COURREGES SAID ON BLOCK/2 EDITORS’ HIGH SCHOOL DAYS/29 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ DailyFRIDAY Newspaper • September 15, 2006 • $2.00 Beauty

Art Class NEW YORK — Layers, ruffl es and ruching, anyone? Yes, if they’re done as magnifi cently as in the collection Vera Wang sent out on Thursday. The designer balanced the bold with the delicate, the dreamy with the poised, showing a lineup that illustrated her artful aesthetic. Here, Wang’s ruffl ed and veiled top and brocade skirt. For more on the shows, see pages 4 to 11.

Live at Lincoln Center? IMG May Have to Say Adieu to Bryant Park By Marc Karimzadeh NEW YORK — The fashion shows at Bryant Park could be on thin ice. Buzz was building on Thursday that IMG, which owns 7th on Sixth, may be forced to find a new location for the next round of collections in February if an agreement with the Bryant Park Restoration Committee is not reached imminently. According to sources, the Bryant Park Corp. has long been disgruntled with the timing of the shows. When the spring shows moved from November to the beginning of September, it also meant having to close the park on See Last, Page 21 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 WWD.COM Hilary Duff Shows Her Stuff at Macy’s NEW YORK — It was a success- projects to be jettisoned. “I ful 90 minutes for Hilary Duff on Hilary want to stay away from makeup Thursday evening, who sold an Duff for right now, although I might WWDFRIDAY estimated $25,000 worth of her do it in the future. I want to Beauty new Elizabeth Arden fragrance have the time to really focus on With Love Hilary Duff during a it and learn about it, like I did NEW YORK COLLECTIONS Vera Wang layered it on, Francisco Costa channeled Helmut Lang at personal appearance at Macy’s ZACK SECKLER PHOTO BY with the fragrance.” Herald Square. Duff currently is finish- 4 Calvin Klein and Badgley Mischka took on Shaker style. While Duff kicked off her ing up her new album, which 18th birthday last September “hopefully will be out in Nov- with the announcement she ember,” she said, and consid- BEAUTY was founding a lifestyle empire, ering several fi lm projects. In Tousled styles, smudged eyeliner and cream blush smoothed on with the celebrity is taking time now addition, her tween clothing 24 fi ngers ruled the runways this week in New York. to develop the projects she’s al- line has been launched, and Clinique plans to blaze a new retail path in Canada that could provide ready committed to. Duff has another apparel proj- 27 relief from claustrophobic U.S. department store consolidation. “There are a few things that ect on her wish list: “Hopefully we’ve done that I won’t be con- we’ll be doing a more exclusive tinuing, because I just don’t line meant for girls my age and GENERAL have enough time,” she said, older,” she said. The Bryant Park tents could be folding after 13 years, except for one adding that limited-edition cos- — Julie Naughton 1 disastrous season at Chelsea Piers, if a deal can’t be worked out. metics palettes were among the and Pete Born Courrèges, an iconic Sixties brand owned by founder André Courrèges 2 and his wife, Coqueline, and still big in Japan, is said to be in play. Hermès International on Thursday said solid sales at its retail network 18 helped lift fi rst-half profi ts 7.8 percent to $228.4 million. Courrèges Exploring Possible Sale The fi rst half of its fi nancial year isn’t over, but Richemont executive 18 chairman Johann Rupert is already upbeat about fi scal 2007. By Miles Socha Function has typically prevailed over form in surf swimwear, but small 20 and midtier brands fi ghting for a toehold are pushing the style quotient. PARIS — Courrèges, one of the The department and specialty store sectors saw sales fall in August, most iconic brands of the Sixties while overall retail spending rose, the Commerce Department reported. and still a giant business in Japan, 20 is in play, WWD has learned. According to market sourc- EYE es, the fi rm, owned by founder Fashion types are a self-focused bunch, so even at a screening of Andre Courrèges and his wife, 12 much-hyped “The Black Dahlia,” conversation strayed toward clothes. Coqueline, has been approached with at least one offer and the Classifi ed Advertisements...... 31 couple is evaluating market in- terest. The identity of potential To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. buyers could not be learned. [email protected], using the individual’s name. Given the brand’s wide re- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- nown, which contrasts with a lim- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. ited geographic distribution, the VOLUME 192, NO. 57. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- company is expected to attract ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, a wide range of possible suitors Andre Courrèges; Coqueline Courrèges with one of her designs. and could attract bids of more Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers than 100 million euros, or $127 lion at current exchange, refl ect- car designed by the fi rm. Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; million at current exchange. ing the brand’s popularity there, Courrèges abruptly ended David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Today, Courrèges operates a according to market sources. wholesale distribution of its fash- Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance global fl agship on Rue François Courrèges is considered ripe for ions and accessories in 2002, cut- Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Premier in Paris — the only out- expansion in Asia, particularly ting ties with such U.S. retailers Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. let in the world for its fragranc- in China and South Korea. as Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable es — and coordinates a massive Reached on Thursday, a Cour- Marcus and Jeffrey, which had Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS licensed business in Japan. règes spokeswoman declined all generated good business with CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, Courrèges retail sales in comment on a possible sale of the a brand they characterized as ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR Japan are estimated at around company — while offering press “fun.” “There was a lot of un- DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four 400 million euros, or $508 mil- materials on a futuristic concept tapped potential there for really weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. doing something with the brand,” Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Jeffrey Kalinsky said at the time. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, Founded in 1961, Courrèges and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions is synonymous with go-go boots, and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To short dresses and a futuristic subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make logo. As it if were frozen in time, our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would the all-white Paris boutique interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise is a step back to the Space Age us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Sixties, with its Perspex fi xtures WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- and racks displaying patent jack- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- ets and iconic handbags. ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, The house is said to have a OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED vast and meticulously preserved archive of clothing and leather goods — and wields tight control over the design of all products. Coqueline Courrèges, an en- Quote of the Week ergetic, impulsive woman of 71, has headed the business for “He hated me and hated my mother…. more than a decade. In recent years, she has staged unusual I have not seen him for over 50 years, “happenings” to show her de- signs, once putting a boiling pot have no idea what his children look of tar in her Paris boutique and casting a jacket in resin. like. He was never in Baden Baden in She also canceled a fashion show at the last minute in 1995, fear- my parents’ house there.’’ ing others would copy her designs. Courrèges has long been — Karl Lagerfeld on his late cousin, eyed by fashion conglomerates. Kurt, a source in a new book. During the height of the acquisi- tions frenzy in the late Nineties, many suitors came knock- ing, ranging from LVMH Moët Correction Hennessy Louis Vuitton to Gucci Hours for the Fashion Coterie are 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. on Tuesday, Group, sources said. Sept. 19, and Wednesday, Sept. 20, and 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Thurs- However, the asking price day, Sept. 21. They were incorrect on page 4 of the WWDCoterie and terms of sale were said to Section II, Wednesday. be off-putting. Arrive on time in Europe’s fashion capitals.

Fly in style with award-winning service.

Give new meaning to “shop until you drop.”

All for this one moment.

Depart from 16 U.S. gateways SM to over 100 European destinations. There’s no better way to fly. Visit lufthansa-usa.com. 4 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 The Age of Eleg A gentle, often moody, spirit graced the runways this season, where looks were voluminous, light and refi ned.

Vera Wang: Vera Wang could not have anticipated while designing her beautifully moody spring collection just how poignant its gentle aura would prove. Wang’s father died early on Thursday with her at his bedside. At one in the morning, she got the call that he was failing, and rushed from her Park Avenue apartment to Southampton just in time. She then returned to the city to present her show. “He waited for me,” she said backstage. C.C. Wang died knowing that his unspoiled, hard- working daughter is at the top of her game and now a major force in ready-to-wear. After fi nally signing the Kohl’s deal — through which she will realize her long-standing goal of designing for the masses — Wang sent a dazzling reminder, lest anyone had wondered, that she has no intention of relinquishing her post at the upper reaches of fashion’s high-low split. All their mesmerizing delicacy aside, these clothes screamed highfalutin as Wang delivered both poetic reverie and creative manifesto; while once she merely dabbled in artsy, she now lays claim to a boldly artful aesthetic. Continuing from resort, she pilfered elements from a dancer’s wardrobe — cozy sweaters, undershirts, warm-up pants, practice dresses — and crossed them with geisha gear in volume, kimono shapes and stiffened fabrics, all in a dreamily subdued palette. And she beaded, bunched, layered, ruffl ed and ruched with a lightness seemingly impossible with so much ▲Vera Wang ▲ going on. A zippered cashmere cardigan slid off the shoulder over Vera Wang a frothy blush organza dress and chiffon pants; a pair of ceremonial dresses came in layers, the outer kimono hand-painted with dramatic strokes of blue. Evening saw masterful gowns in crinkled chiffon and washed gold lamé worn with the ease of an old robe. It was all magnifi cent and poised, as was Wang’s emotional bow.

Calvin Klein: Guests at Calvin Klein didn’t realize they were in for a ride, but on Thursday, Francisco Costa charted a direct course for Helmut-land. He opened with several subtle dresses layered in wafting gauze, but the unsubtle nature of his homage to Helmut Lang was stunning. From the show space to the clothes themselves, Costa echoed a very specifi c phase in Lang’s career: his artsy, ethereal stage. Dresses fl uttered with too- familiar streamers and were cut in a very distinctive palette that had some wondering aloud if Helmut’s longtime collaborator Melanie Ward was backstage (she wasn’t). It’s unfortunate for Costa that, after stepping out of Calvin Klein’s shadow, he’d step into Lang’s. But simply put, he should know better. But for those who don’t know better, or who just don’t care, there were attractive pieces to be found. Working a sportif spacey edge, Costa’s layers arced across the body revealing or veiling stretch underpinnings below. Thick scuba fabric and industrial mesh took the look techno. A boxy croc coat upped the ante on big luxe. And yet, like the song says, it’s never as good as the fi rst time.

Badgley Mischka: Mark Badgley and James Mischka may be known for their high-voltage entrance makers, but for spring they took on one highly unlikely theme: Shaker style. “The elegance and simplicity,” Mischka explained before the show. “Not the self-deprivation and the torture.” But even if they don’t know a Shaker from a Quaker, the designers did a fi ne job at toning down their look and refi ning its details. Dresses in pristine white cotton lace were made modestly glam with ribbon and crystal trim, and throughout a light touch in the beading department meant gowns twinkled instead of going bling. Gossamer Empire numbers were layered with feathery lace, while a mere crust of crystal beading peeped out from the bodice of a billowy chiffon gown. As the Shakers say: ’Tis a gift to be simple — but, you know, decorated. WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 5 WWD.COM gance ▲

▲ Badgley Mischka ▲

▲ Calvin Klein

NEW YORK Calvin Klein PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT PHOTOS BY 6 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006

J.Mendel: Architect Eero Saarinen’s expressive, sweeping curves informed Gilles Mendel’s take on voluminous looks for spring. Specifi cally, Mendel created triangular shapes for his coats and jackets and layered organza and tulle for his short, swingy skirts. A standout example of the architectural slant was the designer’s multi-seamed, alabaster mink coat worn over a little organza dress that echoed the same seam detailing. Mendel has been moving more heavily into the ready-to- wear realm, but one wishes there were more of these featherweight spring furs.

▲ ▲ J.Mendel NEW The Bold and YORK the Beautiful Whether decadent and bright or easy and light, spring looks featured frilly layers, billowing shapes and playful prints. WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Anna Sui: With indie queen Sofi a Coppola beaming in the front row and plenty of Marie Antoinette romance on the runway, Anna Sui’s spring collection was an urban ode to those bygone days at Versailles. Still, while Sui’s Louis XIV romp was cinematic enough, it was no costume drama. In a melee of playful prints — wallpaper fl orals to folkloric to Art Nouveau — she layered her fl eets of girlish dresses with punkish trimmings and pirate stripes. Only a sure hand could mix those sundry elements with such abandon and come up with a look that was both charming and cool. And while Sui’s styling was winsomely wild, back in the showroom those clothes will boast just as much real-life appeal. Now that’s having your cake, and eating it, too.

Diesel: “This is classic Diesel,” proclaimed Wilbert Das, Diesel’s creative director, before the show. Of course, while the lineup was full of denim galore, Das’ classic was hardly basic. He worked a steamy look conjured from the brand’s fl ashy, young Euro- disco core and an extreme Eighties-era silhouette. Jeans and denim skirts were cut impossibly lean with extra-high corset waistbands that rode up just under the ribs. Voluminous jackets, slinky hoodies and draped Ts perfectly completed the neo-nostalgic look. And if the resulting hard, ready-to-party vibe took a turn for the cheesy now and again, well, that’s classic Diesel, too.

Diesel

Malandrino Cynthia Rowley

Malandrino: It was much ado about the Eighties Cynthia Rowley: Before kicking into for Catherine Malandrino, who was inspired dizzying gear with her signature piled- ▲ by the 1985 movie “Subway.” There were smart on prints and embellishments, Cynthia ▲ Anna Sui satin motorcycle jackets, one-shoulder minis, Rowley showed some restraint. And it even tight ruched dresses with a streetwalker, worked, especially when she used her come-hither edge. And let’s not forget the crafty details sparingly to spice up some pumped-up volume on everything from poufed- grown-up dresses and blouses, like the sleeved dresses to oversized lapels. But one crochet-like wicker placard of a cool white wished for a little less indulgence in the theme, tunic and a subtle smudged fi ngerprint and by the end, when the strobe-light spectacle dotting a shirtdress. took over to announce a rather anticlimactic silver mesh number, you were grateful the Eighties were over.

Vena Cava more from the shows Alice Ritter: Retail heavyweights — Barneys, Kirna Zabête, Neiman Marcus, Colette — and important editors made it to Alice Ritter’s very covetable collection, which drew on her perennial inspiration of the Gallic, girlish chic of the Sixties with swingy tiered pinafores, trapeze coats and refreshing slimmer silhouettes.

Vena Cava: Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai best captured their Japonisme inspiration — the art and design movement that swept through Europe in the late-1800s — with airy capelet blouses and gowns trimmed in pretty woodblock prints.

Temperley London: Tempering her usual urge to decorate, Alice Temperley showed a strong collection of safari-inspired numbers. She seamed, pintucked and ruched many of her looks — the strongest of which were short dresses.

Doucette Duvall: Inspired by vintage, Stephanie Doucette and Annebet Duvall offered a small collection of easy, unpretentious dresses and trenches that one only dreams about fi nding at a fl ea market.

Esteban Cortazar: Every girl needs a sexy dress, and there were plenty of them at Esteban Cortazar in solid black or bright graphic fl orals, though his structured suits were at best too tight.

