nashville area self-guided driving tour M{ nearby Nashville { M This trail begins just a few minutes from Nashville, the state capital of . Nashville draws visitors and music lovers from all over the world, and it’s full of hidden gems on its own — little known restaurants, venues, and sites with cultural and historical significance, including The Hermitage (home of Andrew Jackson), Welcome to the Fort Nashborough, and several Antebellum mansions. While you’re in the Old Tennessee Trail. area, make plans to explore Nashville’s SEE THE DRIVING fascinating history and enjoy the unique energy of Music City. TOUR MAP ON PAGE 12. Read the story behind the trail on page 22. The Old Tennessee Trail is waiting for you: a scenic drive as rich in history as it is in fresh air, gently rolling hills, and DOWN-HOME CHARM. This trail begins just outside of Nashville M{ taking in the trail { M in historic Franklin, where you’ll set off through our gorgeous • These 84 miles are full of historic sites, preserved homes countryside and explore some of our favorite small towns, and museums that bring the stories of the Old Tennessee built from early settlers’ HOMESTEADS AND FARMLANDS. Trail to life. Many of them require advance reservations, Stop in the historic markets that help anchor our admission, or both to experience our history. communities, and feel right at home at some of our best-kept • The Old Tennessee Trail features beautiful stretches Rip? We’ve got Ready foR a Tennessee Road T SECRET DINING SPOTS, even if you’ve never read the words of scenic driving. Make sure you fill your tank and you covered on the new, self-guided driving trails of the On Nashville’s Trace, “frog legs” on a menu in your life. use the restroom in the towns along the way. There will discover Tennessee Trails & Byways. always be a “next town” on the route, but it may not be you’ll take the scenic route — literally — on the Natchez Trace Stand where Confederate General watched within the next few miles. Parkway, a beautiful National Park and National Scenic Byway. his troops march to the dramatic Battle of Franklin; run your Make your own adventures in the unique small towns and • This is a drive that promises an off-the-beaten-path historic communities just beyond the trees. Pick up a trail map hand over Civil War bullet holes that still mark the nashvillesTrace.com. You’ll Tennessee experience. What we can’t promise is steady at Nashville’s visitor center or visit trail’s many Antebellum homes. This is the story of Middle cell phone service. Don’t be surprised if you don’t always find the directions, stops and stories that make Nashville’s Trace a one-of-a-kind Tennessee road trip you won’t want to miss. For Tennessee, from Native Americans to west-bound settlers, have a signal.

an overview of the trails and Tennessee visitor offerings, call Civil War soldiers and beyond. • Many historic buildings open their doors to visitors, but for a free vacation guide. 1-800-Go2-Tenn The Old Tennessee Trail takes some time to explore, and many properties remain as they have for over a century: it’s up to you to decide how you want to experience it — from private residences. Please be respectful of the private land and homeowners on our tour. a six-hour SCENIC DRIVE to a two-day history excursion. Any way you go, you’ll discover life and adventure outside of • During the summer and early fall, you’ll find opportunities to stock up on local produce at farms and farm the attractions that make us famous. stands between the points of interest along the trail. So turn off your mobile phone, fill up, buckle in, grab Many stands are cash-only, so visit the ATM before you your camera, and spend some time exploring Tennessee’s hit the road to take backstage. Here’s your pass. advantage of true farm- to-table goodness. • Don’t forget to visit your Symbol Key: Great National Register favorite online review Outdoors of Historic Places sites (like tripadvisor.com African- American Land Trust Picture Spot or yelp.com) and help us heritage for Tennessee blaze a trail to these Live Music state-owned wonderful hidden gems. Civil War Venue historic site Tennessee Festivals Lodging Main Street Pictured on cover: Carl Road, Leiper’s Fork; Plantation, Franklin; St. John’s Program Church, Mount Pleasant. Pictured above: The Hermitage, Nashville; Davis General Store, Boston Community; Civil War bullet holes at the Carter House, Franklin. For complete visitor information Paper contains Food & Wine Motorcycle on Tennessee, call 1-800-GO2-TENN 10% recycled Route (R) Right (L) Left James K. Polk Home interior; Columbia; Bigby Grey flag, Mount Pleasant. content. or visit tnvacation.com. Find more information at OldTnTrailAndByway.com. 1 Campbell, who owned by the Gentry family since 1849, and its Please note: Shops Points 11-25 are highlights to explore as M{ downtown FRANKLIN { M started the first 400 acres remain a working farm with three in Leiper’s Fork are you travel Hwy 46W through Leiper’s Fork. national bank to Civil War-era homes (Private Residences). closed Mon., unless Founded in 1799, Franklin’s historic downtown has open in Middle Open weekends, end of Sept.-Oct. noted. Restaurants 11. David Arms – (R) Visit this gallery to view made a successful and sustained effort to preserve the Tennessee after are open daily. the work of this nationally known artist, and history of the original square and surrounding businesses Continue W on TN-96W for 8. You’re crossing the West Harpeth River, which browse originals, giclees, signed posters, the Civil War. It 4136 Old Hillsboro Rd. and homes. This charming 16-block historic district is 1.6 miles, turn L onto flows into the Harpeth. You’ll soon pass prints, note cards and more featuring his features a cupola and widow’s walk, TN-46W/Old Hillsboro Rd. Leiper’s Fork listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The back on trail uncommon architecture for the mid-South. through the historic Bingham Community, signature use of inspired symbolism, texture, square is surrounded by beautiful Victorian architecture, giving a once-thriving rural area with churches, color and composition. visitors a glimpse of history, along with unique shopping and Continue W on Hwy 96W 5. Centennial Hall – (R) (Private Residence) businesses, schools, and Boyd’s Mill. one-of-a-kind restaurants to explore. The Old Tennessee Trail for 1.3 miles to view Originally the Knights of Pythias Pavilion, 4141 Old Hillsboro Rd. 12. Country Boy Restaurant – (L) Serving daily pt. 5 up on hill. Go SW on TN-46W for 2.1 9. Gray-Lemke House – (R) Leiper’s Fork since 1968, you can order breakfast any time, ends right here where it begins, so you’ll have another chance this glass-domed and wooden structure was miles to pt. 9. 615-591-4245 1015 Carlisle Ln. constructed by the fraternal organization (Private Residence) plus a variety of full- to discover downtown Franklin (including the historic Visitor Franklin 4088 Old Hillsboro Rd. Center, point 1) after you’ve finished the trail. for the Tennessee Centennial Exposition in Built in 1856, this flavored country fare. Leiper’s Fork Greek Revival-style Breakfast & lunch, daily; Points 1-8, 86-98 are located in Franklin. 1897, for which Nashville’s famous house was home to the dinner, Tues.-Sat. owner of Bingham’s Did You was Know Restaurants offering also constructed. community store. DIRECTIONS Southern comfort food 1. Williamson County Also known as Continue SW on 10. Leiper’s Fork – This is the only historic are often termed a “meat and three” because From Franklin Sq. Visitor Center Carlisle House, TN-46W for 2.4 village on the Tennessee portion of the diners select one meat and three vegetables roundabout, turn the building was miles to pt. 10. Natchez Trace Parkway. Originally named ? from the daily menu. R onto E. Main St. (R) Start at this historic actually dismantled and moved from the “Bentonville,” it was founded by Thomas to pt. 1 in center of building, the McPhail- exhibition site (now Nashville’s Centennial 4142 Old Hillsboro Rd. 13. Puckett’s Grocery – block. Hart Benton’s mother and grew around a Leiper’s Fork Cliffe Office, for maps, Park) in 1900 by Joseph Parks, supposedly store, a log school and church. Stop here (R) Happily serving 209 E. Main St. 615-794-1308 Leiper’s Fork as a Franklin brochures and info on to impress a woman he was courting. and experience historic architecture and 615-591-8514 self-guided walking Perched on its rocky knoll, this property has modern charm, where a fine art gallery is a restaurant, grocery and tours including the Franklin iPad Tour App. witnessed over a century of change. neighbor to a grocery store that moonlights meeting place since Abbreviation Key: Nashville’s Trace: Backstage to Backroads as a music venue. This special place is home the 1950s, locals and celebrities alike take R Right Continue W on TN-96W, 6. Animalia – (L) This site, in the heart of the and The Jack Trail: Sippin’ to Saddles self- to farmers, talented artists and musicians the stage and enjoy the famous burgers. L Left guided driving tour turn L onto Boyd Mill Pk. Westhaven Community, encompasses several N North Take immediate R and historic farms and their family cemeteries, (yes, some very famous) who appreciate its facebook Favorite place to eat along the Old Tennessee Trail? brochures are also continue to parking area fan S South including that of William White. White, down-home feel and peaceful rolling hills. favorite Puckett’s Grocery! Just went there for breakfast. E East available here. See for pt. 6. page 21 to learn more. Animalia cousin of Franklin founder Abram Maury, Leiper’s Fork was named in the top 17 “Best Small-Town Pt. 14 is behind pt. 15. 14. Lawnchair Theatre – W West bought the property in 1799 as part of a land Int. intersection 3105 Boyd Mill Pk. Getaways” by Southern Living magazine in 2010. Events here are free; (R) Located in the heart 2. Franklin Town Square Franklin grant from pioneer settler James Robertson, Erected call for schedule: of downtown, locals & Monument – the founder of 615-477-6799 Return to roundabout. in 1899, this down- gather here for family- At Main St. & 3rd Ave. N., Nashville. Three oriented movies, music turn R onto 3rd Ave. N. town landmark honors M M generations of the { Leiper’s Fork { and community events. Turn L onto Bridge St./ the state’s Civil War White family are Hwy 96W. Confederate soldiers. 4,000-year-old relics found in this area indicate that Leiper’s 4144 Old Hillsboro Rd. buried here in Fork served as an important hunting ground for prehistoric Native 15. Leiper’s Creek Gallery Main St. & 3rd Ave. N. 3. Harvey McLemore House – (R) This house Leiper’s Fork – (R) This gallery show- Franklin the William White Americans who later evolved into the tribes we know as the 615-599-5102 was built by a cases fine art by local From TN-96W, turn R Cemetery. If you , Chickasaw, and Shawnee. Leiper’s Fork was settled in the onto 11th Ave. N. to former slave and are an animal lover, Animalia Gifts offers talents, ranging from remained in the late 1790s by pioneering Revolutionary War veterans from North pt. 3. designer collars, fresh homemade treats and Carolina and who were given land grants as payments for the undiscovered to family for over a additional trail information. the internationally 446 11th Ave. N. Did You their service. The village got its first post office in 1818 and began to Franklin century. Today, the recognized. 