

98 99 I0I Things to do Wildlife & Nature 79 Dungeness 80 Watch starlings circle Kent West Pier Near Lydd TN29 9PN Brighton www.dungeness-nnr.co.uk King’s Road, Brighton www.westpier.co.uk

At first glance, windswept Dungeness Hundreds and hundreds of Despite being ravaged by fire in since plummeting numbers have National Nature Reserve appears species of plant life grow here and 2003, Brighton’s West Pier still earmarked the starlings as a Species too remote and strange to constitute those into moths, bees, beetles, attracts thousands of visitors. Every of Conservation Concern. as a wildlife attraction. A mile and spiders and other creepy crawlies December, a black cloud drifts The best time to catch their a half of desolate shingle stretches will find them in abundance. A across the horizon from as far hypnotic display is at sunset, while out before the eye, punctuated only circular 2 mile nature trail with six away as Scandinavia towards the sat on the pebbled beach with some by ramshackle huts, a couple of hides winds through the reserve. pier’s charred skeleton. Swelling fish and chips in your lap. The sight lighthouses and a nuclear power What’s more, the shoreline grows in up to 40,000 in number, the of these speckled birds looping and station. In fact, Dungeness is home to volume each year as more shingle starlings come to perform their swirling across the rose-tinted sky a large RSPB site, as well as being a gets washed up. Bleak or beautiful? annual pre-roosting aerial show, is simply spellbinding. Just don’t let Special Protection Area. Decide for yourself. known as ‘murmuration’. Their your dinner get cold. arrival is particularly significant 100 101 health and fitness

Coasteering in Cornwall...... 81 Caving in the Yorkshire Dales... 90 Scale England’s highest peak... 82 Canoe along the Wye Valley 91 Sail like an Olympian...... 83 Wild swimming in Grassington.92 Walk to the White Horse Surfing in Newquay...... 93 at Uffington...... 84 Rock climb in the Go ice skating on the Fens...... 85 Peak District...... 94 Walk the South West Up at the O2...... 95 Coast Path...... 86 Trek from coast to coast...... 96 Pony trekking in Learn the art of The New Forest...... 87 mountain biking ...... 97 Mountain biking in Go Ape in Sherwood Pines..... 98 Dalby Forest...... 88 Walk the Pennine Way...... 99 Soak in Bath’s thermal waters... 89 Raft down an Olympic course.100

“There’s no excuse for not getting out and about in England. We have great walks with amazing views right on our doorstep and the best sporting facilities in the world thanks to the 2012 Olympics. But people forget that health and fitness also means relaxing! And for me an afternoon of total relaxation in a spa, or walking to a pub for lunch is bliss.”

Sonali Shah I0I Things to do Health & Fitness 81 Coasteering in Cornwall 82 Scale England’s highest peak Cornwall Lake District Numerous activity centres throughout Cornwall Lake District National Park www.visitcornwall.com www.lakedistrict.gov.uk

Judge’s pick I’ve chosen coasteering in Cornwall as my ultimate pick because it sounds like a super-charged version Experienced guides are dotted is the highest point in scene of sparkling waters, twisted of something many of us will have along the coastline ready to take England and successfully scaling it crags and pristine highlands, you’ll tried as kids on a seaside holiday. you on an adventure where the land guarantees sublime rewards. The fell understand why. It’s enough to turn The variety of activity – the sport greets the sea. Scaling cliffs and rises some 978m above sea level even the most taciturn hiker into involves swimming, jumping, diving, climbing and – would plunging into crystalline waters is an and from the peak on a clear day a poet. The feeling will stay with make it a totally adrenaline-packed exhilarating and fun way to get to you can see all the way across the you long after you’ve made the experience. It’s a unique way of know the Cornish coast. sea to the Isle of Man. descent, and are kicking-back in exploring one of England’s most The Lake District has inspired a country pub in one of the area’s stunning coastlines! writers and artists for centuries and countless picturesque villages and Sonali Shah when you’re standing at its highest hamlets. point, towering above a beautiful

