Waste Not Want Not TUNZA the UNEP Magazine for Youth

The UNEP Magazine for Youth

for young people · by young people · about young people FOOD

Waste not Want not TUNZA the UNEP magazine for youth. To view current CONTENTS and past issues of this publication online, Editorial 3 please visit www.unep.org How much is enough? 4

United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) Choosing a life on the land 6 PO Box 30552, Nairobi, Kenya Tel (254 20) 7621 234 Mo Farah: It touches my heart 7 Fax (254 20) 7623 927 Once upon a time 8 Telex 22068 UNEP KE E-mail [email protected] As the world warms 10 www.unep.org Food or fuel? 10 ISSN 1727-8902 Another way 12 Director of Publications Nick Nuttall Farmiﬁ cation 12 Editor Geoffrey Lean Special Contributor Wondwosen Asnake Food needs bugs and beasts 14 Youth Editor Karen Eng Nairobi Coordinator Naomi Poulton Wondergrains 16 Head, UNEP’s Children and Youth Unit Theodore Oben Are we asking the right questions? 18 Circulation Manager Mohamed Atani Making the most of what we’ve got 18 Design Edward Cooper, Ecuador The last wild catch 20 Production Banson Cover image Chanta Chaiyapol/UNEP/Bayer Seven spices 22

Youth contributors Dandee Bitancor A big voice against hunger 24 (Philippines); Julia Boorinakis-Harper (USA); Jenny Dawson (UK); Sophie Gore Browne (UK); Keep up with TUNZA on your mobile Oscar Alejandro Luna Alvarez (Venezuela); Lisa Ma (UK); Ramanathan Thurairajoo (Singapore). http://tunza.mobi

Other contributors Christina Aguilera; Jane or on Facebook Bowbrick; Mo Farah; Tony Juniper; Chris Leaver; Fred Pearce; Rosey Simonds and David www.facebook.com/TUNZAmagazine Woollcombe (Peace Child International).

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The contents of this magazine do not necessarily refl ect the views or policies of UNEP or the editors, nor are they an offi cial record. The designations employed and the presentation do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of UNEP concerning the legal status of any country, territory or city or its authority, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries. UNEP and Bayer, the German- Painting Competition on the based multinational involved in Environment, the UNEP Tunza health care, crop protection International Youth and Children’s and high-tech materials, are working Conferences, youth environmental together to strengthen young networks in Africa, Asia Pacifi c, people’s environmental awareness Europe, Latin America and the and engage children and youth in Caribbean, North America and West environmental issues worldwide. Asia, the Bayer Young Environmental UNEP promotes Envoy Program and a photo environmentally sound practices A partnership agreement, originally competition, ‘Ecology in Focus’, in globally and in its own activities. This signed in 2004 and renewed in 2007 Eastern Europe. magazine is printed on 100% chlorine-free and 2010, runs through 2013. It lays paper from sustainably managed forests, using down the basis for UNEP and Bayer The long-standing partnership between vegetable-based inks and other eco-friendly to implement the projects under the UNEP and Bayer has become a practices. Our distribution policy aims to reduce UNEP’s carbon footprint. partnership. These include: TUNZA public-private partnership that serves Magazine, the International Children’s as a model for both organizations.

2 TUNZA Vol 10 No 3 EDITORIAL

HE FOOD AND AGRICULTURE ORGANIZATION of the United Nations (FAO) reports that today there Tare 130 million fewer hungry people than there were 20 years ago. In 1990-92, there were about 1 billion undernourished people in the world, now there are 870 million.

The Millennium Development Goals set out, between 1990 and 2015, to halve the proportion of people going hungry. And according to the FAO, even if the number of hungry people is still too high, we’re making real headway: the proportion of undernourished people fell by a third between 1990-92 and 2010-12. Is this just hiding the plight of the hungry behind proportions and percentages?

Actually, the world’s farmers have done amazingly well in the last 50 years. The world’s population has risen from around 3 billion to more than 7 billion today. But approximately the same number of people has remained hungry, which means we are feeding around 4 billion more people – and without really increasing the area of cultivated land.

But there’s a scandal behind the numbers. UNEP Executive Director Achim Steiner explains: ‘We produce more than 4,000 calories per person per day, but on average only 2,800 reach consumers; the rest is either lost, wasted or discarded. We could feed everyone, including our growing population, just by making the human-managed food chain more efﬁ cient. No more land needs to be converted for agriculture – good news for the survival of wild animals, birds and ﬁ sh.’

Think what many of us load on to our plates, leave and then junk – that’s the fate of 35 per cent of the world’s school meals. Or the food we buy, leave in the fridge, and never eat. In the UK a staggering 177,400 tonnes of potatoes, 328,000 tonnes of bread, 178,800 tonnes of apples and 161,000 tonnes of meat and fi sh meals are thrown away whole and untouched each year. In all, 45 per cent of all food by weight or 61 per cent by cost bought in the UK ends up in a bin. It’s a little better in the USA, where up to a quarter of all fresh fruit and vegetables is lost between fi eld and table, and overall losses and food waste amount to around 40-50 per cent of what’s harvested. These fi gures raise questions of whether, in the developed world, food is just too cheap. Thirteen-year-old Diana Fan from the United States won the 21st International Children’s Painting But food losses in the developing world are also con- Competition on the Environment with her image siderable, although the main culprits there are spoilage (above). In the words of Bayer’s Dr Michael Preuss, and pests. In Africa, for example, around 30 per cent of it ‘expresses the hopes and fears fi sh landings are lost through discards, post-catch loss of the younger generation’. and spoilage, while losses of fi eld crops, between planting and harvesting, could be as high as 20-40 per cent of the potential harvest. The cover of this issue of TUNZA features the 5th prize-winning ‘We desperately need innovation in the way we distribute, image, by Chanta Chaiyapol sell and consume food,’ says Achim Steiner, ‘as well as in (aged 14) from Thailand. how we grow it. For millions that could make the difference between life and death’.

Food 3 How much is enough?

HUNGER, OBESITY, WASTE – it’s a conundrum. At the same time as getting reports of hunger and food insecurity, we hear that obesity is an increasing global health problem. And even as we learn of drought-stricken fi elds and over- harvested fi sheries, we are told that vast quantities of food are being wasted between the fi eld and the fork. It just doesn’t seem to add up. In fact, we do produce enough food to feed everyone. At the moment, the world generates more than 4,000 calories per person per day, although the average that reaches consumers is around 2,800 calories per day. The USA has the highest average at 3,770 calories per person per day, whereas in India it is 2,300 per day. Only in three of the world’s countries do people have less than the internationally agreed minimum for a healthy and productive life of around 1,800 calories a day.

o why do people go hungry? The and protein necessary for key bodily Organiza tion warns that by 2015, problem is uneven distribution functions, muscle development and one in three of us will be overweight. Sand access, within countries as maintenance. And at the other end Of these, more than 700 million well as between them. Almost a billion of the spectrum is a different kind of will be obese, reducing well-being people live without the food they need malnutrition: obesity. That’s not a mat- and life-expectancy. Together with to thrive, and everywhere those truly at ter of too few calories, but too many the 850 million who go hungry, that risk from hunger are the poor, as well – usually due to poor food choices and means that one in fi ve of the world’s as victims of catastrophes. The rural nutrient imbalance. population will be malnourished. poor tend to be subsistence farmers in developing countries subject to There are many contributing factors Waste not, want not drought, pestilence and erosion, often but, again, poverty is a leading one. with no access to electricity, clean Those who lack resources often have And then there’s waste. In general, drinking water or sanitation, and with more access to highly processed, up to half of all food produced is little or no health care or education calorie-rich but nutrient-poor foods lost. Due to poor storage, packaging services. In cities, the urban poor lack – a situation made worse by lack of and processing, 1.3 billion tonnes the money to buy food and produce education about nutrition. Then there’s of food perish between the fi eld and none of their own. Such poverty knows biology: humans are hard-wired to eat the plate – and that’s not to mention no national boundaries: even in the for survival. We have a hunter-gatherer’s what consumers, that’s you and me, USA, more than 50 million people, urge to consume food whenever it throw away in leftovers and unused that’s twice the population of Malaysia happens to be available for fear that it food. At what point in the production, or three times that of the Netherlands, will be a while until we eat again. But processing and distribution chain the experience food insecurity or lack this is at variance with our increasingly waste happens varies from place to access to proper nutrition. sedentary modern lifestyles. And, in place. In industrialized countries large much of the world, the overwhelming amounts are wasted by consumers, Hunger is real enough now, and climate availability of inexpensive ready-made while in the developing world, pro- change, depleted agricultural resources food and drink has seemed to free portionally more waste happens be- and overfi shed oceans all threaten people from the need to learn about tween the farm and the consumer. future food security – something we well balanced diets and how to prepare must pay attention to as the world’s food – much less grow, raise or hunt It all amounts to a complex problem human population continues to grow. their own, all of which are activities that will require thoughtful, systemic that require extra calories. and systematic change. The world Too little… or too much must fi nd a way to value and distribute But there’s no arguing that too many the food we have more equitably, What is malnutrition? When talking of us are eating much more than while taking care of the ecosystems about hunger, it’s the lack of calories we need. Indeed, the World Health that provide it.