Abaeté: Laura Poretzky tapped into a Seventies jet-set lifestyle for spring, but naming looks after key fi gures of the era — Bowie, Anita, Hutton and Birkin — wasn’t enough for this PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, GIOVANNI CENTENO, TALAYA PHOTOS BY MITRA THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT Alice Ritter series of humdrum Indian Summer dresses. 8 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006

Carmen Marc Valvo NEW YORK

Yeohlee

Carmen Marc Valvo

Happy Go Yeohlee From ethereal whites to bold brights, designers delivered looks that were glamorous, fun and, above all, smart. Lovely Matthew Williamson WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 9 WWD.COM more from the shows Carmen Marc Valvo: Gone were the prints and lots of Trovata: Nautical clothing — and props — set the stage at Trovata, the glitz, but the glamour remained. Carmen Marc Valvo where Jeff Halmos, John Whitledge and Sam Shipley showed a great still went for statement dressing this season, delivering a lineup of mostly red, white and navy looks. cleaned-up, more refi ned version. His sophisticated gals will surely go for the dramatic, simply shaped gowns or the Y-3: Yohji Yamamoto showed some terrifi c tailored pieces at Y-3, but sportier twinset over a pleated ballskirt. there was something decidedly Yohji to it as well, with more than one riff on his signature line. Yeohlee: Yeohlee Teng’s cerebral approach to spring spotlighted the entirely white lineup of architecturally Y & Kei: Hanii Y and Gene Kei’s spring wardrobe had an ethereal air, influenced looks, many inspired by the complex, modern with its mostly white palette and light pleated and bowed touches. architecture of Rudolf Schindler. The collection included short dresses and skirts, high-waisted pants and Bermudas Michon Schur: Stephanie Schur went for “relaxed glamour” in a soft, with defined contours and boldly contrasting seaming. pretty collection fi lled with delicately detailed dresses and a great baggy pant-and-lace blouse look — all sure to satisfy front-row fans such as Berardi: “It’s nice to do something a bit younger,” said Kirsten Dunst and Mischa Barton. Antonio Berardi at the presentation of his latest side project: a diffusion line called Berardi, produced with Angel Sanchez: Extending his bridal sensibility, Angel Sanchez showed Japanese company Bus Stop. Despite its sporty, nautical fl irty cocktail dresses and gowns with a natural, organic vibe and lots of look and the casual feel of the fare — smart trenchcoats, jute embroidery. draped cotton jersey dresses, T-shirts and jeans — it still refl ected Berardi’s intricately detailed sensibility and sharp Redux Charles Chang-Lima: tailoring skills. Those extra designer touches along with Already known for pretty, wearable the line’s high-contemporary price tag could be a winning day clothes, Charles Chang-Lima Y & Kei combination at retail. has moved into evening with Redux, a diversifi ed collection Matthew Williamson: Matthew Williamson is a patterns-and- of designer-priced dresses that prints kind of guy, and he sent out a dizzying, kaleidoscopic are charming and decorated with range of them. His embellishments ran wild, too, with boho- ribbons and fl ower appliqués. ethnic references that included embroidery, beading and mirrors. But the collection left us longing for some fresh Milly by Michelle Smith: Michelle ideas that we haven’t already seen on a Williamson runway. Smith may have taken her Sixties Maybe he’s saving them for his Pucci go-round in Milan. beach-babe inspiration too literally, but nonetheless, there was enough cute summer merch here to delight the latter-day Gidget. Y-3

Redux Charles Chang-Lima

Berardi Trovata Michon Schur PHOTOS BY PAVEL ANTONOV, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE GEORGE AND ROBERT CHINSEE, GIOVANNI CENTENO, TALAYA ANTONOV, PAVEL PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 Fashion Scoops

While there were no such theatrics at the Diesel show Wednesday evening — which drew Heather Mischa Barton, in FRONT-ROW FLASH: Mischa Barton has been Graham, Avril Lavigne and Petra Nemcova — the after party at Gotham Hall was another story. Marchesa, poses spotted at almost every must-do fashion event At the stroke of midnight, the lights dimmed and the spotlights were trained on the balcony for the paparazzi. this week, but high on her list was, of course, where a youth gospel choir clad in white the Marchesa show, designed by her friends robes set the stage for James Brown. At Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, and styled by James Brown age 73, the “Godfather of Soul” proved her own stylist, Rachel Zoe. Clad in a black-and- he still has the power to get a crowd on white Marchesa dress from its resort collection, its feet. Brown opened his hourlong set the actress made a fl ashbulb-popping entrance with “Living in America” and, of course, to the Daryl Roth Theatre at Union Square on couldn’t rob any audience of “I Feel Tuesday afternoon. And defying the current trend Good” or “Sex Machine.” of starlets pulling multiple changes over the course of the day, the actress proved her hand- LOST IN TRANSLATION: Beyoncé Knowles embroidered sheath was the perfect thing to go would perhaps blush — or, should we say, from day to evening, as she stayed in it to hit the fl ush? — if she knew what a kick French Marchesa after party, a pizza place and then the radio announcers are getting out of her Another Magazine fete. If only there were more album’s new title, “B-Day,” which sounds frocks like that, quick-changes in the backs of like the French word for bidet. Even if the cars or in bathrooms might be a thing of the past. songstress might not appreciate the play on words, she’s hardly going to loose any sleep since she’s topping the U.S. charts. As R&B’s reigning queen, she’s certainly entitled to a throne.

EVERYBODY WANTS IN: Model-turned-actor Tyson Beckford wants to add “designer” to his multihyphenate. At the Y-3 show, he said he plans to start a women’s denim line, is in talks with manufacturers in China and has decided to use Japanese denim “because it’s the best.” “I am always hearing past girlfriends complain that they can’t get jeans over their butts,” Beckford said, not naming names. “I want to help them out with that.” Adidas athlete Laila Ali, the boxing daughter of Muhammad, said she is in talks with the athletic giant about a line. The conversation is preliminary, but Ali wants clothes that can be worn in the gym, as well as while dashing around on errands. “I love everything they have done with my father’s line,” she said. And Mena Suvari said she would like to add her own label to the runways some day. “I’ve had that desire for a really long time,” she said. “It’s a huge undertaking, so I want to do it right when I do it.”

IN HIS SHOES: It seems fashion types would need respite from their heels during breaks from the shows during fashion week, but not when Manolo Blahnik is in town. The designer made an appearance at Bergdorf Goodman’s second- fl oor shoe salon on Thursday, autographing shoes, catalogues and his own sketches — for customers who spent $1,500 or more on styles from his fall collection. Blahnik chitchatted with guests such as Sarah Michelle Gellar and scores of die- hard fans while waiters passed around LEAVIN’ ON A JET PLANE: What does a New York socialite do if she’s fudged mojitos and empanada to the tune of some of her past and is busted on the front page of The Wall Street Journal? one of Blahnik’s favorite Cuban bands, If you’re Genevieve Jones, you get out of town. According to Journal reporter Mo’Guajiro. “This is quiet for me,” said Teri Agins, who wrote the story, Jones hopped a plane and fl ew home to Baton Blahnik of the crowd who came to meet Rouge, La., rather than face New York’s chattering classes. “What’s the big him. He said he is far too busy to attend deal?” said Agins, who spent quite a bit of fashion shows this week as he is on a short time researching Jones’ past — even going trip to New York, but highlighted Thakoon to her family’s home. “So she lied about her Maggie Panichgul, designer of Thakoon, as one with age? Lots of people do that.” No word on Gyllenhaal promise. “He is the only one that I see with whether Agins planned to disclose any others any talent now.” who may have found a way to otherwise embellish their life experiences. LOVE L.A.M.B.: Tennis champ Roger Federer may get a reputation as a fashion groupie. First he accompanied PREGNANT PAUSE: Maggie Gyllenhaal braved Anna Wintour to the Oscar de la Renta and Marc Jacobs the crush at Calvin Klein on Thursday Manolo shows, and then he dropped in on a design meeting with Gwen afternoon for one of her last outings before Blahnik and Stefani for her L.A.M.B line. As it turns out, Federer and his girlfriend, her baby is due — except, that is, for the Sarah Michelle Mirka Vavrinec, are close pals with Stefani and her husband, Gavin Rossdale, who after party she was cohosting that night Gellar at accompanied the couple to the showroom. with Drew Barrymore at 7 World Trade. “I’m Bergdorf going to rest after this,” said Gyllenhaal, Goodman. PIT STOPS: There are still a few celebrities for whom fashion week is not one who was dressed in a cozy black Calvin Klein runway show after another. At Michon Schur Wednesday night, Kirsten Dunst sweater. “Right now, I just really care about said that would be her one and only trip to the tents. “My friend styled it,” she said. “I think her being comfortable.” As for why the pregnant clothes are beautiful and very elegant, but young.” Gyllenhaal made the effort, the actress Thursday morning, Kyra Sedgwick said her show appearance would be limited to J.Mendel, said: “They asked me to and Francisco the designer who provided her with a dress for this year’s SAG Awards. “The Closer” actress will is interesting because he’s trying to do play a sports agent opposite Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson in Disney’s “The Game Plan.” Johnson’s something different.” former WWF status hasn’t made Sedgwick self-conscious. “I feel pretty strong,” she said.

GODFATHER IN THE BUILDING: Diesel chief FASHION D-LISTED: Backstage at Badgley Mischka, comedian Kathy Griffi n joked, “I thought all the executive Renzo Rosso likes fashion week models were fat compared to me. I didn’t realize this was a plus-size show. They were sparkly, surprises. Two seasons ago, his runway show shiny and pretty for sparkly shiny models.” at the Hammerstein Ballroom ended with Dressed in jeans, a Badgley Mischka jacket, Stuart Weitzman shoes and Michael Wan oversized a round of pyrotechnics. Last year, Grace pearls, she said her own approach to fashion thrives on codependency. “Robert Verdi chooses what Jones scarily sprang from her front-row seat I wear. I was going to wear my Forever 21 shoes and he made me wear these. I don’t know if you

to take the fi nal turns down the catwalk. STEVE EICHNER AND GYLLENHAAL PHOTOS BY BARTON have ever been to Forever 21 but they have beautiful shoes,” she said. “And did you see my pearls? WWD.COM They cost a fortune — in the thousands.” Fashion often fi nds its way into her comedy routines. “I would not say I’m deferential or reverential. I just make fun of it.” The star of “My Life on the D-List” was also keeping a close eye on a handler, who was leaning on a rack of dresses. “Look at that girl. She’s going to steal that dress,” Griffi n kidded and then jokingly considered doing the same. “What would you do with it?” Verdi asked, referring to the copper-colored chiffon gown. “I’d roll it up in a ball and stick it in my bra,” Griffi n said.

BUSY BLOCH: It’s nothing new when celebrity stylist Phillip Bloch is seen at the shows. This season, however, Bloch is going with a new career objective in mind: He is launching his own high-end shoe collection for fall 2007. He declined to name the company with which he has a deal, but said it was “comparable to a Manolo or Choo,” and the line would comprise “everything from ballet slippers to boots and evening shoes.” At the other end of the price spectrum, Bloch divulged he’s also working on a full lifestyle brand and just inked a deal with Kaiser America to produce a fashion collection for the masses, similar to what Isaac Mizrahi and Mossimo have done at Target. While the venture is still in the early stages, Bloch said he hopes to have a complete line ready for holiday 2007. “Hollywood glamour for the masses — from the ballroom to the boardroom,” he said. “Who doesn’t want to feel good, look better and not spend a lot of money? That’s my objective.”

SHOW SWAP: Martha Stewart took a break from taping her own show Thursday to attend Cynthia Rowley’s. “I was free for a couple of minutes,” the home and garden guru said. But is Martha’s empire expanding even further? Stewart taped a segment with Rowley about fashion that will air Wednesday on her ABC show, and she will present a piece on July’s couture collections on “Martha” this fall.

EL PRESIDENTE: At a media breakfast Thursday at the Gramercy Park Hotel, incoming CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg talked up the need to do a better job of mentoring young designers and exporting American design. When the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette’s Lamont Jones raised the point that designers need to show some consideration for out-of-state media, von Furstenberg agreed, adding her salad days taught her the importance of regional markets. “I personally know. I went to Pittsburgh and Denver and Des Moines. That’s how I learned the map of the U.S. I could list the states alphabetically in fi ve minutes.”

ALL IN THE FAMILY: Two days after her 20th birthday, Emmy Rossum was still celebrating Thursday at Vera Wang’s fashion show. “This is the fi rst fashion week I’ve ever been to and I just turned 20. I’m having a birthday week,” the wide-eyed actress said, clutching a Vera Wang shopping bag. “Vera is my cousin. This is my birthday present from her.” Eager to open the loot, Rossum was then ushered to her seat.

HAVE A SEAT: None other than Peter Arnold was helping guests at Cynthia Rowley’s show fi nd their seats Thursday. A spokeswoman for the designer would only say Arnold is a friend who was helping out. She declined to say whether he is consulting for the company. Arnold could not be reached for comment. “Oprah” fans might have recognized another face in the crowd — James Frey, who admitted to fabricating portions of his bestseller, “A Million Little Pieces.” A friend of the designer and her husband, Bill Powers, Frey watched 37 little pieces walk down the runway.

ON A WHIM: Bruno Grizzo may have just shown his dress collection in the Gen Art show last Friday, but the Brazilian designer has another iron in the fi re: New York-based cashmere fi rm Whim has hired him as design director. He will introduce his fi rst line for Whim at next week’s Fashion Coterie at the Show Piers. Grizzo moved to New York in 1998 after working in Paris for Lanvin.

SCARLETT SQUARED: Actress Scarlett Johansson’s jewelry collaboration with Imitation of Christ made its debut during fashion week, and Reebok is hoping her Scarlett [Hearts] Rbk line will be unveiled with samples at Coterie next week, according to Reebok chief executive Paul Harrington, who said he just saw fi rst samples of the sportswear line this week. Harrington hadn’t heard about Johansson’s other venture, but said he was excited about the early debut of Reebok’s venture with the actress. Reebok previously had thought samples might not be ready for another month or two.

PASTA, ANYONE?: Food and fashion rarely mix, so needless to say it was a surprise seeing a top Italian cook in the front row of Matthew Williamson’s show Wednesday. Giada De Laurentiis, host of the Food Network’s “Everday Italian” and granddaughter of fi lm producer Dino, is in town from Los Angeles fi lming a travel show and chose to attend Williamson’s show “because I actually wear his clothes,” she said. The last time she was at such an affair was as a child when she accompanied her grandmother, Italian screen siren Silvana Mangano, to Oscar de la Renta’s and Yves Saint Laurent’s presentations. Now, what wasn’t a surprise was Victoria Beckham being trotted out just before the show began and led to her seat next to Glenda Bailey. The two greeted one another as if they hadn’t seen each other in ages.