615-794-2270 historic home is a Know Prehistoric artifacts found in the area suggest be known as Leiper’s Fork, after Hugh Leiper, an early surveyor. The early 20th century was also a prosperous time for the little village, 4145 Old Hillsboro Rd. Return to TN-96W. museum, and one that Native Americans lived here 15,000 Leiper’s Fork 16. Laurel Leaf Gallery – (L) Shop for expertly of the few freedmen’s residences still years ago. Nearby glass mounds are remnants with general stores, the Railroad, lumber mills, 615-861-0569 crafted items like jewelry, fiber art, and pot- blacksmiths, churches and a school. OFF-TRAIL standing in the area. Open by appointment. of the mound-builders’ culture from the tery, created by gifted area artisans who ? Mississippian period (900-1500 A.D.) Today, it is a thriving community celebrate the enduring grace of nature and art. Go W on TN-96W for 0.3 4. Boyd Mill Avenue Historic District –(L) of farmers, artists, and musicians mile, turn L onto Glass Ln. Continue W on TN-96W 7. Gentr y ’s Far m*–(R) 4150 Old Hillsboro Rd. 17. Joe Natural’s Farm Store & Café – (R) Enjoy (Private Residences) The district features living a rural life just outside of Leiper’s Fork to pt. 4. Take a short Colonial Revival, Folk Victorian, Bungalow for 0.1 mile to pt. 7. In the fall, stop Nashville. Leiper’s Fork is the only organically grown fare inside the 1882 Thomas drive around pt. 4, 615-595-2233 and Cottage residences constructed in the 1974 New Hwy 96W to pick a pumpkin, historic village on the Tennessee Carl House where Joe offers everything from return to TN-96W. Franklin early through mid-20th century. Magnolia explore a corn portion of the Natchez Trace Parkway. vegetarian bowls to juicy grass-fed burgers. Magnolia Hall 615-794-4368 Stroll through the Farm Store for vegetables, 600 Boyd Mill Pk. Hall (R) pictured, is the exception: an 1840 maze, and experi- ence rural life. Points 9-30 are located in baked goods and more. Franklin residence in the Italianate style, built by Leiper’s Fork. Irish immigrant and banker William S. This land has been 2 *A Century Farm, see page 15. See Old Tennessee Trail map on page 12. Find more information at OldTnTrailAndByway.com. 3 4149 Old Hillsboro Rd. 18. Serenite Maison – (L) 4216 Old Hillsboro Rd. 24. Yeoman’s in the Fork – (R) Located in the After pt. 27, continue 28. Hunter-Preston Farm – (L) (Private Leiper’s Fork Leiper’s Fork straight on Leipers Creek M M 615-599-2071 This unique shop spe- 615-983-6460 1881 Dr. J. W. Allen Residence) This farm marks the southern { duck river { cializes in 19th- and house, this shop Rd. Go SW for 0.5 mile border of 160 to pt. 28. The clean water of the Duck River played a significant role early 20th-century is a must for rare preserved acres, 5318 Leipers Creek Rd. in bringing settlers to this area of Middle Tennessee, and served French and Italian book and history Leiper’s Fork thanks to one of as part of the boundary set for the Cherokee in the 1806 Land chandeliers, iron-stone, farm tables, European lovers. View the the first conser- Treaty. It continues to serve as the sole water source for 200,000 textiles and jewelry. Closed Mon. & Tues. collection of rare vation easements people in the area, including GM’s manufacturing plant in Spring books and papers, of The Land Trust 4151 Old Hillsboro Rd. Hill. Maintaining the river’s water quality is equally essential 19. Locke Building – (L) Named after a store including documents or letters in the hand for Tennessee. The Leiper’s Fork to wildlife, human residents, and the local economy. This river that once stood on of every American president. area stretches from Leiper’s Fork’s north is home to more species of fish than all of Europe. It holds over the site, this 1995 entrance to this point, and was donated by Int. of Old Hillsboro Rd. & 50 species of freshwater mussels and 151 species of fish, making structure contains 25. Thomas Hart Benton Site – (R) Benton was the Preston family, in order to preserve a Bailey Rd. it one of the most biologically diverse rivers in North America. salvaged materials one of the earliest settlers in Leiper’s Fork piece of Tennessee’s original beauty and the Leiper’s Fork Endangered species include the from an 1880 and a close advisor of Andrew Jackson’s. village’s way of life. schoolhouse and an After Benton shot and Birdwing Pearly Mussel and Pygmy 1882 former home. wounded Jackson in a Continue S on 29. Garrison Road – (R) The road takes its name Madtom fish. The Pygmy Madtom is It’s an award-winning example of reclaimed scuffle, the Bentons Leipers Creek Rd. for after the 1801 military post established here found only in Tennessee’s Duck and resources and historic preservation. made a hasty retreat 0.9 mile to pt. 29. to enforce the 1785 Indian Treaty’s Tennessee Clinch Rivers worldwide, and is an to Missouri. Benton is Valley Divide boundary, allotting the Cherokee indicator species for river conditions, 4154 Old Hillsboro Rd. 20. Sweeney-Powell House – (R) This 1882 home, Leiper’s Fork best known for his space for hunting grounds stretching into as it is very sensitive to toxic chemicals originally built for the career there, where he , and . and increased sedimentation. Brigadoon Antiques: Sam Sweeney family, 615-585-7557 served as a U.S. Senator and became an now houses offices and early architect of Manifest Destiny. Continue S on Leipers 30. Sparkman-Ingram Farm – (L) (Private Brigadoon Antiques; Creek Rd. for 1.5 miles Residence) The original settlers’ home still Continue SW on Leipers to pt. 30. 33. Nett’s Country Store – shop for art and 4345 Old Hillsboro Rd. 26. Benton’s Well, Green’s Grocery, & Slave sits on this beautiful farm, built around 1850 Creek Rd. for 3.5 miles. (R) A slight turn onto antiques with American Leiper’s Fork Cabin – (L) (Private 5540 Leipers Creek Rd. with a Victorian overlay added in the 1880s. Turn slight R onto Leiper’s Fork Skelley Road brings and British influences. Property) Travelers Today, the 500-acre farm is protected by a Skelley Rd. to pt. 33. you to this down-home along the Old Natchez conservation easement. (Look for orange Union 4158 Old Hillsboro Rd. Note the 76 sign.) country store and 21. The Old Natchez House – (R) Trace drank from Leiper’s Fork Victorian-style Continue S on Leipers 31. Boston Community & Davis Store – (L) 4356 Skelley Rd. restaurant serving up 615-491-3668 Benton’s Well and architecture of the Creek Rd. for 0.6 mile Bethel delicious homemade pies, great cooking, and camped here, and an In 1801, Revolutionary War soldier William 1890 J.T. Sparkman to pt. 31. 931-682-2315 live music from time to time. 1801 slave cabin still Sparkman settled home and step Davis Store on 320 acres near exists on the property. 5600 Leipers Creek Rd. Pts. 34 & 35 are next 34. Bethel Baptist Church – (R) This 1883 inside to see works Nearby Green’s Grocery Boston the Tennessee door to pt. 33. church was built as a of art and crafts by is now a tucked-away 615-794-1066 Valley Divide. The 4357 Skelley Rd. Methodist-Episcopal local artisans with land contained the Bethel music venue for local On this scenic house of worship. a focus on equestrian, western and wildlife. Boston Church of pickers and country drive down Leipers Through the years it Christ (1854), a Turn R on Old TN-96. 22. Hillsboro United Methodist Church – (L) stars alike. Creek Rd., keep has also served leading force in the Restoration Movement. Go 1 block to pt. 22. The original portion of this carefully main- 4348 Old Hillsboro Rd. an eye out for Methodist and non- As you pass through the community, step back Retrace route and turn R tained building has Leiper’s Fork 27. Leiper’s Fork Market & wild turkeys, deer, denominational groups. in time at the Davis Store, open since 1928. on TN-46W. changed very little in 615-794-0958 Visitor Information Kiosk hawks, and other 5313 Old Hwy 96 35. Bethel Community Center – (R) This former Leiper’s Fork 100 years. Originally, (R) Stop for a snack and view history through wildlife. You are passing under SR-840 and over school (1914) is now home to live music and it was jointly owned by Did You the Divide, the edge of 615-595-0155 old photos on the walls. Continue SW Know dancing on the third Saturday night of the the Methodist, Baptist, on Leipers Fort Nashborough and the U.S. territory month. Join the locals for an authentic Presbyterian, and Church Creek Rd. for up to 1801. Streams on the north flow pickin’ & grinnin’ experience. of Christ congregations, M{ scenic route { M 1.9 miles. to the ; streams on the who shared the building south side flow to the Duck River. Continue SW on Leipers 36. McKnight Station Folks, this is what they mean by the “scenic route.” There’s ? Creek Rd. for 1.4 miles Train Depot – on a rotating basis. plenty of history along this drive, and noteworthy, out-of-the- Continue SW on Leipers 32. Parham Schoolhouse – (L) This one-room to pt. 36. (L) Notice this 4207 Old Hillsboro Rd. 23. Leiper’s Fork Church of Christ – (L) Built way places that will clue you in to what life is like out here, Creek Rd. for 0.6 mile to schoolhouse, built in 1919, functioned until Leipers Creek Rd. reminder of the Leiper’s Fork in 1821, this is where David Lipscomb led pt. 27. Bethel 615-794-6051 and what it was like way back when. You won’t see a written 1949. There were hundreds like it in the area, Middle Tennessee Leipers Creek Rd. a congregation to description of the tree branches making a canopy over the road, where students walked for miles to learn in Railroad, which adopt positions as non- Bethel Continue SW on or a special callout about how the low wooden fences look as you these cold, unlit buildings, bringing their Leipers Creek Rd. for 0.1 operated from combatants during pass them at 40 miles an hour, but they’re just as important to lunches in pails. Teachers carried on their mile to pt. 37. 