owever you look at it, the fundamental role of of food consumption exceeding safe physiological limits food is to provide energy and nutrients to allow has become a reality, to the detriment of an individual’s ‘Hthe body and brain to function. Beyond this, survival and to overall food security in the long term. ‘how much is enough’ becomes highly subjective. ‘From an ecocentric standpoint, although individuals are ‘When a person’s basic needs have been met, economic, signiﬁ cant, the wider world, or ecosphere, is of greater cultural and social factors become priorities, and this shifts importance, as we humans are only part of the Earth system. the focus on food to a means of personal satisfaction So we must remember we are also eating for the health of rather than nutrition. With rising afﬂ uence and the myriad the planet.’ of food choices available in most countries, the possibility Ramanathan Thurairajoo, Singapore

4 TUNZA Vol 10 No 3 www.rubiesintherubble.com 5 Food Source: FAO Source: Source: FAO Source: Production and retail and retail Production Consumer TOTAL Kenya. in from own 180 36 216 185 110 295 110 185 110 15 125 15 110 155 5 160 5 155 160 80 240 80 160 200 25 225 25 200 ll or composted while providing training and jobs and jobs training providing while composted ll or 190 90 280 90 190

oung Londoners Jenny Dawson and Sophie Gore Jenny Dawson and Sophie Gore oung Londoners of the twin problems tackle to determined are Browne

rst came up with the idea when they saw the market tip tip market saw the with the idea when they up came rst North America and Oceania Europe Asia Industrialized Africa Sub-Saharan Asia and Central North Africa, West Asia South and Southeast Latin America to other young but unemployed women. Jenny and Sophie Jenny and Sophie women. but unemployed other young to fi good with perfectly stuffed market wholesale at London’s peas fl – including mange-tout produce food while providing employment opportunities for women women opportunities for employment providing while food in the Rubble, Rubies in need. Their social enterprise, good use of that makes and jam company is a chutney otherwise be sent that would fruit and vegetables fresh landfi to At the end of each day, they pick up the high-quality but pick up the high-quality but At the end of each day, they a small amount, and paying the traders surplus produce, it transform to kitchen commercial an on-site it to take entrepreneurs these young Ultimately, preserves. into their two- soups, and believe into diversify hope to training and offering waste reducing model for year-old in many other places. be replicated opportunities could

Food loss and waste, kilos per person per year per person kilos and waste, loss Food Y

Making the most of waste Making the most How many calories? many How than 3,500 More 3,000 - 3,500 2,500 - 3,000 2,000 - 2,500 1,800 1,800 - 2,000 Under Unknown Average per person per Average per day Photos: Julia Boorinakis-Harper 6 in your favour. with care, you can keep your ecosystem fairly well-balanced benefi like alogical step. Afarm isalittle ecosystem; there are used alot ofchemical pesticides orfertilizers, itseemed just didn’texist inmygrandfather’s time.But,aswe’d never ‘About fi own food. We alsoraise free-range chickens for eggs. the orchard andourvegetable garden, where we produce our plums for sale. We alsokeep beesfor honey and to pollinate by hand.Onabout2hectares we grow apples, pears and – withmyparents andIdoingjust abouteverything ourselves, farm. Soabout10years ago,we decidedto getseriousagain important to usto honourandpreserve this6-hectare historic ‘But ashousingcrept upandaround us,itbecame increasingly sell whatfruitwe could, butitwasmostly alabouroflove. could nolonger make alivingfrom theremaining ones. We’d virus haddamagedmost ofthefruittrees, andmygrandfather ‘The farm wassemi-dormantwhenIsmall.Inthe1960s,a and uncle, cousins, andIallgrew uphere. California, andgrew fruitfor aliving.My grandfather, mother left thecityandboughtafarm inthetinytown ofAuburn, ‘M TUNZA cial insectsand pests, “good”and“bad”weeds. But ve years ago,we decidedto goorganic –anotionthat Choosing alife Vol 10 No 3 Asia Minor–now Izmir,Turkey. In1918,he to SanFrancisco, California, from Smyrnain y great-grandfather George Boorinakisemigrated on theland inspiring others tolive offtheland. great-grandfather’s farm aproductive, organic family enterprise–andto Young farmer JuliaBoorinakis-Harperhasdedicatedherlife tomakingher for themselves. MymotherandIco-host the learn to cook, garden, preserve foods andeven raise animals seeing anincredible revival intraditional skills:people wantto local food, andconnecting withthosegrowing it.Infact, we’re practices, sharingstories andrecipes. People appreciate fresh, That’s themost gratifying part:talking to customers aboutour ‘We mostly sellourfruit andhoney atlocal farmers’ markets. very effective. more timeandeffort thanconventional farming, butit’s spray treatments only whennecessary. Thistakes up far bluebirds, batsandowls, andusecarefully timedorganic- also reduces runoff. We encourage natural predators like cover crops underthetrees like clover andmustard, which and encouraging benefi pest management (IPM),whichinvolves monitoring for pests ‘Instead ofusingconventional pesticides we use integrated visit For more aboutthe goings-onattheBoorinakis-Harper Ranch, exciting timeto beinvolved with food andfarming.’ suffi small family business, andto help others become more self- ‘My goalisto keep ourranch asasuccessful, self-sustaining can produce lots, even inanurbansetting. do-it-yourself-ing. We encourage people to start small.You Hour cient, closer to theirfood, connected withnature. It’s an www.bhranch.net. , ashow aboutbackyard farming, urbangardening and cial insectswithhedgerows and Homestead Radio Radio Homestead Popperfoto/Getty Images Getty Images lives andfulfi determined to dowhatwe could to helppeople rebuild their born simply nothavingenoughfood to eat.We came back fi He andTania were deeply affected byseeingfamine at who metthe13-year-old atschool,travelled to Somalia. Mo hasnever forgotten hisroots. Last year heandhiswife, and Imoved to theUK.’ grandmother inDjibouti. ThenwhenIwaseight,myfather north ofSomalia;others, includingme,went to live withmy every day. Myfamily wastorn apart.Somemoved to the lawlessness –shooting,killingandkidnappinghappening not hard’. Butwiththecivilwar,‘thecitydescended into Somalia, hisearly life was‘comfortable, noteasybut Mo hascome along way,literally. BorninMogadishu, grafting. Withthat,anythingispossible.’ I hadtoholdon.It’s beenalong journey, working hard and into the5,000-metre race, butwhenItookthelead, Iknew extraordinary determination.‘Iwasfeeling tired coming win bothevents atthesameGames–andthatshowed the 5,000metre races. Heistheseventh manever to 2012 Olympics whenhewon goldinboththe10,000and MO FARAH Mo Farah: rst hand:‘Itwasshockingseeingpeople where Iwas ll theirpotential.’ becameaninstant hero attheLondon ‘It touches myheart’ cheered onMo’s ambition: to 22,000people. Legendary activist andmusicianBobGeldof cal supportto 40,000people anddistributed amonth’s food supplied ten farms withlivestock andtools; pro vided medi- and hisfoundation have built50wells andeightwater canals; The race hasonly just begun, butinafew shortmonthsMo children withhopefor abrighter future’. ones inremote areas ‘to helpprovide poorand orphaned supporting existing community schoolsandsettingupnew can least afford it.’To changethat,thefoundation isboth people whoneeditthemost are usually theoneswho skills required to supporttheirfamilies,’ Moadds,‘but ‘Education isthekey to children andadultsgainingthe supply schemes. programmes for farmers through cereal aidandlivestock the foundation isalsosupportingincome generation of self-suffi ‘families andcommunities needhelpto establish cultures pro viding free care across Somalia.ButMo believes that and much-neededmotherchildhealthcare clinics catchment andsupply systems; andestablishing medical lities available byinstalling wells andimproving water a family; makingsafe drinkingwater andsanitation faci- emergency aidintheform ofamonth’s supply offood for Paula Radcliffe andSteve Cram, Moisworking to provide With thehelpofsupporters includingfellow Olympians help. Thatreally touches myheart.’ are often hithardest. There are kidsoutthere whoneedour in seven ofusgoesto bedhungryevery nightandchildren mentally. Ourworld has enoughfood for everyone, butone nutritious food isfor people to fl so bad,’Moexplains. ‘As athletes, we know how essential The result istheMoFarah Foundation. ‘Itdoesn’thave to be will make life Mo’ better for thousands thousands for better Mo’ life make will of Somalians. Mo’ Farah, Mo’ Mo’ Farah, Mo’ Somalians. of Fastah, Mo’ Somalia!!’ Mo’ Fastah, ciency andself-determination’. Asaresult, ‘Go Mo! Your foundation foundation Your Mo! ‘Go ourish physically and Food 7 Once upon a time... nce upon a time, there was such a thing as seasonal food. In Europe, for example, summer heralded the strawberry season and autumn the time for apples, while some foods – mangoes, pineapples, avocados, oranges and bananas – were unusual and exotic treats. But today, the miracle of modern transport and the globalization of trade mean that, Oin theory – especially for the rich – anyone on the planet can eat anything they want, any day of the year, anywhere. The food sector accounts for about a third of the world’s total energy consumption and for more than 20 per cent of total greenhouse gas emissions. Of course, transport makes up only a fraction of food’s carbon footprint. In fact, more than 80 per cent of food’s greenhouse gas emissions comes from growing, fertilizing and harvesting the produce. Processing accounts for about 16 per cent of food’s energy use, including chilling and freezing, while packaging accounts for 7 per cent, and retailing for 4 per cent. Even how people get to the shops adds to food’s carbon footprint. Effective strategies to lower the footprint of food must take all these factors into account.

