: How to Knit Entrelac Plus 6 Free Entrelac Knitting Patterns Entrelac Knitting: How to Knit Entrelac Plus 6 Free Entrelac Knitting Patterns

ENTRELAC IS A KNITTING TECHNIQUE and then goes beyond the basics to show you how THAT’S USED TO CREATE FABRIC THAT to knit entrelac in the round. LOOKS LIKE IT’S WOVEN. The patterns include an easy scarf pattern, darling The fabric is knitted in interlocking rectangles and entrelac felted bags, some really interesting and triangles; stitches are picked up and knit from the fun mitts, a lovely shrug, a flattering tee, and some edges of previously knit sections. truly amazing socks. Entrelac can be knit flat or in the round, in Have fun learning entrelac and knitting these stockinette or garter stitch, in one color or in fabulous free patterns! multiple colors. It’s a very versatile stitch pattern! Cheers, In this free eBook, we’re going to teach you how to work entrelac, and then supply you with a few patterns that’ll really get you going! We begin with an in-depth tutorial by Eunny Jang, Kathleen Cubley which shows you the basics of entrelac knitting Editor, KnittingDaily.com

Contents ENTRELAC KNITTING: HOW TO KNIT ENTRELAC PLUS 6 FREE ENTRELAC KNITTING PATTERNS Entrelac: Knitting Block by Block by Eunny Jang...... PAGE 3 A Knitting Daily eBook edited by Kathleen Cubley The Basic Entrelac Scarf by Lisa Shroyer...... PAGE 8 EDITORIAL STAFF EDITOR, KNITTING DAILY Kathleen Cubley

CREATIVE SERVICES Felted Entrelac Key Fobs by Susan Pierce Lawrence...... PAGE 13 PRODUCTION DESIGNER Nichole Mulder and Janice Tapia Reservoir Mitts by Allyson Dykhuizen...... PAGE 16 PHOTOGRAPHY As noted ILLUSTRATION Gayle Ford Projects and information are for inspiration Cochin Shrug by Eunny Jang...... PAGE 19 and personal­ use only. Interweave Knits and Knitting Daily do not recommend, approve, Curvy Squares Tee by Bonnie Paul...... PAGE 25 or endorse any of the advertisers, products,­ services, or views advertised in this publication. Nor does Knits or Knitting Daily evaluate Entrelac Socks by Eunny Jang...... PAGE 30 the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evalu­ ­ating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised­ in Knits or Knitting Daily.

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BY EUNNY JANG

ntrelac is a knitting technique that produces a fabric with a woven appearance—tiers of tilting blocks appear to run over and under each other. But the fabric is actually worked all in one piece as a series of interconnecting rectangles. Also called Epatchwork knitting, knitting, or birch-bark patterning, entrelac can stand on its own in garter or stockinette stitch, or it can provide an interesting framework for other texture or color-work techniques.

See the sock pattern on page 30.

WORKING ENTRELAC IN a piece with straight rather than pointed edges across the bottom and top, the first and last tiers must consist of rows of triangular Basic principles half-blocks. For straight vertical edges, every other tier of a flat- Entrelac fabric’s series of tilted blocks are worked one at a time worked entrelac piece begins and ends with a triangle. in tiers. Within a tier, blocks are worked in the same direction, Individual blocks may be worked over any number of either right to left or left to right. Each tier of blocks builds stitches, and a piece may have any number of individual blocks. upon the one below it. Individual blocks are worked by picking In all cases, each block contains twice as many rows as it does up stitches along the selvedge of a block from the tier below stitches. and working stitches of the growing block together with live Though the basic entrelac technique has several variations, stitches from the top edge of the next block below. To produce the following method produces tidy results. When you practice

©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.knittingdaily.com 3 Entrelac Knitting: How to Knit Entrelac Plus 6 Free Entrelac Knitting Patterns entrelac for the first time, try working every other tier of blocks First side triangle in a different color to emphasize the basketweave effect and Row 1: (WS) P2, turn. make it easier to identify the blocks and live stitches of each Row 2: (RS) K1, M1 (see page 7), k1, turn. tier. Note: When you work the first stitch of every row, you can Row 3: P2, p2tog, turn. slip it for a tidy pick-up edge, but be aware that you will lose Row 4: K2, M1, k1, turn. some elasticity in the knitted piece. Row 5: P3, p2tog, turn. Row 6: K3, M1, k1, turn. Base triangles (RS facing to begin) Row 7: P4, p2tog, turn. Cast on 24 sts (or use any multiple of 8, the number of sts in each Row 8: K4, M1, k1, turn. block in this sampler), using a loose cast-on such as the knitted Row 9: P5, p2tog, turn. cast-on (see page 7). Row 10: K5, M1, k1, turn. Row 11: P6, p2tog, turn. Row 1: (RS) K2, turn. Row 12: K6, M1, k1, turn. Row 2: (WS) P2, turn. Row 13: P7, k2tog, do not turn. The first side triangle has been Row 3: K3, turn. completed; leave the sts on the needle. Row 4: P3, turn. Row 5: K4, turn. Continue row with blocks Row 6: P4, turn. *With WS still facing, pick up and purl 8 sts along the selvedge Row 7: K5, turn. of the triangle (or the block on subsequent tiers) now between Row 8: P5, turn. the needles, working from the tip to the base of the triangle. Row 9: K6, turn. Turn work so RS is facing. Row 10: P6, turn. Row 1: (RS) K8, turn. Row 11: K7, turn. Row 2: (WS) P7, p2tog, turn. Row 12: P7, turn. Rows 3–16: Rep Rows 1 and 2 seven more times but do not turn Row 13: K8, do not turn. The first base triangle has been work after completing Row 16. All live sts from the base triangle completed. have been decreased away. The first whole block of this tier has With the RS still facing, the right selvedge edge of the just-worked been completed; leave the sts on the needle. If you started with triangle forms the right side of the triangle, the 8 live sts on the 24 cast-on sts, repeat from * once more to complete the second needle form the left side, and the cast-on row forms the base. full block of this tier. Repeat Rows 1–13 until all cast-on stitches have been worked. Second side triangle If you began with 24 sts, there will be three 8-st triangles on the With WS still facing, pick up and purl 8 sts along the selvedge needle (Figure 1). Note: All figures show knitting with needle of the new block now between the needles, picking up from tip removed. to base of the triangle or block of the previous tier. Turn work so RS is facing. Row 1: (RS) K8, turn. Row 2: (WS) P6, p2tog, turn. Row 3: K7, turn. Row 4: P5, p2tog, turn. Row 5: K6, turn. Figure 1 Row 6: P4, p2tog, turn. Row 7: K5, turn. First tier of blocks (WS facing to begin) Row 8: P3, p2tog, turn. Row 9: K4, turn. Turn the work so the WS is facing. This tier and every other tier Row 10: P2, p2tog, turn. of blocks begins and ends with a half-block, or side triangle, at Row 11: K3, turn. each edge to maintain a straight selvedge. The live sts from each Row 12: P1, p2tog, turn. base triangle will be joined to the growing blocks of the new tier Row 13: K2, turn. by working the last st of the new block on WS rows together Row 14: P2tog, turn, and slip last st to the right needle. The with a live st from a block in the previous tier. second side triangle has been completed: 25 sts total, two full If you’re changing color on this row, purl the first st with both blocks of 8 sts each, one first side triangle of 8 sts, one second strands of to secure them, then snip the old color. side triangle of 1 st (Figure 2).

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needle from the previous triangle counts as your first picked-up st, so you need to pick up and knit only 7 sts to have 8 sts for working each top triangle. Turn work so WS is facing. Row 1: (WS) P8, turn. Row 2: (RS) Ssk, k5, ssk, turn. Row 3: P7, turn. Row 4: Ssk, k4, ssk, turn. Row 5: P6, turn. Row 6: Ssk, k3, ssk, turn. Figure 2 Row 7: P5, turn. Row 8: Ssk, k2, ssk, turn. Second tier of blocks (RS facing to begin) Row 9: P4, turn. This tier consists of all full blocks. Row 10: Ssk, k1, ssk, turn. Row 11: P3, turn. Block Row 12: Ssk, ssk, turn. *With RS facing and 1 st on the right needle, pick up and knit Row 13: P2, turn. 7 sts along the selvedge now between the needles, picking up Row 14: K1, ssk, turn. from tip to base of the block from the previous row. Note: The Row 15: P2, turn. st remaining on the needle from the side triangle counts as your Row 16: Sl 1 as if to knit with yarn in back, ssk, pass slipped st first picked-up st, so you need to pick up and knit only 7 sts to over, do not turn. The first top triangle has been completed; 1 have 8 sts for working the first block. Pick up 8 sts for all the st remains on the right needle. If you started with 24 cast-on remaining blocks. Turn work so WS is facing. sts, repeat from * twice more to complete the second and third Row 1: (WS) P8, turn. top triangles—1 st remains. Cut yarn and pull through last st on Row 2: (RS) K7, ssk (see page 7), turn. needle to fasten off (Figure 4). Rows 3–16: Rep Rows 1 and 2 seven more times but do not turn work after completing Row 16. All live sts from the block of the previous tier have been decreased away. The first whole block of this tier has been completed; leave the sts on the needle. If you started with 24 cast-on sts, repeat from * twice more to complete the second and third blocks for this tier—24 sts total, three full blocks of 8 sts each (Figure 3). Repeat the previous two tiers as many times as desired and end by completing the tier that begins and ends with side triangles.

Figure 4 Variation for continuing in straight stockinette or other pattern stitch If you want to continue to knit straight up from your entrelac section rather than ending it with the last row of top triangles as above, work the last tier of triangles as follows to create a straight horizontal line of live sts at the top of the entrelac section. *With RS facing, pick up and knit 7 sts along the selvedge Figure 3 now between the needles, picking up sts from tip to base of the blocks from the previous tier. Note: Again, the st remain- ing on the needle from the previous triangle counts as your Top triangles (RS facing to begin) first picked-up st, so you need to pick up and knit only 7 sts to *With RS facing, pick up and knit 7 sts along the selvedge now have 8 sts for working each top triangle. Work these triangles between the needles, picking up sts from tip to base of the blocks using short-rows (see page 7) as indicated below, working each from the previous tier. Note: As before, the st remaining on the wrapped st together with its wrap as you come to it. Turn work

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Row 3: P7, wrap next st, turn. Begin picking up Row 4: K6, ssk, turn. stitches here to join Row 5: P6, wrap next st, turn. in the round. Row 6: K5, ssk, turn. Row 7: P5, wrap next st, turn. Row 8: K4, ssk, turn. Row 9: P4, wrap next st, turn. Row 10: K3, ssk, turn. Row 11: P3, wrap next st, turn. Row 12: K2, ssk, turn. Row 13: P2, wrap next st, turn. Row 14: K1, ssk, turn. Row 15: P1, wrap next st, turn. Row 16: Ssk, do not turn. The first top triangle has been com- pleted: 7 wrapped sts plus the last st are on the right needle. If you started with 24 cast-on sts, repeat from * twice more—24 live sts Figure 5 on needle. Work wraps together with sts on next row. Because the entrelac blocks lie on the diagonal, the number of sts been decreased away. Do not turn. along an edge of an entrelac piece doesn’t make an edge of the same length as knitting. Therefore, you’ll need to sts on the fol- Remaining blocks lowing row to the number needed to produce a piece the same width Work the blocks for the rest of this tier as for flat entrelac, picking as the entrelac section. up sts from tip to base with the WS facing and omitting the second side triangle. Do not turn at the end of the tier. WORKING ENTRELAC IN THE ROUND Entrelac may also be worked as a continuous circular tube of Second row of blocks (WS facing to begin, then fabric. Although the result is a seamless tube, the tiers of blocks RS facing) are worked back and forth, just as in flat entrelac. However, no side First block triangles are needed—instead, the first block of each row is started With WS facing, pick up and purl 8 sts along the selvedge now in a different manner to join the round. between the needles, picking up from base to tip of the block from Begin by a multiple of 8 sts that will fit around your the previous tier. Turn work so RS is facing. circular needle or double-pointed needles. Row 1: (RS) K7, ssk, turn. Row 2: (WS) P8, turn. Base triangles (RS facing) Row 3: K7, ssk, turn. Work the same as for entrelac knitted flat. Do not turn at the end Rows 4–15: Rep Rows 2 and 3 six more times, but do not turn work of the last row. Prepare to join for working in the round with the after completing Row 15. All sts from block of previous tier have RS facing, being careful not to twist. been decreased away. Work the blocks for the rest of this tier as for flat entrelac, picking up sts with the RS facing. Do not turn at First tier of blocks in the round (RS facing to the end of the row. begin, then WS facing) Repeat the last two tiers as many times as desired and end by com- First block pleting a tier that began with WS facing (same as the second round With RS facing, pick up and knit 8 sts along the selvedge now of blocks). between the needles, picking up from base to tip of the triangle (Figure 5) (or the block on subsequent tiers) from the previous tier. Top triangles Turn work so WS is facing. Work as for entrelac knitted flat, picking up for the first triangle as Row 1: (WS) P7, p2tog, turn. for the first tier of blocks worked in the round. Row 2: (RS) K8, turn. To practice entrelac in the round, try knitting Eunny Jang's Entrelac Row 3: P7, p2tog, turn. Socks on page 30. Rows 4–15: Rep Rows 2 and 3 six more times, but do not turn work after completing Row 15. All sts from block of previous tier have EUNNY JANG knits, spins, sews and writes in Denver Colorado.

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Short Rows: Wrapping a Stitch Work to turn point, slip next stitch Raised (M1) Increases purlwise to right needle. Bring yarn to front (Figure 1). Slip same stitch back to left needle (Figure 2). Turn work and Left Slant (M1L) Figure 1 bring yarn in position for next stitch, Figure 1 Figure 2 wrapping the stitch as you do so. Note: With left needle tip, lift strand between needles Hide wraps in a knit stitch when right from front to back (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop side of piece is worked in a knit stitch. through the back (Figure 2). Leave wrap if the purl stitch shows on right side. Hide wraps as follows: Knit Right Slant (M1R) Figure 2 stitch: On right side, work to just before wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from front, under the wrap from bottom up, and then into wrapped stitch as usual. Knit Figure 1 Figure 2 them together, making sure new stitch comes out under wrap. With left needle tip, lift strand between needles Purl stitch: On wrong side, work to just before wrapped stitch. from back to front (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop Insert right needle from back, under wrap from bottom up, and through the front (Figure 2). put on left needle. Purl them together. Illustrations by Gayle Ford

Knitted Cast-On Place slipknot on left needle if there are no estab- lished stitches. *With right needle, knit into first stitch (or slipknot) on left needle (Figure 1) and place new stitch onto left needle (Figure 2). Repeat from *, always knitting into last stitch made.

Figure 1 Figure 2

Ssk Slip two stitches knitwise one at a time (Figure 1). Insert point of left needle into front of two Figure 1 slipped stitch es and knit them together through Figure 2 back loops with right needle (Figure 2).

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The Basic Entrelac Scarf Design by Lisa Shroyer

FINISHED SIZE: 10" wide and 69" long.

YARN: Noro Kochoran (50% wool, 30% angora, 20% silk; 175 yd [160 m]/100 g): #53 orange/ green/turquoise, 3 skeins. Yarn distributed by Knitting Fever.

NEEDLES: Size 9 (5.5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct .

NOTIONS: Tapestry needle.

GAUGE: 15 sts and 19 rows = 4" in St st. Gauge is not critical for this project.

SKILL LEVEL: Lisa Shroyer Intermediate. If you're new to entrelac and need a basic pattern to get started, you're in luck! I just started an easy scarf and thought it would make a great beginner entrelac project. Enjoy!

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Notes facing and 16 sts on right needle, work Row 1 across • This scarf is a great first entrelac project. You can next 2 sts on left needle. Work Rows 2-13 once more— use any chunky-weight yarn, or even go down to a third base triangle completed; all 24 sts have been worsted weight (for a narrower version). worked. • In this project, you will pick up stitches on both the - right and wrong sides. You may need to practice pick Tier 1: (blocks with side triangles) ing up and purling stitches if you’re not used to this Turn work so WS is facing. You will start this tier with a method. • When picking up stitches, use a half stitch or one full triangle, then work 2 full right-slanting blocks, then end stitch selvedge. This means pick up your stitches with another side triangle. When you work the p2tog’s from the bar in the middle of the first stitch along the on WS rows, you will be joining the side triangle with selvedge, or in the trough between the first and sec- the sts of the base triangle below it. ond stitches along the selvedge. Keeping your pick- Row 1: (WS) P2, turn.

up locations consistent throughout the pick-up and Row 2: (RS) K1, M1 (see Glossary), k1, turn. throughout the project will ensure a neat look. Row 3: (WS) P2, p2tog, turn. Row 4: (RS) K2, M1, k1, turn. BEGINNING SCARF: Row 5: P3, p2tog, turn. Row 6: K3, M1, k1, turn. Base Triangles: Row 7: P4, p2tog, turn. Use the knitted method (see Glossary) Row 8: K4, M1, k1, turn. to CO 24 sts. You want a loose CO for Row 9: P5, p2tog, turn. the beginning of the base triangles. Row 1: (RS) K2, turn work around, leav- ing rem sts unworked. Row 2: (WS) P2, turn work around. Row 3: (RS) K3, turn work around. Row 4: (WS) P3, turn work around. Row 5: K4, turn. Row 6: P4, turn. Row 7: K5, turn. Row 8: P5, turn. Row 9: K6, turn. Row 10: P6, turn. Row 11: K7, turn. Row 12: P7, turn. Row 13: K8, do not turn—first base triangle completed. With RS still facing and 8 sts on right needle, rep Row 1 across next 2 sts on left needle. Work Rows 2-13—second base triangle completed. With RS still Lisa Shroyer

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Row 10: K5, M1, k1, turn. Row 1: (RS) K8, turn. Row 11: P6, p2tog, turn. Row 2: (WS) P6, p2tog, turn. Row 12: K6, M1, k1, turn. Row 3: (RS) K7, turn. Row 13: P7, p2tog, do not turn—first side triangle com- Row 4: (WS) P5, p2tog, turn. pleted; 8 sts on right needle. Row 5: K6, turn. With WS still facing, look at the base triangle now Row 6: P4, p2tog, turn. attached to the completed side triangle. The right-hand Row 7: K5, turn. side of the base triangle is attached to the side triangle, Row 8: P3, p2tog, turn. while the left-hand side of the base triangle is free. You Row 9: K4, turn. will now pick up sts along this left-hand edge of the Row 10: P2, p2tog, turn. base triangle. With WS still facing, starting at the tip Row 11: K3, turn. of the base triangle and working down to the CO edge, Row 12: P1, p2tog, turn. evenly pick up and purl 8 sts down the selvedge of the Row 13: K2, turn. base triangle (see Notes)—16 sts total on right needle Row 14: P2tog, turn so RS is facing, slip 1 st from left and 16 sts on left needle. In the block you’re about to needle to right needle—second side triangle com- work, you will join the new picked-up sts with the sts pleted; 25 sts total on needles. of the middle base triangle with p2tog’s, just as you joined the side triangle to the first base triangle. Turn Tier 2: (all blocks, no side triangles) work so RS is facing. Tier 1 created right-slanting blocks; Tier 2 will create Odd Rows 1-15: (RS) K8, turn. left-slanting blocks (when viewed from the RS). With Even Rows 2-14: (WS) P7, p2tog, turn. RS still facing, look at the side triangle just completed. Row 16: (WS) P7, p2tog, do not turn—first block com- Its left-hand edge is free. You will now pick up and knit pleted; 16 sts on right needle, 8 sts of last base tri- sts along this selvedge. With RS still facing and 1 st on angle on left needle. right needle, starting at tip of side triangle and working With WS still facing, look at the middle base triangle. downwards, pick up and knit 7 sts along the selvedge of The first block is joined to the right-hand edge of the the side triangle—8 sts total on right needle (including base triangle, while the left-hand edge of the base 1 st rem from side triangle). Turn so WS is facing. triangle is free. With WS still facing, starting at the tip Odd Rows 1-15: (WS) P8, turn. of the base triangle and working down to the CO edge, Even Rows 2-14: (RS) K7, ssk (see Glossary), turn. evenly pick up and purl 8 sts down the selvedge of the Row 16: (RS) K7, ssk, do not turn—first block complet- base triangle—24 sts total on right needle and 8 sts on ed; 8 sts on right needle, 16 sts on left needle. left needle. Turn work so RS is facing and work Rows **With RS still facing, look at the block below your 1-16 as for first block—second block completed; 24 sts needle tips, worked on Tier 1. The block you just on right needle, no sts on left needle. It may look like completed is joined to the top of this block, while the this tier is complete, but you still need to work a second left-hand edge of the block is free. You will now pick side triangle. With WS still facing, look at the last base up and knit sts along this selvedge. With RS still facing, triangle on the left-hand side. The second block is pick up and knit 8 sts along the block, from top to joined to its right-hand edge, while the left-hand edge bottom. Turn so WS is facing. Work Rows 1-16 as for first of the base triangle is free. With WS still facing, starting block worked in Tier 2. Rep from ** for third block—24 at the tip of the base triangle and working down to sts on right needle; all sts have been worked; 3 left- the CO edge, evenly pick up and purl 8 sts down the slanting blocks. selvedge of the base triangle—32 sts now on right needle. Turn work so RS is facing.

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Row 10: Ssk, k1, ssk, turn. BODY OF SCARF: Row 11: P3, turn. Turn so WS is facing. Rep Tier 1, picking up sts along Row 12: Ssk, ssk, turn. blocks instead of base triangles. Then Rep Tier 2. This Row 13: P2, turn. scarf alternates tiers of right-slanting blocks with side Row 14: K1, ssk, turn. triangles and tiers of left-slanting blocks with no side Row 15: P2, turn. triangles. As you work, you'll see that the side triangles Row 16: Sl 1 kwise with yarn in back, ssk, pass slipped st on every other tier are necessary to create flush edges over st rem from ssk, do not turn—first top triangle at either side of the scarf. If you did not work side completed; 1 st rem on right needle; 17 sts total rem. triangles, your scarf would have zigzag edges. Work ***With RS still facing and 1 st on right needle, pick up Tiers 1 and 2 until you reach 2" less than desired length and knit 7 sts down the selvedge of the block below the and have several yards of yarn left. Work Tier 1 once needle tips. Turn so WS is facing. Work Rows 1-16 as for more, to end with a tier with side triangles. first top triangle. Rep from *** for third top triangle—1 st rem. Break yarn and fasten off last st.

ENDING SCARF: FINISHING Top Triangles: Weave in ends. Block as desired and as appropriate You must have ended with a Tier 1 to work the top for yarn. The scarf shown was not blocked. triangles. With RS still facing and 1 st on right needle, entrelac, especially pinning and ironing it, will flatten pick up and knit 7 sts down the selvedge of the side out its three-dimensional surface. Some people like the triangle just completed—8 sts on right needle. Turn so smooth, flat look of blocked entrelac; others like the WS is facing. puffed and quilted look of non-blocked entrelac. Decide Row 1: (WS) P8, turn. which look you like best before you block your scarf. Row 2: (RS) Ssk, k5, ssk, turn. With time and wear, your scarf will naturally flatten out Row 3: (WS) P7, turn. a bit. - Row 4: (RS) Ssk, k4, ssk, turn. Row 5: P6, turn. Row 6: Ssk, k3, ssk, turn. LISA SHROYER is the editor of Interweave Knits magazine. Row 7: P5, turn. Row 8: Ssk, k2, ssk, turn. Row 9: P4, turn.

