1 The Best of

The largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, Sicily is a land of beauty, mystery, and world-class monuments. It’s an exotic mix of bloodlines and architecture from medieval Normandy, Aragonese , Moorish North Africa, , Phoenicia, and . Much of the island’s raw, primitive nature has faded in modern times, as thousands of newfangled cars clog the narrow lanes of its biggest city, . Poverty remains widespread, yet the age-old stranglehold of the Mafia seems less certain thanks to the increasingly vocal protests of an outraged public. On the eastern edge of the island is , the highest active volcano in Europe. Many of Sicily’s larger urban areas (Trapani, , and Messina) are relatively unattractive, but areas of ravishing beauty and eerie historical interest are found in the cities of Syracuse, Taorm- ina, , and . Sicily’s ancient ruins are rivaled only by those of Rome itself. Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples, for example, is worth the trip alone.

1 THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

• Walking among the Dead: Outside Kalsa, the heart of the quarter, and the Palermo, the Catacombe dei Cappuc- day is yours. See p. 104. cini amazingly preserve the lifelike • Encountering the Sicilian Apennines: corpses of some 8,000 Palermitans The island isn’t all coastline, even entombed here from the late 16th cen- though most visitors rarely dip into the tury until 1920, when the last victim, a hinterlands. For a close-up view of life 2-year-old bambina, was laid to rest. In as lived in the “Sicilian Alps,” head dimly lit, murky, subterranean corri- inland to explore Sicily’s greatest dors, you can wander among these national park, Parco Naturale Regionale mummies. It’s a gory sight, but it’s delle Madonie, sprawling across 39,679 absolutely fascinating. See p. 104. hectares (98,049 acres). Castles dotting • Wandering Palermo’s La Kalsa: The the park’s lofty villages evoke the Mid- ancient quarter of La Kalsa, created dle Ages; the town of Cefalù makes the during the city’s Arab domination, is as best base. This area is the breadbasket of close as Sicily comes to having a casbah Sicily, so you’ll pass through pretty typical of the North African cities to the farms and vineyards. Fields ideal for a south. This densely populated district summertime picnic give way to down- of narrowCOPYRIGHTED streets and markets provides hill skiersMATERIAL in winter. See p. 156. a view of local Sicilian life unlike any- • Climbing the volcano: Follow in the where else on the island. To make your footsteps of the “disgraced” Ingrid Berg- experience more authentic, purchase man, who came here in 1949 with her some babbaluci from one of the many lover and director, Roberto Rossellini, vendors. (These are marinated baby to make the ill-fated film Stromboli. On snails sold in paper cones for devouring the Aeolian island of Stromboli, the on the spot.) Head for Piazza della most spectacular of its archipelago, you 4 can witness showers of flaring rock and prefer to take along a bathing suit. This sparks from its volcano. For the most wonderland is the place to be a kid dramatic viewings, visit at night, when again: There’s nothing quite like splash- you can witness up close the channels ing around in these cooling waters. See from which the lava flows toward the p. 194. sea along sciara del fuoco, or “trails of • Visiting medieval : This once fire.” At the top, you’ll be treated to heavily fortified and walled mountain fiery explosions, a great show that’s town, left over from the Middle Ages, is gone on for centuries. Just wear some- suspended 755m (2,477 ft.) above sea thing over your coiffure so that you, level. Ancients called the city , and too, don’t light up the night. See a glorious golden temple dedicated to p. 184. Aphrodite at the pinnacle of the town • Cooling off in Gole dell’Alcantara: was like a gleaming lighthouse for Often visited from Taormina en route ancient mariners. You can wander its to Mount Etna, the Alcantara lava cobblestone streets and peer into flower- gorges are the best place to experience filled courtyards along twisting lanes. almost freezing waters when the tem- Nothing seems as foreboding as a walk peratures in eastern Sicily soar from down a vanelle, an alley so narrow that May to September. These gorges were only one person can pass at a time. THE BEST OF SICILY OF BEST THE carved by a river of the same name into Many Sicilian men journey here look- 1 rock-hard basalt, the creation of one of ing for a wife, as the women of Erice Mount Etna’s ancient eruptions. You have been considered the most beauti- can rent thigh-length boots, but many ful in Sicily for centuries. See p. 301.