1909-1927 along the Leipers Creek Valley. the Civil War. Their the Old Tennessee Trail as any storied Civil War battlefield. Use profession with few materials, for little pay. 5990 Leipers Creek Rd. petition was rejected 37. Quilting Frame – (L) While this building it- these landscapes as a photo opportunity, as a stage for imagining In the Bethel Community, watch for tour Santa Fe by Military Governor 931-682-3746 self is not historic, it represents an important yourself homesteading here after the Revolutionary War, or just points 33-36. Andrew Johnson, who a chance to lose yourself in Tennessee’s natural beauty. Continue SW on Leipers art form of the Civil War era. Quilts were sewn later became President of the U.S. Creek Rd. to TN-7 int. and sold to raise funds to support both the 4 See Old Tennessee Trail map on page 12. Find more information at OldTnTrailAndByway.com. 5 Did You abolitionist move- Know The Water Valley Community gets its name M M M{ nATCHEZ TRACE parkway { M ment and the war from the devastating flood of 1874, when { land trust for tennessee { effort, as well as to National park and national scenic byway Leipers Creek swelled over its banks and The Land Trust for Tennessee is a statewide, private nonprofit warm and comfort caused widespread damage. organization whose mission is “to preserve the unique character The Natchez Trace Parkway saw plenty of foot traffic before soldiers. Today, ? of Tennessee’s natural and historic landscapes and sites for future settlers came to the area — first from buffalo, then Native quilting that was Continue W on TN-7 42. Water Valley Community – This was one for 0.4 mile, turn L generations.” The area of the Old Tennessee Trail is rich with Americans. When flatboats began to expand trade from this area once done by hand of Maury County’s beauty and history and the Land Trust has been active in this area further south, this network of prehistoric paths is done largely by machine. Stop by and see on Leipers Creek Rd. first settlements, to pt. 42. since its inception in 1999. From preservation of historic sites, became convenient return routes for the boat OFF-TRAIL how modern quilts are made. and the earliest like the Franklin Battlefield at Carnton, to iconic farms, like the operators, having delivered their goods in New marked grave To visit Santa Fe, from Take a short drive off-trail to the Santa Fe Preston Farms outside of Leiper’s Fork, and scenic vistas, like the Orleans, Louisiana, and Natchez, . int. of Leipers Creek Rd. (Sarah Fly, 1808) protected properties visible from the Water Valley Overlook of the The route was a dangerous one, and boatmen Community (pronounced Santa Fee) that in the county lies & TN-7, turn L on TN-7. offers notable points 38 and 39. Natchez Trace Parkway, the Land Trust has protected over 7,400 traveling on foot were often robbed or murdered here. In 1824, acres of land in Williamson and Maury Counties. The Land Trust on their way back north. The advent of the Go 1.8 miles on TN-7, 38. Goshen United Methodist Church & Water Valley had 61 voters and paid taxes on for Tennessee works with communities and local governments to steam engine in 1811 eventually made the foot turn R on Goshen Rd. Cemetery – (R) 14 slaves. This is a classic country drive, with Go 1.8 miles to pt. 38. create conservation plans and with landowners to permanently route obsolete. Formally established as a U.S. The church began stunning colors in the fall. protect their land. For more information, visit Landtrusttn.org Postal Route in 1801, this 444-mile scenic route Return to TN-7. as a Brush Arbor — 3523 Goshen Rd. Continue 3.4 miles, turn 43. At this corner, find theWater Valley or call 615-244-LAND. connects Natchez, Mississippi, to Nashville, Santa Fe a primitive shelter R to stay on Leipers Tennessee, with plenty to do, see, and experience along the way. built for worship Community Center (R), where dances are The Land Trust for Tennessee has two special project areas within 931-682-3545 Creek Rd. to pt. 43. still held weekly. The phrase “the journey is the destination” certainly where no formal 4849 Leipers Creek Rd. the Old Tennessee Trail geography: Loveless to Leiper’s, which spans applies to today’s Parkway. Protected and preserved by the church existed — Williamsport 44. Beautiful scenery marks this stretch of the from the Loveless Café at the northern terminus of the Natchez Trace, , the landscape along the Trace is unspoiled in the early 1800s. In 1835, a log structure Old Tennessee Trail. Note the historic church down to Leiper’s Fork, and the Lower Duck River watershed, which by modern development. You won’t find any billboards, travel was erected, replaced in 1882 with the In 0.5 mile, turn L to (L) as you stay spans from the Tennessee Valley Divide south through Maury County. plazas or businesses as you drive along the Trace itself — just current building. Unique to this site stay on Leipers Creek Rd. with Leipers Creek The Land Trust for Tennessee has produced two nature and cultural natural beauty, fresh air, and a few friendly and historical Turn L on TN-7, then L on is a “mounting rock,” used to assist ladies Go 3.4 miles on Road, and imagine reports within this area: The Lick Creek Report markers along the way. The only homes you’ll find along the Trace Fly Rd. Go 0.8 mile to in mounting and dismounting their horses. Leipers Creek Rd. to int. and the Duck River Highlands Report, both with Snow Creek Rd. yourself here in belong to wildlife, and the 50 mph speed limit allows plenty of pt. 39. the early 1800s as available online. time to take in the stunning scenery along your journey. 3419 Fly Rd. 39. Papa Boudreaux’s Cajun Café – (R) Straight Santa Fe the area was being In this guide, this Though the Trace is beautiful year-round, autumn is a from , “Papa” relocated to 931-682-0040 Tennessee and at the urging of friends who settled and farms symbol designates spectacular time to experience the brilliant foliage of the a protected area. Return to TN-7. love his authentic recipes, opened a Cajun were being established. Relax as you take hickory, maple and oak hardwood forests. Regardless of your If you went off-trail OFF-TRAIL in the Tennessee countryside. interests, there are plenty of opportunities to experience the restaurant on his Santa Fe property. This to Santa Fe, head back colorful gem is going to surprise you! Turn L on Snow Creek Rd. history and beauty of the Parkway. There are more than a dozen towards Leipers Creek 45. Pigg Schoolhouse Village – The school- In the Williamsport Community and nearby Go 3.3 miles to Mingo house, built in campgrounds along the Tennessee portion of the Natchez Trace Rd., but stay straight facebook This is the best place in the world Branch Rd. and pt. 45. OFF-TRAIL area, enjoy tour points 47-54. Parkway corridor and many opportunities for hiking, biking and on TN-7 to rejoin trail at fan 1884 and used pt. 40. favorite to eat, especially if Papa is there! 4719 Mingo Branch Rd. To visit pt. 47 from int. of 47. Williamsport Wildlife Management Area horseback riding at trailheads right on the Trace — it’s as easy Santa Fe until 1920, was moved here in TN-50 & Snow Creek Rd., – (R) Managed by the Tennessee Wildlife as parking your car and stepping into this enchanting piece 40. Fly Community & 931-682-2336 turn R onto TN-50, back on trail 2004 from Pigg Resources Agency, this site offers 1,800 of Tennessee. The Parkway can be accessed from Hwys 96, 46, 7, Store – Enter into the Retrace route and head go 1 mile to entrance. Schoolhouse Road. acres for small game hunting and four lakes 50 and 412. To stay on main trail unincorporated and back on Snow Creek Rd. Lake Information: Stay straight on Snow It has been joined popular for bass fishing. from pt. 37, at int. of primarily agricultural 931-583-2477 National Scenic Byways and All American Roads are designated Leipers Creek Rd. & TN-7, Creek Rd. to rejoin main by another cabin, a smokehouse, an outhouse, community of Fly. Pt. 48 is 4 miles 48. Continue on Hwy 50 to the Natchez Trace- as such based on their archaeological, cultural, historic, natural, turn R on TN-7 to pt. 40. trail at pt. 46. and an old-fashioned general store replica Established by the Fly ahead on TN-50. side village of Shady Grove. recreational, and scenic qualities. There are 150 nationally Fly’s General Store to create a little “village” on a private farm. To rejoin main trail, family, original settlers designated byway routes in 50 states, Puerto Rico and the District 5661 Leipers Creek Rd. reverse direction 49. Ferries on the Duck Fly in the area, Fly’s back on trail and continue straight of Columbia, with five located in Tennessee. The Natchez Trace 931-682-2356 In the early 1800s, flat- River were in operation Parkway is both an All American Road and a National Scenic Byway. General Store (R) boating was a lucrative on TN-50. Fly Nazarene Church opened in 1906 and here as early as 1807, All American Roads are the very best of the National Scenic Byways, 5288 Leipers Creek Rd. business, moving goods is still known by its back on trail making Williamsport meeting the same criteria but possessing multiple intrinsic qualities Fly Did You down the Duck River, to the a thriving trading of national significance. To be considered an All American Road, 931-682-0074 original name. Nearby Know Tennessee and Mississippi From pt. 46, go 0.2 mile Fly Nazarene Church center. Notice the the byway must be considered a destination and a Rivers, on to New Orleans. on TN-50, turn L onto quaint, historic homes reason for travel on its own. The (L) also anchors the Some of the boat operators, called Kaintucks, Old Williamsport Rd. to community. pt. 49. and churches as you Natchez Trace Parkway certainly would then walk home on the Natchez Trace. pass through. ? Did You is. Learn more on Nashville’s Trace: 41. As you continue down From pt. 44 and int. of 46. Your scenic drive continues on Snow Creek Know The African Methodist Episcopal (AME) Backstage to Backroads, our trail Hwy 7, notice Spout Leipers Creek Rd. & built around the Tennessee portion Road near the Duck River bottomland (L). Church was born in protest against slavery. Spring (L). It was a Snow Creek Rd., turn R You’ll pass a pre-Civil War Greek Revival of the Trace and its surrounding on Snow Creek Rd. It was the first denomination to reject the drinking water source home and other historic structures as you communities. for Middle Tennessee Turn L onto TN-50 to idea that people of African descent are second- continue on main trail. approach the river and cross the bridge. ? class citizens. Railroad, which ran through the area. 6 See Old Tennessee Trail map on page 12. Find more information at OldTnTrailAndByway.com. 7 Continue 1.1 miles, 54. Liberty Hall – (R) (Private Residence) own homes. Zion 1847 Price-Porter Home (R) pictured, the M{ african-american { M turn R at int. past pt. 53. Built by George Pope Webster in 1844, continues to serve pre-1824 Breckenridge-Barrier House (R) Go 0.3 mile to view as the religious pt. 54. this is generally considered the grandest and First Presbyterian Church (L). communities Antebellum home in western Maury County. and social center Along The Trail N. Cross Bridges Rd. Park and enjoy the square’s charming shops Cross Bridges Captain Henry J. Webster, the older son of the community. and eateries, including points 61-64. The rapid growth of agricultural wealth in Antebellum of the builder, was the first captain of The current building was erected in 1849. Williamson and Maury Counties in the 1800s depended on a large the famed Company Aytch (Company H), Continue 1.5 miles on 61. Confederate Monument – This memorial Continue 1.2 miles on 59. Canaan AME Church (L) & Community – N. Main St. to downtown to all Confederate soldiers is also a tribute slave population. By 1860, approximately one half of the residents First Tennessee Regiment, the most highly Canaan Rd. to pt. 59. decorated company in the Army of Located at the corners of the Zion lands Mount Pleasant & pt. 61. to Mount Pleasant’s in Williamson and Maury Counties were slaves. After the Civil War Continue 1.2 miles, stay Canaan AME Church and Polk plantations, this area became a ended in 1865, the Freedmen’s Bureau was established by the U.S. R to stay on N. Cross Tennessee during the Civil War. 3046 Ashwood Rd. “Bigby Greys,” the Bridges Rd. to pt. 55. Columbia natural settlement for former slaves. For town’s finest young Government to help establish schools for newly freed slaves and 55. Originally the property of Revolutionary 