Budget WorldClass Drives - Loop

a m a z i n g 1998 Tourism Authority of (TAT) SELF DRIVE VACATIONS THAILAND 1999 : CHIANG MAI - SUKHOTHAI AND BURMESE BORDERLANDS

To Mae Hong Son To Fang To Chiang Rai To Wang Nua To Chiang Rai 1001 1096 1 107 KHUN YUAM 118 1317 1 SAN KAMPHAENG 1269 19 CHIANG MAI1006 MAE ON 1317 CHAE HOM HANG DONG SARAPHI 108 Doi Inthanon 106 SAN PA TONG 11 LAMPHUN 1009 108 116 MAE CHAEM 103 1156 PA SANG 1035 1031 1033 18 MAE THA Thung Kwian MAE LA NOI 11 Market 1088 CHOM TONG 1010 1 108 Thai Elephant HANG CHAT BAN HONG 1093 Conservation 4 2 1034 Centre 3 LAMPANG 11 To 106 1184 Nan 15 16 HOD Wat Phrathat 1037 LONG 17 MAE SARIANG 108 Lampang Luang KO KHA 14 MAE 11 PHRAE km.219 THA Ban Ton Phung 1103 THUNG 1 5 SUNGMEN HUA SOEM 1099 DOI TAO NGAM 1023 Ban 1194 SOP MOEI CHANG Wiang Kosai DEN CHAI Mae Sam Laep 105 1274 National Park WANG CHIN km.190 Mae Ngao 1125 National Park 1124 LI SOP PRAP OMKOI 1177 101 THOEN LAP LAE Ban Tha 102 Song Yang Ban Mae Ramoeng MAE SI SATCHANALAI PHRIK 1294 Mae Ngao National Park 1305 6 Mae Salit Historical 101 km.114 11 1048 THUNG Park SAWAN 105 SALIAM 1113 7 KHALOK To THA SONG SAM NGAO 1113 Phitsa- YANG Bhumipol Dam Airport nuloke M Y A N M A R 1056 SI SAMRONG 1113 1195 Sukhothai 101 ( B U R M A ) 1175 9 Ban Tak Historical 1175 Ban 12 Phrathat Ton Kaew 1 Park BAN Kao SUKHOTHAI MAE RAMAT 12 DAN LAN 8 10 105 Taksin 12 HOI Ban Mae Ban National Park Ban Huai KHIRIMAT Lamao 105 TAK 1140 Lahu Kalok 11 105 Phrathat Hin Kiu 13 104 1132 101 12 Hilltribe Lan Sang Miyawadi Development National Park Moei PHRAN KRATAI Bridge 1090 Centre 1

0 10 20 kms. Historical Park 115 1090 To Phichit 1206 To KAMPHAENG PHET POP PHRA &

107 CHIANG MAI CITY 11

118 101

HUAI KAEW RD.

UMPHANG SUTHEP RD. 102 Tilosu 1006 P Falls I N Train Station

G

R

I

V E

1 R Airport 11

19 OM M U AN G R D . 108 R 1

Car and Truck Rental 106

2 R Budget WorldClass Drives

CHIANG MAI - SUKHOTHAI LOOP

Budget Rent a Car has more And while we hope you than 3,200 rental locations won't need it, 24 hour emer- worldwide, including seven gency road assistance is avail- convenient locations through- able from Budget. In case of Budget: Thailand out Thailand. emergency information is We're known for our printed on the rental agree- superior customer service, ment for your convenience. great rates and wide variety Please note that the of vehicles to choose from, Budget fleet for Thailand including the adventurous consists of right hand drive Jeep Cherokee, the sporty vehicles. Suzuki Vitara and the afford- The Budget Guarantee able Honda City. is our pledge to you that Honda City/Toyota Soluna Honda Civic or similar Budget offers a great Budget is dedicated to pro- • 1.3 litre, Automatic sedan • 1.6 litre, Automatic sedan one way program between viding a positive, hassle free • Seats 4, holds 1 large, • Seats 4, holds 2 large all locations within Thailand. rental experience. Every 2 small suitcases. suitcases. Child seats are also available rental. Every time. Every lo- from all locations. cation. Budget has comprehen- On behalf of Budget sive fleet insurance coverage Rent a Car worldwide, we for all vehicles, and can offer welcome you and yours to Personal Accident Insurance the Kingdom of Thailand. for additional protection and Thank you for including us peace of mind. Our helpful in your travel plans. counter staff will be able to assist with this additional Suzuki Vitara 4WD Honda Accord or similar protection if required. Enjoy your Thailand visit! • 1.6 litre, Automatic 4WD • 2.0 litre, Automatic sedan • Seats 4, holds 1 large, • Seats 5, holds 2-3 large 2 small suitcases. suitcases. SYMBOL LIST

Main Road Kilometre Stone 100 Minor Road Temple

Unsealed Road Park

Suggested Routes Water Fall

River Hot Springs.

Province Hotel/Resort/Guest House Toyota Camry or similar Jeep Cherokee 4WD District Hospital • 2.2 litre, Automatic sedan • 2.5 litre, Manual 4WD 0 Key Point. Gas Station • Seats 5, holds 3 large • Seats 5, holds 4 large suitcases. suitcases. 12 Distance Between Key Points (kms.) Restaurant *** All vehicles have air conditioning and power steering.