104 105 I0I Things to do Health & Fitness 83 Sail like an Olympian 84 Walk to the White Horse Dorset at Uffington WPNSA, Osprey Quay, Portland DT5 1SA Oxfordshire www.wpnsa.org.uk On The Ridgeway National Trail between and Wantage www.nationaltrust.org.uk

The world-class sailing waters of beginner or pushing to race Hike across rolling chalk downs Until recently it was thought to be Weymouth were made for cruising competitively, you’ll find expert tuition and back in time to an age of myth from Anglo-Saxon times yet further or racing. Brit Ben Ainslie stormed and ideal practice conditions. If you and legend. The area all around scientific investigation has revealed into gold medal position in the already confident on the water, just Uffington is dotted with an Iron the enormous horse, carved into the Men’s Finn Olympic event here in hire one of the academy’s world-class Age hillfort, ancient burial mounds, chalky downland, to be much older 2012. You can replicate his success dinghies to skim across the water in Roman roads and apparently the – almost 3,000 years in fact, dating (in your own head at least) at the and take in that view – Weymouth very flattened hilltop where St it to the Bronze Age. Time your trip Weymouth & Portland National is at the heart of the Jurassic Coast, George slew the dragon. right and you can work up a sweat Sailing Academy (WPNSA), which with Lulworth Cove and Chesil Beach The most famous landmark, though, as you help scour the horse clean. offers Olympic-standard facilities. nearby – or join a coastal cruise from is the , which Whether you’re an absolute Weymouth Harbour. leaps across the head of a valley.

106 107 I0I Things to do Health & Fitness 85 Go ice skating on the Fens 86 Walk the South West Cambridgeshire Coast Path and the Fens www.visitcambridge.org Between Minehead in Somerset and Poole in Dorset www.southwestcoastpath.com

The Fens are the birthplace of Today, when the conditions You probably won’t get round all secret smugglers coves, ancient forts British speed skating. In a tradition are right, the tradition of racing 630 miles of staggeringly beautiful and charming quayside villages, stretching back centuries, when the and skating is alive and well. The coastline in one go, but you will to incredible geological formations ground froze over and the land was fenland between Cambridge and be back. Stretching from Somerset, including Durdle Door and dramatic too hard to work, local landowners Kings Lynn is already a bewitchingly through Devon, around the tip of cliff-tops, there’s almost too much to would organise races for their atmospheric place, but covered in England in Cornwall and back to take in. What’s more, the route is unemployed labourers. The prize, a layer of ice and frost, it takes on Dorset, we reckon this national trail bordered by shimmering turquoise often half a bullock or pig, was a truly magical quality. Strap on is one of the greatest of its kind. waters. It’s a totally mesmeric enough to keep the labourer’s family your skates, wrap up warm and From the wilds of National experience. Pick your first section in food for the cold winter months so experience these natural ice rinks in Park through picture-perfect villages, with the reassurance that there will races were fiercely contested. the bracing air for yourself. gorse-covered heath, medieval ports, be plenty left to explore.

108 109 I0I Things to do Health & Fitness 87 Pony trekking in 88 Mountain biking in The New Forest Dalby Forest The New Forest North York Moors National Park Numerous riding stables and schools throughout The New Forest Dalby Forest Visitor Centre, Low Dalby, Pickering YO18 7LT www.thenewforest.co.uk www.forestry.gov.uk

