Budget WorldClass Drives CHIANG MAI - MAE HONG SON LOOP
Highlights of the Drive 109 he Mae Hong Son Loop is a classic drive that crosses and recrosses the T MAE SUAI 107 spectacular watershed between the 1226 1178 1322 118 PANG MAPHA 1322 River Ping and the Salween in Burma- 1285 1095 Myanmar. 1150 PHRAO PAI CHIANG DAO 2 WIANG PA PAO Starting in Chiang Mai, the cultural 3 107 and historical capital of Northern Thai- MAE HONG SON 1001 WANG NUA land, a high route crosses to the small 1095 MAE TAENG 108 120 town of Pai, a very popular starting 1265 point for trekking into the hills to see the Lahu, Hmong, Lisu and Karen hill MAE RIM 1001 1096 118 1252 tribes common to this region. 107 1263 SAMOENG KHUN YUAM 1269 1 CHIANG MAI West of Pai the route goes through a rugged, mountainous territory with 108 CHAE HOM SANPATONG 1157 1013 1147 sunken valleys hemmed by cliffs pen- 1088 etrated by deep caves — an area that 1192 1009 LAMPHUN 1035 offers many opportunities for adven- MAE CHAEM 1033 11 ture sports amidst a landscape of out- 1266 108 standing natural beauty. Rejoining the 1270 LAMPANG 1184 1034 Pai River Valley near the provincial BAN HONG 11 capital Mae Hong Son, the highway 4 HOT MAE SARIANG 106 KO KHA provides the main link to this cultur- 1012 5 1103 1274 1 ally distinct enclave with its Shan and 105 SOEM NGAM Karen peoples. DOI TAO 1023 WANG CHIN Three return routes offer choices 106 1 that can take you on scenic routes OM KOI LI 1125 directly back to Chiang Mai, or can take 1087 you as far as south as Phitsanulok via 106 1099 5 THOEN Sukhothai. Choose your route and then 1102 1294 enjoy your drive through some of the 1267 most spectacular territory in the Kingdom. 105 THUNG SALIAM
1
THA SONG YANG 1113 ROADS IN THAILAND SAM NGAO
All main and most minor roads are sealed. Signs and reflective 1175 1175 markers warn of hazards on major highways, and sodium lighting MAE RAMAT illuminates major intersections. Bilingual (English/Thai) road signs 1107 indicate destinations, highway numbers and distances before and TAK 12 after intersections. 5 105
Oliver Hargreave Kilometre stones show highway number and distance along 1108 1132 the road on the front face, and distances to destinations in the MAE SOT WANG CHAO direction of travel on the side. The police and military set up road 1110 101 check-points on highways, especially at night, but there are no 1109 security problems. KAMPHAENG PHET 115 Please remember to drive on the left! 1116
1206 Emergency Assistance 1-800-BUDGET, Chiang Mai Office (0) 5320 2871, 1090 (0) 1980 8723, Phitsanulok Office, (0) 5525 8556, (0)N 1820 8644 1 10kms 1117
Online Bookings: R KHLONG LAN Our fastest way to rent a car www.budget.co.th UMPHANG
www.budget.co.th 1 CHIANG MAI SECTION 1 : 128 kms. PAI
hile it is best to see the CHIANG MAI to PAI W sights of inner Chiang Mai on foot, or to hire a pedicab, 5 2175 your car becomes most useful N Õ.ª“¬ ∫.·¡à‡¬Áπ CHIANG DAO Mae Yen 1962 to see the sights around Chiang PAI Huai Nam Dang National Park Õ.‡™’¬ß¥“« 10kms liver Hargreave
Pong Mai∫.‚ªÉß„À¡à O Mai. These include Wat Phrathat Tha Phai Hot Spring Tha Pai Doi Suthep, a must for all who ∫.∑à“ª“¬ 107 visit Chiang Mai, and the Mae M a e T a e n g ∫.‡¡◊Õß·√à 4 Sa Valley, a scenic valley with Muang Rae ∫. ∫°“¬ Pong Duet Hot Spring Sop Kai Pai ∫. ∫ “ 2005 Mae Sae so many attractions that the area ∫.·¡àµ–¡“π Sop Sa Lisu Mae Sae (walk 30min. up from Pang Luang Mae Taman merits at least a full-day if not a Wildlife Sanctuary HQ) Sri Lanna National Park night at one of the numerous
1095 country resorts (see sidebar and Mae Ngat Dam city map section 4). ∫.ªÉ“·ªÉ MAE TAENG 1265 Pa Pae Õ.·¡à·µß 7 Once you are heading north 6 ∫.·¡à¡“≈—¬ 3 ∫.«—¥®—π∑å Mok Fa Mae Malai on the route proper, take the Wat Chan 1805 ∫.·¡à·®à¡πâÕ¬ Wat Tha Kham alternative route from KM18 Golf Mae Chaem Noi 1422 Chiang Mai Green Valley Country Club San Pa Yang north of Mae Rim through the ∫.¥Õ° “¡À¡◊Ëπ Tel: (0) 5329 8220-23 Fax: (0) 5329 7386 ∫. —πªÉ“¬“ß Dong Sam Meun Lanna Golf Course Tel: (0) 5322 1911 Royal Chiang Mai countryside following the River Fax: (0) 5322 1743 Ping Hao for a leisurely route which Royal Chiang Mai Golf Club. (Hotel $$$) (alternative route) Tel: (0) 5384 9301-6 Fax: (0) 5384 9310. joins H1095 to Pai near KM10 Mae Daet Not
