History

of Coryell County

By FRANK E. SIMMONS

Published by CORYELL COUNTY NEWS 1936 FACSIMILE REPRODUCTION 1965 DAYTON KELLEY Belton, Texas

Printed by

Waco, Texas CONTENTS

Archeology of Coryell County ______page 2 The Tonkawa Indians_------6 James Coryel! ______tl-13 Organizing Coryell County ------15 0. T. Tyler, Fathe1· of Coryell County ______19 Coryell County ------21 Gatesville, in Its Eearly Days ______25 Era of Lawlessness______29 Cedar Posts and Barb Wire ______33 Early Churches of Coryell County------37 Place Names ______------44 Hugh Sheridan ------51 Pioneer Industries------52 Coryell County Authors______54 Fort Gates ______------58 Legends of Fort Gates ______62 Copperas Cove, City of Five Hills ______65 Turnersville ______68 ~'Vita ------71 Ireland, Ewing, Ruth and Boaz ______72 Purmela. Oglesby ------73 Robert B. Wells, Minister and Lawyer ______76 Richard G. Grant, Father of Gatesville ______78 Early P!oneer Customs ______79 Present ·Day Gatesville______82 Republic of Texas Land Patent ______89 'rhe Wends, Ge1'11lans, Other Nationalities ______90 Mother Neff Memorial Park ______94 Jess Kerby, Oldest County Resident ______97 Laying Cornerstone Present Courthouse ______100

ERRATA Page 4, pars.graph 3, the word "ruder culture" should be used instE:ad of "richer culture." Page 6, paragrai:,h 3, "dispossess11 should be used in place of "dispose." Page 11, paragrapt,_ 3, "1834 and 1835" should read "1835 and 1836." Page 12, "1853'' should be "1854." Page 19, all references to "0. Y. Tyler" should be changed to "0. T. Tyler." Page 26, "Saunders J. Wilkerson" should be "Saunders & Wilkerson." Page 46, "Bertrand Branch," shot~ld be "Bertrong Branch.'' Page 48, ''Cunningham Cove" should be "Cunningham Cave.'' Page 52, paragraph 2 refers to the old Isaac McClain house three miles f l'om Whitson. In chapter on Coryell County Authors, paragraph 5, should be "Cave Creek," and paragraph 10 is "World War." Fort Gates, in 1850 was garrisoned by Cos. D and I. Page 63, paragraph 1. "legion" should read "legend." Page 68, "Boob- or Bobb-Pancake" in every caseshould read "Babb-Pancake." Page 72, parf.graph 2, "how-hide" typographical error, and should be '·cow-hide bottom chairs.'' Page 73, "Londford.'' should read "Langford." Page 74, last paragraph "J. C. Stockburger'' should read "J. E. Stockburger." Page 82. The monument commemorating James Coryell was erected on U. S. High way No. 84, three miles east of Gatesville and a bronze plaque beariP.g the fol1owing in­ scription in relief: "CoryeJI County. Created Feb. 4, 1854. Organized May 4, 1854. Formed from Bell County. Named in honor of Jame~ Coryell, Born in Tennessee in 1796. A member of th~ Bowie Expedition to the old San Saba Sil­ ver Mines in 1831. A Texas Ranger. Killed by Indians near Fort Milam, May 27, 1837. County Seat Fort Gat~s 1854, Gatesville since."

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

For valuable assistance in many ways in con1piling this history, our f;incere thanks are due: To many a pioneer, \vood chopper, farmer and ranchman n,)t menfioned in the text; To treasure hunters; To Judg·e Robt. W. Brown, and the County Comn1issioners, N. E. Jayroe, Dick Payne, H. E. Preston, and W. E. Hol­ comb; To Frank i)'Jbie for per!!l!ssion to use material ap­ pearing in TeX$\S Folklore Society publications; To Rev. L. J. Wetner and Prof. Geo. C. Engerrend; To information dtawn from "Pen Pictures from the Garden of Eden;'' To Miss Lo~sie Hume.~: and to Mrs. J. P. Kendrick for the loan of her valuable collection of Coryell County lore; and lo Mr. J. M. Frank's pioneer history.

And t') the many others '¼1 ho gtive valuable sugge~- 1ions and information. Sincerely, July 4, 1936. Frank E. Simmons, Og·lesby, Texas.

PREFACE

In offel'ing this assembly of historical informa­ tion we do not pretend that it is a complete history of the County. We hav~ necessarily had to be brief; merely sketching an outline upon which a more complete history may be built. We have tried to be as authenic as to materials used, and yet we have tried to leave the thread of narrative so that a historical article may be attached at any given point without interfering ,vith our story or that of the other contributors. If we have given mor(.l space to some individuals, it is because the story of those individuals reflect conditions under ,vhich most pioneer f umilies lived. We have tried to trace the origins of place-names because most places bear a part of the history of a pioneer, or an incident in Coryell County history. For valuable assistance rendered we are obligated to Mrs. J. P. Kendrick, The Coryell County News, and for reprints from the McGregor Mirror.

FRANK E. SIMMONS. ARCHEOLOGY. OF CORYELL COCXT"Y

To compile a history of a thin,g, or place, is to be­ gin at the beginning-. It would be impossible to establish a definite chronology as to man's occupancy of the land now known as Coryell C() 11nty. Only the sciences of Archeology and Geolcgy can assun1e to establish that chronology and then it \\·ould be only theoretical. Accepting the theories of Geology and Archeology, as furnishing on approxin1ate date for man's arrival in the Leon Valley, we find that Coryell County history is us old, probably, as any that historians of the ,vorld have regarded. In 1914 while searching the Leon River banks, iu the Round Mountain area, for artifacts left by antecedent races, we noticed several feet below the top fJf the river banks strata of muscle shells, burnerl rock, charcoal and flint. Closer study sho,ved these to be buried middens or camping· •places that had been occupied by ancient n1en when the Leon Valley was several feet lower than it is now. We noticed that' these middens ,vcre always on top of a light coarse formation and over the111 ,verc several feet of finer, darker alluvium. In the sloughs, usually back sor:1e distance tro1n the river, flood waters had uncovered numbers of n1iddens that are several feet below the surrounding territory, where the alluvial deposit is removed, the ancient midden deposit condition occurs. Since we first noticed these subn1erged n1iddens in 1914, we have at intervals searched them for stonagc arti­ facts left by man. At a place on<» the Lynch far1n ,ve found in the Mid­ den Strata, in the river bank, a scrap of pottery, an extra ARCHEOLOGY OF CORYELL COUNTY 3 good mono stone, several good arrow heads, and an excel­ lent flint knife. At another place where overflows had uncovered a "Shell" midden we found more than fifty excellent flint arrow heads and knives, a bone tool, and a scrap of obsidian. We here quote from Frank Bryan's article in the 1935 report of the Central Texas Archeology Society: "The facts are these: you have some six known feet of midden material, with an abundance of light charcoal and ash in it, buried beneath fine black silt. The contact be­ tween the black silt and the lighter colored, sandy mater­ ial on the midden level is an unconformable contact which extends for miles up and dovvn the Leon in this locality. Some four miles on an air. line, down strea1n, the Leon loses its broad bottom and "'rinds a tortuous course be­ tween high limestone canyon walls. It has experienced great difficulty in cutting its way throug·h this thick heel of limestone where it is up-arched over a lo\v anticlinal fold, some ten miles west of the we~t series of the Bal­ cones Fault System. "The geological explanation, were it not complicated with the age of man, would be this: During the slipping along Balcones Fault Systen1, this anticlinal arch exper­ ienced an uplift of sufficient height to dam the waters of the Leon, causing it, for a considerable length of time, to flood its broad upper bottom and leave deposited over the sandy alluviuin, an eleven foot layer of much finer and blacker material. Since this uplift dammed the Leon enough time has elapsed to en;.Lble this industrious stream to cut a narrow groove across the crest of the uplift deep enough to now expose its banks merely the whole of its old sand alluvium as well as the layer of finer material nbove. Than this, the \\Titer has heard, as yet, no other explanation." For historical purposes we will continue to quote Mr. Bryan. " . . . even though tho bulk of this faulting along the Balcones System took place during the ice age 4 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY in middle to late Plustocene Time." Mr. Bryan is an eminent archeolog-ist as well as a geologist, and to quote him once more ,vill bring us to our point. "The introduction of Pottery into central Texas was so comparitively recent tl.at the pottery makers in­ variably chose for dwelling places site~ formerly occupied by people who knew not the art." The last quotation from Mr. Bryan convinces us that he is not aware that finely finished flint artifacts, a finely finished "pecked and ground" mono stone and scrap& of pottery havE: been found on the contact of the dark alluvium and the light coarse underlay of soil that was the original material of the Leon bottom. These artifacts collected by the writer and his son indicate that a Neolithic culture existed he1·e previous to the upheavals that produced the Balcones Fault System and was super­ ceded by a richer culture that endured for nges before pottery makers again appeared in the Leon Valley. If these deductions are correct, Coryell County had a Neolithic• culture coheval with the Sumerion culture than obtained in the entire Mediterreanaen areas befort the bronze age. In these historr sketches we can only call attentio:1 to these "sub1nerged rniddens'' as the first fruits of man's recorded hi~tory in our county. Mute records to be sure, but convincing just the same. We may add here that these archeology finds are of vast importance to the scientific \\'orld in tracing- the antiquity of man. There is a clearer field, however, in the burials, and midden deposits found throughout the county. Scores of Rock shelters, or caves are to be found, each bearing testimony that it was once the home of primitive man. The writer has yet to find a rock shPlter that does not bear archeological evidence ()f having been occupied as a • d,velling place, or a home, or a repository for our ances- tors. A great deal of this evidence iR regarded by geo- ARCHEOLOGY OF CORYELL COUNTY 5

logists and archeologists a~ being very, very old. The evidence here, however, has not been \\'eighed, and check­ ed carefully enough to form absolutely positive opinions as to origins, chronology, etc. Vast lots of stoneage _relics have been collected in this area, but it is regrettable that by far, the greater part of the n1a terials recovered have been found by people who sell the artifacts, and \\' ho did not check the conditions under ,vhich the materials were found, so that it is vir­ tually useless as evidence to check cultural periods, and some archeolog·ists a~sert that as many as four distinct culture periods are r<1prehcnted in the archeology of the county. Much has been done to classify anrl interpret the evidence at hand. Chief of those engaged in this county is Dr. Clyde Bailey of Gatesville, who has an ela­ borate collection and who has carefully checked, and regis­ tered all n1aterials acquired. THE TONKA\\TA INDIANS

In Corre!) County along the Cowhouse and the Leon Rivers, and their tributaries, the Tonkawa Indians had their home at the time of the coming of the white set­ tlers" Their territory also included the Bosque watershed and extended down to the Waco territory at the mouth of the Bosques. Within this tei-ritory in the Bosque water­ shed are three places that derived their: names from the Tonka'\\·a Indians. rronka\\·a Spring, on the Witte farm a few miles above Crawford in McLennan county, Tonkawa Creek, of which the spring is the source, flows near the town of Crawford and enters Middle Bosque below that town and Tonkawa Park, a state park established on Ton­ kawa Creek near Cra\\·f ord. 'fhis park was laid out and developed in 1933 and is a place of great sc~nic beauty. This people, ho\\1ever, had contacted civilized people before. For a hundred and fifty yeai·s, or probably long­ er, they haq been meeting Spaniards who came as ex­ plorers, conquerors, or missionaries. They also had ,van­ dered as far south as the coast, where they had fish inir. grounds, and wher~ they were known tc, the fe,v 1·ancheros who dwelt in that part of Texas at the beginning of the nineteenth century. l)uring· the S11anish regime in Louis­ iana French traders were comn1is8ioncd to trade with the Tonkawa, thus a friendly co1nmercial l'elation existed with those traders during the last decarle of the Eighteenth and the beginning of the Nineteenth centuries. They were thus prepared to forn1 friendly relations with the new settlers. Destiny was dealing harshly with the 'l'onka\va nation. They were caught as bet,•,een an upper and nether millstone. Tq the south and east the relentless Anglo Saxon, gre~dy and covetous, seeking· to dispose THE TONKA \VA INDIAXS 7

them of their lands, was entering and taking the choicest tracts of land without consent from, them. To the north and ,vest their old ~mplacab]c foe, the Comanch~, waged merciless war upon them. The Tonkawas were helpless so they aligned themselves with the whites for the better protection that race could give. With the establishment of Fort Gates, the Ton­ kawa, as a nation ceased to exist. \Vi thin four years they were entirely disposses.;cd and forcibly sent into an exile without end. I-Jere upon Coryell County soil was enacted one of those dramas that dHrken the pages of history: -the obliteration e,1 a defPn~cless nation of Jeo­ ple. Old chroniclers tell that this nation of people \\~ere peaceable intelligent and easily contrclled and that their mortal fear of the Kio,va c,nd Cnn1anche, at \rhose hand~ they had suffered a gTeat deal, made thc1n ,vil1ing allies of the whites with whon'1 they cnn~orted for protection against their old enemies. This nation numbered betwec_:,n four and five hun ired warrio14~. 11. Y.'as the Tonkaw,l:-;' boast that a white scalp was never lifted by any memb~r of their tribe. The 1,eople \\'ere hunters and agricultur­ ists. They grew co1·n, beans, pumpkins and \\'ild fruit..:~ and nuts4 The old Tonkawa Trail ran a northeast-southwest direction crossing from the Bosque territory to the south­ west. This trail crosses ,vhat is now High ,vay 7, near Cox Springs a few miles east of Gatesville. Along this trail are some carvings locally kno,vn as the "bowl and spoon carvings." This was probably the national high­ way used by wandering members or other nations in crossing this territory on hunting expeditions. When Fort Gates was established in 1s4g the In­ dians made the settlement their n1ain rendezvous. In 1852 the country was becoming well settled by whites and the entire Tonkawa Nation V{as n1overl to the reserv:1tinn 8 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY in the \\1est. Many Tonkawa. however, wandered back at timPs, among the settlements where they could always be seen for they are reputed to have been peaceable. In 1870-71 when Gen. McKinsie was ordered to force the Comanche onto the plains, he enlisted the Tonkawa war­ riors as scouts and history is replete w·ith records of their bravery and how they hung relentlessly upon the heels of the Comanche as the latter retreated back into the high plains country. There is at present a small remnant of this once honored race of Indians, hemmed up on a reservation in Oklahoma. There are numerous archaeological remains diHtri­ buted thruout this territory. Every creek bank and cave and many mountain sides have a history record written in the stone handicraft, and flint quarries where they quarried the coveted flint that they depended upon for a livelihood as we depend upon iron. 'fhe artifacts of this territory have been collected by Dr. Clyde Bailey of Gatesville, Elbert Thomason of McGregor, Jacob Olson and G. W. Anderson of Clifton and the writer, all of whom have elaborate collections of stoneage. art' left by the Indians. Other collectors also have gathered material from this te1Titory.

Indian Raids in Coryell In 1857 Indians made a raid on Owl Creek and committed several murders. I find in an old pioneer rec­ ord that in 1857 two men named Brown and Pierce, to­ gether with a little boy named Dave Elam, were hauling rails when they were attacked by Indians. The two men were killed and scalped. The boy was severly flogged but escaped. (Dave Elam, name error, a kin of Mrs. Elms). Mrs. Irene Elms, at the age of 81 years had lived • in the Sugar Loaf settlement when an Indian raid was made there. In this raid the Riggs family was murder- THE TONKAWA INDIANS 9 ed, according to Mrs. Elms. Together with their children they had been hauling wood and were unanned. Mr. and Mrs. Riggs were murdered and their home set on fire. The two girls, 9 and 11 years old, were made captives by the Indians, however, they were soon released, abandoned and found their way to an abandoned house where they spent the night. The next morning a neighbor foun~ the two children and carried them to safety. In 1860 Elder J. C. White of Coryell County and Elder Griffith of Hamilton County were attacked by In­ dians near Rainy Creek Church, which had been establish­ ed in 1857, by Elders Samuel Wheat and Jesse Graham of the Primitive Baptist faith. They escaped to the brush but Griffith was so badly wounded that he afterward died. In 1863 a Mr. Williamson and a Mr. Hendrickson were going to their home on the Cowhouse River when they were attacked by Comanches. An Indian horseman ran a spear thru Mr. Williamson, killing him instantly. He was scalped and his body left by the Indians. The body was recovered by the settlers. Mr. Henderickson escaped. In 1864 Capt. Gideon Graham's little boy was cap­ tured by Indians near Sugar Loaf Mountain. To prevent him from being recaptured by Capt. Burleson, the Indians piercd his body with a lance. Capt. Burlson returnee! the boy's dead body to Mr. Graham. In the years 1866 and 1871 raiding Indians came· into the Jonesboro settlement stealing horses and making their escape. Many parties of rangers from Coryell County pui- • sued raiding Comanches into the vast prairies of the West. It is said that many Indians visited the settlers 011 friendly missions. Mr. Pidcoke, for whom the town Pid­ coke is named, lived among the Indians for many months. He gained their undying friendship. The Chiefs Yell ow 10 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY

Wolf, War Loop and Buffalo Hump were his steadfast! friends and often visited his home where the village of Pidcoke is now located. I have not visited all of these historic spots but there are people in the county who can identify thein sufficiently weU that markers 1nay be placed at each, to preserve this history for posterity. These .remarks have been dra,vn largely from print­ ed records and from pioneers who remember them fro1n ear1y days. Especially the accounts of Indian raids. JAMES CORYELL

James Coryell was a character about whom little is known; I have not been able so far to find any record of the date of his birth, or the country in which he wa~ born. Those things may be recorded somewhere but I have searched vainly for them. He is descrilled by an early writer as "a likeable young fellow." Coryell belonged to the old reckless, adventurous type that sought adventure and room among the restless men who were moving the van of civilization farther into the unknown. He first appears in history at Fort Griffin at the Three Forks in Bell County. Here he joined a company of rangers being organized by Sterling C. Robert­ son in 1836. At that time the first Indian wars were on and all the territory of the Cowhouse, the Leon, the Bosque and Brazos Rivers were in the hands of Rangers and Indians. There were no settlers and we find the records of on]y two surveys of land that had been made in what is now Coryell County; those of F. R.. Fillett and James Hudson, made in 1834 and 1835 respectively. We later hear of James Coryell as a member of Capt. Thomas H. Bai·ron's Company and a little later in Capt. Geo. B, Erath's Company stationed at Fort Milam, near Brazos Falls, near where Marlin is now located. It was while in the service of Capt. Erath on an expedition to the Leon River country in May, 1838, that Coryell received his headright covering the lands adjacent to the mouth of Coryell Creek. Whoever has been on this league selected for a home by the pioneer, see~ at once that it was one of the finest locations in the Leon Valley on which to establish a hon1e. The scenic beauty· is un­ surpassed. The natural resources if properly husbanded, are inexaustable. 12 msTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY

To many people Coryell has become a legendary character, and many are the fireside tales told of his ex­ ploits. There is a tradition current that Coryell and hi~ party had been pursued by Indians, in the afternoon they had lain down under a liveos,k tree to rest, and after some time Coryell said, "I will stand and draw the fire of the redskins, so we can locate them." He rose to his feet and was mortally wounded. This, I am told occurred near White Hall, near the Waco and McGregor road. Another tradition say~ that while attempting to establish a settlement on his headrigbt, he was killed by Indians near the mouth of Coryell Creek, and points to the fact, as proof, that three human skulls were unearth­ ed there. There is still another story to the effect that he was killed by Indians high up on the head of· Coryell Creek. Relative to Coryell's death Capt. Erath has this to say, "While stationed at Fort Milam, Coryell, Ezra Webb and Michael Castleman made a sortie out from the Fo1·t to cut a bee tree. It was while engaged in this work -that they were attacked by Indians and €oryell killed. His comrades escaped." We a-re willing to accept Capt. Erath's version of the story, since it was under that rug­ ged old warrior that Coryell was serving as a Texas Ran­ ger. Whatever the facts may be, Coryell's name has been honored by ha,ing named f 01· him Coryell County, organ­ ized in 1853, Coryell Creek, Coryell City, a pre-civil war town, and Coryell Missionary Baptist Church established in 1854, the first organized church to be established in the coanty. JAMES CORYELL (II)