3 R Welcome to your exclusive Budget World Class Drive.

CHIANG MAI – SUKHOTHAI LOOP

The finest old wooden temples, World Heritage historical parks, untamed jungle, rugged mountainous scenery and hill-tribes in the remote reaches of north- await you on this tour.

his Worldclass Drive takes you fore, are flexible. The listings here only MAPS, KEY POINTS T south to the city of Lampang include the best places to stay along before going on to the historical birth- the routes. The main towns usually AND INFORMATION place of the Thai Kingdom at have local hotels (see maps) for Sukhothai. From there the full tour goes commercial travellers, some of which The maps in this booklet have been west to the border town of Mae Sot, a have more expensive rooms or suites. specially researched and prepared for colourful ethnic crossroads. The rooms in many of these hotels are this tour. Key Points along the route A special tour goes south to the often satisfactory, though basic. Full indicate important road junctions. A boundary of Thailand’s last remaining price indications for accommodation useful addition as a general map of extensive reserve of primary forest. are listed as follows: Northern Thailand, however, is the There the remote district town of Um- (1500-3000 Baht) “Thailand North” map published by phang is the base for eco-adventure (500-1500 Baht) Berndtson & Berndtson. Visitors will into the jungle for two days or more. (500 Baht or less) also find invaluable a good guide book From Mae Sot the return route providing cultural background and Major credit cards are accepted by follows the Thai- border more comprehensive information. the up-market hotels and restaurants, north-west along the Moei River through country populated by the but otherwise you will need cash for the small, remote Karen. Striking karst scenery is fol- places along the route. lowed by a pass through mountainous TOUR PROGRAM country to the Valley and Mae Sariang. Turning north-east, the WHEN TO GO route crosses a major watershed DAY 1 before entering the valley of the River The peak season runs Chiang Mai - Lampang Ping and passing the highest moun- from mid-November till after 99 kms. tain in Thailand en route back to the Chinese New Year (at the Chiang Mai. end of the first lunar month DAY 2 The full tour programme takes five of the calendar year) and Lampang - Sukhothai days, but this can be shortened by rises again for the Songkran 205 kms. returning to Chiang Mai directly from festival (Thai New Year) in Sukhothai on alternative routes. This mid-April. Advance booking DAY 3 tour also offers scenic and cultural is necessary for peak periods. alternatives to the northern section of Warm clothing is needed Sukhothai - Mae Sot the busy main highway between for cold temperatures in 166 kms. Chiang Mai and Bangkok. upland areas, especially DAY 4 between November and March. The rainy season Mae Sot - Mae Sariang ACCOMMODATION (July-September) offers tur- 232 kms. bulent skies and clearer The raw distance for each day’s visibility over the rugged DAY 5 drive is fairly short, allowing time for landscape, not to forget low Mae Sariang - Chiang Mai stops along the way as well as for side- season discounts of 50% or 190 kms. trips. Destinations for each night, there- more on accommodation.

4 R DAY 1 : CHIANG MAI - LAMPANG 99 kms.

The Thai Elephant Conservation Centre and Wat Phrathat Lampang Luang, the finest example of a Northern Thai temple, are highlights in a day’s drive that goes south to Lampang, a historical city on the banks of the Wang River.

1 KEY POINT ONE outlined in this guide, you will still have to start early in order to visit Lamphun H11 to Lampang and Om Muang (alternative route) as well as catch the Rd. 11:00 show at the Thai Elephant Con- servation Centre (ST.1). Many temples 2 KEY POINT TWO can be visited on this tour, however, H 11 (KM.20) & H1034 to Ko Kha and you may find it better to leave a visit to Lamphun for your return. Turn left off Highway 1 to enter Lampang 3 KEY POINT THREE City (see city map). H1 to Chiang Rai & H11 to Chiang Lampang was formerly known as Mai Khelang and has been in existence since before the 14th century. The 11 is a fast divided highway and ruling house of this city fought for H the main trunk route to the south. independence from the Burmese in the If you are on the slower itinerary 18th century and established an

CHIANG MAI To Chiang Rai CHIANG MAI to LAMPANG Wat Phrathat Lampang Luang 1 To Wang Nua 19 1006 SAN KAMPHAENG MAE ON autonomous northern vassal state 1317 CHAE HOM SARAPHI centred on Chiang Mai, which was R HANG DONG E finally incorporated into the Kingdom R V E I V R I of Siam in the late 19th century.

R G N

G 106 A

N

I The old wooden trading buildings R W P E

V 11 I along the river front have been well- LAM R A preserved in the Talat Kao area on the H PHUN 24 hr. T south banks. The commercial south

116 part of the town can be seen in a tour PA SANG Khun Tan by horse and cart starting from in front National Park 1035 of the provincial office. 1033 To Chiang Rai MAE THA On the northern banks remnants

11 Thung Kwian of the old city walls enclose spacious Market 1 compounds and temples. A large teak house built in 1885 called Ban Sao Nak Thai Elephant HANG CHAT Conservation LAM is open to the public (10:00-17:00), and 1093 Centre Burmese style buildings are found at 2 PANG 24 hr. 4 1034 both Wat Phra Kaew Ton Taew and 3 11 0 10 20 kms. 24 hr. Wat Pongsanuk Tai. Wat Chum Si and Wat Phrathat Wat Si Rong Muang south of the river 1184 Lampang Lampang Luang River Lodge 1037 are also Shan-Burmese in style. KO KHA For dining in the evening the river front offers several good restaurants MAE THA 1 11 and pubs; recommended is the Huan To Thung Hua Chang To Thoen & Tak To Den Chai & Phrae Chom Wang (17:00-22:30).

5 R DAY 1: SIDE TRIPS ★ To Chae Hom THE ELEPHANT CONSERVATION CEN- To Hang Chat 1035 LAMPANG TRE — ST 1 To Ngao & s Susarn at o Chiang Rai m Trilak (H11. KM.29. [1 km.]) This centre is an attempt & 1093 s ll a w to counter the threat to the Asian Elephant in ld Wat O Wat Phra Kaew Ton Tao Thailand and includes an elephant hospital. A Wat Pongsanuk Si Rong Tai modest entrance fee is charged for shows (10 & Ban Sao Nak Muang 1 11 a.m. everyday; 1.30 p.m. weekends only) and 6 3 2 7 4 Provincial Hall 4 rides are offered. Asawin Night Market To Wat 5 11 ★ Chiang Si WAT PHRATHAT LAMPANG LUANG VIA Mai 11 Chum To Den Chai KO KHA — ST 2 & Phrae (KM.20 [27 kms.]) Turn left (south) on H1034 E R I V 1 to Ko Kha and Wat Phrathat Lampang Luang (12 R HOTEL & RESTAURANT G N 1.Ban Nam Chim Restaurant

A

kms.) Lovely old buildings are found within the W To Mae Tha 2.East Side Pub 3 3.Huan Chom Wang Restaurant fortified compound of what is considered the 4.Kim Hotel finest wooden temple in the region. A pamphlet 5.Lampang Wiengthong Hotel 0 1 2 kms. 6.Riverside Pub & Restaurant available from the Phra Kaew Museum (08:00- 7.Thip Chang Hotel 17:00) in the temple compound to the south of To Ko Kha (ST.2) the walls gives details and recounts the legend of the origin of the temple. Return by going on to Ko Kha (4 kms.) and then turning left (east) across the river and continuing straight to Lampang.

