Gisele Bündchen Photographed by Terry Richardson

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20 EDITOR’S LETTER 26 CONTRIBUTORS 28 ON ThE COvER 30 COLUMNISTS on Innovation 112 STILL LIFE Marc Newson The renowned designer shares a few of his favorite things. Photography by Annabel Elston

What’s News.

33 Film Heiress Gia Coppola’s First Movie Photography by Mona Kuhn Styling by Jacqui Getty A Brief History of Space Tourism

36 Lace Gets an Update Photographer Dennis Stock’s American Cool Luxe Teatime Tableware

38 Four Cutting-Edge Watches Renzo Piano Expands the Kimbell Art Museum

40 Shigeru Ban Reimagines a Cathedral in Cardboard Brazil’s Joaquim Tenreiro Shows in New York Art Inspired by the Perfume Miss Dior

42 Designer Paola Navone Goes Global Dermatology Influenced by Mother Nature

44 Rob Lowe’s Pitch-Perfect JFK Performance Andermatt: Winter’s Hottest Swiss Destination Mark Fletcher and Vito Schnabel Team Up

Market report.

47 CLEaN SwEEp Things aren’t so black and white when a dash of pink is added to otherwise simple pairings. Photography by Jennifer Livingston Styling by Zara Zachrisson

on the cover Daft Punk and Gisele Bündchen photographed by Terry Richardson. Styling by George Cortina. On Bündchen: Atelier Versace jumpsuit, price upon request, 888-721-7219. On Daft Punk: Saint Laurent Stage Wear by Hedi Slimane. thIS PAGe Photography by Jennifer Livingston. Styling by Zara Zachrisson. Balenciaga hat, $1,085, Barneys New York, shirt, $925, Nordstrom, shorts, $855, 212-206-0872, bracelet, 47 $525, Kirna Zabete, and bag, $2,650, Bergdorf Goodman, and Sold exclusively in Louis Vuitton stores and on louisvuitton.com. Van Cleef & Arpels ring, $5,450, vancleefarpels.com.

1113_WSJ_TOC_02.indd 13 10/3/13 12:13 PM 10032013113646

94 55 the exchange. innovators issue.

55 TRACKED: Mark Parker 70 DAFT PUNK 94 ALICE WATERS Nike’s CEO combines technical savvy With the success of their fourth A pioneer of farm-to-table cuisine, with a sophisticated aesthetic. studio album, the robot duo have Waters has changed the way By Christopher Ross made 2013 their knockout year. Americans think about food. Photography by Michael Friberg By Brian Raftery By Howie Kahn Photography by Terry Richardson Photography by William Abranowicz 60 CLICK, BID, COLLECT Styling by George Cortina Three companies are seeking to 100 DO HO SUH York new avenue madison 870 revolutionize the process of buying 78 NICK D’ALOISIO Suh’s work investigates the idea of art online. The 18-year-old became an overnight home—and what it means to belong By Ellen Gamerman millionaire by inventing an app that in the 21st century. revolutionizes how we read on the go. By Julie L. Belcove By Seth Stevenson Photography by James Mollison 64 SUPERCHARGED Photography by David Bailey The Croation engineer who built the world’s fastest electric car is writing 106 THOMAS WOLTZ the blueprint for the next generation 82 DAVID ADJAYE The rising star of landscape design of supercars. With his plans for the Smithsonian’s takes on the greening of New York’s By Andy Isaacson African American museum, Adjaye Hudson Yards development. is forging a new kind of global By Alastair Gordon architecture. Photography by Adrian Gaut 66 A LIGHT TOUCH By Ian Volner Michael Anastassiades has earned mid- Photography by Sze Tsung Leong career acclaim for his minimal designs. By Jen Renzi 88 PAT McGRATH GET WSJ. SATURDAY A Saturday-only subscription to From runways to research labs, the The Wall Street Journal gives a weekly fix of smart style and highly inventive makeup artist sets culture. Includes OFF DUTY, a guide to your not-at-work life; REVIEW, the best in ideas, books and culture; and, trends season after season. of course, the monthly WSJ. Magazine. 1-888-681-9216 or By Derek Blasberg www .subscribe.wsj.com/getweekend. Follow us on Twitter