At around 900 years old, the name Along the way you’re likely to Dalby Forest is internationally You’ll find miles of routes criss- is a little misleading. Originally see some of the 3,000 New Forest recognised as one of the best crossing the forest, featuring drops, created as a private hunting ground ponies. They’ve lived in the area for places in the world to go mountain berms and rock gardens. If you don’t for William the Conqueror in 1079, around 2,000 years and although biking. It hosted the Mountain Bike have a clue what those are, start at the ancient landscape of The New not wild, they are as close to it as World Cup in 2010 and 2011 the Barn and choose a CTC course. Forest has changed little over the you can get and roam the area and Dalby Bike Barn is the Centre After a day spent careering downhill, intervening centuries. A network freely. Saddle up one of their tamer of Excellence for the Cyclists’ get your breath back and have a bite of pathways and trails takes you cousins and take to the bridleways Touring Club (CTC). These are some to eat while taking in the views from through almost 355 square miles of on a pony trek for an entirely serious accolades in a sport that’s the Tree Tops Restaurant in the Dalby enchanting woodland and quaint appropriate way to explore this rocketing in popularity. Forest Visitor Centre. forest villages. incredible setting.

110 111 I0I Things to do Health & Fitness 89 Soak in Bath’s 90 Caving in the thermal waters Yorkshire Dales Bath Yorkshire Dales National Park Thermae Bath Spa, The Hetling Pump Room, Hot Bath Street BA1 1SJ Numerous caving and activity centres throughout the Yorkshire Dales www.thermaebathspa.com www.yorkshiredales.org.uk

If you took a trip back in time 2,000 looking out over the spires, rooftops Spread over 683 square miles an elaborate network of over 43 years you’d probably still want to and chimney stacks of this honey- the Yorkshire Dales are a beautiful miles of known passageways and visit Bath. The Celts and Romans hued, Roman-meets-Regency city landscape of gently tumbling Gaping Gill cavern large enough to came here to take a dip in Britain’s and indulge in the health and beauty countryside and wide valleys. And swallow St Paul’s cathedral. only naturally heated thermal spa. treatments. the limestone cliffs and gorges that Under expert guidance, people Now a Unesco World Heritage As health and fitness go, feeling characterise the picturesque scenery can experience the heart-pounding site, this elegant town houses state- refreshed and invigorated is just extend below it… way, way below. excitement of caving at every level. of-the-art spa facilities in Thermae as important as feeling the burn so The cave system of the Dales is Vertical caving, horizontal caving Bath Spa. As well as soaking in the just lie back and relax. It’s all good believed to be one of Britain’s and potholing are all on offer as mineral-rich thermal springs, you can for you. longest and most complex, with the you suit-up and head down into a luxuriate in the spa’s rooftop pool Ease Gill system alone making up bewitching subterranean world.

112 113 I0I Things to do Health & Fitness 91 Canoe along the Wye Valley 92 Wild swimming Herefordshire in Grassington Numerous canoe and kayak hire centres in the Wye Valley AONB Yorkshire Dales National Park www.wyevalleyaonb.org.uk Grassington, Skipton www.yorkshire.com

The River Wye leisurely sweeps and encounter only tranquil waters. Grassington is an idyllic little Dales We recommend going in the twirls its way through the Wye Valley An open-top Canadian canoe market town with a cobbled square, comfortable warmth of summer but Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. is the perfect way to experience quirky shops and cosy pubs. It’s also maybe we’re just soft. Should your Emerald green fields, deep limestone the river in the hot summer months. the ideal base for a spot of wild inner thermostat fail you, there are gorges and opaque hillside forests Moor at Symonds Yat for some food swimming. The surrounding area plenty of great countryside walks line its banks taking you through and drink at The Saracen’s Head is bejewelled with plunge pools, year round – head to Linton Falls, chic Regency market towns and past Inn before walking to Symonds cascading waterfalls and the pristine the largest falls on the Wharfe – ancient castle ruins and riverbank Yat Rock for a spectacular view of waters of the River Wharfe. You can and there’s a grassy common near pubs. Some stretches are best the valley and a glimpse of some ride a rubber ring down the chutes, Grassington Wier that’s just perfect left to experienced canoeists, but peregrine falcons nesting in the just cool off with a paddle or brave for picnics. chose your route carefully and you’ll surrounding cliffs. the plunge pool at Loup Scar.