Relaxing riverside resort. ACCOMMODATION Pin Hotel. 8 Suandok Rd, Lampang 52100 Tel: (054) 221509, 322283-4. Lampang Wiengthong Hotel. 138/ Small modern hotel with central loca- 109 Phaholyothin Rd. T Suan Dok, tion. Lampang 52100 Tel: (054) 225801-2, Tipchang Hotel. 54/22 Takroa Noi Fax: (66 54) 225803. A modern Rd, Sobtui, Lampang 52000. Tel: (054) upmarket hotel. 226 501-6. Fax: (66 54) 225362. Lampang River Lodge. H1 KM.591 Thai style mid-range hotel near night opposite Susco Gas Station. Tel: (054) entertainment area. 226922. Bangkok Res. Fax: (66 2) 2560248.

Thai Elephant Conservation Centre ALTERNATIVE ROUTE VIA LAMPHUN Wat Phrathat Haripunchai and Wat Chamadevi, Lamphun. (32 kms.) You may begin the day by To LAMPHUN Chiang taking the pleasant, but slow, tree-lined highway Train Station Mai Sriphan Noodles K To Lampang (H)106 through Saraphi to Lamphun (26 kms.). The U (09:00-15:00) A N 106 G city is said to have had its origin as a Mon settlement R Ku Chang I Wat Phra Yeun V in the 10th century. Wat Phrathat Haripunchai and E Wooden House R 114 Wat Chamadevi temples are amongst the major

temples of interest in the north. CHAROENRAT RD. Dao Khanong Haripunchai IN National Museum THA YONG Wat Phrathat Haripunchai YOT RD . Bus Station Thai Vegetarian WANG Khum Ton Kaew SHINE RD Sports Stadium Wat Mahawan Queen Chamadevi Monument 1015 & To Rung Market 106 0 500 m.

Wat Phrathat Haripunchai To Sanpatong Wat Chamadevi To Pasang

6 R DAY 2 : LAMPANG - SUKHOTHAI 205 kms.

The route passes into the Valley and follows it to the northern reaches of the central plains. There the ancient cities of Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai flour- ished prior to the rise of the great Siamese Kingdom of Ayutthaya.

4 KEY POINT FOUR town is also known as Hat LAMPANG to SUKHOTHAI H1 to Chiang Rai & H11 to Den Sieo, which is famous for the 1035 1 To Chiang Rai Chai weave of the people of Lao HANG CHAT Phuan descent. Looms can LAM 1093 5 KEY POINT FIVE be seen beneath houses in the PANG 2 4 1034 nearby villages, especially to 3 11 H11 to Den Chai & H1023 to Wang the north across the river. The Chin Wat Sathorn Gold Textile Museum 1037 Phrathat KO KHA (08:00-18:00) provides an Lampang 6 KEY POINT SIX interesting opportunity to Luang MAE appreciate and buy some of THA 11 H101 KM 29/28 and the road across the delicate work. Good R E V 5 the river in Sri Satchanalai. I

restaurants for lunch are R

G 1

available in town. N 1023

A 7 KEY POINT SEVEN W Study the map of the Si Wiang Kosai To Den Chai National Park & Phrae H1195 to Sukhothai and H1048 Satchanalai-Sawankhalok and WANG CHIN to Thoen Sukhothai areas to determine 24 hr. 1125 1124 your route and how far you SOP 8 KEY POINT EIGHT want to go for the day. The PRAP fastest route to the Sukhothai H101 Si Satchanalai/Kamphaeng 1177 Historical Park is via little used 101 Phet & H12 Sukhothai/Tak Si H1305 and H1113 (approx 52 Satchanalai kms.). The turn off south-west National Park 11 goes through secondary wood- Y onto H1305 is south of KM.2 O M lands and a pass to R H on the road that follows I V E the Wang Valley and the west bank of the R 102 down to Key Point Yom River, but it is SI SATCHANALAI 24 hr. 5, where you turn 6 Si unmarked (except 1294 1305 Satchanalai off onto H1023 for a wooden Historical Park for Wang Chin. sign to Si Satcha- 1048 The small dis- THUNG 1201 101 nalai National 1113 trict town has Park-the return SALIAM 7 one restaurant journey to the SAWAN on the river park waterfalls 1113 KHALOK bank as well is 100 kms.). Airport as some food H101 is the SI 1056 SAM stalls on the main route from RONG 1113 1195 single high which side trips 101 street. may be made to 9 BAN 24 hr. The route to DAN LAN Si Satchanalai Ban HOI 12 Si Satchanalai fol- Historical Park Sukhothai Kao SUKHO lows H1125 along (KM.18) and Sawan- Historical 8 12 Park THAI the Yom River and waranayok National To Tak then takes H1177, join- Museum (Sawankhalok), ing H101 after 28 kms. Wat Chang Lom but it is more pleasant to 0 10 20 kms. To Kamphaeng Phet