RUNNING WITH RUDY: Many are inquiring, but Judith Giuliani isn’t saying whether her husband, Rudy, plans on making a presidential bid. After the Douglas Hannant show Wednesday, she said, “My parents have been married for more than 50 years and my mother has always said, ‘Whatever will make him happy.’ If he decides he wants to run, I’ll be there to support him.” The Giulianis already have visited 35 countries together and plan to hit Latvia, Poland, Russia, Iceland, Argentina, Italy, Germany, China and India (twice) before this year folds. Most of their journeys are due to the former New York mayor’s speaking engagements and business, and “just to further your experiences.” she said. Meeting Lee Kuan Yew in Singapore would be among them. FASHION WEEK ONLINE

Check out WWD.com for the latest news from New York Fashion Aspen Bal Harbour Palm Beach – info: 1-877 see-malo New York www.malo.it Week including reviews, Fashion Scoops and photo galleries. 12 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 WWD.COM

▼ Hilary Swank in Fatal Attraction a Marc Jacobs NEW YORK — Fashion types are dress and a notoriously self-focused bunch, shoes and so even when The Cinema Society a Derek and Guerlain hosted a special Lam bag. screening of Brian De Palma’s “The Black Dahlia” Wednesday night, conversation inevitably strayed to clothes. Rosie Perez, Regis and Joy Philbin, Sandra Bernhard, Mini Anden, Gina Gershon and Helena Christensen Steve were among the guests at the Tribeca Sadove Grand Hotel, along with Carolina Herrera. and Kate Kevin Costner was a fashion week Bosworth newbie. “It’s a real scene,” said the actor, who attended the Max Azria show Monday evening and will take in Ralph Lauren this morning, “with the music and everything. I enjoy it and my daughter and wife do, too.” Hilary Swank (who plays a femme fatale in the fi lm, alongside Josh Hartnett, Aaron Eckhart and Scarlett Johansson) was the most stylistically Helena challenged, arriving almost half an hour Christensen late due to a shoe problem. in Madame “The buckle on my shoe had a snafu à Paris. on the way over. I had to take a lint brush and somehow turn it into masking tape, then use a black Sharpie to color it in,” said Swank at the after party at the Soho Grand Penthouse, sounding more like MacGyver. “A Mini girl’s gotta make it happen!” Anden Uptown at Saks Fifth Avenue, Steve Sadove and Graydon Carter hosted about 1,500 people, including Mischa Barton, Naomi Watts, Kate Bosworth, Manolo Blahnik and Roberto Cavalli, gathered for the launch of “Want It!,” the store’s fall campaign spotlighting trends. The party — which featured live music, dancers on stilts and giant mobiles and artwork by Michael Roberts, depicting the styles of Naomi the season — benefi ted Free Arts NYC. Lauren Hutton Watts said that since starting a home shopping business and recovering from her motorcycle accident years ago, she’s been trapped in L.A. and hasn’t gone out much. “Now, it’s bright lights, big city, you know,” she laughed. Celebrities clearly can’t be everywhere, so with the stars tied up all over town, the Satine party at Marquee didn’t get an avalanche of big names. But the ones who Gina did show up were a rare, near extinct subspecies: those Gershon in without stylists attached at their hips. a vintage “What big girls are we,” joked Michelle Williams, who top and Natalia was making her only party appearance during fashion week, Michelle Williams in Alexander Vodianova at sitting at a banquette with host Kim Gordon of Sonic Youth. 3.1 Phillip Lim with Kim McQueen Saks. “I like to be creative in my own right,” Williams Gordon in Chanel. skirt. continued. “I like to feel that I can do things by myself.” Mum’s the Word Kristin Scott Thomas in “Keeping Mum.” espite the posh accent and chilly British air she has lent to fi lms like “The DEnglish Patient” and “Gosford Park,” actress Kristin Scott Thomas has called Paris her home since she moved there at 19. So one might be tempted to credit homesickness with luring her to the thoroughly English dark comedy “Keeping Mum,” opening in New York today. “I loved the kind of perfect English thing going wrong,” explains Scott Thomas of the story, fi lmed in Cornwall, the actress’ birthplace (“my roots came out furiously”). “That amuses me….The sort of fl ip side of the picture postcard, that’s what I enjoyed.” The actress stars as Gloria, the wife of a vicar (Rowan Atkinson) and mother of two teenage children, whose family life is disintegrating. Her son is the victim of school bullies, her daughter is a raging nymphomaniac and her husband has lost both his sense of humor and his libido. Gloria turns to her golf instructor (played to perfection by Patrick Swayze) for sexual fulfi llment until, suddenly, a kindly housekeeper (Maggie Smith) enters their life, turning their family around like a twisted Mary Poppins, but bringing with her some dark secrets of her own. With its tongue-in-cheek tone and, at times, morbidly slapstick scenarios, “Keeping Mum” is a contrast to the period and melancholy roles to which Scott Thomas stereotypically has been attached. “If I were to walk into a room full of strangers, some of them might think, ‘Oh she’s very icy or she’s very frosty,’ because that’s the sort of received opinion about myself,” she says. “That creates quite a lot of hard work, having to charm people the whole time to convince them otherwise.” far as fi lmmaking is concerned.” So she has given up on such pointless endeavors. And it was screenwriter Richard That is clearly an overstatement, since she has just fi nished Paul Schrader’s “The Russo’s realistic take on Gloria’s feelings on aging and motherhood that attracted Walker” opposite Woody Harrelson and Lauren Bacall and will soon start shooting Scott Thomas to the part rather than any need to diversify her professional image. “The Other Boleyn Girl,” playing Natalie Portman and Scarlett Johansson’s mother. “I loved the fact that she could be an angry mother. I loved the idea of a poor But the combination of her Euro-centered family and a frustration with fi lm role woman who’s at her wit’s end, doesn’t know what to do with her teenagers and is offers has pushed her preferences to theater. Last year, she received raves for her just angry the whole time. I see a lot of women like that,” she laughs. “They’re sort performance in Pirandello’s “As You Desire Me” in London and, come January, she of cross: What happened to my youth?” will return there for “The Seagull.” And the response she receives to her stage work Though the actress and mother of three does not consider herself a member only increases her sense of fulfi llment. of such company (“I happen to be rather keen on my children”), she can certainly “If I’m going to a screening and there are fans, they seem to be absolutely terrifi ed identify with the professional pressures of being a non-twentysomething woman, of you as a fi lm actress. They’ll come up and they’ll shake, some a bit teary,” says having turned 46 in May. Scott Thomas. “When you come out of a theater and there are people waiting for you, “It’s unbelievable how quickly the door is closed,” she remarks. “And that is it’s a completely different experience because people have seen you as a human very particular to America. Because in the rest of Europe, anyway, we recognize being in normal size. And they’ve seen you sweating and they’ve seen you trip over age as being experience and being something of use. Whereas, I get a feeling, as your dress and breathing in real life. They’re completely relaxed. It’s great.” far as the roles that come my way, that I’ve become totally useless in America, as — Vanessa Lawrence SAKS PHOTOS BY JOHN CALABRESE; “BLACK DAHLIA” BY STEVE EICHNER; WILLIAMS/GORDON BY JIMI CELESTE STEVE EICHNER; WILLIAMS/GORDON BY BY JOHN CALABRESE; “BLACKSAKS PHOTOS BY DAHLIA”

18 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 WWD.COM Hermès Profi t Up Inside the new Miu Miu, 7.8 Percent in Half By Robert Murphy PARIS — Hermès International said on Thursday that solid sales at its retail network helped lift first-half profits 7.8 percent. The luxury giant said it would sell its stake in the high- end Leica camera business for about 15 million euros, or $19.1 million. For the fi rst half, profi ts climbed to 184.6 million euros, or $228.4 million at average exchange. While the results met most analysts’ expectations, they lagged behind those of Hermès’ main luxury competitors. Last week, PPR said operating income at its Gucci Group division surged 69.6 percent in the fi rst half, and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton reported a 46 percent leap in profi ts in the fi rst six months, making a fi rm case for luxury’s solid footing. Mirelle Maury, managing director of fi nance and adminis- tration at Hermès, said the company was on track to meet its full-year target of constant currency sales growth of around 7 percent. She said sales in August and early this month were robust, led by acceleration in North America and continued strength in Europe. “There was a veritable acceleration in the second quarter Miu Miu’s Milan Store Gets Gilded Paris Touch of 12 percent in the Americas,” said Maury. “That trend con- tinues in the third quarter.” By Alessandra Ilari MILAN — Miu Miu’s new store con- cept takes its infl uence from the gilt of Paris. The store look, which was un- veiled here Wednesday, is drawn from Lapérouse, the famous gilded Paris restaurant spread over 14 rooms, where Miu Miu held its fall show. The brand has relocated its store here from Corso Venezia to a new, L-shape venue that is made up of the former Prada Sport and Helmut Lang stores. The 2,700-square-foot shop has two separate entryways, one on Via Sant’Andrea for bags and one on Via della Spiga for shoes. The central part Hermès’ remodeled and is dedicated to women’s apparel. expanded George V store. Sales projections for the fi rst year were unavailable. Architect Roberto Baciocchi translated Miuccia Prada’s vision of timeless rooms, each containing Maury said fi rst-half sales growth of 6 percent in Japan a different product category, by melding yesterday with tomorrow. should help sustain momentum through the end of the year “The new concept and idea of the rooms is part of Miu Miu’s growth process, which started with the as Hermès prepares to unveil an extension to its Hermès relocation of the showroom [it’s now in a Liberty villa] and with the decision to show in Paris,” said a House fl agship in Tokyo’s Ginza district next month. company spokeswoman. “Miu Miu has always been a brand with a strong identity, and even this store Maury added that sales in Europe, which increased 12 interprets its free and independent spirit.” percent in the fi rst half, looked set to grow 10 percent in the Sumptuous Italian silk damasks temper the austerity of perforated or undulated steel panels, and second half. mirror-top coffee tables preside over antique parquet fl oors and ivory rugs. The overall feeling is rich Maury said demand for leather goods — including the pe- yet light and fresh. rennial best-selling Birkin bag and the Paris-Bombay purse Miu Miu’s former venue will house the Prada Sport line. — continued to exceed the fi rm’s supply capacity. She said 300 artisans had been hired in the fi rst half to boost production and existing factories would be expanded in the second half. First-half gross margin was stable at around 65 percent, she continued, and operating margin reached 26.4 percent, Richemont’s Rupert Upbeat at Annual Meeting also on par with last year. Maury said spending on communications and advertising By Samantha Conti by jewelry and watches. Specialist watchmakers’ in the fi rst six months through June grew 18 percent. She said sales rose 16 percent, with Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget communications spending would advance about 20 percent for LONDON — The fi rst half of the fi nancial year and Panerai driving sales. the full year. isn’t even over for Compagnie Financière Sales at Montblanc and Montegrappa, the writ- The fi rm is preparing to open 20 new or expanded stores Richemont SA, but executive chairman Johann ing instrument manufacturers, rose 23 percent. in the second half, including a new Hermès House fl agship in Rupert is already upbeat about fi scal 2007. The lion’s share of sales came from Montblanc, Seoul, and stores in Venice, Gstaad and Charlotte, N.C. On Thursday, at the company’s annual share- which has steadily broadened its offering to in- On Thursday, the fi rm reopened its store on Avenue holders’ meeting in Geneva, Rupert reported that clude watches, leather goods and silver jewelry George V here, just off the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, after sales were up 16 percent for the fi ve-month period lines. several months of expansion work. ended Aug. 31. Rupert also reported Lan cel and Alfred Dunhill, Christian Blanckaert, executive vice president of Hermès “The results for the fi rst six-month period the two leather accessories houses that have been International in charge of international affairs, called the store will be good, and I am confi dent for the year as underperforming for years, have begun to turn the an important part of Hermès’ strategy to deepen its roots here. a whole,” said Rupert, adding the solid perfor- corner. The fi rm’s fl agship on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré mance was achieved despite tough comparisons Lancel will break even this year, Rupert will be expanded by a third by 2008, he said. with last year. said, although losses have increased at Dunhill. “We are a family-run, Paris-based fi rm,” he said. “That His only warning was that the increased However, sales at both houses increased by 10 heritage is important to emphasize.” strength of the euro against the dollar and the yen percent in the fi ve-month period. Blanckaert said the expanded George V store, across the would affect the group’s year-end profi tability to Rupert said Dunhill was trading above budget street from the Four Seasons hotel and down the street from some degree. this year, and the business in Europe and Japan Louis Vuitton’s fl agship, should generate as much as 50 mil- “The effect is likely to be more marked in the was growing. “I am confi dent that this maison is lion euros in fi rst-year sales. second half, depending on the evolution of ex- now moving in the right direction,” he said. He said it should generate about 20 percent of the fi rm’s change rates,” he said. Sales at Chloé, the Paris fashion house, continue retail turnover here. Some 60 percent of Richemont’s sales are out- to roar ahead, increasing by nearly 90 percent in Designed by Rena Dumas with a light and clean modern- side Europe, although most of the manufactur- the April to August period. Rupert said, however, ist touch, the store gained a fl oor of shopping space, and now ing takes place in Switzerland and elsewhere in that growth was slowing due to tough comparisons measures 3,400 square feet. Europe. and that the pace for the full year would likely be It sells all Hermès categories, from housewares and women’s On Nov. 17, Richemont plans to announce com- lower than in the fi rst half. ready-to-wear to silk scarves and Motsch custom-order hats. plete profi t and sales fi gures for the six months By region, Asia-Pacifi c had the biggest sales “We believe in Paris, and Europe in general,” said Blanck- ending Sept. 30. growth, 20 percent, followed by Europe and the aert. “This store is part of our broader strategy to grow in Jewelry houses, and especially Cartier and Van Americas, each with 17 percent. Growth in Japan Europe.” Cleef and Arpels, had sales rise 13 percent, driven was 8 percent. HERMÈS PHOTO BY THIERRY CHOMEL HERMÈS PHOTO BY