114 115 I0I Things to do Health & Fitness 93 Surfing in Newquay 94 Rock climb in the Cornwall Peak District Fistral Beach, Headland Road, Newquay TR7 1HY Peak District National Park www.visitnewquay.org Numerous centres throughout the Peak District

The UK’s surf capital, Newquay, of surfer, from veteran to beginner. With 10,000 recorded climbs the this inimitable landscape of stark on Cornwall’s Atlantic coast, The rush of adrenaline and Peak District is widely recognised as limestone cliff faces, tors and crags boasts some of the best surfing thrill of catching your first wave having some of the best climbing in erupting from sheep-cropped fields in Europe. Good-sized swells is unforgettable, and you’ll soon the country. The beautiful formations and moors are all yours, if you can producing strong, hollow waves pick up on the surfer lingo. When at , stark carapaces of make it to the top. break on Fistral Beach. If you’ve you’re confident on the board, , dramatic gritstone If you don’t know your caribiners no idea what a hollow wave looks or at least have got your head crags of Windgather Rocks and the from your crimps, get in touch like, you should probably take a around the slang, head out for sinuous moor-top crest of Stanage with one of the area’s outdoor lesson. The area is awash with surf some post-surfing fun as the sun Edge are places of pilgrimage pursuits experts who will have shops, board manufacturers and sets on this lively centre of surf for climbers from across the your fingertips aching and your surf schools catering for every level culture. world. Spectacular views across adrenaline soaring in no time.

116 117 I0I Things to do Health & Fitness 95 Up at The O2 96 Trek from coast to coast Greenwich Northern England The O2, Peninsula Square, London SE10 0DX Between St Bees in Cumbria and Robin Hood’s Bay in Yorkshire www.theo2.co.uk www.wainwright.org.uk

Have a Bond-esque experience on You may remember 007 heading Few things are more satisfying than Irish Sea on the Cumbrian coast, the huge dome that dominates the up here (and tumbling down it) in crossing a country on foot. But when the trail twists and turns for 182 Greenwich peninsular. The O2 is 52 The World Is Not Enough. You won’t that cross-country trail passes through miles through pristine countryside metres high with a diameter of 365 be doing any tumbling yourself, three national parks, the experience and quaint rural villages, coming to metres. Inside, it’s a vast entertainment but when you get your breath back is intensified three-fold. Devised by a very satisfactory end overlooking venue with an enormous indoor at the apex you will experience legendary guidebook writer, Alfred the waves of the North Sea at Robin arena, several restaurants and bars, 360-degree views of London, from Wainwright, the long-distance Coast- Hood’s Bay. There are plenty of a cinema and nightclub. But we’re the Thames Barrier to the Shard and to-Coast trek unfurls across the Lake places to stop, up or spend not interested in that part. Instead, beyond. Then there’s the descent to District, Yorkshire Dales and North the night in a B&B before getting don the safety gear and literally walk contend with… York Moors. cracking the next day, although few across the top. Beginning on the shores of the do this walk in one go.

118 119 I0I Things to do Health & Fitness 97 Learn the art of 98 Go Ape in Sherwood Pines mountain biking Nottingham Lake District Go Ape Sherwood Pines, Edwinstowe NG21 9JH www.goape.co.uk CycleActive, Brougham Hall, Brougham, Penrith CA10 2DE www.cycleactive.co.uk

Cumbria’s rolling hills, wooded trails up with a cycling holiday fit for Deep in the heart of Robin Hood highlight is the 140 metre-long tree- and vertiginous peaks make this your needs. Each of their holidays country, Nottingham’s Go Ape to-tree zipline, where screaming as rugged region a dream for keen is graded according to skill level so centre offers an adrenalin-pumping loud as you can on the way down (and wannabe) mountain bikers. The you’re sure to find the right one for way to explore the vast 3,300-acre isn’t essential… but definitely fun! really good news is that you don’t you. Adrenalin junkies can choose to Sherwood Pines Forest Park. Watch As you’re safely strapped into need to be a mountain biking maven take on the daring all-mountain Three the woodland floor spin almost 10 a harness at all time, Go Ape is to get involved. Summits, while newbies can learn to metres below you as you fly down perfect for days out with family and At CycleActive in Penrith, Chris handle a bike like a pro on a one- zip wires, leap off Tarzan swings, friends, though those with less of a Ford and his team of expert guides or multi-day course at the Staveley crash into cargo nets and tackle head for heights can opt to take the are more than happy to hook you trail centre. some of the tricky obstacles along hour-long Segway Tour through the this heady tree top adventure. A forest instead.