100 years after the negotiate labor contracts between ex-slaves and former owners. Cross Bridges soldiers. The group Baptist Church War veteran Jonathan Webster, the end of the Civil gathered here to African-American communities like Natchez Street in downtown 2881 N. Cross Bridges Rd. Cross Bridges War, the Canaan Franklin and the Canaan Community in Maury County began Cross Bridges receive a banner they 931-706-0055 Community came Community was a would carry into battle, to grow around new schools, vibrant, crowded, In 1 mile, turn L onto to be known as which is now displayed churches and fraternal such thanks to the African-American organizations, many of which Hampshire Pk. to stay at the museum. on main trail. four toll bridges neighborhood. endured intimidation and that used to exist The old Canaan Schoolhouse, restored 108 Public Sq. 62. Mount Pleasant / violence from the post-war OFF-TRAIL in the area. You’ll by the community, is a testament to that Mount Pleasant Maury Museum of 931-379-9511 Ku Klux Klan and continue pass Cross Bridges Baptist Church (R). period. Also notice the historic cemetery. Natural History – (R) to serve the Williamson and To go off trail to Did You Hampshire, turn R on Know This town-square stop Maury County areas today. Hampshire Pk. 56. Jonathan Webster Home – (0.9 mile on R) African-American communities like Canaan preserves the history Pt. 56: 3166 Hampshire Pk. (Private Residence) The historic 1808 developed when newly minted freedmen of Mount Pleasant’s Hampshire home of the Revolutionary War veteran received gifts of land from their former phosphate industry Go 0.1 mile on 50. Clayborne AME Church Pt. 57: 2389 Hwy 166N mentioned above. owners. The small plots were given both from and the way of life it Old Williamsport Rd. to Hampshire ? a sense of familial patronage, and the need to pt 50. (L) pictured, ca. 1923, created here, as well as Civil War heritage, To visit wineries, see pg. 57. Hampshire Museum – keep their field help tied to the land. Clayborne AME Church housed a congregation (5.2 miles on L) Learn farming tools, original moonshine still, and 3692 Old Williamsport Rd. that began to gather 10 for directions. Native American artifacts. To resume main trail, the history of the area Continue 1.9 miles on 60. Mount Pleasant – Williamsport immediately following Canaan Rd. (cross US-43) reverse direction, stay inside this former Coming into town on 100 S. Main St. 63. Mt. Pleasant Grille – (R) Once an old Williamsport UMC the Civil War. Along toward Mount Pleasant. Old Williamsport Rd. straight on Hampshire Pk. local bank building. N. Main Street, you’ll Mount Pleasant pharmacy, this restaurant has become an this route, you’ll also to int. with In 0.4 mile, turn R on pass historic homes 931-379-7228 Williamsport Open Thurs.-Sun. N. Main St. to pt. 60. anchor of the community. Rich in music pass Williamsport United Methodist N. Cross Did You (Private Residences) OFF-TRAIL Church (0.3 mile on L), built ca. 1813. Bridges Rd. Know The high ridges of this area, which reach 1,000 history and town recognized by the legend, this eatery feet, are great for growing grapes that make APTA (Association for Turn R on 51. Williamsport Market & Deli – (R) Stop here delicious wines. In the 1800s, the state agri- pairs its old-fashioned Williamsport Pk./ for gas, food and restrooms. The market the Preservation of Tennessee Antiquities) soda fountain with fine TN-50 to pt. 51. culturalist saw the opportunity and worked with including: Walnut Grove (L) ca. 1858, the also features live music. ? developers to bring Swiss settlers to use the land dining and the arts. 3566 Williamsport Pk. Williamsport 52. Vine Hill – (R) (Private Residence) This for wine making. In one of 205 N. Main St. 64. Breckenridge Antique 931-583-2162 large, columned house Amber Falls their first years, they Mount Pleasant Shoppe – (L) You’ll find 931-379-3399 Reverse direction and is only visible from the Winery & Cellars bottled over 15,000 gallons. M{ mount pleasant { M 18th- and 19th-century rejoin main trail. 794 Ridgetop Rd. road in winter months. Hampshire For a taste of Tennessee’s Established in 1824, Mount Pleasant began as an agricultural American, English and back on trail Originally owned by 931-285-0088 wine country, visit town. Settlers flocked to this area and its fertile soil became Continental antiques James Webster, the Keg Springs Winery Amber Falls Winery & legendary — farmers were amazed at the harvest that continued and accessories for From pt. 50 and Old first child born in 361 Keg Springs Rd. sale in this historic Williamsport Rd., stay Hampshire Cellars and Keg Springs in abundance, year after year. What they didn’t know then was straight onto Jimmy G. Maury County, it is 931-285-0589 Winery, both located off Hampshire Pike/ that their farms were situated over the world’s largest deposit OFF-trail former hatter’s shop. now a home again after serving as the Robinson Rd. Go 3.7 miles, Hwy 412 toward the Natchez Trace Parkway. of phosphate, a powerful fertilizer. Phosphate ore in Mount If you enjoy fine architecture, turn right two stay R to N. Cross Bridges Maury County Historical Society’s meeting back on trail See page 10 for more info. Open Wed.-Sun. Pleasant was first discovered in 1888, sparking a booming new Rd. to view pts. 52 & 53. place from the 1970s-90s. blocks south of point 63 to see phosphate- From int. of Hampshire Pk. industry in phosphate mining and rapid community growth, financed houses(Private Residences) N. Cross Bridges Rd. & N. Cross Bridges Rd., 58. Zion Presbyterian Church – (L) The church was Cross Bridges 53. Lipscomb Place – (L) drawing workers from 25 states and before heading north on N. Main Street/Hwy continue straight on organized in 1807 by 11 descendant families 10 countries. Today, Mount Pleasant (Private Residence) Hampshire Pk. for 1.4 miles. of Scottish and Scots-Irish Presbyterians OFF-trail 243 to continue the main trail. This well-kept estate is a quaint small town, with a rich Turn R on Canaan Rd., go who originally immigrated to South Carolina S. Main Street/Hwy 243S to Hwy 43S takes and 1830 mansion once 0.9 mile, turn L on Zion Ln. industrial and Civil War history and around 1731. It was located in the center of down-home Tennessee charm. you to Lawrence County’s Amish Country. belonged to George Go 2.1 miles to pt. 58. 5,120 acres purchased from General Nathanael Lipscomb, a veteran 2322 Zion Rd. Greene’s land grant from the Revolutionary Points 60-67 are located in of Andrew Jackson’s Columbia 931-381-1272 War. These pioneer settlers erected the first Mount Pleasant. Seminole campaign. THE OLD TENNESSEE TRAIL continues on page 16. Return to Canaan Rd., turn L. church on this site even before building their 8 See Old Tennessee Trail map on page 12. Find more information at OldTnTrailAndByway.com. 9 lodging, Food & Wine along the old tennessee trail M{ tennessee CIVIL WAR TRAILS { M Between 1861-1865, Tennessee was a hotbed of Civil War activity. Forming the northern border of the Confederate States of America, Tennessee was the last state to secede from Here are just some of the many places to eat and stay along the Old Tennessee Trail. Find more options at Columbia OldTnTrailAndByway.com. Accommodations (in brown) and restaurants & wineries (in red) are listed here the Union and the first to rejoin after the war’s end. Many of in the order they appear on the trail, beginning in Leiper’s Fork. Call ahead for most lodging reservations. Q. By-Pass Deli – Sandwiches and salads. 1323 S. James Campbell Blvd. the war’s important sites are preserved and marked as a part 931-381-9634 of the Tennessee Civil War Trails program, part of a five-state Leiper’s Fork SantE FE R. Buckhead Coffee House – Fresh coffees, trails system that helps visitors explore the Civil War through the places that tell its story. A. Country Boy Restaurant – (See pg. 3, pt. 12) 4141 Old Hillsboro Rd. I. Papa Boudreaux’s Cajun Café – (See pg. 6, pt. 39) 3419 Fly Rd. pastries, sandwiches and specialty salads. 1173 Trotwood Ave. 931-388-0804. The battlefields in this area held some of the 615-591-4245. 931-682-0040. bloodiest conflicts of the war; look for markers B. Puckett’s Grocery – (See pg. 3, pt. 13) 4142 Old Hillsboro Rd. J. Creekview Farm Bed & Breakfast – S. Blue Moon Bed & Breakfast – 407 W. 6th St. throughout the Old Tennessee Trail, and pick 615-794-1308. Reservations accepted for weekend performances. Near Natchez Trace Parkway. 5177 Leipers 931-215-5783. (pictured) up trail brochures at any of the information C. Joe Natural’s Farm Store & Café – (See pg. 3, pt. 17) Creek Rd. 931-682-2775. (pictured) T. Copper Kettle Café & Catering – “Meat and centers and many of the museums on the route. 4150 Old Hillsboro Rd. 615-595-2233. three,” sandwiches, salads and Sunday brunch. Learn more at tnvacation.com. Hampshire 117 W. 7th St. 931-223-8803. D. Moonshine Hill – Where elegance meets country charm. K. Ridgetop Bed & Breakfast – On way to Amber Falls Winery & U. Square Market & Cafe – Old world taste with hometown charm. Tennessee’s Civil War Sesquicentennial 5456 Old Hwy 96. 615-500-1234.(pictured) Cellars. 2141 Columbia Hwy. 931-285-2777. 36 Public Sq. 931-840-3636. commemorates the 150th anniversary of the VRBO.COM: My wife and I frequently recommend L. Amber Falls Winery & Cellars – (See pg. 8) A little piece of V. Killion’s Coffee & Creamery – Coffee house drinks, sandwiches state’s participation in Moonshine Hill to anyone and everyone who is heaven. Free tastings. 794 Ridgetop Rd. 931-285-0088. and desserts. 40 Public Sq. 931-223-5902. the American Civil looking for somewhere sweet to get away. War. Tennessee ranks M. Keg Springs Winery – (See pg. 8) Ongoing events; free tastings. W. Christy’s 6th St. Restaurant & Café – Buffet, sandwiches, salads second in the country E Brigadoon Inn – Post-Civil War home 361 Keg Springs Rd. 931-285-0589. and fabulous desserts. 109 E. 6th St. 931-388-7109. in number of battle- offers luxury and privacy; walk to shop- Directions to wineries from Hampshire Museum (pg. 8, pt. 57): fields, and presents a ping, restaurants and antiquing. 4234 Exit museum, turn L on Hampshire Pk. Go 2.9 miles, turn R onto Culleoka unique and powerful Old Hillsboro Rd. 615-585-7557. (pictured) Ridgetop Rd. Go 1 mile, turn L on McClanahan Rd./Ridgetop Rd. Go X. Campbell Station Country Store & Restaurant – A “meat and history to Civil War F. Brigadoon: The Studio – Shabby chic 1.3 miles, turn L to stay on Ridgetop Rd. Go 1.1 mile to Amber Falls. three” tradition. 2800 Dodson Gap Rd. 931-987-5900. enthusiasts and studio in heart of village. 5519 Joseph St. ® curious visitors. To continue to Keg Springs, exit Amber Falls, turn L on Ridgetop Rd. Pottsville 615-585-7557. Go 0.5 mile. turn R on Cathey’s Creek Rd. Go 4.8 miles, turn L on Keg G. Leiper’s Fork Inn – Two 100-year-old houses were rescued, moved Springs Rd. Go 1 mile to Keg Springs. Y. Marcy Jo’s Mealhouse & Bakery – Great breakfasts and “meat and three.” Corner of Hwy 431 & Hwy 99. 