Julia Boorinakis-Harper

Julia Boorinakis-Harper Julia Boorinakis-Harper

What can be done? in Europe are full of wines imported anics, but in fact, no produce that is air- from Australia, South Africa and Latin freighted from half a world away can be Canadian journalists Alisa Smith and America? considered sustainable. The problem is James MacKinnon experimented with so acute that the British Soil Association, a ‘150-kilometre diet’, only eating food The argument is not straightforward. for one, has considered not granting org- produced within 150 kilometres of Some say that farmers in developing anic status to any air-freighted produce. home. They discovered that it was ex- countries such as Kenya and Ecuador pensive and diffi cult to stick to, but the need the income made from the food Keep it simple approach does at least raise awareness choices of consumers in the wealthy of how far food has travelled. North, and this may be true in the There are no easy answers, and keeping short term. But others argue that over track of what you consume can be hard. To some degree, it makes sense the long haul, precious agricultural Much animal feed, for example, trav- that food should be grown where the resources in poverty-stricken countries els huge distances, so even local pork, necessary inputs are most readily should be developed to bolster their chicken or beef could have been raised available. For example, tomatoes grown own food security, not other people’s on soy from the other side of the world. in a warm climate and then trans ported preferences. This is especially true as The best guideline is to keep it simple: may require less energy than grow- the climate changes, with global food it really is satisfying to eat what’s in ing them in a local artifi cially heated costs expected to rise while freshwater season – and it gives you something to environment. Weighing the balance supplies dwindle. look forward to, so buy whole, unpro- isn’t always easy, but consistently cessed foods when possible, and look making more conscious choices about And what if you’re confronted with a for sources of locally grown food such where your food comes from and how choice of locally grown non-organic pro- as farmers’ markets. And why not grow it has been transported could deliver duce versus organic goods fl own in from some of your own? You’d be surprised big carbon savings. Can it, for example, Chile, South Africa or New Zealand? what you can grow in pots, and even if it make sense that surplus European The answer may seem straightforward is only herbs, eating something you’ve wine is turned into biofuel, while shops if you’re exclusively committed to org- grown is exciting.

8 TUNZA Vol 10 No 3 HOW much carbon dioxide, exactly?

ere’s an example of how much carbon dioxide is generated by food travel, comparing distances and transport modes from relatively near to very far away. These are for each tonne of freight to the UK, and for general information only! HAnd bear in mind that even a more efﬁ cient car travelling 100 kilometres generates 10 kilograms of carbon dioxide.

From From From France Spain New Zealand 344 km 1,266 km 18,809 km

by plane: 172 kg by plane: 633 kg by plane: 9,405 kg by truck: 20-51 kg by truck: 76-190 kg by ship: 188-750 kg

epSos.de/ﬂ ickr by train : 10-35 kg by train: 38-127 kg

Carbon dioxide emissions: grams of CO2 per tonne of freight per kilometre travelled This table will allow you to do your own calculations.

Aeroplane/air cargo 500 grams Modern lorry/truck 60-150 grams

Modern train 30-100 grams Modern ship 10-40 grams

Source: http://timeforchange.org/co2-emissions-shipping-goods

Changing tastes Traditional fare

Due to evolving patterns of global food production and Among many mouth-watering local foods here in Bicol, consumption, gastronomic culture in Venezuela has Philippines, my all-time favourite is pinangat, a luscious com pletely changed. Annual per capita con sump tion of blend of locally grown taro leaves, hot chilli, organic meat meat products has increased from 16 kilos to 24 kilos and coconut milk wrapped in young taro leaves and tied in the last 10 years, and we rely much more on imported securely with coconut leaf. What I most like about this products. Meanwhile, avocados, which used to be plentiful dish is the story behind it. When Mayon Volcano erupted in in every Venezuelan household, have started to disappear. 1814, the Cagsawa Church in between the municipalities of Avocadoes used to be called ‘poor butter’ because they Daraga and Camalig in Albay was destroyed. A father lost made a cheap spread to eat with bread, arepas (corn cakes) his wife, his two sons and two daughters. But the father had and so on. The fruit used to be sold in street trucks and to continue living. So every time he cooked the taro leaves, markets. Now, lower demand has made it more scarce and he poured into it all his love for his lost family. He even expensive. My mother says that 20 years ago, it used to cost wrapped the taro leaves with coconut leaf, just as he longed about $1 per kilogram; today, the price of avocado is more to wrap his children in his arms. than $5 per kilogram – and at average rates it takes three hours of work to earn that! Dandee Bitancor, BYEE 2009, Philippines

Oscar Alejandro Luna Alvarez, BYEE 2010, Venezuela Fred Ileto B. Navez/CC-BY-SA-3.0

Food 9 As the world warms… Fred Pearce

The 2011 drought in the southern US state of Texas was the worst in living memory, said the local farmers. They watched their corn being destroyed by the heat and lack of rain. But 2011 held the record for one year only: 2012 was even worse.

omething has been going and more extreme weather, all of In 2010, record monsoon rains in wrong with the weather in which will make our lives sometimes Pakistan brought fl oods that covered SNorth America. The reason, say uncomfortable – and farming more a fi fth of the country. Places that are scientists, is probably man-made diffi cult. It could even empty our usually desert were covered in water. climate change. It’s not certain. shops of food. And so many fi elds were fl ooded These things have happened before. that two-thirds of the country’s pop- But according to NOAA, the US Scientists now say that global warming ulation went hungry that autumn. government research agency, global is going to involve much more than a warm ing makes this weird weather bit of extra heat. With our pollution At the same time, an unprecedented 20 times more likely. trapping more of the sun’s energy heat wave was setting in across inside the Earth’s atmosphere, there Russia. It lasted for two months and This matters way beyond the corn- will be more weather of all sorts – killed more than 10,000 people, fi elds of Texas. North America is one heat waves and cold snaps, fl oods set off immense forest fi res and of the breadbaskets of the world, and droughts and hurricanes, says Jim destroyed a quarter of the country’s so its crops sell everywhere, and are Hansen of NASA’s Goddard Institute grain harvest. the vital back-up when there are for Space Studies, a top climate re- shortages or a famine in Africa. search outfi t in New York. This year More recently, Chinese scientists he proved statistically that weather blamed the massive fl oods in the And what is happening in North around the world is already getting north of the country in 2012 on glo- America looks like part of a global more variable, more jittery and more bal warming making the air there trend and a sign of unpredictable just plain weird. wetter, while back in the USA the east

Erna Lammers/UNEP/Topham Food or fuel?

iofuels are a great idea in theory. After all, fuels derived directly from living, growing matter – such Bas ethanol from maize and sugarcane and biodiesel from soy, rapeseed and palm oil – are renewable, and absorb atmospheric carbon as they grow. Brazil was the ﬁ rst to create a sustainable bioethanol industry, using sugar cane as feedstock. Then the USA followed suit, using maize to become the world’s largest producer of ethanol fuel in 2008.

But biofuel crops, many of which are also food commodities, use up the land, water and energy resources that we also

10 TUNZA Vol 10 No 3 D. Harms/Wildlife/Still Pictures Harms/Wildlife/Still D. biofuels ultimately save enoughingreenhouse gasemis- In addition,questions remain about whetherfood-based on importswillbeless able to afford to eat. prices may meanthatpeople inpoorer countries thatrely will alsogoup,aswell asthecost ofothergrains. Higher animal feed too, sotheprice ofmeatanddairyproducts but exports itto therest oftheworld. Maizeisastaple the USAnotonly dependsonmaizefor itsown food supply, This willhave ahugeknock-oneffect onworld food prices: pushing itsprice upto 60percent higherthannormal. summer 2012destroyed alarge portionofthe USmaizecrop, might notposeamajorproblem, except thatthedrought of 40 percent ofthe2012maizecrop beingusedasfuel.This and sellmaizefor fuelproduction. Thisisresulting inaround gasoline, andmaizefarmers are given subsidiesto produce requires oilreﬁ priority. IntheUSA,for example, arenewable fuelsmandate biofuels blended withpetrol meansthatfueloften takes government mandates to useaminimumpercentage of already puttingpressure onfood supplies.Nonetheless, need to grow food –atatimewhenourrisingpopulationis that isthebiggestproblemofall. to work outwhattoplantandwhen, clear bluesky. And, trying forfarmers comeoutofa weather will sometimes itself willalsochange. Wild andweird world warms, theday-to-day weather the new researchsays that, asthe atdifferenttimes. Butand planting adapting, choosingdifferentseeds Of course, willﬁ farmers some placesby asmuchhalf. temperatures couldcutharvests in bad news. thathigher Studiespredict Climate changewas always goingtobe weather willbelesspredictable. isthatthe when. The onebigcertainty whatwillhappenand sure exactly pend fortheirfood, be nobodycan rains, onwhich3billionpeoplede- forthe Asian monsoon predictability much longerthanbefore–tonew un- waves andcoldsnapsalike willlast –wherecrop-destroying heat America future. From EuropeandNorth Extreme weather isthe ofallsorts stormonrecord. largest Atlantic coast was Sandy, hitby Hurricane the Nebraska Soybean Board Kenichi Fujimoto/UNEP/Topham ners to blend apercentage ofethanolinto ght backby

