Fetler Yell North Roe Shetland Islands Muckle Roe Brae Voe Mainland

Foula Lerwick

Sumburgh

Fair Isle

Westray Sanday Rousay

Stronsay Mainland western isles Orkney Islands Kirkwall Shapinsay Scarpa Flow 26 Hoy South Ronaldsay 13.5 Distance Time Grade Refreshments Cape Island of Stroma 13.5km/8½ miles 4 hours Moderate 0 pubs/1 café Wrath Scrabster John O'Groats Castletown Durness Thurso Port of Ness Melvich Borgh Bettyhill Cellar Watten Noss Head Head Tongue Wick Walking along the Old Coffin Forsinard Road towards the beautiful Gallan PlanHead your Port nan Giuran Latheron beach at Luskentyre. route Unapool Altnaharra Kinbrace WESTERN ISLES Lochinver Scarp Helmsdale Hushinish Airidh a Bhruaich

Point Lairg Taransay Tarbert Shiant Islands Greenstone Point Scalpay Ullapool Bonar Bridge Harris Rudha Reidh Pabbay Dornoch Tarbat Dundonnell Ness Port nan Long Tain Gairloch Lossiemouth North Invergordon Alness Cullen Cromarty MacduŠ Fraserburgh BanŠ Uig Rona Elgin Buckie Baleshare Kinlochewe Garve Dingwall Achnasheen Forres Ronay Nairn Baile Mhanaich Torridon MORAY Keith Dunvegan TurriŠ 20 Peterhead Route Portree Inverness Aberlour Geirinis Lochcarron Huntly DuŠtown Is itRudha for me? Mostly Stromeferry Ellon Hallagro Kyle of Cannich traffic-free solid track; Lochalsh Drumnadrochit Rhynie Oldmeldrum read the feature Dornie Kyleakin HIGHLAND Grantown-on- Photo: Andy Beaven some sections of boggy Spey 18 Inverurie on page 83 spr ‘10 Invermoriston Alford Shiel Bridge path or quiet road. Aviemore

Suitable for reasonablyCanna Airor ABERDEENSHIRE Aberdeen his fascinating route track to Luskentyre (Losgaintir). Ardvasar Invergarry Kingussie Heaval Castlebayfit walkers, dogs on leadRum Newtonmore Vatersay Banchory explores the wonderfully After 200m on Tarmac, pass Laggan Ballater T 16 Braemar Sandray Stiles 2 Rosinish varied landscapes of the wild picnic tables and sheep pens to Arisaig Glen‘nnan Dalwhinnie Stonehaven Mingulay Spean Bridge Isle of Harris. It starts on the join a rough footpath for Berneray Start/parkingMuck Fort William east coast, which is so rocky another 200m. Just before Loch Small roadside car park SC TLAND ANGUS beside head of Loch 14 Onich and lunar that it was actually Glumradh Beag, turn L through Coll Ballachulish Glencoe Pitlochry Brechin Montrose Stockinish opposite Tobermory PERTH AND KINROSS Kirriemuir chosen as a stand-in for the an otherworldy landscape of Forfar Lochaline Portnacroish Aberfeldy Blairgowrie turn-offTiree for Lacklee, Dunkeld Planet Jupiter in the cult sci-fi heather and bare rocks: it’s no Coupar Angus Arbroath

