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On the Structure of Multi-Thread Bouclé Yarn

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On the Structure of Multi-Thread Bouclé Yarn On the Structure of Multi-thread Bouclé Yarn A thesis submitted by Malek Alshukur In fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Heriot-Watt University School of Textiles and Design Galashiels, February 2017 “The copyright in this thesis is owned by the author. Any quotation from the thesis or use of any of the information contained in it must acknowledge this thesis as the source of the quotation or information” ACADEMIC REGISTRY Research Thesis Submission Name: MALEK ALSHUKUR School/PGI: School of Textiles and Design Version: (i.e. First, Degree Sought (Award Resubmission, Final) and Subject area) Declaration In accordance with the appropriate regulations I hereby submit my thesis and I declare that: 1) the thesis embodies the results of my own work and has been composed by myself 2) where appropriate, I have made acknowledgement of the work of others and have made reference to work carried out in collaboration with other persons 3) the thesis is the correct version of the thesis for submission and is the same version as any electronic versions submitted*. 4) my thesis for the award referred to, deposited in the Heriot-Watt University Library, should be made available for loan or photocopying and be available via the Institutional Repository, subject to such conditions as the Librarian may require 5) I understand that as a student of the University I am required to abide by the Regulations of the University and to conform to its discipline. * Please note that it is the responsibility of the candidate to ensure that the correct version of the thesis is submitted. Signature of Candidate: Date: Submission Submitted By (name in capitals): Signature of Individual Submitting: Date Submitted: For Completion in the Student Service Centre (SSC) Received in the SSC by (name in capitals): Method of Submission (Handed in to SSC; posted through internal/external mail): E-thesis Submitted (mandatory for final theses) Signature: Date: [ii] Abstract This research had two dimensions. The first one was theoretical and the geometry of doubled fancy yarn, including bouclé yarn, was modelled mathematically. As a result, the length of the effect component that is necessary to make a copy of those types of fancy yarn was estimated. Further, a geometrical model for the width of the effect- thread helices in the First Spinning Zone was presented. One important benefit of this model was using it to control the structure of the bouclé yarn and to prevent the formation of faults and loops on the bouclé yarns. The second dimension was experimental. The mathematical, geometrical model of doubled fancy yarn was tested and the coefficient of correlation between the predicted values and the actual values was r=0.90. This was accomplished by providing methods and roadmaps to help making copies of the bouclé and semi-bouclé fancy yarns after using the output of the geometrical model of the structure. Further, it was found that the technological factors which affected the bouclé yarn structure and geometry were the bending stiffness of the effect thread(s), the rotational speed of the hollow spindle, the level of Tension of the core thread, the overfeed ratio, the number of wraps, and the interaction between those factors. Furthermore, when narrow effect helices have formed in the First Spinning Zone, the thickness of the effect thread was as important as its bending stiffness. To measure the bending stiffness of the input threads, the Beam Method was applied using a simple apparatus, called the Bending Frame, which was built for this purpose. [iii] Dedication اﻹهداء To my father, mother & siblings and أقدم إنجازي العلمي هذا ﻷبي أحمد و أمي حياة their families. و إخوتي و أخواتي نوال و يامن و محمد و نور و علي و عبير و يوسف و أسرهم. To all those who gave me support while doing my PhD. To my friends in my hometown, in وأيضاً أهدي هذا اﻹنجاز ﻷصدقائي و أصحابي Syria, and in other countries. في سوريا وبقية الدول العربية ، و زمﻻئي مهندسي الغزل و النسيج المسالمين في سوريا أو To my fellow Syrian textile engineers خارجها. who studied textile engineering with me at Damascus University (Syria). To all my friends and colleagues at و أهدي هذا العمل إلى كل الذين وقفو بجانبي و Heriot-Watt University منحوني تمنياتهم الطيبة سواء أكانو في سوريا أو خارجها. To all my friends whom I met in the UK مالك الشكر Malek Alshukur [iv] Acknowledgments I wish to express my gratitude to Dr. Alex Fotheringham (First Supervisor half the way through my research), Dr. Lisa Macintyre (First supervisor for the second half of this research), and Dr. Danmei Sun (Second Supervisor for the second half of this research) for their support, guidance and patience and the feedback and comments they gave me while I was doing my PhD. I also would like to thank Dr. Hugh