Photography by Ben Hassett and Instagram @WSJMag. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: TERRY RICHARDSON; MICHAEL FRIBERG; WILLIAM ABRANOWICZ Between now and 2060, the United States is projected to grow by

90 million people. Almost all the growth will happen in cities. How can Inc. we create thriving communities here and around the world? oup Citigr of

Developer Jonathan Rose has a vision: Rejuvenate neighborhoods s to create affordable and environmentally responsible housing close to mark e jobs, schools, parks, healthcare and mass transit. For years, Citi has rvic se d

been helping to do exactly that. So, we are collaborating with Jonathan re te to invest in the revitalization of urban areas across the United States, gis re including Chicago, Washington D.C., Newark and beyond. e

For over 200 years, Citi’s job has been to believe in people and to help Design ar c make their ideas a reality. Inc. Citi and Citi with Ar

#progressmakers oup 13 Citigr 20 © editor’s letter AND THE AWARD GOES TO...

ILLUSTRATION BY ALEJANDRO CARDENAS

VICTORIOUS CHIC Anubis and Bast, both in Calvin Klein Collection, posing with an Innovator Award at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. calibre de cartier Chronograph 1904-Ch MC

LTHOUGH THE WORD “innovation” brings to like the plump tomatoes her parents grew in their Innovation is also built on hard work and deter- mind futuristic gadgets and sneaker-clad backyard. Artist Do Ho Suh’s pieces subtly reference mination, so it’s inspiring to recall the example of The 1904-Ch MC, The new auToMaTiC winding Chronograph MoveMenT, was ConCeived, developed coders, as we assembled our third annual the familiar environs of his former homes, while archi- 25-year-old Croatian engineer Mate Rimac. At one and asseMbled by The CarTier ManufaCTure in The greaTesT waTChMaking TradiTion. This MoveMenT Innovators issue—celebrating talents who tect David Adjaye called upon his African roots when point in the process of designing the world’s fastest is equipped wiTh ingenious sysTeMs for uTMosT preCision: a ColuMn wheel To CoordinaTe all Ahave revolutionized their respective fields—we dis- designing his career-crowning National Museum of electric car, he sold all his belongings, just to make covered that even the most groundbreaking ideas can African American History and Culture in Washington, rent. Today, he employs 22 people. No one ever said The Chronograph funCTions, a verTiCal CluTCh designed To iMprove The aCCuraCy of sTarTing spring from the familiar. D.C. Fashion Innovator Pat McGrath’s career as a changing the world was easy! and sTopping The TiMing funCTion, a linear reseT funCTion, and a double barrel To ensure Daft Punk, the Entertainment Innovator who makeup artist also began in childhood, during weekly unrivaled TiMekeeping. shares the cover with supermodel Gisele Bündchen, excursions with her mother to cosmetics counters, produced one of 2013’s catchiest tunes, “Get Lucky,” by while landscape architect Thomas Woltz, our Design 42 MM Case and braCeleT in sTeel, MeChaniCal ManufaCTure Chronograph MoveMenT, self-winding, resurrecting a danceable ’70s sound—and, with it, the Innovator, grew up on a farm, which honed his con- Calibre 1904-Ch MC (35 jewels, 28,800 vibraTions per hour, approxiMaTely 48 hour power reserve), idea of marketing a blockbuster studio album, Random cept for urban renewal. Tech prodigy Nick D’Aloisio Calendar aperTure aT 6 o’CloCk, sTeel oCTagonal Crown, silver opaline snailed dial, silver Access Memories. Humanitarian Innovator Alice dreamed up his breakthrough summarization app, Kristina O’Neill finished ChaMfers. Waters reengineered the way children eat by return- Summly, by addressing a familiar 21st-century need: [email protected] ing them to the simple pleasure of locally sourced food, finding a simpler, faster way to read things on the go. Instagram: kristina_oneill rtier Ca 3 01

20 wsj. magazine ©2 explore and shop www.CarTier.us - 1-800-CarTier Image shot with Olympus OM-D by David Bengtsson