grid ref NG126929 12 Ulva Craignure Connel Carnoustie Killin film ‘2001: A Space Odyssey’. wonder director Stanley Isle of Mull Moni‘eth Nearest town Tarbert Dundee Tayport Iona Dalmally The walk then crosses to the Kubrick chose this area for his Crianlarich Lochearnhead Newport RefreshmentsFionnpho Baysrt CrieŠ Perth -on-Tay Centre Café in Lacklee Bridge of Earn Cupar St Andrews west coast at Luskentyre, alien sci-fi classic ‘2001: A Space Luing Ardlui STIRLING Auchterarder Auchtermuchty 10 Inveraray Ladybank – variable opening times Callander Falkland Fife Ness unquestionably one of the Odyssey’. After 1km you reach Scarba Tarbet FIFE Strachur Kinross Public toilets None Dunblane Elie most beautiful beaches in houses at Ceann a’Bhaigh. Colonsay Lochgoilhead Bridge of Allan CLACKMANNAN Glenrothes Buckhaven Stirling Public transport None Lochgilphead Garelochhead Alloa Kirkcaldy Ardlussa Cowdenbeath Britain, where acres of Oronsay Dunfermline North Berwick Grangemouth ARGYLL & BUTE8 Helensburgh Denny Inverkeithing 2 EAST Dunbar smooth white sand are lapped 1.5km/1 mile Dunoon Gourock Alexandria Kilsyth Falkirk FALKIRK South Queensferry Maps Jura Linlithgow Edinburgh LOTHIAN Tighnabruaich Greenock Dumbarton Kirkintilloch Cumbernauld Haddington by turquoise waves. For many Turn R and follow a clear but INVERCLYDE NORTH Bathgate Musselburgh St Abb's Head Ordnance SurveyPo rt Askaig Tarbert Clydebank LANARKSHIRE RENFREWSHIRE Livingston Dalkeith Rothesay Airdrie WEST Kennacraig Paisley Shotts Bonnyrigg Eyemouth people, a journey to Harris is boggy path (with occasional Explorer 455; Johnstone Glasgow LOTHIAN Penicuik Islay Largs Motherwell 6 MIDLOTHIAN LandrangerRhinns Point 14 Millport Hamilton an epic undertaking, but when yellow-banded marker-posts) East Kilbride EAST Carluke Berwick-upon-Tweed Gigha RENFREWSHIRE NORTH AYRSHIRE Larkhall Lauder Primmill Kilwinning Strathaven Holy Island the walking’s this good, it’s as it climbs for 2km inland to a Port Ellen Killean Ardrossan Lanark Peebles Lesmahagow Coldstream Irvine Kilmarnock Biggar Galashiels Brodick Kelso well worth the effort. dramatic and cliff-lined pass Arran SOUTH Bamburgh Troon LANARKSHIRE

4 Holy Mauchline Selkirk By Andy Beaven. some 90m above sea-levelMalin Head Isle Prestwick Ayr Abington Campbeltown Cumnock BORDERS Jedburgh called BealachTory Island Eorabhat. This EAST New Cumnock Hawick Alnwick Rathlin Island AYRSHIRE 1 Start path isBloody known asHorn the Head Old Coffin Inishowen Mull of Kintyre Maybole Foreland Carndonagh Head Dalmellington MoŠat NORTHUMBERLAND Amble Park beside road at head of Road. Historically, crofters and Moville Portrush 2 Portstewart Ballycastle Girvan SOUTH Buncrana Bushmills AYRSHIRE Coleraine DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY Otterburn Loch Stockinish (written as fishermen who lived on east Ashington Morpeth Newbiggin- Aran Island Limavady Ballymoney Carsphairn by-the-Sea Cushendall Lochmaben Lockerbie Langholm Stocinis in Gaelic) opposite coast could not bury their dead Londonderry Ballantrae Bedlington Blyth Letterkenny LONDONDERRY New Dumfries ANTRIM 0 Ponteland Whitley Bay turn-off to Lacklee (Leac a Li). in rocky ground so carried them 0 Galloway