Since publishing the chapter on James Coryell, the author has come into some valuable information conce111ing this character that necessitates this additional story. Mrs. J.P. Kendrick, Gatesville, has shown us a letter f1-om Col. M. L. Crimmins of San Antonio that gives addi­ tional light on the life of Co1·yell. The stories about Coryell (oririnating from different sources) vary in some minor details, however, the main facts are substantially the same. Col. M. L. Crimmins writes : . "James Coryell was born in Tennessee in 1796. In 1828 he anived in Texas, ha,1ing come down the Mississippi River to New Orleans and then to San Antonio via Velasco. In 1831 he joiuned James and Resin P. Bowie in search of the San Saba silver mines, and he was one of the survivors of the Indian. fight that resulted. He returned to San An­ tonio and then moved to the Brazos River near Marlin with Arnold Cavitt. In 1835 he surveyed the land along Coryell Creek, as it is now called, with Cavitt. In 1836 he joined the Home Guard for defense against the Indians. On May 27, 1837, he was with a party of six men at Viesca, near the Falls of the Brazos. When half a mile on the road to Per­ ry's Spring they found a bee tree and cut it down and were eating the honey. Suddenly they heard a noise in the brush, and looking up, saw twelve Indian warriors. There were only two other men with Coryell at that particular time, and one had an empty gun and the other gun failed to fire. Coryell was too sick to run, but as he fired his gun as his companions ran away the Indians shot him and he fell, grasping the brush to try to hold himself up so he could shoot. The Indians killed and scalped him. Coryell County was named after him, as he \\·as its surveyor and gave up his life in his efforts to protect its settlers by fight­ ing the hostile Indians!' 14 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY

From Wilbarger's Indian Depredations The history on "Indian Depredations in Texas," by Wilbarger has the following concerning James Coryell: "Coryell was a native of the state of Tennessee. He came to Texas in the year 1828, being then quite a young man. In the yt:ar 1838 a party of surveyors went up the Leon River as far as the mouth of Coryell Creek, ten miles from where the town of Gatesville now stands. James Coryell and George B. Erath were among the party. They moved cautiously, keeping a good lookout for Indians, and selecting the best lands as they went on. In spite, how­ ever, of their watchfulness, they were finally surprised by a party of Indians. The Indians charged upon them and the ,vhites retreated. In the charge young Coryell was captured and killed." Land Patent and Records A Land Patent issued to James Coryell by the State of Coahuila and Texas (the province of Texas was joined to the state of Coahuila at that time by a Mexican law) June 22, 1835, (recorded in Book F, page 209, Deed Records of CQryell Counly) states that James Coryell was received a~ a colonist by Robert Leftiech on the 15th day of April, 1828 and Leftiech's colonization rights were transferred to the Nashville Company on the 15th day of October, 1829; that James Coryell was a bachelo1·. It further provided that he should establish permanent land marks at each angle of the land, and was bound to cultivate it according to the estab­ lished requirements." This patent covers 1180 acres of land at intersection of Coryell Creek and Leon River. (Filed for record in Co­ ]"yell County, October 13, 1870. In volume C, pages 151-155, there is recorded a pow­ er of attorney to sell said la.nds; also an affidavit of hei1·­ ship of James Coryell. These instruments are dated Octo- • her 22, 1853, and show that his mother, brothers and sis- ters resided in Adams County, Ohio. Also refers to James Coryell as "late deceased." ORGANIZING CORYELL COUNTY --- The territory, now known as Coryell County, dur­ ing the days of the Texas Repablic, had begun to attract bold pioneers, who were seeking new lands. In 1835, before Texas had gained her independence from Mexico, a Mr. F. R. Follett had made a location in the county. In 1836, the year of Independence, James Hudson made a location. Then for two years exploration ceased, but in 1838 Major Geo. B. Erath, with a company of Rangers, of which Jame~1 Coryell was a member, re­ sumed surveying and locating lands to be occupied later. In 1838 this surveying party made locations for the fol­ lowing named parties: N. Robertson, C. Swearing, W. C. McCain, James Coryell, R. D. Hicks, F. Grimes, Ed No1·­ ton, Chris Casanoba, Alfonzo Casanoba, Antonio Arveha, W. H. King, David Mumford, James Robinett, Benjamin Bryant, Stephen Easton, William Isaacs, John Teal, A. D. Orr, David Ayers, H. L. Marshall, Richard Graham, Elias Marshall, Benjamin Granville, John Yows, William Town­ send, Benjamin Doolittle, J. B. Lynch, A. S. Thearston, C. Cruse, Joseph Simmons, C. Rock,vell, Francis Zelener, Squire Haggard, Georg Buchman, J. M. Hill, Thomas Bert­ rong, N. W. Hackworth, Joseph Robins, Sam Lawrence, G. W. Rowels heirs, L. Hanum, John Logan, A. S. Aus­ tin, James ButtenYorth, F. Zelener, W. Y. McFarland, George Buchannon, W. F. Ken. The 40's showed an increase in homestead location~. In 1840 came J. C. Reed, W. Coony, Robert Brown, M. R. Harris, M. Hoop, W. Marshall, Jesse Powers, G. S. Stokes, Benjamin Richey, F. A. Wilson, T. Norris, T. J. Muse, J. Aviola, T. Hemsworth, H. \V. Jones, W. R. Curry, F. W. Thornton, S. Gordon, J. Hollingsworth and J. R. Cradick. In 1841, Sam Bluff, J. W. Heeler, C. Freeland, Joseph Merrill, B. D. Smith, S. Huffman, C. G. Manning, A. Reed- 16 HIBTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY er, L. B. Weedin, James Cooper, F. Wilhnuer, J. Clement4, F. W. Taylor and J. Guiser. In 1842 came the McCosley. heirs, T. W. House, H. Wilson, C. M. Hubby, S. Rice, J. Smith, J. Seckill, J. Murry and J. Walmsley. In 1844 came William Thompson, P. Kindall, A. S. Flury, W. Cornwall, J. Winn, Joseph Vanney, W. J. Wells, Benjamin Bustin, F. Lopez, M. Remires, D. Rochiguez, G. M. Cormonia, Luther Smith, Arthur Wells, B. E. Bee, Jesse Cliff, W. J. Scott, H. Holcomb, H. Teibout, Aleic Thompson, Hugh Wilson, R. G. McCutcheon, I. S. Roberts, D. Sherman, T. McKernon, J. P. Rice, N. R. Mullen, H. Higgins, N. A. Gee, H. Reiley, J. Grey, S. Sherman, Phil Coe. The 1845 surveys were made hy A. Caruther~ a!3 folJows: J. Humrick, E. C. Woodruff, J. Smith, T. J. Coz­ ley, N. P. Mounding, W. B. Munn, W. D. Thompson, N. Kavanaugh, J. 0. Whitefield, C. J. C. Lockhart, H. V. Roberts, Wm. Connelly,. R. P. Oden, J. W. Adkins, H. M. Schley, J. C. Rogers, E. Curd, M. H. Gunter, J. Y. Sav­ ·age, W. B. Tate, J. M. McLaughlin, Robert Brewster, Ann Gun, John Vermillion, J. P. House, A. \V. Moore, H. Smith, James Bailey, B. M. McDaniels, Green DeWitt,· H. Mor­ dorf, T. W. Nibbs, Washington Anderson, J. F. Bueno, J. T. P. Irvine, T. H. Eaton, R. W. Covett, and George Bond. In 1846 came M. H. Breedlove: G. Casuelas, Mary Rolms, A. S. Le·wis, W. L. Sawyers, B. McClure, A. H. Jordon, Arch Wynns, W. Jolly, S. G. Hart, Arthur Lynne, L. J. Latham, Matt Burke, J. W. Santers, J. Shackelford, G. H. Kellogg, J. W. Benedict, J. K. Booker, H. H. Collier, J. W. Cruger~ H. Hubbell, Richard Carter, Paul Philon, David Cameron, V. Hazil, D~niel Young, E. J. Parker, J. B. Woods, C. J. Williams, W. Whitehead, J. Houston, J. W. Asberry, A. W. Gates, J. H. Bernard, T. W. Carter. No settlement~ were made by the pioneers at the time their headrights were located. The country at that ORGANIZATION OF CORYELL COUNTY 17 time was unprotected. The nearest military posts were Fort Milam at the Brazos Falls and Fort Griffin at the Three Forks on the Little River. The Mexican war of 1846-48 came and pioneering ceased until Fort Gates was established in 1849. In 1845 Texas, by her choosing, became a member of the sisterhood of the United States. The proposition of annexation was left to a vote of the citizens of Texas. At the time of the election, Major Erath had been scout­ ing and surveying up the Bosque and returned by way of Hog Creek. Let us now quote Maj.. Erath, "On our re­ turn, the day of election for annexation and adoption of the constitution came on. We had an order from tne Chief Justice with us, and '\\?e opened the polls high up on Hog Creek in a part of the country now Coryell Coun­ ty." Thus before Coryell County had a white popula­ ticn, political elections were being held within what is now her borders. The Mexican war saw the vast territory of Texas without frontier protection. Upon the return of U. S. ~;oldiers fron1 that war, a chain of for.ts were established to protect the settlers from Indians, especially Comanche and Kiowa. In the Fall of 1849, a detachment of lT. S. soldiers ma1"ched up the Leon River to establish Fort Gates. We will here quote from a letter received from the Adjutant t}eneral, James F. McKinley, bearing the date March 19, 1935, in answer to our request for information regard­ ing Fort Gates : "* * * the records show that Fort Gates, Texas, was situated on the north bank of the Leon River above the mouth of Ceryell Creek, north of Austin, Texas. It was established October 26, 1849. It ,vas named in .honor of Major C. R. Gates, 4th United States Infantry. It was authorized on September 2, 1849, per orders No. 62, 8th Military Department.'' 18 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY

With assured protection from the Comanche, set­ tlers began to come into the country. In 1849 Thomas Scott setted below Fort Gates and to his wife was bor1! Joel Scott (formerly of Purmela), probably the first child born of white parentage in what is now Coryell County. In 1853, the following lived near Fort Gates: Robt. v.,nd Prior Childress, Daniel Moore, Thomas Griffin, J. L. Montgomery, Reuben Queen, Thomas Bertrong, T. H. Rob­ inson, J. C. Russell, B. Hood, Jesse Howell, James Kell, R. G. Grant, 0. Y. Tyler, McKay Dalrumple, and Hugh Sheridan, a discharged soldier. These early settlers, with a fe'\\7 others about the Fort, furnished the troops with com, hay, beef, and such other supplies as could be produced in the settlement. The houses of the settlers were built of logs, with cedar poles for rafters. The roofs were made of riven oak boards. We are told that R. G. Grant's first trading station had a roof of bear skins. The little farms we1·e fenced with rails. For comfort and utility, the houses had stone fireplaces, and it was on the fires of these fire­ places that most of the cooking was done. On the Cowhouse too, there was a settlement made by Thomas Kinsey an

About half way between Leon Junction and Mound, and south of the railroad, stands a very interesting old ruin. It's the crumbling remains of the old 0. T. Tyler homestead, and was erected in 1852. The old house which was built of rock, sand, gravel and lime concrete, is in ruins and has been for some sixty years. All of the woodwork having been burned out back in the reconstruction days that followed the Civil War. The ruins suggest the old mission ruins of the south. In its original state it was built to exact architec­ tural lines. The west wall was 31 feet long, the north wall was 31 feet long and the ground plan an L. facing east of south. A part of the walls are tumbled down but there is enough le.ft standing to give one a fair idea of the character of the man who built for comfort, strength, exactness, and refinement. There were six large rooms, every one Vfith a fireplace, for there are still six fire­ places in the walls. Three in the first story, three in the second story. The place has been deserted so long that mesquite brush and prickly pear have taken possession of the grounds around.' Even the rooms that once echoed with a mother's songs and the happy laughter of child­ hood are now occupied by fallen stones, prickly peai· and mesquite brush. Ivy is creeping over a part of the walls, \\·hich · are 20 feet high. Forty feet from the northwest corner of the mai.n building was a 2econd concrete building twelve by twelve feet with walls t,venty inches thick. It was likely a ser­ vant house, or a smoke house. Some distance west· of the house was a cedar post stockade, built of cedar posts set upright in the ground. This stockade was twenty- • eight by fourteen yards and may have been used for the safe keeping of the livestock in those turbulent times. ORGANIZATION OF CORY•FlliL COUNTY 21

Two hundred yards southeast of the house was the spring. Some old-time worn trails 8till lead down to it. Nort11- west of the house is an old graveyard. There are about a score of graves there, s.mong ·them is the grave of Crockett King's mother-tha wife of Billy King. To show the estimat~ placed on land values when Mr. Tyler and Mr. King came here in the early days we quote the following: "The King headright was near the Tyler headright. The white had been pursued by Indians and Mr. King told some of the boys he would sell out for a bit (12¼c) an acre. 0. T. Tyler was born :.-at Brookfield, Mass., in 1810, in 1834 he came to Texas, then a Mexican province. In 1849 he settled in Coryell County and ,vhen the county was organized he became th~ first Chief Justice, and front that circumstance was called Judge, although he was never a lawyer. It was due to the vigorous agitation of 0. T. Tyler that Coryell Cottnty was organized and be has been referred to as the "Father of Coryell County." Later Mr. Tyler served his county and district as a Representative in the State Legislature. CORYELL · COUNT\.

The county as organzed, embrace an area of 1,085 square miles in central Texas. It was originally a part of Milam County and later a part of Bell until organized as a separate county. The county was named for James C-0ryell. In 1864 when the county was organized, it llad a population of 250 or 300 people, including a number 0f slaves and some free negroes. The 1980 census showed a population of approximately 20,000 or about 18.4 per square mile. It also showed the wealth of the county to be approximately $80,000,000. The county is located in that part of Texas known as the Grand Prairie. The terrain is a rolling prairie cut by deep valleys. The prairies present a table land top­ ping a rugged hill country. The prairies belong to the rich black lime lands, while the valleys are composed of black land, and riah loamy alluvial and sandy soils. Cot­ ton, corn, and grain are the predominating crops while all fruits and vegetables known to the temperate climates do well in their, proper location in the valleys. This is said to• be the greatest oat producing· county in the state. It is the ideal country for poultry, stock raising, and general farming. Gatesville, with nearly 8,000 popu­ lation, is one of the leading produce markets in the state. The school and church organizations are as good as can be found. There are but few high schools in the state that are as highly rated at the Gatesville School. The beautiful scenic hills and valleys of this county present a park-like view from whatever angle they are viewed, in.terspersed with blue cedared hills and ranges spreading and reachina- into the blue distance and wide valleys dotted with farms. Every landscape inspires beauty. The location of every farm hou!e is romantic. It ia a poetic land with mush: and harmony expressed in every line. DEVELOPMENT OF CORYELL COUNTY 23

In the beginning, this county had its trials, the first few years were marked with recurring droughts of severe intensity. Crops were ·short and the people suf­ fered for bread stuffs, however, the range was good, and livestock did well and ga~e -w·as plentiful, so that the hardy pioneers with great fortitude maintained their homes. The Civil War came on and Coi-yell County offered her full quota of volunteers for the Confederate armies. The ranchmen furnished large numbers of horses and beeves for the armies of the South. Compa11ies of men went to the armies, and other companies were sent to protectea the frontier from raiding Comanches. The close of the war found the flower of our young manhood had been laid to rest on the b'lttle fields of the South, but the homes had been maintained by the heroic women and children who had been left behind. From 1865 to about 1880 saw a period of lawless­ ness prevail in this state that more or less affected Cory­ ell County during the same period. Ruffians flocked to Texas. The cattle business reached its zenith on the open range. Contending big cattle interests, disputing 'the ria-hts of the range, brought on range wars, during which time some outfits were entirely killed out or driven out. There was another element of free-hooters-the cattle and horse rustlers that stole stock from all who were not aligned with them. Out. of this condition grew a period of mob rule during. which time there was no effective law. Each clan was a law unto itself. It thus came about that mob violence dispatched the lives of many outlaws and some good citizens. One old pioneer relateti that "We buckled on our 2ix shoote1·s as often as we drew on our boots. There was no law." In 1872 a new courthouse w&s built, accupying' the site of the p1·esent building, but it was to be occupied for only about twenty-five ye11rs, for in 1897 the present %4 HISTORY oF·coRYELL COUNTY courthouse was erected. By this time outlawry had been stamped out and Coryell County, whose foundations had been laid by a people of sterling worth, was again a pro­ gressive, peaceful community. An event of great in1portance to CoryeII County was the entrance of the St. L. S. W. Railway in 1882. At first, a narrow guage line was operated. It, however, en­ abled the people of the county to obtain speedier deliver­ ies of consignments of freight. Previous to 1882 goods had been freighted into the county _by wagon trains. In earlier years by ex teams from as far away as the Gulf ports. As the railroads penetrated farther into Texas, shipping terminals for rail- 1·oads were Bremond, Waco, and other points along the advancing railroad lines, so that with each extension of rail transportation the wagon haul for goods to Coryell County was shortened. With the coming of the railroad the old team freia-hting and stage lines were relegated to the past. A. short time after the Cotton Belt line reached- Gates,ille, the G. C. & S. F. crossed the south­ west corner -of the county aud Copperas Cove became a railroad town. In this outline of ·Coryell County history we deem it quite appropriate to quote a part of Judge Robt. W. Brown's report as of July, 1935, at the time he resigned the office of county Judge, sho\\·ing the further progress and latest developments in roads, public building and ex­ cellent financial condition of the county. He says, in part: "We have bought Right-of-Way and had three highway construction jobs. Our jail was condemned a.nd we built one of the best modern small jails in Texas. We have built lateral roads and our Commissioners have • graveled more roads than was ever done in twice the GATESVILLE AND -~JTS GROWTH 25 time. In the early days of the depression I was the first judge in Texas to advocate and put through a gen­ eral reduction of tax values. Our county owes less than it has owed for fifty years. All our funds except one road beat is on a cash basis. There are only six small counties in Texas that owe less money. Considering our population and tax values, there is no county in Texas in better financial condition.~,