• Size: 5.1” (W) x 3.7” (H) x 2.5” (D)* The powerfully portable Olympus OM-D E-M1 is one of the smallest and lightest • Weight: 17.5 ounces* INTRODUCING A CAMERA cameras in its class. You get all the features you want, such as an ultra-large EVF, Dual • Ergonomic and comfortable in your hands FAST Autofocus System and dust, splash and freezeproof technology, in a compact, *E-M1 body only AS NIMBLE lightweight body. So unlike a bulky DSLR, it can go where you go. And since Micro Four AS YOU ARE. Thirds lenses are smaller and lighter, yet still fast and powerful enough to capture incredible images, you can tell amazing stories from anywhere. www.getolympus.com/em1

Move into a New World . od Wo rt Po ie en lv Ba e Th is ion

Editor in ChiEf Kristina O’Neill ess pr

CrEativE dirECtor Magnus Berger ex ite

ExECutivE Editor Chris Knutsen ur vo fa

Managing Editor Brekke Fletcher s d’

fashion nEws/fEaturEs dirECtor Elisa Lipsky-Karasz publishEr Anthony Cenname ar global advErtising dirECtor Stephanie Arnold ch Ri dEsign dirECtor Pierre Tardif businEss ManagEr Julie Checketts Andris brand dirECtor Jillian Maxwell photography dirECtor Jennifer Pastore Coordinator Molly Dahl

sEnior Editor Megan Conway ExECutivE ChairMan, nEws Corp Rupert Murdoch ChiEf ExECutivE, nEws Corp Robert Thomson MEn’s stylE dirECtor David Farber prEsidEnt, ChiEf ExECutivE offiCEr, dow JonEs & CoMpany, publishEr, thE wall strEEt Journal Lex Fenwick fashion MarkEt/aCCEssoriEs dirECtor David Thielebeule Editor in ChiEf, thE wall strEEt Journal Gerard Baker sEnior dEputy Managing Editor, thE wall strEEt Journal MEn’s stylE Editor Tasha Green Michael W. Miller Editorial dirECtor, wsJ. wEEkEnd Ruth Altchek MarkEt Editor Preetma Singh ChiEf rEvEnuE offiCEr, thE wall strEEt Journal art dirECtor Tanya Moskowitz Michael F. Rooney vp global MarkEting Nina Lawrence photo Editor Damian Prado hEad of digital advErtising and intEgration Romy Newman assoCiatE Editor Christopher Ross vp stratEgy and opErations Evan Chadakoff vp MultiMEdia salEs Christina Babbits, Copy ChiEf Minju Pak Elizabeth Brooks, Chris Collins, Ken DePaola, Etienne Katz, Mark Pope, Robert Welch produCtion dirECtor Scott White vp vErtiCal MarkEts Marti Gallardo vp ad sErviCEs Paul Cousineau rEsEarCh ChiEf John O’Connor vp intEgratEd MarkEting solutions Michal Shapira He knows American oak from European by touch. He’s not ExECutivE dirECtor MarkEting Paul Tsigrikes superman. But he has been reviving bourbon barrels and sherry Junior dEsignEr Dina Ravvin ExECutivE dirECtor, wsJ CustoM studios Randa Stephan dirECtor, EvEnts & proMotion Sara Shenasky butts for over half his life. This wood is what slowly breathes assistant photo Editor Hope Brimelow CrEativE dirECtor Bret Hansen character into The Balvenie. That’s how important it is. priCing and stratEgy ManagEr Verdell Walker Editorial assistant Raveena Parmar ad sErviCEs, MagazinEs ManagEr Elizabeth Bucceri So day after day is spent caring for the casks that control time. fashion assistants Katie Quinn Murphy, Sam Pape Hammering and punching to repair: charring and burning to