20 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 WWD.COM Emerging Firms Make Waves in Surf Swimwear By Rachel Brown Two looks from n surf swimwear, function has typically prevailed Love Surf Love. Iover form, but small and midtier brands fighting for a toehold in the industry are increasingly pushing the style quotient. These emerging surf brands are trying to outfl ank larger competitors by bringing trends faster to a growing base of fashion-conscious consumers. They have loaded their arsenals with fresh looks, new lines and, on occa- sion, higher price points to distinguish themselves on swimwear shelves where Billabong, O’Neill and Roxy have ruled. “When the surf business was traditionally men, it was a pair of fl ip-fl ops, a T-shirt and a board,” said Thomas McNeel, owner of Love Surf Love in Costa Mesa, Calif., and a veteran of the swimwear scene who helped start the competing Orange County brand L Space in 1998. “Girls are demanding more fashion. A girl could walk into a surf shop carrying a Gucci purse.” For the company’s third season, McNeel introduced what he dubbed a “bridge line” merging surf, contempo- rary apparel and Brazilian bikini infl uences. The line fea- tures low-rise banded bottoms, European fabrics, adjust- able side keyholes and loftier prices. The suits retail for about $90, above the mid-$80 range where Love Surf Love hovered in previous seasons. “We are addressing the surf industry, but we are ad- dressing it more as a fashionable industry,” McNeel said. He estimated that Love Surf Love suits would have 400 accounts this year, and the company might cross into the black for the fi rst time since launching in 2004. At Torrance, Calif.-based Sunsets Inc., owner Greg Stager has retooled the nine-year-old surf brand Blink. The swimwear has a new name, b. Swim, and a new designer, Nikol Roberts, who was hired for her sports- wear knowledge and had no experience in swimsuits. Wholesale prices for b. Swim separates range from $21 to $29. Blink started at $18 wholesale. “We wanted to come out with a line that is more life- style,” he said. “We felt that there needed to be more fashion, needed to be more fun.” Stager is targeting distribution beyond surf shops into swimwear brands Pink Sands and California Waves. “If you are small and you seek out a customer based specialty stores where there is resistance to narrow surf “Surf stores are really name-driven,” Zolt said. “They on fashion and label consciousness, I believe you will brands. He predicted half of b. Swim’s sales would be sell their core brands — Roxy, Billabong — that is it.” be more solid,” said Love Surf Love’s McNeel. “If you to surf stores and the other half to swim specialty. Blink For the few emerging brands, such as Local Motion, deal with price, you will lose to some of the larger com- had focused on surf shops, which generated 80 percent which have won fl oor space at core surf retailers, pro- petitors. You have to deal with a consumer that wants of sales. moting edgy styles and reaching into department and individuality.” Marcia Oda, brand manager for Split at Cypress, Calif.- swim specialty stores carries risks. Alienating tried-and- McNeel’s former company, Santa Ana, Calif.-based L based Manhattan Beachwear LLC, which picked up the true surfer girls who breathe authenticity into a brand Space, demonstrates how a fl edgling junior surf brand Split license this year with the shutdown of swimwear is chief among them. can grow by deftly making the transition into a contem- maker Beach Patrol Inc., said there is room for spot-on “It is a whole subculture in surf; they don’t like wan- porary fashion resource. Started in 1997, L Space rolled surf swimwear products beyond niche surf retailers. nabes,” said Howard Greller, president of Blue Water out initially into surf retailers, but sensed it was critical Department stores and specialty stores have been boost- Design Group, a division of Gardena, Calif.-based to adjust its business model as chains such as Gap Inc. ing surf brands’ presence. Apparel Ventures Inc. Blue Water Design is in its second and Target Corp. beefed up on affordable swim items. “Maybe a few years ago, people carried Roxy, but year of producing Hawaiian-bred brand Local Motion’s L Space opted to kick up the fashion a notch and they couldn’t sell surf brands,” she said. “[Retailers] swimsuits. “It is hard to launch anything new unless you sought higher-priced fabrics, including a microfi ber out have had enough growth and success to see they need to have credibility.” of Italy that is used in the 2007 collection. Suits whole- have more to offer.” Nonetheless, there are examples of brands that have sale for $23 to $29, about $5 to $10 more than they were Constantly searching for unique goods, department and effectively leveraged success at surf retailers to boost in seasons past. specialty stores are willing to try out brands that could en- department and specialty store business. Pointing to Johanna Pate, a co-designer at L Space, said the tice customers seeking to differentiate themselves. Quiksilver, Greller said it would not have been possible company changed just at the right time. She said de- “If it is the right look and print, it can grow in our to reach substantial sales volumes without department partment and specialty stores, as well as surf boutiques store,” said Marni Chomenko, a buyer for Diane’s Inc., stores. “They have been creative enough to sell both infusing their merchandise with trendier looks, were a 15-store specialty swim chain based in Torrance. “We sides of the table and walk that fi ne line,” he said. calling for contemporary styles. L Space recently start- test everything.” Smaller labels have found that competing on price ed selling to Nordstrom and Selfridges, and Pate esti- At surf stores, the opposite often is the case. Ellyce alone is not a sustainable formula. Price-sensitive shop- mated orders have gone up 30 percent compared with Zolt, a partner in the California Market Center show- pers are likely to skip specialty and better department last year. room Ronnie & Ellyce Sales, said it is diffi cult for small stores anyway. So, raising swimsuit prices a few dollars Pate indicated fashion-forward small and midtier and midtier surf brands to break into surf stores, where for quality fabrics and fashionable designs, although a brands should not get complacent. Citing a “really sexy well-known names outmuscle newcomers. She repre- risk, is seen as necessary step to attracting snappy dress- monokini” by Billabong, she said, “Everybody is taking sents Los Angeles-based Jennifer Kay Inc.’s junior surf ers accustomed to paying $150-plus for premium jeans. it up a bit.” Department, Specialty Stores Weigh on August Retail Sales

By Evan Clark my as housing prices slide. to expand by about 2.8 percent, on average, during the “Housing as a driver for pulling the economy for- second half.” WASHINGTON — The department and specialty store ward at breakneck speed, that’s behind us now, and In a turnaround, the energy sector, which has sectors posted sales declines in August, even as over- there’s really no locomotive anymore, so you expect to caused headaches for retailers and consumers, has all retail spending rose, according to the Commerce see some sluggishness in all kinds of activities, includ- some good news heading into fall. A gallon of regular Department’s monthly report released Thursday. ing retail sales,” Leamer said. gasoline sold for an average of $2.58 Thursday, down Sales at apparel and accessories stores fell a sea- The slowdown should be tempered by the decent from $3 a month ago and $2.94 a year ago, according sonally adjusted 0.3 percent in August to $17.9 bil- employment picture, he said, noting the economy added to the American Automobile Association. There is no lion, but were up 6.6 percent from a year earlier. 128,000 jobs last month, below the 200,000 that a normal, telling how long that will last, though, or how much of Department store sales slid 0.2 percent to $17.5 billion healthy economy would create, but an “OK” showing. a boost it will give to shoppers. and were off 1.4 percent from August 2005. Other economists also were reassured by the job “In terms of the overall consumer, sure there’s a Total retail and food service sales rose 0.2 percent in market. little bit of good news out of the energy sector, fi nally,” July after a much stronger gain of 1.4 percent in June. “The underlying fundamentals supporting consump- said Ken Goldstein and economist at The Conference Edward Leamer, director of the UCLA Anderson tion spending are still positive overall — respectable Board. “The underlying trend is we have consumers Forecast, described the August sales fi gures as “a little employment growth coupled with strong gains in com- who have turned cautious and I don’t think we’ve seen weak,” but not enough to indicate a trend, though he is pensation,” Brian Bethune, U.S. economist at Global enough of a decrease in gas prices to make consumers looking for a second-half slowdown across the econo- Insight, wrote in a report. “Consumption is projected less cautious.” An Advertising Section in WWD Friday, September 15, 2006 BRAVADO! DESIGNS BRAVADO! PURE T LIZ LANGE BELLY BASICS BELLY

JAPANESE WEEKEND JAPANESE Hot Mama Maternity Wear Heating Up at Retail

OLIAN MATERNITY ! EVEDEN INC. MATERNAL AMERICA 1 MATERNITY ADVERTISEMENT Hot Mama!

Misconceptions about maternity wear run the gamut — from visions of oversized muumuu-like ensembles to women wearing their husband’s oversized T-shirts. But the maternity market has been revolutionized and redefi ned over the last 10 years, according to Sarah Pollack, founder and owner of maternity retailer Mom’s the Word. “The industry changed when women fi nally insisted enough is enough! We have standards in what we’ll wear,” she said. “Now, people love wearing these clothes because they feel so good in them.” Maternity wear has even caught up to ready-to-wear, according to Armanda Texidor, president of A New View Maternity. “Consumers used to say, ‘I’ll make due and wear my “Today the consumer is very educated and it’s a great time to be pregnant.”

— Liz Lange, founder of Liz Lange Maternity husband’s shirt,’ but today that is so passé. You can fi nd anything in maternity wear. If it’s on the runway, you can fi nd it in somebody’s showroom.” The infl ux of rtw designers joining the maternity sector successfully has allowed women to extend their personal style into their pregnancy. Designers are translating current trends early and bringing them into the maternity industry faster than in the past, according to Song Pardue, ceo of Pickles & Ice Cream Maternity Apparel. “We used to have to wait a season for the hot trend to hit maternity, but this is no longer true. It keeps maternity fresh and current.” And women are certainly looking for the latest styles. Sales of maternity clothing increased 5.9% in 2005 alone, according to a March 2006 report by Mintel International Group Limited, implying that the demand for fashion-forward maternity wear continues to rise. “Today, the consumer is very educated and it’s a great time to be pregnant,” said Liz Lange, founder of Liz Lange Maternity. “The customer is looking for any style in any magazine available to her when she’s pregnant.” And these women have serious spending power. Not only is the population of expectant mothers anticipated to increase by 5 percent in the next four years, but moms control 80 percent of the household spending, or roughly $1.35 trillion in annual spending, according to the report. “Looking great during your pregnancy has become part of the nine-month adventure and today, moms-to-be have so much more fun shopping for their growing belly,” said Nataline Ngo, de signer for Maternal America, Inc. “It’s fashionable to be pregnant.” JAPANESE WEEKEND BumpWatch Prior to the new millennium, affected everything from nursing bras to baby clothes,” he said. “We maternity apparel was considered want to know about celebrities, what they do, how they do it and what a specialty item, found in specialty they wear, so it defi nitely impacts us. It gives anything in nursing and retailers, according to the Mintel maternity a little bit of recognition. They’re raising the level of information report. But the last few years have seen out there for consumers and that’s key for any product.” a new take on the state of pregnancy and Recently, celebrities have been infl uencing fashion through celebrity it’s becoming more and more apparent clothing lines, and celebrity stylists are even becoming celebrities in that a “bump” is all the rage. Many retailers their own right, according to Lange. “There is no doubt that celebrities credit Hollywood for the change. in today’s world are extremely powerful in what they wear. You can’t “Thank God for Hollywood,” said Ngo. read a weekly magazine without seeing a ‘bump watch’ or a story about “Because of the media, being pregnant is beautiful who’s pregnant, what she’s wearing, when she’s due, where she’s and sexy. This has defi nitely opened the door for us.” shopping…celebrities trickle down to the whole market.” Jim West, director of marketing and product development But celebrities have been changing fashion for decades, according PURE T for Eveden Inc., agreed, pointing out that with so many celebrities to Texidor, and because maternity follows rtw, it’s no surprise it’s become having babies, it’s spurred a lot of interest in maternity wear. “It’s Continued to Maternity, page 8

2 MATERNITY

ADVERTISEMENT

“In nursing bras, (consumers) are looking for color, comfort, support and styling.”

— Jim West, director of marketing and product development, Eveden Inc.

BRAVADO! DESIGNS Support System

An extremely important aspect of a women’s woman is G cup, which is basically a quadruple D, by West added that while maternity and nursing bras pregnancy is the nursing bra. And according to West, the time she’s a nursing mother, she’s going to go up a are very different in people’s minds, women are looking 80 percent of women in the world are wearing the couple of cup sizes, so we offer a selection of sizes to for similar qualities in both. “In nursing bras, they are wrong size bra. “They are typically wearing too big of a accommodate her. Most nursing bras in the market do looking for color — that’s been a big trend. They are back size and too small of a cup size,” he said. not go up to this size range, many stop at triple D. So also looking for comfort, support and styling.” In order to alleviate this problem, Eveden Inc., which where do you go if you’re a triple D to start with?” “Comfort is very important,” agreed Kathryn From, sells under the brand names of Fantasie, Goddess, Under the Freya label, the size range runs from 34 ceo and co-owner of Bravado! Designs. She added that Freya, and Rigby & Peller, offer an enormous array of to 40 D, double D, E, F and G. The back ranges from when looking for a nursing bra, women need features sizes. “One of the big differences you’ll fi nd between 32-inch to 38-inch in double G and H cups. that fi t the needs of her body. “When you’re nursing, our nursing bras and what’s our there is the size range,” “We construct our products so they are extremely your breasts are changing size all day. Having a bra he said. supportive and comfortable, using cotton polyblends that can adapt to that while keeping you feeling good The products under the Goddess label range from a and microfi bers,” West said. throughout the day is very important for both comfort 34-inch to 48-inch back, from a C cup to a K cup. “If a Eveden also offers swimwear and panties. Continued to Maternity, page 10

4 MATERNITY Goddess Style 2050 “Comfort Zone” Nursing Bra Features Microfiber fabric and moisture management properties.

Also available from Goddess: Style 1001 & 511 Nursing Bras

www.goddessbra.com

Oh, Baby.

Freya Style 2033 & 2083 Pedal “Rosalie” Nursing Bras

EVEDEN INC. For additional brands visit: www.eveden.com

Visit our New York Showroom: 180 Madison Avenue #1407, New York, NY 10016 Call for an appointment: 1.800.733.8964 ADVERTISEMENT What Women Want BELLY BASICS “We put every effort into making it that will stretch without loosing its shape for maximum easy for the expecting mom to put herself comfort. The kits are incredibly functional for pregnant together,” Ngo added. “Our goal is to women.” Belly Basics also offers a variety of products design a fashion-conscious collection from tops and bottoms to accessories. Retail price that will fl atter her new curves and allow points are from $40 to $150. her to look her best. She wants to wear For Jenn Fine, co-founder and designer of pure t, what she wore pre-pregnancy and we maternity wear is about “not compromising, and not offer her that.” changing who you are because of your blossoming In spring 2007, Maternal America body.” will launch black label MA, a luxury Currently, pure t is focused on T-shirts, but also offers label of maternity dresses. “We put a hoodies and dresses and is available in approximately lot of attention into our fi t and fabric. 50 stores across the world and on nordstrom.com. Ian Looking her best and feeling her best is Carlevarini, co-founder and designer, added that the our business.” inspiration behind the line comes from infl uences in When looking to buy maternity wear, customers And looking one’s best also includes the offi ce, and or around the East Village where they live and operate want fl attering, comfortable styles that are similar to many sources in the maternity market have pointed out their business. Fine added that they are also infl uenced their everyday sense of fashion, according to Nicole the increased availability of stylish items for the working by politics and are always thinking about the future of Ryan, Nordstrom maternity buyer. woman. their children. In every market, there are different types of Liz Lange noted that her business is the working “It’s amazing to see the changes women go through consumers with different tastes and needs — maternity woman. “Career is a very important segment of our as far as their outlook on health, the environment and is no exception. business, those are my best customers,” she said. politics,” Carlevarini said. “Things take on a much According to Texidor, “The consumer is looking “They can not afford to go to work in a big T-shirt and different importance. There’s a real selfl essness that for exactly what she wore when she wasn’t pregnant. a pair of leggings, so career suiting is key and we’re comes into it.” My lines specialize in the woman. We really get into seeing that more and more in the marketplace. It’s who she is, her lifestyle and how we can make her almost the bread and butter of our line.” feel better. My lines specialize in understanding the Liz Lange Maternity also offers everything from individual woman.” bathing suits to suiting to silk custom-made evening For this, Texidor referenced a number of important gowns, Lange added. “We cover 24/7, weekday to vendors including Duet Designs and Arabella B, based weekend.” out of Toronto and London respectively, which offer Retail price points range from $40 to $295 and career items, Tummi, which offers a higher level of Lange also offers a separate maternity line for Target, fashion basics and VidaVita, which provides day-to- which can be found in every target location and online evening special occasion dressing. Additional brands with retail price points from $10 to $30. In the active she noted include Noppies, Meet Me in Miami, SPANX, apparel segment, Lange has partnered with Nike to Melinda G. and Prego Swimwear, as well as Japanese create the “Liz Lange for Nike” line. Weekend, which concentrates on comfort and offers Olian Maternity also offers activewear, along with convertible products that can be worn as tops, dresses swimwear, lingerie and matching mommy and baby or skirts. Texidor also pointed out the popularity of the nursing pajamas. Olian also offers a younger maternity Bella Band, a multi-purpose accessory which can be line called Elly-B. “Elly-B appeals to younger groups worn over or under the shirt to cover a woman’s belly and is more sporty and denim friendly,” said Liliana Del button or belly, hold up her pants or make her shirt look Cueto, founder and designer of the labels. Retail price longer. In order to showcase these items to storeowners points for Olian and Elly-B range from $60 to $80 for and press, Texidor is offering a new concept in tops, up to $200 for eveningwear and $280 for overcoat maternity design tradeshows called View Maternity at jackets that are fully lined. Aloft, October 15 – 18, 2006 at 307 West 38th Street, What put Belly Basics on the map was their Suite 1905, New York, NY. “Pregnancy Survival Kit,” according to Krystal Ng, Ngo agreed that her products are also meant to senior brand manager. The survival kit consists of four dress a woman the way she would have before she was essential pieces that serve as the foundation throughout pregnant. “Women want fi t, fabrication and fashion,” a woman’s pregnancy: a dress, a pair of slacks, a she said. Maternal America offers maternity swimwear, tunic and an A-line skirt; which are available in three tops, dresses and bottoms at price points ranging from different colors. “It’s a great kit to start building your $58 to $185, which can be found in boutiques and entire pregnancy wardrobe around. The products are online retailers. fi gure-fl attering and made with a superior-quality fabric LIZ LANGE