R 7 To Den Chai & To Kiln Sites & To Si Satchanalai SI SATCHANALAI Wang Chin Si Satchanalai 102 To Uttaradit to SAWANKHALOK Kaeng Rose Luang Wat SI SATCHANALAI Res. 102 Rapids Chang 101 footbridge Sathorn Lom 6 24 Museum Suwantharas Km 29 Wang Yom Wat Phra Si

r Sukhothai Information Resort e Rattanamahathat v To Si Satchanalai i Chaliang Ceramics Centre R National Park 6 Centre Kiln 42 m o 1305 101 Unchan SI SATCHANALAI Y 0 500 m. Kiln 61 Res. HISTORICAL PARKTo Sawankhalok/Sukhothai 1294 1201 Km 28 Si Satchanalai Historical Park take the less busy alternative 9 k ms. route on the west bank of the Yom River. This will enable you to visit the kiln sites (left side of 1201 1113 road after approx. 8 kms.), To 101 which are extensions of the Thung Saliam Sawanwaranayok National Museums (see below), Sukhothai Historical Park & Thoen National Museum and then drive on to the histori- 1048 SAWANKHALOK cal park and southwards. becoming part of the Kingdom of 7 Si Satchanalai National Park Sukhothai that King Ramkhamhaeng Airport occupies a peaceful site on the built up at the end of the 13th century. (Bangkok banks of the Yom River, and the Thai history books attribute to this Airways) 1195 1113 nearby Suwanthanas Resort is kingdom the foundation of the inde- 101 good for a meal if not to stay pendent (from the northern Tai, Khmer The Sukhothai the night. Several local gold and Mon) Siamese Tai kingdoms that Resort Hotel smiths are well-known for their evolved into present day Thailand. At 1056 hand-wrought jewellery. the height of its power the kingdom SI Si Satchanalai was a provin- directly controlled the western half of To Ban Kao & Sukhothai Historical Park SAM RONG cial centre of the Khmer empire 0 5 kms. To Sukhothai in the 12th century, before

To Airport & 1195 101 Sawankhalok 8 NEW SUKHOTHAI To Si Samrong & Sawankhalok To Tak Sukhothai R Historical Park RIVE O M & Pailyn Hotel Y Fuang Fah Res. 12 (10:00-22:00) Kiln 61 Northern 101 Palace (Wang Nua Hotel) To Kamphaeng Ratchathani Wat Information (09:00-16:00) Phet Hotel To Phitsanuloke Sri Night 12 Chum 1113 market area Wat Sa Sri 12 Ban Kao

12 Wat Trapang MONUMENTS AND MUSEUMS Park is on foot only after 17:00 Sukhothai Thong Luang Wat IN until the park is closed at 19:00. A Historical Park Mahathat The museums (open Wed-Sun: detailed map is available at the Sukhothai 09:00-1600), historical parks and information centre. For a map of National nearby temples in Sukhothai Pro- Sukhothai Historical Park, go to the 0LD SUKHOTHAI Museum vince charge admission fees. If you adjacent National Museum) (BAN KAO) plant to visit most of these, you can The National Museums (at 0 500 m. save by buying a ‘total ticket’, which Sawankhalok and Old Sukhothai) 1113 To Si Satchanalai & Thung Saliam

will give you access to all sites in the and the kiln site extensions contain 12 9 province within 30 days. Buddha images, pottery, old photos, Ban 12 To Sukhothai & 12 Kao Sawankhalok There are separate charges for models as well as in-depth informa- To Tak 12 Sukhothai vehicles to enter the Historical Parks tion about the sites. Cultural Centre-Thai Pailyn Hotel (Access to Si Satchanalai Historical Village House (Resort)

8 R have hotels, but Sukhothai has more Tel: (055) 613310-5 Fax: (66 55) 613317. To Si Satchanalai SAWANKHALOK Historical Park to offer at night. The best hotel close to the Histo- To Si Satchanalai Historical Park rical Park in Sukhothai.

101

R E ACCOMMODATION

V

I

R To M

O Si

Y Nakhon (listed in order of location on the recommended tour route). Suwanthanas (Wang Yom Resort).

Footbridge 78/2 Mu 6 Si Satchanalai. Tel: (055) 1201 611179, 612277 ext. 279 Fax: (66 55) Sawanwaranayok 623448. Mobile: 01-3565627. Lovely Sukhothai Dawn National Museum garden atmosphere and quiet bunga- lows on riverbanks. Adv. booking recommended. Suphalai Place Hotel. 39 Mu 4, DAY 2: Muang Inn Sawankhalok, Sukhothai 64110. (055) SIDE TRIP To 641627 Fax: (66 55) 641772. A Thung 101 small but reasonable hotel 2 kms. south ★ WIANG KOSAI NATIONAL Saliam 1048 7 of the centre of Sawankhalok and PARK. — ST 3 To Airport & Suphalai Thoen The Sukhothai Resort Hotel, 99 Mu 1195 Place To Sukhothai (H1023. KM.74. north turn 3 Sukhothai 7 Tambol Samruan, Sisamrong District, kms.) The park centres on the Sukhothai. Tel: (055) 681698-9, 681700. relatively small Mae Koeng Luang the upper Chao Phraya basin and Fax: (66 55) 681697. KM 19/20 Falls. A walkway leads up (approx. enjoyed vassal tribute from as far as left turn by large seated Buddha north 300m) to the seventh level of the Pegu in Burma, Luang Phabang in Laos of Samrong District. Luxurious resort cascades. and Nakhon Sri Thammarat in the on the banks of the Yom River. south. After Ramkhamhaeng’s death Northern Palace Hotel (Wang Nua). in 1298, Sukhothai rapidly declined, 43 Singhawat Rd, Sukhothai 64000. Tel: QUICK RETURN ROUTES TO making way for the growth of (055) 611193-4 Fax: (66 55) 612038. CHIANG MAI. Thai style hotel in the middle of Ayutthaya. Sukhothai - Chiang Mai via the new town of Sukhothai. The provincial town of Sawan- Thung Saliam, Thoen, Li and Pailyn Hotel. 10/2 Charodwithi- khalok is smaller than (new) Sukhothai Chom Thong. 326 Kms. thong Rd (H12), Sukhothai 64210. and seems to have more charm. Both Take H1113 from Sukhothai Historical Park approx. 29 kms ALTERNATIVE ROUTE from Key Point 9 and turn left SOUTH TO BANGKOK VIA (west) onto H1048 and head for KAMPHAENG PHET Thoen (82 kms) via Thung Saliam From Key Point 8 it is just over (20 kms). Though sign posts are in 80 kms. on H101 to a third historical Thai only, the road numbers are park at Kamphaeng Phet. The town clearly marked. owed its importance to its location From Thoen you may proceed on trading routes following the along H1 to Key Point 3 and the River Ping on the frontier of the fastest route to Chiang Mai (total Kingdom of Sukhothai between Wat Phra Si Iriyabot distance 186 kms), or you may take Ayutthaya and Lanna. the less busy route H106 via Li. To Sukhothai The town makes a conve- 101 KAMPHAENG PHET This will allow you to return either nient overnight stop on a Historical Park via Lamphun, visiting Wat Bang