R Gong (Second Supervisor half the way through my research) from School of Materials at The University of Manchester for his guidance at the beginning of this research. His suggestion to do an analytical study was so valuable to me and it made a profound positive impact on this research and improved its rigour tremendously. I also would like to thank Dr. Daniil Yurchenko from the Institute of Mechanical, Process and Energy Engineering of the School of Engineering and Physical Science (at Heriot-Watt University) for suggesting new ideas which helped me understand the spinning geometry and the dynamics of the manufacturing process of multi-thread fancy yarns on hollow spinning machines. I would like to thank to Dr. Samuel Edgecome for introducing the Wolfram MathWorld website (http://mathworld.wolfram.com/) which helped me complete the integrations of the geometrical model of multi-thread fancy yarns. I also thank British Council and all its staff, in particular Timothy Stobbs (UK) and Nada Youssef (Syria), for their help and support during all stages of my scholarship, in particular for their help when my scholarship was affected because of the war in my country, Syria. Finally, I would like to thank Prof. George Stylios and Heriot-Watt University and all its staff for their support and understanding to the special circumstances which affected me as a Syrian student at Heriot-Watt University. [v] About the Author Qualifications: The author studied textile engineering at the Department of Mechanical Engineering of Textile Industries and their Technologies which is part of the Faculty of Mechanical and Electrical Engineering of Damascus University (Syria) and graduated in 2006. He also studied MSc in International Business Management at the Higher Institute for Administrative Development (HIAD) of Damascus University (Syria) in 2008. Following this, he was awarded a Master’s Degree in Textiles from Heriot-Watt University (UK) in 2012. Publications: The author has the following peer-reviewed articles: 1. Alshukur, M. and Gong H., Structural Modelling of Multi-thread Fancy Yarn, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, accepted. 2. Alshukur, M and Sun D., Investigating the effect of the core thread tension on structure and quality properties of multi-thread bouclé yarn, Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, Vol. 41(4), pp. 367-372. 3. Alshukur, M. and Fotheringham, A., Quality and Structural Properties of Multi-thread Fancy Yarn by Using the Design of Experiments, Journal of the Textile Institute, V. 106 (5), pp. 490-502, 2015. 4. Alshukur, M., Textiles and the Textile Research and Industries in the Twenty-first Century. Journal of Textile Science & Engineering 2014. S2: 005. 5. Alshukur, M. and Fotheringham, A., Role of False Twist in the Manufacturing Process of Multi-thread Fancy Yarn on Hollow Spindle Spinning Machines, Journal of the Textile Institute, V. 105 (1), pp. 42-51, July 2013. 6. Alshukur, M. The Quality of Fancy Yarn: Part II: Practical Experiments and Application, International Journal of Textile and Fashion Technology (IJTFT), Vol. 3(1), pp. 25-38, March 2013. 7. Alshukur, M. The Quality of Fancy Yarn: Part I: Methods and Concepts, International Journal of Textile and Fashion Technology (IJTFT), Vol. 3(1), pp. 11-24, March 2013. [vi] Work Experience: The author worked as a Production Engineer for the textiles industry in Syria for a year. He also worked as a Technician for the Department of Mechanical Engineering of Textile Industries and their Technologies (Damascus University) for a year, then became a Reader (Lecturer Assistant) at the same department for a year. [vii] Glossary of Terms for this Research There are several terms used in this research which are generic, while some others may have more than one term to describe the same thing. Term Definition or Description Back-doubling ( in (1) The process of forming a continuous fibre ring in the groove of a rotor spinning) rotor where a thin layer of individual fibres is deposited in the rotor groove for each revolution of the rotor. (2) The number of fibres formed by the aforementioned process [1]. Beam Bending Also known as Euler-Bernoulli beam theory, engineer’s beam theory Theory or classical beam theory. A theory that provides a means of calculating the load-carrying and deflection characteristics of beams. Bending stiffness also known as flexural rigidity, bending rigidity or flexural stiffness; a term which relates the curvature of bending (i.e. the amount of bending deformation) to the internal force which causes it (i.e. the bending moment) in a linear relationship. The bending stiffness (B) is the product of Young’ modulus (E) of bent material and the second moment of area (I) of the same bent material about the axis of bending; i.e.: B=EI [2]. Binder of fancy This component is the third component of most types of fancy yarn.
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