2 THE MOST ROMANTIC GETAWAYS

• Atelier Sul Mare (Castel di Tusa; • Hotel Villa Sonia (Castelmola; & 0942- & 0921-334295; www.ateliersulmare. 28082; www.hotelvillasonia.com): High com): Far off the beaten path is the above the resort of Taormina, this 1974 most iconoclastic hotel on the island, old-style villa is a true retreat for escap- created by an artist who has anointed ists. It’s a cozy, tranquil nest, with beau- himself the “Ambassador to Beauty.” tiful public areas and rooms opening Some of the rooms are the creative onto spectacular views. Its restaurant is

THE MOST ROMANTIC GETAWAYS ROMANTIC MOST THE statements of renowned artists who so excellent, you won’t want to leave the lived on the premises for months and premises at night. See p. 201. made their rooms works of art. See • Villa del Bosco (Catania; & 095- p. 164. 7335100; www.hotelvilladelbosco.it): • Palazzo San Domenico (Taormina; Few island hotels evoke the stately aris- & 0942-613111; www.sandomenico. tocratic life of the 19th century as does thi.it): No other hotel in Sicily offers this estate, 5km (3 miles) south of the the sweeping majesty of this time-tested center of Catania. Once a private home, icon whose rooms were installed in a it has been successfully converted into a 15th-century monastery. Grand com- first-class hotel that often attracts celeb- fort on a deluxe level goes hand in hand rities. Its on-site restaurant is another with such charming ecclesiastical reason to stay here. See p. 220. touches as Madonnas in wall niches and • Eremo della Giubiliana (Ragusa; centuries-old depictions of saints pray- & 0932-669119): A stone-built estate ing in ecstasy. See p. 196. in sunny isolation, this is a baronial compound of refinement and grace. A • Foresteria Baglio della Luna (Agri- 5 stay here is like a visit to the grand gento; & 0922-511061; www.baglio country estate of some Sicilian don of dellaluna.com): This is one of the grand- the non-Mafia type. All the luxuries of est country inns of Sicily, meticulously the 21st century are found here, as well restored by an antiques dealer and turned as fine dining, but the aura is definitely into a glamorous oasis of style, comfort, Old World. See p. 275. and elegance. Agrigento never had such a stylish place to stay. See p. 288.

3 THE BEST MUSEUMS

• Galleria Regionale della Sicilia (Pal- collection of art from the 15th to the THE BEST OF SICILY ermo; & 091-6230011): This is the 17th century. See p. 102. most magnificent collection of regional • Museo Civico (Termini Imerese; art in all of Sicily—in fact, the gallery is & 091-8128279): Housed in a 14th- one of the finest in . Housed in the century palazzo (palace) is one of the Catalán-Gothic Palazzo Abatellis, its finest regional museums in Sicily, superb collections trace Sicilian paint- devoted to art and archaeology. The ing and sculpture from the 13th to the Hellenistic and Roman pottery are 18th century. Some of its paintings, among its greatest treasures; the such as Triumph of Death from 1449, museum is also rich in medieval and 1