DONEGAL Dungiven Cairnryan km Longtown Gosforth

200 400 600 South Shields 800 metres Annan A signpost directs walkers on a along this path for burial in NORTHERN Newton Stewart Gretna Hexham Corbridge Newcastle upon Tyne Strabane Ballymena Castle Douglas Jarrow Ballybofey Maghera Stranraer Dalbeattie Brampton Gateshead Rossan Point Larne Sunderland Portpatrick Carlisle Washington Magherafelt Kirkcudbright Consett Stanley Castlederg Randalstown Wigton Killybegs Newtownstewart Whitehead Donegal Moneymore Antrim Carrickfergus Whithorn Alston Durham TYRONE Brandon Peterlee St John's Point Bangor Maryport Omagh Cookstown Drummore Donaghadee Burrow Spennymoor Ballyshannon Crumlin Holywood Head Penrith Hartlepool IRELAND Workington Cockermouth Bishop Auckland Bundoran Belfast Newtownards Appleby-in- Dungannon CarryduŠ Comber Keswick Westmorland Newton Redcar Lisburn AycliŠe Whitehaven CUMBRIA DURHAM Middlesbrough Balderg FERMANAGH Craigavon Lurgan Guisborough Brough Darlington Whitby Belmullet Easky Dromore Egremont Enniskillen Portadown Ballynahinch Killyleagh Stokesley Sligo Armagh Portaferry Ambleside Scotch Corner Robin Hood’s Bay Tandragee Banbridge Richmond Lisnaskea Andreas Windermere DOWN Downpatrick Coniston Monaghan ARMAGH Catterick Keady Ballaugh Ramsey Kendal Sedbergh Northallerton Ballycroy Ballina LEITRIM Castlewellan Leyburn Scalby SLIGO Newtownbutler Rathfriland Hawes Scarborough Clones MONAGHAN ISLE OF MAN MAYO Newry Newcastle Achill Peel Laxey Thirsk Pickering Ballybay Millom Ulverston Filey Island Castleblayney Kirkby Lonsdale NORTH YORKSHIRE Cootehill Warrenpoint Douglas Boyle Crossmaglen Grange-over- Ingleton Swinford Kilkeel Sands Ripon Malton Flamborough Port Erin Barrow-in-Furness Carnforth Easingwold Head Carrick-on-Shannon Cavan Castletown Bridlington Clare Castlebar Ballaghaderreen Carrickmacross Dundalk Walney Morecambe Settle Island Lancaster Westport Bailieborough Isle Heysham Dri“eld ROSCOMMON Knaresborough Inishturk LOUTH Harrogate Ballyhaunis CAVAN LANCASHIRE Skipton York EAST RIDING OF YORKSHIRE Castlerea Ilkley Wetherby Inishbo‘n Claremorris Ardee Fleetwood Pocklington LONGFORD Granard Garstang Keighley Market Inishark Longford Bingley Yeadon Tadcaster Leenane Colne Weighton Ballinrobe Kells Clitheroe Shipley Beverley Roscommon Blackpool Nelson Leeds Selby Drogheda Kirkham Burnley Bradford Garforth WEST YORKSHIRE Hull Clifden Lytham St Anne's Preston Todmorden Hessle Withernsea REPUBLIC Navan Halifax Castleford Tuam WESTMEATH Leyland Rawtenstall Brighouse Batley Goole Maam Cross Balbriggan Wake‘eld Pontefract Southport Hudders‘eld Mullingar Trim Skerries Chorley Spurn Head OF IRELAND MEATH Rochdale Hemsworth Thorne Scunthorpe Kilkieran GALWAY Rush Ormskirk Standish Bolton Bury Cleethorpes Athlone Formby GREATER MANCHESTER Barnsley Grimsby Swords Wigan Brigg Oldham SOUTH Galway Moate Malahide Penistone Doncaster Caistor Athenry Ballinasloe Crosby Salford YORKSHIRE Clara Maynooth DUBLIN MERSEYSIDE MANCHESTER Oranmore Lucan Carmel Head Bootle Stocksbridge Edenderry St Helens Sale Stockport Glossop Celbridge Wallasey Rotherham Bawtry OFFALY Tullamore Clondalkin Dublin Great Liverpool Warrington Gainsborough Inishmore Moelfre Birkenhead Cheadle Market Loughrea Gogarth Orme Prestatyn Altrincham Rasen Louth Tallaght Dun Laoghaire Colwyn Widnes She“eld Mablethorpe KILDARE Holyhead Anglesey Llandudno Wilmslow Whaley Ballyvaughan Banagher Kilcormac Bay Worksop Retford Inisheer Newbridge Naas Beaumaris Rhyl Runcorn Knutsford Bridge Dron‘eld Portarlington Bray Holy Island Llangefni Conwy Abergele Flint Staveley Gort Birr Kildare Frodsham Northwich Buxton Lincoln Mountmellick Monasterevin Bangor Chester‘eld Greystones CONWY Chester Middlewich Bakewell Horncastle Ingoldmells Bethesda FLINTSHIRE DERBYSHIRE Ollerton Winsford Congleton Mans‘eld LINCOLNSHIRE Ennistymon Portlaoise Caernarfon Llanrwst Denbigh Clay Cross Skegness Mountrath Mold CHESHIRE Biddulph Matlock CLARE Llanberis Betws- Ruthin Crewe NOTTINGHAMSHIRE Coningsby Roscrea LAOIS Athy WICKLOW Leek Alfreton y-coed DENBIGHSHIRE Wirksworth Ripley Newark-on-Trent Ennis Wicklow Wrexham Nantwich Kidsgrove Burnham Nenagh Abbeyleix Stoke-on-Trent Belper Hucknall Blaenau Ffestiniog Ruabon Newcastle- Sleaford Market Sheringham Rathdrum under-Lyme Ashbourne Ilkeston Boston Porthmadog Llangollen WREXHAM Nottingham Hunstanton Cromer Templemore Carlow Whitchurch Kilkee Castlecomer Bala Uttoxeter Stapleford Beeston Grantham Sutterton North Tullow Pwllheli Criccieth Ellesmere Stone Derby Kilrush Market Drayton Long Eaton Donington Walsham Happisburgh Arklow GWYNEDD Oswestry Fakenham Limerick Abersoch Wem STAFFORDSHIRE Burton upon Aylsham CARLOW Trent Holbeach Thurles Spalding Bardsey StaŠord Loughborough King's Lynn Bagenalstown Island SHROPSHIRE Ballybunion Kilkenny Gorey Dolgellau Ashby-de-la-Zouch Bourne TIPPERARY Barmouth Rugeley Melton Mowbray NORFOLK Rathkeale LIMERICK Newport Crowland KILKENNY Borris WEXFORD Mallwyd Shrewsbury East Caister-on-Sea Listowel Cannock Lich‘eld Coalville Oakham SwaŠham Cashel Callan Welshpool Telford LEICESTERSHIRE Stamford Dereham Norwich Newcastle West Tipperary Graiguenamanagh Tamworth RUTLAND Wisbech Great Thomastown Leicester Abbeyfeale Tywyn Walsall Downham Watton Wymondham Yarmouth Enniscorthy Machynlleth Wolverhampton Oadby Kilmallock Aberdy‘ Montgomery Hinckley Blaby Uppingham Market Charleville Cahir Blackwater Peterborough Attleborough Newtown Bridgnorth Nuneaton Market Lowestoft Tralee Church West Bromwich Oundle Wimblington Clonmel New Ross Stretton Dudley Harborough Bungay Beccles Castleisland Carrick-on-Suir POWYS Birmingham Corby Chatteris Llanidloes Stourbridge Littleport Brandon Thetford Mitchelstown Aberystwyth WEST MIDLANDS Bedworth Rothwell Sawtry Diss Dingle Wexford Llangurig Clun Kidderminster Kettering Ely KERRY Ludlow Solihull COVENTRY CAMBRIDGESHIRE Halesworth Kanturk Waterford Huntingdon Mildenhall Southwold Killorglin WALES Stourport- Bromsgrove NORTHAMPTONSHIRE Eye Knighton Rugby Brampton Mallow WATERFORD Rosslare on-Severn Leamington Spa Killarney Fermoy CEREDIGION Rhayader Redditch Wellingborough Rushden Warwick Waterbeach Bury St Edmunds Millstreet Tramore Aberaeron Llandrindod Presteigne Droitwich Daventry Saxmundham Newmarket Leiston Cahersiveen Dungarvan New Quay Tregaron Wells Leominster WARWICKSHIRE Northampton St Neots Stowmarket Valentia Island WORCESTERSHIRE SUFFOLK Aldeburgh Kington Bromyard Stratford Cambridge CORK Worcester upon Avon Bedford Stradishall Woodbridge Kenmare Builth Wells HEREFORDSHIRE Pershore Towcester Macroom Youghal Strumble Cardigan Lampeter Shipston- Newport Pagnell Cork Great Malvern Biggleswade Ipswich Midleton Head on-Stour BEDFORDSHIRE Sudbury Newcastle Hay-on-Wye Evesham Milton Keynes Royston Caherdaniel Fishguard Hereford Ledbury Banbury Brackley SaŠron Cobh Cloyne Emlyn Llandovery Felixstowe Mathry Tewkesbury Moreton-in-Marsh Letchworth Baldock Walden Buckingham Leighton Halstead Manningtree Harwich Brecon Hitchin Dunmanway St David's CARMARTHENSHIRE Stow-on-the-Wold Chipping Norton Buzzard Stevenage Bantry Bandon Ramsey PEMBROKESHIRE Ross-on-Wye Colchester Kinsale Carmarthen Llandeilo Bicester Braintree Dursey Island Bear Island Island Newgate Cheltenham Dunstable Luton Stansted ESSEX Crickhowell Abergavenny Gloucester BUCKINGHAMSHIRE HERTFORDSHIRE Clonakilty Haverfordwest St Clears Kidlington Ware Witham Brightlingsea Clacton-on-Sea Narberth Ammanford Monmouth GLOUCESTERSHIRE Witney Aylesbury Tring Skomer Milford Ebbw Brynmawr St Albans Skibbereen Island Merthyr Harlow Haven Tyd‘l Vale Blaenavon Carterton Oxford Wendover Chelmsford Neyland Kidwelly NEATH MERTHYR BLAENAU GWENT MONMOUTHSHIRE Stroud Hemel Hat‘eld Skokholm PORT TALBOT Aberdare TYDFIL Pontypool Lydney Cirencester OXFORDSHIRE Thame Hempstead Maldon Island Pembroke Tenby Llanelli Southminster Glyncorrwg TORFAEN Nailsworth Amersham RHONDDA Bargoed Abingdon Watford Barnet Clear Island Neath CYNON TAFF Chepstow Faringdon En‘eld Brentwood Swansea CAERPHILLY Cwmbran Rayleigh St Govan's Maesteg Tetbury Cricklade Didcot High Wycombe Chigwell SWANSEA Port Pontypridd Risca Newport Wantage Harrow Head Caldicot Wallingford Marlow Basildon Port Eynon Talbot Malmesbury Uxbridge GREATER LONDON Southend-on-Sea Caerphilly NEWPORT Henley BRIDGEND Swindon Maidenhead Canvey Island CARDIFF Avonmouth Slough LONDON Porthcawl Bridgend Woolwich Tilbury CardiŠ BRISTOL BERKSHIRE Windsor Dartford Sheerness Cowbridge Chippenham Reading Richmond Gravesend Margate VALE OF GLAMORGAN Bristol Staines Clevedon Corsham Avebury Hungerford Rochester Barry Marlborough Newbury Bracknell Kingston Congresbury Bath Melksham Sutton Chatham Ramsgate Croydon Sittingbourne Weston-super-Mare Devizes Woking Epsom Kingsclere Faversham Sandwich Trowbridge WILTSHIRE Camberley Caterham Maidstone Cheddar Leatherhead Basingstoke Aldershot Reigate Sevenoaks KENT Canterbury Deal Lynton Burnham-on-Sea Westbury Dorking Oxted Ilfracombe Lynmouth Frome Andover Whitchurch Guildford Redhill Tonbridge Lundy Minehead Wells Warminster Farnham SURREY East Ashford Dover Watchet Pilton HAMPSHIRE Godalming Glastonbury Amesbury Alton Grinstead Braunton Crawley Cranbrook Folkestone Bridgwater Street New Alresford Tunbridge Wells Barnstaple Mere Haslemere Tenterden Hythe Wilton Winchester Liphook Horsham Crowborough Wincanton New Romney Bideford South Molton Taunton SOMERSET Salisbury Billingshurst Haywards Heath Hartland Shaftesbury Peters‘eld Wellington Romsey Heath‘eld Rye Great Torrington Eastleigh Midhurst Pulborough Uck‘eld Ilminster Yeovil Sherborne EAST SUSSEX Battle Dungeness Southampton WEST SUSSEX Hurstpierpoint Tiverton Crewkerne Lyndhurst Havant Arundel Chard Blandford Forum Fareham Chichester Lewes Hailsham Hastings Bude Ringwood Hythe Worthing Hove Bexhill Holsworthy Brockenhurst Gosport Newhaven Crediton Honiton Axminster Wimborne Minster Bognor Brighton Lymington Regis Littlehampton Eastbourne Okehampton Bridport DORSET New Milton Portsmouth Seaford Exeter Seaton Dorchester Cowes Boscastle Poole Newport Ryde Selsey Lyme Bournemouth Tintagel DEVON Sidmouth Regis Wareham ISLE Launceston Freshwater OF WIGHT Exmouth Weymouth Swanage Shanklin Dawlish Ventnor Padstow Wadebridge Tavistock Teignmouth Fortuneswell Ashburton Newton Abbot Bodmin Buckfastleigh Portland Bill Liskeard Torquay Newquay CORNWALL Saltash Totnes Paignton Plymouth St Austell Looe Torpoint Brixham Plympton Dartmouth St Agnes Fowey Truro Kingsbridge Redruth St Ives Salcombe Camborne St Mawes St Just Falmouth Penzance Sennen Helston Land's End Lizard Scilly Isles western isles luskentyre 26 Buy maps at www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/mapshop

Ordnance Survey mapping ©Crown Copyright in association with Memory-Map/Bauer Media’s Media Licence number AM86/09

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softer soil on west. At high another 1km before turning R turn R on to footpath that point of pass you catch your along old road beside Abhainn heads west for 600m, giving first glimpse north-west to Lacasdail stream. For 2km, stupendous views over Loch beautiful beach at Luskentyre. path climbs gently, passing Stockinish to south and Follow first path, then track, cottage and a series of small Bealach Eorabhat to north- past a small loch then a series lochs. Carry on for further 1km, west. Pass through gate then of cairns for just over 2km past an active quarry (signs turn L for final few hundred down to a T-junction. warn when blasting is metres back to start. imminent), then rejoin A859. 3 5.5km/3½ miles Turn R on Tarmac track for 4 10.5km/6½ miles roughly 1km to join A859 Turn R for just under 1km along beside beach. Luskentrye is road, then R again on road designated as a Site of Special signposted to ‘Stockinish’ Scientific Interest because of which zig-zags down through wide range of habitats between amazing landscape for 1km coast and hills: sandflats, (even though you’re walking on Route created using saltmarsh and machair (the a road it’s very quiet and Memory-Map V5 Northern Scotland – OS 1:50,000 grassy sea-meadows that surrounding landscape feels Contact 0844 811 0950 bloom in summer with colourful wild and strangely foreign). www.memory-map.co.uk wild flowers). Follow road R for Beside Loch Airigh Iain Oig, © Country Walking Spring 2010