wEb Editors Robin Kawakami, Seunghee Suh rejuvenate. It took years working out how everything goes together. But now he knows what holds the future. Contributing Editors Alexa Brazilian, Michael Clerizo, WSJ. Issue 41, November 2013, Copyright 2013, Dow Jones Kelly Crow, Celia Ellenberg, Jason Gay, and Company, Inc. All rights reserved. See the magazine online at www.wsjmagazine.com. Reproduction in whole Jacqui Getty, Joshua Levine, J.J. Martin, or in part without written permission is prohibited. WSJ. Sarah Medford, Meenal Mistry, Anita Sarsidi Magazine is provided as a supplement to The Wall Street Journal for subscribers who receive delivery of the Saturday Weekend Edition and on newsstands. WSJ. Magazine is not Contributing spECial proJECts dirECtor Andrea Oliveri available for individual retail sale. For Customer Service, please call 1-800-JOURNAL (1-800-568-7625), send email to [email protected], or write us at: 84 Second Avenue, spECial thanks Tenzin Wild Chicopee, MA 01020. For Advertising inquiries, please email us at [email protected]. For reprints, please call 800-843-0008, email [email protected], or visit our reprints Web address at www.djreprints.com.

1113_WSJ_Masthead_01.indd 24 9/26/13 12:50 PM 09262013122212 Terry richardson, Brian rafTery & derek BlasBerg Daft punk p. 70 | On the COver p. 28

WSJ.’s Entertainment Innovator of the year, Daft Punk, left photographer Terry Richardson (near right, with the band) and writer Brian Raftery (bottom right) in little doubt of the robot duo’s influence and originality. Of their latest record, Random Access Memories, Raftery says, “What is particularly innovative about it is they looked to the past as much as to the future. It does feel kind of timeless. I don’t think in 30 years we’ll listen to this album and think it was recorded in 2013.” On interviewing the group’s fellow cover star, Gisele Bündchen, for On the Cover, contributor Derek Blasberg (top right, with Bündchen) says, “Gisele is intoxicating. That face, that body, the energy, the joy. She is the most beautiful show on earth.”

david Bailey & seTh sTevenson Third row, from niCk D'alOisiO p. 78

Technology prodigy and WSJ. Innovator of the year, Nick D’Aloisio may only be 18 years old, but he made a very grown-up impression on writer Seth Stevenson and photographer evenson. David Bailey. “He is terrifyingly poised, sharply intelligent and well-read,” says Stevenson (near left). “He is eerily smart and has this competitive drive. But he’s still a regular kid, wearing A Bathing Ape T-shirt.” Bailey agrees: “It’s great to find someone so young who is so positive.”

JaMes Mollison & Julie l. Belcove Tesy of danielle friberg; dina ravvin DO hO suh p. 100

Photographer James Mollison and writer Julie L. Belcove, tasked with capturing Art Innovator Do Ho Suh, were impressed by his easygoing personality. “He was very personable and warm,” Belcove says. “We connected—he was about to have his second daughter, and I have two daughters.” Mollison was struck by the sparseness of Suh’s London studio, especially compared to his larger-than-life installations. “I was hoping there would be a piece in progress, but he works at such a scale that his art is often built for the space. Instead, it was more of a place where he went and thought about his work.”

Mona kuhn & Jacqui geTTy COming up COppOla p. 33

For Mona Kuhn, photographing Gia Coppola meant creating a relaxed atmosphere for her soft-spoken subject. “There was this certain youth to her, a vulnerability,” says Kuhn (far left). “I wanted her to feel comfortable. She played the Ramones on set. We made it very intimate.” For stylist Jacqui Getty, the shoot was a rare opportunity to combine her

job with the role of being Gia’s mother. “It was really fun to work with my daughter,” says Th row, from lefT: mona kuhn; james franco. fifTh row, from lefT : cour Getty. “It was a family affair! It was very sweet.” on. four

Michael friBerg & chrisTopher ross traCkeD: mark parker p. 55

Touring Nike headquarters with CEO Mark Parker was a Willy Wonka–esque experience for WSJ. Associate Editor Christopher Ross. “The research lab is cool,” says Ross (far right). “There was a robot mannequin that actually sweats. Olympian Ashton Eaton was test-driving gear on a track.” Photographer Michael Friberg was impressed by Parker’s unassuming

nature. “There was a guitar sitting in the corner. I asked him if he played, and he said, ‘Not T: amber mollison; jennifer livingsT lef really, that’s Jimi Hendrix’s guitar.’ It was buried behind some frames, not on display at all.” Top row, clockwise from lefT: Terry richardson; derek blasberg; courTesy of brian rafTery. second row, from lefT: david bailey; courTesy of seTh sT

26 wsj. magazine

1113_WSJ_Contribs_03.indd 26 10/7/13 3:06 PM 10072013140845 Approved with warnings ON THE COVER NUMBER-ONE STUNNER How supermodel Gisele Bündchen leveraged keen business instincts and a lingerie deal to become the world’s highest-paid model— and why the fashion industry has been catching up to her ever since.

