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Travels in East, North, Central and Western China

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Travels in East, North, Central and Western China THE FACE OF BYE. G. SEMP, F.S..S.G.S, DSlW K3^ ajarttell Uniocraitg ffitbrarg atljani. New farfe CHARLES WILLIAM WASON COLLECTION CHINA AND THE CHINESE THE GIFT OF CHARLES WILLIAM WASON CLASS OF 1878 1918 __ Cornell University Library DS 710.K32 The face of China :travels in east nort L 3 1924 023 115 516 Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924023115516 THE FACE OF CHINA V. THE AUTHOR AS CHINESE "FEMALE TRAVELLING SCHOLAR' THECHINAFACE OF TRAVELS IN EAST, NORTH, CENTRAL AND WESTERN CHINA f WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE NEW SCHOOLS,UNI- VERSITIES, MISSIONS, AND THE OLD RELIGIOUS SACRED PLACES OF CON- FUCIANISM, BUDDHISM, AND TAOISM THEWHOLEWRITTENSflLLUSTRATED BY E. G. KEMP, F.R.S.G.S. NEW YORK DUFFIELD COMPANY 1909 G. All rights reserved THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO THE FRIEND TO WHOSE SUGGESTION AND ENCOURAGEMENT IT OWES ITS EXISTENCE PRINCIPAL MARCUS DODS, D.D. PREFACE EVERY intelligent person that I have met whose good fairy has led him to the Celestial Empire has fallen under the spell of that marvellous people and marvellous land. I am fired with the ambition to cast that spell even on those who have never been there, by showing them as accurately and vividly as I can, with pen and brush, what the face of China a6lually is. People may describe with success the soul of a people, provided it is sufficiently near the surface, but the foreigner who has known and loved China for a lifetime would be the first to repudiate the possibility of doing this in the case of China. I would rather take Browning's view—" Nor soul helps body more than body soul"—and try to set down faithfully the things I have seen, that they may lead others to study China for themselves. It may be obje6ted that the pidlure is too much couleur de rose, because I have not dwelt on the dark side of things : but there is a use for eyelids as well as for eyes. This book is the result of a year spent in Shansi, 1893-94, and six months spent in travel through the provinces of Shantung, Chili, Hupeh, Szechwan, and visit mainly Yunnan during 1 907-8. The former was vij Preface spent at a medical mission at Taiyiianfu, which was then remote from Western influences; now every- thing has changed, and I travelled from north-east to south-west of the Empire and found no village untouched by the great awakening. On the first occasion I was always conscious of a certain hostility in the attitude of the people towards foreigners ; this time it was quite the reverse. Considering the be- haviour of many travellers towards the Chinese, this seems to me really astonishing ; but they are very sensitive in their appreciation of mental attitude, and they responded unhesitatingly to the call we made on their chivalry by placing ourselves unreservedly in their hands. We were repeatedly warned not to do this, but our confidence was justified by the event. In no European country could we have been more courteously treated, and in very few have I travelled so happily and so free from care. The journey was one long series of pleasant sur- prises, and my friend expressed the feelings of both of us when, on crossing the frontier into Burma, she exclaimed : "If only we could turn round and go all the way back again ! " If any one is induced by reading this book to make personal acquaintance with China, it will not have been written in vain. vuj NOTE There is so little in this volume which is drawn from other sources than personal observation, and information obtained from our Chinese and missionary friends on the spot, that I have thought well not to burden the reader with foot-notes. The various details as to the religions of China are mainly drawn from an interesting little volume by Giles, " Religions of Ancient China," Smith's " Uplift of China," and Hackmann's "Buddhism as a Religion"; while the account of the railways is from Kent's " Railway Enterprise in China." The spelling of Chinese names is ac- cording to the most recent standard map, giving the orthography of the Chinese Imperial Post Office. IX 3 CONTENTS Preface VIJ Note ix I. Shanghai I II. Shantung, the German Sphere of Influence 1 III. A Day in the Country (Shan- tung) 20 IV. Shantung Silk 27 V. Tsinan 31 VI. The Sacred Shrine of Tai Shan 45 VII. The Home of Confucius : Kiifow 5 3 VIII. The Yellow River and Grand Canal 66 IX. Journey into Shansi in 1893 73 X. Taiyiianfu 81 XI. Peking 92 The Face of China ILLUSTRATIONS Coloured Plates Portrait of Author as Chinese " Female Travel- ling Scholar" (p. 236) The Face of China Mr. Ku 1 06 The Brakeman on the Pehan Railway 108 Ancestral Tablet 120 Blue Dawn 122 Yeh Tan Rapid 124 Village and Junk 132 Look-out on the Yangtze The 1 34 Camel-back Bridge 144 Szechwan Highway 150 Sunlight and Mist in the Mountains 158 Buddhist Monastery 166 Military Yamen 171 House on Min River 17^ Otter Fishing on Min River 181 Mount Omi Bridge 187 Summit of Mount Omi 1^2 Copper Idol, Sui Fu 196 Cormorants on the Cormorant River 198 Laowatan River 201 Wha Miao 206 Bridegroom—Funeral Pagoda 213 Temple of the God of Literature 221 Fellow-Travellers 226 Tomb of a Philosopher among Rice-fields 229 Tali Fu 235 Shan Woman 249 xiv j 61 Illustrations Sepia Drawings Cemetery of Confucius 6 Old Examination Buildings 88 Great Wall 1 1 o Chinese Graves 1 1 River-side Shrine \ The Chef on the Yangtze] City Gate : Chengtu i6o Police Boatman : Min Riverl i8i Signboard of Inn J Buddhist Monk beating Fish Gong while-j Chanting I 189 Tiger Shrine J Our Military Escort ] " Orphan Spirit " Shrine/ -^ Tower of Refuge | ^°^ "Omi to fu" Shrine Miao Woman 206 Upland Village! ^^g Uh Chai j Yunnan Hat 1 211 Lolo Woman] Village Screen Wall 233 Carrying-Chair Suspension-Bridge 243 Bridge made of Creepers 244 XV THE FACE OF CHINA CHAPTER I Shanghai first voyage to China was unspeakably MYdistasteful, and as we neared Hong Kong we were suddenly caught up in the tail of a typhoon and carried for forty-eight hours wherever it pleased to take us. Most of that time we were get a without food, and could not even cup of tea ; while we found it hard work to cling to a seat. When we emerged from the storm, and steamed into the wonderful bay of Hong Kong, it seemed like Paradise it looked to my eyes the most beautiful ; harbour I had ever seen : and I have seen nearly all the most celebrated ones, without feeling tempted to change my opinion. The first introduction to a new country, if it happens to be when the faculties are specially quickened, makes an indelible impression, and from this time China has been to me a land of infinite charm and beauty. The more I have seen of it, the more I have realised its fascination ; even its ugliness is interesting. The Face of China ch. i Hong Kong lies along the shore, with a steep clifF rising abruptly behind it, called the Peak, and the typhoon had laid parts of it in ruins, and unroofed many of the houses, so that it was by no means looking its best. British pride swelled within me as I thought of the transformation that had taken place in half a century. When it was ceded to the British it was a barren island, with a population of 5000 inhabitants ; now it is the second largest port in the Empire, with a population of 238,724. There is an immense boat population ; whole families have lived from generation to generation in their boats along the shore. In Hong Kong, East and West live happily together, learning to appreciate one another. Chinese merchants are members of its council and take an adtive part in its government. It has become not only the greatest shipping but also the greatest banking centre of the East, and it is a significant fadt that it contributes annually j^20,ooo to the British Treasury as its military contribution. From Hong Kong to Shanghai is but a step, and at first sight the latter seems almost as European as the former. The landing, after coming up one of the mouths of the Yangtze River, is in the centre of a promenade, with broad grass borders between it and the road, along which lie the finest commercial build- ings of the city for the distance of more than a mile. This is the Bund, the most imposing part of the concession. It may be well to mention what a " concession " is, as this is a term continually used ch. i Shanghai with regard to the treaty ports, such as Tientsin, Hankow, and Shanghai. It is a right granted to Europeans to inhabit a certain defined area, to possess property in it (no private individual except a China- man has the right to buy land for building on, in China, although it is occasionally done in the interior), to live under European law, to have their own police and manage their own affairs. The Shanghai con- cession was mapped out in 1 843 by Sir George (then Captain) Balfour, and is on a broad cosmopolitan basis : later on the French obtained one adjoining it, and then the Americans.
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