are among the most impressive master- Renaissance art. See p. 167. THE BEST MUSEUMS pieces in the south of Italy. See p. 102. • Museo Archeologico Eoliano (Lipari; • Museo Archeologico Regionale (Pal- & 090-9880174): One of the great ermo; & 091-6116805): One of the archaeological museums of Italy lies greatest archaeological museums in Italy hidden away on the volcanic Aeolian is filled with a virtual “British Museum” island of Lipari. Among its many cele- collection of rare finds that is particu- brated exhibits are a stunning collection larly rich in artifacts from the Greek of ancient vases, many from the 4th and Roman colonization of the island. century b.c., and a magnificent trove of The metopes dug up from the city of theatrical masks unearthed from tombs Selinunte alone are worth a visit. See of the same era. See p. 174. p. 102. • Museo Civico Belliniano (Catania; • Museo Mandralisca (Cefalù; & 0921- & 095-7150535): This museum pays 421547): Come here for no other reason homage to the composer Vincenzo Bell- than to gaze in wonder at Antonello da ini, who was born here in 1801. The Messina’s Portrait of an Unknown Man, drab five-room apartment evokes old painted in 1465. It is the masterpiece of Catania and is filled with Bellini mem- this great Sicilian artist. While here, orabilia, including original folios of his check out the other art treasures of this operas, his death mask, and even the regional museum, including everything coffin in which his body was transferred from a Chinese puzzle in ivory to a vase from Paris. See p. 227. from the 4th century b.c. See p. 159. • Museo Archeologico Regionale Paolo • Museo Regionale (Messina; & 090- Orsi (Syracuse; & 0931-464022): This 361292): A former silk mill has been is a showcase for some of the most successfully converted into one of the important archaeological finds of south- island’s most impressive regional muse- ern Italy. Especially intriguing are ums, one that contains Sicily’s greatest the showrooms devoted to the Greek 6 colonization of Sicily, including the cele- Bellomo. The collections are finest in brated Landolina Venus. See p. 250. the painting and decorative arts of • Museo Regionale di Arte Mediovale e southeastern Sicily and include such Moderna (Syracuse; & 0931-69511): masterpieces as The Burial of St. Lucia, One of Sicily’s greatest art collections is by Caravaggio. See p. 255. housed in the 13th-century Palazzo

4 THE BEST CATHEDRALS & CHURCHES

• Chiesa di Santa Cita/Oratorio del of the glory of Arabo-Norman art and Rosario di Santa Cita (Palermo): The architecture. Launched in 1174 by Wil- church of Santa Cita, bombed in World liam II, the Duomo is the most stun- War II, is visited mainly for its stunning ning of the Norman churches of Sicily, oratory, representing the crowning the mosaics in its interior rivaling those architectural achievement of sculptor of the celebrated Cappella Palatina in Giacomo Serpotta, who labored on it Palermo. See p. 134. between 1686 and 1718. His cherubs • Duomo (Cefalù): One of Sicily’s most and angels are a real romp. See p. 106. magnificent Norman cathedrals, built THE BEST OF SICILY OF BEST THE • Oratorio del Rosario di San Domen- by Roger II, stands in this charming ico (Palermo): This 16th-century ora- little north-coast town. The cathedral is 1 tory is the stunning achievement of known for its grand array of Byzantine- sculptor and baroque decorator extraor- Norman mosaics, completed in 1148. dinaire Giacomo Serpotta. To many, it They are a virtual tour de force of this is the equal of the also glorious Santa type of painstaking art. See p. 151. Cita oratory (see above). Serpotta’s • Duomo (Catania): Dedicated to the stucco designs are among the greatest in martyred St. Agatha, this cathedral was southern Italy. See p. 106. built on the orders of Roger I, the Nor- • Oratorio di San Lorenzo (Palermo): man king, and was largely destroyed in This is yet another great oratory that the earthquake that devastated Catania shows the magnificent decoration of in 1693. What was left was redesigned master sculptor Giacomo Serpotta, who with parts that survived the catastrophe. created this masterpiece between 1698 The great opera composer Bellini is and 1710. See p. 106. buried here, as are several Aragonese • Duomo (Monreale): This kings. See p. 226.

THE BEST & MOST EVOCATIVE RUINS EVOCATIVE MOST & BEST THE grand cathedral represents the pinnacle