GATESVILLE

At the time the county ,vas organized, March 15, 1854, the court ordered that $25.00 be borrowed to secure stationery. This was at Fort Gates. The court then ad­ journed to meet again on May 5th. In the meantime Herman Aiken had been ordel'·ed to make a survey to find the center of Coryell County. When on May 5th court convened they received the field notes of Aiken's survey, which showed the center of the county to be near the present location of the city of Gatesville. Nominations for county seat sites were received and on May 27th an election was held to select the site. Three sites ,vere submitted. The site near R. G. Grant's mill which was located on what is now known as Still House Creek ,vas chosen. Mr. Grant was to give $2000 and the valuation of the buildings proposed to be given by J. D. Giddings should Fort Gates be chosen. Also a public square and t,venty-five acres of land. This sit~ ,vas on the C. Casanoba survey. Fort Gates was scarcely considered. The Grant site having received thirty-seven 28 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY

of the total votes. The County Clerk was ordered to move his office to the proposed new town of Gatesville. The first jail was built on the site occupied by the old jail, half a block north of the square. It was known as the "Red Log Jail." Is cost the county $4000, and it was built by J. H. Crisn1an. It now stands out of the city Hmits of Gatesville. T. B. Pollard, District Clerk, called the first Grand Jury March 1, 1866. The first court was called June 16, 1866. The first courthouse waa a cheap one-story struc­ ture, and was where the old Atkinson Hotel once stood. It was ordered in 1856, and was to be 40x50 feet, and 25 feet high. The state tax for the years 1855-7 inclusive \Vere set aside to defray the expense. R. B. Wells wa.s the contractor. Building committee was J. A. Haynes, D. A. Hammack, C. C. Templeton, L. M:. Robinson, and James Hicks. Since the state tax for 1855 was set aside, to­ gether with the state tax of '56 and '57, and the Court­ house was not ordered until 1856. It appeared there must have been legislative action, 1855 setting aside the state­ tax for the three years indicated. The Post Office was established July 13, 1864. James C. Newton was the first post master. The J. H. Collard plan was adopted in the summer of 1864. The plan had four streets, those on the four sides of the square, which bore the names North, South, East, and West, Streets. On the East side of the square R. G. Grant, who donated the site, and who had a grist and lumber mill, and a whisky still, in the vicinity, established in 1858, <.,pened the first store. Soon Fort Gates was deserted and her people eagerly securing homes and business site~ in Gatesville. Saunders J. Wilkerson and T. H. Robinson established stores. Tb.e first buildings were constructed of boards and Grant's sawmill business boomed. R. G. Grant and Daniel Moore were bla~ksmiths and set up GATESVILLE A~D ITS GRO\YTH 27

shops in Gatesville. The country was receiving an influx of settlers Mnd trade demands brought more merchants, Squires and Camp, Brinkman, Atkinson, and others. S. H. Lutterloh c.stablished a hotel, and one of Gatesville's streets is now named for him. The largest store opened before the Civil War was of Norris and Givard's. This was the Col. H. M. Norris, who commanded most of the frontier rang­ ers and troops during the Indian W8rs of the late '50's ~tnd '60's. With the coming the of Civil War, Gatesville did remarkably well to exist at all. The '60's and '70's were trying times so that by 1880 the town had a population of only 434 people. A new light, ho,vever, ,vas dawning; 1."umors of a railroad were stirring the people to action. That action resulted in Gatesville offering the Railroad Co. a bonus of approximately $30,000 and lands for terni­ nals. By 1883 the Cotton Belt s:1stem was well establish­ ed and Gatesville had become the trading center of a vast territory. The rapidly increasing population called for new additions. In 1882 ,vas the Lutterloh addition. About the same time the Chrisman addition near the depot can1e in. Then came the Pidcoke and Franks additions. In the 11ames of these new additions the memory of illustrous pioneers is preserved. The census of 1890 showed a pop­ ulation of 1,375. The to,vn was first incorporated in the early 70's. J. H. Crisman, I. B. Hardy, J. S. GlPnn, J. A. Fellrath, H. N. Atkinson, W. E. Brown, C. P. White, ,vere among the early mayors of Gatesville. The to,vn was financially strong and the first banks ,vere as follows. First National, organized Sept. 2, 1889. J. R. Raby, W. S. Jenkins, S. J. Aling·s, and others. Alings as President. Its capital was $60,000. The City National Banks was organized Feb. 17, 1892 by J. R. Saunders. The first artesian water was found at Gatesville 28 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY

in June 1891. The city now has its waterworks and has one of the most complete systems, and one of the most abundant supplies of the purest water. Gatesville very early became a newspaper town. In 1858 the Frontiersman was established by Mr. R. B. Wells, and edited at various times. In 1882-6 Dr. J. B. Cranfill edited the Advance. Later came the Star Forura and the Gatesville Messenger which became one paper and now runs under the head of Gatesville Messenger and Star Forum. The latest journalistic effort was the Coryell County News. Prominent an1ong newspaper me·o was Davis Hall, who was succeeded on the Messenger by Pat Holt. We have discussed the early churches of Coryell County in a separate chapter and will not dwell upon them here. The first schools established in the county were at Fort Gates. A Mr. J. C. Russell established the school and w.sis the county's first teacher. At Gatesville a man named Pollard taught a school in a log house down near the Leon RivJ!r. This was the first school at Gatesvill,!. The next school was sponsored by that enterprising man, R. G. Grant, who gave a tract of land, and established ~, school near the present. school property. It was taught by a Mr. Wood. The early schools were supported by private sub­ ~cription. The public school did not organize in the coun­ ty until 1872. There are certain features of Gatesville's history that deserve special treatment. Those features we have 1reated in other chapters, read in connection with this narrative furnish a comprehensive account of Gatesville's history up to the 1890's. · Modern Gatesville will be re­ viewed in a later chapter. Gatesville was 1, tough frontier town according to Dr. J. B. Cranfill, whom we quote briefly: "When l established the Gatesville Advance June 7, 1882, there ERA O·F LA \\·LESSNESS 29 were 200 voters in town, ten saloons, and a varying con­ tingent of nomadic criminals. . Baptists and Methodists had good houses of worship and regular services. A lit­ tle while before my advent into Gatesville journalism, a mob had murdered nine men· in a jail and the same thing had been duplicated at Belton, fifty miles away. "Practically from the beg·inning of my weekly journalistic career I ,vas at grips with the saloons, and the mob, and the twain were one flesh. They first cajoled, then howled, and then threatened. During my first six months, a mob in a Coryell County village n1urdered three 1nen in one night. "I had a double action Colt .45 with a sawed off barrel made at the factory. I put it in my pocket as regularly as I put on my trousers." This is Dr. Cranfill'~ picture of Gatesville in the 80's.

AN ERA OF LAWLESSNESS

During the Civil War a character named Frank Horko lived in Coryell County. He refused to take service vdth either the soldiers going in to the war or with rang­ <:'rs going out to protect the frontier. He began marauding on the ~ettlements, stealing horses and cattle. The settlers began trying to capture him. He moved into the west and htdlt a cabin near one of the ranches where he aligned hin1self with a small band of Indians. A party of rangers, of which Alfred Kerby was a member, located him near his eabin. He mounted his horse and rode for the brush and succeeded in making his escape. Alfred Kerby gave chase but, rid- 30 HISTORY JF CORYELL COUNTY ing a horse which he had unhitched from the plow a few days before, was unable to get in gunshot of the fleeing outlaw. In 1865 a scout on King's n1ountain observed a blue column of smoke rising out of the timber on a branch to the east. The scout. worked his way near enough· to the camp fire to identity· Frank Horko and his Indian confederates. The scout immediately reported to Sheriff J. C. Haynes of Gatesville. A posse was organized and Ho1·ko ,vas captured and incarcerated in th£- county jail. Th,? settlers, however, did not propose risking the pris<'ner a chance to escape. That night a inob surrounded the jail. secured the prisoner and at sunrise his body was found near town hanging to a live oak lin1b. This did not stop outlawry. Brigands infested th9 country for years until the life of no man nor his live­ stock were safe. During this period a trio of men, Reu­

1 ben Queen, Bill Leverett and Andy Wolff, conceived th ) idea of not waiting on the .law for protection, for the law enforcement duthorities were helpless. They, with otherR, banded themselves together under a bond to allow no out­ law to escape when once sighted.

Hanging of Leeper and Powell Mr. Will C. Kellum of Jonesboro is in possession of a booklet, "The History of a Crime,'' which relates the story of the Leeper and Pnwell casP.. It is upon this booklet and information from local people that this story is based. In the latter part of 1889 while returning to Gates­ ville with a wagon train of supplies, John T. Matthes an

-· died about thirty-six hours after being shot. On the day of the crime Bob Wells met two men near the scene of the crime, and lir. Harvey sent \\'Ord to Sheriff Lanham that these men were the guilty part­ ies. Thus when Mr. Wells saw Jim Leeper on the street~ of Gatesville on the day following· the crime, he was able to point him out to the officers as one of the guilty men. J-'eeper was placed under arrest and told officers that Pow­ ell was at the Buster plac~ near Turners ville. Sheriff Lanham and a posse left immediately for Turnersvi HP. and found Powell in bed suffering· from a blow acress the head, administered by Mr. Harvey with butt end of an ox­ ,vhip. He, too, was placed under arrest th us the guilty men were in the custody of the officers within a day of the commission of the crime. The examining trial was not long in taking place. A chain of evieence, which left no doubt in the mind of anyone, had been welded link by link. The men were charged with murder in the first deg-ree. On February 6, 1890, about t,vo months after the murder, the case was called for trial. J. L. Crain, attor­ ney for the defense, made a motion for continuance to the next term of court. The motion ,vas overrule:d and Leep­ er and Po,vell \Vere arrainged for trial. The trial did not take long in the presentation of evidence and it was not long before a jury of twelve n1en returned a verdict of "We, the jury, find the defendants 1rnilty of first degree murder and assess their punishrrient at death." It was destined that a sn1ooth )earned lawyer, murh 1noney and a mother's efforts \Vere to postpone the execu­ tion of the sentence. A motion for a new trial was file

Finally, on July 23, 1891, Jim Leeper and Ed Pow­ ell stood before Judge C. K. Bell in open court for the purpose of having sentence passed. The room brooded in a still hush, guards were placed over the courtroom i,o avoid mob action, the calm, serene voice of the j ndge is­ ~ued in measured tones into the deathly stillness, "Jim Leeper, Ed Powell, is there anything you would say be­ fore sentence of death is passed upon you." 'I'here was no response. "I sentence you to be hanged, by the neck, at public execution, on Satu1·day, August 29, until you are dead." J. L. Crain, attorney for the defense, Powell'~ mother and Leeper's brothe1·, seeing that methods al­ ready used had not stayed the hand~ of Justice, sought to prevent sentence being executed by resorting to un­ ethical methods. Albert Leeper, brother of the convicte=J, was found guilty of attempting to bribe a witness and sent to the penitentiary for two years. Crain circulated rumors affecting the character of t,vo local people and caused a citizen of Copperas Cove, a member of the trial jury, to be anrested. These things were done to create a doubt in the mind of the Governor of Texas. Mrs. Pow­ ell was accused of having atte1npted to bribe Sheriff Hammack to leave the key in the door of the jail. Every effort was expended in an attempt. to free the condemned. Governor J. S. Hogg \\1as appealed to to grant a reprieve and in view of the doubt created by the efforts of Crain he granted this reprieve, delaying the time of the execution to September 29, 1891. A vast throng gathered in Gatesville on September 29, 1891, one year, ten months and twelve days after the murder of John T. Matthes. It was the last earthly day for the murderers. Soon afternoon the crowd began to center around the old jail, which now stands back of the First National Bank building. Guards with rifles and shot guns ,vere stationed on the ro0fs of the buildings CEDAR POSTS A~D BARBWIRE 33

adjacent to the twin scaffold which had been specially erected for the occasion. As _two o'clock, the hour for the execution, drew near a hush fell on the multitude. 'fhere was a nervous, expectant tension. People who did not want to see the actual· hanging \\,,ere glued in their tracks by some inexplicable force. The condemned men mounted the steps to the scafford with a guard at either laand. Their hands ,vere tied together. Their feet were bound. Black hoods were drawn over their heads. The noose was placed around their necks. The last words were said. As the town clock struck the hour of two, Sheriff John Hammack tripped the trap that sent the two mur­ derers to death. As tile bodies swayed in the breeze, the crowd started leaving, regretful that two young men had to die, but convinced that justice had been done. It was ~everal years after the hanging before there was a mur­ der in Coryell County.

CEDAR POSTS AND BARBWIRE

A "bob-wire fence," posts broken off and out o'f line, some leaning this way and some that, wire sagging, broken and on the ground, is a very prosaic sight. Maybe it is forty, fifty, or more years since that fence was built. If so, it was here in the "fast and furious" days when the open range cattle business was being broken up, and when men were contending savagely for the grass. The open range cattle industry reached its zenith during the fifteen years following the Civil War. There ,vere small fields fenced only with stone, or rails, or per- 34 HISTORY OF C·ORYEL:. COUNTY

haps brush. The grass was free to any man who could acquire cattle. Many men, or companies of men, had large herds grazing on the open range- Each year would see greac herds belonging to son1e 1aron grouped together and started north to the markets eight-hundred or a thousand miles away. · These vast herds were in charge of cowboys, boot­ ed and spurred and with long leather leggings called "chaps" and with six shooters swung to their belts. The cowboys were organized and under the leadership of a man called "trail boss," who was in command of the outfit.· The herds were driven over a route that offered grass and water. Sometimes it required six months to ''graze" the herd to its destination in Kansas, Nebraska, or Wyoming. The various routes north took their names from the trail bosses or cattlemen who first routed herds that way. At the time of which ,ve write most of the cattl~ being driven north from Coryell, were grazed up the Chisolm. Trail.'. A trail was not a narrow path across the country, but a strip of country varying from a few miles to many miles in width which offered grass and water enough to carry the herd through in marketable condition. All the way up the long trail the herd drivers had to contend with the physical forces of nature and with cattle rustlers- Sometimes cattle rustlers. would purposely stampede a herd and in the confusion of re-grouping the cattle would succeed in driving off many head. Some"'! 1,imes this resulted in fierce battles between the owner's outfit and the rustlers. Many a bloody conflict occurred along the historic (lld cowtrails. Many a cowboy who was killed in these .battles was wrapped in his blanket and buried on the wide, wide, prairies far from any human habitation. • In the open-range days there was another form of CEDAR POSTS A~,D BARBWIRE 3,5 i-ustling that, according to the law of the range, was sanctioned for a time by all- oldtime cowmen. All un­ branded cattle were known a.c; "mavericks" and any man had the right to brand "m~vericks" wherever found. This form of rustling became so common that · farmers who turned their calves out to grass at night often found them bearing a neighbor's brand next morning. The big cow outfits \\?ere particularly industrious in this unethical practice. Enmities grew up- Killings followed. From that organized clans and mob violence ruled. Many men ,vere shot on hanged on trees by opposing clans. The n1en hanged were not all criminals. A man could be too successful, or could learn to much of the operations on the range, and he was liable to become a marked man. The above condition continued until a pall of gloom hung over the whole country. Every man's life was in his own hands. To have a gun and .be "quick on the draw" was all important. The law enforcement bodies we1·e powerless- Then something happened that had a very potent influence to bring about law and order: The barbwire fence appeared. About 1880 a cheap fencing material in the form of barbed wire appeared in the markets. It was immed­ iately adopted by the small fa1111er to enclose his lands as a protection to his crops against the range herds and to confine his own small herds. There was a fencing boom. Every cedarbreak became a center of activity as men began cutting cedar to supply the demand for fe-n-­ eing posts. Within a few years the country was literal­ ly netted with wire fences. The small £armer and the legitimate cowman had found protection against horse thieves and cattle rustlers. Thousands of miles of fences had been strung. Rustlers could not easily shift cattle across the country. They had to follow prescribed routes of travel and were more easily apprehended- People of 38 HIS'I·ORY OF OORYELJL COUNTY vision could begin to predict an end to the reign of law­ lessness. Then a new crime against society, against which there was no protecting law, arose. The disgruntled thieving element could see their doom, but they had . no jdea of submitting tamely to the innovation of barbed wire fences. In order to hamper the improvement of farms and check the legitimate cown1an a fence-cutting program was instituted. A farmer or a ranchman many a time lay down to rest at night to awake next morning and find his wire fences cut between posts ; and probably many of his neighbors fences were also cut. Yet barbed wire and fence posts had sounded the death knell to horse thieving and cattle rustling. There were a few more mobbings, this time by the forces of la,v and order. Once a thief was captured he was hun·ied to a tree, where one end of a rope \\·as tied about bis neck and the other end to a branch of the tree, and the horse suddenly whipped fn;,m under tf\e condemned man and he was left swing­ ing-. Drastic measures, to be sure, but necessary. Many a gnarled old oak in Coryell County sadly moans the dirge of the outlaw. Lawlessness was dying hard, but surely dying. The Lepslature enacted laws making fence cutting a felony. Cattle rustling and horse theiving were also felonies. It became harder for a horse thief to evade the consequences of the law than it was for a man who had killed another in a gun battle. By the late '80's Coryell County was settling to a more moral, stable, condition. Her people had waged re­ lentless war on crime, had built churches, and schools and organized efficient law enforcement bodies. The climax of crime was reached in the murder that brought about • the hanging of Powell and Leeper in 1891. Now let us pay a tribute to the barbed wire fence, EARLY CHURCHES IN CORYELL COUNTY 37 for it was one of the most potent influence to blot crime out of the county. The influence of Coryell County cedar posts had spread over the country from the Trinity River to the Plains. For haif a century cedar merchants have plied their trade at Moffatt, Leon Junction and other points so that a constant return of 1·evenue enriches our county. Franklin Avenue, in Waco, was once paved with cedar blocks sawed at I~on Junction. The blocks were about six inches long, and were pla~ed on end along the street. On top of the blocks sand was placed to fill all vacant space- Upon this crude pavement the traffic was turned. It was the most abominable pavement ever Jaid down.

EARLY CHURCHES IN CORYELL COUNTY

Wherever white settlers have established homes in the early developmnt of a country, ministers of the Gos­ pel were among the vanguard. History records many in­ stances where ministers led congregations to new places and environments for the sole purpose of gaining freedon1 of worship. Ministers have pioneered into many strange lands and among strange people who skope alien tongues for the sake of the Gospel which has bolstered civilization for nearly two-thousand years. They have been in the van­ guard since the day Stephen was stoned to death in tha 38 WSTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY streets of Jerusalem. No family, no community, no na­ tion of people have ever risen in the cultural scale highe-r than their spiritual ideals. With the pioneers who early settled Coryell County we would expect to find preachers in the front ranks ; coming along with the good people and the bad people. We would expect to find a high per cent of religious peo­ ple, and this was true, for we find whenever a settle­ ment was made it was only a short time until a church was. organized, and spiritual development sprung up along with industrial development.

Fi1·st Church Organized in County; June 1854 Five years after Fort Gates was established a Mis­ sionary Baptist Church was organized at Coryell Church• That was the first church organizeti in Coryell County. Miss Minnie Boyd of Oglesby furnishes the follow­ ing historic item, taken from the records of Coryell Mi,­ sionary Baptist Church. It had been generally accepted that this church was constituted in 1858, but this authen­ ic record show• the date to be a year later. We here quote Miss Boyd, "Coryell Church was constituted in June, 1854, by S. J. Bryon and 10h11 Clabough. Charter members were, Green Fra~, Adeliee Frank, J. J. Green, Sarah Green, James Mcllhaney, Jane Mcllhaney, Catherine Jones, Martha Hicks, June Gibson, Jesse Lee, Margaret Lee, Margaret Mcllhaney, Manerva Mcllhaney, Jesse Jones and Naomi Hall• John Clabaugh was the first pastor. This was the first church orga~iized in Coryell County, and the church has had a continuous existence and active part in church history since that summer day in 1854 when a few settlers perfected tne organization." In 1858 Rev. Clabaugh organized a Baptist Church in Gatesville. Robert Barnard was the first to preach there in 1854, and M~ Wells had organized a Sunday School. EARLY CHCRCHES Il\~ CORYELL COt:XTY :~~

•.,irst Methodist Church in Coryell County To give a more elaborate picture of the difficultiec; early church people had to m~et we ,vill give an account of the Station Creek Methodist Church which was organ-• ized in 1855. In the 1920's I wrote Mrs. 0. F- Davenport of Weatherford, who was then more than 90 years old, being a charter n1ember of the Station Creek Church, to give me a list of charter members. Mrs. Davenport furnished the following information: "The org·anization was per­ fected in the home of Chas. Karnes, by a Rev. Hurbert. This home stood on land now owned by R~ H- Alexander and the house was built of logs. The congregation having no building, met alternately at the homes of the mera­ bers until they were able to erect a small building on the hill west of Station Creek and near the present road. This f.i.rst Methodist Church had for charter members 'Gran • • wishes may attend church any week in the year. EARLY CHURCHES I~ CORYELL COU~TY 41

Eagle Spring's Gretna Green About a mile north of the once notable old village of Eagle Springs stands a housP that once was the horne of the Baptist Divine John McClain. This is a typical v1ell-to-do farm house of pioneer times. In its time it v,as a modern, well built house as compared with other pioneer houses of the same settlement. In the years prior to the Civil War this fine old man settled at this place, and started building a home and rearing a family. The little farm spread to the rear of the house, a~d was coursed by a stream of clear flowing water whie.h nourished the fields as the old man's spirituality nourish­ ed the souls of the pioneer people living around Eagle Springs. In front of the house standf a number of fine old Arbor Vitae trees that were planted by the owner of the house. Since the evergreen is the symbol of eternity, so are these trees a fit symbol of the old man's devotion to the spreading of the Gospel an1ong the people \\,,ho lived within reach of this place. Rev. McClain was a noted preacher, and many arCJ the older people who acknowledge the influence of tliis man upon their spiritual lives.