120 121 I0I Things to do Health & Fitness 99 Walk the PEnnine Way 100 Raft down an Olympic course Northern England Starts at The Nags Head pub, Edale, Derbyshire Lee Valley White Water Centre, Station Road, Waltham Cross EN9 1AB www.nationaltrail.co.uk www.visitleevalley.org.uk

Experience the ultimate walking September, but hardy folks can The London 2012 Canoe Slalom time it gets hairier and hairier. This challenge with a 268-mile trek along attempt it year round. events host venue sets the bar high all takes places under the watchful the rugged backbone of England. The record for completion is held for adrenalin-pumping action. Relive eye of an expert guide. That’s not The Pennine Way National Trail by Mike Hartley, who ran the route the glory of Team GB’s gold and to say you won’t be tipped into the takes hardy walkers on an upwards without any sleep in 2 days, 17 silver medallists along the Olympic water – in fact, some guides delight journey through the Pennine hours, 20 minutes and 15 seconds. course, whose rapids, drops, boils in guaranteeing it – but you will Mountains, starting in the Peak It’ll take most people 16-19 days and eddies are perfect for those certainly get very wet indeed, and District, then moving through the to complete and, because of high craving their own white-water not just because part of the safety Yorkshire Dales and over Hadrian’s altitudes and roughs conditions, is experience. drill includes jumping in and floating Wall to the Cheviots. The best time not for the faint-hearted. Trek this and Each group gets to ride the feet first downriver. to set out is between mid-May and you’ll be a legend. rapids at least four times, and each

122 123 Because it’s Awesome!

Cheese rolling at Cooper’s Hill...... 126

As a nation, the English have a reputation for being a little… eccentric. In a land as riddled with ancient traditions, myths and legends as this one, there’s understandably no shortage of weird and wonderful spectacles, experiences and sights. Whether that’s people hurling themselves down a dangerously steep hill after some cheese, a giant, ahem, ‘appendage’ carved into a hillside, or annual events in celebration of the most unlikely heroes (we’re thinking garden gnomes), you’re guaranteed an awesome experience to remember in England.

Category Judges: Wallace & Gromit I0I Things to do 101 Cheese Rolling at Cooper’s Hil GLOUCESTERSHIRE Cooper’s Hill, Brockworth, Gloucestershire GL3 www.cheese-rolling.co.uk

Judge’s pick Gromit and I are delighted to announce the winner of the Because Every year on the last Monday of Each race lasts about 30 It’s Awesome category: none other May, a group of what can only seconds, if that, during which than Cheese Rolling, of course. be described as crazy people hurl hundreds of competitors roll, bounce (Reminds me of the old joke, lad: “How do you make a cheese roll? themselves down a very steep hill and slide down the 200-metre, Push it down a hill!”) This is one of in pursuit of a large 7-8lb Double 1:2 gradient slope. We’re not the nation’s fastest growing sports cheese. The tradition suggesting you take part – it really and bound to be granted Olympic is centuries old and is apparently is a mad thing to do, as proven by status soon, along with its spin-off rooted in a pagan ritual celebrating the broken bones – but join the huge games: Cheddar-Chucking and Wensleydale-Wanging. Awesome the return of spring. There are three and enthusiastic crowds to watch indeed, eh Gromit? men’s races, and one ladies’, with this awesome, unique and utterly

Wallace and Gromit the first cheese rolled at midday. English event. 127 126 picture credits

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