46 • MATERNITY MATERIAL WORLD PHOTO BY MARCY MALOY Japanese Weekend Arabella B Tummi VidaVita A NEW VIEW MATERNITY EXPECT THE BEST

Arabella B Japanese Weekend Olian Bella Band MaMe pure t Maternal America Prego Bravado! Designs Meet Me in Miami Ripe Daniella Simon Melinda G SPANX Duet Designs Noppies Tummi Elly B. OiOi VidaVita Noppies Prego

Melinda G SPANX Meet Me in Miami Bella Band

Showroom A New Tradeshow Concept Contact: Armanda Texidor A New View Maternity View Maternity at Aloft Call for an appointment 488 Fashion Ave, Suite 11J October 15-18, 2006 t. 212.643.9547 f. 212.643.1131 NY, NY 10018 307 W. 38th St., Suite 1905 [email protected] NY, NY 10018 Registration required ADVERTISEMENT Maternity à la Mode

Many maternity insiders assert that refused to pay high prices for a pair of jeans For Belly Basics, this spring maternity wear closely follows the regular that they were only going to wear for a few focuses on fresh dresses and market. For upcoming seasons, there are months. Now, it seems harder and harder to related sportswear. “The line a lot of exciting styles emerging, but one in sell jeans with no recognizable brand name. offers woman great pieces particular is the emphasis on form-fi tting There used to be just two designer lines they can incorporate into the items. remainder of their maternity “The biggest misconception in the wardrobe, but also entire maternity market in the past was that women outfi ts at a great price point, need to buy maternity clothes really big so women don’t have to think — so they could wear it until the day they so hard,” Ng said. “We also deliver their baby,” according to Pardue. offer many crossover pieces “Women would buy clothes so big; they that you can wear to work couldn’t wear it until they were seven and then into the evening but months pregnant. Today, women also out on the weekends. are realizing that bigger clothes also Right now, we are showing make you look bigger.” a lot of fl owing feminine Fitted styles are always important tops, dresses and great in maternity because women want to cropped pants that are show their new curves, Lange agreed. fashionable, comfortable “Being pregnant is a sexy time in a and charming.” woman’s life.” Baby doll dresses and Lange added that in last year or kimonos are also important so, a trend emerged in women’s wear of LIZ LANGE in the maternity category for Olian trapeze-style dresses and tops paired with Maternity’s upcoming season, with an skinny pants. These looks translate perfectly emphasis on the new trends for sleeves, to maternity, allowing women to continue according to Del Cueto. “For spring, the following the trends during their nine months bubble sleeve is big as well as silk voiles, carrying a baby. manufacturing for maternity, but now there silk georgettes and multi-color prints. “This fall, we see that baby doll, mod, are at least 10 different lines.” Before, maternity consisted of big dresses A-line look paired with skinny pants,” Lange Long, fl owing tops are also important, and bows and now a lot of customers say added. according to Texidor. “There’s an infusion their maternity wardrobes are their best. The importance of denim in rtw infl uenced of blues and greens, denim continues to They enjoy and are proud to show-off their its rise in the maternity market, according to thrive and outerwear is a hit. I think maternity belly bump with stylish, form fi tting and fl irty Pardue. “We are so glad the designer denim is a bottoms business and at the present, designs.” lines are fi nally starting to see how important the fold over band services every stage of Carlevarini at pure t noted that the casual designer denim is in a maternity wardrobe. your pregnancy which is something women market is increasingly important, as fun OLIAN Several years ago, many expectant women look for.” Continued to Maternity, page 11 MATERNITY BumpWatch Continued from Maternity, page 2 deciding what to wear, Pollack stressed. “This is a increasingly popular and stylish. “Whatever is happening wonderful, exciting time — a time to feel fabulous. in fashion happens in maternity wear. I think it’s a Women may lose their waistlines during pregnancy, combination of the times, it’s not only celebrity, it’s also and a few months after delivery too, but shouldn’t have a matter of where we are in the world.” to lose their sense of style. All the things they are — And no matter who is inspiring shoppers, one thing sexy, sassy, fun, tailored — don’t change when they are is certain — consumer conceptions about maternity pregnant.” have changed dramatically. There is a lot more available for today’s modern “Before, clothes covered you up, now women women looking to remain stylish during their pregnancy. celebrate and embrace the fact that they are giving birth Ng stressed that women want to be excited to and because of that they can be more fashionable,” get dressed in the morning. “It is very important that said Texidor. women don’t need to change their look because they are And according to Lange, the biggest changes have pregnant, and I think that the preconception of maternity happened in the past 10 years. “We’re in a world where wear has been conservative; now things are different, pregnancy is positively chic. There’s an expectation to today’s moms want to look hip, fun and sexy. We be stylish when you’re pregnant.” moved in this direction and are seeing a huge And pregnant women should not be timid when response.” PURE T

8 MATERNITY FALLCOLLECTION WWWLIZLANGECOM ADVERTISEMENT Support System “Nursing is on the rise, and as the category increases, women are looking for things that are really stylish and will make them look EVEDEN INC. and feel good.”

— Kathryn From, ceo and co-owner, Bravado! Designs

Continued from Maternity, page 4 functional, and it has to be — nursing women and good breast health — some things we today want both.” feel very strongly about and promote through While many companies offer only the elements of our design.” traditional array of white, nude and black, And these aren’t the only considerations Bravado! Designs adds sky blue, leopard, when designing a nursing bra. “Nursing is on blush, hot pink and others to the mix. the rise, and as the category increases, women “Our Lifestyle line is very innovative,” From are looking for things that are really stylish and added. “It’s the marriage of innovative fabrics will make them look and feel good,” said with the styling of traditional lingerie, but From. “It’s important to combine innovative it combines those elements with features fabrics and styling with elements of what that promote good breath health. All of the traditional lingerie market out there that really refl ects our philosophy, of making is doing. Our Nursing Tank for example, a woman feel good about herself during this has a great sexy look with a full built-in exciting, yet sometimes challenging time in molded bra on the inside. It’s fabulous and her life.”

10 MATERNITY ADVERTISEMENT The Maternity à la Mode Mommy Continued from Maternity, page 8 that you did before you were pregnant.” Market graphics and styles that expose the belly garner attention. Women who desire the same product offerings when Comfort is also consistently important to consumers and they are pregnant also demand the same color options. pure t makes this request a priority by offering only the “The consumer used to only be able to get nursing most luxurious cotton blends. “A lot of women even wear items in white,” West said. “Now they want it in color • What Moms value in a brand: our products post baby,” Fine added. “It’s cashmere- and they want to feel pretty in that point in their life. I quality, accessibility and heritage. like: it’s such a soft fabric, but without the delicacy of think there is more of a demand for people to be stylish cashmere.” so color is important; it’s making it much more fashion- • All Moms want quality products. Nursing items are also coming to the forefront of the forward. And we’re listening to what the consumer wants maternity category as celebrities like Angelina Jolie, who a lot more today.” • The most important factor of wears Bravado! Designs products, bring pregnancy into Maternity retailers play an especially important role choosing a product for Moms is the spotlight. “Retailers who traditionally focused only in the market and how expectant women buy maternity trust in the brand. on main-stream women’s apparel are realizing that they clothes, according to Pardue. “A fashion diva who has a don’t want to lose their customer during this important great sense of style can come into a maternity boutique • Moms are less likely to try time in her life,” From said. “They’re adding maternity and be completely clueless on what size she needs to something “new” on her children. and nursing to round-out their offerings, to speak to buy and how the clothes are supposed to be worn. It her needs throughout all phases of her life. After all, is the retailer’s responsibility to listen to each expectant just because you’re nursing doesn’t mean that you’re a woman and build a wardrobe for her based on her style • Young Mom’s want what is different person, or that you don’t have the same style and her needs.” “better,” not what’s “new.” “Before, maternity consisted of big dresses

and bows and now a lot of customers say their *source: The U.S. Mom Market Report by packaged facts maternity wardrobes are their best.”

— Liliana Del Cueto, founder and designer, Olian Maternity 11 MATERNITY SPECIAL ISSUE: Behind the scenes at fashion week in New York, London, Milan and Paris. or your WWD sales representative. sales or your WWD beauty director, director, Randi at212-630-4666; Segal, beauty executive Goldberg, Debra information, contact For advertising at 212-630-4595 or Deborah Levy, senior account manager, West Coast, at 323-965-7283 NOVEMBER 3 CLOSE: OCTOBER 6 WWD WWD Style StartsHere ™

PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 21 WWD.COM

The tents might be in jeopardy at Bryant Park. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY Last Dance for Tents at Bryant Park? Continued from page one and nearby transportation. Labor Day weekend to allow for the construction of the tents. Then there is the ice- “[Bryant Park] was the backyard of the fashion industry,” Mallis said. “It has be- skating rink, which was set up in Bryant Park for the first time last winter, and which come synonymous with the park. We have been good tenants and have worked dili- is said to have attracted enough sponsors to make it a profitable proposition for the gently to repair any damage to the park.” park. The park would like to extend the rink through February. The fashion community is rallying behind Mallis and IMG and is demanding the “We’re hoping they fi nd a place to move,” said Dan Biederman, president of the tents stay put. Von Furstenberg has shown her signature line at the tents for the past Bryant Park Corp. “It’s problematic use of the park during different times of the year. two seasons. “Bryant Park is a great place to have it, and we should be able to stay It’s not popular with many park users. We’ve been doing this for a long time. We’ve there, absolutely,” she said. “It does a lot for the city. New York is the center of trade, done our share. The shows now consume almost 2 acres of the park. It was one tent and people come to New York to sell, whether they are painters, artists or in the mov- — about 10,000 square feet — when they started. ies. Since fashion is the number-two industry in the city, it is very important that we “They have outgrown the park,” he added. “The question is can we and the city fi nd act like the professionals that we are.” them a better place. They are now so big I don’t think we can contain them anymore. It Zac Posen said: “We have shown in the Bryant Park Tents successfully for fi ve sea- [7th on Sixth] is a very successful venture that looks like it will continue expanding.” sons and to have that option removed would be most unfortunate.” IMG, which works on a year-to-year contract basis with the park, is said to be con- Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion offi ce and store presentation for sidering several other venues. The possibility of 7th on Sixth relocating next season, Bergdorf Goodman, said she certainly hoped IMG would not move the shows outside however, is sending shock waves through the fashion community as well as some busi- Bryant Park. Aside from relocating to the southern end of Central Park, she said she nesses in the area, which consider the biannual event a boon to New York business. could not imagine where else in the city the event could still be held in tents. The tents are not only convenient to editors and retailers, but have helped polish the “The fashion industry employs how many people in New York City? I would hope image of the park and given it a sense of glamour. the city would support fashion week twice a year,” she said. “Space is such a premium in New York,” said Fern Mallis, vice president of IMG, Fargo also noted that fashion week has helped polish up the park. “I would want to on Thursday. “We have always had a year-to-year contract, and inevitably, this is some- ask, ‘Didn’t our being here help restore the park’s image?’ It defi nitely has made this thing we face, so we always look at other options. We have looked at the waterfront, a much more chic hub in the city,” she said. and at other places.” Aside from the “selfi sh” fact Bryant Park is a short walk for Henri Bendel’s presi- Diane von Furstenberg, the incoming president of the Council of Fashion Designers dent and chief executive offi cer Ed Bucciarelli, he said the current location is also of America, is said to have taken the matter to Mayor Michael Bloomberg. If Bryant centrally located for many other fashion executives. “I love the idea of having tents Park decides not to renew the deal, IMG will be forced to fi nd a new venue for the where everyone can go from one show to the next. Bryant Park is easy to get to, and biannual shows quickly. Some sources close to IMG said the situation has taken on a it’s easy to get to other places from there,” he said. sense of urgency with the next round of shows just fi ve months away. Anna Wintour, editor in chief of Vogue, also feels strongly the shows should remain “IMG approached the CFDA a few weeks back to notify us that they may have an at Bryant Park. “It has been their home for a long time….It’s wonderful to have a cen- issue with staying in the park in February,” confi rmed Steven Kolb, executive director ter and meeting place that everyone can go to.” of the CFDA. “We value Bryant Park as the ideal city location for editors, buyers and As for Lincoln Center, Wintour said: “IMG is very aware of the situation and is designers. The blueprint of the tents offers maximum venue space for the very full doing due diligence. They looked at Lincoln Center, which is much smaller than show schedule. We are talking to the city and are working in cooperation with IMG to Bryant Park. We need to be able to accommodate everybody.” help keep the tents in Bryant Park.” Producing the shows in Bryant Park costs IMG about $12 million a year, and the Originally founded in 1980 as the Bryant Park Restoration Corp., with the assis- park takes in more than $1.5 million from the shows each a year. They reportedly tance of the Rockefeller Brothers Fund, the BPC is one of the largest efforts in the bring in more than $300 million of trade to New York. nation to apply private management backed by private funding to a public park. The “The fashion industry is a vital part of the city’s economy and we intend to ensure shows were fi rst held in Bryant Park in November 1993. In the fall of 1997, after four the long-term success of both the industry and fashion week,” said Andrew Brent, years at Bryant Park, 7th on Sixth was relocated for a season to the Chelsea Piers, on spokesman for the New York City Economic Development Corp. the Hudson River at the end of West 23rd Street. The venue was heavily criticized Phil Columbo, asset manager and managing director of the Bryant Park Hotel, said because of its lack of access, uncomfortable seating and editors having to maneuver the tents in Bryant Park helped revitalize the area and help businesses in the area. “The the West Side Highway to get to shows — never mind that fi nding a cab is even more tents were essential in making Bryant Park what it is today,” Columbo said. “It works out challenging there. great for our hotel. We do a tremendous amount of fashion business all year around, and “It’s unfortunate that in a city as fabulous as New York, there can’t be more spaces [7th on Sixth] helps reinforce what we do as a hotel. [The shows] create a lot of panache, for an event like this to happen,” Mallis said. “It’s such an extraordinary platform for excitement and sexiness to the area. We love it and we would be sorry to see it go.” the fashion industry, which is so important for the city.” While Columbo conceded that trucks and cars can block 40th Street, which can be An industry source said Lincoln Center is being considered as an alternative, “cumbersome” for guests, he said it was a worthwhile price. “The tents had a lot to do though that area would be 35 percent smaller than Bryant Park, and would most like- with the rebirth of Bryant Park being a special place in the city,” he added. ly involve a tent by the central fountain and another closer to 62nd Street, reachable Stan Herman, the outgoing CFDA president, struck a passionate note. “Without any only by an extensive footpath. sensible alternative to go to, it would be like removing the heart of New York fashion Mallis declined comment on Lincoln Center as a potential venue, but said any loca- with no respirator in sight,” he said. “I think it’s a dramatic situation.” tion needs to fulfi ll several criteria, including high ceilings, no columns, street access — With contributions from Rosemary Feitelberg © 2006 The Condé Nast Publications, Inc. © 2006

Meet Jane.

janemag.com She whitens her teeth . She tells filthy jokes. 24 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 The Beauty Report

DEREK LAM Hair by Orlando Pita BEHNAZ SARAFPOUR for T3; makeup by Tom Hair by Ashley Javier Pécheux for Shiseido for Herbal Essences; makeup by Gucci Westman for Lancôme PETER SOM Hair by Kevin Ryan for Aveda; makeup by Gucci Westman for Lancôme

Little Miss

BCBG MAX AZRIA Hair by Dennis Lanni for Bumble and bumble; makeup by J.P. McCary for Shu Uemura (Im)perfect

Who has time for prissy? This week, tousled styles, smudged eyeliner and cream blush smoothed on with fi ngers ruled the runways.