931-380-0968. from Franklin to Leiper’s Fork and combined to create a cozy inn. To rejoin main trail at pt. 58: Exit Keg Springs by turning R on Keg 4254 Old Hillsboro Rd. 615-440-2799. Springs Rd. Go 1 mile, turn L on Cathey’s Creek Rd. Go 1.8 miles, turn Franklin FF. McCreary’s Irish Pub – A taste of Ireland on Franklin’s Main Street: R on Goodman Ln. Go 2.3 miles, turn L on Dry Fork Rd. Go 0.9 mile, Z. Magnolia House B&B – A few blocks from Carter House, Lotz fish ‘n’ chips, soups, burgers and shepherd’s pie. 414 Main St. Bethel turn L on US-412E/Hampshire Pk. Go 5.7 miles to N. Cross Bridges Rd. H. Nett’s Country Store – (See pg. 5, pt. 33) 4356 Skelley Rd. House and near Carnton Plantation. Private bath and luxury 615-591-3197. 931-682-2315. Mount PleasAnt amenities. 1317 Columbia Ave. 615-794-8178, 866-794-8178. GG. Marcia’s Patisserie – Elegant French tea salon offering world’s best teas to accompany delicious pastries. Breakfast, lunch and Did You KNOW N. The Pizza Place – Family run for 17 years. Great pizza. Expect it! AA. Franklin Mercantile – Specialty sandwiches, salad bar, fruit tea, dinner; closed Sun. 98 E. Main St. 615-790-2309. Frog legs are said to taste like chicken because of their mild 107 N. Main St. 931-379-3725. sweet tea and coffee. 100 4th Ave. N. 615-790-9730. flavor with a texture similar to chicken wings. Decide for your- HH. Dotson’s – Classic “meat and three” Southern comfort food. ? O. Mt. Pleasant Grille – (See pg. 9, pt. 63) On the BB. Merridee’s – Known for pastries and desserts. 110 4th Ave. S. self at Nett’s Country Store, where they’re a popular menu item. 99 E. Main St. 615-794-2805. square in historic downtown Mount Pleasant. 615-790-3755. 100 S. Main St. 931-379-7228. YELP.COM: We also couldn’t say no to one of the gigantic sugar cookies II. The Factory at Franklin – (See pg. 21, pt. 98) A vibrant dining, Did You KNOW sitting in the glass display. It was fabulous, as I’m sure all of their bakery shopping and entertainment complex. During the 1930s and ’40s, the upstairs room items are. I would have loved to try one of each! If you’re looking for an easy 230 Franklin Rd. 615-791-1777. ? ? at 100 S. Main Street (now Mt. Pleasant lunch of delicious sandwiches, soups, and salads, Merridee’s is your place. JJ. Arrington Vineyards – Great views what did we miss Grille), was the town meeting hall and enter- and beautiful sunsets. Free tastings. CC. Puckett’s – Real food, real people and real atmosphere. The information in this tainment venue, featuring Grand Ole 6211 Patton Rd., Arrington. 615-395-0102. Opry stars Eddy Arnold (pictured L), 120 4th Ave. S. Reservations accepted for weekend performances. brochure represents just a few (pictured) treasures along Tennessee back- Minnie Pearl, Roy Acuff and Little Jimmy DD. Sweet CeCe’s – Frozen yogurt with eye-catching toppings. Did You KNOW roads. Check out Dickens (pictured R), among others. The 500 W. Main St. 615-807-1412. OldTnTrailAndByway.com for complete In the tradition of the inns, or “stands,” once found along travel planning along this trail. While there, you’ll see a link entertainers would ride the train into EE. Riff Burgers – A creative new riff on ? the Old Trace, the Natchez Trace B&B Reservation Service to Facebook where you can share your experiences on the Mount Pleasant from Nashville and stop America’s favorite food. Custom grinds specializes in helping guests find an overnight spot to

Old Tennessee Trail. You can also post reviews on sites like to eat, relax, perform on stage and visit with the folks in town. of beef, pork, chicken, lamb, salmon and enhance their journey. Call Randy Fought at 800-377-2770/ Yelp.com or TripAdvisor.com. Be a trail blazer — help us P. Rattle and Snap Plantation Carriage House – (See pg. 16, pt. turkey; topped with imagination. 615-522-4865 or visit NatchezTraceTravel.com. build our trails and keep them updated. 65) 1522 N. Main St. 931-379-1700. Closed Sun. 94 E. Main St. 615-807-2249. (pictured) 10 See Old Tennessee Trail map on page 12. Find more information at OldTnTrailAndByway.com. 11 12 Numbers in green circles correspond to numbered Pointsnterest of i throughout this guide. letters in red circles correspond toood f & wine sites listed on pages 10 & 11. letters in brown circles correspond toodging l sites listed on pages 10 & 11. see the the story behiND the olD teNNesseet rAil on pages 22 & 23 for expanded history.

1 Point of Interest Visitor Information Main Trail Land Trust for Tennessee A Food & Wine Site Off-Trail Highlight Protected Property NASHVILLE D Lodging Site All locations on map Find out more at are approximate. OldTnTrailAndByways.com

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13 Plantation, Franklin; trail route. Downtown Columbia. 8” Festivals & events in the area enjoy The Great Outdoors along the old Tennessee trail

ONGOING Dances – Water Valley Community Center – Williamsport – Tennessee is filled with outdoor adventures, and Old Tennessee has opportunities at every turn. Mon. nights & 2nd Sat. night of month This guide provides you with several options, but for more, go to OldTnTrailAndByway.com. Pickin’ & Grinnin’ and Music & Dancing – Bethel Community Center – 3rd Sat. each month Adventure September Movies in the Lawnchair Theatre – Leiper’s Fork – Fri. nights, Jailbreak Triathlon – Columbia – Last Sat. Southport Saltpeter Cave – Tours by appointment. 2171 Mack June-Aug. Benderman Rd., Culleoka. 931-379-4404. Southern Fried Festival – Columbia – Last weekend Music in the Fork – Leiper’s Fork Did You KNOW Farms Sweet Tea Festival – Thompson’s Station – Last weekend Southport Saltpeter Cave is one of Middle Tennessee’s largest. Gentry’s Farm – (See pg. 2, pt. 7) Thousands visit this Century Farm April During the Civil War it was mined for nitrate for use in October ? each year and make an annual tradition of playing on the tire swing, making gun powder. picking pumpkins, navigating corn mazes and learning about beef Mule Day Benton Town – Leiper’s Fork – 1st weekend Columbia – 1st weekend cattle. This is a beautiful farm owned by the Gentry family since Country Ham Festival – Spring Hill – 1st Sat. Williamsport Wildlife Management Area – (See pg. 7, pt. 47) before the Civil War. Enjoy simple down-home fun and create lifelong facebook Favorite festival along the trail? Hunting and fishing. Entrance off Hwy 50, Williamsport. 931-583-2477. fan Old Tennessee Trail Yard Sale – Communities memories. Seasonal. 1974 New Hwy 96W, Franklin. 615-794-4368. favorite MULE DAY (in Columbia)! Lots along the Old Tennessee Trail – 2nd weekend Biking Did You KNOW of mules, arts, crafts, etc. Chili Cook-offs – Chickasaw Trace County Park & Mountain A Century Farm is a farm that has been continuously Main Street Festival – Franklin – Last full weekend • Leiper’s Fork – 3rd weekend Bike Trail – 300-acre park on the banks of ? owned by a family for 100 years or more. There are 48 certified Century Farms in Williamson and Maury Counties. • Columbia – 3rd Sat. the Duck River and Knob Creek; 8.5-mile trail May loop. 1417 Hwy 7, Columbia. 931-375-6103. Scarecrow Festival – Downtown Mount Pleasant – 4th weekend High Meadows Alpacas – This 150-acre Sunset Symphony – Columbia – 2nd Sat. Trace Bikes – Bike rental at Loveless Café, Battle of the BBQ – Franklin – Sat. before Halloween farm is owned by the Goldston family who off Natchez Trace. 8400 Hwy 100, Nashville. 615-646-2485. fulfilled their life-long passion of loving June Pumpkin Fest – Franklin – Sat. before Halloween Canoeing & Kayaking animals by raising and breeding alpacas to Town & Country Tour of Homes – Franklin/Williamson Vintage Affair Grape Stomp at Animalia – Franklin go along with their horses, geese, or any County – 1st full weekend Higher Pursuits – Reconnect to the heart of Columbia on the Duck other needy creature that arrives. Go in early Cheairs Lawn Party at Rippavilla Plantation – Spring Hill December River; guided canoe and kayak trips, rentals and primitive camping. May or on the last weekend in September, to Christmas on the Square – Downtown Mount Pleasant – 3114 Cheeks Bend Rd., Columbia. 931-840-8575. attend a farm days celebration with traditional artisan crafts. Call for July 1st weekend Foggy Bottom Canoe & Kayak Rentals – Take an easy float down scheduled tour. 3400 Floyd Rd., Franklin. 615-381-9546. Fourth of July Celebrations – Just about every community Christmas Parade – Leiper’s Fork – 1st weekend the Harpeth River through historic areas; primitive camping available. Noble Springs Dairy – This beautiful 230- along the Old Tennessee Trail has a July 4th event. Go to Dickens of a Christmas and The Carter House Candlelight Tour 1270 Hwy 70, near Nashville. 615-952-4062. acre goat dairy and cheese processing facility OldTnTrailAndByway.com or ask for information at a visitor center. – Franklin – 2nd full weekend Franklin Canoe & Kayak Company – Choose is family owned. It’s home to 70 Alpine • Franklin on the Fourth from five Harpeth River paddle trips; swim, goats, two Great Pyrenees, 12 chickens, two • Fireworks – Natchez Trace Wilderness Preserve See OldTnTrailAndByway.com for a complete event listing. fish or picnic along the way. Box lunches horses and Bubbles — a little rat terrier. available upon request. 615-400-9847. Trained by a Dutch cheese maker, this dairy River Rat Canoe Rental – Canoe and kayak produces some of the most delicious goat cheeses in Middle Tennessee. Call for appointment. 3144 Blazer Rd., learn more about history IN the old tennessee trail area rentals on Duck River; self-guided, class 1 trips range from 5-29 miles. 4361 Hwy 431, Columbia. 931-381-2278. Leiper’s Fork. 615-481-9546. Did You KNOW Ring Farm – A premier, country playground For Cause and for Country: A Study of the Affair at Spring Hill and the Leiper’s Fork & Surrounding Communities by Rick Warwick for family and friends with enough Battle of Franklin by Eric A. Jacobson The only place in the entire world Touring the Middle Tennessee Backroads by Robert Brandt ? that you can find Pygmy Madtom entertainment to fill an entire day. Get lost Historic Maury County — Places and People by Alice Algood, Widow of the South and A Separate Country (endangered species) is in Tennessee, in the corn maze, try the high-powered corn Illustrated by Mildred Hartsfield NYTimes best sellers by Robert Hicks in the Duck and Clinch Rivers. This cannon, see the sights on the a wagon ride truly tells the river’s conditions, as this type of catfish is very and make s’mores over a blazing bonfire. Mount Pleasant’s 100 South Main Street by Kathleen Graham-Gandy Williamson County – The Land & Its Legacy sensitive to toxic chemicals and increased sedimentation. Seasonal. 2628 Greensmill Rd., Columbia. Photography by Robin Hood, Text by Barry Parker 931-486-2395. Tip-A-Canoe – Offering one-hour trips to five-day excursions and Rippavilla Plantation – (See pg. 17, pt. 78) In the fall, stop in for You can purchase these books at historic everything in between. The oldest canoe and kayak rental company in hot chocolate around a bonfire and figure out the challenging corn bookstores in the area as well as Tennessee under the same management; family owned and operated. maze. Maze open mid-Sept.-Oct.; Rippavilla home tours, Early Farm Amazon.com. On Harpeth River, Hwy 70, near Nashville. 800-550-5810. Museum and gift shop open daily, year-round. 