ISELE BÜNDCHEN MAY be the most powerful FASHIONABLE LIFE model in the world—but that’s not what she Clockwise from near right: Bündchen posted prefers to call herself. “I’m self-employed,” this photo of herself says the 33-year-old Brazilian. “[Modeling and stylist George Ghas] always been a business.” This year, she topped Cortina on Instagram, where she has over Forbes’s list of highest-paid models for the seventh 700,000 followers, on year in a row, beating out the likes of Kate Moss and the day of her WSJ. Miranda Kerr by tens of millions of dollars. The maga- cover shoot; the model in a 2011 ad for Isabel zine reported that she made $42 million, though she Marant; with her rolls her eyes at the figure. “Who are they speaking husband, Tom Brady, at to when they come up with these numbers? Not my the Costume Institute gala in 2013; in a Chanel accountant, that’s for sure.” Whether the number ad from this fall. strikes her as high or low, she leaves unsaid. How did Bündchen, who was scouted at a shopping mall in her native Rio Grande do Sul when she was 14, rise from mere model to multiplatform business of Brazilian martial art capoeira. “You’re always try- tycoon? Selectivity, she says. After becoming the most ing to balance everything, but it can’t be 100 percent in-demand face and body on the runways of Paris and all the time. Sometimes when you are a great mom, Milan in the late 1990s—in 1999, Vogue put her on the you’re not so great at your job. And then when you’re TOP MODEL cover and declared “The Return of the Sexy Model”— good at your job, you’re not so great of a mom or a Clockwise from right: she developed a knack for taking exactly the right good wife. It’s a dance that never stops. But it’s beauti- On the Harper’s Bazaar cover, February 2001; steps in her career at exactly the right times. ful. I’ve never been happier.” on the Victoria’s High risk yields high reward, and nothing was more Bündchen’s packed days are meticulously orga- Secret runway in 2002; risky than her decision to sign with Victoria’s Secret in nized on her iPhone with the Cozi app, which synchs walking the runway for Givenchy in 2012; 2000, making her one of the first in her field to bridge the entire family schedule, from kids’ play dates to in Boston with her the once-taboo divide between luxury fashion edito- her press appointments to Brady’s football practices. children, husband and rials and commercial work. It was a canny maneuver Every single hour is accounted for and each family dog, Lua, this past May; on the cover of that proved light-years ahead of the rest of the fash- member is color-coordinated: She is purple, Brady is French Vogue’s June/ ion industry, though such high-low blurring has blue, and when the whole family needs to be at the July issue, 2012. since become the norm. After Bündchen signed with same place, it’s in red. “I know what everyone is doing Victoria’s Secret, it ballooned from a prosaic bra brand every second of the day,” says Bündchen. into a lingerie powerhouse with a world-famous fash- Most mornings start around 6 a.m. Before heading ion show—ultimately helping to net her a reported either to her home office, where she works on her own $25 million per year. (She wore the company’s famed fashion and accessories lines, or to a modeling job, she Angel wings for the last time in 2007.) She inked lucra- spends time with the children. (The couple has homes tive deals with luxury brands such as Chanel and David in Boston, New York and Los Angeles.) Vivian comes Yurman. Anne Nelson, her agent since she was 17, says with her to photo shoots. “If I’m with my kids, I’m not that in Brazil, “she is a god.” answering my phone. You can’t reach me. With my These days, Bündchen is picky about which jobs husband, too. If I’m at work, then I’m at work. If I’m she takes not because she’s cultivating an image but with you, I’m with you. I am in that moment, and there because of domestic obligations. In 2009, she mar- is nothing else.” The family prefers dinner at home, ried Tom Brady, quarterback of the New England and Bündchen and Brady are rarely seen out at social Patriots, and is now mother to Benjamin, 3, and Vivian, occasions. One exception is the annual Met Costume 8 months, and stepmother to Brady’s son, 6-year-old Institute gala in New York City, where they are consis- John Edward Thomas, from his previous relationship. tently one of the glossiest couples on the red carpet. berluti.com “When you’re by yourself you only make decisions for While work and family commitments dominate yourself. But when you have a family, you’re making Bündchen’s schedule, she says her trick to keeping decisions for your whole family.” She now turns down it together is her hour. “It’s important to me to have multimillion-dollar jobs if they require her to leave the some time for myself. So one hour a day is mine. It Jeremy Irons, initiated by Peter Sellers country or have obligatory personal appearance days may have to be at 4 a.m. or whenever the kids are in the contract. napping or not home, but it’s in the schedule. I read When asked to describe how she manages the roles a book. I meditate. I make something. I need to nour- of wife, mother and supermodel, she offers a meta- ish myself in order for me to give to everyone else.” © JAMES HAYNES/SPLASH NEWS/CORBIS FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: COURTESY OF ISABEL MARANT; PHOTO BY DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/BAZAAR; GETTY; © REUTERS/CORBIS; FIRSTVIEW.COM; INEZ AND VINOODH/TRUNK ARCHIVE; phor: Ginga, the basic back-and-forth swaying step —Derek Blasberg GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY OF IMG MODELS; COURTESY OF CHANEL; COURTESY OF HARPER’S