2 www.budget.co.th ALTERNATIVE ROUTE TO PAI VIA WAT CHAN (4WD!) ALTERNATIVE ROUTE ALONG THE HAO VALLEY If taking this route from Chiang Mai, start very early (23KMS) and avoid delaying in the Mae Sa Valley in order to reach North of Pointer 2 you will cross a bridge (KM18) Pai by nightfall. Avoid this route in the rainy season as and then enter a bend to the left. Turn left through an muddy sections, particularly around KM71 can make this arch at the sign to Thai Buffalo Training Camp. The “all-weather” road difficult. camp is on the left after 1km (show times: 08:00/09:00/ 15:00/16:00 Adults 150bht. Tel: 0 5330 1628). Follow From Samoeng the route follows a cobbled lane north (do not go left at intersection after 1.5kms.) this rural to Ban Mae Sap Nua (5 kms.) and is sealed to near Ban route, which at times is reduced to a narrow concrete Mae Yang Ha (30 kms.). The road continues on a winding lane. Rural temples of note are at Wat San Pa Yang highland route passing Hmong villages (Ban Mae Chae (KM17) and Wat Tha Kham (by the Bo Tree at KM22). -40 kms., Ban Mae Tala -54 kms., and Ban Don Sam Meun The route eventually joins H1095 between KM10&11, -75kms.) Ban Mae Chaem Noi (84 kms.) is a large Karen where-upon you turn left (west) to continue to Pai village in the middle of pine country. (this route misses pointer 3). From Wat Chan, which is in the middle of an area famous for its pine forests, H1265 is an all-weather dirt road that joins H1095 at KM.85. Cross the River Pai approx ACCOMMODATION 33 kms. from Wat Chan for a slightly shorter route to Pai on the Pai-Muang Paeng road. • Hut Ing Pai $$, H1095 KM102-3 south turn 300m. Tel: (0) 5369 9781-2. Bkk Res: (0) 2702 7208.
Trekking & Rafting Agencies 4 Police Checkpoint POINTER FOUR A Back Trax, Rungsiyanon Rd. Tel: (0) 5369 9739 B Permchai’s Trekking, Ratsadondamrong Rd. Tel: (0) 5369 8048 H1095 KM85. Start of H1265 to C Thai Adventure Rafting, Rungsiyanon Rd. Tel: (0) 5369 9111 1265 to Mae D Northern Green Tours, Chaisongkhram Rd, Tel: (0) 5369 9385 Malai Wat Chan E Elephant Camp Office Ban Thung Yao Wat Chan (alternative route to Chiang Mai) 4WD! 92 1095 Michel & Yuthit GH Be Bop Bar 3 Elephant Camp Rim Pai Cottage KM87-88 north turn on concrete road to Thaphai Ban Phong Mai Tha Pai Springs 5 D H 4 Hot Springs (2kms. Though part of Huai Nam Dang 3 A Jazz Up Cafe Pai Canyon National Park, there is no charge at present) as well E 2 as two resorts with open-air hot mineral baths. Pai Corner Bar B To Muang Paeng Mountain Blue C (26 kms.) 1 View Pai Hotel M Police H Guest Houses
Oliver Hargreave 1 PP Orchid. Tel: (0) 5369 9159 2 River Corner Guest House Tel: (0) 5369 9149 (06:00-21:30) 3 The Golden Hut Tel: (0) 5369 9949 to Chiang Mai 500
www.budget.co.th 3 PAI SECTION 2 : 109 kms. MAE HONG SON
PAI to MAE HONG SON M Y A N M A R Up-Market N 1610 1 Fern Resort $$-$$$ H108 KM260 east turn 2kms. Off Tel: (0) 5361 1374, (0) 5361 1877 Mid-Range Fax: (0) 5361 2363. Resort Tel: (0) 5361 3585 10kms 3 Mae Hong Son Resort $$ H1250 KM2-3 2 Golden Pai Resort $$$ H1095 KM202 west turn Tel: (0) 5361 3138-9 Fax: (0) 5361 3137 500m, Ban Pang Mu. Tel.&Fax: (0) 5361 2265-6. 4 Mae Hong Son Riverside Hotel $$$, Ban Huai Dua. CM Off: (0) 5327 1198 Fax: (0) 5327 9260 Tel: (0) 5361 1504, (0) 5361 3145 Fax: (0) 5361 3146. 1318 ∫.ª“ߧ“¡
1843 ∫.·¡à≈–π“ Mae La Na 8 1226 ∫.∂Ë”≈Õ¥ Õ.‡«’¬ß·Àß 1936 9 Ban Tham Lot 10 WIANG HAENG Lot Cave Mae Aw ∫.À⫬º÷Èß Wat Tham Wua (Meditation) Huai Phung Õ.ª“ß¡–ºâ“ PANG MAPHA ∫.π“ªÉ“·Ω° ∫.·¡à ÿ¬– ∫.‡¡◊ÕßÀπâÕ¬ Na Pa Faek Mae Suya Sop Pong Muang Noi M Y A N M A R 1285 ∫. ∫ªÕß Pha Sua Falls Tham Pla Pha Sua National Park
11 Ban Na ∫.À¡Õ°®”·ªÉ 1095 Mok Cham Pae Pang Paek ∫.µ“≈‡®Á¥µâπ ∫.„π´Õ¬ Tham Pla ∫.ªÉ“·ªÜ Tan Chet Ton Ban Nai Soi
ª“ßÀ¡Ÿ 1955 5 Pang Mu Õ.ª“¬ ∫.·¡à‡¬Áπ 2 Mae Surin National Park HQ PAI Mae Yen Rustic ∫.‚ªÉß„À¡à 1962 6 8 Cave Lodge $-$$ H1095 KM141 north turn 7kms. Pong Mai E-mail