5700 Main St., Spring Landmark Booksellers (See pg. 21 pt. 97) Hill. 931-486-9037. Photo Credits: Robin Hood: Carl Road (cover), Leiper’s Fork (pg. 23); Hatcher Photography: Mt. Pleasant Yeoman’s In The Fork (See pg. 4, pt. 24) Grille (pgs. 9 & 10); Pg. 13: Carnton Plantation-Bruce Wolf; Pg. 14: Dickens of a Christmas-Peyton Hoge; Pg. 15: Pygmy Madtom-U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service; Pg. 18: Spring Hill Battlefield-The CWPT & Robert Shenk. 14 See Old Tennessee Trail map on page 12. Find more information at OldTnTrailAndByway.com. 15 interred here temporarily, along with two but you may THE OLD TENNESSEE TRAIL continueD FROM page 9. other generals (Strahl and Granbury). The M{ columbia { M recognize the cemetery also serves as the traditional burial charming down- Go NE on N. Main St./ 65. Rattle and Snap – (R) , original ground for Episcopal Bishops of Tennessee. Dozens of Civil War-era Antebellum homes still stand in and town square from TN-243 for 3.6 miles to owner of the property, won 5,648 acres of around the city of Columbia, as do many historic buildings with Hannah Montana: pt. 65. (marker on L). land in a game of chance called “Rattle and Continue NE on TN-243/ 68. Clifton Place – (R) (Private Residence) significant stories to share. Columbia is located in the center of The Movie. Park and walk to explore the area; 1522 N. Main St. Trotwood Ave. for 1.5 This was the 1832 home of politician and Tennessee, and tried unsuccessfully to become the state capital don’t miss the historic 1904 courthouse. Mount Pleasant Snap” and divided miles to pt. 68. it between his four Confederate General Gideon J. Pillow, a in the 1820s. Columbia is still known for its annual Mule Day, an 931-379-1700 Trotwood Ave. 76. The original Mount Lebanon Baptist sons. George Polk prominent lawyer, major landowner, and important community event since the 1840s, when Columbia was OFF-TRAIL TN-243 is also called Columbia Church (R) was established in 1843, the first built this mansion, friend and advisor to home to the world’s largest annual mule market. In its heyday, From sq., turn R on Mt. Pleasant Pk. and of its kind for former slaves in Tennessee. Trotwood Ave. named after the James K. Polk. Pillow the festival was a time for S. Main St., turn L on Its congregation has game and known played a major role in political stumping, outdoor E. 8th St. to pt. 76. met in this building as one of the best Southern agriculture, markets, medicine shows, and 218 E. 8th St. Columbia since 1885. A school examples of Greek Revival residential encouraging diversi- music, attracting 60,000 people for African-Americans architecture in the country. The Carriage fication of crops and at its peak in 1940. Mule Day Return to sq. began in the church House on the property is available for production of more lives on today, a popular and building after the Civil overnight stays. Tours by advance reservation. livestock in a time when rice and cotton beloved annual spring tradition. dominated the area. He was instrumental War ended, enduring Continue NE on TN-243 66. Hamilton Place – (L) (Private Residence) in President Polk’s nomination and election, Points 68-77 are located in even after the Ku Klux for 0.3 mile to pt. 66. This excellent 1832 example of Palladian- and served as a general in the Provisional Columbia. Klan ordered it to 1605 N. Main St. style architecture was the first of the four Army of Tennessee. He was ultimately disband. The surround- Mount Pleasant homes to be built on William Polk’s original OFF-TRAIL known best for his controversial decisions, U.S. This Federal-style ing area evolved into an African-American tract. The wealth required to build these Turn R on TN-50/James leading to the Civil War surrender of Fort structure was built by business district known as “Mink Slide” magnificent homes was Campbell Blvd. S., then Donelson to Ulysses S. Grant in 1862. his father, Samuel, and after World War II. tied directly to the R on Mooresville Pk. James K. Polk lived 77. In about 6.3 miles, you’ll pass the historic fertile soil, as the to pt. 69. 69. Historic Elm Springs – here between 1818 back on trail site of Polk’s boyhood home (R), which no Polks became very 740 Mooresville Pk. This 1837 Greek Revival and 1824, continuing Drive around sq., return Columbia longer stands. In another 2 miles, you’ll pass successful plantation mansion now houses to visit his mother to W. 7th St. Go 1 block, 931-380-1844 the University of Tennessee Agriculture owners. Hamilton Place the General Head- here frequently until turn R on US-31/ Retrace route to TN-243/ Research & Education Center (R). Since was built by Lucius quarters of the Sons of his own death in 1849. Garden St. Cross Duck Trotwood Ave. and rejoin River Bridge toward 1917, this 1,263-acre facility has conducted Polk for his wife, Mary Ann Eastin, shortly main trail. Confederate Veterans. Tour this National Historic Landmark and Spring Hill. research in crops and trees, production after they were married in the White House Explore the wonderful two other structures on the property to see UT Agriculture Research & efficiency, and beef and dairy cattle. during Andrew Jackson’s presidency. It is one back on trail Civil War gift shop. over 1,300 artifacts and mementos from Polk’s life, including original furniture and Education Center of the two remaining homes on the original TN-243/Trotwood Ave. 100 Main Entrance Dr. 78. Rippavilla Plantation – (R) This magnificent 70. The Athenaeum – (R) Constructed in 1835 as White House china. land. Westbrook (Rufus Polk) and Ashwood merges with W. 7th St. a private residence, in 1852 it became the Did You Columbia 1853 mansion was built by Nathaniel Hall () no longer stand. in Columbia. Know US-31 is also called Did You rectory of The Athenaeum, one of the most You can see the earliest known photograph Frances Cheairs IV, From pt. 68, go NW on Nashville Hwy. It becomes a Civil War colonel Know Leonidas Polk, second cousin of 11th highly regarded girls’ schools in the South. taken inside the White House at the James Main St. in Spring Hill. W. 7th St. for 4.6 miles. in the Confederate U.S. President James K. Polk, was Turn R on Athenaeum St. Its 22-acre campus K. Polk Home. Go NE on US-31 for 9.5 Army and the very instrumental in the founding of The to pt. 70. enrolled about 125 miles to pt. 78. female boarding ? 73. Polk Presidential Hall – This addition to the man that carried University of the South-Sewanee, 808 Athenaeum St. 5700 Main St. Pt. 73 is next door to Polk Home campus is the surrender flag ? featured on the Pie in the Sky: Columbia students at a time, pt. 72. Spring Hill 931-381-4822 housed in a restored 931-486-9037 at Fort Donelson MoonPies to Mountain Highs Trail. until its closing in Retrace route to 1904. The architec- 1882 vernacular Gothic in 1862. The property Continue NE on TN-243 67. St. John’s Church – (R) This 1842 church was W. 7th St., turn R. ture is a blend of Christian church build- was purchased by the for 0.7 mile to pt. 67. built where the Polk sons’ properties met. styles, from Gothic and Greek Revival to ing. Here you will see Saturn Corporation in Hwy 243 at Polk Ln. Leonidas, an Episcopal priest, convinced Italianate and Moorish. Tours available. more personal artifacts the 1980s and donated Mount Pleasant the other brothers to build a church on the from Polk’s life, and to Maury County. The Go 1 block, turn L on 71. APTA Historic Homes – occasionally, traveling land. As the Confederates passed by on Dunnington. Turn R on Tennessee Museum their way to the Battle (L) (Private Residences) Pt. 74 is across street exhibits from the of Early Farm Life W. 6th St. to view pt. 71. In just a short drive from pt. 72. Smithsonian Institute. of Franklin, General W. 6th St. is located on the grounds in two salvaged Columbia around W. 6th Street, 302 W. 7th St. barns. Open for tours. Patrick Cleburne Columbia Did You remarked that it was you’ll find many restored 74. Maury County Visitor Center Continue on W. 6th St. for 931-840-8324 Know It was at Rippavilla that General “almost worth dying 2 blocks, turn R on US-31. homes recognized by Go 0.1 mile E on John Bell Hood berated his to be buried in such a Go 1 block, turn R on the Association for the Preservation of W. 7th St. to pt. 75. 75. Columbia – Dozens of Civil War-era officers the morning after the beautiful spot.” When W. 7th St. Go 1 block to Tennessee Antiquities. pt. 72. homes still stand here and have helped “Spring Hill Incident”, striking General Cleburne was 303 W. 7th St. 72. James K. Polk Home – (L) This is the only earn Maury County the title “Antebellum ? at Franklin later that afternoon killed in the Battle of Columbia surviving home (excluding the White House) Homes Capital of Tennessee.” The town with disastrous results. Franklin, his body was 931-388-2354 of James Knox Polk, 11th president of the is most famous for its annual Mule Day, 16 See Old Tennessee Trail map on page 12. Find more information at OldTnTrailAndByway.com. 17 window, 17-year-old Alice Thompson saw OFF-TRAIL 79. Spring Hill Battlefield – (R) On November back on trail 81. Branham & Hughes Military Academy – (R) 29, 1864, this farmland became a Civil War Originally Branham & Hughes School for the Confederate color-bearer shot down, M{ thompson’s Station { M Continue NE on US-31 Turn R on US-31 for 1.6 and bolted from the house to lift up the battlefield. Confederates led by Generals Boys, an exclusive boys’ school in 1892, the The land of the town of Thompson’s Station once belonged for 1.4 miles, turn R Hood, Forrest, Cleburne, and Brown fought miles to pts. 81 & 82. school became a military academy in 1918. flag. Her courage inspired the Confederate onto Kedron Rd. Go 1 5350 Main St. soldiers to rally and defeat the Union. The to physician Elijah Thompson, who helped to finance the railroad mile to pt. 79. the Federals here, It closed during the Great Depression. that would support this small village. In the 1920s, Thompson’s but Union General Spring Hill property has a conservation easement Kedron Rd. 82. Ferguson Hall – (R) Station enjoyed a thriving railroad industry, transporting the Spring Hill Schofield and his from The Land Trust for Tennessee and a This 1854 home foundation has been started for Thompson’s abundant agricultural products from this area. Today, the town army of 25,000 men is planning for the future and managed to slip provided the archi- Station Battlefield Park. tectural inspiration balancing its agrarian past with away and retreat Continue NE on US-31 85. Roderick Place – (R) (Private Residence) growth pressures by proactively to Franklin over- for Rippavilla (point 78), and was for 0.5 mile to pt. 85. On March 5, 1863, portions of the Battle of employing smart growth concepts night, where a bloody battle would take place 4626 Columbia Pk. Thompson’s Station to preserve its beautiful landscapes the next day. It is estimated that 10,000 a private residence Thompson’s Station until 1905. Ferguson Hall and its 57 acres then were fought along and natural resources. soldiers fought that day and 850 men lost the ridges that became a part of the Branham & Hughes Points 83-85 are located in their lives. Stop and walk through part of the border this site. 110-acre battlefield, preserved and protected Campus, and eventually housed the Thompson’s Station. Tennessee Orphan’s Home. Today, the office Roderick, General by the Civil War Preservation Trust and Forrest’s coura- maintained as farmland since the war. of the Tennessee Children’s Home sits on the grounds. Tours by reservation. geous mount, was Did You mortally wounded galloping to the general’s detailed relief map of the conflict and Continue S on 80. Oaklawn – (R) (Private Residence) The several memorials honoring fallen Kedron Rd. for 1.1 Know Ferguson Hall is famous for the 1863 side during the battle and is buried here. peaceful estate you Confederate generals killed in combat. miles, turn R onto murder of Confederate General E. Did You see today served as Continue N on US-31 86. Laurel Hill – (L) (Private Residence) Denning Ln. to pt. 80. the headquarters for Van Dorn, shot by a doctor in the Know From Winstead Hill, you can view the 3331 Denning Ln. community who believed Van Dorn for 1.9 miles, veer L to This 1854 home gets its name from the Confederate General stay on US-31 (following landscape from General Hood’s vantage point Spring Hill ? to be romantically involved with mountain laurel that once grew on the lawn Hood on the night of signs to Carter House). as he watched his men march north to meet Retrace route to US-31. his wife. Van Dorn was using the home as a and surrounding property. The thin columns the Union’s inexpli- Go 0.5 mile on US-31 to are architecturally unusual for the area, the Union. Park, walk to the top of the hill, Turn R on US-31/ military headquarters during the Civil War. pt. 86. ? and imagine the battle unfolding. Main St. to return to cable retreat to and its interior Franklin from the 4329 Columbia Pk. main trail. 83. As you continue to drive into Thompson’s Franklin is said to boast Continue N on US-31, This open ground Spring Hill battlefield. OFF-TRAIL 89. Station, the Battle of Thompson’s Station Continue N on solid wood floors turn R on Mack Hatcher is known as the Badly injured and Continue NE on US-31 unfolds. During a quiet period following US-31 through pastoral of ash, poplar, Pkwy. Go 1.7 miles, Eastern Flank believed to be sedated for pain, General turn L on Lewisburg Pk./ for 3.6 miles, turn L on the Battle of Stones River, Union soldiers farmland and cross into and walnut over Battlefield Park Hood slept here while the Thompson Station Rd. US-431. ventured to the area north of Spring Hill Franklin city limits. two-and-a-half (L). Formerly the slipped through the Confederates’ grasp. Stay R to continue inches thick. Imagine a line of Did You on Thompson Station Rd. to collect food and hay. On March 5, 1863, Southern boys standing Country Club of Know Oaklawn was once the home of to pt. 83. General Nathan Bedford Forrest’s cavalry General Hood’s officers stopped here on along this route. Franklin, the 112- their way to the fateful Battle of Franklin. country music legends George 1550 Thompson Station Rd. awaited them, and launched the second Go 1 mile to pt. 89. acre site was purchased through a public- Thompson’s Station Jones and Tammy Wynette. largest Civil War battle in Williamson Continue N on US-31 for 87. Harrison House – (L) (Private Residence) 1343 Carnton Ln. private partnership and is the largest Retrace route back to County, ending with the capture of Union 2.8 miles to pt. 87. This 1848 home became General Hood’s Franklin battlefield reclamation in the nation. ? US-31, turn L to rejoin Colonel John Coburn and 1,800 casualties. 4800 Columbia Pk. headquarters during the Battle of Franklin. main trail. The road ends at Continue NW on 90. Carnton Plantation and McGavock Franklin Outlining the plan of attack on November Lewisburg Pk./US-431 the replica of Confederate Cemetery – This Antebellum M{ spring hill { M 30, Generals Hood and Forrest engaged in for 0.2 mile, turn L mansion dates Thompson’s an argument here about military tactics, on Carnton Ln. Follow Originally known as Peters’ Campground for the 1819 Station’s railroad road to pt. 90. back to 1826, leaving Forrest in built by former Methodist church that anchored the community, Spring Hill was depot. Look up a rage and sealing 1345 Carnton Ln. settled in the early 1800s by families with ties to the Eastern the hill behind the Franklin Nashville Mayor the Confederacy’s 615-794-0903 Randal McGavock. states. The town of Spring Hill holds many fascinating Civil War depot to see the fate with Hood’s stories in its historic buildings and battlefields, including an Heron Farm, Land Trust protected in 2007. During the Civil disastrous plan. War, it was the unexplained missed opportunity for the Confederates and the This was a place scandalous murder of a general. Today, this rich history is tucked back on trail 84. Homestead Manor – home of Colonel John and Carrie McGavock, (L) Much of the where wounded featured in the best-selling novel Widow of into a community that has recently boomed with industry. In the From Thompson Station soldiers were brought and some buried. 1980s, General Motors purchased Rd., go NE on US-31 for hard fighting in the the South. Just a few hundred yards from Battle of Thompson’s 1,000 acres of land in Spring Hill 3.8 miles to pt. 84. Continue N on US-31 for 88. Winstead Hill – the front lines of battle, the home served as Station took place on to launch its Saturn brand, leading 4683 Columbia Pk. 0.4 mile to pt. 88. (L) This public a hospital during the Battle of Franklin, and Thompson’s Station this property. The 4023 Columbia Pk. its wood floors still show blood stains from to incredibly rapid population and 615-790-2309 park marks the commercial growth. 1809 home sheltered Franklin Confederate Army’s the more than 300 soldiers brought in that many local women and staging area dur- day. Generals Cleburne, Granbury, Adams Points 78-82 are located in children in its cellar as and Strahl’s bodies laid on the back porch Spring Hill. ing the Battle of the battle took place. Franklin. See a after the battle. The adjacent McGavock While watching the action from the cellar 18 See Old Tennessee Trail map on page 12. Find more information at OldTnTrailAndByway.com. 19 Confederate Cemetery Carter home during the bloody battle, Reservations: Franklin on Foot – Take a guided walking contains 1,500 graves, M{ battle of franklin { M emerging to find bodies “so thick you 615-400-3808 tour with enthusiastic, knowledgeable hosts the largest private couldn’t take a step without walking on who will make your visit to Franklin an Confederate cemetery The Battle of Franklin is known as the “Five Tragic Hours,” as one of them.” Pickets from the Lotz family’s unforgettable experience. Choose from in the U.S. Today, the Confederate General John Bell Hood launched a desperate attempt fence were used by the soldiers to build themes like Classic Franklin, Civil War and plantation is restored, to keep the Union soldiers from advancing to Nashville. One of the barricades, and blood from both sides still Ghost Tours. Reservations required; fee charged. open for public tours, few night battles of the Civil War, it ended in 7,250 Confederate stains the floors, as the house was used casualties (including six officers) and 2,326 Federal casualties. No matter how you choose to explore down- and is used for private as a military hospital for several months town, don’t miss these historic highlights: and community events. The Union forces were well-entrenched here, having escaped following the battle. “Battlefield Walking Hood’s army at Spring Hill the day before and fortified their post Tours” are led here by Thomas Cartwright, a 419 W. Main St. 96. Franklin Theatre – This state-of-the-art facebook I would recommend a visit to Carnton to anyone... at Franklin. Injured and angered by the previous day’s events, leading authority on the Battle of Franklin. Franklin renovated 1937 Art Deco theatre offers fan It’s hard to not be moved by that beautiful, old Did You 615-538-2075 favorite and against the counsel of his subordinates, Hood marched his Know world-class live music, movies and Tennessee house and the events of that day following army north from Spring Hill and launched 13 separate frontal Matilda Lotz celebrated her community events. the Battle of Franklin. assaults on the Federal forces here. At night’s end, General John sixth birthday the day before When it opened, it Schofield and his troops withdrew in the darkness and moved the Battle of Franklin. was the only air- Williamson County resident Robert on toward Nashville, leaving the Confederate Witnessing a scene that left conditioned build- Did You Hicks was inspired by the Battle of ? 10,000 wounded or dead must Army with a broken spirit and enormous ing in town; in its Know Franklin and the events at Carnton losses. The opposing forces would soon meet have contributed to her bold- early days, it Plantation to write his critically again in Nashville, ness for a female of that era, even served as a acclaimed New York Times best but the Battle of as she later traveled the world as an artist and Vaudeville-style theatre. The marquee you seller, The Widow of the South. Franklin is known became the first woman honored by the Paris see today is a faithful reproduction of the ? Academy of Painting. After leaving pt. 90, 91. Attack on the as the death knell original and is especially striking at night. turn L on Lewisburg Pk./ of the Confederacy Union Left – (L) Retrace your route, 95. Downtown Franklin – Back in downtown 114 E. Main St. 97. Landmark Booksellers – This building US-431. Go 0.2 mile to or Gettysburg of Across this ground turn L on Columbia Pk. Franklin, the Old Tennessee Trail ends where Franklin is one of the oldest pt. 91. the West. Go 0.3 mile to surged elements it began. This town square holds dozens of 615-791-6400 in Franklin and the 418 Lewisburg Pk. of General William W. Main St. Bear R, unique shopping and dining experiences, Franklin continue 0.1 mile earliest example of Loring’s division, to pt. 95. but remains true to its Main Street identity, Greek Revival archi- composed of Turn R on Columbia Pk. 93. Carter House – (L) This 1830 house and with brick sidewalks and beautifully Go 0.1 mile, turn L on tecture in Tennessee. Mississippi, , and Louisiana troops. its buildings hold more than a thousand restored buildings in the 16-block historic Originally, this was W. Fowlkes. Go 0.1 mile bullet holes, received during the Battle They crashed into the Union line, held by to pt. 93 entrance. district. Today, it’s an upscale suburb of the factory store Indiana troops, with little success. Loring’s of Franklin on November 30, 1864. In fact, Nashville, named to Southern Living’s “Best for a large cotton 1140 Columbia Ave. the farm office on the property is known to Did You attack soon collapsed. Franklin Small Town” top 10 list. Now that you have manufacturer on Main Know 615-791-1861 be the most bullet-damaged building still a sense of the Street. During the General William Loring’s nickname standing from the Civil War. Some of the area’s rich history, was “Old Blizzard” for his battle Civil War, the building was used as a field bloodiest hand-to- take in the town hospital for Union and Confederate soldiers. cry,“Give them blizzards, boys!” hand combat took square with a ? 92. Assault on Cotton Gin Park – place right here, as new perspective. Go NE on E. Main St. 98. The Factory at Franklin – (R) Make plans Continue NW on the Carter family Walk these streets toward 2nd Ave. S. and to spend some (L) This stack of cannonballs marks the follow Franklin Rd./ Lewisburg Pk./US-431 heart of the Battle of Franklin, referred to hid in the base- and imagine the time exploring for 0.1 mile, turn L on US-31 for 0.6 mile to as the “slaughter pen.” This site, home to ment for safety. events, people and culture that have shaped pt. 98. this 12-building Stewart St. Go 0.2 mile Today, the Carter dining, retail and to pt. 92. Carter’s Cotton Gin, provided excellent cover it for hundreds of years. 230 Franklin Rd. House, its buildings, and eight acres of entertainment 109 Cleburne St. for Union soldiers Franklin is a “Great American Main Street,” designated by Franklin Franklin and clear shots of its property are preserved and open to the 615-791-1777 complex. It’s a public, including a fascinating museum, gift the National Trust for Historic Preservation. It is the only welcome break the Confederates. recipient in Tennessee and among the first in the U.S. Confederate Major shop and guided tours. from large chain stores and malls, while still offering a variety of restaurants and General Cleburne, After touring pt. 93, 94. Lotz House – (R) 209 E. Main St. Stop back by the Williamson County Visitor Brigadier Generals cross street to pt. 94. Franklin Center (point 1) and ask about these two activities for everyone in the family. You’ll find beautifully 615-591-8514 Strahl, Carter, 1111 Columbia Ave. designed fireplaces, unique ways to enjoy Franklin: Visiting our region helps us preserve and Granbury and Adams lost their lives along Franklin well-preserved antique tell our stories — what are now Cleburne and Strahl Streets. 615-790-7190 Franklin iPad Tour App – Featuring over furnishings and deco- 260 photos, this free download from iTunes thanks for visit- Losing these officers was a mighty blow to rative arts from the ing, and no the Confederate forces, from which they tells the history and the 1820s to the 1860s stories of Franklin’s 16-block matter where never recovered. A fast-food restaurant in this 1858 home, your travels take once sat on this site, now reclaimed and downtown district listed as well as cannonball on the National Historic you next, keep protected thanks to efforts from community scars from the Battle exploring! and historical groups. Register. iPads available at of Franklin. The Lotz family stayed safe visitor center. across the street in the basement of the 20 See Old Tennessee Trail map on page 12. Find more information at OldTnTrailAndByway.com. 21 This is the story behind the stops: watch it unfold The story behind the old tennessee trail behind the country stores and rolling hills. As you follow the Old Tennessee Trail, you follow the path of history in this area, beginning with prehistoric hunters and ending with fearless generals. M{ settlers { M {1776} {1779 -1800} {1801-1819} {1820s -1864}

Native Americans Get New Neighbors Fort Nashborough, Transylvania The Natchez Trace and Leiper’s Fork dynasty on the duck Prehistoric people and historic-era Native In the late 1700s, the Cherokee “sold” 20 million acres of First a buffalo trail, then a network of Native American footpaths, Welcome to the seat of U.S. political American tribes once hunted and thrived in this land to Judge Richard Henderson’s Transylvania Land Company in then a treacherous way home for the Kaintuck flatboat operators, and economic power in the mid-1800s. lush setting, including Cherokee, Chickasaw, exchange for household goods. The exchange violated colonial the Natchez Trace saw a lot of traffic before it became useful to The wealth in the Duck River area was Shawnee, Creek, and Choctaw tribes. In the laws and the Royal Proclamation, but Henderson and a few hundred the Federal Government in the 1800s. In comparable to modern oil dynasties, late 1700s, company and commerce came to brave settlers forged ahead to establish the Fort Nashborough 1801, the trail was designated as an official generated by a combination of deep, the area when French Canadian trader Timothy settlement. While the Cherokee profited from the deal, other postal road between Nashville and Natchez, near-perfect soil, abundant land, and slave labor. The ability to own Demonbreun established seasonal trade with tribes didn’t recognize the settlers’ claim to the land, and attacks Mississippi, leading to bridges and widened slaves was crucial to economic growth (and, therefore political the Native Americans near the banks of the on the settlers were frequent and brutal. Henderson later tried to road beds along the way. Communities like power) and to sustaining this way of life. The invaluable Cumberland River. The English and French soon get Transylvania’s 20 million acres (in Tennessee and Kentucky) Leiper’s Fork began to pop up along the Trace, historic homes and churches that still stand here illustrate competed to dominate trade with the tribes — recognized as the 14th colony, but all except a small portion of anchored by general stores, schools, and what life was like in the country’s most powerful political guns and supplies for valuable furs — putting pressure his land claims were denied. In 1785, a formal agreement defined churches. During the War of 1812, Andrew and economic circles, whose members included Andrew on available natural resources and creating competition the settlement area between the Cumberland (north) and the Jackson’s troops made use of the Trace to Jackson and his ally James K. Polk, the country’s first and friction between the tribes. Federal treaties and Tennessee Valley Divide (south). Revolutionary soldiers were get to the Battle of New Orleans, where he non-eastern presidents. state laws to keep settlers out of the area were nearly given federal land grants within these boundaries as payment became famous for defeating the British. impossible to enforce, and small, stubborn settlements for their service. Some settled here, and many sold their land See tour points 46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-60, 65-73, 75, 76 See tour points 10, 25, 26 for related subjects. popped up throughout the territory. to more adventurous folks who would homestead in the area, like for related subjects. the family of Thomas Hart Benton. See tour points 25, 26, 30 for related subjects.

M{ soldiers { M { November 28-30,1864} {1865-1870} {Present Day} Hoo d ’s Bi g Id e a Hood’s fatal mistake and artillery fire, with no ability to return A Difficult Reconstruction Radical Republican vote. Violence escalated today’s old tennessee trail fire. In just five hours of continued frontal around the 1868 presidential election, Civil War history dominates the second During the night, General Schofield assault, 10,000 men were dead, wounded Following the Civil War, Tennessee’s and martial law was declared in nine Middle This is half of the Old Tennessee Trail. General moved 25,000 men and 600 wagons or missing. Most were Confederates. new Radical Republican Governor William and West Tennessee counties. In 1869, just one John Bell Hood was the youngest right past Hood’s troops as they slept, By midnight, the Union forces were off G. Brownlow made it his mission to keep Grand Wizard Forrest formally ordered the layer of general in the Confederacy, a reactive heading north to Franklin, where to Nashville with Hood and his remaining Confederates out of Tennessee politics, Klan to disband, but the movement the many strategist, known for his temper and they began building trenches men following the next day. The local barring them from voting for 5-15 years. It had grown too strong, and the organized Tennessee aggressive decision-making that and breastworks surrounding the residents were left to bury the dead and was a controversial move that passed the violence continued. Stories shaped the outcome of the war. Carter House. When Hood woke tend the wounded in their own homes. Tennessee Legislature, but polarized the After Governor Brownlow resigned that pave Following General William T. Sherman’s and realized he had lost his best The recorded accounts of that afternoon Republican and Democratic parties. to accept a Senate seat, his successor, the Old capture of Atlanta, Hood moved his chance to isolate and defeat the are gruesome, with stories of Confederate Political tensions hurt Republican DeWitt Senter, faced a Tennessee troops to Mount Pleasant and set out Union Army, he was enraged with bodies piled so deep that some of the Brownlow’s support in the tough nomination race for re-election. Trail. Today, this area remains both fertile to organize a risky strategy: taking his troops and vowed to show them dead were left standing among the stacks. next election, so he engaged Senter immediately relaxed all voting agricultural area and affluent community, Union-occupied Nashville and Franklin some discipline. On December 16 in Nashville, Hood’s a new voter base, making restrictions, winning overwhelming with hundreds of stories to tell, on the trail in order to capture supplies, march on to Tennessee the first state to and off. Hoo d ’s d is a s t er struggling army was defeated decisively by Confederate support and easily taking Virginia, and reinforce General Robert E. Union forces. Hood retreated to Mississippi, allow freedmen to vote in 1867. the election. The Conservatives’ Lee’s struggling forces. On November 28, Hood hurried his men to Franklin, where he resigned. The Confederate forces The win was an easy one, due to voting power also dramatically changed General ’s Union troops beat staging his troops at Winstead Hill and never recovered from the heavy losses African-American voter turnout. the makeup of the state House and Hood to Columbia. That night, Hood’s troops meeting with his officers at Harrison House. This did not sit well with the suffered under his leadership. The Civil War Senate, and support for minority issues Dig deepe occupied Columbia south of the Duck. The He predicted that the Union would abandon Conservative Confederates, still unable r into officially ended April 9, 1865, with General disintegrated. Te nness next day, Hood brilliantly circled his troops Franklin and head to Nashville if his men to vote. The Ku Klux Klan (KKK) was born ee’ s Lee’s surrender in Appomattox Court House, vibrant history to the southeast and beat Schofield to attacked, and planned to do so against the Virginia. Out of 2.4 million fighting soldiers, in Pulaski, Tennessee, with Confederate at Spring Hill. Hood set up headquarters at counsel of his advisors. Hood’s men had no General Nathan Bedford Forrest named the { OLDTNH 630,000 were killed. The colorful stories and interesting facts you’ll find along the ISTORY.COM Oaklawn and slept soundly, believing that artillery for the mission, but that didn’t stop first Grand Wizard in 1867. } See tour points 75, 78-80, 86-95 for Old Tennessee Trail have been uncovered with the invaluable Schofield and his troops were still stationed him. He ordered his troops to march across The KKK relied on intimidation and help of county tourism partners and historians in these communities. near Columbia. two miles of open field, directly into cannon related subjects. terror tactics to suppress the freedmen and

22 See Old Tennessee Trail map on page 12. Find more information at OldTnTrailAndByway.com. 23