two-day drive to Bangkok. Wat Phra Si Pang at KM.86 on the way (215 Modern hotels in the down- Iriyabot kms — see alternative route on town area include: Wat Phra Non 1 2 kms Day 1), or via Doi Tao using H1103

P I Phet Hotel. 189 Bamrung- N to Key Point 17 in Hod, rejoining G National Museum R City Pillar I V rat Rd., Kamphaeng Phet To Tak E the full tour (257 kms. see Day 5). R Wat Phra Kaew 62000. Tel: (055) 712810-5 Old City Walls The first (approx.) 30 kms. of Fax: (66 55) 712816. H106 to Li has many bends and is

Chakungrao Hotel. 123/ Chakungrao a conduit for slow, heavy trucks 101 Hotel To Phichit 1 Tedsa Rd. Kamphaeng Night 115 carrying lignite. Once past the market Phet Hotel Petch 62000. Tel: (055) 711315, Navarat Hotel lignite mine, the route becomes area 711325-6. To Nakhon Sawan & Bangkok easy.

9 R DAY 3 : SUKHOTHAI - MAE SOT 166 kms.

The route crosses to Tak and the mountains that bound the western flank of the River Ping Valley. Visit national parks and hill-tribe villages on the way to Mae Sot, a town grown rich on border trade.

8 KEY POINT EIGHT

H101 Si Satchanalai/Kamphaeng Phet & H12 Sukhothai/Tak

9 KEY POINT NINE

H12 Sukhothai/Tak and H1113 to Si Satchanalai

10 KEY POINT TEN

H1 Lampang/Tak & H12 to Sukhothai

11 KEY POINT ELEVEN

H1 Tak/Kamphaeng Phet and H105 to Mae Sot Wat Mahathat, Sukhothai Wat 12 KEY POINT TWELVE left at Key Point 10 or drive straight to 11. The drive offers side trips to parks H105 Tak/Mae Sot & H1090 to the river. Turn left (south) immediately and hill-tribe villages, as well as the Umphang (traffic circle) before the bridge across the river to opportunity for fresh coffee at the see the town and go to the Chid Chon hill-tribe products market at KM.29. A rom Sukhothai Historical Park, H12 Restaurant. shrine at KM.70 honours Chao Pho F is a fast drive to Tak. You may turn Turn west onto H105 at Key Point Phawo, who died defending the spot

101 1175 To Thoen & Lampang Phrathat BAN 9 24 hr. Ton Kaew Ban Tak DAN LAN 1175 Ban 12 P 1 HOI I Kao N Sukhothai G SUKHO M Historical 8

R O MAE RAMAT

I 12

E V Park THAI I

R E R I V Y O E 105 10 R M 12 R I V E R Ban Mae Taksin TAK Lamao National Park KHIRIMAT Ban Huai 105 Kalok 1140 11 Ban Lahu Phrathat 105 104 1132 Hin Kiu 101 13 Ban Lahu 12 Ban Lahu Lan Sang MAE SOT (Musoe Hill National Park Moei Hilltribe Tribe Villages) Miyawadi Development Bridge PHRAN KRATAI 1090 Centre

1

0 10 20 kms.

1090 Historical Park SUKHOTHAI to MAE SOT To Umphang KAMPHAENG PHET 115

10 R To Thoen Tourism TAK Shrine Authority To of King Taksin of Thailand DAY 3: SIDE TRIPS Ban the Great Tak Beer 10 1107 Gardens ★ BHUMIPHOL DAM 12 — ST 4

P I N (61 Kms.) To G

R I reach the world’s eighth V To Sukhothai E R largest concrete arch dam turn north on H1 1 and then west at KM.462 Footbridge to Sam Ngao. Follow the signs from Tak to Viang Tak 2 Hotel Ban Tak and Sam Ngao for an alternative rural Suan Sin route on the west bank Garden Resort of the Ping. A rest house near the dam offers 104 accommodation. Amazing Tree

★ LAN SANG NA- park is famous for a huge specimen TIONAL PARK — ST 5 of anisoptera, a species of diptero- (3 kms.) The park carp. You have to sign in before entering the park. To reach the tree 1 Chid Chon contains a small water- Restaurant fall popular with the you walk 400m down a very steep track to the bottom of a ravine. Bird 11 people of Tak. To Mae Sot 105 To Kamphaeng Phet calls, primary forest and cool ★ LISU, HMONG temperatures in the evergreen lower AND LAHU VILLAGES — ST 6 down compensate for the stiff climb (5 kms.) A right (south) turn on back up. Allow one hour for the a sealed concrete road just before walk. KM.26 leads through a Lisu and a ★ Hmong village to a Hill-tribe THE MOEI RIVER FRONTIER Development Centre. Drive through CROSSING — ST 8 the centre to reach a Lahu village. (5 kms.) Drive past Key Point 13 Other villages of the Lahu Shehleh to the end of H105 at the bridge sub-group may be reached by across the Moei into Myanmar. Tour- taking a north turn (5 kms. 4WD) ists may walk across for a day visit along a dirt road near KM.27. (until 17:30) and will need 10 US$. You will get a new visa upon return- ★ TAKSIN MAHARAT NA- ing to Thailand. The Grapow Pla Mae Sot morning market TIONAL PARK — ST 7 restaurant on the north side of the (3 kms. 4WD after 2 kms.) The bridge ramp is good. against a Burmese army in the late 18th century. Mae Sot is a busy trading town best known for its morning market. You may purchase gems, semi-precious stones and other products from Myanmar, perhaps at prices that are good. Bhumiphol Dam Lahu Shehleh

