● JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2013

HENGDUANTATSUO MOUNTAINS (TIM) INOUE CLUB FoTherbid Firstden & Ascent Spect aofc uLopchinlar Sert hFengar B u(KG-2)ddhist 6,805m Institute TibAutumnetan Bu d2009dhis mExpedition Largest A toca dtheem Kangriy beyo nGarpod Sno wEasty M Mountains,ountains in STibetichuan

In 1980, Jigme Phuntsok founded Serthar Institute, known as Buddhist Academy, in the Larung Valley near Sêrtar town, Garzê Prefecture, Province. See the map below. The purpose of the Institute has been to provide an ecumenical training in and to meet the need for renewal of meditation and scholarship all over in the wake of ’s of 1966 – 76.

Map-1 Climbing route to Lopchin Feng

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The institute is close to the fascinating mountain ranges being situated in the northeast of Chola Shan, north of Gangga massif of Shaluli Shan, Kawarori massif of Gongkala Shan, and northwest of the northern rim of Daxue Shan range.

Despite its remote location, it grew from a handful of disciples gathering in Khenpo’s home to be one of the largest and most influential centers for the study of Tibetan Buddhism in the world, numbering to nearly 10,000 monks, nuns, and lay disciples by the year 2000.

Overall, the student body of Serthar Institute was made up of monks, nuns, lay “vow-holders” of both Tibetan and Chinese origins, and tantric practitioners. They studied under four major religious divisions in the Institute: Ngarig Nangten Lobling, International Religious Committee, Pema Khandro Duling Nunnery, and Lektso Charbeb Ling. Ngarig Nangten Lobling consisted of 2,500 Tibetan monks. Lektso Charbeb Ling is the section that trained over 1,000 lay Tibetan “vow-holders” and tantric practitioners from Sêrtar and other regions of Tibet.

Pema Khandro Duling Nunnery was the home for study to approximately 3,500 – 4,000 nuns from all regions of Tibet. More than half of those who came to Serthar were women and the curriculum allowed nuns to achieve a coveted Khenpo degree for the first time in Tibetan history. Entry into the relatively small number of nunneries that exist in other areas of Tibet is limited, but Serthar was open to virtually anyone who genuinely sought to become a student of Khenpo Jigme Phuntsok’s ecumenical vision. Khenpo’s niece, Jetsunma Mumso, was recognized as a and heads the order of nuns. The term is descriptive of certain teachers in Tibet who are thought to reincarnate over a number of generations.

Roughly ten percent of the nearly 10,000 students attending Serthar were ethnic Han people. They attended separate classes taught in while larger classes were taught in Standard Tibetan. The International Religious Committee oversaw 1,000 disciples from regions of the People’s Republic of China and students from other Asian countries.

Serthar Institute has operated with a standing executive committee of seven learned , but major decisions were confirmed and implemented only after consultation with Khenpo Jigme Phuntsok. Serthar Institute has been home to over 500 – holders of Bachelor's degrees in divinity – and widely renowned for the high quality of both its religious and secular education. English, Chinese, and Tibetan languages and modern computer studies have been taught alongside traditional non- sectarian Buddhist curriculum. The photos are shown below.

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45 On Top of the World: The New Millennium Richard Sale Eberhard Jurgalski George Rodway

ISBN 978-0-9571732-0-0 280 × 220mm 248 pages with 240 colour photos, 25 archival black & white images and 21 route maps. Published 1 May 2012

This new book looks at the development of climbing on the world’s highest mountains – the 14 whose summits stand above the 8000 metre contour. Though concentrating on the new millennium, from 2000 to 2011, with an epilogue on 2011, the book also covers the first ascent of the mountains, and the new routes climbed between the first ascent and 1999. A sequel to On Top of the World, published in 2000 which dealt with the discovery and early climbing history of the mountains, the book also uses new material which has come to light over the last decade to re-appraise the first ascents on Annapurna, Broad Peak and K2. Illustrated with stunning images for the new routes established during the new millennium, the book also includes archival shots from the early history of the mountains. These archival shots include first ascent shots from two of the mountains which had not been made available for the earlier book. The book is completed with data on the mountains provided by co-author Eberhard Jurgalski, who maintains the world’s most up-to-date database on these (and other) mountains. The data include all climbers who have summitted all 14 mountains (a figure which now stands at an astonishing 28) as well as those who are nearing the complete set. Sadly some of the latter have died in the attempt and will never achieve their goal.

For further details contact Richard Sale (01242 870245 or [email protected]). 46