BADGLEY MISCHKA Hair by Thomas Dunkin for Aveda; makeup by CYNTHIA STEFFE Tom Pécheux Hair by Peter Gray for Aveda; makeup by Polly Osmond for MAC for Bumble and bumble; for Bumbleandbumble; Hair by Jimmy Paul Hair byJimmyPaul Soleimani forMAC makeup by Romy makeup byRomy BILL BLASS Romy SoleimaniforMAC bumble; makeupby Manetti forBumbleand Hair byLeonardo YIGAL AZROUEL McCulloch forMAC makeup byChristian Ryan forAveda; Hair byKevin MONIQUE LHUILLIER Bumble and bumble; makeup by Bumble andbumble;makeupby for MAC by DickPage Pita; makeup Hair byOrlando MICHAEL KORS Hair by Laurent Philippon for Hair byLaurentPhilipponfor Aaron DeMeyforBourjois WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER15,2006 ALICE ROI Clé de Peau Beauté Clé dePeauBeauté Lucia Pieroni for Lucia Pieronifor Pita for Babyliss Pita forBabyliss Hair by Orlando Hair byOrlando Pro; makeup by Pro; makeupby VERA WANG WWD.COM

25

PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN 26 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 The Beauty Report Putting Dreams to Work Mondavi’s New Beauty Vintage s his famed family approaches its fi rst century anniversary of winemak- Aing, third-generation member Carlo Mondavi is charting a new direction for the business into beauty. While remaining true to his California Napa Valley roots, the 26-year-old Mondavi, grandson of Robert Mondavi, is taking the health benefi ts of wine and translating them into a luxury, antiaging skin care line, called Davi, using antioxidants found in grape seed oil and fermented grape extracts. “I’ve always known about the health benefi ts,” said the young Mondavi, chairman and founder of the Napa-based Davi. “I realized that we can use the heart of the wine for something, especially after seeing the data that showed the antioxidant benefi ts grapes had on the skin.” Carlo had a vision of creating an all-natural grape-based skin care line two years ago. Research from University of California-Davis confi rmed the antioxidant health benefi ts of fermented grape extracts, grape itself and pomace, a byproduct of grape skins and seeds that results from the wine- making process during fermentation. In conjunction with a French lab in Lyon, Davi developed an antiaging antioxidant complex in a microencapsulated form called meritage, which preserves the formula to provide longer-lasting benefi ts. This mixture of high-level antioxidants is made up of ingredients including grape leaf, fer- mented wine extracts, grape, green tea, bilberry, black currant oils, olive, raspberry, rosemary Carlo E. Scott Beattie, and soybean. Mondavi Elizabeth Arden’s ceo “The microencapsulated formula allows us to and last year’s honoree, preserve the shelf life of the product until the with Dan Brestle, Charles moment you apply it to the skin and offers up Townsend and Jack Stahl. to nine hours of therapeutic relief,” said Josh

DREAM BALL PHOTOS BY JIMI CELESTE DREAM BALL PHOTOS BY LeVine, co-founder, executive vice president and creative director of Davi. NEW YORK — The hundreds of beauty execu- The line will be launched in October exclu- tives gathered Tuesday night at the Waldorf- sively at Bergdorf Goodman, and it is designed Astoria saw fi rsthand how their contributions to for use by both men and women. The center- the Dream Ball make a difference in the lives of piece of the Davi line, the antiaging face cream cancer survivors. dubbed Le Grand Cru, is derived from grand The annual event, which benefits the cru, or “great growth” — a term bestowed American Cancer Society and its Look Good, on the top vineyards in France. Both Feel Better campaign, showcased Pia Awal, a the men’s and women’s face creams are youthful cancer survivor who was diagnosed formulated with shea butter, with acute myelogenous leukemia days after her rosemary, green tea, grape 27th birthday, as its Dream Girl. extracts and vitamin E, in ad- “To learn about beauty and makeup was excit- dition to the meritage com- ing, but to participate in the session with other plex. The men’s cream also women who, like me, had cancer, was transforma- contains free radical antioxi- tive,” said Awal. “We were united by our cancer dants such as ginseng, witch and would likely lose our hair and see changes in hazel and allantoin, a botani- our physical self....Through the support of the Look cal extract from the comfrey

Good, Feel Better program, we would overcome plant, known for its toning STEPHEN SULLIVAN PHOTOS BY these challenges.” The 17-year-old program offers and astringent benefi ts. Both Select products from Davi. cosmetics and makeup tricks to cancer survivors. lines contain a cream, a daily The evening honored three beauty execu- lotion with an SPF 30 and a cleanser. However, the women’s line offers tives: Charles Townsend, president and chief ex- a toner while the men’s range contains a shaving and aftershave cream. ecutive offi cer of Condé Nast Publications; Jack Products range from $25 for Reserve Shave Cream to $175 for Le Grand Stahl, president and chief executive offi cer of Cru cream. Revlon, and Pete Born, executive editor, beauty, Although company executives declined to provide projections, industry of WWD. All three men made it clear that they sources estimate that Davi’s nine new products will generate between $3 considered Awal the real honoree. “The real million and $5 million in fi rst-year retail sales. star of this evening is Pia,” said Townsend. “I As an allusion to the Mondavi family’s vineyard roots, the men’s line is salute Pia and all of the women involved in this packaged in a deep burgundy, while the women’s products feature a jade program who restore vitality, confi dence and design, evoking the fresh youthfulness of green grapes. self-esteem to those with cancer.” Added Stahl, When the fl edgling beauty offshoot was formed two years ago, the part- “The women who are affected are our wives, our ners reached out for some seasoned cosmetics industry management and co-workers and our friends. I was proud to see brought Joe Spellman on board. He already has big plans. “Mondavi is the cosmetics industry’s level of commitment to dedicated to wine and has ties to the family legacy, and we’re planning on these women, and so pleased to see their enthu- turning it into a luxury lifestyle brand, with skin care being just one part Pamela Baxter and Pia Awal. siastic responses.” of the business,” said Spellman, who joined Davi over a year ago as the There was just one minor drawback, said company’s president. Spellman is continuing in his regular duties as stra- Pamela Baxter, president and chief executive offi cer of LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics, tegic marketing consultant for Estée Lauder Cos. “The brand will have North America, and the evening’s chair. “I’ve been so obnoxious [in raising funds] that a sense of youthfulness and be fun, but with a sense of that ‘California my friends don’t even want to answer my calls,” she said with a rueful laugh. To good end, attitude.’” however: The evening raised $2.5 million for the American Cancer Society. According to Ed Burstell, senior vice president and general merchan- — Julie Naughton dise manager of beauty, footwear and accessories at Bergdorf Goodman, the collection has a lot of potential and opportunity for growth as it not only targets the women’s market, but also the men’s, a “market that is sometimes ignored when it comes to luxury skin care.” “This is a company that understands luxury,” said Burstell, who notes Gary Farn to Stop Distributing Two Lines the company’s history of producing high-quality wine for a century. “They’re able to provide a level of benefi cial antioxidant treatment from using NEW YORK — Gary Farn Ltd.’s U.S. distribution agreement with French firm Pacific grapes.” Création Parfums, which markets Lolita Lempicka and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Next spring, the company plans to open two destination spas — one in scents, will come to an end Sept. 30. New York and the other in Napa Valley. To coincide with the spa openings, The companies have worked together since 1999, when Gary Farn, based in Old Davi will launch a full body range. By the end of next year, the company also Greenwich, Conn., introduced Lolita Lempicka in the U.S. Their current contract, plans to introduce an eye gel designed as “an evening-after hangover cure,” which concludes at the end of the month, will not be renewed. Alison Farn Leigh, as well as facial scrubs and masks. president of Gary Farn, described the parting as amicable. The Bergdorf Goodman exclusive is meant to last one year; then the com- “It’s been a great relationship,” she said Wednesday. “It’s a fabulous brand. I’m pany plans to expand into other specialty retailers as well as spas. The com- passionate about the brand and have been since the beginning. I’m proud of the work pany is also in discussions about distributing its products through amenity we’ve done with it.” Discussing the impact of the end of the deal, Farn said, “We programs in hotels and will be sold online on davi.com. By end of next year, set business plans and we’re successful if we meet them. We don’t look to replace the brand will be sold internationally in three countries. brands; we [book] brands we passionately believe in. If you have that philosophy, you Davi’s print advertising campaign will break in about six men’s and don’t have to replace dollar by dollar.” women’s luxury magazines. The company also has plans to launch an info- A new distribution strategy for Pacifi c Création’s scents in the U.S. is expected to mercial that will premiere early next year. A sampling program distributing be announced soon. A Paris spokesman for Pacifi c Création had no comment. over 100,000 samples will also be set in motion. — Matthew W. Evans — Michelle Edgar WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 27

WWD.COM Jeanette Solomon: Clinique’s Northern Exposure By Molly Prior Mass Beauty Visionary linique plans to blaze a new retail path in Canada that could provide a bit of relief Cfrom claustrophobic U.S. department store consolidation. NEW ORLEANS — Jeanette Solomon was always an “off-the-record” type of The Estée Lauder Cos. brand, which according to the company is the number-one person. prestige beauty brand north of the border, has entered into a long-term agreement with Although she’d always give an opinion and a quote on an industry topic, Canada’s largest drugstore chain, Shoppers Drug Mart. she preferred to be an unidentifi ed source. So, it was no surprise that As part of the deal, Clinique will begin to roll out to the drugstore’s Beauty Boutiques, Solomon, who died Sunday, Sept. 10, at a hospice here at the age of 86, never assisted-sell departments that stock a host of prestige brands, including Lancôme, fully disclosed she had been suffering from several cancers. According to her Guerlain and Christian Dior. daughter, Marian Solomon, she didn’t want people crying and weeping. “Clinique is excited about entering the Beauty Boutiques in Shoppers Drug Mart,” said Solomon was always the type that would prefer a glass be raised in her Lynne Greene, global president for Clinique. “We join other prestige cosmetics companies honor. And on Thursday evening, several friends and associates did that at in this venture. We are now going to be able to reach a remote customer who has been ask- K&B Plaza in New Orleans. ing for Clinique for years.” She was perhaps the last remaining of the grand dames of mass market There are plans for at least 10 beauty retailing, including Solomon, Beauty Boutiques to carry a 9-foot Jeanette Solomon Ruth Wolfgang of Eckerd and Mildred ADDING UP BEAUTY section of the brand by next fall; Arnold of Thrifty, who created the ar- Clinique will enter the fi rst store by chitecture of today’s contemporary December, said Debra Hartwell, fi eld sales vice president for Clinique. Commenting on the beauty departments. unhurried pace of the rollout, Hartwell said, “It’s what we felt was right for the brand.” She was always willing to take new Shoppers Drug Mart currently sells a number of Lauder’s fragrance brands, including Sean buyers under her wing, especially at John, DKNY and Tommy Hilfi ger. meetings which could be daunting for But for some, the move isn’t bold enough. Lehman Bros. analyst Lauren Lieberman “newbies” as she called them. Rite Aid’s wrote in a research note Thursday, “The pacing of the Clinique rollout does not exhibit Judy Wray was once such a new face on much of a commitment or particularly high conviction from Estée Lauder.” She continued, the scene and they became close over “If anything, the company’s prolonged reluctance to participate in the Beauty Boutique the years. “All I can say is that I loved concept confi rms our thesis that Estée Lauder’s strategy is driven more by risk aversion her very much and will miss her even than the pursuit of meaningful growth.” more,” said Wray upon Solomon’s death. However, several analysts applauded the “She was one-of-a-kind and the end of move, and said that because Shoppers Drug Inside Shoppers Drug Mart’s an era, which everyone should remem- Mart is an established purveyor of prestige Beauty Boutique. ber but so few of us do. I am blessed to beauty brands, it could prove to be a more have known her and hope I can touch prudent alternative than setting up shop in people as she did.” J.C. Penney’s Sephora boutiques. At a memorial service held at the During an investor conference hosted Touro Synagogue on Tuesday, several by Prudential Equity Group last week, Dan speakers honored the life and times of Brestle, chief operating offi cer of the Estée Solomon — often mentioning her pas- Lauder Cos., said that Clinique would not sion for having a good time. Sidney Besthoff, the founder of K&B, the drug participate in the Penney’s venture. chain where Solomon worked for more than 30 years, was the fi rst to speak Shoppers Drug Mart, a chain of nearly at Tuesday’s memorial. He recalled the great times they had together as they 1,000 stores across Canada, bears little re- helped build the chain from a small entrepreneurial operation to a regional semblance to the average U.S. drugstore, power that was purchased by Rite Aid in 1997. Solomon loved her job at K&B, and places a greater emphasise on beauty. especially the art Besthoff col- Its Beauty Boutiques are awash in white, lected, including a lifelike statue from the titled fl oors to the lighted wall outside her offi ce. “He put that displays. The minimalist setting is com- one there to watch me,” Solomon plemented by black-clad sales associates, quipped in a 1980 interview. who make product recommendations in all Besthoff, moved to tears, was brands. Cosmeticians note shoppers’ purchases in client books to keep track of what followed by David Woolf, execu- they’ve purchased, said a Shoppers Drug Mart spokeswoman. She added that one out of tive vice president of retail sales every two women in Canada is a member of the chain’s Optimum loyalty card program. for American Industries International, who recalled his fears upon calling Shoppers Drug Mart expects to end the year with nearly 100 Beauty Boutiques and on Solomon for the fi rst time. He had heard stories she was a tough buyer. plans to open 40 to 50 more in 2007. The drugstore chain opened its fi rst boutique, which Upon his arrival, however, he immediately sensed he had a “connection” is located adjacent to its stores, in 2003 to gain a foothold in prestige beauty. with her that developed into a friendship. “At an industry meeting she pulled The experience is similar to a Sephora store, noted Hartwell, adding that next month, a group of buyers together to meet me and established what it would have Clinique will be launched in its fourth Sephora store in Canada. taken years to do for our company,” said Woolf. He added that “To really Clinique’s Canadian expansion, however modest, signals a move in the right direction, know Jeanette was not only a privilege but a door to the enjoyment of life.” noted several analysts. “And, while we certainly do not expect to see Clinique on shelves at U.S. Peter Lucarelli, who called on Solomon for years with Max Factor added, drug retailers any time soon, we are nonetheless encouraged that Estée Lauder Cos. appears “I have known Jeanette for over 20 years. I met her at K&B Drug when I was to fi nally be thinking ‘out of the box’ at bit when it comes to one of their core but mature and working for Max Factor and have always kept in touch with her. She was a slower-growth brands,” Citigroup analyst Wendy Nicholson wrote in a research note Tuesday. grand lady, such a joy to be around. We had a lot of fun over the years and I Clinique has committed to 10 doors initially, but should it widen its scope to all 100 Beauty will miss her very much.” Many manufacturers chuckled in remembrance of Boutiques, Nicholson estimated it could generate an additional $20 million in sales. the many stories she would tell and her love for a good joke. Morgan Stanley & Co. analyst William Pecoriello stated that the additional stores are Before accepting her role at K&B, Solomon had been a WAC during World not likely to have a material impact, but that the move is a positive sign. “Recent initia- War II, toured in a burlesque group and sold for Lanolin Plus. She arrived tives [BeautyBank] have gained modest traction, but selling Clinique in Shoppers Drug in New Orleans, she recalled in an interview 20 years ago, in a wool suit. Mart’s Beauty Boutiques and accelerated MAC store openings suggest that a greater Solomon immediately fell in love with the city. Any visitor to New Orleans focus on expanding distribution may be realized,” wrote Pecoriello. was always given a personalized tour that included some of the best res- He added that he expects the brand’s productivity in Shoppers Drug Mart will be taurants. Often she’d take them to her apartment decorated with numerous closer to that of its Sephora stores, rather than its department stores sales. During his industry awards, as well as fragrance factices fi lled with gin or vodka. She talk at the Prudential conference, Brestle said that, on average, Clinique generates sales didn’t even leave her beloved city during Katrina until forced to evacuate he of $150,000 per Sephora store, compared with $900,000 per department store. apartment. Solomon returned as fast as she could. Clinique is sold in 224 doors throughout Canada, including 98 Bay stores, 109 Sears She also fell in love with beauty retailing, often spending hours in the units, nine Holt Renfrew doors, three Sephora doors and fi ve independent boutiques. stores listening to what customers wanted. She was saddened in later years when computers took over the art of buying and merchandising. Sales people would often ask Solomon’s opinion on new products and she became so known for how she liked presentations to be made that to this day several chain drug sales staffers proclaim they were “trained the Jeanette Clairol to Air Ads Featuring Brad Johns Solomon way.” After Solomon retired, she never really left the business. She continued n Monday, Clairol will launch an advertising to attend industry trade shows such as the National Association of Chain Ocampaign starring the fi rm’s global color di- Drug Stores Marketplace meeting, held last year in her hometown. She, rector, Brad Johns. The TV spots will highlight along with cohort Shirley Northorp, formerly of London Drug, called them- Nice ’n Easy products and offer Johns’ advice selves “retreads” rather than retired. Solomon accumulated product samples on how to keep up hair between colorings. This to donate to her various charities. Solomon was a docent at New Orleans’ year also marks the 50th anniversary of Clairol’s Museum of Art and the D-Day Museum. Representatives of both spoke fondly famous “Does she...or doesn’t she?” campaign. of her at her memorial service. The 30-second spots were fi lmed in New York She was devoted to her daughter, Marian, who purchased a coffee planta- in July and feature Nice ’n Easy Color Boosting tion in Hawaii. Before her death, Solomon announced her daughter’s gutsy Glaze, which launched in January, and Root move, proud she had raised a daughter much like herself. Touch Up, which entered stores last year. Anyone wishing to make a donation in Solomon’s memory may do so by — Andrea Nagel sending donations to the Jeanette Solomon Memorial Fund, New Orleans ▼ Brad Johns will offer advice in Clairol TV ads. Museum of Art, P.O. Box 19123, City Park New Orleans, La. 70179-0123. 28 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006