11 R To Mae Sariang To Tak MAE SOT Khao-Mao Khao-Fang The Central ACCOMMODATION (km.2 10:00-22:00) Mae Sot Hill 105 105 Hotel 12 105 Viang Tak 2 Hotel. 236 Chomphol 13 Rd. Tak 63000. Tel: (055) 512507-8. A modern medium rise hotel on the SP river front near the main market of Tak. Tour DK Hotel The Central Mae Sot Hill Hotel, 100 Asia Highway, Mae Sot, Tak 63110. Tel: Porn Thep Hotel (055) 532601-8 Fax: (66 53) 532600. Bangkok Office Fax: (66 2) 541 1038. Kwangtung (Chinese) The most luxurious hotel in the Restaurant Mae Sot area. Morning market area 1090 Porn Thep Hotel. 25/4 Soi Sri Wiang, 105 To Moei River Bridge & Myanmar Prasathwithi Rd, Mae Sot, Tak. Tel: (055) 532590-4. Thai style medium rise 0 500 m. To Umphang hotel in the middle of town.

SPECIAL SIDE TOUR TO ing on state of upkeep) make travel UMPHANG slow. Allow at least five hours for the (164 kms one way. 4WD) H1090 journey. is the only way in to the small Umphang offers comfortable district town of Umphang, which is rustic-style bungalow/guest house bounded by the Burmese border and accommodation. There are noodle by mountainous and protected shops on the high street and restau- nature reserves. rants at the guest houses. Night From Key Point 12 H1090 is a entertainment is provided by well- good highway. H1206 (KM.31 west known folk singer Khru San at Gift turn) goes to Pop Phra District, the House (H1090. KM.162), when he is large Karen refugee camp at Ban Mo in town. Koe, and the border crossing at Ban Guest houses offer combination Wa Le. The Kulap Doi (Mountain rafting, elephant and trekking tours Rose) Restaurant. (07:00-21:00: Tel: through magnificient scenery to 055 520349) and Phacharoen Falls waterfalls and Karen villages along (700 m. west ) are both near KM.36 the Umphang River. The minimum and provide an opportunity to break. required time is two nights in Tilosu Falls The last gas stations before Umphang for the main day-trip to Umphang are around KM.44, after Tilosu falls, but longer treks for wild- Tel: (055) 561063-4. Fax: (66 53) which point the road narrows and life enthusiasts can be arranged. 561065. - Part of SP Tour the surface deteriorates. The rest of Though walk-in clients are catered which has an office in Mae Sot (055) the journey follows a spectacular for, advance booking is advised, 546112-4 (see map) and operates a route along precipitous slopes, high especially during peak periods. rustic guest house near Mae Salit ridges and across deep ravines. (Day 4). Sharp corners, steep grades, pitted ACCOMMODATION IN and broken road surfaces (depend- UMPHANG UMPHANG Bunyaporn Resort. 106 Um- phang-Palatha Rd, Umphang, Tak Hospital 63170. Tel: (055) 561040-1. - An older guest house with newly-built Power Station Phu Doi Res. To riverside bungalows on stilts. District Mae 1090 Offices Tu Ka Su Cottage. 40 Mu 6, Sot Umphang, Tak 63170. Tel: (055) 561295 or mobile: (01) 8258238. Fax: (66 2) Umphang House (GH.) 9164164. - Khun Suchart (‘Woody’) Bunyaporn Resort & Res. Villa Tour (GH.) E R I V provides friendly service in adjoining R G Umphang Hill Resort (SP Tour) N Huai A H family-sized bungalows. P Tu Kasu Cottage & Res. U M Nam Yen Umphang Hill Resort. Umphang- Ruan Kaew GH. To Doi Hua Mot & Ban Palatha Skaw Karen Palatha Rd. Umphang, Tak 63170. Garden Resort (Karen. 26 kms. 4WD)

12 R DAY 4 : MAE SOT - MAE SARIANG 232 kms.

Karen villages in striking scenery are found along the Moei River that forms the frontier between Thailand and Myanmar. The route follows the river before climb- ing away to the north to pass over into the valley of the River Yuam and to the small town of Mae Sariang.

13 KEY POINT THIRTEEN he Moei river flows To Mae Hong Son To Mae Chaem

M north-west into the A T E Ob Luang 1088 H105 to the Moei River and H105 C 108 in Myanmar H National Park A To Ban Sam E to Mae Sariang. M through borderlands occu- R I V E R pied by the Karen. Until 6:00-21:00 14 KEY POINT FOURTEEN MAE SARIANG 15 16 HOD recently the Burmese side 17 108 of the border was under 14 H105 to Mae Sot and H108 Mae 24 hr. Sariang/Chiang Mai control of independent km.219 24 hr. Karen, many of whom Ban Ton Phung 1103 have fled to Thailand and 1194 1099 CAUTION: now live in refugee camps SOP MOEI Do not travel H105 between in the Mae Sot area (H105 105 km.190 Mae Ngao the district towns of Mae Ramat passes one of these National Park ER V around KM.60.) I and Sop Moei after dark. Military R N

G M Tha Song Yang Dis- A U A checkpoints may prevent you from Y O OMKOI trict town is a small bor- R I entering remote stretches of road V E because of recent instability along der town, but the scenery R is more impressive around the border. The route is quite safe Ban Tha during the day, but you should the half-way point at Mae Song Yang make sure you have a full tank of Salit (KM.114), where gas when you leave Mae Ramat or there is a small restaurant Ban Mae Ramoeng

(06:00-18:00). You may M towns. Mae Moei National Park A detour to see life on the Mae Salit E T

km.114 U

N

R I V 105 E R Mae Usu km.94 Caves THA SONG M YANG O E I R I V E R

1175 Phrathat Ton Kaew MAE RAMAT M Y A N M A R 105 ( B U R M A ) Ban Huai Kalok 24 hr. Phrathat Hin Kiu 13 105 12 Miyawadi MAE SOT Moei 0 10 20 kms. Bridge 1090

MAE SOT to MAE SARIANG Moei River

13 R To Mae Hong Son MAE SARIANG 108 DAY 4: SIDE TRIPS Royal Foundation for ★ MAE USU CAVES — ST 9 Handicrafts (KM.94. West turn 2 kms.) Part of the Moei River

Rd.

nit

a National Park, the caves are about 300m. long. Karen guides

h

P

g 108 (voluntary contribution expected) will show you through

n

e a

L the caves. Riverside Guest House To km. 14 ★ 103 NATIONAL PARKS OFF H105 (4WD) — ST 10 mai Rd. Mae Sam Laep Wiang (46 kms) Mitr A Ree Hotel To The Moei River National Park HQ is 11 kms. up a dirt 09:00-23:00 Lotus Chiang Renu Mit A Ree Guest Hotel & Mai road at an east turn north of KM.114. There are two guest Inthra 08:00-23:00 House Guest 105 houses after 15 kms (check first if they are open. The Kamolsorn Hotel House Monkrating Guest House is run by SP Tour. Mae Sot Tel:

Wat (055) 546121-4 Fax: (66 55) 532279. Bangkok Res. Fax: (66 2) Suphan Rangsri to Mae Sot (230 kms) 5737942). The road climbs to viewpoints (18-20 kms) over misty valleys in the early morning, before descending to the Karen village of Mae Ra Moeng (35 kms.) river at Mae Salit and Ban Tha Song Tel: (053) At KM.190 a dirt road goes to Mae Ngao National Park Yang, before the road turns passes over 681048, 681156. (5 kms.) and to a viewpoint over the morning mists. to the valley of the Mae Ngao and down Functional to Mae Sariang on the Yuam River. hotel in enter- tainment complex. Mit A Ree Guest House (Wiang Mai ACCOMMODATION Rd) Tel: (053) 681109. Fax: (66 53) 681280. Bungalows at the back of Kamolsorn Hotel (Mae Sariang Rd). the hotel compound offers the best Tel: (053) 618623. Fax: (66 53) 681203. accommodation in Mae Sariang. Functional downtown hotel

Lotus Guest House (Wiang Mai Rd) Near Ban Tha Song Yang

DAY 5 : MAE SARIANG - CHIANG MAI 190 kms.

The main road crosses the high country populated by the Karen and Lawa between the Salween and Ping watersheds before entering the valley of the Mae Chaem River. Routes upstream and downstream along the Mae Chaem Valley offer different approaches to the highest mountain in Thailand, Doi Inthanon.

15 KEY POINT FIFTEEN junction of H1012 to Doi Tao and Li crosses cleared uplands in a series of with H108 passes between small valleys. Side (KM.56) The bridge at Ban Kong roads lead to Karen and Thai villages Loi and the turn off for side trip 11. 18 KEY POINT EIGHTEEN in the plateau country.

16 KEY POINT SIXTEEN Wat Phrathat Chom Thong The road descends from the pine forests of the Bo Luang plateau, reach- (KM.22) The junction of H1088 at 19 KEY POINT NINETEEN ing the turn off for the alternative route the start of the alternative route to Mae to Mae Chaem on H1088 at KM.22. Go Airport Plaza intersection of H108 Chaem, the summit of Doi Inthanon to Ob Luang gorge at KM.17 on H108 and the Om Muang Rd near the Bud- and Chom Thong (117 kms.) for short walks in the National Park on get Office. a picturesque part of the Mae Chaem 17 KEY POINT SEVENTEEN fter the climb away from the river. The clock tower at Hod and the A Yuam River Valley, the route H108 continues to Hot and Chom

14 R 1096 MAE RIM Sunflowers Mae Sa SAMOENG Ban U Kho DAY 5: 12 (Hmong) Ban Huai Mana KHUN YUAM 1263 CHIANG MAI 24 SIDE TRIPS 24 hr. 19 Ban Muang Pon (Karen) HANG DONG ★ Ban Hang Pon BAN SAM — ST 11 Luang Ta Kham SAN 10:00-22:00 Ban Nong Haeng PATONG (H108 KM.56 Left turn [north] 108 Doi Inthanon after bridge. 46 kms. 4 hrs). This road 1263 Kao Mai Park HQ Ban Thung Sieo Mae Pan Vachiratarn Lanna follows high ground to the new 10:00-22:00

Y route Little Home Mae Tho National Park and the U Ban Mae La Luang e

A 1192 v MAE CHAEM ti RIVER M Guest House A a G Hmong village of Lao Lee e l tern Mae Klang I N t R Lai Hin Guest House 108 P

u

I

V 09:00-24:00 o

r (KM.16). From Lao Lee the road E

R R Mae Ya Ban Mae Pang R I V E e

M v E i

Ban Sam t descends passing Karen villages A CHOM THONG H a 18 (Lawa) C n Pang Thong Hotel MAE 108 r E

e [At Ban Mae Ap walk 1.5 kms to a A

t l Mon Duang Duan LA NOI M 1088 1266 A Ban Nong Ap Chang 06:00-21:00 waterfall at KM.24] in beautiful R E Ban Mae Ap V Ban La Up Khao I mountain scenery, eventually (Karen) R (Lawa) Krairaj Ob Luang G Ban Mae Tia N I reaching the Lawa village of Ban Thephanom Resort P Ban Lao Lee Mae Tho (Hmong) Hot Springs22 Sam. (Hmong) 1270 16 Hod HOD 14 108 Resort17 MAE SARIANG MAE km.103 Ban Mae Ho SARIANG 108 (Karen) km.54 to CHIANG MAI 06:00-21:00 24 hr. 15 Ban Kong Loi1099 To Om Koi (50kms)