Neil Cooper/Lineair/Still Pictures Michael S. Nolan/Specialist Stock Kadir Kir/UNEP/Topham options are scientifi wood from industry, oreven humanwaste. Allofthese wood harvested from fast-growing trees, algae,waste promise. Otherpossibilities includecreating fuelsfrom like jatropha andswitchgrass onmarginal landalsoholds rice hulls.Growing non-food, drought-resistant crops produced from agricultural wastes like cornhusks and forms. Onehopeliesinnext-generation, cellulosic biofuels discarded altogether, andresearchers are pursuing new This doesn’tmeanthatthebiofuelsideashould be harvests alsopushedupfood prices. well undertheexpected 35percent mark–while poorgrain greenhouse gassavingsofEuropean-produced biodieselfell Forest. Meanwhile, arecent Germanstudy reported thatthe pushing farmers to cutinto thealready fragmented Atlantic to deforestation. InBrazil, for example, demandfor fuelis sequestered carbon into theatmosphere andcontributes for new fi environmental problems asfood crops, andclearing land Biofuels require thesameresources andposethesame sions to justify competing withfood inthefi production viable onavast commercial scale. elds to grow bothfood andfuelreleases long- cally feasible; thediffi

Ng Chan Chien/UNEP/Topham Tim Alipalo/UNEP/Topham cult bitismaking rt place. rst Food 11 D. Harms/Wildlife/Specialist Stock The mulberrydykes but theonly otherenergy required issunshine. continuous cycle ofwater, waste andfood islabour-intensive, wastes are usedto fertilize thepondand feed thefi are harvested to feed silkworm farms, andthesilkworm to feed thefi fruit andmulberrytrees, andelephant grass that’s used taken for mushroom cultivation, andto fertilize vegetables, are drained afew timesayear andthenutrient-richmudis stocked withaquaticplantsandseveral fi around it.Thepondisfertilized withlocal inputsandthen deep isdug,andtheremoved soilusedto buildraised dykes First, apondupto 6,000square metres inarea and3metres with food andincome from fi wet for farming, andhelpssustain adensely populated region smart useofwastes inanarea that would otherwisebetoo agriculture. Introduced inthe16thcentury, thesystem makes that combines fi 12 the workers –andsofood producers ‘The factories thenbuyfood to feed small towns. communities that can beaslarge as who migrate from thevillages,forming The workforce ismadeupof people mand for products like electronics. accommodate agrowing global de- factory complexes are constructed to ‘On theedgesoflarge citiesinChina, LISA MA Farmifi I agriculture andindustry, urbanlifestyles andrural skills. to investigate how they live andwork, anexperience thatinspired apart-timefarming schemethatbringstogether spaces thatfall between established structures. In2011,shespentthesummeramongst factory workers inChina its mulberry-dyke fi n southernChina,thePearl River Delta region isfamous for TUNZA Vol 10 No 3 isayoung designerbasedin London whoisfascinated by the ‘fringe’–geographical andsocial sh andlivestock. Meanwhile, mulberryleaves sh aquaculture withsilkworm cultivation and sh-farm system –anartifi those ofnature. but powerful methods for makingagriculture meetourneedswhile working with There’s more thanoneway to grow food sustainably. Here are just afew unique sh sales. cation sh species.Ponds equals 230million fewer farmers. After all,230millionmigrant workers demands, relying more onimports. industry, Chinaisincreasing its food in workforce from agriculture to while, partly asa result ofthisshift owners to feed their workers. Mean- and itbecomes expensive for factory operations are too bigto close down, workloads fl become consumers. However, when cial ecosystem sh. This sh. uctuate, someofthe Another

John Novis/Greenpeace Small isbeautiful land thatcould beusedto cultivate oilpalminthisway. beneﬁ faith could result inhugeenvironmental, economic andsocial replicated inothercommunities, thisvillage’s smallleap of eradicated. Iftheefforts ofthesesmallholderfarmers can be oil as‘sustainable’, andpoverty andunemployment have been encroaching into theforest meanthey can market theirpalm Dosan’s efforts have proven successful: higheryieldswithout dams to keep thesoilmoist. replacing herbicideswithmanualweeding, andbuilding environmentally friendly practices suchasnoburning, hectares ofdegraded landto oilpalmcultivation anduses out destroying virgin forest. Thevillageconverted 700 I one community ismanagingapalmoilplantation with- n theIndonesianvillageofDosanineastern Sumatra, ts. Indonesiahastens ofmillionshectares ofdegraded and sustainable, butalsoto contribute make feeding thefactory more local vendors. Theideawasnotonly to at local markets and street-food in thecanteen butsoldfor proﬁ The produce could notonly beused as partofthefactory workers’ shift. the road from thefactory complex, farming on plots of land just across I came upwithanidea:part-time ‘As awayofaddressing theseissues, way

t www.greenpeace.org/international/en/campaigns/agriculture http://naturalfarming.org/CC-BY-SA-2.5 The one-straw revolution O In 1975,Fukuoka’s book amount offood to other Japanesefarms. these methods,hestill managedto produce acomparable crops, leaving nofallow periodsto encourage weeds. Using fl Fukuoka’s clover ground cover, straw mulch andonly brief a ground cover ofwhite clover. 3)Low-impact weeding. using only straw andsomepoultrymanure andbygrowing or prepared compost. Fukuoka addednutrientsto thesoil that tillingthesoilgives weeds afoothold. 2)Nofertilizer His principles included:1)Notilling.Fukuoka believed that interfered withnature aslittle aspossible. dictated. From thisfi copy nature, andstopped fl noticed rice growing amongst theweeds. Hedecidedto techniques, publishinghisfi to rehabilitate degraded landscapes through low-irrigation India, Southeast Asia,Europe andtheUSAto fi cultural sustainability. Healsotravelled through Africa, lated into 25languagesandmadehimaleader inagri- they persisted withtheFarmifi after Ileft andI’m notsure whether ‘The factory wasforced to downsize created aseriesofexperiments. was received with interest, andwe manufacturing skills. Theproposal even asthey learn andintegrate new their agricultural skillsandknowledge secure, andhelpingthemmaintain their situationmore economically their farming backgrounds, making giving themasenseofconnection to to thewell-being oftheworkers by Desert ooding kept weeds down, andherotated grain andrice past anunploughed fi ne day,asJapanesefarmer MasanobuFukuoka walked . Hefarmed untilhisdeathattheageof95in2008. rst step hedeveloped afarming system One-Straw Revolution One-Straw eld ontheislandofShikoku, he ooding hisrice fi ndings in ndings cation Sowing Seeds in the the in Seeds Sowing elds astradition with prejudice. many ofwhom still view agriculture feelings amongtheChinesepublic, This move hasbeenseenwithmixed after theproperty bubble hadburst. lack ofdemandfor raw materials starting to rear pigsto tideover the factories have beenreported as in industrial China:manylarge iron then, theideahasentered discourse scheme. ButIcan saythatsince gure outhow wastrans-

IITA Image Library Perennial choice testable perennial maizewithinadecade. adequate funding,scientists estimate we could have fi made into fl A wheat-wheatgrass hybridhasbeengrown, harvested and being madethanksto moderngene-sequencingtechnology. nial relatives withourdomesticated annuals.Progress is versions ofstaple grains bycross-breeding theirwildperen- Plant breeders are now working ondeveloping perennial every year. labour andenergy because they don’tneedto bereplanted intact andreduce thespread ofweeds. Andthey save bare for partoftheyear, perennials helpto keep thetopsoil polluting fertilizers. Unlike annuals,whichleave thesoil reducing rainwater runoff,the need for irrigationand systems thataccess water andnutrientsdeepinthesoil, But perennial plantshave benefi favoured traits, suchaslarger grains andhigheryields. candidates for selective breeding, allowing usto choose annuals needto bereplanted every year, they are good every year. There wasagoodreason for this:because and soon,whichsprout from seedanddieafter harvest W 10,000 years ago,we choseannuals:wheat,rice, corn hen humanbeingsstarted cultivating wildplants our undertest conditions, for example. Andwith food economy.’ nological demandsaffect theglobal conversation abouthow ourtech- zation andfarming, andto start a the relationship between industriali- Now isa good timeto re-examine but suchattitudescan bechanged. ture maybeseenasdisempowering, ‘The notionof“reverting” to agri cul- ts too, includingroot Food eld- 13

Nancy Adamson/Xerces Society/USDAgov/CC-BY-SA-2.0

K.B. Hemalatha/UNEP/Topham K.B. Brocken Inaglory/CC-BY-SA-3.0 Brocken H.C. Kappel/UNEP/Topham H.C. ies – as ies are threatened by ies are threatened by ying mammals, 26 species of ying mammals, cult to put a dollar value on the cult to put a dollar value ies, moths, beetles, bats and other beetles, moths, ies, or the reproductive process of most that provide 90 per cent of food for that provide ies, wasps, beetles butterﬂ and wasps, ies, avour, for example. And so harvests are And so harvests for example. avour, bee (see page 23). Melipona and owering plants, including more than two-thirds of food plants. including more than two-thirds plants, owering owering plants require animals for pollination – some, such as cereals, such as cereals, plants require animals for pollination – some, owering No 3 10 Vol

animals helping us pollinate our crops, the world would surely go hungry. surely go hungry. would the world animals helping us pollinate our crops, hink farming is a way of producing food that only needs people? Think only needs people? of producing food that hink farming is a way butterﬂ for wild bees, again! If it weren’t TUNZA

affected: a study of Costa Rican coffee ecosystems showed that pollination a study of Costaaffected: Rican by ecosystems showed coffee And forest contributed to 20 per cent higher yields. wild bees living in nearby because relationships is expensive pollinator-plant affect vanilla food prices: from away as it’s hand, it must be pollinated by when cultivated outside Mexico, the its natural pollinator, pollinator populations are in the world, that all over shows evidence Today, populations Honeybee America and in Europe and North decline. are collapsing, European butterfl wild bee colonies are vanishing. many Not all fl Until recently, we’ve taken this essential, valuable and freely provided service provided and freely taken valuable this essential, we’ve Until recently, in that, and well done their job so invisibly Animal pollinators have for granted. But now play. of the role they extent the full know don’t even we cases, many threatening farmers’ that pollinator populations evidence are declining, there’s and putting food security. livelihoods pressure on world seed production as wind – but for those that do, is affected, are pollinated by frequently that are more watermelons visited by as fruit development: well better colour and fl pollinators have Recognizing that there’s much we don’t know about the state of pollinators, don’t know much we that there’s Recognizing the United Nations on Biological Convention Diversity in 2002 established an International Initiative for the Conservation and Sustainable Use of Pollinators. running a programme to gather leads the initiative, data on plant The FAO require in terms what they trends in pollinator populations, pollination needs, of habitat identifying and corridors, and promoting alternatives to negative This human impacts and so on. with land-use practices, associated pesticides, information to encourage is used practices pollinator-friendly to help ensure diffi certain: while it’s One thing’s thrive. they well as birds and mammals, are necessary f as birds and mammals, well fl of the world’s mammal agricultural methods and changing land-use practices. Many intensive including and bird pollinators too, extinct, are considered threatened or species of non-fl 36 at least 45 species of bats, hummingbirds and 70 species of perching birds. simply can’t we do recognize now we services animal pollinators provide, without them. According to the Food and Agriculture Organization and to the Food According of the United Nations of the more than 100 crop species (FAO), most of the world’s countries, more than 70 per cent are pollinated by bees. But bees. by more than 70 per cent are pollinated countries, most of the world’s fl other insects – moths, not just bees: it’s 14

T beasts!

bugs bugs Food needs needs Food left thefruit, andisreadyforeating. itripens females outtofi females matewiththemales, whochew holesinthefruittoletpollen-covered andlaying thestigmas eggs. theostiole, pollinating Oncetheeggshatch,called thenew ofthefi are hiddeninsidethecavity • electromagnetic fi •electromagnetic •airpollution, whichmay impairbees’ tofi ability • thatreducetheavailability foodplants •herbicides andpesticides ofinsect • totheproblem,believe including: contributing theremay factors bemultiple point toaspecifi concern. ofserious the lastdecade, hasbeenmakingheadlinesasasubject Noonecan disorder’, thedeclineofhoneybee coloniesaroundthe world atermdescribing within pollinate around80percentofthefruitsandvegetables we eat. But ‘colony collapse we forgranted: take apples, peaches, strawberries, cherries, chocolate. Infact, honeybees That’s anexaggeration,butit’s truethatwithout bees, we’d bewithoutmuchofthefood No bees,nofood theseedsofwildbananas, anddispersing mangoes andguavas!for pollinating in andbiodiversity Texas.populations weAnd ofcourse alsohave fruitbatstothank ecosystems elsewhere. ofbatsinMexico could, Destruction forexample, agave affect inone from regiontoregion, disruption habitat and fi keystone species: many otheranimals, includingbees, moths, lizards, hummingbirds have coevolved, ofeachdependsontheother. andthatthesurvival They arealsoa night, openfl identifying called called anditsjuice, isharvested whichisfermentedintoabeverage foritsnectar cactus plant. thecentury plants,Also known particularly asagave, important thishistorically pollinatorofvarious desert andthesouthernUnited States, isanimportant country long-nosedbat( The Mexican Bats andcactus which arespecifi pollinated by anything otherthanthewasp. (Therearearound900fi breedanywhere(of thefamily butinsideafi can’t Agaonidae) It’s thatgoesbackaround60millionyears: arelationship the2-millimetrefi Figs andwasps fi Malaysia’s roseby 10milliontonneswithinabout andproduction oilpalmplantations, theplant.which feedsonthepollen, In1981, fertilized thisweevil was introducedto that inCameroon, wheretheplantoriginated, theweevil expensive hand-pollination. Subsequently, andtime-consuming learned researchers theybarely any pollinated. weren’t fruitbecause to getting Farmers hadtoresort owners discovered amajorproblem: thetrees, thoughthey seemedhealthy, produced When West oilpalmswere fi African Palms andweevils Windows ontheworld ofpollination ve years. toxic tobees) more become1,000times whichcan formacocktail incombination chemicals andfungicides–includingthoseusedtotreatanimals (certain insecticides and pests climate-change-inducedshiftsingrowing seasonsandrainfallpatterns, para eld micedependonplantspollinatedby these bats, they migrate andbecause pita pulque , whichareusedforweaving rope, matsandothertextiles. The batfeedsat and distilled into the spirits tequilaandmescal, aswell intothespirits asforitsfi anddistilled c singlereasonwhy thisishappening, nd new trees–the malesdyingsoonafterwards. Oncethewasps have andmutuallyadaptedtoeachother.)cally The fl elds fromsources suchaspower lines. owers by smell. believe Scientists thatthebatandagave may Leptonycteris nivalis g. Female wasps enterthefi inMalaysia cultivated rst inthe 1960s, plantation area couldhave aknock-on on effect ), whichmigratesbetween itsnative nd plants butaccordingtoUNEP, researchers Elaeidobius g, andthefi g throughanopening g andwasp species, fi of owers

kamerunicus be g cannot g wasp g g trees g sites bres, ,

John Severns/PD Marc Ryckaert/CC-BY-SA-3.0 Simon van Noort/Iziko Museums of South Africa Marco Schmidt/CC-BY-SA-2.5 Food 15 e know of 50,000 edible plant species, of which just three – maize, rice and wheat – are the staple foods of nearly two-thirds of Earth’s people. But some of the grains of ancient times are now making a Wcomeback. While they are unlikely to replace the three main staples in the near future, here are some that are increasingly appreciated for their culinary versatility, health-giving properties and environmental hardiness. Give them a try!

Specialist Stock P. Rocher/Biosphoto/Still Pictures M. Gunther/Biosphoto/Still Pictures Amaranth Quinoa Spelt

riginating in Central and ative to the Andes, quinoa cousin to wheat, spelt was OSouth America, amaranth N– which comes from the Acultivated in ancient Europe was a sacred crop to the Aztecs. goosefoot plant – was eaten as a and the Middle East, but fell out of Gods were represented in ritual staple by the Inca people and is favour because of its relatively low ceremonies with idols made of still eaten today. An annual that yield and its hard-to-remove outer amaranth grains and honey, which thrives at high altitudes in well- husk. Today, machinery allows spelt were worshipped, then broken up drained sandy soil, it’s a hardy to be processed at a commercial and eaten. This was so much like a crop that grows in cool conditions level, and the grain, with its bran Christian communion practice that with low rainfall, and in areas that and germ, offers a wider spectrum Spanish conquistadors tried to ban are otherwise marginal farmland. of nutrients than modern wheat. not only the ceremonies, but also the Quinoa, which is prepared like rice High in fi bre but also highly water cultivation of the plant. Thought to or couscous, is a rare vegetarian soluble, spelt is easier to digest have been domesticated up to 8,000 source of complete protein – it than wheat, and contains B-complex years ago, the fast-growing, drought- contains all the amino acids needed vitamins. A cup of cooked spelt has tolerant, frost-resistant leafy plant by the human body. This makes it about the same number of calories with bright fl owers produces highly something of a wonder food, and its as rice, but twice the protein and nutritious seeds and leaves that are popularity has grown spectacularly iron. Spelt also lowers the risk an important source of nutrients in in recent years – so much so that of Type II diabetes thanks to its Africa, Asia and Russia. Amaranth the FAO has designated 2013 as the magnesium content. The grain is contains high levels of protein, and International Year of Quinoa, which agriculturally robust: it removes four times the calcium found in will recognize the role played by fewer nutrients from the soil, is wheat – important for bone health. quinoa’s biodiversity and nutritional resistant to frost and disease and In South America, the leaves are value in providing food security. thrives without fertilizers even cooked like spinach, and the grains Farmers in the USA and Europe are on poor soils, while its thick husk prepared like rice or as a breakfast now investigating the possibility protects it from pollutants and porridge. Amaranth fl our can also be of growing varie ties of quinoa for insects. Now popular in health-food added to breads, pancakes and other both human consumption and stores, spelt is used as a substitute baked goods. In Mexico, the ancient animal feed in similar high-altitude for wheat in breads, and the cooked, practice survives of amaranth-seed environments. And the Space nutty spelt grains are a great rice skulls made of popped amaranth Agency NASA is considering quinoa substitute or basis for a salad. mixed with honey as a treat for as a food source for Mars-bound the Día de los Muertos – a day of astronauts. remembrance for friends and family who have died.

16 TUNZA Vol 10 No 3 ...and other Wondergrains opportunities THE GRASS PEA t can save the hungry in the short Iterm, even if it can ruin health in the long term. The drought-tolerant, ﬂ ood-tolerant grass pea (Lathyrus sativus), ﬁ rst cultivated around 8,000 years ago in the Mediterranean and today used in Bangladesh, Ethiopia, India and Pakistan, is extremely high in protein. Because it’s so hardy, it’s often the only food source available when other crops fail. The problem is, overconsumption can lead to permanent paralysis in adults and brain damage in children due to a neurotoxin present in the plant. Researchers are now trying to breed a low-toxin variety.

PD-USDA-ARS Stefan Auth/Imagebroker/Specialist Stock Millet Teff

illet is thought to be one of eff means ‘lost’, so called Mthe fi rst cultivated cereals, Tbecause of its tiny 1-millimetre dating back as much as 7,000 years diameter grain. Yet about a kilo of to ancient Asia and Africa, where it grains is enough to sow a 1-hectare still grows wild. There is evidence it fi eld – about 100 times less seed Bisayan Lady/CC-BY-SA Bisayan was cultivated in Switzerland during than is needed for wheat – and it the Stone Age, and it has been eaten cooks quickly. This lovegrass thrives in Northern Europe since the Iron in a vast variety of environments THE PRICKLY PEAR Age. Indeed, during the European – from sea level to high altitudes, Middle Ages, it was the staple grain from dry to waterlogged land – and othing survives dry conditions of the region. Millet is the small, is also resistant to disease. Thought Nlike cacti. The prickly pear round seed of several varieties of to have been fi rst domesticated in (Opuntia fi cus-indica) is native to grass, most popularly Pennisetum Ethiopia 6,000 years ago, teff is made Mexico, where it is cultivated on a glaucum, which is extremely hardy into a spongy fl at bread, injera, used large scale. Both the fruits, known in hot and dry climates and poor as an edible plate in Ethiopia and as tunas, and the pads, nopalitos, soils. Now mostly grown in Africa Eritrea. Today, its fame is spreading are delicious. The thirst-quenching and India, millet is still found in because of its nutrient value: it is young pads can be prepared as a many cuisines around the world: in almost as high in protein as quinoa, green vegetable, and the fruit is eaten South Asia it is made into fl atbreads contains the highest calcium of all fresh or made into jams and drinks. such as chapatti and roti. It has a grains and also provides Vitamin Prickly pear has been found to lower soft, creamy texture and is easy to C. Today, teff is being cultivated in blood cholesterol and provides large digest, is higher in calories than Australia, Canada, India and the amounts of Vitamin A, important wheat, and is full of heart-protecting USA, where it is used in breads, for eye health. Once sacred to the nutrients like magnesium and pancakes and other products, and Aztecs, the prickly pear is easy to phosphorus. Studies have shown its potential for other parts of the grow, gaining popularity in dry areas that magne sium is also effective in world is being investigated. around the world. It is also the host to protecting against Type II diabetes, cochineal insects, which are used for and millet promotes a steady rise in red dye and food colouring. blood glucose levels.

Food 17 T. Castelazo/CC-BY-SA 2.5 Castelazo/CC-BY-SA T. , ‘but the , ‘but the c techniques to the breeding the breeding to c techniques PROFESSOR CHRIS LEAVER PROFESSOR heat, maize and rice: there was a time when their there heat, maize and rice: thousands in the wild. Over grew only ancestors breeding, selective through however, of years, cient method. method. cient ciency question we are asking is too narrow. If we’re If we’re are asking is too narrow. ciency we question UN is forecasting an increase in population from 7 billion 7 billion from in population an increase UN is forecasting the amount double to need We 9 billion by 2050. to today maintaining all the while this century, produce we of food depend, on which we and ecosystems biodiversity the vital and a availability water of decreasing and in the face changing climate. up has kept of food supply the 1960s, the world’s ‘Since with the doubling of the human population. Much has methods and farming improved through been achieved of scientifi the application do that is to of plants and animals. But our challenge of land being used for the area again without increasing agriculture. that, appropriately of tools has a lot science ‘Today’s that farmers many of the processes improve applied, can W humankind domesticated them, to make them healthier them healthier them, to make humankind domesticated productive. and more says hunger,’ ending world to all committed are ‘We University’s Oxford water scarcity and high prices for fossil fuels – both fuels – both fossil high prices for scarcity and water seeking farming. If you’re industrial-scale essential for be more resilient, inevitably you’ll a system that can systems, which organic and near-organic towards move with and use methods that work fuels rely less on fossil crop rotation, the use of animals, and nature – including and matter into the soil to retain water ploughing organic build fertility. focus against organic farming tend to ‘Arguments need to Of course we on yields and productivity. what – though there are issues about people feed us eat – but perhaps the of and how much many effi we considering the long-term survival of humanity, vast amounts of must think about whether applying to soil depletion, chemicals to the land – which can lead and to pollinating wildlife pollution, damage water ability to feed – will ultimately harm our climate change of costs, up the full range weigh When you ourselves. is by far the more it could be argued that organic effi

H. Gaines/UW-Madison/USDAgov/CC-BY-3.0 Pleasantview Farm/USDAgov/CC-BY-3.0 No 3 10 Vol

nvironmentalist and sustainability campaigner campaigner sustainability and nvironmentalist of Friends Director JUNIPER was Executive TONY he Today, eight years. UK for of the Earth in the TUNZA

‘We have built our current society on the exploitation of society on the exploitation built our current have ‘We so this natural resources. But they are limited, the Earth’s will be one I think organic farming on forever. go can’t Discussions live. we of our responses, changing the way about organic farming often on nutritional health focus health, which rather than looking at environmental But the real also affects human health, by the way. of organic farming is about resilience argument in favour come into thinking – a concept that is beginning to is about the strength of Resilience security. about food under going to keep agricultural systems and their ability imminent shocks: shocks and pressure. There are two advises international food companies including Danone companies food advises international International Charles’ with HRH Prince and works of organic advocate Unit. A long-time Sustainability to TUNZA about why talked Tony practices, farming but a necessary is not a luxury, agriculture organic-style into the future. ourselves be feeding we’ll part of how 18

E Are we asking the right questions? right the asking we Are Justin Treharne/LoveTextures/CC-2.0 Justin cassava’s storage qualities andto increase itsnutritional techniques to introduce diseaseresistance, to improve is lost. Asaresult, scientists are usinggeneticbreeding and disease;insomeareas upto 80percent ofthe crop Latin America, for example, isvery susceptible to pests staple for hundreds ofmillions people across Africa and grown islost between thefi food andreduce waste –around 40percent ofallfood ‘We’re alsoworking to increase thenutritionalvalue of need for theapplication ofagrichemicals. and have natural diseaseandpest resistance, reducing the increased yieldsandfl sprays. Buttoday we are working to breed plants thathave cotton andmaizereduce theneedfor insecticidal insect-resistant crops thatimprove yieldandqualityin more easily. Amajorsuccess hasbeenthelaunchof allowing farmers to increase yieldsbycontrolling weeds sis wasonmakingplantsresistant to specifi ‘When thesetechniques were fi don’t, injust afew years. characteristics we needinto aplant,orbreed outoneswe and genetechnology allow usto reliably andsafely breed have beenusingfor centuries. Modernplantbreeding Making themostofwhat we’ve got world, orarewe going to wait for catastrophe?’ got achoice:would we like toplanfor thatchanging input, high-resiliencefarming.Inthemeantime,we’ve away fromhigh-input,low-resiliencefarmingtolow- shift near-organic farming;rather, it’s aquestionofwhenwe it’s notreallyaquestionofwhetherwe doorganicand especially ontheheelsof2012USdrought–Ithink ‘Looking atrecentassessmentsoffood security– Ethiopia, for example, thesearehighlyproductive. local, labour-intensive organicways offarming.In societal ones,couldbeachieved byencouragingsome model. Considerablefood-security gains,aswell as species –bothofwhichreinforce theindustrialfarming transgenic GMOs –thosethatmove genes between rightsclaimedandthepesticidesrequiredfor property for example, abouttheintellectual althoughIworry could helpacceleratetheprocessofselective breeding, hasaroletoplay.certainly Somegenetic technologies covers anumberofdifferentmethods.Technology is theonlyway togo –thetermorganic,Ishouldadd, ‘It’s allaboutastyleoffarming,notsimplysayingorganic ourish withless water orfertilizer eld andyour fork. Cassava, a rst developed, theempha- c herbicides, c Professor Chris Leaver, Emeritus Professor in the the in Professor Emeritus Leaver, Chris Professor the benefi bioscientists learn from andare dedicated to enhancingfor The wonderful bountyofthenatural world iswhat all we needliving,vibrant plantsandcommunities ofplants. challenges. Itisnotenoughjust to maintain seedbanks – there thatwe willfi concerned to maintain, andnotdamage,biodiversity. Itis ‘All ofusinvolved inthebiosciences are extremely tance andproviding additionalfood andfodder. farmers to interplant different crops, improving pest resis- example, while encouraging otherwildlife –have allowed of thecharacteristics ofplants–repelling someinsects,for making changesto plants.Careful observation andanalysis ‘But notallthetechniques usedinthe biosciences involve compounds thatoccur naturally inthecrop. vitamin Aitcontains while reducing thelevel ofharmful value byraising thelevels ofzinc,iron, protein andpro- Department of Plant Sciences, University of Oxford, is the the is Oxford, of University Sciences, Plant of Department Senior Scientifi Senior in Africa initiative (www.b4fa.org), supported by the the by supported (www.b4fa.org), initiative Africa in