5 THE BEST & MOST EVOCATIVE RUINS

• Tyndaris (Capo ): Tyndaris was • Teatro Greco (Taormina): Opening a bustling place at its founding by Dio- onto a view of Mount Etna in the back- nysius the Elder in 396 b.c. Later ground, this Greek amphitheater was destroyed by pillaging conquerors, Tyn- hewn out of a rocky slope on Mount daris has now been unearthed, and the Tauro. What you see today is what’s left ruins of everything from a basilica to a after destruction by the Arabs in the Roman theater can be seen. The view 10th century. See p. 192. of the sea is reason enough to visit. See • Ortygia Island (Syracuse): Famous in p. 165. Greek mythology, this island is filled with ancient ruins such as the Tempio di ancient Greek ruins in the world, the 7 , the Greek temple dedicated to Valley of the Temples, outside the city Apollo that dates from the 6th century of Agrigento, opens onto the southern b.c. and the oldest peripteral (having a coast of Sicily. The temples are espe- single row of columns) Doric temple still cially stunning at night, when they’re left in the world. See p. 254. floodlit. The most impressive ones are • Parco Archeologico della Neapolis those dedicated to Juno and to Con- (Syracuse): Two of the greatest attrac- cord. The latter is the most magnificent tions of Sicily—both from the world of of all, with 13 wind-eroded columns the ancients—lie in this city in south- still standing. See p. 283. eastern Sicily. The Greek Theater is one • Selinunte’s Archaeological Garden of the great theaters of the classical (Selinunte, west of Agrigento): Guy de period still remaining. The other attrac- Maupassant called these ruins an THE BEST OF SICILY tion is the Latomia del Paradiso, or “immense heap of fallen columns,” and the “,” the most famous so they are, but they are also the of the ancient quarries of Syracuse. See remains of one of the greatest colonies p. 248. of ancient Greece. The temples date • (Piazza from the 6th century to the 5th century Armerina): This is one of the grandest b.c. See p. 296. of all Roman villas to have survived • Tempio di (Segesta): One of from the classical era. It contains a total the world’s most perfectly preserved 1 of 40 rooms “carpeted” with the most monuments from antiquity, Tempio di

magnificent mosaics in western Europe. Segesta was constructed in the 5th cen- THE BEST BEACHES Its most reproduced mosaics are those tury b.c. Amazingly, 36 of its Doric of 10 young women dressed in strapless columns still stand. A visit to this two-piece bikinis that would not be out remote site in western Sicily also gives of style today. See p. 280. you a chance to see a large Greek thea- • Valle dei Templi (Agrigento): Contain- ter in ruins. See p. 300. ing the largest and greatest collection of

6 THE BEST BEACHES

• Mondello Lido (Mondello): This is is filled with good sandy beaches, so where the citizens of Palermo flock on you can take your pick. The best- summer days to escape the stifling heat accessorized strip is Lido dei Tirreno. of the city. In Sicily, Mondello See p. 156. Lido is outclassed in fashion only by the • Spiaggia Sabbie Nere (Vulcano): Com- beaches at the foot of Taormina. Its pletely off the beaten trail, “Black Sands wide, sandy beaches extend for 2km Beach” is the finest in the Aeolian 1 (1 /4 miles) from Monte Pellegrino to archipelago—that is, once you get over Monte Gallo. See p. 136. the fact that its sands are black and not • Mortelle: The best sands in northeast powdery white. Beaching it here is Sicily are found at the resort of Mor- something to tell the folks back home telle, which is where the Messinese about. See p. 181. themselves go to escape the scalding • Lido Mazzarò (Taormina): The best- heat in their capital. The resort lies equipped beach in Sicily, Lido Mazzarò 1 12km (7 /2 miles) north of Messina at is also one of the finest, a favorite sea- the northeast tip of the island. The area bordering strip of sand and gravel once 8 frequented by the stars of Hollywood’s Taormina’s medieval charm, but it’s golden age and still as interesting as filled with good hotels, fine swimming, ever. A 15-minute cable-car ride down and excellent restaurants. See p. 207. from the medieval town of Taormina, • Marina di Ragusa: Southeastern Sicily the beach is a hot spot from April to has a number of beaches, some of them October. Bars and restaurants border quite tacky, but Marina di Ragusa is the the sands. See p. 192. best of the lot. This is quite an appeal- • Giardini-: Situated on the water- ing area, and if Ragusa is too hot in front near Taormina, Giardini-Naxos is summer, you might drop anchor at a one of the most sophisticated seaside hotel here and visit the ancient city on resorts of Sicily. The sandy beach, a day trip. The resort also has the best one of the island’s best, lies between ice-cream bars, pubs, and watersports in Capo Taormina in the northwest and the area. See p. 275. Capo Schisò in the south. It may lack