28 WSJ. MAGAZINE

1113_WSJ_OntheCover_02.indd 28 10/1/13 2:03 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT soapbox the columnists WSJ. asks six luminaries to weigh in on a single topic. This month: Innovation.

nick nASSiM Ann Dr. MinDy chriStinA cAve tALeB pAtchett LUke kALing toSi

“I’ve always been a “If you look at the “I wouldn’t wish any “There are a number of “The hardest thing “One of the ways I hang maker. Even as a kid, history of innovation, more innovation ways for innovation to about comedy is when on to creative or innova- I’d get hand-me-downs, you discover that the on fiction than has happen. Collaboration you can sense the effort, tive ideas is by being redesign them, try to process is much less already arrived. With is one. Another is just and you are repelled a lunatic about notes. find my own identity. intellectual than you some things, we try searching for greatness. by it. When you have a I have a desk, a laptop, It was just creativity might think. Less to improve, improve, Early in my career, a group of comedy writers notebooks, loose papers through innovation rationalistic, in the improve, and then we well-known manager in a room, it’s weird, littered with Post-its, with surplus materi- sense of being derived realize it’s not bet- told me that a hit song because your job is to be notes written on the als. For me, the body is from the top down. ter. I’ve done that is like a million right funny, but it can’t show backs of business cards, a carrier. I’m a mes- Much less dominated with recipes so many decisions in a row. There too much effort. When even written on card- senger, and I think of by schools. And, typi- times. You mess and are so many things that we get to a funny area, board ripped from a box. myself as a messenger cally, driven entirely mess with it, making can throw it off. You we’re talking about a I always try to organize before I’m an artist. by tinkering. Tinkering it better, and then you have to have a little bit heightened, documented the process so I feel like In my studio, when I fin- is just people doing go back and make it of an insane drive to get conversation that we’re less of a lunatic, but ish a piece, I know when what they like to do. the first way again and there. With music, a lot having with our funniest oftentimes something it’s done because all of The results come and think, Actually, that of days you start out friends. We have to shut just bursts out of my a sudden there’s just often they don’t even tastes a lot better. My pretty much uninspired. off the parts of the brain head and I know if I don’t this breath. We pho- recognize them. It’s dog—nobody’s going to And then, all of sudden, that make it something capture it immediately, tograph the work and not purposeful—often improve on this dog. you’re inspired. I spent we’re stressed about, it will disappear. So I then it goes into the the result has noth- The innovation of the three hours noodling like work. It’s all about embrace the craziness receiving room. After ing to do with what family pet? It’s not around with nothing, observation and interac- and grab whatever it’s picked up, I never, people start with. You going to get any better. and then one minute tions, but I don’t need is closest—which is ever see it again. Ever. look for India, you find Bookstores: still abso- this idea came—boom! to go to an art exhibit or sometimes a Sharpie The only time I might America. If you want lutely the best way to Lightning in a bottle. Burning Man to get an in someone’s apron or see it is when I install a breakthrough, don’t buy a book. My husband But then you’re like, idea. In fact, it’s just the a pen in someone’s pony- it in a show. And I turn specify where you’re has lots of classical okay, now where do I go opposite. The more I run tail—and scribble on around, look back and going. In the long run, vinyl records, and there from here? Producing errands or do chores, whatever is close by. But say goodbye. It’s a the more randomness, are days when I come it is a lot of trial and the more inspiration I at the same time, when really weird thing. But the more you’re going downstairs on a week- error. You might spend find. I get more out of it comes to innovation, it goes back to being to be helped. I have no end morning and he’s another three hours filling my car with gas, there’s a beauty to limit- a messenger. I’m here plan when I wake up playing Shostakovich, trying out wrong things, getting it washed and ing yourself: backing to deliver these deeds in the morning. I have and it’s really lovely. wanting to give up and returning some stuff to yourself into a corner to through this medium. absolutely zero idea You can have the iPod then—boom— another Best Buy than I would force your creative mind I don’t have ownership. where I’m going. The playing while you brush idea happens. I usually going to the library. back into itself until it What I’m doing when I’m minute I’m bored with your teeth all you want, just keep trying. I’m very So much of writing is implodes into something looking back is looking something, I move on but to come into the stubborn. It’s easy repeating back into the exponentially greater IMPERIALE COLLECTION to make sure that I deliv- to something else. Life living room and hear to write a good song, script a funnier version than it once was—kind ered the message fully. is too short—I follow that record on the but it’s hard to write a of the thing you’ve just of like nuclear energy.” And then I move on.” stimuli.” turntable—it’s deep.” great song.” experienced.”