The HBA Report WWD.COM Anthony Logistics Eyes Growth Dias Creates a Mobile Spa ANTHONY LOGISTICS FOR MEN IS BETTING A ygalle Dias de- Cygalle (far right) chats with series of upcoming skin care and shaving introduc- scribes herself sim- C a model at the Brian Reyes tions will drive wholesale sales of the company to $30 ply as a caretaker who show during fashion week. million in the next year. loves fashion. This month, the firm will introduce Body So it was a no-brain- Essentials, an eight-item range of shave creams and er that the fashionista shower gels that are tied into the brand’s existing came up with the idea quartet of body sprays. Then, in October, the fi rm will to create an on-the-go, introduce two items, Ingrown Hair Treatment and upscale healing spa to Self Tanner with Anti-Aging Complex. cater to celebrities and All told, the launches could generate upward of $4 the social elite. million in wholesale sales volume in their fi rst year, Dressed in a vintage according to industry sources. cream blouse with a “With men, ingrown hairs are one of the biggest problems in shaving,” said Tony Peter Pan collar and Sosnick, company founder and president. “We found that phytic, glycolic and sali- hot-pink stiletto boots,

cylic acids in combination in the formula have really been effective.” The product, Dias had a hippie-chic KRISTAL JOSHUA PHOTO BY $25 for 2.5 oz., also features pentavitin, a humectant designed to moisturize, and look that augmented willow herb extract and lavender oil to calm and soothe. the trendy scene at many of the suites at the Bryant Park Hotel Wednesday Explaining the reason for combining antiaging properties with a self-tanner, afternoon. As she waxed avidly on about her mobile spa, which she has af- Sosnick said, “We found that guys who were looking for self-tanners were also fectionately dubbed “her baby,” she was greeted several times by editors and looking for antiaging benefi ts and antioxidants.” Self Tanner with Anti-Aging publicists alike who all thanked her for the quick, relaxing massage they’d Complex is $28 for 2.5 oz. The product employs extracts of bilberry, sugarcane, just received. sugar maple, orange, lemon and apple to exfoliate and smooth the skin; peptides Cygalle also offered manicures and pedicures to models backstage at the intended to target fi ne lines, fi rm and brighten the complexion, and green tea Charlotte Ronson, Akiko Ogawa and Brian Reyes shows this week. extract, an antioxidant. “This is what I like to do,” she said, toying with her long, brown hair. “I Body Essentials comprises four 6-oz. shaving creams, each $15, and four 8- know how stressful fashion week can be and I just want people to take care of oz. shower gels, each $18. The range is divided into four scents themselves. This is like my way of giving back.” — there’s a shave cream and shower gel in each fragrance family Dias’ journey into the world of holistic healing began several years ago, — dubbed Strength (incense), Spirit (green tea), Courage (amber) after her personal introduction to the practices while working in the enter- and Energy (cardamom). A set of four soaps in the same scents, tainment industry and for fashion powerhouses Kenneth Cole and Nicole which will retail for $25, will bow later this month. Miller. The original four body sprays, launched last fall, garnered as “When you work in fashion and fi lm, you have to look and feel good,” she much as $900,000 in their fi rst eight months on the market, ac- said. “I was inspired by others I’ve met over time that were into healing.” cording to sources. After hooking up with her sponsor, the Asian pop star Sun, Cygalle There are plans for the Anthony Logistics brand, which com- launched the mobile spa early in July with an invitation-only event at the prises 81 products, to reach 2,000 doors in 20 countries — includ- Jaguar-Cain Estate in Southampton Hills. Cygalle even hosted a two-week ing 1,200 in the U.S. — by yearend. The U.K., France, Germany spiritual retreat, “Sun, Surf, Spa, Glow: A Summer in the Hamptons.” and Italy are among the brand’s biggest overseas markets. In the Although Dias failed to divulge profi ts from the mobile spa or prices for brand’s U.S. distribution network are retailers like Nordstrom, the services, she did say she hopes to continue taking care of her extensive Sephora and Bath & Body Works’ fl agships. list of upscale clients and build the brand. Dias also mentioned plans to open Ingrown Hair Treatment and Self Tanner with Anti-Aging a retail location next year in New York. Complex are slated to reach the brand’s full distribution; Body “I talked with Proenza Schouler this week, and he offered to make my uni- Anthony Logistics Essentials’ placement is expected to be forms for the spa,” she said. Ingrown Hair Treatment more limited. — Andrea Arterbery — Matthew W. Evans Beauty Products Add Sex Appeal to List of Ingredients CANDLE PROVIDES A MASSAGING LIGHT Each of the three candles in the line, Haberno + beauty accessories. But when it comes to buying things Grapefruit, Ginger + Date and Lychee for our sex lives, we have to step out of our normal ome consumers may be at- + Lapsang, are scented with what shopping patterns and go to stores,” said Myers, who Jimmyjane’s latest candle. Stracted to Jimmyjane’s lat- Imboden describes as an aphrodisiac. founded the company with her husband, Charlie. est creation, the Ember Natural “The scents are designed such that Introduced in 14 Victoria’s Secret stores late last Emollient Massage Candle, purely one scent guides the mood and the month, products range in price from $12 to $28 and for its classic white porcelain con- other provides a sexual energy,” he have whimsical names such as Don’t Stop Massage tainer and eclectic scents. said. “The grapefruit is very commonly Oil, Naughty Bubbles Bubble Bath, Add Magic But others may revel in its devi- recognized, but the spicy haberno gives Lubricant, I’m So Sexy Lip Gloss, Dust Up Kissable ant side. ANTONOV PAVEL PHOTO BY it a sexy edge. Ginger + Date is a warm Body Shimmer, Melt Chocolate Body Fondue and Ethan Imboden, chief executive embrace, like a hug, and the Lychee + Light My Fire Candle, as well as a seduction kit. offi cer and creative director of the Lapsang is the richest and most deep of Myers said the company tested the beauty prod- company, wants only one thing: the fragrances.” ucts a year ago in that all consumers know there’s no “The massage is sexy, but not just a single Victoria’s right or wrong way to use it. solely a sexual experience,” Imboden Secret store, and The paraffi n-free soy wax can- said. “I think you would be hard- after only a few dle is specially formulated with a pressed to fi nd these combinations any- months, Booty low melting point so that when it burns, it produces where else. Jimmyjane is about these juxtapositions Parlor was added a large amount of melted wax that can be poured and the unexpected.” to another six lo- onto the skin as an instant emollient. Melissa Ouellette, vice president of sales and cations. By the end “There is a notion of sexiness embedded within marketing for the company, estimated the massage of last month, that all of our products, but we don’t dictate what to do candle would do $500,000 in sales through the end number had dou- Booty Parlor items.

with them,” he said. “It doesn’t scream sexiness of the year. The candle will be available at C.O. MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY bled to 14. Starting other than the sexiness of the design. Many people Bigelow in New York, Fred Segal in Santa Monica, in October, the will understand it as just a candle.” Calif., and at select apothecaries and specialty bou- line will be available on Victoria’s Secret’s Web site Although Jimmyjane is known for its discreet, tiques throughout Europe. and through the retailer’s November catalogue. high-end, sexually oriented products such as plati- — Andrea Arterbery According to industry sources, Booty Parlor num and gold vibrators and silk and suede blind- could generate $1 million in fi rst-year retail sales, folds, the idea for the massage candle began with BOOTY PARLOR SEXES UP BEAUTY including its wholesale and home party business. Imboden’s fi rst experience with fragrance when The company also plans to expand “to other the company created the Threesome Essential ex sells. beauty chains and funkier department and lifestyle- Fragrances. S At least that’s what two former Hollywood ex- branding stores,” Myers said. Several hotels, includ- “The idea with Threesome was to capture the ecutives are banking on with Booty Parlor, a seven- ing the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Los Angeles and scent of attraction,” he said. “Along the way, we were item line designed to enhance beauty consumers’ the Red Rock Casino, Resort and Spa in Las Vegas, introduced to a lot of amazing scents, so I started a sex lives. are offering Booty Parlor kits, as well. library of oils that I set aside that seemed intriguing Leaving the entertainment industry behind to toy Over the next two years, there are even plans to to me.” around in another kind of “entertainment,” Dana open a fl agship and evolve into a chain. Armed with a multitude of scents, Imboden said Myers said Booty Parlor should alleviate shoppers By next spring, the company plans to introduce the company then focused on the illumination and from having to go outside beauty venues for their Curve Appeal, a fi rming cream meant to fi rm “wom- design of the candle. The porcelain square shape of massage oil, bubble bath and lubricant. en’s most luscious body parts,” and a Bronzing Mouse, the container allows for an even, illuminating glow “As women, we have so many choices when it comes a body lotion designed to deliver color and shimmer. when lit. to buying things — from fi tness products to fashion and — Michelle Edgar WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 29 WWD.COM Media/Advertising Happy Days

It’s no great stretch to imagine the magazine world as a grown-up version of high school, given Jann Wenner, Wenner Media MEMO PAD its advanced stage of adolescent histrionics and maneuverings. Editors in chief rule over cliques of staffers, pushing trays in glossier cafeterias than they did as gawky teens. Be they born queen bees or reformed slackers, boot-licking overachievers or obstinate rebels — or, most likely of all, incredibly nerdy — it is safe to say most were hoping to leave actual high school buried in the past. No such chance. WWD has scoured the archives and the mastheads and gathered together high school photos of some top editors. Revelations along the way were by turns predictable (Seventeen editor in chief Atoosa Rubinstein was voted biggest brown-noser) and surprising (US Weekly’s Janice Min is remembered at her alma mater for her focus on hard news and her disdain for features). Elle editor in chief Robbie Myers was denied senior yearbook glory when her high school mistakenly printed in her place the photo of an African-American girl who was not a student there. For everyone else, just in time for the end of summer and fashion week, it’s back to school. — Irin Carmon Linda Wells, Allure