Templeton Foundation. Templeton Hartmut Schwarzback/Argus/Specialist Stock Lance Cheung/PD-USDA t ofhumankind.’ c Advisor to the Bioscience for Farming Farming for Bioscience the to Advisor c nd solutionsto existing andemerging Food

19 Justin Treharne/LoveTextures/CC-2.0 Justin he world faces the nightmare possibility The last of fi shless oceans by 2050.’ That was ‘Tthe message of a 2010 UNEP report that concluded that 30 per cent of the world’s fi sh stocks have already collapsed. And according to the Food wild catch and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), more than 70 per cent of the world’s fi sh species are either fully exploited or depleted. In the North Atlantic region, for example, commercially exploitable populations of cod, hake, haddock and fl ounder have fallen by as much as 95 per cent – and may require a zero-catch policy to allow them to regenerate. Some species, like bluefi n tuna, are close to extinction. These are potentially catastrophic warnings for world food security: a billion people, mostly from poorer countries, rely on fi sh as their main source of animal protein.

Jorgen Freund/Aurora/Specialist Stock An oversized fl eet scientists propose catch limits to help keep populations sustainable, management bodies don’t necessarily heed Part of the problem is that there are simply too many of their advice, often setting limits that far exceed the us fi shing. According to the United Nations, there are 35 recommended quota. million people fi shing around the world on 20 million boats – that’s a fl eet that’s two and a half times larger Setting waters aside than the oceans are able to support without depleting stock. This is exacerbated by the fact that we are such One logical solution is to set aside marine areas for effi cient hunters. Big, government-subsidized fi shing conservation, and there are some such areas. But so fl eets of ever larger boats are technologically capable far, only 1.2 per cent of the world’s oceans have been of harvesting too many fi sh at once from previously designated marine protected areas (MPAs) as defi ned hard-to-reach deep-sea environments. Because deep- by the International Union for Conservation of Nature sea fi sh species such as monkfi sh, Patagonian toothfi sh (IUCN): ‘A clearly defi ned geographical space, recognized, (often sold as Chilean sea bass) and orange roughy grow dedicated and managed, through legal or other effective and reach sexual maturity slowly, they are particularly means, to achieve the long-term conservation of nature vulnerable to intensive fi shing. Once populations are with associated ecosystem services and cultural values’. damaged, recovery can take generations. In the last Even within this defi nition, it’s not always clear whether 50 years, numbers of large predatory fi sh in the deep a reserve can really be considered an MPA. The IUCN oceans, such as marlin, swordfi sh and sharks, have strives to create strong guidelines, but the truth is that dropped by 90 per cent. some reserves called MPAs include areas exploited for tourism or for harvesting fossil fuels or wind energy, for Wasteful habits example. In any case, of those currently recognized as MPAs, less than 1 per cent have been designated ‘no-take’ Another problem is waste: fi shing fl eets haul up and (fi shing-forbidden) zones protecting young fi sh so that throw away 20 million tonnes of unwanted ‘by-catch’ they can grow to maturity. every year, killing and discarding unprofi table species, and surplus or juvenile fi sh. By-catch also includes such Eating wisely endangered wildlife as dolphins, porpoises and small whales, loggerhead and leatherback turtles, sharks, Unfortunately, there’s no easy way of knowing whether seabirds and corals, sponges, starfi sh and more. Such a particular seafood item comes from an unsustainable practices damage not just individual species but the source – though that is the case for the majority of what is marine ecosystems that support them. available for us to buy. But there is a growing movement for identifying sustainability. The Marine Stewardship Poor management Council (MSC) is a non-profi t organization that en- courages seafood harvested within sustainable limits Governments and ministries try to implement fi shing using sustainable methods, and that minimizes the impact quotas and sound fi sheries management, but it’s very on marine ecosystems. Consumers who buy seafood diffi cult to monitor activities – much less enforce with the MSC logo – including both fresh products and guidelines or laws governing fi shing practices – out processed foods such as tinned tuna – can be assured at sea. In the case of the high seas, there are very few that they are support ing sustainable fi shing, voting with international fi shing regulations in place. And while their dollars while enjoying guilt-free meals.

20 TUNZA Vol 10 No 3 From wild to farmed There has long been argument about whether aquaculture – the alternative to wild-harvested fi sh – is better or worse for the environment. While farmed fi sh like salmon or prawns take some of the pressure off wild fi sh populations, they also raise such environmental issues as wastewater pollution; the loss of wild habitat such as mangrove forests; pharmaceuticals such as antibiotics; concerns that farmed fi sh escape and compete with wild species; the spread of parasites and diseases; and the use of wild-caught fi sh for fi sh feed. The newly formed Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC), like its cousin the MSC, works with the aquaculture industry, setting standards for sustainable aquaculture, and likewise gives its seal of approval to fi sh farms and their products that meet strong environmental sustainability requirements. So far, ASC standards for abalone, bivalves, tilapia and the catfi sh pangasius have been fi nalized, while standards for trout, salmon and shrimp will be completed by the end of 2012, followed by standards for seriola (also known as amberjack) and cobia (also known as ling).

It really can happen... For centuries, fi shermen in the North West Atlantic, off Newfoundland, relied on the seemingly plentiful cod stocks for their livelihoods. But in 1992, after decades of overfi shing using trawlers, the cod disappeared, leaving 10,000 fi shermen without jobs overnight. Today, the cod have still not recovered, and scientists believe that the ecosystem has been damaged to the point where they may never return in high enough numbers to sustain an industry. C. Gomersall/Wildlife BOUNTY OF THE SEA Some unusual foods we get from the sea... Samphire

Samphire, also known as glasswort, is a sea vegetable that grows plentifully on coastal shorelines and tidal mudﬂ ats. There are several species that grow in the United Kingdom, across Eurasia and in Australia, but all are edible. Crunchy and tasting of the sea, it can be eaten raw in salads or sandwiches, or gently cooked like asparagus to accompany seafood dishes.

Jellyﬁ sh D. Harms/Wildlife

As ocean ecosystems change, threatening biodiversity, at least one creature seems to be thriving – jellyfi sh. They’re plentiful, hardy, and even survive in oceanic dead zones. The Chinese have long eaten jellyfi sh as a traditional delicacy, and despite their reputation as stingers, about a dozen jellyfi sh varieties are edible. The tentacles are removed before the jellyfi sh is soaked in brine, and then dried. Jellyfi sh is typically served as a cold appetizer, shredded and tossed with soy sauce, vinegar and sesame oil. It has an elastic crunch and a slight fl avour of calamari (squid).