Eagle Springs Baptist Church On November 6th, 1858, Rev. McClain organized the first Baptist Church at Eagle Springs. He also be• came its first pastor. This church had as charter mem-­ hers the following names ; J. H. Estep, Nancy Estep, E. A. Culpepper, Tobitha Culpepper, Wyatt Hall, Naoma Hall, F. M. Grimes, Elmira Grimes, Mary A. Grimes, Daniel Jones, Serepta Hall. Upon the founding· of McGregor, thi"' church was moved to that place. For the information contained in this paragraph, I am indebted to Miss Mary Jones of Moody, who is a grar.ddaug·h ter of the Daniel Jones and Mary A. Grimes, who are listed above as char­ ter members of the first Baptist Church at Eagle Springs. 42 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY

Next to the founding of the church, the thing that made this man and place most famous, was love-lorn youth, seeking a minister to speak the words that would make them man and wife sought out this place. The runaways came horse-back, in buggies, rain or shine, in the daytime or night, as expediency demanded. These run­ aways however, were a very small minority of the great number for whom the marriage ceremony was performed. He was called to go long distances, all over the country, to tie the hymenial knot. It is said that this devoted old minister officiated at more than 1500 weddiI1gs. At any rate we have heard many of the older settlers declare thiR number to his credit. The large family of sons and daughters reared here went into the world imbued with the spirit of their pro­ genitor. Jim Pennington of O~lesby relates that in the re­ construction days that followed the Civil War that MT. McClain was so plain in his denunciation of evil practices that he incurred the wrath of the horse rustling, cow theiving, plunct.ering el~ment to the extent that his life was. sought by those men. McClain hid out many a day and night in order to avoid his would-be-slayers. This condition necessitated th~t someone supply him with vic­ tuals. Mrs. McClain heroically assumed this responsibility. At night she would steal from the home and meet her husband on the prairie, supplying him with such comforts as were necessary for his sustenance during the time he ,vas in hiding. Jim Pennington's mother was a neighbor to the McClains and left with her children this story of the devotion of Mrs. McClain to her husband. Church going in those days, also had its dangers. Jim Pennington related another story of the times when church goers carried their pistols and rifles. The country was infested with th~ves and lawless characters, but 11eople were determined to have preaching, if they had to EARLY CHURCHES IN CORYE1LL COUNTY 43 guard the church with guns while the preacher dispensed the gospel. At a meeting in progress on Station Creek, th~ people tethered their horses to trees and posts near th~ church. w. M. Oglesby and C~pt. Davenport were seated near a window, their rifles close at hand, when a horse­ man rode out of the brush and circled the group of horses hitched to the posts and trees. Capt. Davenport recognized the man as one of the horse rustlers of th~ country. He quietly reached for his rifle, took aim and fired. The horseman reeled in the saddle. Capt. Bill Oglesby remarked "hit 'im by G<'d." The rider was only wounded and escaped to the brush. After the excitement had died down, preaching was resumed• The foregoing bits of history of the early days in the Eagle Springs community were furnished by the pio­ neers and children of pioneers who were intimately asso­ ciated with the early settlers and their trials. PLACE NAMES

Leon River, the largest stream of Coryell County, was named for Alonze de Leon, who was sent to Texas by the Viceroy of Mexico, to exterminate the French set­ tlement at Fort St. Louis on Mntagor.da Bay. This was in the 1680's of the 17th century. Chas. H. and Geo. W. Straw, in 1875 moved from McLennan County to Coryell and bought. the old Cox Mill, which had been established by J. M. Cox, who settled the adjacent land in 1856. The Straws made extensive im­ provements, and had a fine flour mill and carried a large stock of general merchandise. The place became known as Straw's Mill. John H. Hurst, born Nov. 25, 1829, in Indiana, settled in Lampasas County in 1856, removed to Hurst Springs in Coryell County in 1865. Here he built a rock house and ere,:ted a steam gin. Hence the name Hurst Springs. H. B. Pidcoke, born in England in 1824, came to the Cowhouse valley in 1850, where he established a ranch. Later came the village that bears his name. There is also a part of the City of Gatesville known as the Pid­ coke addition. J. R. Pancake, born in Virginia in Jan., 1836, came to Coryell County in 1858 and established the Pancake ranch. He also established a genernl merchandise store and cotton gin. The Pancake and Bobb cattle business grew to large proportions, but ,vith the settlement of the eountry, ranching gave way to agriculture. W. M. Oglesby, for whom the town of Oglesby is named, came to CoryeJl Creek in 1853 and established a 1·anch. He later exchanged his holdings on Coryell Creek ORIGIN OF PLACE NAMES 45

for the J. N. Davidson survey on the prairie. When the Cotton Belt R. R. entered the county in 1882, Mr. Oglesby gave the townsite and the town, founded on the site of the old village of Hill Top, was named Oglesby in honor of the donor of the land for the townsite. Whitson was named for "old Grandpa Whitson,·' who came there before railroads entered Central Texas :Lnd established a cotton gin and flour mill. Mr. Joe Lynn also had a cotton gin, and Mr. Haynes had a gen­ eral merchandise business. Car,t. Ellison Burch at one time had a legalized whiskey still just below Whitson on the spring branch. Whitson was a flourishing pioneer L1.0Wn. A village on Highway 7, a mile west of Coryell Creek, is so named because in the olden days when only horse and ox drawn vehicles were had, it was a hard J)Ull to reach the place from any direction-Pulltight. .Blackfoot (Davidson) school and Blackfoot Moun­ tain are said to be named because a band of Blackfoot Indians once camped there. The:: are located on the road Jeading up Coryell Creek valley from Highway 7. A steep hill on Highway 7, a few miles west of Oglesby, is named for Dr. Ashby v;ho settled a valley farm near this before the Civil War and who died on his farm during the war. Many of his descendants still live in Coryell County. Carter's Peak, a mountain overlooking Coryell Creek valley named for an early pioneer. Shook Crossing-a crossing on Leon River, on land now owned by the Martins who opeued by the Shook brothers about 1865. Ross Crossing-Named for Reuben Ross, who set­ tled a League and a Labor of land there in 1854. He owned slaves and opened a large plantation. His descen­ dants, the Greens, Rosses, Walt,n.·s, R.nd Caseys, still own most of the land. Four generations of the Ross' descen- 46 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY dents have successfully lived on ihe land. Mr. Ross was born in Kentucky, brought with him a Jove for fine h.orses. It is said that he furnished many horses for use in the Confederate army. In 1839, Major Erath found many wild Mexican hogs on a creek that rises in Coryell County, so he named it Hog Creek. Neff Spring, source of Horse Creek, is named for­ Noah Neff who settled there in 1855. 11his pioneer was Paf Neff'~ father. The Neffs o\\·n the land now. This river, the Cow House, flows through the weste1·n section of Cc.ryeU County and was named Cow House be­ cause there were many rock shelters and caves in which range cattle sheltered during inr.lement weather. Cave Creek, a small creek of the Bosque drainage system, so named because of the many caves in the lime­ stone bluffs along its course. Famed as the scene of Joe Sappington's stories. Owl Creek, as the name sugg<'sts, was named for the many wood owls found there. There is a fine valley or farming 1Bnd. The adjoining hillf' are covered with forests of cedar. Bertrand Branch, a tributary of Coryell Creek, named for Thomas Bertrand, ,vbo settled in the county in 1853. King's Mountain was named for Crockett King who was among the first white men to establish in the Leon Country. The mountain is near Leon Junction. Lookout Peak or Signal Mountain is a round peak standing to the left of Highway 36 on the way from Gatesville to Jonesboro. It is visible for long distances up or down Leon Valley. It is said to have been a fire signal station for Indians ·uving in the Leon River Coun­ try. Lime City is a.village near Og]esby, whose popula­ tion is engaged in the manufacture of lime. The lime pro- ORIGIN OF I-'LA'CE NAMES 47 duced at this place is nationally known for its high chem­ ical qualities, and is extensively nsed in the treatment of oil, gasoline, and water. Evant is located near the west line of Coryell County, on Highway 7. It was founded in 1879 by Evant Brooks. An excellent school, a newRpaper, and severaJ business establishments, with several churches adorn this E:xcellent c.ommunity. The Grove is an inland viJlage on the highlands be­ tween Owl Creek and the Leon River. It has an excel­ lent school, cotton gin, churches, and a number of busi­ ness establishments. Named for the groves of fine trees that were there when the .first settlements were made. This village is in the heart of a fine stock raising and ngricultural country. Landford's Cave is in the valley near Evant, named :r or Perry Landford, whu established a ranch there in pio­ neer days. Turnover was named by a story to the effect that when the soldiers were moving "·est from Fort Gates that some of the supply wagons were turned over at this place, and it has been called Turnover since that time. Osage, an inland village near the east line of Coryell County, quite probable received its name from the Osage Indians, or the Bois' d Arc trees found there by pioneers sometimes called Osage Orange. Caufield Mountain, the church ~nd school are nam­ ed for Tom Caufield, who came to this county in the early 50's. He ,vas at one time Justice of the Peace at Gatesville. Nathan Halbert came to the Leon River in the early 50's and took a grant of land across the river from what is now Mother Neff Park. He opened a ford crossing at that place which has since born~ his name. Collard's Bluff-a place of wonderful scenic beauty on Station Creek. Named for Rev. J. H. Collard, who in 4.8 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY the 50's owned the land. Rev. Collard was one of the first members of Station Creek Methodist Church organ­ ized in 1855. Blackwell's Branch, a mile west of Oglesby, a small wet-weather creek that flows under Highway 7. On this creek Dick Blackwell settled in the 50's. During the Civil War Dick served with the Rangers on the frontier. When he moved away in later years, he left his name permanent­ ly attached to that small stream. Flat-a rural village in Coryell County, was so named for a flat strip of country near by, that was cover­ ed with mesquite timber. At first it was "Mesquite Flat," but about 1895 a post office was established. It wa., found that Texas already had a post office named Mes­ quite Flat, so the name became just Flat. Mound, a village on the Cotton Belt R. R. in Leon Bottom. Old White Mound School stood half a mile away when the railroad was built into the county. A post office was established and named "Mound" in memory of the old pioneer school. Seattle: • A village located on Owl Creek in the Southern part of Coryell County·. When the people peti­ tioned for a post office, M1·. W. A. U1nberhagan owned a cotton gin and rto1·e there, according to Mr. E. F. Miller, who was born there forty-five years ago. Mr. Umberha­ gan took a leading r·ole in securing a post office there, and was first post master, and offered the name because he liked it. . Pearl Once Named Wayback Through Error In collabo1·ation with C. J. Shook, Bill Gasoway liv­ ed in what is now known as Cunningham Cove in the winter of 1866-67. Laura· Gasf1·way and Dick Williams were married in that cove in 1869. Mrs. \Villiams now resides at Pearl. In tbe summer of 1870, John Roe built the first log house in the cove. Aunt Susan Roe, hid ORIGIN OF PLACE NAMES 49 widow, is 96 yea.rs of age and no,v resides at Starr, Mills County. The first church, which ,vas Methodist, was organized in thP home of J. W. Shook in 1876. Originally the post office was Wayback. When the petition for a post office was· sent to the Department the name applied for was S,vayback, for Swayback Mountain, but through an error in spelling the name, the new post office was authorized as Wsyback until 1890. Henry Reavis was first post master. E. P. Davenport and Ben Asbury freighted from Wayback to antl from Waco. When they registered in Waco hotels, they alwayJ signed as from Pearl, because they did not like the name Wayback. In 1890 J. H. Har­ rison, E. P. Davenport and Ben Asbury petitioned for a ehange of the name of the post office to Pearl. The name was granted, and continues as Pearl. Parks Blackstock built a horse power gin in 1880. It was a 60 saw gin and was fed by hand. In 1878 Mr. Blackstock grew -a wheat crop. There were no threshers. A large place on a smooth stone was cleaned of all rub­ ble. The sheaves of wheat were placed on the stone floor and horses ridden over until the wheat was thresh­ ed. The chaff was then winded out by shoveling the wheat up and letting the wind drift the chaff away. Mi~s Jennie Roberts taught the first school in a log house, 1>uncheon floor, and split logs fo:r. benches. She now lives in Burleson County and is Mrs. Tom Davenport. Later F. M. Long taught school there and always \\'ore his six­ shooter or brought his Winchester. Fauntleroy Crossing: Fauntleroy Crossing, on th~ .Leon River near GatesviJle, was named for Colonel F. W. Fauntleroy, who served in the l\Iexican War of 1846-48, and later in the 50's settled near Gatesville. He \\'as the first District prosecuting attorney that Coryell County was called upon to furnish. His service was with the Court of 1856. 60 H·ISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY

Bro,vn's Creek: John M. Brown came to Coryell County in 1855 and settled on the creek that now bears his name. When the Civil War started, he entered the Confederate army and was promoted to Captain. He cap­ tured the outlaw Frank Horko (or Horcow) who depredat­ ed upon Coryell County settlers during the war. Horko was soon afterv;ards lynched. Jonesboro: Jonesboro was named for William I.J .. Jones, who came to Texas in 1839. He served in th'! Mexican War of 1846-48. In 1866 he came to Coryell County and set np a saw and grist mill, where Jonesboro is now located. The post office bore the name "Jones Mill," but a wholesale shipping clerk billed some goods to Jonesboro. The people liked the name and adopted it as the name of their town. Langford's Cove: It was named for Asa Lang­ ford who established a ranch there in 1854. A small creek near Evant is also named for Mr. Langford. James Carter also established an extensive homestead there in 1854. J. F. Basham also settled near Evant in 1854. Gholsoi\s Gap: On Highway 66, south of Evant, named for Frank Gholson who established hin1self there in 1855. He later did ranching on a large scale. It is said that he at one time owned 5000 cattle. Cherry Bluff: A massivE: limestone bluff over­ looking Coryell Creek from the \\·est. On the steep hill­ sides below, the wild chP,rry gro,vs in profusion. Hence the name, Cherry Bluff. Schley: A school communjty in this county, named for a prominent pioneer family. Nathaglin Creek: Natha11·1in Creek received its name fron1 an amusing .circumstance. A long time ago young people went to church and to parties on horseback. On their way to church one dny, a young couple rode down to the crossing on this creek. The young man~s horse crossed; the young lady's leaped the stream, throw- Ht:GH SHERIDAX, 50LDIER AND PIONEER 51 ing her off intc the ·water. The young man dismounted &nd ran to his lady love's assistance, crying out "Honey. are you hurt?" Honey was not hurt, but since fermented honey makes a kind of vinegar coloquially called "Nathag­ lin" or "Nathaglum,'' the people pron1ptly gave the name to the creek. Tama: Tama was named for Miss Tama Alex­ ander, according to Mr. W. E. Stewart of Copperas Cove. The girl's father, A. B. Alexander, had a store there about 1898, but after,vards moved away.

HUGH SHERIDAN --- On Janua1·y 11, 1822, Hugh Sheridan was born in Ireland. He came to America in 1846, at the time the United States '\\'as entering the war with Mexico. Irish­ man, that he was, found him looking for a fight, and he volunteer~d and served through under General Winfield Scott. When the war ended, Sheridan was among the troops sent by the United State~ to found a line of forts across the frontier, from the Rio Grande River to the Red River, to protect the frontier from the Indians. When Fort Gates was established in October, 1849, Sheridan was there. When the post was evacuated in March, 1852, he was left in r,harge of 1nilita1·y stores. He trained vol­ unteers going into the Confederate Army. He served on the frontier from 1863-1865. lie settled at Fort Gates and reared a family, and a number of his descend en ts no,v live in the county. He probably was the first white man to come and remain in the county. PIONEER INDUSTRIES

Time stalks forward with stately and measured tread, reeling the plodding years from his distaff; tramp ... ing down old industries and institutions, preparing the way for new ones. So has he dealt with Coryell County. For thirty-five or forty years, the manufacturing of lu1n­ ber was an important business to the pioneers of this county. The lumber was massive and heavy. If anyone wanted 4x4 studs, they v1ere sawed in full dimension, as were all measures. The house mentioned above had ash noors, six by ten inch oak for rafter plates on twelve by twelve inch oak sills, and all studs and rafters were four by four oak. All ends and joints were mortised in and keyed with wooden pins. A ~aw mill was set up at Gatesville by Mr. Gra-nt in 1854. A Mr. Cox had a ~i1.wmill at the place now known as Straw's Mill, . and there ,vere others. These mills continued to operate until in the '80's after the rail­ road penetrated the county to Gatesvilie. A.hove the mouth of Coryell Creek, on the Martin farm is the re­ mains of one old sawmill, llnd bel'Jw the Neff farm is the remains of the last sawmill oper2ted in the county. It was owned by Ben Naler and \Vas closed down in the late '90's. Before the Civil War a flour and grist mill was established by R. S. (Uncle Bob) Rogers on the west bank of the Cow House river, three and a half miles above Pidcoke. The river was damn1ed to furnish power to operate the mill. At one time in early days people cama from a distance of fifty to one hundred miles to get their PIO~EER r~DFSTRIES 53 flour made by l\tlr. Rogers. High \\·ater washed away the greater part of the mill in 1906, after which operation was discontinued. Before the railroa':, penetrated tl~e county, builders who desired fine fini~hing lumber ,vould have it freighted in by wagon frcm east Texas. For c1binet and furniture 1naking, black walnut \\'Us sa,ved 2.t the local mills. Besides lun1bering there \\·ere n1any other indus­ tries carried on to supply the needs of the settlers. There was tonning, lime burning, brick making, and charcoal burning. The leather processed was used for the making of boots, shoes, harness, saddle~. and stout belts that sup­ ported the ever p1·esent pistol or six-shooter. Lime \Vas needed for the ,nixing of mortar for the erection of ston~ chin1neys and ,tone houses, and for the mixing of sand and small stones and gravel to make what ,vas called conc1ete hou~!es. 1'he old ruin of the Tyler home, near l\tlound, i~ a fine example of the concrete liouse as built by the early pion~ers. To mnnuft1.cture the lime, suitable stone was found. At a loc·nt1on convenient to the ~tone a layer of logs was placed, on th is H layer of limestone, then more wood and ~tone in alte1·11ctting layers. Around and on, this mass \\~as piled H largt~ pile of logs, and the whole fired. When the \\'ood burned out a good quality of Iin1e had been burned in th is crude manner. ( ~harcoaJ burning wag al~o important as late as the '80'~ or '90's. "fhe early smithy required coal so the locnJ eharcoal burne1· furnished it. <,edar or ehn was the f avo1·itc wood for burning coa1. (;ood wood ,vas cut in P..bout cord lengths. This ,va~ stood tog·ether in the f 01·m of a grain shock. Thia \\'Hs fired, hut in the process it \\'as covered with dirt to 11revent a blazing fire. The fire was closely etched and kept in a 8mo1