Taleb is a statistician and Patchett is an author whose Dr. Luke is a music producer Kaling is a former writer author of The Black Swan latest book, This is the and songwriter, who has worked and actress on The Office Cave is a performance artist, and Antifragile: Things That Story of a Happy Marriage, with artists such as Katy Perry and the creator and star Tosi is the chef, founder and Explore the collection at US.CHOPARD.COM sculptor and dancer. Gain From Disorder. is out this month. and Rihanna. of The Mindy Project. owner of Momofuku Milk Bar.

30 wsj. magazine

1113_WSJ_Columnists_01.indd 30 10/28/13 12:25 PM Ne w Yo kBe rk ve rl y il Bos Hills to n Sout h Coas t Plaza At lant a Hous to n Crys ta ls Fo ru m Shops Fa ho Sho shion w alAaMoana Ala Mall Ty osCorner sons Wa ikiki

212 446 3912 bally.com wsj. magazine With herdirectorialdebut, the world of culture culture of world the 26-year-old first-time director Gia Coppola proves she’s ready to take on the family business. 26-year-old first-time directorGiaCoppolaprovesshe’sready to takeonthefamilybusiness. BY LOGAN HILL PHOTOGRAPHY BY MONA KUHN STYLING BY JACQUI STYLING GETTY BY MONA KUHN PHOTOGRAPHY HILL BY LOGAN & style COMING UP COPPOLA UP COMING Palo Alto what’s news. what’s —a filmaboutCalifornia teensthat’salreadyearningravereviews— her laid-back native native laid-back her Californian style in in style Californian CAMERA READY READY CAMERA of Sofia, shows off shows Sofia, of granddaughter of of granddaughter Francis and niece niece and Francis Saint Laurent by by Laurent Saint a biker jacket by by jacket a biker Hedi Slimane. Gia Coppola, november 2013

33 WHAT’S NEWS

THE ROCKET JET SET How the ﬁnal frontier became the next great vacation destination. —Jesse Will

2001 Businessman Dennis Tito buys a $20 million “ticket” to board the Russian craft Soyuz and becomes the ﬁrst space tourist. He spends six days on the International Space Station, against NASA’s wishes.

2002 ’N Sync member Lance Bass trains for months in preparation for a Russian ﬂight to the ISS, but his voyage is nixed at the last minute.

2002 IKE HER AUNT SOFIA and her grandfather NEW DIRECTION PayPal billionaire Elon Musk founds SpaceX, a company Francis, Gia Coppola looks unﬂappable— