Fast-Forward to Fall Produce
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1 September 26, 2019 OFFICIAL NEWSLETTERPark Slope FoodOF Coop,THE Brooklyn,PARK SLOPE NY FOOD COOP Established 1973 Volume NN, Number 19 September 26, 2019 Fast-Forward to Fall Meet Early Bird David Produce St. Germain: Park Slope By Hayley Gorenberg Food Coop Traffic Cop ith the Coop produce and Unsung Hero Waisle on the seasonal cusp, our buyers and shoppers bid adieu to local specialties and look ahead to fall features. Here are some highlights. Honeynut Squash Honeynut squash burst onto the scene just a few years ago. The petite squash “wouldn’t exist without a confrontation,” according to Bon Appetit, which relates that ten years ago Stone Barns Center’s farm director, David Barber, invited a group of plant breeders from Cor- ILLUSTRATION BY TOMMY KANE nell University to Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills, ble a miniaturized butter- of flavor, rivaling wine-tasters PHOTO BY ROD MORRISON New York. “After the meal, nut. They are touted for “an for vocabulary, counterbalanc- “It’s like juggling trucks,” says David St. Germain, who is Barber took breeder Michael intense natural sweetness that es the Park Service’s descrip- responsible for expediting dozens of deliveries that come Mazourek for a kitchen tour, becomes rich, caramel-y, and tion of the fruit as having “the into the Coop each day. grabbed a butternut squash almost malt-like when roasted ungainly appearance of a small and said: ‘If you’re such a good at high heat,” and one need not green potato.” By Taigi Smith place would be working the breeder, why don’t you make peel their thin skins. here are countless 4 a.m.–1 p.m. shift, five days this thing taste good?’” Planted in May and harvest- “The flavor of pawpaw fruit is Tunsung heroes at the per week. Mazourek brought mini- ed in early fall, honeynuts are PSFC, and David St. Germain If you are sleepwalking squashes he’d been trying green until they ripen to a deep often compared to bananas, is one of them. An early bird or coming home from a late to perfect to Barber, and the honey color. but with hints of mango, at heart, David gets up at night out and walk past the pair focused on the top flavor vanilla, and citrus.” the crack of dawn to handle PSFC at 4 a.m., you’ll see contenders. “The way Barber Pawpaws the massive deliveries that David taking in the dozens cooked the honeynuts was Coop Produce Buyer Cecilia Clustering on a relative- arrive like clockwork at the of deliveries that arrive each eye-opening to Mazourek— Rembert plumps for the paw- ly small tree (or perhaps tall Coop every morning. When day. “It’s like juggling trucks. before, he and other breeders paw, “the largest native North shrub), the pawpaw fruits he first started working, Coop Today we’ve had five trac- microwaved or steamed big American fruit!” The Nation- result only when pollination old-timers told him, “You’ll tor trailers, six to eight box batches of squash at low heat al Park Service is a fan: “One from a distinctly different paw- find your place here.” Look- trucks, we have FedEx, vans, in a casserole pan with water, of the tastiest late-season paw occurs. Pawpaw “patches” ing back, he had no idea his CONTINUED ON PAGE 3 adding moisture and diluting rewards for hikers and wildlife are often genetically identical flavor,” according to Bon Appe- alike is the pawpaw fruit, which plants springing from the same Next General Meeting on October 29 tit. “Barber dry-roasted them begins to ripen in late summer underground root system. The General Meeting of the Park Slope Food Coop is held on at high heat, caramelizing the and peaks in September and Since pawpaws are “self-in- the last Tuesday of each month. The October General Meet- interior so it didn’t need brown October. The flavor of paw- compatible” and can’t self-pol- ing will be on Tuesday, October 29, at 7:00 p.m. at John Jay sugar, maple syrup, or any- paw fruit is often compared linate, flies, beetles and other Educational Campus, 227 Seventh Ave., between Fourth thing other than the squash’s to bananas, but with hints of pollinators may have to travel and Fifth Sts. natural sweetness.” mango, vanilla, and citrus.” from patch to patch for fruit For more information about the GM and about Coop Six-inch honeynuts resem- The rhapsodic description CONTINUED ON PAGE 2 governance, please see the center of this issue. Thu, Oct 3 • Food Class: Classic Pie 7:30 p.m. IN THIS ISSUE Fri, Oct 4 • Film Night: Knock Down the House 7:00 p.m. Will Draw for Food (and Workslot Credit)..................4 Labor Committee Report...............................5 Coop Tue, Oct 8 • Plow-to-Plate Movie Series: Horoscope...........................................7 A Prayer for Compassion 7:00 p.m. Welcome ............................................ 