CORYELL COUNTY AUTHORS

We said somewhere that no people rose, in the cul­ tural scale, higher than their spiritual ideal. Thru all the dark days of the pioneering period there was a smoth­ ered spirituality striving to find expression, among the early settlers of Coryell County.. Finally, after the gloom of the first fifty years of the county's history, there blossomed as fine expression of the spiritual as may be found in any county the size and population of Coryell. By this \\'e mean the fine. expression~ of the nationally known literary men, poets, philosophers and the like, that sprung from Coryell. pelow we are pointing, briefly to the record of which we are justly proud. CORYELL COUNTY APTHOHS Zi5

We start with Major General Wm. Graves, U. S. A. retired, who had a long military career. He commanded the Amer"ic~an l~xperitionary force~ in Siberia during the World War. His kPen observation and literary works on Eastern A~ia have n1ade h in1 an authority on subjects re­ lating to the Orient. James Britton Cranfill, once a citizen of the county, published the Turnersville Effort, 1881-1882, and Gates­ ville Advance, 1882-1886. He ·was a physician and was ordained a Baptist Minister. He has published and edited many books and papers of relig·ious and historical import­ ance. He championed the cause of prohibition in Coryell County when prohibition was very unpopular. At pre­ sent he is at home in Dallas. Pat Mo1Tis Neff, born near Eag·le Springs on the old Neff homestead, Nov. 26, 1871, was successful as a school teacher, lawyer, speaker of the House in the Texas Legislature, Governor of Texas, President of Baylo1· Uni­ versity, and h&s served on many comrnissions. He i~ a forceful writ.!r. Out in the east side of the county is Cove Creek, famous as the birthplace and boyhood home and setting of Joe Sappington's humor stories. Joe was born there more than 70 years ago. He is more than a humorist. His writings depict boy life, and their hopes and dreams, hates and loves, and fears. His stories, while ludicrous, are very true picture of the lives of some of the people of the hinterlands. Joe Sapping-ton is a true historian. About thirty years ago Joe began applying his vast accum­ ulation of knowledge of rural life to the building of hum­ orous stories. He at once became a f an1ous humorist and has remained so. He is a benefactor of his race, for he has made folks laugh long and heartily. Ernest William Winkler, ,vho wa~ born near The Grove January 21, 1875, grew UJ) on a Coryell County farm. He received instruction in 1nnny 8thoo1s and uni- 56 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY

versities. He has been for many years engaged in com­ piling and arranging historical papers for the State Uni­ versity. Walter Henry Cousins w2s born near Whitson, Au• gust 18, 1879. He grew up t.here and received his ele­ mentary education in the district schools. In 1898 Coryell County was g~tting pretty b~dly crowded for pion~r stock. The Cousins' treked to Haskell County. Walter was a co,vl,oy for several years. He began recording the lore of the range in verse and story. He later became 1t. druggist. He is now owner and publisher of the Souther.n Pharmaceutical Journal, and President of the Cowboys' Reunion, which meets at Stamford. every year. He is a popular Texas poet and humorist. Ina Corrine Brown was born in Gatesville, May 27, 1896. She was the daughter of John Dayton Brown. She graduated from Gatesville High School, and her main con­ cern at the present is for American Race problems. She is the author of several books. Her present address is Nashville, Tenn. Walter ii. Adams, born in Coryell County near Ire­ land, 1897, was the son of f arn1e1· parents. He is a na­ tionally known poet. To Mr. Adams every rural landscape is a poen1. Every rustliµg of the wind is a song. He transforms every kind of scene and landscape to beautiful word pictures. We love our hills and valley more for his being in this county. His book of verse "The Dead LiP. Down" ha~ been read by all English speaking people. Owt,n Friend Watkins, born in Gatesville, April 20, 1884, grew up in Gatesville as other boys, enjoying their boyish fun and frolics. He se1·ved in many capacities in his home town. He studied la"· and ,,·as admitted to th~ bar. He volunteered for Workl service and during the war was promoted to the rank of Car,tain. He is now a lawyer at Mexia. M:r .•Watkins. however, has reached his greatest fame iuJ. poet and playwright. lie is the author CORYELL COU~TY AUTHORS 57 of many popular poems and plays that are nationally known. Lucy Belle Morgan was born. at Bee House in Cory- ell County January 1, 1884. She received instruction frorr. many schools. She is a gifted Uguist, a poet, playwright. and author of "The Way Triun1phant,'' s.nd a number of Spanish 1>lays. Music L'ld song are tht: highest expressions of poetic sentiment. Gatesville is the birthplace of two young men, Murray Kendrick and Lytle Powell, who have mastered poetic expression in these lines. Murray Ken­ drick is American trained and owing to his fine tenor voice, has sung to the most distinguished audiences in America. Powell attained the highest average examina­ tions ever made by any student at the Tobias Mathey School of Piano Forte Music in England. He was then only twenty years of age. Mrs. J. P. Kendrick has done very distinguished service for the history and literary interests of Coryell County. Her extensive collection of historical data, folk­ lore, and songs, are invaluable. She has served as Vice­ President of the Texas Folklore Society. Mrs. Kendrick is widely known for her keen interest along the above lines. All of the fore going writers have attained state wide, nation wide, or international recognition for their literary labors in their chosen fields. This is not all, aa is evidenced by thE:- good poents and other literary ma­ ~erials being produced by the younger writers. Some of the poems by younger writers may not be ll'.echanically correct, but we prefer to judge them by the high moral, and spiritual values the authorc.-; convey. FORT GATES When the United ----States Government, at the close of the Mexican War, 1846-1848, took charge of the vast Texas frontier, reaching from the Rio Grande to the Red River, that teJ.Titory was without military protection, save for n few scattered companies of Texas Rangers. U. S.. troops returning from the Mexican War were sent to establish a line of forts to protect the advancing settle­ ments along thf' entire frontier.. Onl! of the forts was established on the Leon River, in what was then Milam County, but was later oragnized as Coryell County. It is very difficult to gather authenic data on Fort Gates. To illustrate, we will quote from a letter written to the author, March 19, 1935: War Department, The Adjutant General's Office, Washington, D. C. · "A complete history of Fort Gates, Texas, has not been compiled by this department. However, the records show that Fort Gates, Texas, \\·as situated on the north bank of the Leon River above Coryell's Creek, north of Austin, Texas. It was established October 26, 1849. It was named in honor of Major C. R. Gates, 4th United States Infantry. It was evacuated in March, 1852. The post was authorized on September 2, 1849 per orders No. 62, 8th. Military Department." Signed, James F. McKinley, Maj !lr General, Th.e Adjutant General. The foregoing. wa.CJ all the inforn1ation we could obtain from the ·war Department, but following that FORT GATES 59 thread, we later located Mis5 Arrie Barrett, San Angelo, who contributed the valuable history which we append. The information is confirmea by a letter of Acting Adju­ tant General Lutz Wahl, on April 6, 1925: "On October 26, 1849, Brevet Colonel W. R. Mont­ gomery, with t,v·o companies ·of the Eighth Infantry, founded Fort Gates on the Leon River, at a distance of seventy-five miles from Austin. Troops ren1ained there until March, 1852. The imn1ediate site \\7as on the north bank of the Leon River, a tributary of the Brazos, and on the edge of a post oak grove, which extended from the garrison to the 1iver. Assistant ~urgeon Johns said that the post oak woods were in such po~ition as to fail to check the wind from the north in the winter, and yet it would obstruct .the breezes in the summer. He consider­ ed that the locatio11 on the southern banks of river would be much more satisfactory. People suffered severely from intermittent fevers. "The officers' quarters were frame buildings cover­ ed with clapboards; those for Jaundres~es and muleteers were about the sRme. The remainder of th.t, buildings were frame with upright posts, pointed out and placed in the ground. Hired labor erected several of the buildings. In 1851, the buildings were as follows: four officers' quarters, two for company quarters, three for laundresses, one for muletee1·s and employees, one hospital, one stable, one forage house, two storehouses, one guardhouse, .OD(:~ blacksmith shop, and one unfinished quarters for a third company. This included 18 buildings. "Stone for buildings was abundant, so stone fire­ places were built for cooking and heating. Lumber cost $25.00 for one thousand feet ~t Bastrop. Government teams transported it to the post. Troops, with public teams, hauled good water fro1n a stream about. three hundred feet from the post. It was necessary to pay from $2.00 to $3.00 per cord for fuel. In 1850, the price 80 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY of corn was $1.75 per bushel, the high price being due to the great distance. Good grass was close by, but there was difficulty in getting hay. Beef was scarce, so it was necessary to pay six cent3 a pound for it. At about this time, R. G. Grant anived witl1 a herd of 700 cattle and 200 hogs, the first herd brought to the fort. "Fort Gates was on the road Jeading from Austin to Fort Graham. A branch extended out to Fort Cror­ han1. Often rising streains would delay trains for days from Austin to Fort Gates. There were no bridges over the streams except across the Brazos, at Waco village, and at Fort Graham. During 1850 supplies carried by con­ tractors, went from Washington on the Brazos, one hun­ dred and forty miles distance, and Houston, two hundred and twenty miles away. After 1861, supplies, drawn by public teams, went from Indianola, which was on the coast. "November 29, 1849. Fort Gates. Bvt. Lt. Col. W. R. Montgomery, commanding two companies, 8th. In­ fantry, 6 com. officers, 76 men, one officer absent, 3 men absent. total 86. "1850, Fort Gates. Bvt. Lt. Col. W. R. Montgom­ ery, commanding two companies there, 8th. Infantry, Companies D. aud J•. "November 26, 1851. Fo1t Gates, Bvt. Lt. Col. C. A. Waite. Two companies, 8th Infantry, 8 officers pre­ s~nt, 118 men present, 1 officer absent, 6 men abseDt. Tot.I 128 officers and men." Above we have given the historic data, available to us, on Fort Gates. At the time Fort Gates ,vas founded, Col. Robert E. Lee was commander ~f the 8i!t Military Department, ,vhich embraced the Mexican border, and the task of establishing a chain of forts from the Rio Grande River to the Red River, to protect the advancing ,vhite settlers against Indians. FORT GATES 81 Col. Albert Sydney Johnston "'as one time pay­ master for the soldiers occupying the frontier forts. The intrepid Ben McCulloch also had much service on this frontier. All were later distinguished Confederate Gen­ erals. Among the officers of the frontier service, and who , later distinguished themselve~ as TJnion Generals dur- ing the Civil War were Phil Sheridan, who said he would "rather be in hell than in ·rexas," Geo. A. Thomas and Geo. B. McLennon were also there. It is quite probable that this sextet of famous generals had visited Fort Gates. Near the site of the old fort is a small burying ground where the soldiers, who came so long ago to pro­ tect our frontier, are buried. Over the other "'&Y, but near by, is the Sheridan burial ground, where members of that family arc buried. A Centennial Monument, made of granite, four feet high, thirty inches wide, twelve inches thick, with bronze plaque, containing a brief history of the Fort, will be set up there in 1936, authorized by the State Historical Commission. LEGENDS OF FORT GATES --- Aside from the historical interest we have of Fo1-t Gates, there has g!'own up around it a number of roman­ tic legends. These may or may not have a historical value. At any rate, they may serve as a barometer to guage the minds of a people fh•ed by the glitter and jin­ gle of gold. Just at the time the events narrated in thesa legends were taking shape, the world was all excited over the discovtlry of gold in California, and at that time gold­ hungry men could imagine anything. The Army Payroll There is prevalent in Coryell County, a legend to the affect that one army ·payroll of gold, is buried along ~e old military road between Fort Gates and the place where the fOad crossed the Bosque River at Clifton. Tni9 legend had its origin in the fact that a payroll was once stolen from Col. A. S. Johnston while he was paymaster for the soldiers, who garrisoned the frontier forts. It be­ came necessary for Col. Johnston to go before a military court and prove his innocence. A Gold Hant From the earliest settlement of Coryell County, her population has furnished their quota of lost mine and bur­ ied treasure hunters. The gold fever, which the discovery of gold in California in 1849 created, spread all over the world. Many expeditions were organized in Texas for the purpoRe of crossing the tre.ckless, waterless, sand wastes, and mountain wilderness of the west to find the coveted metal. • In 1853 a Captain Stewart raised a company of 106 men at Fort Gates, to go to the Itio Grande River in LEGENDS OF FORT GATES 63 search of an old Spanish Fort named Sicora. They cross­ ed the waterless wastes of sand beyond Sweetwater, and on to the Guadaloupe Mountains, but the viscisitudes of the pitiless desert climate, and the watchful energy of the Apache Indians, the most t·elentless of all tribes, decimated their numbers until the band was broken up. On one occasion they left their ws.gons 200 miles behind near the Pecos River. Upon returning to the wagons, they found that they had been burned. They found the site of the Fort Sicora, which appeared to have once been populous, and which Stewart had visited in 1849, and reported plenty of gold was to be found there. There was no town. The entire population, according to legion, had been killed by Indians, but the legend of gold clung to the place. After intense suffering from hunger and thirst, and finding no gold, a part of the company started to re­ turn to the setilements. Captain Ste'\\·art and a scouting party rode too far in advance of the company and were killed at a water hole near the Pecos River. Some mem­ bers of the company finally reached home, among them was Calvin McSpadden, who for many years was a prom­ inent citizen of Bosque County, and who related this story to the author in 1905. A subsequent expedition in 1858 likewise failed to find the legendary gold, having had to turn back from that vast wilderness adjoining the Pecos t,n both the east and weRt, on account of severe drought. The country was w·aterless. The Forty-niners An old lege.nd that has stam.ped itself into the minds of the people of Cave Creek and of Coryell County, is to the cff ect that about the time Fort Gates was founded, a party 0£ prospectors, returning from California to the east, pitched camp one night on Cow House River. They prepared thPir meal of d1-ied .buffalo meat, blaclc coffee, and a short supply of bread, and s,vapped yarns of 64 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY adventure, nnd then lay do,vn for the night. During the night, ,i band of robbers assailed them and murdered the entire company. Th(: robbers then took the prospectors goJd and other valuables, and prepared to make thei~ escape. The next day they met a company of Texas Rangers, who defeated them in battle. The out­ iaws escaped to the hills. It is said that they took refuge in a cave :n the Coryell or Cave Creek hills. Here they stayed in hiding· until danger ot pursuit by the Rangers was over. The story goes that the robbers remained in the cave most c,f the ,vinter. They had an Indian scout and hunter, who they sent out to get supplies. Once the In­ dian remained out too long to suit the outlaws, so they suspected he was treacherous. A second time he remain­ ed out too long, so he was killed and buried in a position that he appeared to be looking under a large boulder, which lay in the mouth of a cave, where legend says, :i. vast treasure is buried. Once a member of the party was seriously ill. A runner was,sent to Fort Gates for a doctor. The doctor was found and started to administer to the sick one. A short dis~nce from the Fort the doctor was blindfold ed. He was taken about ten miles facing a northwest wind. The party dismounted. He was let down a shaft, into a Jarge vault or room, where his blinds were removed. To his astonishment, he beheld a vast amount of gold bullion. He attended to the sick as best he could. When time came for the doctor to go, he was u1·ged to take what­ ever he would of the treasure. It is said that not a mite was taken by the tfoctor. He vras then blindfolded again and returned to Fort Gates. The story was not revealed for a long time after,vard. The doctor could never locate the cave after his blindfolded visit there. This legend ltas become associated with the Pan­ cake mine. Local legend says that a cave, a f e,v hundred COPPERAS COVE, CITY OF FIVE HILLS 65 yards from the mine, is the place ,vhere the treasure wa..s hidden by the robbers. In the archeological research made in the vicinity of the mine, Mr. Pancake found at the entrance to a cave, a large boulder. On excavation, a skull was found. face looki.ng under the boulder. Asso­ ciated with this were fourteen others. However, the arti­ facts found belong~d to the N~olithic Stone Age-mortars, pestles, and other finished flints.

J >-< l ·---- ' ►◄ f

COPPERAS COVE, CITY OF FIVE HILLS

Copperas Cove is located in the southern extremity of the county on State Highway 58, and on the Sante Fe Railway extending from Temple to Brownwood. According to Mr. Jesse Cle~ents, who was born seventy-eight years ago at Old Peary, near where Moody is now located, tho basin in which the town is situated, has been known as Coppe1·as Cove from the earliest com­ ing of white people. The location is a large natural basin sun·ounded by five prominent hills with a gap outlet be­ tween each two of them. Five outlets, and five hills­ the city of five hills. When stock raising was the only industry, this basin was the spring roundup ground for a large terri­ tery. Here, separating nnd branding were worked· out. Southwest of the present townsite, a large spring of cop-­ paras water flo,ved out of a cave in the hillside. This was the camp grouud f'or the cow outfits, and the spring gave the name for the basin, and later the town. 88 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY In 1871, Jesse M. Clements bought a vast track of land here and drove a herd of cattle from Smith County to stock it. Others who soon settled here were Joe Bul­ lock in the early 1870's. Brown Gilmore came in 1878 and H. K. Clem in 1878. On Mr. Clement's first settJing, he fenced a farn1 of 160 acres \\ith stone. He built a home of rawhide lumber, which was sawed at a mill on the Lampasas River. The first post office was in the farm home of a Mr. Ogletree, who lived two miles south of the present town­ site. The place was known in 1880 as Ogletree. In 1881 the postoffice wa.r.i moved to the present townsite, and took the name it now bears. In 1880 the Grange Store, a farmers cooperative, was established near the present school site on the then Lampasas and Belton road. This was a stage line relay station. The Santa Fe Railway entered the town in 1882. Mr. J. M. Clements gave land for the townsite, school grounds, ·and the land for the Methodist Chureh property in 1888. Mr. Clements stipulated that the railway com­ pany parcef out the business and resident lots alternately to the c.ompany and the public. The Methodist establish­ ed the first church in 1888. The Baptist first held ser­ vices in the school house. Sam Fulsom and Prof. Gibson were early school teachers. W. E. Benneit established the first newspaper in the 1880's. In 1885, 0. N. Guthrie built a flour mill, which' has long since closed. J. M. Clements stablished the first general store in Copperas Cove. Jim Bolden established in business in the year 1881. E. R. Goodson and wife located at Copperas Cove in 1882. They owned the first hotel, and also a lumber yard. Mr. Goodson's activities were many. He built the first cotton gin, one 60-saw stand and was powered by a traction steam engine. Mr. Goodson once represented COPPERAS cov~, CITY OF FIVE HILLS 67 the District in the State Legislature. T. A. Whitsett was a merchant for many years. Dr. Arnold located here in 1878 and a short time afterward cam\! Dr. Evans. The religious spirit of the Copperas Cove people is represented by four church organizations, each with a large membership. The Baptist worship in a large stone edifice. The Methodist have a substantial brick building on stone f ounda.tion. The German Methodist and Christ­ ian Chureh each own theil· own church edifices., The business structures of the town are above the average for small towns. Most of them are constructed of native stone of a good quality, and some have brick fronts. A list of the leading businesses of the town will include the following: Dr. Lee Bivens, physician; Jim Bell, druggist; Jesse Bell, gTocer; Norman and Schneider, general merchandise; B. S. Hubby, druggist; Wendland, grain and feed; Jesse Cle1nents, insurance; and several other smaller firms. The local newspaper, the Crony, is in its fourteenth year, and is owned and published by Mrs. Elizabeth Smylie. The publlc school has an enrollment of about 250 pupils and a faculty of eight teachers. A music studio and teacher is a part of the school system. The school has partial state affiliation, which will probably be com­ pleted this year. Two buses bring pupils in from out­ lying districts. Fun1ishing a pioneer color of the early days as well as histo1·ical interest, we quote herewith part of a letter written by the father of Jesse Clements in 1860 to a friend living in L6uisiana: "Sept. 13, 1860; a five inch snow in winte1· of 1859-60. Peach trees five years old frozen ; snow lay on ground five weeks, f oUowed by in­ tense drouth. Wheat and corn $2.00 per bushel, but plentiful. Bread grains enough to supply immediate needs. 68 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY In six months 85 persons (black and white) have been hung as horse thieves and abolitionists. On trip to Waco Mill passed one man hanging to tree, and at mill mob waB flogging another.''