liver Hargreave
108 O
to Mae he route to Mae Hong Son goes via Soppong, passing Hong Son 5 POINTER FIVE through beautiful scenery as it traverses the valley of T to Ban Nam Hu KM98 the departure point of H1095 west the River Khong. Side trips offer possibilities for exploration to Rungsiyanon Rd. from Pai in the sheer limestone scenery of the area. Nong Bia 1095 After descending from the mountains, Highway 1095 akirts the floor of the valley used for rice cultivation as it KM99. A left turn at the sign for Sipsongpanna guest approaches the provincial capital, Mae Hong Son. house is the start of a route that goes to Muang Noi and the Pai Dam (32kms). The dam itself is of no interest, but Known as the City of Mists, Mae Hong Son’s recent the dirt road (4WD) passes Lisu and Karen villages en route. modernisation has cost many of its old wooden buildings, but the area around the Chong Kham Lake retains its old KM101-2 A concrete lane leads to a Northern Thai charm. The town’s Shan heritage becomes especially village and the Muang Pai and Pai Mountain Lodge resorts. pronounced during their main festivals, the Poi Sang Lon A very rough (4WD!) 2km dirt road continues to a Lahu festival in March or May, and the Hae Chong Phara festival village and the minor Mo Paeng Falls. in the eleventh lunar month. KM141 A concrete road leads north Ban Tham Lot, where you turn right at the junction by the tree and go one kilometre to Tham Lot Cave. Villagers await with lanterns (100bht) and rafts (100bht) to escort you through the cave 4 www.budget.co.th TALAT BAN SOPPONG (PHANG MAPHA) (08:00-17:30). Cave Lodge nearby has comfortable rooms N and offers canoe trips, expert speleology and information To Ban Tham & Cave Lodge (7 kms), Tham Lot (8 kms.) on adventures into the area. (old Soppong) KM152 Sealed road to Mae La Na (4WD). The asphalt km141 T-Rex House $ Tel: (0) 5361 7164 and dirt road passes the Lahu village of Chabo (3.5kms) Fax: (0) 5361 7053 before dropping down to the Shan village of Mae La Na H Phrae House Restaurant (5.5kms). From there a dirt road continues north (4WD 12:00-22:00 only), passing the Red Lahu villages of Ban Pha Charoen Soppong River Inn.$ Lemon Hill Guest House $ Tel: (0) 5361 7107 06:30-19:00 H (8kms) and Yapanae (11.5). to Phang Mapha H district office M Market A sign at the junction north of Chabo indicates dis- Police tances to distant villages on a sealed road (sealed 4kms,
Wat Ming Muan H 4WD only beyond!) that follows a spectacular ridge line Jungle Guest House $ north towards the border with Myanmar. Allow a full day
Oliver Hargreave for exploration. KM166 dirt road to Wilderness Lodge (4WD to Bang Pang Mu MAE HONG SON Pai 1.5kms-park at top of entrance track to lodge). N Remote, rustic ($) accommodation for nature lovers only. Walk and explore. 1095
liver Hargreave O KM191-2 Tham Pla (Fish Cave). Part of
207 the Tham Pla Nam Tok Pha Sua National Park (HQ is 9kms north on H1285), Tham Pla is a pleasant roadside halt (no charge at present). At KM92 a concrete lane to the right goes 2.2
Khunlumphraphat Rd. kms. Turn left at its conclusion in a T junction and right at the second T junction. Note the Ban Na Restaurant nearby en route to Pha Sua Falls (partly spoiled by a hydro-electric project). The asphalt road continues for 24 kms up to the Hmong village of Ban Na Pa Paek, offering some great views. Turn right for a dirt road to Mae Aw, a high plateau area for growing 8 Wat Hua Wiang 4 tea—6kms. Airport
Wat Phrathat 7 S By turning left at the second T junction Doi Kong Mu Rose Garden Tour Tourist Police 2 you can go to Mae Hong Son, rejoining H1095 Wat Huai To 6 3 at Km199. One kilometre before this junction Wat Phra Non an asphalt road south goes 18kms to Ban Nai 5 Wat Chong Klang Soi, from where you follow a dirt road (4WD - 1 2kms) to reach a Padaung refugee village (See Padaung Sidebar) 3 9 Up-market TN Tour 1 Imperial Tara Mae Hong Son $$$$ H108 KM194, 5 Tel: (0) 5361 1021-25 Fax: (0) 5361 1252 Bkk Res: (0) 2261 900 ext IR.