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Knitted Cast-On Raised (M1) Increases Place slipknot on left needle if there are no established stitches. *With right needle, knit into first stitch (or slipknot) on left needle (Figure 1) and Left Slant (M1L) place new stitch onto left needle (Figure 2). Repeat Figure 1 Figure 2 from *, always knitting into last stitch made. With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the back (Figure 2).

Right Slant (M1R)

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 1 Figure 2 With left needle tip, lift strand between needles Ssk Decrease from back to front (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the front (Figure 2). Slip two stitches knitwise one at a time (Figure 1). Illustrations by Gayle Ford Figure 1 Insert point of left needle into front of two slipped stitch es and knit them together through back Figure 2 loops with right needle (Figure 2).

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FELTED ENTRELAC KEY FOBS Susan Pierce Lawrence

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6 sts along the side of the first base triangle, beg at the bottom of the triangle and working These pouches are worked in entrelac to the tip. Turn. in the round. When working entrelac in Row 1: P5, p2tog, turn. the round, no side triangles are worked, Row 2: K6, turn. making the technique quite different Row 3: P5, p2tog, turn. than flat entrelac. For a complete tuto- Rows 4–11: Rep Rows 2 and 3 four more rial on working entrelac in the round and times; do not turn work after completing Row flat, download Eunny Jang’s Beyond the 11. Basics article at knittingdaily 2nd, 3rd, and 4th blocks: *With WS facing, .com/media/p/24512.aspx. Felted entrelac pick up and purl 6 sts along the side of the closest base triangle, beg at the tip of the Key Fobs triangle and working to the bottom. Turn. the rectangle and working to the bottom. P1, Susan Pierce Lawrence Row 1: K6, turn. turn. Row 2: P5, p2tog, turn. Row 1: Ssk, k4, wrap next st, turn. Finished Size 10" circumference and 6" high, Rows 3–12: Rep Rows 1 and 2 five more Row 2: P4, p2tog, turn. before felting; 9" circumference and 4" high, times; do not turn work after completing Row Row 3: K4, wrap next st, turn. after felting. 12. Row 4: P3, p2tog, turn. Yarn Noro Kureyon (100% wool; 110 yd Rep from * 2 more times—four Tier 1 blocks. Row 5: K3, wrap next st, turn. [101 m]/50 g): about 1/2 skein makes a pouch. Tier 2: Row 6: P2, p2tog, turn. Pouches shown in colorways #185, #220, and First block: With WS facing, pick up and purl Row 7: K2, wrap next st, turn. #226. Yarn distributed by Knitting Fever. 6 sts along the side of the closest Tier 1 block, Row 8: P1, p2tog, turn. Needles Size 101/2 (6.5 mm): set of 5 double- beg at the bottom of the rectangle and work- Row 9: K1, wrap next st, turn. pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary ing up to the top. Turn. Row 10: P2tog, do not turn. to obtain the correct gauge. Row 1: K5, ssk, turn. Rep from * 2 more times—4 ending triangles. Notions Smooth, worsted-weight cotton Row 2: P6, turn. Bottom: yarn; tapestry needle; bead with 4 mm center Row 3: K5, ssk, turn. With WS facing, wrap next st, turn—24 sts. hole; metal split ring/key ring, circular or with Rows 4–11: Rep Rows 2 and 3 four more With RS facing, beg working in the rnd again. lobster clasp. times; do not turn work after completing Row Rnd 1: (RS) Knit, working wraps tog with Gauge 15 sts and 20 rows = 4" in St st, before 11. wrapped sts. felting. 2nd, 3rd, and 4th blocks: *With RS facing, Rnd 2: *K2, k1f&b; rep from * to end— pick up and knit 6 sts along the side of the 32 sts. Pouch closest Tier 1 block, beg at the top of the Rnds 3, 4, 6, and 8: Knit. CO 32 sts. Distribute sts evenly over 4 dpn. rectangle and working to the bottom. Turn. Rnd 5: *K2, k2tog; rep from * to end—24 sts Join in the rnd. Top edge: Row 1: P6, turn. rem. Rnds 1 and 3: Purl. Row 2: K5, ssk, turn. Rnd 7: *K1, k2tog; rep from * to end—16 sts Rnds 2, 4, and 6: Knit. Rows 3–12: Rep Rows 1 and 2 five more rem. Rnd 5: *K2tog, yo, k2; rep from * to end. times; do not turn work after completing Row Rnd 9: *K2tog; rep from * to end—8 sts rem. Rnd 7: *K2, k2tog; rep from * to end—24 sts 12. Break yarn, leaving an 8" tail. Thread tail onto rem; 6 sts each dpn. Rep from * 2 more times—four Tier 2 blocks. tapestry needle and draw through rem sts. Rnd 8: Knit. Ending triangles: Pull tight to sts and fasten off on WS. Base triangles: Note: When working the First triangle: With RS facing, pick up and base triangles, do not pick up the wraps. knit 6 sts along the side of the closest Tier FiNiShiNG Row 1: (RS) K1, wrap next st, turn (see short- 2 block, beg at the base of the rectangle and Felting: Thread a strand of cotton yarn rows in Glossary). working to the top. Turn. through the eyelets at the top of the pouch. Row 2: P1, turn. Row 1: P5, p2tog, turn. Tie the ends of the cotton yarn tog but do Row 3: K2, wrap next st, turn. Row 2: K5, wrap next st, turn. not cinch the top of the pouch. Place pouch Row 4: P2, turn. Row 3: P4, p2tog, turn. in a zippered pillowcase and then place the Row 5: K3, wrap next st, turn. Row 4: K4, wrap next st, turn. pillowcase in a washing machine with a clean Row 6: P3, turn. Row 5: P3, p2tog, turn. pair of jeans. Use the machine’s lowest and Row 7: K4, wrap next st, turn. Row 6: K3, wrap next st, turn. hottest water setting and a small amount of Row 8: P4, turn. Row 7: P2, p2tog, turn. mild detergent. Rep the agitation cycle until Row 9: K5, wrap next st, turn. Row 8: K2, wrap next st, turn. individual sts are no longer visible. Because Row 10: P5, turn. Row 9: P1, p2tog, turn. this is a small project, it may be necessary to Row 11: K6, do not turn. Row 10: K1, wrap next st, turn. run the agitation cycle several times before Rep Rows 1–11 three more times—4 base Row 11: P2tog, do not turn. the pouch is fully felted. Remove the pouch triangles. 2nd, 3rd, and 4th triangles: *With WS from the washing machine and rinse it in Tier 1: facing, pick up and purl 6 sts along the side cold water. Place it over an appropriately First block: With RS facing, pick up and knit of the closest Tier 2 block, beg at the top of shaped object and allow it to dry completely.

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Drawstring: Holding two strands of yarn short-rows: Wrapping a stitch tog, make a twisted cord (see Glossary) about 24" long. Fold the drawstring in half. Pull Work to turn point, slip next stitch purlwise to right needle. Bring the folded end through the bead, then attach yarn to front (Figure 1). Slip same stitch back to left needle (Figure the folded end to the key ring using a lark’s 2). Turn work and bring yarn in position for next stitch, wrapping head knot (see below). Remove the cotton the stitch as you do so. Note: Hide wraps in a knit stitch when right yarn and thread the ends of the drawstring side of piece is worked in a knit stitch. Leave wrap if the purl stitch Figure 1 through the eyelet holes (each end through shows on right side. Hide wraps as follows: Knit stitch: On right side, four eyelets). Tie the loose ends of the draw- work to just before wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from front, string tog using a secure, decorative knot under the wrap from bottom up, and then into wrapped stitch as such as a lanyard knot. usual. Knit them together, making sure new stitch comes out under Susan Pierce Lawrence lives and knits in the wrap. Purl stitch: On wrong side, work to just before wrapped stitch. shadow of Utah’s beautiful Wasatch Moun- Insert right needle from back, under wrap from bottom up, and put Figure 2 tains. Find more of her work at www. on left needle. Purl them together. knittingasfastasican.com.

Lark’S hEaD kNoT Twisted Cord Cut several lengths of yarn about five times the desired finished cord length. Fold the strands in half to form two equal groups. Anchor the strands at the fold by looping them over a doorknob. Holding one group in each hand, twist each group tightly in a clockwise direction until they begin to kink. Put both groups in one hand, then release Figure 1 Figure 2 them, allowing them to twist around each other counter- clockwise. Smooth out the twists so that they are uniform Figure 1 Figure 2 along the length of the cord. Knot the ends.

Illustrations by Gayle Ford

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Tier 1 (base triangles): Tier 3: With RS facing and 1 st on right

✿ ❤ Triangle 1: needle, pick up and knit 3 sts along selvedge ✿ ❤ ❤ ✿ ❤✿ Row 1 (RS) K2, turn. between needles, turn—4 sts total. Square 1: Row 2 (WS) P2, turn. Row 1 (WS) P4, turn. Row 3 Sl 1, k2, turn. Row 2 (RS) Sl 1, k2, ssk, turn. Row 4 P3, turn. Rep Rows 1 and 2 three more times; do not Row 5 Sl 1, k3, do not turn. turn at end of last row. Squares 2–4: With RS Triangles 2–4: Work as for triangle 1—16 sts facing, pick up and knit 4 sts along selvedge total: four 4-st triangles. edge between needles, turn. Work as for Tier 2: square 1—16 sts total: four 4-st squares. Side triangle 1: Tiers 4–16: Rep tiers 2 and 3 six more times, Row 1 (WS) P2, turn. then work tier 2 once more. Row 2 (RS) K1, k1f&b, turn. Tier 17: (top triangles) Row 3 Sl 1, p1, p2tog, turn. Top triangle 1: With RS facing and 1 st on Row 4 K2, k1f&b, turn. right needle, pick up and knit 3 sts along Row 5 Sl 1, p2, p2tog, do not turn. selvedge between needles, turn—4 sts total. Square 1: With WS facing, pick up and purl 4 Row 1 (WS) P4, turn. sts along sl sts between needles, turn. Row 2 (RS) Ssk, k1, ssk, turn. Row 1 (RS) K4, turn. Row 3 P3, turn. ❤ Row 2 (WS) Sl 1, p2, p2tog, turn. Row 4 [Ssk] 2 times, turn. ✿ ❤✿ ❤✿ Rep Rows 1 and 2 three more times; do not Row 5 P2, turn.

❤ ✿ ✿ ❤ ✿ turn at end of last row. Squares 2 and 3: Row 6 K1, ssk, turn.

✿ Work as for square 1. Side triangle 2: With Row 7 P2, turn. Reservoir ✿ WS facing, pick up and purl 4 sts along rem Row 8 Sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso—1 st rem. selvedge edge, turn. Top triangles 2–4: Work as for top triangle Mitts Row 1 (RS) K4, turn. 1—1 st rem. Fasten off last st. Allyson Dykhuizen Row 2 (WS) Sl 1, p1, p2tog, turn. intermediate: ✿ Row 3 K3, turn. Right Mitt I’m feeling pretty confident Row 4 Sl 1, p2tog, turn. Palm: With MC and RS facing, beg at CO edge Row 5 K2, turn. of back of hand and skipping first 3 triangles Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock Row 6 P2tog, turn, sl last st to right needle—17 along right side edge, pick up and knit 6 sts sts total: 4 sts of side triangle 1, three 4-st along each of next 5 side triangles, ending at Size 7" hand circumference and 71/2" long squares, 1 st of side triangle 2. top edge of panel—30 sts total. Yarn Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock (80% superwash merino wool, 20% nylon; 430 yd [393 m]/100 g): • #23ns berry (MC), 1 skein • #70 Vera (CC), 1 skein Gauge 28 sts and 40 rows = 4" in St st Tools • Size 2 (2.75 mm): set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Markers (m) • Waste yarn • Yarn needle

Notes Mitts begin with an entrelac panel rhat forms the back of the hand. Stitches are picked up from this panel for the palm, wrist , fingers, and thumb.

Stitches Seed Stitch: (even number of sts) Row 1 *K1, p1; rep from * to end. Row 2 *P1, k1; rep from * to end. Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.

Back of Hand (Make 2) With CC, loosely CO 16 sts.

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Row 1 (WS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in front (wyf), yarn holder, k8—15 sts rem for ring finger. Pm With MC and RS facing, pick up and knit 16 purl to end. and join in the rnd. Work in St st until piece sts along selvedge edge of palm, then 30 sts Row 2 (RS) Sl 1 kwise with yarn in back (wyb), measures 1". Loosely BO all sts. Middle along top of back of hand—46 sts total. Join knit to end. finger: Place first 7 held sts and last 5 held in the rnd. Pinkie finger: K3, place next Rep Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 3" sts onto dpn—12 sts for middle finger. Pick up 36 sts onto waste yarn holder, CO 2 sts, from pick-up row. BO all sts. Rib: With MC and knit 3 sts at base of ring finger—15 sts. k7—12 sts total. Pm and join in the rnd. Work and RS facing, beg at first picked-up st for Pm and join in the rnd. Finish as for ring in St st until piece measures 1". Loosely BO palm, pick up and knit 17 sts along selvedge finger. Index finger: K12 from holder, then all sts. Place 36 held sts onto dpn. Pick up and edge of palm. Next row (WS) [P2, p1f&b] 5 pick up and knit 3 sts at base of middle knit 3 sts at base of pinkie—39 sts total. Pm times, p2—22 sts. Work in k1, p1 rib until finger—15 sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Finish and join in the rnd. Work 2 rnds in St st. Ring piece reaches CO edge of back of hand (about as for ring finger. Thumb: With RS facing and finger: K5, place next 24 sts onto waste yarn 21/4"), ending with a WS row. With RS facing, MC, pick up and knit 30 sts around thumb holder, k10—15 sts rem for ring finger. Pm and BO all sts. Sew selvedge edge of rib and BO opening. Pm and join in the rnd. Knit 2 rnds. join in the rnd. Work in St st until piece edge of palm to side edge of entrelac panel for Next rnd [K2, k2tog] 7 times, k2—23 sts rem. measures 1". Loosely BO all sts. Middle 3". Beg at top edge of entrelac panel, sew BO Work in St st until piece measures 2" from finger: Place first 5 held sts and last 7 held edge of palm to side edge of entrelac panel for pick-up rnd. Loosely BO all sts. Wristband: sts onto dpn—12 sts for middle finger. Pick up 11/2"; 2" rem open along BO edge of palm for With MC and RS facing, beg just below palm and knit 3 sts at base of ring finger—15 sts. thumb. Sew rem selvedge edge of rib to side on opposite side from thumb, pick up and knit Pm and join in the rnd. Finish as for ring edge of entrelac panel. Top of hand: With 6 sts along seam between rib and back of finger. Index finger and thumb: Work as for MC and RS facing, pick up and knit 16 sts hand. Work in seed st (see Stitches) until right mitt. Wristband: Work as for right mitt, along selvedge edge of palm, then 30 sts piece measures 33/4". BO all sts. Position strap picking up sts just below palm on same side along top of back of hand—46 sts total. Join over back of hand and sew to opposite seam. as thumb. in the rnd. Pinkie finger: K23, place next 36 sts onto waste yarn holder (passing beg of Left Mitt F inishing rnd)—10 sts rem for pinkie. Using the Palm: With MC and RS facing, beg at top Weave in ends. Block mitts lightly to smooth backward-loop method, CO 2 sts—12 sts edge of back of hand and working along left out entrelac. ❤ total. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. side edge, pick up and knit 6 sts along each of Work in St st until piece measures 1". Loosely first 5 side triangles—30 sts total. Work as for Allyson Dykhuizen can be found online at BO all sts. Place 36 held sts onto dpn. Pick up right mitt. Rib: With MC and RS facing, beg www.thesweatshopoflove.com. and knit 3 sts at base of pinkie—39 sts total. at BO edge of palm, pick up and knit 17 sts Pm and join in the rnd. Work 2 rnds in St st. along selvedge edge of palm. Work rib and Ring finger: K7, place next 24 sts onto waste sew seams as for right mitt. Top of hand:

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● k1f&b increase ● ssk Knit into next stitch and leave it on the needle; then knit through Slip two stitches individually knitwise (1). Insert tip of left the back loop of the same stitch—one stitch increased to two. needle into front of these two slipped stitches and use right needle to knit them together through their back loops (2). (Some knitters like to slip the second stitch purlwise to make a more prominent decrease line.)

1 2 Illustrations by Gayle Ford

AbbreviAtions beg beginning; begin; begins p purl ssk slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, bet between p1f&b purl into front and back of k2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease) BO bind off same st ssp slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, p2 CC contrasting color p2tog purl two stitches together sl sts tog tbl (decrease) cm centimeter(s) patt(s) pattern(s) st(s) stitch(es) cn cable needle pm place marker St st stockinette stitch CO cast on psso pass slipped stitch over tbl through back loop cont continue(s); continuing p2sso pass two slipped stitches tog together dec(s) decrease(s); decreasing over WS wrong side dpn double-pointed needle(s) pwise purlwise wyb with yarn in back foll following; follows RC right cross wyf with yarn in front g gram(s) rem remain(s); remaining yo inc increase(s); increasing rep repeat; repeating * repeat starting point k knit rev St st reverse stockinette stitch (i.e., repeat from *) k1f&b knit into front and back of rib ribbing * * repeat all instructions same st rnd(s) round(s) between asterisks k2tog knit two stitches together RS right side ( ) alternate measurements kwise knitwise rev sc reverse single and/or instructions LC left cross sc single crochet [ ] instructions that are to be sk skip worked as a group a m(s) marker(s) specified number of times MC main color sl slip mm millimeter(s) sl st slip stitch (sl 1 st pwise M1 make one (increase) unless otherwise indicated) M1R (L) make one right (left)

Left Mitt Right Mitt

ngers ngers

palm palm

thumb thumb

rib rib

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Worked from side to side, this shrug grows by increasing the size of cochin the entrelac units from the cast-on to the center, where stitches are pattern bound off for one front side. Stitches are cast on for the other front shrug side, and the entrelac units are decreased to the original stitch count. by Eunny Jang The finished shrug resembles a paper lantern or a globe hinged at the equator.

Finished Size Needles Notes 33 (37, 41)" (84 [94, 104] cm). Sample Size 5 (3.75 mm): 24" (60 cm) circular (cir) — This shrug is worked from armhole shown measures 33" (84 cm). and set of double-pointed needles (dpn). to armhole using the circular entrelac Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain technique. Yarn the correct gauge. — The shrug consists of two mirrored sides DK weight (Light #3). Shown here: Rowan which are joined by a tier at center back. Felted Tweed (50% merino, 25% alpaca, Notions — The rectangles in each tier are one stitch 25% viscose; 191 yd [175 m]/50 g): 3 (4, Markers (m); scrap yarn for stitch holders. larger (or smaller) than the previous tier. 4) balls. Yarn distributed by Westminster — Change from double-pointed needles Fibers. Gauge to a circular needle when necessary to 22 sts and 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in St st. accommodate the growing number of stitches.

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Side A E F L Armhole With dpns, CO 88 (96, 104) sts. Place mark- er (pm) and join in the rnd. Knit 5 rnds. left Tier 1 dec rnd: *P2tog; rep from * around—44 (48, front 52) sts rem. right D front C L F F L Tier 1 Make 11 (12, 13) 4-st Base Triangles as foll: Triangle 1: B Tier 2 Row 1: (RS) Sl 1, k1, turn. Row 2: P2, turn. A Construction Diagram Row 3: Sl 1, k2, turn. F L Row 4: P3, turn. L F F L Row 5: Sl 1, k3, turn. Row 1: Sl 1, p5, turn. Row 6: P4, turn. Row 2: Sl 1, k4, ssk (last st of rectangle and Row 7: Sl 1, k3; do not turn. first st of rectangle from previous tier), Tier 3 Triangle 2: turn. Row 1: (RS) K2, turn. Rep Rows 1 and 2 four more times. Direction of knitting Work Rows 2–7 as for Triangle 1. Next row: (WS) Sl 1, p5, turn. Triangles 3–11 (12, 13): F First block Work as for Triangle 2. Next row: Sl 1, k5, do not turn. L Last block Rectangle 2: Tier 2 With RS still facing, pick up and knit 6 sts Make 11 (12, 13) 5-st Rectangles as foll: along next rectangle, turn. Work as for Rec- Tier 5 tangle 1, beg with Row 1. Make 11 (12, 13) 8-st Rectangles as foll: Rectangle 1: Rectangles 3–11 (12, 13): Rectangle 1: With RS facing, pick up and knit 5 sts along Work as for Rectangle 2. With WS facing, pick up and purl 8 sts along first base triangle from Tier 1, turn. next rectangle, turn. Set-up row: (WS) Sl 1, p4, turn. Tier 4 Set-up row: (RS) Sl 1, k7, turn. Row 1: Sl 1, k4, turn. Make 11 (12, 13) 7-st Rectangles as foll: Row 1: Sl 1, p7, turn. Row 2: Sl 1, p3, p2tog (last st of rectangle Rectangle 1: Row 2: Sl 1, k6, ssk (last st of rectangle and and first st of base triangle), turn. With RS facing, pick up and knit 7 sts along first st of rectangle from previous tier), Rep Rows 1 and 2 three more times. next rectangle, turn. turn. Set-up row: (WS) Sl 1, p6, turn. Next row: (RS) Sl 1, k4, turn. Rep Rows 1 and 2 six more times. Row 1: Sl 1, k6, turn. Next row: Sl 1, p4, do not turn. Next row: (WS) Sl 1, p7, turn. Row 2: Sl 1, p5, p2tog (last st of rectangle Rectangle 2: and first st of rectangle from previous Next row: Sl 1, k7, do not turn. With WS still facing, pick up and purl 5 sts tier), turn. Rectangle 2: along edge of next base triangle, turn. Work Rep Rows 1 and 2 five more times. With RS still facing, pick up and knit 8 sts as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. along next rectangle, turn. Next row: (RS) Sl 1, k6, turn. Rectangles 3–11 (12, 13): Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. Next row: Sl 1, p6, do not turn. Work as for Rectangle 2. Rectangles 3–11 (12, 13): Rectangle 2: Work as for Rectangle 2. Tier 3 With WS still facing, pick up and purl 7 sts Make 11 (12, 13) 6-st Rectangles as foll: along next rectangle, turn. Tier 6 Rectangle 1: Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. Make 11 (12, 13) 9-st Rectangles. With WS facing, pick up and purl 6 sts along Rectangles 3–11 (12, 13): Rectangle 1: next rectangle, turn. Work as for Rectangle 2. With RS facing, pick up and knit 9 sts along Set-up row: (RS) Sl 1, k5, turn. next rectangle, turn.

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Set-up row: (WS) Sl 1, p8, turn. Next row: Sl 1, p10, do not turn. CeNTeR TieR—All SizeS Row 1: Sl 1, k8, turn. Rectangle 2: Make 7 (8, 9) triangles and 4 rectangles of 12 Row 2: Sl 1, p7, p2tog (last st of rectangle With WS still facing, pick up and purl 11 sts (13, 14) sts each as foll: and first st of rectangle from previous along next rectangle, turn. tier), turn. Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. Sizes 33 (41)" (84 [104] cm) only Rep Rows 1 and 2 seven more times. Rectangles 3–11 (12, 13): Triangle 1: Work as for Rectangle 2. Next row: (RS) Sl 1, k8, turn. With WS facing, pick up and purl 12 (14) sts along next rectangle, turn. Next row: Sl 1, p8, do not turn. Tier 9— Sizes 37 (41)" Set-up row: (RS) Sl 1, k11 (13), turn. Rectangle 2: (94 [104] cm) only Row 1: Sl 1, p11 (13), turn. With WS still facing, pick up and purl 9 sts Make 12 (13) 12-st Rectangles as foll: Row 2: Sl 1, k10 (12), ssk (last st of triangle along next rectangle, turn. Rectangle 1: and first st of rectangle from previous Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. With WS facing, pick up and purl 12 sts tier), turn. Rectangles 3–11 (12, 13): along next rectangle, turn. Row 3: Sl 1, p10 (12), turn. Work as for Rectangle 2. Set-up row: (RS) Sl 1, k11, turn. Row 4: Sl 1, k9 (11), ssk, turn. Row 1: Sl 1, p11, turn. Tier 7 Cont in patt, working 1 fewer knit st before Row 2: Sl 1, k10, ssk (last st of rectangle and Make 11 (12, 13) 10-st Rectangles as foll: ssk on every RS row until all sts from rec- first st of rectangle from previous tier), tangle have been dec’d away; do not turn. Rectangle 1: turn. With WS facing, pick up and purl 10 sts Rep Rows 1 and 2 ten more times. Triangle 2: along next rectangle, turn. With RS still facing, pick up and knit 12 (14) Next row: (WS) Sl 1, p11, turn. Set-up row: (RS) Sl 1, k9, turn. sts along next rectangle, turn. Row 1: Sl 1, p9, turn. Next row: Sl 1, k11, do not turn. Beg with Row 1, work as for Triangle 1. Row 2: Sl 1, k8, ssk (last st of rectangle and Rectangle 2: Triangles 3–7 (9): first st of rectangle from previous tier), With RS still facing, pick up and knit 12 sts Work as for Triangle 2. turn. along next rectangle, turn. Rectangle 1: Rep Rows 1 and 2 eight more times. Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. With RS still facing, pick up and knit 12 (14) Rectangles 3–12 (13): Next row: (WS) Sl 1, p9, turn. sts along next rectangle, turn. Work as for Rectangle 2. Row 1: (WS) Sl 1, p11 (13), turn. Next row: Sl 1, k9, do not turn. Row 2: Sl 1, k10 (12), ssk (last st of rectangle Rectangle 2: Tier 10—Size 41" (104 cm) only and first st of rectangle from previous With RS still facing, pick up and knit 10 sts Make 13 13-st Rectangles as foll: tier), turn. along next rectangle, turn. Rectangle 1: Rep last 2 rows 10 (12) more times. Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. With RS facing, pick up and knit 13 sts along Next row: (WS) Sl 1, p11 (13), turn. Rectangles 3–11 (12, 13): next rectangle, turn. Work as for Rectangle 2. Set-up row: (WS) Sl 1, p12, turn. Next row: Sl 1, k11 (13), do not turn. Row 1: Sl 1, k12, turn. Rectangles 2–4: Tier 8 Row 2: Sl 1, p11, p2tog (last st of rectangle Work as for Rectangle 1. Make 11 (12, 13) 11-st Rectangles as foll. and first st of rectangle from previous Place sts from 7 (9) triangles on a hold- Rectangle 1: tier), turn. er—48 (56) sts rem. With RS facing, pick up and knit 11 sts along Using the provisional method (see Glos- Rep Rows 1 and 2 eleven more times. next rectangle, turn. sary), CO 84 (126) sts—132 (182) sts. Set-up row: (WS) Sl 1, p10, turn. Next row: (RS) Sl 1, k12, turn. Next row: (WS) P84 (126), turn. Row 1: Sl 1, k10, turn. Next row: Sl 1, p12, do not turn. Triangle 1: Row 2: Sl 1, p9, p2tog (last st of rectangle Rectangle 2: Row 1: (RS): Sl 1, k1, turn. and first st of rectangle from previous With WS still facing, pick up and purl 13 sts Row 2: P2, turn. tier), turn. along next rectangle, turn. Row 3: Sl 1, k2, turn. Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. Rep Rows 1 and 2 nine more times. Row 4: P3, turn. Rectangles 3–13: Next row: (RS) Sl 1, k10, turn. Cont in patt, adding 1 st to triangle every RS Work as for Rectangle 2.

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row until 12 (14) sts have been worked, do not turn. Triangles 2–7 (9): Work as for Triangle 1, ending with a RS row, do not turn. Pm for new beg of rnd.

Size 37" (94 cm) only Triangle 1: With RS facing, pick up and knit 13 sts along edge of next rectangle, turn. Set-up row: (WS) Sl 1, p12, turn. Row 1: Sl 1, k12, turn. Row 2: Sl 1, p11, p2tog (last st of rectangle and first st of rectangle from previous tier), turn. Row 3: Sl 1, k11, turn. Row 4: Sl 1, p10, p2tog (last st of rectangle and first st of rectangle from previous tier), turn. Row 4: K3, turn. Tier 9—Sizes 37 (41)" Cont in patt, working 1 less purl st before Cont in patt, adding 1 st to triangle every WS (94 [104] cm) only p2tog every WS row until all sts from rectan- row until 13 sts have been worked, ending Make 12 (13) 12-st Rectangles as foll: gle have been dec’d away, do not turn. with a WS row, do not turn. Rectangle 1: Triangles 2–8: Triangles 2–8: With WS facing, pick up and purl 12 sts along With WS still facing, pick up and purl 13 sts Work as for Triangle 1. next rectangle, turn. along next rectangle, turn. Pm for new beg of rnd. Set-up row: (RS) Sl 1, k11, turn. Beg with Row 1, work as for Triangle 1, do Row 1: Sl 1, p11, turn. not turn. Side B—All SizeS Tier 10—Size 41" (104 cm) only Row 2: Sl 1, k10, ssk (last st of rectangle and Rectangle 1: first st of triangle or rectangle from previ- Make 13 13-st Rectangles as foll: With WS still facing, pick up and purl 13 sts ous tier), turn. along next rectangle, turn. Rectangle 1: Rep Rows 1 and 2 ten more times. Row 1: Sl 1, k12, turn. With RS facing, pick up and knit 13 sts along Next row: (WS) Sl 1, p11, turn. Row 2: Sl 1, p11, p2tog (last st of rectangle next rectangle, turn. and first st of rectangle from previous tier), Set-up row: (WS) Sl 1, p12, turn. Next row: Sl 1, k10, sssk (last st of rectangle turn. Row 1: Sl 1, k12, turn. and 2 rem sts of triangle or rectangle from previous tier), do not turn. Rep Rows 1 and 2 eleven more times. Row 2: Sl 1, p11, p2tog (last st of rectangle Rectangle 2: Next row: (RS) Sl 1, k12, turn. and first st of triangle or rectangle from previous tier), turn. With RS still facing, pick up and knit 12 sts Next row: Sl 1, p12, do not turn. Rep Rows 1 and 2 eleven more times. along next triangle or rectangle, turn. Rectangles 2–4: Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. Next row: (RS) Sl 1, k12, turn. Work as for Rectangle 1. Rectangles 3–12 (13): Place sts from 8 triangles on a holder—52 sts Next row: Sl 1, p11, p3tog (last st of rectangle Work as for Rectangle 2. rem. and 2 rem sts of triangle or rectangle from Using the provisional method, CO 104 previous tier), do not turn. Tier 8—All sizes sts—156 sts. Rectangle 2: Make 11 (12, 13) 11-st Rectangles as foll: Next row: (RS) K104, turn. With WS still facing, pick up and purl 13 sts Triangle 1: along next triangle or rectangle, turn. Rectangle 1: With RS facing, pick up and knit Row 1: (WS): Sl 1, p1, turn. Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. 11 sts along next rectangle, turn. Row 2: K2, turn. Rectangles 3–13: Set-up row: (WS) Sl 1, p10, turn. Row 3: Sl 1, p2, turn. Work as for Rectangle 2. Row 1: Sl 1, k10, turn.

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Row 2: Sl 1, p9, p2tog (last st of rectangle Next row: Sl 1, p7, p3tog (last st of rectangle along next rectangle, turn. and first st of triangle or rectangle from and 2 rem sts of rectangle from previous Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. previous tier), turn. tier), do not turn. Rectangles 3–11 (12, 13): Rep Rows 1 and 2 nine more times. Rectangle 2: Work as for Rectangle 2. Next row: (RS) Sl 1, k10, turn. With WS still facing, pick up and purl 9 sts Tier 3 Next row: Sl 1, p9, p3tog (last st of rectangle along next rectangle, turn. Make 11 (12, 13) 6-st Rectangles as foll: and 2 rem sts of triangle or rectangle Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. from previous tier), do not turn. Rectangles 3–11 (12, 13): Rectangle 1: Work as for Rectangle 2. With WS facing, pick up and purl 6 sts along Rectangle 2: next rectangle, turn. With WS still facing, pick up and purl 11 sts Tier 5 Set-up row: (RS) Sl 1, k5, turn. along next triangle or rectangle, turn. Make 11 (12, 13) 8-st Rectangles as foll: Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. Row 1: Sl 1, p5, turn. Rectangle 1: Rectangles 3–11 (12, 13): Row 2: Sl 1, k4, ssk (last st of rectangle and With WS facing, pick up and purl 8 sts along Work as for Rectangle 2. first st of rectangle from previous tier), next rectangle, turn. turn. Set-up row: (RS) Sl 1, k7, turn. Tier 7 Rep Rows 1 and 2 four more times. Make 11 (12, 13) 10-st Rectangles as foll: Row 1: Sl 1, p7, turn. Next row: (WS) Sl 1, p5, turn. Rectangle 1: Row 2: Sl 1, k6, ssk (last st of rectangle and Next row: Sl 1, k4, sssk (last st of rectangle With WS facing, pick up and purl 10 sts along first st of rectangle from previous tier), and 2 rem sts of rectangle from previous next rectangle, turn. turn. tier), do not turn. Set-up row: (RS) Sl 1, k9, turn. Rep Rows 1 and 2 six more times. Row 1: Sl 1, p9, turn. Next row: (WS) Sl 1, p7, turn. Rectangle 2: With RS still facing, pick up and knit 6 sts Row 2: Sl 1, k8, ssk (last st of rectangle and Next row: Sl 1, k6, sssk (last st of rectangle along next rectangle, turn. first st of rectangle from previous tier), and 2 rem sts of rectangle from previous Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. turn. tier), do not turn. Rectangles 3–11 (12, 13): Rep Rows 1 and 2 eight more times. Rectangle 2: Work as for Rectangle 2. Next row: (WS) Sl 1, p9, turn. With RS still facing, pick up and knit 8 sts Next row: Sl 1, k8, sssk (last st of rectangle along next rectangle, turn. Tier 2 Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. and 2 rem sts of rectangle from previous Make 11 (12, 13) 5-st Rectangles as foll: Rectangles 3–11 (12, 13): tier), do not turn. Rectangle 1: Work as for Rectangle 2. Rectangle 2: With RS facing, pick up and knit 5 sts along With RS still facing, pick up and knit 10 sts Tier 4 next rectangle, turn. along next rectangle, turn. Set-up row: (WS) Sl 1, p4, turn. Make 11 (12, 13) 7-st Rectangles as foll: Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. Rectangle 1: Row 1: Sl 1, k4, turn. Rectangles 3–11 (12, 13): With RS facing, pick up and knit 7 sts along Row 2: Sl 1, p3, p2tog (last st of rectangle Work as for Rectangle 2. next rectangle, turn. and first st of rectangle from previous Set-up row: (WS) Sl 1, p6, turn. tier), turn. Tier 6 Make 11 (12, 13) 9-st Rectangles. Row 1: Sl 1, k6, turn. Rep Rows 1 and 2 three more times. Rectangle 1: Row 2: Sl 1, p5, p2tog (last st of rectangle Next row: (RS) Sl 1, k4, turn. With RS facing, pick up and knit 9 sts along and first st of rectangle from previous Next row: Sl 1, p3, p3tog (last st of rectangle next rectangle, turn. tier), turn. and 2 rem sts of rectangle from previous Set-up row: (WS) Sl 1, p8, turn. Rep Rows 1 and 2 five more times. tier), do not turn. Row 1: Sl 1, k8, turn. Next row: (RS) Sl 1, k6, turn. Rectangle 2: Row 2: Sl 1, p7, p2tog (last st of rectangle Next row: Sl 1, p5, p3tog (last st of rectangle With WS still facing, pick up and purl 5 sts and first st of rectangle from previous and 2 rem sts of rectangle from previous along next rectangle, turn. tier), turn. tier), do not turn. Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1. Rep Rows 1 and 2 seven more times. Rectangle 2: Rectangles 3–11 (12, 13): Next row: (RS) Sl 1, k8, turn. With WS still facing, pick up and purl 7 sts Work as for Rectangle 2.

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Tier 1 Row 5: Sl 1, p1, turn. FiNiShiNG Make 11 (12, 13) 4-st Triangles as foll: Row 6: Sl 1, sssk (last st of rectangle and 2 rem Remove waste yarn from provisional CO Triangle 1: sts of rectangle from previous tier), turn. and place 84 (104, 126) sts on cir needle, With WS facing, pick up and purl 4 sts along Triangle 2: then place 84 (104, 126) sts from holder on next rectangle, turn. With RS still facing, pick up and knit 4 sts needle—168 (208, 252) sts. Set-up row: (RS) Sl 1, k3, turn. along next rectangle, turn. Next rnd: (RS) *[P1, M1P (see Glossary)] 84 Row 1: Sl 1, p3, turn. Work as for Triangle 1, beg with Row 1. (104, 126) times, pick up and purl 1 st at Row 2: Sl 1, k2, ssk (last st of triangle and Triangles 3–11 (12, 13): gap between right and left sides; rep from * once—338 (418, 506) sts. Pm and join in first st of rectangle from previous tier), Work as for Triangle 2. turn. the rnd. Row 3: Sl 1, p2, turn. Armhole Knit 5 rnds. Row 4: Sl 1, k1, sssk (last st of triangle and Next row: (RS) *P1, M1; rep from * to end— BO all sts loosely. first 2 sts of rectangle from previous tier), 88 (96, 104) sts. turn. Knit 5 rnds. BO all sts loosely. EUNNY JANG knits, spins, sews, and writes in Denver, Colorado.

glossary Make 1 Purlwise (M1P) With left needle tip, lift strand be- Invisible Provisional tween needles from back to front Cast-on (figure 1). Purl lifted loop (figure 2). Place a loose slipknot on needle held in your right hand. Hold waste yarn next to slipknot and around left thumb; hold working yarn over left index finger. *Bring needle for- ward under waste yarn, over work- ing yarn, grab a loop of working figure 1 yarn (figure 1), then bring needle to the front, over both , and grab a second loop (figure 2). Repeat from *. When you’re ready to work in the opposite direction, figure 1 pick out waste yarn to expose live stitches.

figure 2

figure 2

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CURVY SQUARES TEE Bonnie Paul

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Curvy SquareS Square 1: (WS) Pick up and purl 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts along edge of first tee triangle. Bonnie Paul Row 1: (RS) K7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) sts, ssk (last st of square and first st of triangle), turn. Row 2: Purl to end of square, turn. 1 1 1 Finished Size 31 ⁄2 (35, 39, 43, 46 ⁄2, 50 ⁄2)" bust circumference, slightly Rep Rows 1 and 2 until all sts of triangle have been worked, ending stretched. Sweater shown measures 35". with a RS row. Do not turn. Place sts on holder. Yarn Plymouth Yarn Mushishi (95% wool, 5% silk; 491 yd [449 m]/250 Square 2: (RS) *Pick up and knit 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts along edge of g): #10 purple/olive, 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4) skeins. next triangle, turn. Needles Size 8 (5 mm): 24" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if neces- Row 1: (WS) Purl to end of square, turn. sary to obtain the correct gauge. Row 2: K7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12), ssk (last st of square and first st of Notions Stitch holders; tapestry needle. triangle), turn. Gauge 16 sts and 20 rows = 4" in St st. Rep Rows 1 and 2 until all sts of triangle have been worked. Do not turn. Place sts on holder. Rep from * for Squares 3–10. On last square, NoteS do not place sts on holder. • Sweater is knit from the top down in one piece as entrelac in-the-round. For more details about this technique, download Eunny Jang’s tutorial 2nd tier: (10 squares of 9 [10, 11, 12, 13, 14] sts each) at knittingdaily Square 1: (RS) Pick up and knit 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts along edge of .com/media/p/24512.aspx. first square from previous tier. • In entrelac, the edges are often slipped on the joining edge. In this Row 1: (WS) P8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13), p2tog (last st of square and first st design, we work all edge stitches, which yields better stretch in the of square from previous tier), turn. fabric. Row 2: Knit to end of square, turn. • When picking up stitches, there will be fewer holes in the fabric if Rep Rows 1 and 2 until all sts of square from previous tier have been you pick up stitches as close to the corner as possible. worked, ending with a WS row. Do not turn. Place sts on holder. • Change skeins/colors at the beginning of a square/triangle to avoid Square 2: (WS) *Pick up and purl 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts along edge abrupt color changes in the middle of the square/triangle. of square from previous tier. • After each square is finished, place stitches on holder. Transfer Row 1: (RS) Knit to end of square, turn. stitches back to left needle as they are needed. Row 2: P8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13), p2tog (last st of square and first st of square from previous tier), turn. Upper BodY Rep Rows 1 and 2 until all sts of square from previous tier have been With the invisible provisional method (see Glossary), CO 70 (80, 90, worked. Do not turn. Place sts on holder. Rep from * for Squares 3–10. 100, 110, 120) sts loosely. Do not join. Note: This CO edge becomes On last square, do not place sts on holder. the long (bias) edge of the first row of triangles and will need to stretch quite a bit. Since it is a provisional CO and you will replace it later, it’s 3rd tier: (10 squares of 10 [11, 12, 13, 14, 15] sts each) better to err slightly on the side of too loose, rather than too tight. Square 1: (WS) Pick up and purl 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15) sts along edge Also, using waste yarn in a contrasting color (but similar gauge) will of first square from previous tier. make it easier to identify and remove provisional sts when you are Row 1: (RS) K9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14), ssk (last st of square and first st of finishing. square from previous tier), turn. Neck-edge triangles: (10 triangles of 7 [8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts each) Row 2: Purl to end of square, turn. triangle 1: Rep Rows 1 and 2 until all sts of square from previous tier have been Row 1: (WS) P2, turn. worked, ending with a RS row. Do not turn. Place sts on holder. Row 2 and all RS rows: Knit to end of triangle, turn. Square 2: (RS) *Pick up and knit 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15) sts along edge Row 3: P3, turn. of square from previous tier. Row 5: P4, turn. Row 1: (WS) Purl to end of square, turn. Cont in patt, adding 1 st to triangle every WS row until 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, Row 2: K9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14), ssk (last st of square and first st of 12) sts have been worked. Next row: (RS) Knit to end of triangle, turn. square from previous tier), turn. Next row: P7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12); do not turn. Place sts on holder. Rep Rows 1 and 2 until all sts of square from previous tier have been triangles 2–10: worked. Do not turn. Place sts on holder. Rep from * for Squares 3–10. Work as for Triangle 1. On last triangle, do not place sts on holder. Join On last square, do not place sts on holder. triangles at CO edge to form circle (being careful to not twist sts) on first tier as foll (Note: Change direction of knitting at each new tier of 4th tier and triangles for sleeves: squares or triangles throughout): On this row, you will be ending cap sleeves with triangles and adding underarm triangles. First tier: (10 squares of 8 [9, 10, 11, 12, 13] sts each) Square 1: (RS) Pick up and knit 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts along edge of

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first square from previous tier. Row 1: (WS) P8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13), p2tog (last st of square and first st of square from previous tier), turn. Row 2: Knit to end of square, turn. Rep Rows 1 and 2 until all sts of square from previ- ous row have been worked, ending with a WS tier. Do not turn. Place sts on holder. Sleeve triangle 1: (WS) Pick up and purl 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts along edge of next square from previous tier. Row 1: (RS) Knit to end of triangle, turn. Row 2: Purl to last st of triangle, p2tog (last st of triangle and first st of square from previous tier), turn. Row 3: Rep Row 1. Row 4: Rep Row 2. Row 5: Knit to last 2 sts, ssk, turn. Rep Rows 4 and 5 until 2 sts rem. P2tog; do not turn. Sleeve triangle 2: Pick up and purl 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 6th tier: 13) sts. Work as for Triangle 1. Square 1: Pick up and knit 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts. Work as for 2nd Square 2: Pick up and purl 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts. Work as for Square tier. 2 of 2nd tier. 7th tier: Squares 3 and 4: Pick up and purl 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts. Work as Square 1: Pick up and purl 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts. Work as for 3rd tier. Square 2. 8th tier: Sleeve triangles 3 and 4: Work as for Sleeve Triangles 1 and 2. Square 1: Pick up and knit 8 (8, 10, 11, 12, 14) sts. Work as for 2nd Squares 5 and 6: Work as for Squares 2 and 3. On last square, do not tier. place sts on holder. 9th tier: Square 1: Pick up and purl 7 (8, 10, 12, 13, 15) sts. Work as for 3rd UNderarm triaNGleS (make 2, oNe For each UNderarm) tier. *With a new skein of yarn and the provisional method, CO 9 (10, 11, 10th tier: 12, 13, 14) sts loosely. Make a triangle as for beginning neck triangles Square 1: Pick up and knit 7 (9, 11, 12, 14, 16) sts. Work as for 2nd as foll: tier. 1 1 triangle 1: Sizes 31 ⁄2 (35, 39, 43, 46 ⁄2)" only: Row 1: (WS) P2, turn. 11th tier: Row 2 and all RS rows: Knit to end of triangle, turn. Square 1: Pick up and purl 8 (10, 11, 13, 15) sts. Work as for 3rd tier. 1 Row 3: P3, turn. Sizes 31 ⁄2 (35, 39, 43)" only: Row 5: P4, turn. 12th tier: Cont in patt, adding 1 st to triangle every WS row until 9 (10, 11, 12, Square 1: Pick up and knit 9 (10, 12, 13) sts. Work as for 2nd tier. 1 13, 14) sts have been worked. Next row: Knit to end of triangle, turn. Sizes 31 ⁄2 (35, 39)" only: Next row: P9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14), do not turn. Place sts on holder. 13th tier: Fasten off. Rep from * for opposite underarm triangle. Attach to out- Square 1: Pick up and purl 9 (10, 12) sts. Work as for 3rd tier. 1 side corners of cap sleeve triangles as shown (see Underarm Triangle Size 31 ⁄2" only: Placement Guide). This will provide continuity when you cont the body 14th tier: in the next tier of squares. Square 1: Pick up and knit 9 sts. Work as for 2nd tier.

BodY eNd triaNGleS 1 Cont in rnds and shape body as foll: Sizes 35 (39, 46 ⁄2)" only: Pick up and knit 10 (12, 15) sts along edge 5th tier: (8 squares) of first square from previous tier. Square 1: Pick up and purl 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts. Work as for 3rd triangle 1: tier. Row 1: (WS) Purl to last st of triangle, p2tog (last st of triangle and

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first st of square from previous tier), turn. triangle 2: *Pick up and knit 8 (12, 15) sts along edge of square from Row 2: Knit to end of triangle, turn. previous tier. Row 3: Rep Row 1. Row 1: (WS) Purl to end of triangle, turn. Row 4: Knit to last 2 sts, ssk, turn. Row 2: Knit to last st of triangle, ssk (last st of triangle and first st of Rep Rows 3 and 4 until 3 sts rem. P3tog; do not turn. square from previous tier), turn. triangle 2: (WS) *Pick up and purl 9 (11, 14) sts along next square Row 3: Rep Row 1. from previous tier. Row 4: Rep Row 2. Row 1: (RS) Knit to end of triangle, turn. Row 5: Purl to last 2 sts, p2tog, turn. Row 2: Purl to last st of triangle, p2tog (last st of triangle and first st Rep Rows 4 and 5 until 3 sts rem. Sssk; do not turn. Rep from * for of square from previous tier), turn. Triangles 3–8. On last triangle, BO rem st. Row 3: Rep Row 1. Row 4: Rep Row 2. FiNiShiNG Row 5: Knit to last 2 sts, ssk, turn. Weave in ends. Block to dimensions. Neck: Remove provisional CO Rep Rows 4 and 5 until 3 sts rem. P3tog; do not turn. Rep from * for and transfer live sts to needle. Do not join. Join new yarn, taking care Triangles 3–8. On last triangle, BO rem st. to match color as closely as possible. With RS facing, BO all sts. Note: 1 1 Sizes 31 ⁄2 (43, 50 ⁄2)" only: Pick up and purl 9 (13, 16) sts along edge Neckline dimension can be adjusted slightly depending on how loosely of first square from previous tier. or tightly you BO. Rep for underarm sts. Weave in ends. Block again, if triangle 1: desired. Row 1: (RS) Knit to last st of triangle, ssk (last st of triangle and first st of square from previous tier), turn. Bonnie Paul began to crochet and knit as a much-needed respite while Row 2: Purl to end of triangle, turn. completing her doctoral work in psychology. Her focus as a knitwear Row 3: Rep Row 1. designer is creating elegant, wearable art. Row 4: Purl to last 2 sts, p2tog, turn. Rep Rows 3 and 4 until 3 sts rem. Sssk; do not turn. )"

28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38)" 2 ⁄ 71 (76, 81, 86, 91, 96.5) cm 1 , 9 2 ⁄ 1 , 8 4 ⁄ 3 , 7 2 ⁄ , 11, 12)" , 11, 1 2 ⁄ 1 ( 7, 7 , 10 4 ⁄ 2 ⁄ 1 1 16 (18, 19, 19.5, 21.5, 24) cm 24) 21.5, 19.5, 19, (18, 16 6 , 9 2 ⁄ 1 20.5 (21.5, 24, 26.5, 28, 30.5) 24, cm 20.5 (21.5, 8 (8

1 1 1 31 ⁄2 (35, 39, 43, 46 ⁄2, 50 ⁄2)" body

80 (89, 99, 109, 118, 128) cm )" 2 ⁄

1 Underarm Triangle

, 18 Placement Guide 2 ⁄ 1 1 1 1 24 (27 ⁄2, 35 ⁄4, 40, 43, 46 ⁄2)" sleeve triangles , 18 4 ⁄ 61 (70, 89.5, 101.5, 109, 118) cm 3

1 32 (35, 43, 46 ⁄2, 54, 58)" (17, 18, (17, 18 4 ⁄

81 (89, 109, 118, 137, 147) cm 3 42.5 (43, 46, 47.5, 47, 47) cm 47) 47, 46, (43, 42.5 47.5, 16 Attach new underarm triangles at corners

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Invisible (Provisional) Cast-On abbrevIatIOnS beg beginning; begin; begins Place a loose slipknot on needle held in your right hand. Hold waste bet between yarn next to slipknot and around left thumb; hold working yarn over BO bind off left index finger. *Bring needle forward under waste yarn, over working CC contrasting color yarn, grab a loop of working yarn (Figure 1), then bring needle to the front, cm centimeter(s) over both yarns, and grab a second loop (Figure 2). Repeat from *. When cn cable needle CO cast on you’re ready to work in the opposite direction, pick out waste yarn to cont continue(s); continuing expose live stitches. dec(s) decrease(s); decreasing dpn double-pointed needle(s) foll following; follows g gram(s) inc increase(s); increasing k knit k1f&b knit into front and back of same st Figure 2 Figure 1 k2tog knit two stitches together Illustrations by Gayle Ford kwise knitwise LC left cross m(s) marker(s) MC main color mm millimeter(s) M1 make one (increase) M1R (L) make one right (left) p purl p1f&b purl into front and back of same st p2tog purl two stitches together patt(s) pattern(s) pm place marker psso pass slipped stitch over p2sso pass two slipped stitches over pwise purlwise RC right cross rem remain(s); remaining rep repeat; repeating rev St st reverse stockinette stitch rib ribbing rnd(s) round(s) RS right side rev sc reverse single crochet sc single crochet sk skip sl slip sl st slip stitch (sl 1 st pwise unless otherwise indicated) ssk slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, k2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease) ssp slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, p2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease) st(s) stitch(es) St st stockinette stitch tbl through back loop tog together WS wrong side wyb with yarn in back wyf with yarn in front yo yarn over * repeat starting point (i.e., repeat from *) * * repeat all instructions between asterisks ( ) alternate measurements and/or instructions [ ] instructions that are to be worked as a group a specified number of times

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EntrElac socks EUNNY JANG

noteS u These socks are made in entrelac. See page 3 to learn more about this technique. u These socks are knitted from the toe up. u To reduce the number of ends left to weave in, carry the unused color along the wrong side as you work the first unit of each tier, catching the two colors together at the selvedge of the first unit, so the unused color will be in the correct position the next time it is needed. u You may find it helpful to place the stitches of the unit you are working on the same needle as the stitches that are being joined to the unit in progress.

Right Stocking With RS still facing, work Rows 1–9 once Toe: With MC and the Middle East–wrap more for 2nd base triangle. Rep Rows 1–9 CO method (see box), wrap yarn around 2 four more times in the same manner—36 dpn so there are 6 sts on each needle. Work sts rem; six 6-st base triangles. Distribute 1 rnd on all 12 sts, and on the next rnd, sts evenly on 3 dpn, two 6-st triangles on pick up and knit 2 sts along each side—16 each needle. Drop MC to WS of work. CC sts total. Redistribute sts evenly on 4 dpn: tier: Work all blocks of this tier using CC. 4 sts on each dpn. Place marker (pm) and 1st block: If this is the 1st CC tier, join join for working in the rnd, being careful CC with RS facing to 1st row of next base not to twist sts. Knit 1 rnd. Inc rnd: *On triangle in the “valley” between 2 trian- Needle 1, k1, M1 (see box), knit to end; on gles. If this is a later CC tier, beg working Needle 2, knit to last st, M1, k1; rep from with carried strand of CC, which should EUNNY JANG achieves an kilt- * on Needles 3 and 4—4 sts inc’d; 1 st be in a valley between 2 MC blocks. With sock look with her “woven” entrelac inc’d on each needle. Rep Inc rnd 11 more RS facing, pick up and knit 6 sts along socks. Eunny knits, spins, sews, and writes times—64 sts total: 16 sts on each needle. selvedge of next unit from 1st row to last in Denver, Colorado. Knit 1 rnd even, then rep Inc rnd once row of unit (base to tip), turn work so WS more—68 sts total: 17 sts on each needle. is facing. *P5, p2tog, turn, k6, turn; rep 1 Finished Size 7 ⁄2" foot circumference, Rep the last 2 rnds once more—72 sts: 18 from * 4 more times, p5, p2tog, do not 3 3 9 ⁄4" from back of heel to tip of toe, and 15" sts on each needle; toe measures about 1 ⁄4" turn—all sts from next unit have been high from top of heel flap to upper edge. from beg of CO. Note: For a longer foot, dec’d away; 1st block of CC tier complet- To fit women’s U.S. shoe sizes 8 to 9. work even in St st until toe measures 8" ed. 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th blocks: Yarn Koigu Premium Merino (100% less than desired total foot length; every With WS still facing, pick up and purl 6 merino; 170 yd [155 m]/50 g): #2151 light 3 rnds added will inc foot length by about sts along selvedge of next unit from last 1 teal (MC), 3 skeins; #2390.5 light beige ⁄4". Base triangles: Work all base triangles row to first row of unit (tip to base), turn (CC), 2 skeins. using MC. With RS facing, work as foll: work so RS is facing. *K6, turn, p5, p2tog, Needles Size 1 (2.25 mm): set of 5 Row 1: (RS) [Ssk] 2 times (see box), turn. turn; rep from * 5 more times, do not turn double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if Row 2: (WS) P2, turn. work after final p2tog—next block of CC necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Row 3: K2, ssk, turn. tier completed; all sts of next unit have Notions Marker (m); ; Row 4: P3, turn. been dec’d away. Work 3rd, 4th, 5th, and spare dpn same size or smaller than main Row 5: K3, ssk, turn. 6th blocks as for 2nd block—a total of six needles; tapestry needle. Row 6: P4, turn. 6-st blocks for CC tier. Redistribute sts if Gauge 17 sts and 22 rnds = 2" in St st Row 7: K4, ssk, turn. necessary onto 3 dpn, two 6-st units on worked in the rnd. Row 8: P5, turn. each needle. Drop CC to WS of work. Row 9: (RS) K5, ssk; do not turn— MC tier: Work all blocks of this tier with one 6-st base triangle completed from MC. 1st block: Beg working with carried 12 toe sts. strand of MC, which should be in a valley

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Return 18 held instep knit 6 sts along selvedge of next unit from triangle. Place sts for all 3 heel triangles sts to needles. With MC and needle tip to base, turn work so WS is facing. on same needle—36 heel sts total. Place holding sts of last heel triangle, with RS *P6, turn, k5, ssk, turn; rep from * 5 more rem 18 sts of three 6-st CC blocks on facing pick up and knit 6 sts along sel- times, do not turn work after final ssk— holder for instep. Short-row heel: Turn vedge of next CC block from tip to base, next block of MC tier completed; all sts work so WS is facing. Working on heel turn work so WS is facing. Work as for of next unit have been dec’d away. Work sts only, work short-rows (see box) using 4th, 5th, and 6th blocks of regular MC 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th blocks as for 2nd MC as foll: tier—36 sts, six 6-st units completed, 3 block—a total of six 6-st blocks for MC Row 1: (WS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in front heel ending triangles, and 3 regular MC tier. Redistribute sts if necessary onto 3 (wyf), p32, wrap next st, turn. blocks. Redistribute sts if necessary onto dpn, two 6-st units on each needle. Drop Row 2: (RS) K29, wrap next st, turn. 3 dpn, two 6-st triangles on each needle. MC to WS of work. Cont in this manner, Row 3: Purl to 1 st before wrapped st, Drop MC to WS of work. Leg: Resume alternating a CC tier with a MC tier, until wrap next st, turn. alternating a CC tier with a MC tier until a total of 5 CC tiers have been completed, Row 4: Knit to 1 st before wrapped st, 5 CC tiers have been completed above ending with a CC tier—piece measures wrap next st, turn. the heel, ending with a CC tier—piece about 6" from lowest point of 1st CC tier Rows 5–16: Rep Rows 3 and 4 six more measures about 6" from lowest point of 3 to highest point of last CC tier, and 7 ⁄4" times; Row 16 should have been worked 1st CC tier above heel to highest point of from toe CO to highest point of last CC as k15, wrap next st, turn—8 wrapped sts last CC tier. Note: For a longer or short- tier. Heel starting tier: 1st heel triangle: each side. er stocking, add or remove pairs of tiers With WS facing and MC, pick up and purl Row 17: (WS) P14 to 1 st before wrapped for desired length; every 2 tiers added or 7 sts along selvedge of next unit from base st, wrap next st, turn. removed will lengthen or shorten the leg 1 to tip, turn so RS is facing. Row 18: K15 to wrapped st, work wrapped length by about 1 ⁄4". MC inc tier: Work Row 1: (RS) K6, ssk, turn. st tog with its wrap, wrap next st, turn. inc tier blocks using MC. 1st block: With Row 2: (WS) P6, M1 pwise (see box), Row 19: P16 to wrapped st, work wrapped WS facing, pick up and purl 7 sts along turn. st tog with its wrap, wrap next st, turn. selvedge of next unit from base to tip, Row 3: Rep Row 1. Row 20: Knit to wrapped st, work turn work so RS is facing. *K6, ssk, turn, Row 4: P5, M1 pwise, turn. wrapped st tog with its wrap, wrap next p7, turn; rep from * 4 more times, k6, ssk, Row 5: K5, ssk, turn. st, turn. do not turn—one 7-st inc block com- Row 6: P4, M1 pwise, turn. Row 21: Purl to wrapped st, work wrapped pleted; all sts from next unit have been Row 7: K4, ssk, turn. st tog with its wrap, wrap next st, turn. dec’d away. 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th Row 8: P3, M1 pwise, turn. Rows 22–32: Rep Rows 20 and 21 five blocks: With RS still facing, pick up and Row 9: K3, ssk, turn. more times, then work Row 20 once more; knit 7 sts along selvedge of next unit from Row 10: P2, M1 pwise, turn. Row 32 should have been worked as k29, tip to base, turn work so WS is facing. Row 11: K2, ssk, do not turn—12 heel-tri- work wrapped st tog with its wrap, wrap *P7, turn, k6, ssk, turn; rep from * 5 more angle sts created from 6 block sts; all sts of next st, turn—1 wrapped st each side. times, but do not turn work after final next unit have been dec’d away. 2nd and Row 33: Purl to last st, working wrapped ssk—next block of MC tier completed; 3rd heel triangles: With RS still facing, st tog with its wrap, wrap last st, turn. all sts of next unit have been dec’d away. pick up and knit 7 sts along selvedge of Row 34: Knit to end, working wrapped st Work 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th blocks as for next unit from tip to base, turn work so tog with its wrap, turn. 2nd block—six 7-st blocks completed; WS is facing. Row 35: Sl 1 pwise wyf, purl to end, 42 sts. Redistribute sts if necessary onto Row 1: (WS) P7, turn. working rem wrapped st tog with its wrap, 3 dpn, two 7-st blocks on each needle. Row 2: (RS) K6, ssk, turn. turn—36 heel sts. Heel ending tier: Turn Drop MC to WS of work. CC 7-st tier: Row 3: P6, M1 pwise, turn. work so RS is facing, and with MC work With RS facing and CC, pick up and knit Row 4: Rep Row 2. Rows 1–9 as for base triangles—one 6-st 7 sts along selvedge of next unit from base Row 5: P5, M1 pwise, turn. base triangle completed from 12 heel sts. to tip, turn work so WS is facing. *P6, Row 6: K5, ssk, turn. With RS still facing, work Rows 1–9 of p2tog, turn, k7, turn; rep from * 5 more Row 7: P4, M1 pwise, turn. base triangle 2 more times in the same times, p6, p2tog, do not turn—all sts from

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next unit have been dec’d Row 7: K5, ssk, turn. ted. Fold the cuff in half along the fold line, away; 1st block of CC tier Row 8: P4, M1 pwise, turn. with the needles holding the live sts of Rnd completed. 2nd, 3rd, 4th, Row 9: K4, ssk, turn. 20 in front, and the spare needles with the 5th, and 6th blocks: With Row 10: P3, M1 pwise, turn. picked-up sts in back—84 sts on each set WS still facing, pick up and Row 11: K3, ssk, turn. of needles. BO sts tog as foll: K2tog (1st st purl 7 sts along selvedge of Row 12: P2, M1 pwise, turn. each on front and back needle), *yo, k2tog next unit from tip to base, Row 13: K2, ssk, do not turn—14 heel- (1 st each from front and back needle), pass turn so RS is facing. *K7, turn, p6, p2tog, triangle sts created from 7 block sts; all sts 1st st on right needle and yo both over the turn; rep from * 6 more times, do not turn of next unit have been dec’d away. 2nd, last st worked; rep from * to end. Break yarn work after final p2tog—next block of CC 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th top triangles: and fasten off last st. tier completed; all sts of next unit have With RS still facing, pick up and knit 8 sts been dec’d away. Work 3rd, 4th, 5th, and along selvedge of next unit from tip to base, Left Stocking 6th blocks as for 2nd block—a total of six turn so WS is facing. Work as for right stocking until Rnd 5 of 7-st blocks for CC tier. Redistribute sts if Row 1: (WS) P8, turn. cuff has been completed. Identify the purl necessary onto 3 dpn, two 7-st units on Row 2: (RS) K7, ssk, turn. column closest to the center of the outside each needle. Drop CC to WS of work. MC Row 3: P7, M1 pwise, turn. of the left leg (halfway between center front 7-st tier: With MC and WS facing, pick Row 4: Rep Row 2. and center back) and mark this column of up and purl 7 sts along selvedge of next Row 5: P6, M1 pwise, turn. sts; this should be on the opposite side of unit from base to tip, turn so RS is facing. Row 6: K6, ssk, turn. the leg from the right stocking. Work Rnds *K6, ssk, turn, p7, turn; rep from * 5 more Row 7: P5, M1 pwise, turn. 6–20 and complete as for right stocking. times, k6, ssk, do not turn—one 7-st inc Row 8: K5, ssk, turn. block completed; all sts from next unit have Row 9: P4, M1 pwise, turn. finiShing been dec’d away. 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and Row 10: K4, ssk, turn. Weave in ends. Tassels: Make 4 tassels, 6th blocks: With RS still facing, pick up Row 11: P3, M1 pwise, turn. 2 each in MC and CC, as foll: Wrap yarn and knit 7 sts along selvedge of next unit Row 12: K3, ssk, turn. 40 times around a piece of cardboard at least from tip to base, turn work so WS is fac- Row 13: P2, M1 pwise, turn. 3" tall, then with another strand of yarn tie ing. *P7, turn, k6, ssk, turn; rep from * 6 Row 14: K2, ssk; do not turn— 14 top- loops tightly at top (tassel “head”). Cut more times, do not turn work after final triangle sts created from 7 block sts; all sts loops at bottom edge of cardboard. Wrap 1 ssk—next block of MC tier completed; of next unit have been dec’d away. Work yarn tightly around all strands about ⁄2" all sts of next unit have been dec’d away. 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th top triangles same down from the top (tassel “neck”). Trim Work 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th blocks as for as 2nd top triangle—84 sts, six 14-st units. loose ends even. Twisted cord: Cut four 90" 2nd block—a total of six 7-st blocks for Redistribute sts evenly on 3 needles if strands of yarn, two each in MC and CC. MC tier. Redistribute sts if necessary onto necessary. Cuff: Make two twisted cords (see box), each 3 dpn, two 7-st units on each needle. Drop Rnd 1: Knit 1 rnd on all sts. containing one strand of each color. Thread MC to WS of work. Alternate a CC 7-st Rnds 2–5: Work 4 rnds in k1, p1 rib. end of cord on tapestry needle and thread tier with a MC 7-st tier until there are a Rnd 6: (outer eyelet rnd) Identify the purl through cuff as foll: Enter the cuff from out- total of 11 CC tiers above the heel (five column closest to the center of the outside side of stocking through left outer eyelet, 6-st CC tiers and six 7-st CC tiers), ending of the right leg (halfway between cen- weave cord in and out of inner eyelet holes with a CC tier—piece measures about 14" ter front and center back) and mark this around top of stocking, and exit the cuff from lowest point of 1st CC tier above heel column of sts. Work in established rib to through the right outer eyelet. Sew a MC to highest point of last CC tier. Note: For 5 sts before marked purl column, ssk, yo, tassel to one end of cord and CC tassel to a longer or shorter stocking, add or remove [k1, p1] 3 times, ssk, yo, work in established other end. Rep for second stocking. Block pairs of tiers for desired length; every two rib to end—2 yo eyelet holes completed. lightly, if desired. Tie cords as shown. 7-st tiers added or removed will lengthen Rnds 7–10: Work 4 rnds in k1, p1 rib. 1 or shorten the leg length by about 1 ⁄2". Cut Rnd 11: Purl 1 rnd for fold line—cuff mea- CC. Top triangles: Work all top triangles sures about 1" from pick-up rnd. using MC. 1st triangle: With WS facing, Rnds 12–15: Work 4 rnds in k1, p1 rib. pick up and purl 8 sts along selvedge of next Rnd 16: (inner eyelet rnd) *K1, yo, k2tog, unit from base to tip, turn so RS is facing. p1; rep from * to end of rnd—21 eyelet Row 1: (RS) K7, ssk, turn. holes completed. Row 2: (WS) P7, M1 pwise, turn. Rnds 17–20: Work 4 rnds in k1, p1, rib. Row 3: Rep Row 1. Using spare dpns, pick up the purl bump Row 4: P6, M1 pwise, turn. on the WS of each st in cuff Rnd 1 by slip- Row 5: K6, ssk, turn. ping the needle into each bump; these sts Row 6: P5, M1 pwise, turn. are just picked up, not picked up and knit-

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Middle East–Wrap Cast-On Ssk Decrease Snugly wrap the working yarn counterclock- wise around two needles. Bring the yarn for- ward between needles, back to front (Fig- Figure 1 ure 1). Knit across stitches on upper needle Figure 2 Figure 1 (Figure 2). Rotate the work and knit across Figure 2 the same number of stitches on the other Slip two stitches knitwise one at a time needle (Figure 3). On the third row, pick (Figure 1). Insert point of left needle into up two stitches along each side (Figure 4). front of two slipped stitch es and knit them together through back loops with Figure 4 right needle (Figure 2).

Raised (M1) Increases Purlwise (M1P) Twisted Cord

Cut several lengths of yarn Left Slant (M1L) about five times the desired Figure 1 Figure 2 finished cord length. Fold the With left needle tip, lift strand between needles Figure 1 strands in half to form two from front to back (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop equal groups. Anchor the through the back (Figure 2). strands at the fold by looping Figure 1 Figure 2 them over a doorknob. Hold- Right Slant (M1R) ing one group in each hand, Figure 2 twist each group tightly in a clockwise direction With left needle tip, until they begin to kink. Put both groups in one Figure 1 Figure 2 lift strand between hand, then release them, allowing them to twist With left needle tip, lift strand between needles needles, from back to around each other counterclockwise. Smooth from back to front (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop front (Figure 1). Purl out the twists so that they are uniform along the through the front (Figure 2). lifted loop (Figure 2). length of the cord. Knot the ends.

Short Rows: Wrapping a Stitch Knitted Cast-On Work to turn point, slip next stitch Place slipknot on left needle if there are no estab- purlwise to right needle. Bring yarn to lished stitches. *With right needle, knit into first front (Figure 1). Slip same stitch back stitch (or slipknot) on left needle (Figure 1) and to left needle (Figure 2). Turn work and place new stitch onto left needle (Figure 2). Repeat Figure 1 bring yarn in position for next stitch, from *, always knitting into last stitch made. wrapping the stitch as you do so. Note: Hide wraps in a knit stitch when right side of piece is worked in a knit stitch. Leave wrap if the purl stitch shows on right side. Hide wraps as follows: Knit Figure 2 stitch: On right side, work to just before Figure 1 Figure 2

wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from front, under the wrap Illustrations by Gayle Ford from bottom up, and then into wrapped stitch as usual. Knit them together, making sure new stitch comes out under wrap. Purl stitch: On wrong side, work to just before wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from back, under wrap from bottom up, and put on left needle. Purl them together.

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