7 THE BEST WALKS

• Old Palermo: In the heart of this Cefalù, is too vast to explore by foot THE BEST OF SICILY OF BEST THE ancient city, you can take a walk into unless you have days. It comprises history that in 3 hours will bring you by 39,679 hectares (98,049 acres) in all. 1 some of the Sicilian capital’s most fabled But you can take a full-day excursion to monuments and into some of its most walk through what has been called a charming squares, such as Piazza Preto- “botanic paradise,” containing more ria. You’ll marvel that so much of the than half the species known on the antique still remains, yet at the same island. Our favorite part of the walk time enjoy watching the locals go about centers on the village of Santuario di their daily lives past monuments that in Gibilmanna, from whose belvederes

THE BEST WALKS BEST THE some cases were left over by the Arabs you’ll have the most panoramic views of or the Normans. See p. 117. the island. From here, you can walk all • Ustica: In just 3 to 4 hours, you can the way to the idyllic town of Castel- circumnavigate the small island of buno, coming to a rest at its historic Ustica, which rises out of the waters of Piazza Margherita. See p. 163. the Tyrrhenian Sea 57km (35 miles) • Vulcano: This is the most visited of the northwest of Palermo (reached by boat). offshore . In ancient The best hike on this volcanic island is times, it was known as Thermessa and the coastal path north of the main set- was believed to be the home of the god tlement. The local tourist office will , but also the gateway to Hades. provide a map. You’ll pass along steep Its big attraction is the Gran Cratere, cliffs, part of a marine reserve, and be which hasn’t erupted since 1890. The rewarded with some of the most stun- walk to reach the peak of this crater is ning sea views in this part of the world. one of the most heavily trod in the At some point, you can strip down and islands. Allow about 3 hours for the trek cool off from your walk by going swim- there and back. For your effort, you’ll be ming. See p. 140. rewarded with the greatest of all views, • Parco Naturale Regionale delle not only of Vulcano, but of the other Madonie: This park, which begins 6km Aeolian Islands as well. See p. 179. 2 (3 /3 miles) south of the coastal town of • Old Catania: Overshadowed by Mount • Valley of the Temples: Our favorite 9 Etna, Catania is the second-largest and walk in all of Sicily is along the Valley of one of the most historic cities of Sicily. the Temples, in the city of Agrigento. A walk through the heart of Catania is This is one of the most memorable and the best way to explore its monuments. evocative sights of the ancient world. But it’s not all history: You’ll also get to You won’t find such impressive Greek take in the sights of the bustling out- ruins even in Greece itself. We prefer to door market in the historic core. It will walk among these ruins either at dawn 1 take about 4 /2 hours, however, to cover or sunset. Naturally, their mysterious just the highlights of the monuments, aura is heightened even more in spring- including the “Fountain of 10 Rivers” time, when all the wildflowers are burst- and the ancient Duomo, which was ing into bloom. The highlight of your built after the great earthquake of 1902. walk will be the Tempio della Concor- THE BEST OF SICILY See p. 232. dia (Concord), the best preserved Greek ruins in the world. See p. 283.

8 THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS

• Villa Igiea Grand Hotel (Palermo; com): Liz Taylor and Richard Burton & 091-6312111): This old villa, built have long vamoosed, but this deluxe at the turn of the 20th century in the hotel still attracts the rich and famous 1

Art Nouveau style, is the grandest who want to enjoy the stately comfort THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS address in Palermo. Surrounded by a of a 19th-century neoclassical villa near park overlooking the sea, it provides an Taormina’s Greek theater. It’s light- old-world atmosphere but has all the hearted and baronial at the same time. modern comforts. See p. 82. See p. 196. • Grand Hotel Liberty (Messina; • Excelsior Grand Hotel (Catania; & 090-6409436; www.nh-hotels.it: & 095-7476111; www.thi.it): This is This is one of the grandest hotels on the the leading hotel of Sicily’s second city, eastern coast of Sicily. It has been trans- a monument to the modernism of la formed into a bastion of comfort and dolce vita days of the 1950s. The city tranquillity, with some of the island’s may be in decay, but the hotel is com- best and plushest bedrooms. A stay here pletely up-to-date, housing its guests in is a beautiful way to visit “messy” Mes- luxury and comfort. See p. 217. sina. See p. 153. • Grand Hotel (Syracuse; & 0931- • Villa Meligunis (Lipari; & 090- 464600; www.grandhotelsr.it): This 9812426; www.villameligunis.it): This turn-of-the-20th-century hotel is so hotel is as good as it gets in the volcanic old, it’s new again, following a major Aeolian Islands. A restored cluster of upgrade and renovation. Its stately, old- 17th-century fishermen’s cottages forms fashioned charm has been preserved, the nucleus of the compound. All mod- but its comforts are definitely 21st cen- ern conveniences in this remote outpost tury. It’s the best place to stay if you have been added. See p. 176. plan to visit the archaeological gardens • Grand Hotel Timeo (Taormina; of Syracuse. See p. 256. & 0942-23801; www.framon-hotels. 10 9 THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS

• Palazzo Excelsior (Palermo; & 091- amid good furnishings, but you’ll pay 7909001; www.excelsiorpalermo.it): only a fraction of the price charged by With its faded 19th-century nostalgia, nearby competitors such as the deluxe this is a very appealing choice lying on Grand Hotel Timeo. See p. 198. the most prestigious street of Palermo, • Villa Favorita (Marsala; & 0923- but in an isolated spot. Much of the 989100): On the home turf of the most interior is appealingly dowdy. It’s not famous wine-producing town in Sicily, for everyone, but it attracts those dis- this elegant 19th-century retreat has cerning guests who like staying in a been restored and turned into a govern- living museum. See p. 86. ment-rated four-star hotel, yet its tariffs • Hotel Grotta Azzurra (Ustica; & 091- remain moderate. It’s part of the cul- 8449807; www.framon-hotels.com): tural heritage of Marsala. See p. 268. This remote island off the northern • Hotel Moderno (Erice; & 0923- coast of Sicily is home to a lush, resort- 869300; www.hotelmodernoerice.it): In style Mediterranean retreat, set on a spite of its dull and misleading name, wide plateau above the ocean. The this is quite a good hotel in Sicily’s most THE BEST OF SICILY OF BEST THE prices are most affordable. See p. 145. enchanting medieval town. Rooms are 1 • Villa Carlotta (Taormina; & 0942- located in an attractively decorated main 626058; www.hotelvillacarlottataormina. building or in a newer annex. All units com): Romantically positioned in a have hints of 19th-century styling and hilltop village, this affordable hotel is a open onto private balconies or terraces little gem. You’re in a beautiful setting with views in all directions. See p. 303.