1 S Kat Kam Plaza (department store) Guest House to Mae Sariang www.budget.co.th 5 MAE HONG SON SECTION 3 : 164 kms. MAE SARIANG
outh of Mae Hong Son the road follows narrow valleys, MAE HONG SON to MAE SARIANG 6 climbing over low passes while following a route that 1068 S Huai Sua Thao MAE HONG SON runs along the foot of the high range to the east, a pattern ·¡àŒàÕß Õπ Nam Phiang Din Oliver Hargreave that continues south of Khun Yuam, where the road often ∫.πÈ”‡æ’¬ß¥‘π ∫.∑à“∫âÕß 1752 takes a tortuous route following narrow valleys. Tha Bong
For accommodation in this section see Section 2 Map The best side trips offer possibilities to climb high into for locations near Mae Hong Son and town maps for the hills to the east of the highway, while routes west from Khun Yuam and Mae Sariang. 108 Mae Sariang offer the best opportunity to see the River Salween (see sidebar). The first and most scenic of three Meo Microwave ∫.°≈“ß possible return routes to Chiang Mai begins in Khun Yuam, Ban Klang M Y A N M A R but may only be used by vehicles with 4WD (see section 4) ∫.À⫬‚ªÉß Huai Pong Mae Sariang is a district town that has been bypassed by the highway and by extensive modern development. The 938 narrow street and wooden buildings along the river bank have helped preserve some of the charm of an old river ∫. –‡ª ∫.·¡à ÿ√‘π route trading town. Ban Sape Mae Surin Mae Surin Falls From Mae Sariang, you may take Highway 108 east back Bua Thong (sunflower)fields over the mountains for a straightforward return to Chiang 7 Mai (section 4), or you may continue south along an equally ∫.µàÕ·æ Õ.¢ÿπ¬«¡ 1263 Ban To Phae KHUN YUAM ∫.ª“ßÕÿß scenic route following the Moei River. 24 Hrs Ban Pang Ung The Padaung — the Long Neck Karen 1056 ∫.‡¡◊ÕߪÕπ The Padaung are famous for their “long neck” women. N Ban Muang Pon The women do not have long necks as such, but have shoulders forced down by coils worn since they were 10kms 108 young. They may be seen in three villages; in a refugee 1818 ∫.ÀπÕß·Àâß camp in Ban Nai Soi (west from H1095 at KM199 — see Ban Nong Haeng end section 2), in Ban Huai Sua Tao and , perhaps most 1326 preferably, by boat from Ban Huai Dua (see H1250 from 1561 pointer 6). Foreigners must pay 250bht/head at any of the sites. Thais are free
Ban Mae La Luang to Mae Hong Son ∫.·¡à≈“À≈«ß 6 POINTER SIX H108 KM194 The junction of H1250 to km 104 1250 H Ban Huai Dua (see sidebar). to Huai Tara Sua Thao 108 to Huai Dua to Khum Yuam Õ.·¡à≈“πâÕ¬ 07:00-21:00 MAE LA NOI H1250 from Pointer 6 ∫.‚æ´Õ 1266 Pho So Ban La Up H1250 forks after 1km. The right fork first crosses the 1020 ∫.º“ªÿÑ¡ 1225 ∫.·¡à≈–Õÿ∫ River Pai and then bears left on a concrete lane. Signs for Y u a m Pha Pum Huai Sua Tao “long-necks” direct you to the Padaung vil- lage (currently 5 kms and 12 fords from the cement lane—a ∫.·¡àµÕ∫ Mae Top cement extension is under construction). Total distance 10 kms from H108 4WD! ∫. ∫À“π Sop Han The fork left (south) goes to Ban Huai Dua (4kms) 8 24 Hrs 1430 passing two riverside resorts en route. Charter a boat MAE SARIANG Mae Ho
S a l w e e n (500bht. for 2 hrs.) from Huai Dua for the two hour trip to Salween National Park HQ Õ.·¡à –‡√’¬ß ∫.·¡à‡À“–
1194 a Padaung village on the banks of the Pai River as well as ∫.∑“µ“Ωíòß 105 to Ban Phiang Din, a village downstream. Tha Ta Fang KM235. 100m past this marker a narrow, asphalt lane climbs steeply for 10 kms to a Hmong Village (Meo Micro- wave) and a microwave station at 1470m. Superb views, 6 www.budget.co.th especially if you walk north from the station. Allow 2 hours. to Mae Hong Son H 1263 to Mae Chaem (4WD!) village of Ban La-Ang Nua (41kms). 500m beyond Ban KHUN YUAM 108 To Mae Surin Falls N La-ang Nua you will come to a gravelled road heading 7 south to Ban Santitham (71kms — drum fuel), eventually 201 becoming H1270 to Ban Kong Loi (108kms).
ACCOMMODATION Ban Farang Guest House $ Khun Yuam • Mitr A Ree Guest House $$$ , Mae Sariang, Tel: (0) 5368 Tel: & Fax: (0) 5362 2085-6, H (0) 5361 1577 200 1109 Fax: (0) 5368 1280
Museum
Wat Huai To To the River Salween The simplest route is by H1194 from Mae Sariang to Mae Sam Laep (45kms) from where approx. 2 hour boat trips can be made south to the confluence of the Moei and to Pratu Muang Salween (650 bht.), or north to Tha Ta Fang (750 bht.). (4 kms) Nong Anne Until a bridge is built, to reach Mae Sam Laep itself you SHOPS Mitr Khun Yuam Hotel $$, Khun Yuam. must exit the sealed road after KM45 onto a track down to Tel: (0) 5369 1057, (0) 5362 2181 Wat To Phae H the river bed, double back, ford the river and enter the disused (airstrip) 199 lane on the opposite side of valley. H SHOPS Sumitra Hotel You can also stay a night at the National Park site over- looking the Salween near Tha Ta Fang (36kms by dirt road — 4WD!). Visit the Salween National Park HQ (08:30- 108 16:30) the day before to prearrange a park guide and buy Khrua Pik Mai your food in Mae Sariang before leaving. To reach the 07:00-23:00 Park HQ, go on H1194 to KM1 + 500m and then head straight west onto the cement lane at the corner. Turn left
24 at ornamental sign 400m after cement surface ends and drive 2kms to park HQ (4WD!)