Amy Astley, Teen Vogue Susan Schulz, Cosmo Girl Kim France, Lucky

Dan Peres, Details Jim Nelson, GQ Atoosa Rubenstein, Seventeen

Cindi Leive, Glamour Janice Min, Us Weekly Brandon Holley, Jane

Martha Nelson, The People Group David Zinczenko, Men’s Health Bonnie Fuller, Star 30 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 WWD.COM Port Security Measure Passed in Senate By Kristi Ellis ens security at our land and seaports, it addresses truck, rail and pipeline security,” said Sen. Ted Stevens (R., WASHINGTON — The Senate passed a $6 billion port se- Alaska), a key committee chairman who shepherded the curity bill Thursday that would implement programs at bill through the Senate. “I believe it is the most compre- home and abroad in an effort to bolster defenses against hensive approach to border security we have taken.” terrorist attacks. Sen. Susan Collins (R., Maine), another key leader on the The Port Security Improvement Act authorizes the bill, said it is “major port security legislation that will pro- funding over six years to improve security at ports and vide structure and resources needed to better protect the railways, as well as a pilot program at three foreign ports American people from attack through ports that are both to test and establish a screening system for radiation points of entry and vital centers of economic activity.” within one year. The legislation also would require 22 Democrats maintained the bill fell short of what is ports to establish procedures and technology to examine needed. all U.S. containers for radiation by the end of next year. The Senate voted 61-37 to table an amendment of- After fi ve days of debate that saw both parties mak- fered by Sen. Charles Schumer (D., N.Y.) that would ing national security an election-year issue, the Senate have required, within four years, that every container voted 98-0 in favor of the bill, which must go to a con- entering the U.S. pass through a three-layered scanning Shipping containers come ference committee and be reconciled with a House bill system similar to one used at the port of Hong Kong. The into New York. that was passed in May. move essentially kills the plan. Retailers and wholesalers that imported $89.2 billion “The bill before us has a pilot program for three for- worth of apparel and textiles last year were relieved the the U.S., arguing technologies need to undergo more test- eign ports to fi nd out if it is feasible and practical,” Collins Senate rejected attempts by Democrats to require 100 per- ing and fi ne-tuning before such a goal can be set. said. “Can we do 100 percent scanning without slowing cent screening in foreign ports of all containers coming to “The bill the Senate will pass today not only strength- the fl ow of commerce? Right now, it appears we cannot.” Bumble and bumble, Patagonia to Take PLM Global Everest Do Denim By Denise Power It’s not a unique situation for apparel companies, he said, and it became clear that growth at Patagonia LONDON — London tailor Timothy Everest is CHICAGO — After rolling out technology to streamline would be hindered without “some sort of technology teaming up with Bumble and bumble to sell a tai- product development at its home offi ce, Patagonia is fi x.” lored and ready-to-wear denim line in New York. looking to extend the application deeper into the glob- “When you have an environment like that, your The collection will make its U.S. debut at Bum- al supply chain. time-to-market calendar becomes limited,’’ Busch ble and bumble’s new retail space on the top This software, called product life cycle manage- said. “It takes more time to get product through the fl oor of its training academy in the Meatpacking ment, or PLM, is gaining favor among apparel com- development cycle and to market.” Now, that informa- District, at 415 West 13th Street. panies seeking improved visibility into each stage of tion is centralized and everyone can access accurate The 6,500-square-foot space will feature a bar- product development. A major goal is faster speed to data relevant to their jobs. ber shop and tea house, and will sell home and market, but that can only happen when each depart- However, the implementation has not been without travel accessories. It’s set to open at the end of ment is in sync on timetables every step of the way its challenges. Integrating the new technology with ex- next month. During the year, Everest’s tailors visit — from design concept and costing to sourcing, pro- isting, customized software was tough, Busch said. And his U.S. showroom to fi t customers for his bespoke duction and distribution. employees had to be persuaded to swap the spread- and made-to-measure collections. Patagonia completed the rollout of PTC’s FlexPLM sheet-based system they had grown comfortable with Everest’s collection is a tailored denim line, software to 100 employees at its Ventura, Calif., head- for a new Web-based system. with fabric sourced from Japan. He will offer three quarters in June. The company’s move to take the tech- Even something as seemingly trivial as data entry different types of fabric: a houndstooth pattern, a nology global — to agents and factories overseas — is presents challenges. “You can’t expect designers to be- dark indigo that looks unwashed and a washed to be announced on Monday. come data entry clerks,” Busch said. vintage denim. PLM already is beginning to yield benefi ts, Mike Companies adopting PLM need to think through There will be two women’s styles, boot-cut Busch, Patagonia director of information services, said whether data capture for product specifi cations and and skinny, and two men’s styles, a loose fi t and during a Webcast Tuesday. Before the rollout, employ- other information is to be centralized or decentralized a slim, tapered one. In the U.S., both lines will be ees spent as much as 50 percent of their time trying to at the design stage, he said. Privately owned Patagonia exclusive to Bumble and bumble. In the U.K. the fi nd information they needed to do their jobs, or wait- tried it both ways and opted for a hybrid approach. denim collection is available at Everest’s shops in ing for it to be furnished by others, he said. “Global process visibility” is the next goal, Busch Spitalfi elds and Mayfair. “It was diffi cult for us to look at a fi nancial view added. “We haven’t rolled it out globally yet, but that The made-to-measure jeans will retail for 295 related to product selection or distribution channel,” is coming up. We are going to integrate the supply pounds, or $555 at current exchange, while the rtw Busch said. “And the development calendar was very chain and make information available to [agents and jeans will sell for 175 pounds, or $329. much out of sync with the fi scal-year calendar. So the factories] as well as ask them to provide more infor- The London tailor also will sell a selection of fi nance guys were always hounding the design guys mation, so we can get rid of all the faxing back and shirts, ties and accessories at the new space. with, ‘Well how much is this going to cost us?’” forth.” — Samantha Conti

Evelyn “Evy” Dubrow in Dubrow Remembered as Labor Champion 2002. By Kristi Ellis pointed Dubrow, Rangel was among the father was a senator. power players in Washington who paid “She grew up in an era when women WASHINGTON — Evelyn “Evy” Dubrow, homage to her at a memorial service. were confi ned primarily to the honorable who died in June at the age of 95, was Among those attending were professions of homemaking, teaching and remembered here Thursday as a tireless Sens. Edward Kennedy (D., Mass.), nursing,’’ Kaptur said. “To go outside of champion of labor who bridged the politi- Paul Sarbanes (D., Md.) and Frank those boundaries, which she did with cal divide on behalf of garment workers. Lautenberg (D., N.J.) and Reps. George humor and deft, took enormous strength.” Dubrow, named the fi rst Washington Miller (D., Calif.), Marcy Kaptur (D, Bruce Raynor, general president of lobbyist and representative for the Ohio) and Sherwood Boehlert (R, N.Y.). UNITE HERE, remembered a lobbying ILGWU in 1956, is the only union advo- Kennedy surveyed the crowd of labor battle on behalf of 150 garment workers cate to receive the Presidential Medal of and women’s rights leaders and said he in Miami who were making bulletproof Freedom. Diminutive in stature at just 4 half expected Dubrow to walk in. vests under a military contract in “abu- feet 11-inches, Dubrow had substantial “You don’t meet many living legends sive” conditions. Inside a senator’s offi ce, infl uence with members of Congress. in your life, but Evy was one of them,” Dubrow told Raynor to make the case to The late House Speaker Thomas P. Kennedy said. “She was truly the 101st help the workers, which he proceeded to “Tip” O’Neill once directed the House senator and she’ll be deeply missed.” do. But facing a recalcitrant politician, doorman to place a chair specifi cally for Dubrow was indefatigable and had a Dubrow jumped in and took over. Dubrow at the entrance of the chamber. personal touch that extended to labor- “She said to me, ‘You’ve got to stand O’Neill “made it abundantly clear ers and lawmakers. up to politicians. You can’t let them then…that anyone who didn’t get along “She went through 24 pairs of shoes intimidate you,’” Raynor said. “Evy with her had a problem with him,” said a year walking the halls of Congress,” Dubrow never let members of Congress Rep. Charles Rangel (D., N.Y.) “Between Kennedy said. “She knew everyone.” intimidate her.” Tip O’Neill on one side and my mother When Dubrow arrived in Washington Raynor, whose union counts the job: “I go see everybody who has a vote.” [who worked for the ILGWU for 25 in the Fifties, lobbying was dominated ILGWU as one of its key predecessors, Working to further the cause of labor years] on the other, quite frankly, I be- by men. But, armed with a leather- said he associates Dubrow with three was something Dubrow did until the end, came a deputy of Evelyn Dubrow.” bound list of the names and faces of signature issues: trade legislation, im- as she so noted on the video: “I suspect As the House debated an immigra- lawmakers, Dubrow learned to fi t in and migration and minimum wage. you’re going to have to take me out feet tion bill, stripped of provisions grant- work the room, played poker with them In a video that showed her at work fi rst to get me out of this job. I love it.” ing a path of citizenship to immigrants, and babysat their children, including and illustrated the dizzying number of — With contributions from which undoubtedly would have disap- former vice president Al Gore when his people she knew, Dubrow explained her Evan Clark WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2006 31 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

EXCITING OPPORTUNITIES!!

Leading Private Label Contemporary Collection is GROWING! Seeking dynamic individuals with experience in knits and wovens to join their rapidly expanding team. GREAT OPPORTUNITIES TO JOIN OUR TEAM! Men’s Designers: Assistant/associate designers needed. 1- 2 yrs Knits & Accessory Exchange, a leading handbag and accessory Woven exp. a must, as is knowledge of yarn dyes and constructions. Must Accessories: company, is seeking talented individuals to join our growing have expert knowledge of Illustrator & Photoshop. Strong hand illustration Sr. Sales Executive seeking position in team. skills are essential as are outstanding organizational skills. accessory category. Exp’d w/all majors. Must be financially sound Co. looking to Men’s Tech Designer grow. Call Ronald 215-360-8598 4 yrs. exp. in knits and wovens Men’s apparel. Must be able to create Akademiks, Senior Designer-We are seeking a designer spec and construction requirements. Strong communication with over- to help launch the handbag line for this exciting brand. The seas offices. Strong Illustrator and Photoshop a must. ideal candidate must have a minimum of 5 years experience and proficient in all areas of handbag design and pc goods Assistant Production Coordinator development. A collaborative spirit is the key to success of 2 yrs exp in women’s knits and woven apparel to help in the production this position. Strong computer and organizational skills and process by monitoring deadlines and moving traffic. ability to work with a winning team are the key. Overseas and domestic travel required. We offer an excellent work environment, competitive salary & benefits. Email us: [email protected] Please fax resumes in confidence to: 212. 556. 5462 attn: Carmela

57th St. - Full Floor - 3000 ft. Soho Penthouse live / work skylights Bryant Park Duplex - All Great Deals Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Showrooms & Lofts AMERICAN EAGLE BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great ’New’ Office Space Avail OUTFITTERS ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Office Admin. Women’s Contemporary Manufacturer/Retailer is now hiring Will need exp & understanding of LIVE YOUR LIFE Sales Associates for our new retail location in wholesale environment, good LOVE YOUR JOB NY’s Meat Packing District: communication skills, computer Come see us at the WWD Fashion Career Expo skills & be detail oriented. Ideal Booth #56 or apply at our career site: OPEN HOUSE candidate will have good organiza- www.liveyourlifeloveyourjob.com Wed & Thurs, Oct 4th & 5th tional skills, multi task well and 10am-3:30pm will preform admin. duties and Sascha Restaurant knowledge of QB program 55 Gansevoort Street, New York, NY SHANGHAI EXP’D MFR Production - Inventory Control Exciting Opportunities! Bring your resume and dress for interview success! Better/designer eveningwear supplier. Leading Children’s Wear importer seeks superior detail orientated individuals: Quality work, Quick turnaround Must be experienced, have good Call (212) 461-4852 www.alamoda.com communication skills, be detail TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Sales Associates - Full & Part Time oriented and have organizational Req knowledge of spec development, garment construction, grading and Seeking energetic Sales Associates who love fashion! Must and computer skills. QB program sample approval process. 5 years experience, should include working w/ have an established client book, love to sell, enjoy building and be able to multi task. major retailers. Pattern making is a plus. relationships w/ customers & provide superior customer service. Fax resume: 212-941-0336 PRODUCTION COORDINATOR: If you are unable to attend our Open House, E mail resume to: Resp for all phases of Production. Will work w/ sales, design, and overseas please email or fax your resume to: Full Service Design Studio Kristine Space, [email protected], Specializing in eveningwear offering [email protected] manufacturers. Must be organized w/5 years exp. Fluency in mandarin is plus. design, draping, beading on premises. Submit resume, salary requirements, and references in confidence to: 626.457.8439 — trinaturk.com Sewing of individual samples or complete private label packages. [email protected] See our website at: www.kahnlucas.com Please call Geri (212) 840-7070 Administrative Assistant RETAL STORE Min. 2 years home textiles experience DESIGNER Detailed oriented,strong analytical & Customer Service/Bookkeeper Moderate handbags. Should be creative, MANAGER PATTERNS, SAMPLES, computer skills Knowl. of Excel, Windows, Growing beauty co. seeks entry level able to meet deadlines, detail oriented, Designer Madison Avenue luxury bou- PRODUCTIONS MSOffice, Photoshop Responsibilities: Customer Svc./Bookkeeper. MAS90a + 5+ yrs. exp. Photoshop & Illustrator exp . tique seeks outgoing, motivated, hard All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. generating purchase orders, packing lists, Only resumes with salary req’s will be Fax resume to: (212) 868-2780 or working individual with strong client Call Sherry 212-719-0622. sales reports, spread sheets, retailer input considered. [email protected] Email: [email protected] relations. Contact following a must! sheets . Coordinate all shipments, retail Proven ability to sell high-end products, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, chains logistics dept, work schedules MANAGER merchandise a store and manage a Contact: [email protected] Apparel co. seeks Quality Assurance/ sales staff. Excellent salary & benefits SALES MANAGER DESIGNER package. Please fax 212-452-4350 PRODUCTIONS A children’s wear mfr. has an immediate Compliance Manager to work in our Full service shop to the trade. opening for a Full Time Designer. Exp. Warehouse in Edison, NJ. 3-5 yrs exp. & EXECUTIVE CAD DESIGN ...... 50-60K Lacier, an elegant brand new jewelry Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Bedding, Point Carre, Photo / Illus in 2 pc. & 3 pc. children’s sets preferred. Send res. [email protected] or Illustrator/Photoshop a must. fax 212-244-3808 att: HR select shop, seeks for a sales executive Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 & Manager who loves to be surrounded [email protected] Please e-mail resume/salary to: [email protected] w/ beautiful jewelry. Candidate will www.srisearch.com PATTERN MAKER need fascinating communication skills. Couture House specializing in This is a great opportunity for people eveningwear seeks exp’d individual for Clerical / Office Manager Molton Brown who have always dreamt to be in the head of custom division. Team player Molton Brown, a British luxury personal jewelry industry. Send resume to: Designer for Hire Midtown Mfg. seeks exp’d computer who can work well under pressure and [email protected] oriented person for order entry, billing, care mfr and leading retailer, has excit- Line design and graphic art deadlines. Able to create from sketch, ing career opportunities available: Fax: 212.962.1432 services offered. inventory control. Office Manager draping a must. Excellent Opportunity! Call 917.689.4420 experience. Full Time with benefits. Fax resume: 212-869-2236 Wholesale Account Fax resume to 212-921-7082. Att: Alan DESIGNER SALESPERSON Excellent opportunity to design for a Coordinator Missy/Plus Size Knit Company. Must rapidly growing NY based Luxury Account coord. will be responsible for be aggressive, have good account base Home Accessories Co, KIM SEYBERT servicing wholesale retail partners. with strong contacts. Email resume to: Position available in the following [email protected] We are seeking a creative, talented & territories: NY, DC, FL, AZ, TX. highly motivated apparel or accessory Specific duties include: assisted selling, designer who thrives in a fast paced, merchandising, coordinating in-store hardworking environ. Candidate must events and promotions, conducting be organized, computer literate & have trainings, and following up w/ buying exp. Working w/ overseas factories on offices as needed by corporate. all phases of devel. From artwork, Submit resumes to: sampling, specs & approvals to follow [email protected] up. Perfect candidate will have impeccable taste & exp working w/ hi end majors and specialty stores. Some exp in embroidery design, sourcing and Photoshop a plus. We offer the same highly competitive compensation and benefit package as a major apparel firm, but in the friendly Trimmings & Ribbons CONTEMPORARY SPORTSWEAR environ. of the home accessories world. Mfr seeks experienced and motivated New unconventional contemporary Qualified candidates, please email or fax Sales Rep w/ knowledge of industry. sportswear label seeks NY and LA rep- your resume & salary requirements to: Strong following a must. All territories resentation. Must have showroom and [email protected] or 212 695 8803 open except NY. For details visit our contacts with specialty stores. Email website www.shindo.com resume to [email protected] Call 212-868-9311 Hiro/Steve WWD-CS-traz.indd 4 17/8/06 16:07:54