----J ---◄ ) •>-<•

TURNERSVILLE

This town, although located in the extreme north part of the county, far from a railway or a trunk line highway, is distinguished for its progressive citizenship, its churches, schools, club life, and civic improvement, "·hich give it a social life comparable to towns of several times its size. This is a post Civil War town, although there were many settlements there in the 1850's. The big spring at Turnersville was originally known as Buchannan Sp1ing, because Green Buchannan had a cow ranch there. When the two Primitive Baptist elders ":Vere attacked by Indians near old Rainy Creek Church iu 1860, it was to this that the wounded elder Griffith ,v·\s taken, and here he died a few days later. Elder White \Vas found dead near where they met the Indians. Mr. Buchannan gathered a posse and pursued the Indians until the trail was lost. • It ,vas near Turnersvil1e that some of the rr•.ost thrilling incidents oJ the range wars occu:r.red. In thi8 territory, the Boor-Pancake interests, and the Standefer inte1·ests contended fiercely fol' control of the re..nge. lt TURNEI:S VILLE 69

,vas near here thnt John Paheake settled in 1858 and 1'uilt up the largest cow ranch this county ever had. At one time it was fourteen miles across the Pancake ranch. 8oon after the Civil War, Pancake swapped for 640 acres C\f land worth $1.00 per acre. In payment he gave year­ lings worth $25.00 per head .. When the notorious Bill Boob was preparing to Jeave Coryell Couuty, he wanted a horse that he could ,Iepend on. John Pancake had the horse, a blue-gray, named "Grayback". Bobb gave John Pancake twenty cows and calves, three good mules, 2 pet bear, and $300 for the hors~. Up\Jn this trusted horse, Bobb left Coryell. Near Turnersville in 1889 the \\·ounded Jim Leeper who was later hang·ed with Ed Po,vell at Gatesville, was captured by a posse under Sheriff Lanham. In 1881-1882 Dr. J. B. Cranfill published the "Tur­ nersville Effort." That was the beginning of a journalis­ tic career which -had brought an erstwhile citizen of that town undying fame. Among other prominent pioneers were Wm. Young, Fred Foote, Lige Wallace, Mr. Hun1cs, and many other pioneers who had vision and foresight. From that vision and foresight we have the Cente11nial TumersviJle of today, with its Humes', Tharps', Wallaces', 1-1.obins', Footes', Harrells', and others, still forging ahead, looking :forward to a better Turnersville of the future. Out of that vision has grown the present Turnersville School. A magnificient building where thirteen teachers are instructing the young schoolastics in educational lines. The school has a P.-T. A. and home economics unit effi­ ciently organized. Five big school busses of the latest model deliver the children from the outlying districti. This school is fully affiliated. The Methodist, Baptist and Presbyterian denomina­ tions have well organized churches, with excellent bulld­ ings. All auxiliary units of these churches are working for the more complete unification of church intereJtH. 70 HISTORY 01' CORYELL COUNTY Mrs. Plezna Garren is postmistress. Mr. Basham carries a full line of druggists supplies; however, the country is so healthful, that at present tht;re is no resident doctor. Cleve Basham owns and operates a blacksmith shop, ,vhile E. 0. Harrell is the cotton gin owner and operator. The spiritual life of the people of this rural town is un­ excelled by that of any town. Although far from a railway, there is no agrict•l tural comodity that cannot find a ready market in Lhis town. Near Turnersville the first settlers were Saunders, l\fayfield, W. E. Young, Bill Bobb, W E. Johnston. (jn Cave Creek, M. A. Britian, Judge Mccutchen, Andy Graves. Mrs. W. K. Sadler, who was born there in 1856, John I. Lam. Davy and Alex Pinkerton, John Beene, who was killed by Indians, Jack Carter and others settled. Ne1trly all families used a tin plate with a twiated rag with tallow on it for a lamp. The end hung above the edge of the plate, lighted. B1·ead was cooked in an oven. Meat was cooked by hanging it in the fire place. Most people' went t.o church . in ox wagons. The church ,vas some neighbor's house or an arbor. We had no farms of large ar1·eage. Our cattle drifted south w1th the northers in winter,· and we had to hunt them in spr!ug. The songs WP. sang were "Jesus Lover of My Sou]," "Hark From the Tomb the Doleful Sound," "Happy Days When Jesus Wash~ My Sins Away," "By the Grace of God I'll Meet You," and "0 Happy are They Who their Savior Obey." The Primitive Baptists used to come many miles to worship in ox wagons, or to see their sick. The first set­ tlers were fine people, .as a rule. They stood for right and taught their children to be courteous to all. From 1865-1872 one was rarely out of sight of droves of cattle on •the trail to Kansas City, at that tirne LE VITA 71 the greatest cattle market in the world. This infonna­ tion ia from Mr. Billie Sadler, who was born in this coun­ ty about 80 years ago.

LEVITA

Wf:! find that the early settlements of this place were typical of most of the early towns of Coryell County. In 1856 John L. Montgomery settled on Plum Creek· whence he moved from Fort Gates. He was born in Tennessee, Oct. 12, 1812, and was one of the first commissioners of Coryell County. A son, Baylor Mont­ gomery, now resides near here. Other pioneers were the Simpsons, who had large land interests. And there w·~s Alex Mayhew, Maxwell, Rutherford and French. The community was originally known as Simpson­ ville, but when the post office was established it was found that Texas already had a post office of that nan,e, and there was a request for other names. Mr. Cha1·1ie Jaye offered Le,9ita, which was his mother's christian name. That name was accepted and in it we have p1•e• served the name of a pioneer mother. Mr. Jaye's fathar came here from Illinois and was a physician. Mrs. Mollie Coleman, who came here in 1877, say Mr. Charlie Haye was Levita'-s first postmaster, ana served as such for 20 years. When the railroad came, Levita was on Plum Creek, and had the following business establishments·: two gen­ eral stores operated by Walter Miles and Mrs. D. E. Grif• fin. Two blacksmith shops, owned by Charlie ColemS1n, and Mr. C. P. Mayes, a drug store, owned by Dr. W. c~ Ament, which all 1,romptly moved to the railroad. In the pi.oneer days a man named Hatton owned a sawmill at old J-'evita. Mr. Hatton at that time lived on the place now owned by Mrs. Mary E. Fields, who is 72 HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY the contributor of the historic information here narrat~d. Logs were hauled to this mill from the Leon River. A Mr. Friend first ('Wned all the land in that community and sold to the Simpsons. A neat stone tomb, under a live oak, once marked his gr~ve, but the tomb is now partly to:rn away. Levita once boasted a flour mill. It was owned by Mr. Tom Harris, who is a present day merchant of Levita. The same Mr. Hatton who ·owned the sawmill manufactur­ ed haw hide hottorn chairs for which he found a ready sale among the picneers. The land upon which Mrs. Fields hon1e is ht1ilt was once occupied by Indians. A camp, many stonP.-age artifacts have been found there.·

IRELAND To quote Mr. Grubb: "The little town was first call­ ed Lanham for Governor Lanhan1, but the postoffice of Lanhan objected to taking the name of their town. The yew to,~'n was then named for another gover­ nor, and the official name becan1e Ireland.

EWING Ewing ,vas named by the promoters of the Te111ple ~orthwestern Rail1Nay Co., the company that made an abortive attempt to build a railway from Temple to Gat·.~s­ ville in 1910, according to Mr. M. E. Powell. The origin of the name was ~ot known to Mr. Powell.

RUTH AND BOAZ Ruth and Boaz are bibieal names, according to l\'lr. Ben Morrison, when the two villages were founded in 1885. A very reHj'ious old gentleman living near sug­ gested the nan1es. PURMtmLA. OQLESBY '11 PURMELA Purmela is located on the prairie between Plum Creek and Cow House River, a short distance north of Highway 7. Good schools, churches, and fine community r.ooperation are characteristics of her people. The name had its origin ·in both romance and error. A bachelor named Martin Drennon, founder of the town, and owner of the first store there, loved a young Jady named Furmella, whom he ardently wooed. Failing to win her affections, he thought to perpetuat,e her name in the name of the village he founded. The post office de­ partment was petitioned \\·ith the nan1e Furmela, but by error the name was returned Purmela, and the place has since born the nan1e. The diss.ppointed Mr. Drennon sold his property and moved to another state.

< : •· )

OGLESBY This progressive Coryell County town is located near the east line of the county on the Cotton Belt Rail­ way and on Highway No. 7. It has a population of approx­ imately 500 people. It is surrounded by one of the richest agricultural districts in the county. J. N. Davidson built the first home here, on a sur­ vey that now beart his name. That was in 1854. An aged boisd'arc tree near the Jim McKelvain home marks the site of this first home. About the time Wyatt Hall settled on what is known us the Wyatt Hall survey south of town. On Blackwell's Branch Dick Blackwell and the Land­ ford brothers established homes. Down on Station Creek 14 HISTORY- OF CORYELL C'OU~TY Charles Karnes established in 1853; Pat Morris in 1854; Thomas Rucker in 1856; A. P. Pennington in 1866; Juan Lewis in 1870; and other, came later. Mr. Dav;,ison traded hi;,. lands to William Oglesby for the latter's ranch on Coryell Creek. Mr. Oglesby at once began ranching and farn• ing- on his newly acquired lands. The country was then open range, fenced only with rails. Up to the con1ing of barbea wire and the railroad, the country in prnximity to Oglesby ·was the scene of en­ actment of some of the most tragic killings connected ,vith the old cattle feuds. In 1882 the Cotton Belt railway reached Oglesby's ranch. Mr. Oglesby donated land for a to,vnsite, and the name of the place \\"as changed from Hilltop to its pres­ ent name. M. B. Hitt bears the distinction of having been the first merchant, the first railway sation agent, and the first postmastf'r. There ,vas a school at Rock Springs, a mile from the new to,vn. The Baptist, Methodist, Prilnitive Baptist, and Dis­ ciples of Cl\rist all soon had church established. About the ~ ear 1900 an excellent stone school building was erected in the to,vn. Early physicians here were D. M. Jordan, now de­ ceased, C. M. Moore, and later F. C. Green and D. C. Ho~ man, the latter two being natives· of this county. In the 1890's and later, ihe town has had such business men as J. C. Stockbtu·s(er, Sam Kester, Eph Pennington, B. A. McKelvan and others. Men no,v in business are T. P. Rucker, I,. A. Woods, munager for J. D. Mann, Alex Ba­ ker, manager for Lee Hardwar~ Co., R. S. Lewis, D. W. Jones, Alton Dalton, and several gas and oil stations. M. V. Dalton is Justice· of the Peace, and John Crouch is Constable. Alex Moore, who spent twenty-seven years at Boone's lime plant,• is operating a restaurant, and Melvin Dixon a grocery store. OGLESBY The organiz&tions of worship are as follows: The Methodist, who have an excellent building; the Missionary Baptist, who also have a large church building; and both divisions of the Primitive Baptist have buildings. Oglesby Public Schools Oglesby is pround of her schools. Two excellent buildings, one stone and the other brick, having a total of ten class rooms, ,vith stage and auditorium. Approximately three hundred pupils are instructed here. The grounds are kept in good con,~ition, and for the delivery of students from rural district~, two all-steel school buses of the la­ test type are daily used. Th~ school year 1935-36 found the Og·lesby school with twelve teache1·s in its faculty, and another bus added to its transportation unit. Commercial subjects were added to the curriculum and eight ne.\\· typewriters were pur­ chased for the con1mercial depai-tment. As the school term closes, it is found that two and one-half additional units of affiliation have been recommended. This ,vill bring the total to eighteen, which, according to bulletin of the de­ partment of education is he maximum allowed a school of this size. The~ Oglesby school system has been designated a c; the receiving school for the east part of Coryell County. It now affords high school facilities for eight school dis­ tricts, including the original district and the three with v,hich it is consolidated. The p1·ogres~ of his school is in keeping \Vith the pr.ogress of the county as a whole and is a unit of which Coryell may be proud. Industrial development is represented by the F. B. Lam Mill and Elevator and Produce business. In addition he operates one of the best gins in the county. Grantham and Meader own another modern gin. The two gin approxi­ mately 4000 bales of cotton annually. Guy W. Draper is president and Victor Harper is HISTORY OF CORYELL COUNTY cashier of the First National Bank. Miss Ida Stockbur~~ is postmistress, ;..nd her brother John Stockburger is as­ sistant. Oglosby has furnished two Representatives in the Texas Legfa;laiure. J. H. Morris served in the 32nd and the 33rd Legislattn·es and Earl Huddleston the present in­ cumbent having served during the 43rd and 44th Legis­ latures. It might be mentioned here that Mr. Morris was a native of Milam County and Mr. Huddleston of Coryell. Oglesby ~till has a blacksmith fjhop, a business that has been honoted through all ages. This shop is owned and operated by G. R. Green, a native of this community. There is not a vacant business or residence build­ ing in the town, which in its way speaks for the prosper­ ity and progress of the community. Prominent agriculturists are G. I. Green, Calvin Green, R. H. Alexander, Jim McKelvain, Felix A. Morris, Jim Caudle, and others. T. P. Rurker is both farmer and merchant. P. E. Jones is also a successful farmer. I. N. Green of the Ross community is a successful farmer. Harry Johnson is a f arn1er and has served several terms as Coun­ ty Commissioner• of Beat 3•

ROBERT B. WELLS, MINISTER AND LAWYER

Rev. Robert B. Wells was born in Sumpter District, South Carolina, August 27, 1809. He studied law and W$\S admitted to the ba1· in the State of Georgia in 1834, and was admitted t~ the bar in Misr.issippi in 1836, (both of his original license:., to practice law are now in possession ROBERT B. ,v,ELLS, MINISTER AND LAWYER 77 of his grandson, Robt. W. Brown). He later came to Texas and was commissioned a Colonel in the Texas Army. In 1840 he joined the T~xas Confcrence of the Methodist Church and preached at Trinity Mission and other places. In 1847 he founded the Texas Christian Ad­ vocate, which was the first church paper published in Texas; the paper ,vas published at Brenham, Washington County, at that time. In 1854 he moved ,vith his family to Co1·yell Coun­ ty. The diary that he kept on l..is ,vay to Coryell County, and for many y,~Rrs after his arrival, is now in the pos­ session of his dnughter, Mrs. J. D. Brown Sr., and shows the follo,ving facts: He ar1·ived at Fort Gates November 3, 1854, and at Gutesville Nove1uber 7, 1854, driving two oxen nan1ed Buck and Ball. On his arrival at Gatesville he traded his oxen to R. G. G,.·ant on November 27, 1854 for four and three-quarter acres of land and $50.00 in cash or its equivalent. He preached the first sermon ever preached in G.ate3ville and his ,vife, Mary S. Wells, taught the first Sunday 8chool. The exact dates are not shown in the diary, but are recorded between the dates of No­ vember 7, 1854 and February 1855. He founded and pub­ lished "The Ft\>nti~rsman," the first newspaper published in Coryell County. He ,vas one of the charter members of the GatesviJle ~lasonic Lodge No. 197. He married Mary S. Fisher November 30, 1845. She was the daughter of Rev. Orceneth Fisher. Both he and Mrs. Wells '\\·e:a.·e actively connected with organization of the early schools, churches, city and county governments, lodges, and other enterprises which helped to bring cul­ ture and civilization to Gatesville and Coryell County. R. B. Wells died Ht Gates\"ille May 11, 1872, and ?\1ary S. Wells dierl March 27, 1909. They left surviving several children and grandchildren, some of whom now re­ side in Coryell Co~~nty. RICHARD G. GRANT FATHER OF GATESVILLE One of the most conspicuous figures in the early ~ettlement of Coryell County \\1 as Richard G. Grant. He was born in Tennessee, where he early engaged in business, 1noving to Mississippi. In 1848 he n1oved to Red River County, Texas, and a short time later he moved down into Rusk County. In 1850 he moved to Peugh Branch in Coryell County, and a short tin1e aftetward on up to Fort Gates. He bronght the first herds of cattle and hogs to the county, consisting of 700 cattle and 200 hogs. Many of these he sold to the Government for use of the soldierq then stationed at Fort Gates. Mr. Grant (;stablished a trading house near Fort Gates soon after his arrival in the county. In 1853 he moved to what later became known a.~ Stillhouse Creek, within the 'present confines of Gatesville. Here he estab­ lished his trading house and a whisky still. Nearby on the Leon River he built a brush dam to furnish the power ,vith which he operlited a sawmill, which for years did a thriving business. When time came to loc~te and establish a seat for the newly organized county, Mr. Grant's liberal offer of town site and n1oney was accepted, and Gatesville became the county capital. Mr. Grant was liberal in donations for the establishment of a public sctool. The first mercantile business firm in the new tovn1 was that of Alsup and· Grant. The business thrived and Mr. Grant's businec;s activities ,vas extended to other coun­ ties. Mills were established in Bosque and McLennan counties. Merchandise was brought from the coast and centers in East Texas by ox wagon. EARLY PIONEER CUSTOMS

At one time Mr. Grant served Gatesville as Post­ master, and the county as Treasurer. Mr. Grant died in 1858, leaving his name stamped permanently in the annals of Coryell County. Walte1·

Grant, a grandson1 now resides in Gatesville and owns a considerable part of his illustrous Grandfather's estate. It is doubtful whether any other pioneer contributed more to the development of early progress of Coryell County than did R. G. Grant.