Oliver Hargreave to Mae La Na
KM229 To fellow warriors, wish your souls to Mae Hong Son MAE SARIANG be blissfully in heaven. Roadside shrine to N Japanese victims of World War Two buried near this spot. 108
7 POINTER SEVEN Royal Foundation for H108 KM201. Intersection Wat Chai Lop Handicrafts 108 with H1263 to Mae Surin Rungthara to Surin Falls Mae Chaem 1263 Falls (37kms), Bua Thong km104 km201 Fields (26kms) & Mae 06:00-20:00
. Chaem (96kms) (See section d to Khun Yuam R
t
i
n
4 — all routes 4WD!) a bus station
h P Post Office
g n
e Fresh Market a M KM200-199 Khun Yuam Museum (08:30- L 16:30 daily. donation) houses Japanese war memorabilia including many photos. Khun to Mae Sam Laep Yuam high street begins south of the museum. 2 8 (section 4) (46 kms), 103 Salween National @ Take the concrete road bearing south-west ai Rd. Park iangm to Chiang Mai H Mitr A Ree Hotel W 1 H around a former landing strip south of the 1194 Lotus Hotel Renu 09:00-23:00 Museum to see Wat To Phae (4kms) — a Shan M temple known for its tapestry kept in a parti- Inthra 08:00-23:00 Wang Noi Guest House tioned room to the left of the entrance in the main vihara. H Kamolsorn Hotel Wat Suphan Rangsri Oliver Hargreave KM132 H1266 is a dirt road (4WD!) that goes to Ban La Up (25kms), a Christian Lawa 105 village known for its cloth weaving. For a 3 Mid-Range circular route to Ban Kong Loi on H108 at KM56 1 Mitr A Ree Guest House $$$ Tel: (0) 5368 1109 Fax: (0) 5368 1280 (do not attempt during rainy season — see Rustic section 4), continue to Ban Du La Poe (31kms) 2 Riverside Guest House & Northwest Guest House $ (& FAZ travel) and take the road up the ridge. At approx KM36 3 See View Guest House $, Mae Sariang Tel: (0) 5368 1556 take the right fork (lower road) to the Lawa (section 5) to Mae Sot (230 kms) www.budget.co.th 7 MAE SARIANG SECTION 4 : 190 kms. CHIANG MAI
MAE SARIANG to CHIANG MAI 107 Õ. —π∑√“¬ Õ. –‡¡‘ß 1685 1263 ∫.∫—«·°â« SAMOENG 7 Õ.¢ÿπ¬«¡ Bo Kaeo Doi Suthep-Pui SAN SAI ∫.·¡à “ National Park ∫.µàÕ·æ KHUN YUAM Pang Kia Mae Sa CHIANG MAI 1269 To Phae Ban Pang Ung Wat Phrathat 11 1056 ∫.ª“ßÕÿß Doi Suthep N ∫.‡¡◊ÕߪÕπ 13 Muang Pon ∫.À⫬∫ß 1550 Õ. “√¿’ Huai Bong ∫.À⫬µÕß 12 10kms Huai Tong Õ.À“ß¥ß SARAPHI 108 ∫.·¡àπ“®√ HANG DONG ∫.ÀπÕß·Àâß Mae Na Chon Ban Nong Haeng 1816 Sop Wak Õ. —πªÉ“µÕß 106 1326 1013 SANPATONG 1088 2590 1561 108 Doi Inthanon National Park ≈”æŸπ Mae Pan Falls Vachiratan Falls LAMPHUN Mae La Luang Õ.·¡à·®à¡ 1009 Õ.ªÉ“´“ß ∫.·¡à≈“À≈«ß MAE CHAEM 1192 PA SANG 1505 5 Mae Klang Falls 4 11 P i n g 1033 Õ.®Õ¡∑Õß Wat Phrathat CHOM THONG Wat Phraphuttabat Chom Thong Tak Pha Õ.·¡à≈“πâÕ¬ 07:00-21:00 La Ang Mae Yai Falls 2 MAE LA NOI 108 ∫.‚æ´Õ 1266 1750 Pho So Ban La Up ∫.ÀπÕßÕ“∫™â“ß 1020 ∫. —𵑠Nong Ap Chang ∫.º“ªÿÑ¡ 1225∫.·¡à≈–Õÿ∫ Fuel Ban Santi Õ.∫â“π‚Œàß Pha Pum 1270 BAN HONG 1184 ∫.·¡àµÕ∫ Om Khut Ob Luang National Park Mae Top Mae Aep Pong Lo 9 3 Lao Lee National Park HQ 1 ∫. ∫À“π 10 argreave Sop Han 8 ∫.·¡àµÕ∫ Õ.ŒÕ¥ HOT Wang Luang Falls
liver H ∫.·¡à‡À“– Kong Loi Bo Luang O Õ.·¡à –‡√’¬ß Mae Ho 1462 Salween National Park HQ MAE SARIANG 1012 106 1 Hod Resort $$ H108 KM4. Tel&Fax: (0) 5346 1070 Wat Bang Pang 1194 1103 Mai Takhian ∫.∑“µ“Ωíòß 105 2 Inthanon Riverside Resort $$$, (6kms east from Tha Ta Fang lights in Chom Thong), Lamphum. ∫.«—ßÀ≈«ß Ban Wang Lung S a l w e e n Tel: (0) 5323 3781-3 Fax: (0) 5325 1751 ∫.·¡àªÕ° 3 Krairas Resort $$ H108 KM17. Tel: (0) 5322 9285 Mae Pok ∫.·¡à “¡·≈∫ CM Off: (0) 5338 4542-3 Mae Sam Laep 4 Little Home Guest House $ H1009 KM7 Õ.¥Õ¬‡µà“ THUNG HUA CHANG Tel: (0) 1224 3446 Raft restaurants DOI TAO Õ.∑ÿàßÀ—«™â“ß 5 Navasoung Resort $$ H1192 KM19 1099 Õ. ∫‡¡¬ Tel: & Fax: (0) 5382 8477 SOP MOEI 6 Om Koi Guest Houe $$ H1099 KM50 7 Ban Nam Ngao Guest House $. H105 KM191 106 1214 Tel: (0) 5368 1188, (0) 5368 1956 Fax: (0) 5368 1353 7 E-mail
108 climbs to the Karen village of Ban Mae Ho at KM84, KM55-6 H1270 to the Mae Tho National Park (16kms) H crossing high valleys and cleared uplands that form and the Lawa village of Ban La Ang Nua (67kms) links up the upper headwaters of the Mae Rit River. After crossing with H1266 to Ban La Up (see section 3 KM128). the BoLuang Plateau, the route descends to follow a pretty valley route following the Mae Chaem River to Hot. KM39 South turn for Om Koi (50kms) and Mae Tun (138kms). Because there is only one way into these pine From Hot, H108 is a busy road heading north for Chiang forested uplands inhabited mainly by Karen, tourism has Mai, passing Chom Thong and Sanpatong, major district bypassed this area. Khun Ruj of Om Koi Resort, $ (turn towns en route. Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest peak, and right at cross-roads in Om Koi and drive 1km. Tel: (0) 1950 the National Park (see sidebar) may be visited by making a 7789) offers expert guidance to the local Karen hill tribe detour on highways 1088, 1009, or as part of the direct route culture. from Khun Yuam (see Khun Yuam to Chom Thong sidebar)
to Mae Chaem 9 to Khun Yuam 8 POINTER EIGHT POINTER NINE 1088 to Hot 108 H108 KM103 junction with H105 to Sop km22 H108 KM22 H1088 to Mae Chaem to to Chiang Mai (45kms). Take this route to approach Doi Mae Moei and South (see section 5 for routes to Mae Sariang Sariang 105 south and west from Mae Sariang) Inthanon National Park from the west, to Mae Sot and check out possibilities for “Ecotourist activities at the Reforestation Office at KM16. 8 www.budget.co.th KHUN YUAM TO CHOM THONG VIA DOI INTHANON. After 66kms the sealed road ends at a T junction, where 156kms 4WD only! you turn south (right) on the metalled dirt surface of what From Pointer 7, H1263 is a sealed road which goes 66kms purports to be Highway 1088 at approx. KM78. over a route that offers fine vistas over the mountainous The route descends on the rough, dusty dirt road for territory in this area. 5kms to Ban Mae Na Chon before reaching a pitted sealed surface approaching the village (KM72). Turn right (south) KM12-13. Turn north (left) on the road (asphalt 3kms at T junction in the village and go straight south to Mae only—4WD) for the steep climb to the Hmong village of Chaem on the mostly sealed road (very rough dirt road Ban U-Kho and the Bua Thong fields (the sunflowers bloom KM65-62!) mid Nov. to early Dec.— 6kms). You can enjoy fine views west on the route to the Mae Surin National Park at the Turn east (left) in Mae Chaem (KM46) and follow H1088 Falls (28kms). till KM45-44, where you take H1192 uphill to Doi Inthanon. Take care on the narrow and steep road as it climbs up H1263 climbs to KM20 (kilometre stones stop at this 20kms to a checkpoint (National Park Fee 200bht/adult) point), offering good views west near the top of the pass. and H1009 to Chom Thong at KM37-38. The Hmong Villages of Ban Pang Oung (KM23) and Bang Pang Kia (KM28 - fuel available) and the Karen village of Resorts in Chom Thong, Hot and Mae Chaem offer a Ban Huai Bong (KM19 from junction with H1088) lie along possible base for a night’s rest before a day’s exploration of the route. Mae Chaem and Doi Inthanon National Park (See Doi Inthanon sidebar)
KM17 Ob Luang Gorge National Park. Short walks con- to Chiang Mai 12 POINTER TWELVE nected by footbridges span the Mae Chaem River as it passes H108 KM10-11 junction with H1269 to through a narrow gorge. 1269 to Samoeng Samoeng. 108 10 POINTER TEN to Hot 108 Hot Clock tower to Mae H108 KM88/0 junction with H1012 for Sariag to 1103 Doi H1103 to Doi Tao 1012 Tao to Suan Dok to City 13 POINTER THIRTEEN
R to H11 H108 KM4-5 junction with Om KM59-60 Wat Phrathat Chom Thong temple Muang Rd. Welcome to Chiang Mai. to Airport to Hang Dong to Chiang Mai Airport Plaza 11 POINTER ELEVEN 108 to Doi Inthanon 1009 H108 KM57 junction with H1009 to Doi Inthanon and Mae Chaem (alternative
to Chom Thong route form Khun Yuam). to Mae Rim (section 1) 107 1. Wat Chiang Man CHIANG MAI 1 2. Wat Chedi Luang 3. Wat Phra Singh to Chiang Rai Doi Inthanon National Park 4 11 4. Wat Chet Yot 5. Wat Suan Dok 118 H1009 goes to the summit of Doi Inthanon (47kms), Three Kings Monument passing three major waterfalls; the Mae Yai Falls (KM1 to Doi Suthep south turn 13kms), Mae Klang Falls (KM7-8 south turn Arcade Oliver Hargreave 1km), Vachiratarn Falls (KM20 north turn & park), the bus station Carrefour Park HQ at KM31 (accommodation, visitor centre & S Kat Suan Kaew S permits for Kiw Mae Pan trail at KM42. Tel: (0) 5331 1 1608), the Royal Pagodas (KM40 west turn), and the M M summit (47kms). Access to the Mae Pan falls is from 3 5 2 H1192 KM6-7 (3kms 4WD). The national park entrance N N Train Station Makro S fee will give you access to all sites in the park for one 1006 M P I day. The park also runs a home-stay ecotourism N G
R bus station programme at KM26 (Tel: (0) 1881 7346 or (0) 1258 I
V Post Office E
6071) R M Fresh Market Airport bridged interchange intersection with lights 11 The following resorts are in good locations for an 13 Airport Plaza S one-way early start to explore Doi Inthanon: N Night Bazaar Little Home Guest House H1009 KM7 Tel: (0) TAT (0) 5324 8604, 1224 3446 (0) 5324 8607 Navasoung Resort H1192 KM19 Tel: & Fax: 108 Tel: (0) 5320 2871 S (0) 5382 8477 Lotus 106 to Chom Thong (section 4) to Lamphun (section 5) to Lampang
www.budget.co.th 9 MAE SARIANG SECTION 5 : 593 kms. CHIANG MAI VIA MAE SOT
he route south (section 4) MAE SARIANG to THOEN 106 T from pointer 8 3 1 1214 Õ.Õ¡°ãÕ¬ S a l w a e e n LI on H105 to Mae Sot Mae Ngao OM KOI Õ.¬“߇ªï¬π Õ.≈’È (232 kms) is remote Mid-Range National Park 1668 Ban Yang Piang Oliver Hargreave 1 Taweechai Resort and especially pictur- $-$$$ H105 1538 1087 Wat Wiang W a n g KM71 Tel: (0) 5553 checkpoint Kaeng Ko (boats) 18 esque as far as Mae Mae Ping 106 1287, (0) 5553 1569 National Park Salit (120kms), but do Fax: (0) 5553 3203 Bkk 4 Ban Thung Ko Õ.‡∂‘π Res: (0) 2656 5661 Fuel 1468 1099 THOEN not travel on this sen- 2 Suan Kamol Resort Ban Tha Song Yang Ko Falls $$ H105 KM20 ∫.∑à“ Õ߬“ß Mae Moei National Park 1102 sitive border route at Tel: (0) 5558 1451 Huai Khi Nok 1267 night. 5 ∫.·¡à ≈‘¥ 1886 Mae Salit MAE PHRIK ∫.·¡àµ◊Ëπ ∫.·¡à√–«“π 884 Rustic Mae Tun Mae Rawan Mae Sot has a 3 Ban Nam Ngao Guest House $. 105 Tham Usu (cave) ∫.·¡à‡™’¬ß√“¬ colourful morning H105 KM191 Tel: (0) 5568 1188, ∫.·¡àÕÿ ÿ Mae Chiang Rai (0) 5568 1956 Fax: (0) 5568 1353 market, jewellery Mae Usu E-mail
argreave spectacular, but slow highway. 3
Kwangtung (Chinese) Oliver H Comfortable, if not rustic, Restaurant guesthouse/resorts organise rafting, elephant and trekking tours to Morning market area City Hotels Karen villages, the Tilosu Falls and 2 DK $ Hotel Intakhiri Rd. Tel: (0) 5554 2648-9, (0) 5553 1699 105 Pornthep Hotel $-$$ Soi Sriwiang. Tel: (0) 5553 2590-4 1090 forest reserves. Advance booking to Moei River Bridge & Myanmar 3 recommended. Rafting/Trekking (Umphang area) Mid-Range Mae Sot Travel Centre SP Tour. Tel: (0) 5553 1409, (0) 5554 6121-3 1 Central Mae Sot Hill Hotel, $$-$$$ Asia Highway (H105 KM77-8) Fax: (0) 5553 2279 Bkk Off: (0) 2573 7942, (0) 2981 9991-2 Tu Ka Su Cottage - . Tel: (0) 5553 2601-8. Bkk Res: (0) 2541 1234 ex 4444 to Umphang Rooms in family sized bungalows. Tel: (0) 5556 1295. 14). The small Yuttahatti Pagoda is 1km down this road. If Umphang Hill Resort - $$$ proceeding to Bhumiphol Dam, keep going straight after Tel: (0) 5556 1063-4 or call SP Tour crossing river (KM54), crossing several lanes till you come in Mae Sot to a T junction with main road. Turn left for Dam (5kms) and right for H1 (14kms). to Chiang Mai (fast route) 16 POINTER SIXTEEN Lampang H1 Tak to Thoen 92kms - fast divided highway. The 1 to Sukhothai The junction of H1 and H12. Go west to H1107 Phitsanulok road to the Bhumiphol Dam (8th largest concrete arch dam (cross river 12 for H1107 to Ban Tak and rural route for alternative goes west at KM463. H1102 to Mae Phrik at KM490-1 route) to Bhumiphol Dam. Take Highway provides an alternative rural route to Thoen. 12 east for Sukhothai (see Budget’s to Mae Sot (H105) Bangkok ‘Chiang Mai-Sukhothai Loop’), or H1 18 POINTER EIGHTTEEN for the fastest route north. to Lampang to Bhumiphol Dam to Li, Lamphun H1 KM513-4 west turn for H106 to Li. Yuttahatti km31 106 1 Pagoda (1km) 17 POINTER SEVENTEEN After crossing the river, a south turn leads alternative route from 1175 to Thoen district town (4kms) and H1102 Mae Ramat H1107 KM30-31 termination of alterna- Wat Wiang (2kms) km513 along the west bank. Wat Wiang (2kms) 1107 tive route H1175 to Mae Ramat (pointer to Thoen to Tak to Ban Tak has one of only a few remaining classic northern-style vihara. to Thoen Tourism TAK Authority H106 Thoen to Lamphun (155kms) and Chiang Mai To Shrine of Thailand Ban of King Taksin (181kms) — see section 4 map. Beware of heavy trucks Beer the Great 16 Tak from the lignite 1107 Gardens to Chiang Mai LAMPHUN mine near KM36 on 12 106 N the bends between
P I Train Station N G KM12-29! At KM 47 R I V to Sukhothai E H1087 goes to the R Wooden House Sriphan Noodles 1 (09:00-15:00) Mae Ping National $ (see Chiang Mai- Park HQ (20kms), 4 1 Sukhothai Loop WCD) Ku Chang Ko Falls (42kms)
Footbridge K
(closed) U
A and the Kaeng Ko N Dao Khanong G Rapids (43kms).
Mid Range R I
2 V 1 Viang Tak Hotel $$ Mahat E Rafts accommodation
Thai Bamrung Rd. R Tel: (0) 5551 1910, (0) 5551 1950 available as well as Viang Tak 2 Hotel $$ 419 2 Oliver Hargreave boat trips on the Mae Chomphol Rd. Wat Phra Yeun Tel: (0) 5551 2686, (0) 5551 2507 Ping Lake. Advance Bkk Res: (0) 2511 2363 3 booking recom- City Hotels to Lampang 104 mended (Tel: (0) 5351 3 Suan Sin Garden Resort $ 114 Tel: (0) 5551 1102 Wat Phrathat Haripunchai N 9031). Sights in 4 Songwon Thai Hotel $ Taksin Rd: Wat Mahawan Tel: (0) 5551 1153 Lamphun include Wat 1015 National Museum Phrathat Haripunchai Tourism Authority of Thailand M to Sanpatong & Tel: (0) 5551 4341-3 Wat Chamadevi and Wat Chamadevi. Chid Chon Queen Oliver Hargreave 1 Restaurant Chamadevi Monument bus station & to Rung Market Sports 106 Stadium
to Mae Sot 105 to Kamphaeng Phet to Pasang www.budget.co.th 11 INSTRUCTIONS
Go this way Highway Number umbered pointers listed in sequence in the direction of travel show 4 important road junctions along the recommended route (reverse these if Pointer number N and direction 3 of travel travelling in the opposite direction). These are illustrated as follows.
Kilometre references are noted in Remember to always take drinking travel with enough cash baht to see two ways: water - allow for emergencies. Make you to the next ATM (at banks in main sure you have a torch, enough fuel, district towns — amphoe). Good hotel H107 KM13 = Highway 107 kilometre basic provisions and warm clothing rooms in provincial cities usually cost stone 13 is close to the point of before entering remote roads through 1000-1999 baht ( ), depending on focus mountainous areas. season. H107 KM98-9 = The point of focus lies 2000 Baht up between kilometre stones 98&99. Help us get it right! If you have 1000-1999 suggestions or wish to point out errors Kilometre stones are usually found 500-999 Baht in this guide, please advise our staff. at 1 or 2 km intervals on most num- less than 500 Baht bered highways. Though names are written in Thai, the highway number INFORMATION (top front face of stone) confirms your NATIONAL PARKS route in the absence of English signs. This guide is designed to complement regular guide-books. The Visitor centres at park HQs usually Background shading indicates offices of the Tourism Authority of have brochures with maps detailing points of interest/side trip/alternative Thailand (TAT — locations on city sights, though English language versions road along or off the recommended maps) at Chiang Mai and Tak can also may not always be available. There are route. provide very useful information and board maps and walking trails are H108* = Black stars by highway brochures. usually well-marked. numbers/along routes indicate rough Park accommodation can be patches where the sealed surface has ACCOMMODATION spartan, and is not well set up for walk- buckled/potholed and broken up. Be in trade unless you bring your own ready to slow right down frequently, Country resorts often occupy tent and food. Prior reservation from avoid driving faster than 60 kph! delightful settings offering rural the Forestry Department in Bangkok ambience with the convenience of is essential in the season. Tel: (0) 2579 4WD Only! If you are driving a chalet-rooms with fan/air-conditioning 7223, (0) 2579 5734, (0) 2561 4292-4 vehicle that does not have four wheel and hot shower (fridge and TV) in a ext. 724&725. drive, please do not take this road. garden setting near a central restaurant/ From August 2000 all foreigners are Though it is not usually necessary to reception area. In the high season — being charged 200 Bt./head entrance engage the 4WD itself, the higher November through April — advance fee, and this fee is being rigorously clearance and fortified suspension of booking is highly recommended, if not applied at most national parks along such vehicles make their use obligatory a must for the best places both in the the route in this guide. Hitherto charges on such roads. country and the city. were 40-50 Bt./vehicle and 20 Bt./head, Dirt Roads go all over the moun- Credit cards are usually only as it is for Thai citizens. tains of N. Thailand, but there are few accepted by larger resort/hotels — signs, even in Thai, and it is very easy to get disoriented. Main unsealed roads are all-weather, but in the rainy season À¬ÿ¥ most dirt roads will often have patches À¬ÿ¥ with deep mud ruts, glutinous mud that µ√«® clogs up the wheels and or moist compacted mud that is so slippery that STOP NO PASSING STOP (POLICE) chains are obligatory — under no CHECK circumstances venture onto dirt roads in the hills during the rainy season!
ithin Design 0 5327 2111
We recommend that you avoid dirt greave (
, Co Ltd. Graphics by W road, however, please drive very slowly travel consultant or call Budget: to avoid mechanical problems and to keep the dust down, especially when In the U.K.: 0541 565-656, In the U.S.: (800) 527-0700 passing people and communities. In Germany: 01805 244-388, In Australia: 1-300 362-848 In Singapore: 532-4442, In Thailand: 1-800-BUDGET 12
(c) all rights reserved. Compiled by Oliver Har for WorldClass Rent A Car for WorldClass