Seaweed Dan90266/CC-BY-SA-2.0

Known as laver in Wales and slake in Ireland, zicai in China and nori in Japan, this edible coastal alga has been eaten for centuries. Belonging to the family of red algae, it is particularly high in dietary minerals like iron and iodine, giving it a ﬂ avour reminiscent of olives. It can be boiled to a pulp and eaten with toast in the traditional Welsh way, added to Chinese and Korean soups, or used to wrap parcels of

sushi, Japanese style. GameKeeper/PD

Food 21

c value is well known, though many many though known, is well c value Aruna at ml.wikipedia/CC 3.0 ml.wikipedia/CC at Aruna avour: piripiri in Africa, Middle Eastern Eastern Middle piripiri in Africa, avour: . So prized was it that Arab traders kept its source its source kept traders . So prized was it that Arab have been using spices to enhance and preserve preserve and enhance to using spices been have

Black pepper – to provide kick and ﬂ provide – to PEOPLE food and to treat ailments for more than 50,000 years. Those that Those that than 50,000 years. more ailments for treat and to food rich. But over grew prized goods in such highly trade the controlled creasingly made them in has cultivation widespread the millennia, of their scientiﬁ Much available. Here being investigated. still uses are medicinal of their traditional good and, frankly, valued used, greatly widely that are seven just are you. for

lmost all the world’s cuisines use chillies – several species of the genus chillies – several cuisines use all the world’s lmost Capsicum native of Sri Lanka, cinnamon is harvested from the inner bark of the tree the inner bark of the tree from of Sri Lanka, cinnamon is harvested native Cinnamomum zeylanicum ammatory properties, and might properties, ammatory Chillies A harissa, ají in South America or Scotch bonnets in the Caribbean, for example. example. in the Caribbean, for bonnets or Scotch ají in South America harissa, goes back at least of cultivation evidence where in the Americas, Chillies originated dried, fresh, eaten and are over, the world cultivated they’re Now eight millennia. and metabolism suppressant as an appetite crushed. Chillies work or powdered that the substance capsaicin, versatile Medicinally cholesterol. lower and booster, and releases wounds, to externally pain when applied chillies hot, relieves makes external and internal helps stop Cayenne pain-killing endorphins when eaten. also Chillies are pressure. blood regulate to eating it is reputed while bleeding, C than citrus fruit. And richer in Vitamin A and are of Vitamin source an excellent from elephants prevent to fences build chilli-impregnated farmers Africa, in East harming their crops. , a vine that can grow to a length of a length to grow , a vine that can Cinnamon A Today, with its branches. building their nests of giant birds spinning tales secret, Eastern Middle as in savoury as well and confectionery, used in desserts widely it’s stimulate to been found – it’s too medicinal properties, dishes. Cinnamon has great a Japanese quickly; more information process to people function, allowing brain a German one while ulcers, stomach cinnamon helps prevent suggested study In infections. and candida urinary tract that cause the bacteria it suppresses found help keep to the cinnamon plant has been found from extracted India, a molecule discovered accidentally in the USA, scientists healthy, while people HIV-infected the due to them lowered pie actually apple sugars, blood than raising that, rather cinnamon content.

Daniel Risacher/GFDL/CC-BY-SA-2.5 L. Shyamal/CC-BY-SA-3.0 Piper nigrum spices

ed with a black peppercorn in each nostril, and pepper was so highly and pepper was so highly in each nostril, ed with a black peppercorn No 3 10 Vol

ative to the state of Kerala in India, black peppercorns have been traded have black peppercorns in India, of Kerala state the to ative Ramses II was pharaoh In 1213 BC, the Egyptian 4,000 years. at least for TUNZA

22 N mummiﬁ Black peppercorns, that it was used as currency. Europe in medieval valued the unripe, are aroma, their pungent without losing years for stored be which can and dried fruits of fermented

more than 10 metres. The same fruit, differently processed, also produces fragrant fragrant also produces processed, The same fruit, differently than 10 metres. more were properties antibacterial ones. Pepper’s green and fresh peppercorns white food meats and making rancid as a way of preserving refrigeration prior to valued of diabetes symptoms relieve used to medicine, it’s In ayurvedic palatable. more active that pepper’s discovered research Recent aid digestion. and anaemia and to anti-infl piperine, has pain-relieving, compound, condition. of vitiligo, a skin pigmentation be useful in the treatment 7 B P smoke ofburning bayto stimulate hallucinatory visions. it thattheprophetic priestesses attheTemple ofApollo inDelphiinhaled the compounds that have beenfound to relieve migraines. Butbewarned,legend has is usedto relieve sprains andother muscle aches.Bayalsocontains parthenolides, also agreat source ofVitamins AandCaswell asiron andmanganese, while itsoil Ancient Greeks useditto soothebeestings, anditisstill usedto aiddigestion. Itis leaf, fresh ordried,isusedto fl athletes attheOlympic Gameswere awarded baygarlands.Today, the aromatic reached Africa andtheCaribbeanby the16thcentury. a meatdishstewed withginger. Ithasbeentraded since the5thcentury, and clues pointto India,andthe4thcentury Hinduepic,the where gingeroriginally came from asit’s nolonger found inthewild.Biological plant’s effectiveness inpreventing bowel andovarian cancer. Nooneisquite sure travel sickness andto improve digestion. Researchers are alsoinvestigating the cakes, andmuchmore. Medicinally, itisusedextensively to alleviate jointpainand pickle, asfl rized for itswarmingproperties, therhizomeofgingerplant( ancient Greece andRome.Poets andemperors were crowned withbay,while ay ( offi cinale Laurus nobilis Laurus avouring for BritishandAmerican gingerbeerandwine,inAfrican ) isusedextensively inThaiandIndiancurries,asadelicate Japanese ) hasbeenassociated withhonourandglory since thedaysof

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Everglades National Park/PD-USgov National Everglades Chillapple Group Chillapple Cloves N boasts more than3millionclove trees. the East African islandsofZanzibarinthe19thcentury, andstill today Pemba Island fl easing digestion. Clove isalsousedasaningredient inincense, valued for bothits Its warmingqualitiesare usedto relieve achingmuscles, andit’s known for and anaesthetic: itsnumbingeffect makes itapopularremedy for dental problems. in European apple piesandmulled wine.Medicinally, clove oilisalocal antiseptic spice, India’s freshener, andisacrucialingredient inculinarymixtures includingChinesefi tall. Resembling smallblacknails,thespice wasusedinChinaasabreath pollinated byhummingbirds andthe Europe bytheSpanishconquistador, Cortez. Butbecause vanilla isonly naturally indians. TheAztecs useditto fl climbing tropical orchid native to Mexico, where itwasfi I rich, sweet fragrance. Thevanilla podorbeancomes from a bambooskewer. Asimilartechnique isstill usedfor vanilla cultivation today. old slave-boy EdmondAlbiusfi outside Mexico failed until,inthe19thcentury ontheislandofRéunion,12-year- ammable properties anditsfragrance. TheSultan ofOmanintroduced cloves to Vanilla cream fl t’s hard to imagineaworld withoutvanilla –theworld’s most popularice- of theevergreen ative to theMolucca IslandsofIndonesia,cloves are thedriedfl avour –notto mentionthehost ofcakes anddesserts thatrely onits garam masala garam Mahabharata Syzgium aromaticum Syzgium Ginger , mentions andtheMoroccan Zingiber Zingiber gured outhow to hand-pollinate thefl Bay avour theirchocolate, anditwasbrought to Melipona

Jan De Laet, plantsystematics.org Venkatx5/CC-BY-SA-3.0 , whichcan grow to around 6metres bee,attempts to produce thepods ras el hanout el ras rst usedbytheTotanoco . Cloves alsofeature Vanilla planifolia Vanilla owers with ower buds ower Food ve ve , a 23 magazine asoneofthegreatest singers ofalltime. has inspired generations ofyoung singers andwon four Grammy Awards. Shehasbeenhailed by ‘little girlwiththebigvoice’ –still anaptdescriptionfor thediminutive singerwhoseextraordinarily powerful voice When CHRISTINAAGUILERA wasachildperformer growing upinStatenIsland,New York, shewasknown asthe Photos: WFP/Rein Skullerud AGAINST HUNGER A BIGVOICE N television, andhasappeared ina promotional videosinging Aguilera spreads theword aboutWorld HungerReliefon and strengthen theirbusinesses. them inamore secure market, allowing themto innovate it purchases produce from local farmers to helpestablish AIDS. To improve food securityinimpoverished countries, exchange for work, andfeeds people livingwithHIVand to helpyoung children stay ineducation, offers food in emergency rations, theWFPalsoprovides schooldinners famine, drought andpolitical upheaval. Besidesproviding 100 millionpeople insome70countries affected bywar, itarian hunger-relief organization, annually feeding around Established in1963,theWFPisworld’s largest human- of dollars. far, herefforts inthisrole have helpedraise tens ofmillions fast-food corporation Yum! Brands thatbenefi spokeswoman for theWorld HungerReliefcampaign runby her anAmbassador Against Hunger. Sheisalsotheoffi 2010, theUNWorld Food Programme (WFP)named world’s biggest stars to helpalleviate hunger. In ow thesingerisusingherstatus asoneofthe ts theWFP. So cial keep onworking.’ people’s eyes sothatWFPcan getthefundsitneeds to are malnourished. ‘Iwantto raise awareness andopen highlands, where 80percent oftheindigenouschildren she saidduringatripto visitvillagesintheGuatemalan nutrients they need,we can never fix thedamagelater on,’ growing children. ‘Ifachildundertwo doesn’tget the ularly concerned to highlighttheneedto provide food to A motherherself to four-year-old Max,Aguilera ispartic- children andhelpthemrebuild theirlives,’ shesaid. a donation,sowe can bringfood to thesemothers and ‘I urge everyone to goto www.wfp.org/christina andmake where shewasmoved bytheplightofmothers andchildren. magnitude 7.0earthquake. Shealsotoured refugee camps beans to children atlocal schoolsshortly after the2010 after avisitto Port-au-Prince, where sheserved rice and in Haitibutalsobythespiritofitspeople,’ saidAguilera communities rebuild. ‘Iwassomoved bythedevastation how hungeraffects lives, andhow food assistance helps that receive food aid,suchasHaitiandGuatemala, to see a LosAngeles street corner. Shealsovisitscommunities her international hitballad Beautiful to arapt audience on Rolling Stone Rolling