10 THE BEST RESTAURANTS

• Il Ristorantino (Palermo; & 091- fashionable beach resort, this restaurant 512861): This restaurant is hailed by serves a better cuisine than that found THE BEST RESTAURANTS BEST THE some Italian critics for its classic and in the capital city itself. It’s housed in a authentic Sicilian and Mediterranean building from 1913. The chefs use the cuisine. Francesco Inzerillo presents a finest ingredients in preparing the creative menu based on his imagina- Sicilian and international cuisine. See tion, yet also keeps alive his favorite p. 140. old-time recipes. See p. 91. • Osteria del Duomo (Cefalù; & 0921- • La Scuderia (Palermo; & 091- 421838): Its location across from the 520323): Set at the foot of Monte Pel- town’s most famous cathedral is tour- legrino, 5km (3 miles) north of the city, isty, but this first-rate restaurant is any- this is Palermo’s grandest restaurant, thing but. It’s a bastion of some of the with superb international and Italian north coast’s grandest cuisine, special- cuisine. Talented chefs turn out a izing in sophisticated Sicilian fare along tempting array of dishes prepared with with a discreet offering of international market-fresh ingredients and served on dishes that have attracted world celebri- the town’s prettiest terrace. See p. 91. ties. See p. 162. • Charleston Le Terrazze (Mondello; • Casa Grugno (Taormina; & 0942- & 091-450171): Located in Palermo’s 21208): Taormina has never had such a temple of gastronomy. One of the most succulent Continental cuisine. He’s 11 exciting restaurants in Sicily is the culi- known especially for his preparation of nary showcase for Andrea Zangerl, an Mediterranean fish. See p. 224. -born chef. His modern takes on • Il Duomo (Ragusa Ibla & 0932- Sicilian cuisine and sublime interna- 651265): One of the finest restaurants tional dishes draw the world to his in southern Sicily, Il Duomo has been doorstep. See p. 202. awarded Michelin stars. Its greatest • Le Zagare (Catania; & 095-7476111): devotees maintain that it is the best There is no finer Grand Hotel–style restaurant in Sicily, serving a deluxe dining on the eastern coast of Sicily island cuisine. In many cases, chefs than at this citadel of haute cuisine, perpetuate age-old cooking traditions serving the best of island dishes along in turning out their sublime culinary with a well-chosen sampling of Conti- offerings. See p. 277. THE BEST OF SICILY nental recipes. The baroque city around • Ristorante Il Dehor (Agrigento; it may be in decay, but the good life still & 0922-511061): In a grand villa of a holds forth here. See p. 223. hotel, Foresteria Baglio della Luna, this • Osteria I Tre Bicchieri (Catania; is one of the best restaurants in all of & 095-7153540; www.osteriaitre Sicily, serving refined Sicilian and inter- bicchieri.it): Upon opening in 2002, national cuisine. Winning rave reviews this quickly became Catania’s finest from the press in Europe, this place will restaurant. -born wunderkind tempt you with an array of fixed-price 1 and chef Laquinangelo Carmine has menus from its very talented chef. See

won immediate acceptance with his p. 293. THE BEST DOWNHOME TRATTORIE

11 THE BEST DOWNHOME TRATTORIE

• Lo Scudiero (Palermo; & 091- fishermen’s soup. No one makes a better 581628): The capital’s finest moder- swordfish ragout than these folks. See ately priced trattoria is set across from p. 177. the landmark Politeamo Theater. Hon- • Granduca (Taormina; & 0942-24983): est, straightforward Sicilian food is The most atmospheric choice in this served here at very affordable prices. See chic resort looks like an antiques store p. 92. with potted plants. It also contains an • Bye Bye Blues (Mondello; & 091- alluring terrace with panoramic views. 6841415): Though the name doesn’t But most people come here for the excel- sound very Sicilian, this is one of the lent food and repertoire of Sicilian and best places to go for true island cook- Italian specialties. See p. 204. ing. A casual, relaxed place outside Pal- • La Grotta di Carmelo (Acireale; ermo, this trattoria is run by a & 095-7648153): The setting looks husband-and-wife team who are pas- touristy and gimmicky, as you dine in a sionate about feeding you well from the cave carved into a rock-face wall. Forget island’s bounty. See p. 140. that it’s constructed of black-lava rock • E Pulera (Lipari; & 090-9811158): from Mount Etna; the restaurant serves For some of the best Aeolian cooking, really good food, both seafood and head here for time-tested recipes and typical Sicilian fare. Much of the fish is some of the best fish specialties in the brought in daily from the Ionian Sea. island chain, including a delectable See p. 243. 12 • Don Camillo (Syracuse; & 0931- • Monte San Giuliano (Erice; & 0923- 67133): One of the city’s finest and 869595): In the medieval hilltop village most affordable dining rooms was con- of Erice, the most spectacular in Sicily, structed on the foundation of a 15th- you can dine at this undiscovered gar- century monastery. The cuisine of den hideaway after making your way seafood and Sicilian recipes is among through narrow labyrinthine streets. the most creative in town. It’s a charmer. Most of the foodstuffs are plucked from See p. 262. the sea. Some of the dishes, such as a seafood couscous, are inspired by North Africa. See p. 304. THE BEST OF SICILY OF BEST THE

1 THE BEST DOWNHOME TRATTORIE DOWNHOME BEST THE