Thong. The village of Nong Ap Chang (Pa Saeng Da Textile Museum KM.69 ACCOMMODATION right turn [east]. 500m.) is famous for local weaving. In Chom Thong itself, Khao Krairaj Resort. KM.17. Wat Phrathat Sri Chom Thong is an im- Hot-Mae Sariang Rd. Hod. Tel: (01) portant pilgrimage site for Thai Bud- 2243818. Plank wood rooms in dhists. lovely setting at Ob Luang National Park. From Chom Thong you may visit Doi Hot Resort. (KM.5 [4 kms. from Inthanon (KM.60 left turn [west] on Hot]) Tel: (053) 460070. Mobile: (01) H1009. 47 kms.) as well as to the Mae 9501700. Rustic A frame huts by Ya Falls (KM. 60 left turn [west] on the Mae Chaem River. H1009 for one kilometre and then left Pang Thong Hotel (KM.58 on the turn [south] again). north side of Chom Thong). Tel: (053) From Chom Thong, H108 is a fast 826605. Fax: (66 53) 826609. Fun- route back to Chiang Mai and the Bud- ctional new hotel near the town. get Office near Key Point 19. Mae Phan Falls, Doi Inthanon

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE TO MAE chedis at KM.40 before going to the CHAEM & DOI INTHANON visitor centre and nature trail at the Turn left (north) at KM.22 onto summit. H1088 to Mae Chaem (45 kms.). The The journey down to Chom road passes the Thephanom hot Thong (47 kms. from the summit) springs after 9 kms. Beware of trucks passes the park headquarters and carrying lignite using the same road. three major waterfalls. On H108 a 2 Mae Chaem is a small rural district kms. detour south along H108 to town famous for weaving. Sur- Wat Phrathat Sri Chom Thong (Key rounding villages are traditional and Point 18) is worthwhile before have some lovely old temples, and returning to Chiang Mai. the nearby hills are populated by the Lai Hin Guest House (2 kms Hmong and Karen. from Mae Chaem on H1088). Tel: H1192 is a narrow road with 828258. The most comfortable many sharp curves up Doi Inthanon, accommodation and restaurant in joining H1009 after 22 kms. Turn left the Mae Chaem area. Spaghnum moss on Aangh Kha (north) onto H1009 to reach the royal (Doi Inthanon)

15 R SAFE DRIVING IN THAILAND

THAI ROADS DRIVERS LICENSE All main and most minor All drivers must hold a roads are sealed. Warning current, non-probationary signs and reflective arrows À¬ÿ¥ license. The license may either mark sharp corners, while tem- be Thai, or from the renter’s porary signs mark hazards like country of residence (with an English translation), or an landslides and road works STOP NO PASSING (these can be extensive where international driver’s permit. upgrading is in process). Main Licenses (and a valid passport) intersections are illuminated must be carried at all times when driving. with sodium lighting. The À¬ÿ¥ government is firmly in con- IF YOU HAVE AN trol of the whole country and µ√«® ACCIDENT: highway robbery has been unheard of for many years. If possible leave your vehicle where it came to rest, STOP (POLICE) CHECK SLIPPERY ROAD ROAD SIGNS AND (so that police can apportion KILOMETRE STONES blame for the accident) and contact the police as soon as Bilingual (English/Thai) possible. Dial 191 for a toll free road signs indicate destinations call to the local police or 1699 and route numbers before for the tourist police. Make intersections, and show the sure injured parties get to a road number and the distance hospital as soon as possible to the next main destination (other Thais will often take care of this) and set up warn- after the intersection. Kilo- STEEP HILL FALLING ROCKS (LAND SLIDE) metre markers show the road ings for other drivers ( placing branches of trees on the road); number and distance down then contact Budget. Stay with the road on the front face. Dis- For reservations, please contact your your vehicle and take care of tances to the next destination travel consultant or call Budget: your valuables! in the direction of travel are found on the side of the stone. In the U.K.: 0541 56 56 56 DRIVING ON DIRT In the U.S.: (800) 527-0700 ROADS LOCAL DRIVERS In Germany: 01 80 / 5 24 43 88 In Australia: 13-28-48 Dirt Roads go all over the Most drivers in Thailand In Singapore: 532-4442 mountains, but even Thais can get lost in the maze of cross- are reasonable, if not a little In Thailand: 66 2 203-0250 selfish for they tend to give roads, so taking a guide way little. Be careful of (approx. 500 Baht/day) for remote roads is advisable. oncoming vehicles that over- not drive fast just after dusk as at the major towns, but rural take and force you to take to The tracks are steep and lots of local traffic is returning stations will close in the narrow and very tricky in the the hard shoulder. Be ready to to the villages. Many traffic evening. Prices are around 13 go onto the hard shoulder at a rainy season. If you plan an accidents happen at this time baht a litre, and gas stations overnight trip on a dirt road moment’s notice, especially on in Thailand! Be careful of will require cash. trip take the following: torch, corners and hills! Be careful of WITHIN DESIGN (053) 272111-2 oncoming vehicles with one candles and matches, warm vehicles entering from side light — they may not be ROAD RULES clothes (especially in winter), roads, which may not stop. motorcycles! Night driving is water, dry food, insect repel- The maximum speed limit not recommended. lent, and a full tank of gas. AT NIGHT is 60 kph in town and 90 kph Drive very slowly to prevent FUEL on highways, if you can mechanical problems from Many vehicles do not have believe it! Seat belts should be stranding you. rear lights, especially carts, 24 hour service stations worn and driving while drunk motorcycles and bicycles. Do are found on main routes and is illegal. Happy safe driving!

R