EARLY PIONEER CUSTOMS By B. L. MONTGOMERY

{Author'~ Note-The following letter to Mrs. J. P.' Kendrick written by a ma-n who has lived in the County all his llfe ls so Illustrative of the early pioneer customs that we reproduce it Ju'St as written in the words and expressions that lend color to those early day customs.) Dear Mrs. Kendrick, Yours of Ff.b. 19, asking for some pioneer history of Coryell County to h~nd. My father Vias one of the first ~ettlers, coming to Fort Gates in 1853. He lived in Fort Gates until the co&nty was organized in 1854, and in Gates­ ville for several yP.ars He later took up a homestead on Plum Creek near ·where Levit:i is located. I was born there in 1862, the 2nd year of the Civil War. When I WS:l.S 4 years old he mov~d to Camp Branch where Fred Rattan now lives. I can remember that move. This country was a wilderness. The Indians came so HISTORY OF' CORYELL COUNTY

in almost every light moon and stole horses, and after the \\'ar things were ~lemoralized. There \Vas very little set-­ tJed until 1872. There were no churches but there ,vere son1e loc:1I Methodist and Baptist preachers ,vho held services ~•.t times, mostly in private homes, and there ,\·as a Methodist Missionary who lo•:ked after son1e 6 or 8 counties. I can ren1ember my first church service. I think I ,vas 4 years old when a neighbor· took his family and my father's fan1- ily, or part of the1n. I think I \\'as a Ii ltle en1barrassed, as I wasn't used to seeing so n1any people (I think there were 12 or 15 present). After a tim--:? a n1an stood up and \\'as talking. I was sitting by my mother and I began talking too. My 1nother gave me a hard look and told me to hush, &nd I could see she n1eant it, so I hushed, but I couldn't see why I shouldn't talk when the other fellow kept on. I &·uess I believed in personal liberty. We can1e hon1e in the evening the heel f?ies got after the oxen and they ran away. The wagon climbed sapllngs and the driver used some language I hadn't heard before, RO the day was im­ pressed on my mind. Our clbse~t neighbor, Mark Short, vras a ranchmau. lie would round up his cattle in the Spring Rnd brand the calves. As he came in the herd would he more than a mil•] long. It took 8 or 10 hands to hold then1. Most of the cattJe were wild and hard to handle. Mr. Short ,vould herd then1 nnd pen then1 at night for s~veral ,veeks. The cattle l'anged over t,vo 01· three counties. The fir~:t settlers in this seetion hunted for a spring of water and built :near the spring, clearing up a few acres for garden and a :patch of corn. People's hog·s ran at large and would fatten on acorns. These hogs were ·wild ruzorhacks and ,vould dre,-;~ from 125 to 150 poundR at on,~ to two years old. Most people would pen them and fe ~d them on corn for fe\\' weeks as it made the •meat better. The settlers would lJCn EARLY PIO~ r~ER CUSTOMS 81 and milk any cows they could find, and the owners said it 111ade the cows and calves gentler. The grass grew 2 to -1 feet high all over the hills and valleys and was burned off in the spring. No one seen1ed to think it would ever be a farming country, but almost everyone plowed up a few acres for a garden and a corn patch. The corn was used for bread and to feed the saddle horses in winter. About 1868 a log school house was built on Camp Branch. It was cnlled the Montgomery School house and was used for schoo! purposes .for 6 or 8 years and there I got my educ'ltion. The school tern1 was three months long, I think. I attended 4 terms. It was called a subscription school, each pupil paying (in this case) $1.50 per month. My education didn't cost 'l'exas a dime. We never had teach­ ers who could teach arithmet!c further than decimal frac­ tions, and we had 3 to 5 spelling lessons each day. We did not learn much else, but we did learn to spell. The first houses were built of logs. A great many of them "'ere one room, but there were some rather com­ fortable log house8 with 4 to 6 rooms. There were three houses built of lumber in this section, the lumber being hauled by ox wagons from Calvert, which was our nearest railroad town. Our county r.egan to settle pretty fast in 1872. Up to that time there had been no cotton raised here, but after that time we began to raise it. The land ,vas fresh and there were no in$ects to bothe1·, so we raised big crop,:1. One bale per acre was very common. At first ,ve had to haul a long distc:tnce to have it ginned but in a short time ,ve had gins near us. The first gins were 1·un by horse-power, \vith a capacity of from 6 to 8 bales per day. At first ,ve made two trips to haul one bale of seed cotton to the gin. Not that our teams couldn't pull that 1nuch, but our wag­ ons wouldn't hold it, and then some genius thought to make the wagon beds larger. For several years the cotton HT8TOHY OF COH.YELL COUXTY ==~~~-~::------·--··------=-- \Vas marketed at ·w aco. A trip requh·ing 4 or 5 days with ox wagon~ for each. "fhe farms ,vere fenced ,vith rails and rock at first. After the Cotton Belt railroad built to Gatesville our county settled and developed rapidly. The invention and introduction of barbed ,vire and the use of ,vell drills meant a lot to the development of our county.

> )iv,C ' :.-,~ 'j

PRESENT-DAY GATESVILLE Centennial year finds Gatesville a city of approxi­ mately 3000 population, and as ultra modern as any city its size in the State. The city is eighty-two y~ars old, and in that time ha~ gro,vn from the R. G. Grant trading house, roofed with bear skins, to a city with every cou­ venience enjoyed• ~"Y metropolitan communities . The central architectural structure is the County Courthouse, built ;n 1897 of solid native masonry. It ha.-; basement with steam heatjng· plant, and accommodations for every unit of county government, a spacious District Court auditorium. Fireproof vaults protect all county records, and on the dome towering high above the city is the "town clock" that has kept watch for the citizenry for nearly forty years. There is a spacious courthouse lawn, enclosed by a substantial rock ,vall. Upon this Ia,vn there is soon to be erected a granite monument to the memory of James Coryell, for whom the county was named. The shaft of granite will contain a bronze plaque v1ith a brief histo1.·y of Ja1nes Coryell. This is authorized by the State Histo1·ical Commission. The historical 1na1·k­ ers for both Fort Gates and James Coryell have had the PRESENT-DAY OATESVILLE enthusiastic support of the people at large, and especially the Coryell County Centenni2l Committee, heuded by M1·s. T. R. Mears and including F. W. Stra,,1, Jouett Allen (de•• ceased), Mrs. Pearl Brown, Mrs. W. W. Winters of Evant. Later, a High,vay Beautification committee was created ,vith the following personnel:· Mrs. T. R. Mears, chairman, Mrs. Clyde Bailey, Rev M. --~. Chunn, Judge Floyd Zeigler, C. E. Alvis Jr., Mat Jones, .::..nd Mrs. Schloeman. The offi­ cial plants for decorating Coryell County highways were Dlimed cedar, youpon, and redberry bushes. The above co111- mittees have done. much to make Cor.yell County people ~entennial conscious. Gatesville Churches Institutions that have exerted the highest cultural influences on Gatesville ar~ the churches and schools. The First Baptist Church building of Gatesville is one of the highlights of architectural beauty in Texas. Built of in­ terlocking tile, brick, ~nd native stone. Besides an audi­ torium which will seat 1,.000 people, the church has a pas­ ior's study, office, modern kitchen, banquet hall and 80- cial parlors. There are four secondary auditoriums, and.. including the Sun,ia.y School cl!!-ss rooms, there is a total of sixty rooms in the building. The system of indirect lighting iF, used. The building ·was started May 15, 1935, and the dedication took place March 1, 1936. Rev. Clarence Allen Morton is pastor. Tho next outstanding chu!'ch edifice is the Methodist 1'uilding. It is a fi1le brick stru~ture, and has a large aucli­ torium. The building is equipped ""ith all needful conven­ iencies, a kitchen ~:.nd banquet hall. It has a pipe organ, the only one in the county. Rev. M. M. Chunn is pastor. The Presbyterian cong·regation has a substantial church building located on Main street. Rev. James M. McLean is the pastor. The First Christia• Church has. a comfortable fran1e church building on Leon street. The Church of Christ S4 HISTORY O~., COHYg!..L C'OUNTY

\\'orship in thei1· ov.'n building locrlted at the intersection of Tenth and Saunders st ~·ects. All loci"!.I churches haye th~ir eeveral auxilliary or­ g·anizations and a1·e doing· a great ,vo1·k in maintaining the high spiritual ~tandard for ,vhich Gatesville is noted. The colored people of Gatesville maintain t,vo church org·anizations, the Wesley Methodist Church and the Bethlehem Baptist. Gatesville Public School'l The public ~chools of Gatesville ranks as one of the most efficient and con1plete of the to,vn and communities of like size in the State. At the close of the 1935-198,3 school term Gatesville schools ,:11ill h~ve 32~2 units of : f­ filiated credits. s,, efficient and con1plete is the t1·aining· given thf\t grllduntes are permitted to enter any stanrl­ ard college er univf'rsity ,vithout further examination. Mr. Frank L. Willia1nc; is superintendent. As a part of the school building· units is the nc,v, beautiful gyn1nnsium. lt was designed by Doyle Baldridge, built by local contrac­ tors and i.s 111odern .in its class. In 193'> a l::n·ge WPA grant WHJ secured by the cf­ forts of :.1 number of cntcl'prising school patrons, for the purpose of ci-cating· a n1odern athletic field. 'fhe \\'Ork in­ c;ludes a flags tone \va11 . of native rock on the north sich~. An arched ent1·anrc and ticket offir.e; the instullaUon of n 4,800 cnncUe-po\\'Cl' lighting systcn1 is a part of the field. Two 300-foot grand stands, te:n rcws hig·h, ,vill r.eat th~ visitors, and \\1 hen completed the field vdll be one of the best and mo~t · mocl.ern in the State. Local Clubs The club life of Gatesville is prominent and active. There is a club fen· evecry good need and purpose. All of then1 widen the perspective cf their m(;n1bers. Son1e of them adopt reg·u~ar yearly prorrrums of study and iJ1ve~)­ tigation on 1nany 8UBjects of ,~nlighten1nent and training·. Some are n1erely Rocial, f ~r the purpose of creatig· a clo.~cr PRESENT-DAY GATESVILLE 85 fraternal bond. Gatesville 1s the home of the Knox Curtis Post, American Legion. This Post was named for the fir~t Coryell County soldier to fall in battle in the World War. Fraternal Orders: The Masons: Odd Fellows, and the Woodmen of the World, together with their auxiliary units, maintain active organi~ations with a good member­ ship. The Legal Profession The legal profession in Gatesville is represented hy a number of able, conscientious attorneys who are licensed 1-o practice in all the courts. They include District Judge R. B. Cross, County Judge Floyd Zeigler, County Attorney C. E. Alvis Jr., and Attorneys Tom R. Mears, Tom L. Robinson, Harry Flentge·, J. D. Brown Jr., Robt. W. Brown, H. C. Stinnett, and Miller StinnP.tt. Physiciaa1s and Dentists Outstanding· in the medical profE,ssion are Dr. Ralph Bailey, Dr. M. W. Lo,vrey, Dr. T. M. Hall, Dr. H. M. Haynes Dr. Reh Brown, Dr. J. H. Hamilton, Dr. Kermit Jones, Dr. John Thomas Bro,vn. The Chiropi-ator profession inc]ude Dr. Elizabeth Green and Or. I. M. Franks. Resident dentists are Dr. Clyde Bailey and Dr. Otis C. Ray. According to recent announcement Centennial Year will witness the opening of a modern, well equipped hos­ pital about July 1, by Dr. Kermit R. Jones and his brother, Dr. Dean B. Jones of Dallas. Gatesville Financial Institutions The banking institutions include three well managed banks that rode the violent storm of the recent four-year depression without a sign of weakness. The First National has a ct~pital of $100,000 and su:t·­ plus of about same amount. Leake Ayres is president and F. W. St1·aw cash1.er. Tha Gatesville National Bank, capi­ tal $100,000 and a like su1·plus, has Dan E. Graves as its president, and Andrew Kendrick as cashier. J. P. Kendrick, 86 HISTORY 014., COHYE•LL COUNTY formerly cashier, i~ now active vir.e president. The Guar­ anty Bank & Trust Co., "'ith capital stock of $50,000 and a strong surplus, is ably managed by C. C. Sadler, presi­ dent and Lewis Ho~mes, cashier. Municipal Interests The city of Gatesville o,vns its water departmentt including the mode:rn sewage disposal plant, and fire fight­ ing equipment. The City Han is a modern building in which are housed all city department offices, including th~ fire sta­ tion and quarters for volunteer firemen. Centennial year has been very kind to Gatesville, for this year will witness the completion of the final unit, the large auditorium of the City Hall. This spacious room is to be used for gath­ erings of community-wid<' interest, such as shows, plays and meetings that concern the entire public. In Raby Park, in the south part of the city, and be­ longing to the city, is a 111ost beautiful playground. It has a fine swimming pool, excellent groves of live ·oak trees, shrubbery:- winding paths and rustic seats, making an ideal place for outing f 01· visitors as well as home people. Gatesville has several ))a ved streets, and practically all . other streets are grav€led with an "all weather" su1·­ f ace. There is soon to be another in1portant building to go up. The Federal Goyernment has purchased ample space at the cornt1r of Leon and Eighth streets, and wiJI shortly start the erection of a modern post office building. Leading Business Establishments In the lumber and building material firms \\·ill he found the John R. Graha1n Lumber Co., John Graham, man­ ager; Wm. Cameron & Cc., Inc., W. C. Guggolz, manager; the W. F. & J. F. Barnes Lumber Co., Jeff Bates, manA- ger. Important mercantHe establishments are Leaird'.J Dep.artment Store, Byron Leaird owner; Alvis-Garner Co., dry goods, C. E. Alvis; manager; Painte's, dry goods, Geo. .• PRESENT~DAY GATESVILLE ...S . Painter, owner; Davidson Bros. & Co., dry goods; Joe Hanna, dry goods; Perry Brothers, notions; H. B. Davi~' Ben Franklin Store, notions; Bensons Style Shoppe; Morton Scott, furniture and undertaker; Hensler, Hord & Parks, hardware and harness ; R. E. Po"1 ell, hard,vare and imple­ ments; Poston Bros. & Brita~n, in1plcments; Mayes Studio and Radio Shop; J. S. 'forbett, school goods and magazines; McClellan Bros., groceries; H. Bauman & Son, groceries; Fletcher & Beerwinkle, groceries; C. Bauman, groceries an-j market; Frank~ & Jones, market; A. H. Meadows, market; A. L. Mayes, groceries ; A\lbrey Walker, groceries ; A. & P. Store, groceries; Black Grocery stores; T. C. Potts, grocer­ ies, M. W. Murray, grocories; Pe1ry Hale, groceries; and others. Among automobile agencies are Coryell Motor Co., Fords; Powelt Chevrolet Co., Chevrolets ; Scott Motor Co., Terraplanes; Shepherd Motor Co.. Plymouth and Chrysler; D. D. McCoy, Plymouth and Dodge; E. W. Jones & Son, Pontiac. Oil and refining companies maintaining agencies in Gatesville are the Texas Co., Gulf Co., Sinclair, T.-P. Oil Co., Magnolia, Humble, Conoco, Pennington Bros. There are two wholesale grocery companies with large warehouses in Gatesville. Thomson Grocery Co., 1>nd the Cooper Company. Important business establishments are the Gates­ ville Ice Co. ; Coryell County Cotton Oil Co~ ; Gatesville Coca Cola Bottling Co. ; Gatesvi]le Laundry; Waddill Can­ dy Co., wholesale and retail; Jake Stout & Son, broom man­ ufacturers; Manning Machine Shop. The produce and grain dealers include Zim Scott, Gaco Feed Store, Golden Gate Feed Sto1·e ; Gatesville Poul­ try and Egg Co. ; Swift & Co. ; Farme1·s Produce ; George Miller, Schaub Feed Co. Insurance agencies, mutual and old line include Howard S. Corr1pton, Brown & White, Thedra Mounce, J. ss HISTORY OJ."' ('OR YELL COU~TY A. Painter, C. C. Whisenhunt, Wm. Wiegand, Pleas Wal­ ker, John T. Post. Other business concerns of importance are Chamlee Garage, Pat Olsen's Garage, F. F. Chamlee Garage, Pat Potts Tin Shop, Mack's Cabinet Shop. J. R. Curtis Garag·e, Barker's Tin Shop~ Garrett furniture repairing, Mrs. J. B. Graves, florist, Curtis Rogers' Garage, Washburn's Garage. Five barber shops and five beauty parlors do a good good business. There are three movie picture shows in Gatesville with the best and latest sound systems. T\\·o neV\'spapers-the Coryell County News, pub­ lished every Tuesday and Ftiday, and the Gatesville Mes­ senger, weekly-al c aiding in the g·ro,vth and welfare of the city. Hotels and cafes include Boyer Hotel, the L. & L. Hotel, the Moon, Sadler House, Pott's House, Cottage l{o .. tel, the Cozy Cafe, Peels, Meeks, High,vay, Doc's, New Post Office Cafe, Adan1a, and Buckhorn cafes. Four drug stores with modern fixtures, large stocks, are well managed: City D1·ug Store, Gatesville Drug Store, Arnold Drug Store, Flentge Drug Store. The public utility companies operating in Gatesvill~ are Community Public Service Co., light and po,,,er; Con. munity Natural Gas Co., Gulf States Telephone Co. The Cotton Belt Railway operates a passenger train C'ach way daily. A bus line oi:,erates two busses each way daily. There 11re two regulai· truck lines operating through Gatesvilla. REPUBLIC OF TEXAS LAND PATENT

In the Coryell County legal records is shown a re­ corded copy of one of the earlie3t land grants connected with the early· history of the County. The patent was issued \1\'hen Coryell was a part of Mil~9?1 County, and while Texas was yet & Republic, shortly before it was annexed to the United States. Follo,ving is a copy of the land patent. Early Day Land Patent In the name of the (Seal) REPUBLIC OF TEXAS: To all to whom these Presents shall come, know ye I, Anson Jones, President of tha Republic aforesaid, by vh·­ tue of power vestect in me by Law, and in acco1·dance with the Statues of Said Republic in such case made and pro­ vidP.d, do by these Presents, GrP.. nt to Frederich Helmill~r. his heirs and assig·ne For~ver eight hundred acres of Land .situated and described as follow~: In Milam County, on the ridge bet,veen the Leon and Owl Cr-eek and about 27 miles above the Three Forks of Little River. "Beginning at NE corner of a survey made for A .• Rodes, from which a livcoak laans N 43 E 38 varas. An­ otht r leans N 31 W 15 va1·as for the SW comer of this survey. 'rhence South 71 E&st two thousand and two hun­ dred varas to the ~~ corner in the prah·ie. Thence North 19 East seven hunrlred and forty varas passed the SW corner of a survey made for A. S. Thurston assignee, two thou-­ sand and fifty-thrte var!ls to the NE corner of mound. Thence Nort:'1 91 West, two thousand two hundred varas to the N\\1 corner, a pile of rocks, in the East line of John Greasson's sn~·vey. Thence with said survey S 19 W t\\-·o 90 HISTOR\. Ol'CORYBLL COUNTY thousand and fifty-three varas to eite of beginning. Hereby relinquish to hi111 the said Frederich Hel­ miller and his heirs or assigns Forever, all the right and title in and to said Land, herett;fore held and possessed by the Government of said Republic, and I do hereby is~ue this Letter Patent for same. IN TESTIMONY Whereof I have caused the Great Seal of the Republic to be affixed as well as the Seal o·f the General Land Office. "Done 2.t the City of Austin on the eighth day of February, One Thousand Eight Hundred and Forty-Six, and the year t'f the Independence of said Republic, the Tenth. ANSON JONES, President. Thomas Wm. Wal'd, Commissioner. Presentett :Cor filing on Coryell County Records De­ cember 20, 188'1, at 4 P. M. Recorded at 5 P. M. same day. R.W. WELLS, Co. Cle1·k. Dr. D. C. Homan of Oglesby has the oriainal land patent from which this copy was di-awn. Dr. Roman's ranch near Flat is J. part of the land described in the pater.t•

.>- t " ( < ===:::::::..