9 Event Governance Information, Mission Statement .............. 9 Fri, Oct 11 • Wordsprouts: Calendar of Events ...................................10 Highlights All the Restaurants in New York 7:00 p.m. Letters to the Editor .................................12 Safe Food Committee Report ..........................14 Look for additional information about these and other events in this issue. Classifieds ..........................................15 Exciting Workslot Opportunities........................16 Read the Gazette while you’re standing on line OR online at www.foodcoop.com 2 September 26, 2019 Park Slope Food Coop, Brooklyn, NY Fall Produce soon patented Starkrimson, a greens. TheKitchn.com touts CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 tart pear whose ripeness may versatile, thick-leaved greens be judged by its color, rather cooked so that “each bite to result. And humans are not than feel (in contrast to pears bursts with flavor and texture,” the only pawpaw enthusiasts. like d’Anjou). potentially steamed, sautéed, “Opossums, foxes, squirrels, Oregonlive.com cautions stewed or braised, “served on raccoons, and birds are all that “a Starkrimson pear with a their own, as a side dish, or known to enjoy pawpaw fruit.“ hint of softness at the surface is incorporated in tacos, burritos, most likely total mush inside. It pizza, soups, stews.” Starkrimson Pears ripens from the inside out, so Braising means cooking in Mutant pears appear on you need to eat this pear while both fat and liquid. Bacon/pork “sport” tree branches but rare- still firm.” fats are traditional in many cul- ly taste good. But according tures, but cooks may choose to Oregonlive.com, “in the Braising Greens duck fat, butter, or vegetable early 1950s, a branch of bright Chock-a-block with nutri- oils. Liquids range from chick- red pears growing on a green ents, braising greens include en or beef broths to white wine pear tree in Missouri beat the bok choy, chard, collards, kale, or simply water. Commonly one odds.” Stark Brothers Nursery mustard, radicchio, and turnip heats the fat before adding the greens and liquid and cook- ing till the latter evaporates. Amounts of liquid and any added salt vary depending on volume and types of greens. PHOTOS BY ZACHARY SCHULMAN Cheddar Cauliflower Much of the Coop’s Fall produce will come from Hepworth For some people cauli- Farms and Lancaster Fresh Farm Cooperative. Above, flower in the fall requires a Receiving Coordinator and Produce Buyer Ken Macdonald cheddar-cheese swaddle. A reviews a recent delivery. typical recipe directs to driz- zle florets with oil and salt apples; and organic and local Midwest “Rootabaga country,” and roast till lightly browned, IPM Asian pears. many told by the Potato Face sprinkle with shredded ched- Taking her cue, Coop mem- Blind Man of the Village of Liv- dar, and return to the oven till bers can look forward to local er-and-Onions. the cheese melts. Brussels sprouts, organic heir- This versatile brassica (or loom apples, local Concord cruciferous) vegetable sprang Edamame Hummus grapes, local horseradish, forth from crossing the cabbage Popular in the pod or out, pumpkins (both cooking and and the turnip. The roots may edamame have additional display), parsnips, rutabaga, be eaten after boiling, steam- range. A food processor facil- black radishes, local daikon ing, roasting, baking or frying. itates edamame hummus: radishes and local leeks. Some treat the leaves as a leafy Blend the beans, tahini, water, vegetable. Round, brownish lemon juice, lemon zest, garlic, Rutabaga rutabagas are touted for being salt, pepper and a little olive Call it a “swede,” “neep” or extremely nutritious and high oil until smooth. Garnishes “snagger”—or find it labeled in in antioxidants. Thank you for your cooperation. include sesame seeds or fla- the Coop as a “rutabaga.” vored oils. The vegetal name capti- Horseradish Rembert’s autumnal cornu- vated author Carl Sandburg, “What 3,000-year-old plant copia spills over with organic who originally wrote Rootaba- has been used as an aphrodi- The Animal Welfare Committee local broccoli rabe; California ga Stories for his own children, siac, a treatment for rheuma- Thompson seedless grapes; later publishing these whimsi- tism, a bitter herb for Passover Seeks New Members! integrated pest management cal American fairytales in the seders, and a flavorful accom- apples from Hepworth Farm, 1920s. Sandburg included his paniment for beef, chicken, Join our small research- and education-based committee to help Champlain Orchards and Lan- daughters’ nicknames: “Spink,” and seafood?” Horseradish. provide animal-related reference materials, articles, workshops, and caster Farm Fresh Coopera- “Skabootch,” and “Swipes” in org provides the eponymous product suggestions as they relate to Coop