how-to

— Two Top Front (A) y With right sides and bias — One Top Back (C), on fold band sandwiched between layers, armhole facing to armhole. — Two Side Back Interfacing [D] corners of allowances where — Two Band (G) necessary in order to reduce bulk. — Two Front Neck Facing (H) Clip seam allowances around armhole — One Back Neck Facing (I), on fold and fold facings inside dress. Press in place. Repeat with other armhole — Two Front Armhole Facing (J) facing. — Two Back Armhold Facing (K) u With right sides together, stitch 3 From the Accent fabric, cut: right side seam of Skirt closed. Press — Two 4" strips straight of , from seam allowances open. selvedge to selvedge. Stitch together i With right sides facing and aligning and cut to the following length for center front/center back and side Belt, with seam at center back: XS - seam(s), stitch Skirt to Top, evenly go through the seam allowance of the 65", S - 70", M - 75", L - 80", XL - 85". distributing/gathering the fullness of waistline. — Bias strips, 1 3⁄8" wide, to make a the skirt to the width of the waistline. - total of approximately 5 yd of bias With right sides facing and bias Serge or all layers together to band (generously measured) band sandwiched between Button Band prevent them from fraying. Tip: If you and Top, stitch Button Band to Front want a very clean looking inside, you PREPARE THE MATERIALS Top, starting at the seam allowance may also bias-bind the waistline seam 4 Fold and very lightly press two of the and sewing all the way allowances. down through the seam allowance of yards of the prepared bias strips in half o Stitch invisible into open left waistline. lengthwise, right side of fabric facing side seam, between notches. Close out (skip this step if you use = Press Button Band toward center remaining sideseam of skirt and press ready-made bias band). front, with seam allowances pointing seam allowances open. 5 Apply fusible interfacing to wrong toward button band. Fold Button across upper and lower end of zipper side of all Facings, Button Bands, and Band lengthwise, right sides facing. to fix them and give support to these corresponding Top pieces, following Carefully stitch seam along neckline areas. closed, beginning at the (remaining) the manufacturer’s instructions. p With right sides together, stitch seam allowance of the Button Band. 6 Serge or zigzag all raw edges along unfolded bias band to lower raw Clip corner of seam allowance and fold side and shoulder seams, and around edge of Skirt, using a 1⁄4" – 1⁄2" seam Button Band inside out. the edges of the facings that will be allowance. Fold bias band toward visible inside the dress. q On the wrong side of the top, fold wrong side of Skirt to cover the raw remaining seam allowance of button edge. Press in place. From the right ASSEMBLE THE DRESS band toward inside, barely covering side, stitch in the ditch to hold bias 7 Stitch all darts closed. Press darts the seamline. Press in place. Baste, if band in place. on the front flat and darts on the necessary. [ Check placement. backside toward center back. w Topstitch button band about 1⁄8" Adjust, if necessary. Note: Remember 8 Close shoulder seams of Top pieces, away from each edge. Begin and end that a button should sit at the widest Neck Facings, and Armhole Facings at the seam allowance of the waist, part of your bust to prevent gaping. and press seam allowances open. pivoting at the corners. Stitch in place. Stitch on 9 With right sides together, stitch e Repeat Steps 11–14 with other according to buttonholes. Front Neck Facing to Top Front. Clip Button Band. ] Fold fabric strip for Belt in half seam allowances and cut corners of r Stitch right sideseam of top closed lengthwise. Press lightly. Fold seam allowances where necessary to and close about 5" of left side seam at raw edges toward center fold, like reduce bulk. Fold Facing inside dress underarm, following notches. Leave you would fold a bias band. Press. and press in place. Understitch Neck the remaining sideseam unsewn and With right sides facing, stitch short Facing. press seam allowances open. edges closed. Clip corners of seam 0 Baste bias band to one side t Stitch side seams of armhole allowances and fold strip inside out of each Button Band (to left side facings closed. Press open. Baste again. Topstitch about 1⁄8" away from of underlapping and right side of folded bias band to seam allowance long edges, closing the strip. overlapping Button Band), with raw of armhole facings with raw edges \ Embellish the dress by adding the edges aligning and bias band on top of aligning. Begin and end under the arm, design of your choice to the Button Band. Make sure to start at the where it is less visible. skirt. seam allowance of the neckline and

96 stitch