THE WENDS, GERMANS AND OTHER NATIONALITIES -- Although pr<'bably not hr.ving come as early as the Anglo-American poople, other nationalities of people have had no little part in the early development and proare~s cf the County. That branch of a sturdy, hardy people, so well fitted to pioneering, known as the Wend Germans, together with. other folk of basic kindred, have had an irr..­ portant share !n tile history of our County. WENDS, GERMANS, or1"HER NATIONALITIES !}1 The German Wends, racially of Slavic origin, akin to the Poles nnd Bohemians, und sn1all in number, have always n1aintained their identity as a race, their tradi­ tions, language c1n~J literature, su:rrounded by large groups of kindred ra'!e. They occupied :.-t territory little larger than Coryell County along the river Spree in Ger111any. In 1854 a company of 558 Wends, under the leadership of Rev. John Kilian, left Gern1any to fh1d a land where they might fnjoy greater religious freedom. Among these emigrants was Karl Teincrt, Grandfather of G. J. Teine1~ of Copper­ as Cove. On the voyage 73 died. of cholera. John Teinert ~.aw the body of his mother let down into the sea. A settlement was made at Serbin in Lee County; a Lutheran chu:r~h \Vas established, and the colony prospered for a whiJe. At a certain Serbin school dedication, ·aev. John Kilian p1·ea.ched to an audience of mixed ·nationalities in three langunges-Wenrlisch, Ge1·man, and English, thus ~ho wing his tact ~nd ability for leadership by adapting himself to the necessity of the occasion. Upon the Wend's migrating from Serbin in later years as theL· numbers increased, two colonies were four.­ t!ed in Coryell County. One at The Grove and the other at Copperas Co,\e. As early as 1891 there ,vere Wend sett1'3- ments at Coppe!·as Cove, and s!lch names as Christian Jacob, John Falk~, John Nerretig, Matthes, Schwansch, John Herzog, John Kubitz, Reinhold Hempel, and other~ r•.re found. One if the first Wends to make his permanent home at Co1,peras Cove was Christian Jacob. He was much intcreste

Herzog of Oklahoma City is the Lutheran Walther League treasurer of the Oklahoma district.. Prominent w:1.s Mr. John Tcinert, -(Grandpa Teinert) son of Mr. Karl T~inert. He lived at Copperas Cove front 1918 until his death in March, 1932, age 90 years. He \\-as once a mail eit:rrier and also wa..C1 a Ch1il War soldier, a v~ry loyal citizen, a mnn of good Judgment and respected !:y everybody who knew him. His wiie, Anna nee Kurio, ,iV&3 & Wend. She died in 1917. Mr. and Mrs. Teinert are buried on the Lutheran f'.A!metery near Copperas Cove. Thc.ir r.hildren living at Copperas Cove r.re: Mr. Emil Teineri; Mr. Ernest Teiner.;, Mr. G. J. Teinert; Mr. John A. Tein­ ert; Emma, Mrs. Otto Meissner, and Lena, Mrs. Jol'.n Kubitz. A sho1·t v;::-.y from Copperas Cove is located the Lutheran Church, established thei-e in tr..e early days of the community. A~.though princi1>ally of German member­ ship, a goodly number of Wends are men1bers of th;it organization. The present pr..stor is Rev. L. J. Wernei·, one of the leading citizens of that section of the county. Although the Wend lant,uage has given way to German th~re are some families thei-e who still speak the 'Janguage in their !tomes. The Co})peras Cove Wends num­ ber probably about 100. At The Grove the colony numb~1·s more. Among theri we find such names as Boriack, Dube, Hobratschke, Hobl'3, and Winkler. The distinguished Prof. Ernest Winkler, o.f the University of Texas, is of thiiJ Wendisch family, and is well kno\\n for his literary work. The Wends &'t'e 2. people of the soil, frugal and industrioua. Their chief ambition is to become comfortably established farmers. They axe religious, and seldom has a criminal character of their -race appeared in the State. The well or­ dered fanns of The Grove anj Copperas Cove communj-. ties attest the value these people have been to the County. The county also has many people of strictly Ger­ man origin. They m-e principally farmers and ranchers, WENDS, GERMANS, 0 THER NATIONALITIES 93 but many hold buEiness inte1·ests. While a great many of the Germans are Lutherans in 1·eligious faith, it was the Rev. J. E. Sydo\\·, born in Gern1any in 1840, who estab­ lished the German Baptist Church at King and at Coryell City. William Vilss, a prosperous, enterprising Gern1an citizen, bears the distinction ·of having built the first barb­ wire fence in his eommuity, and developed the big-head millet. The contributions of the German-Americans to the progress of Coryell County m-e valuable and lasting. In 1854 the Norwegi~.ns, under the leadership of the 1·enowned Cleng Purson, founded a settlement along l.he tributary str~ams that flow into the Bosque River from the west side. The overflow from the Norse settlements soon spread into Coryell County and the people are recost­ nized in such naines as N. Pederson, Pat Olsen, Charles Liljeblad, Hendrickson, Solberg, Hanson, Anderson, Rees­ ing, and many other names of members of that sturdy race of men ·Nho had their origin under tke lights of the Aurora Borealis. We fi, ad the enterr,rising numbe1·s of this thrifty people entering ar.d 111astering every field of endeavor. Among this people the author has found the Rreatest nurr.ber of home librarie~ (and the most read) that he has seen among any peopie. rfhe chief contribution o~ the Mexican people, a race decendinr f1",lm the aboriginal Indian and the early Spanish settlers, is the legendary lore which in recent years has contributed quite a colorful influence to Texas literature. In Coryell County many and varied are the tales told of lost. mines and buried treasures, to which only the Mexican, ,vith his pictiograph chart, has the key to findinr. This is the romantic heritage left by this race, \Vhose origin is lost so deep in the mists of Aztec antiqui­ ty that no historian may trace it. MOTHER NEFF MEMORIAL PARK

Mother Neff Park has a historical setting, and is the center around which other int.eresting historical facts cluster. Within a radius of a few miles of the parklands are a number ol places of historical interest to Coryell County. We believe that in leading up to a history of the Park a recouning of the history of a few of these spots will be of intere.'lt, and bettr prepare one to appreciate the great playground Hon. Pat Neff has so generously given the people oi Texas. The account of the historic spots as here rendered are the glea11inp of a lifetime. Some of our information is from historic records, and a great deal of it is tradition-­ al, received "by word of mouth" from old pioneers who were here when •th~ country was ne,v and ,vitnessed its carving ·from a wilden1ess and its shaping into a modern civili­ zation. The territory adjacent to the Park has been very generous in gi,·ing the State men of prominence. Within sight of the parkland, there has sprung from the bone and thews of pioneer families, a Governor of Texas and presi­ dent of a great university-Pat Neff; a judge of the tenth Court of Civil Ap)Jeals-James P. Alexander; a noted che,n­ ist and university professor-Prof. Acree; a famous mis­ sionary to Brazil-Rev. Muirhead; and a man who has gainbd a place in Texas literature by recording the tradi­ tions of the range in verse-Walt Cousins. This list could be augumented by the names of several others who have won distinction in •a lesser degree. In pointing out the places of interest we have tri~d MOTHER NEFF :\1EMORIAL PARK 95 to follow a chl'onoiogical order, also have included tht' 01- igin of a number of pb\ce names. Fort Station In giving a history of Fort Station, it will sh~d more light on the founding of this pl2ce by briefly tracing the account of the Erath expedition in 1839. An lndi~>.n massacre of ,vhite settlers had occurred at Pond Creek in Milam County in 1839. Captain George Erath, with a 1arge company of men had gone in pursu!t. A battle was fought at Bird Creek in what is now Bell County. The Indians were defeated. Pursuit ,vas continued into that wide blackland vallev v,hich lies bet,veen the Leon River and the Penry Hills. 'fhe men camped on what is now Stampede Creek. Captain Erath relates, "On their way down they (the ludians) had driven the buffalo ahead and killed large numbers of them so that the whole country \vas covei·ed with their carcass~s, the stench of which to­ gether with that t\f the bodies of he Indians te1Tified ou1· horses at night, and caused a stampede to take place, by which we lost large numbers. This occurrence gave the name of Stampede to the creek where it took place, and which heads in McLennan County and flows into Leon Rover." The now famous Stampede Valley also received its nanle from the ~ame occurrence. Early next rnorning search for the stampeded horses ,vas begun. About noon they ,vere located on a little creek a few miles to the west. So the creek was named Hor&e Creek. This creek has its sour~e at the Neff Spring; the old homestead site of the Neffs, and it was near this spring that Pat Neff was born The movement of the soldiers continued westward along the rock ridges skirting the Leon River brakes. 'l,hey came upon a r.idge overlooking a little valley sloping into the prairie. Below them ,vas a mott of laTge liveoak trees in which we.re perched some bald eagles. On going down below the trees the soldiers found a fine spring· of water 96 HISTORY OF' CORYELL COUNTY gushing out of the rocks. On account of the eagles they called the plac~ EAgle Springs, and here they camped for the night. On searching for fire wood the soldiers found a large quantity of wild onions, hence they named the stream Onion Creek. The next day the n1arch was con­ tinued until. they came out onto a wide grassy prairie. Here a station was maintained for several n1onths. Th(.re was an abundant ~upply of water, and abundance of wood for fire and grass for the horses. The creek, which h111-.; its source 11t the town of Qglesby, was named Station Creek. This station is the plact! now known as old Fcrt Station. The exact spot of the old fort is not certain, but is accepted as a spot in the Fegett pasture, half mile above the old military crossing on Station Creek. This was probably the first military station maintained in Coryell Couny by white Americans. A Historic Road An interesting old road, an historic old road, enters Coryell County a few miles from Whitson, to the south. crosses Horse Creek and onwa1·d to the west it crosses u part of the Moth"J.' Neff Memorial Park. From here it · courst,s alodg the Leon River breaks and drops over th':! hills into the Leon valley on its direction toward old F'ort Gates. Perhaps this is the oldest road in the county, if we except known old Indian trails. This route was estab­ lished by scouts advancing ahead of the troops sent to e,i• tablish Fort Gates in 1849. Then there were no wire f eu­ ces, nothing but a vast unsettled country to cross. With the settling of the country later a number of farms have ~~=· laid out so that sections of the old road have bee ...... ,aatb·ely closed. At one time the road was markect with substantial mile stones which stood guide to the west­ ward bound pioneers whe> was seeking a home in the un­ settled west. One of these old ~tones stands in the farm of F. P. Smith, "~hich joins the Neff Park on the east line. Another road markef stands on the hill just west of Eagle JESS KERBY OLDEST RESIDENT 97

Springs. Let us hope that these markers may be placed. one where the old road enters Neff Park on the east line and the other where the old traail leaves the Park on the west line. Over this road many of the South's most illustroua military men traveled while in the United States Army r,rior to the Civil War. It was Colonel Robert E. Lee who directed the troops who first laid out this road while on their way to found Fort Gatea in 18A9. History relates that s-ttch men as Gen. R. E. Lee, Gen. Ben McCulloch, Gen. Albert Sidney Johnston, traveled this road while they were directing the establishmer,t of a line of forts across the frontier to protect the settl~:ts from the raiding· Coman­ ches, and other Indian tribes.

JESS KERBY, OLDEST COUNTY RESIDENT

There ic alw.vays something interestina- about old men. They uiually have som,~ story to tell of pioneer days. Uncle Jess Kerby of Oglesby, as he is familiarly known, has probably lived lon~r in Coryell County than any other living person. Mr. Keroy \\·as bom in Milam County January 7, 1854 and, with his pat·ents, came to old Fort Gates in June <•i the same year. Through all these 82 years since that early June day in that distant year when the cargo of his father's ox \l'a.-on was unloaded ,it Fort Gates up to the present thne, Mr. Kerby has lived in this county. The home which was built near the old Fort with log-s and a 98 HI-STORY OF CORY»LL OOUNTY stone chimney. He,·e the Kerby's lived for one or two )·ears, but sn.ffered a great deal from chills and malarbd fever. One day th<1 elder Kerby went over the mountain north of Fort Gates hunting, with the hope of killing a bear, deer, or ,vild turkey to replenish the family larder.. About a mile from where the Caufield school house now stands he found a large spring oi water. Upon his return home he repo:i-ted this to be a most beautiful spot to build 2- home. He then ..1sked his wife, "Would you rather stay at the Fort and fight chills and fever, or move to the spring and take ehancP.s ~rith the Indians?" Mrs. Kerby, without hesitation answered, "I'll chance the Indians." So th~y moved to Cougar Spring, for it ,vas called in those day8, and built a home. A log house was built, cl little farm cleared and fenced with cedar rails; stock w~re secured and e,,,erything w·as moving nicely toward th~ !>\lilding of a permanent home. In those days all cooking ,vas done on the hearth of the firer.lace. There were dogirons, and "swing pot hooks" for boiling fastened to the jambs of the fireplace. The family was well edtablished. In the late 1850's a dis­ asterous prairie a~d bnu.:h fire burned all the buildiugs and fenees and alntost everything they had accumulated. In 1860 k home was built oil Plum Creek about 10 miles west of Gate!ville, bat a year later, when the CivH War broke out, the family moved back to the old place at Cougar Spring and re-established their home. The elder Kerby volunteered Ior service in the Confederate army and was assigned to Captain George Arro,\rwood's Company of Rangers and sent to the frontie,.·, but later served with the armies in the south. The mother and children had a struggle, but were equal to the task. All cloth for clotl1ing was woven Rt home, ropes were ·,foven of long buffalo hair, salt was al- JESS KEHBY OLDEST HESIDJ.i~NT !,9 most unobt;.iin:lble. For a time, 1·awhide was used in plac;~ ,>f leather but ingenuity overcame this handicap. Large cottonwood logs were secured and hollowed out like trottR"hs. The hair was removed from the hid~:-1 with wood ashez and lime. The lime having been burned in log heaps by placing a layer of logs then a layer of limestone rock, h.aving a number of layers of each, and when the heap was complete, fire ,vas set to 'the logs and aft~1· burning away the logs, the stones ,vere burned to a fine tJuality of quicklime. The hides thus cleaned of hair were then placed in the troughs. Over them ,vas poured an ooze made by hoiling cedar foliage. The hides '\\·ere al­ lowed to remain in this ooze until they had the proper cur• ing for good lcath~r. This leather was made into saddles, harness, shoes, belts and every article for which leather was required. Oxen ,vere the only draft sinin1als. Mr. Kerby r,1 .. members having ~cen many b,?a1· killed in the hills near ,vhere GatesviUe n.ow stands. He relats once having a pet bear, not so much of a pet either, for it once almost ~tripped the clothing from a m:~.n \\'ho came within tJ ,c lengnth of the chain which h tJld him. Mr. Kerby's first schooling was in an old log cabin about one mile frum the site of th~ present County Poor Farm. He says a Mr. Harris taught the school. In 1869 the Kerby's n1cved to a farm now owned by the McElvains. To this farm were moved the log~~ from their Cougar Spring home. These logs were rc­ f .rected into a Jog house which is stiH standing and is a relic of the heroic days when men, no,v old, toiled to make fl solid civilization for generations to follow. In 1878 Jess Ker by married Amanda Cole. 'fhey no\\' o,vn a home and iarm in the old Martin King Colony on Tonk Creek. Mr. Kerby's greatest ,vealth lies in the e~­ teem in which a large number of friends hold his memory. LA YING CORNERSTONE OF PRESENT COURTHOUSE

As stated in a preceding chapter in this history, Coryell County is now using its third courthouse building. The fint was a wooden structure located on the corner lot where the City Filling Station now stands. It was erected soon after the county was org~nized and was used until 1872, when the cornerstone laying of the seeond court­ house took place. The second was a rock structure that served its purpose for twenty-five years, and stood in the upbJic square now octupied by our present substanti>tl couilty capitol. . In th~ summer of 1897 work of tearing do•·n th~ old buildins waa started and three months later, October 2, 1897, the cornerstone of the present building was ct-'­ mented in its !)lace in th• northeast corner, under the im­ pressive ceremonies of the Memnic frttternity. We quote here from an account printed in a local newspaper pu h­ !ished at that time: "Last Saturday Gatesville Lodge No. 197, A. F. & A. M., laid the cornerstone of the new courthouse with the beautiful and ancient Masonic ceremony, assisted hy 1nemben from all the other Lodges in the county. There were thousands of peopl assembled from nil 1•rts of this and adjotnins counties to witnes~ the ceremony. A lar'°e platform had been erected at the northeast ci>rner of the foundation, a part ot which was •.>ecupied with a tent cloth to serve as a stand for the speaker and n1usicians. Mrs. LAY!XG COH!'\14:H STO~B OF' C'OPH'f HOUSE 101

Shadden's orchestr~~, composed c,f hc•rself, Mrs. 0. F. Weil~, Misses Shadden and Well~, Me-;;drs. Fagg, \"' oss, and Baker, rendered RWeElt music so ~oothicg and soft that one aln1ost imagined himself in some ench-nnted clhue. "At tv.·o o'clock the Mason~ for1ned their line o.f ]narch at the sout~we~t corner of the square ~nd proceHd­ ed two bh;ck~ e~sL on Leon street, thence one block north to Main, thence ,vest to the 9latlorm. Rev. Sam WaddiJl (•pened the service~ with a beautiful and r.ppropriate prayer, ~.fter whi~h thf' oi-chestra rend~red another beautiful s~­ :.ection. Past Grand Master N 01·ton Moses then delivered i,.n address, P.X}>laining the ancient custon1 and treating somewhat of the grand principles upon which Masonry ,va~ founded, ciosing ,vith a eulogy ,>n wom&n that was sublitn~. "After the add1·ess, the large, grey granite stone~ from Granite Mountain, which ,vas suspended by blook·• and-tackle immediately above the spot ,vhere it was to rest, was lov.1ered to its resting place as the ritualistic ceremony proceeded in solemn and impressive manner. "The ~tone is of blue-grey granite, weighina 1825 pounds, and is finely polished and beautifully engraved. On the north side is engraved 'T. C. Taylor, county Judge; J. M. Russell, N. A. Harper, R. E. Edwards, J. H. Grisby, county commissio:a1ers ; W. C. Dodson, architect ; Tom Lovell, contractor.' On the ea.:;t fare is, 'Laid by Gatesville Lodge, No. 197 .. A. F. & A. M., October 2, A. D. 1897, A. I..,. 5897,' with the square and compass in the center. "With the immense crowd in town, everything \Vas very orderly. During· the whole c!ay, splendid order wn..1 maintained by the great throng of sightseers, and all in all it was a day that will remain fresh and green in ~he memory of onr pei.lple. The Deposits. "The deposits in the cornerstone were many, antl as follows: H. M. Barnhardt, a Honduran dime; Ben Ne1N­ iand, a 1netal tablet sho,ving the taxable values of the 102 HISTORY OFCORYE.LL COUNTY county; S. A. Ch~mbers, a photo of the old courthou~e : •r. W. Kirkland, t\,'O boxes of mP.dicinc; Dr. U. M. Gild~r, a box of pills; Mott Suggs, n,~wspaper clipping·; W. A. McBeth, a vial of Sodom salt; S. B. Ha,vkins, occupaticn tax receipt ; J. C. Gouldy, cor•Y of Dallas Morning N e,vs of Oct. 1, 1897 ; James Stewart, half penny Sterling; l\l. L Ayres, 1897 five-cent piece,; Fordyce Woodard, 188•1 three-cent piece ; Wm. Rose, ~. bottle of whiskey ; D. It Hall, copy of the Gatesville Sun, Dec. 20, 1878, and copy of Gatesville Star, Sept. 20, 1897; W. E. Bro,vn~ a thought; W. H. W. Jones, U. S. 25-cent t1·easury certificate; Owen Fauntleroy, a t.honght; Y. S. Jenkins, city and county atD.­ tistics; Miss FeliciD Mc Vey, a Jist of W. C. T. U. officer~, etc.; A. J. Ne\\·to11, a note congratulating the county on the new courthousa; C. F. Caruth, a history of the Gate5- ,ille Water Supply Co.; Honeycutt & Jenkins, book of formulas; R. W. Bartin, copy of the Gatesville MssengP.r, Sept. 1, 1897; First National Bank, its card; T. D. Boue, bottle of whisky; Crow.& Anderson, a memorandum book; A. Matthews, a key tag; Ed Wescon, a rock from Lebanon; l .. W. Saunders, a Chinese mili (one-tenth of a cent); P .. B. Barnes, Jhoto of the old courthouse; Con1n~ittee on .ar­ rangement, program of the day's ~ntertninment; T. C. Taylor, Columbian half dollar, 1893; J. H. Arnold, Colu1n­ bian half dolla~, 1893; Joe Gage, men~o1·andun1 for post~r­ ity; Mrs. Joe Gage, Primitive Baptist paper; Felix Boy J key tag; Ma~onic I.odge, Bible ; Gutesvi11e No. 197 A. I•'. & A. M~, roster of membership; Unkon\\'n, 25-cent coin. " The copper box in which the deposits were placc:.1 is eight inches square, and was made r.nd sealed by M. C. Bigham, the tinner. It just fit the cavity in the rock anrl ,vas a very neat piece of work. The salt deposited by .t.-11·. McBeth was taken from near the Dead Sea. The bottle of brandy derosited by T. D. Bone was a part of the hot­ Ue placed in the old cornerstone of the old building when it was" laid in 1872."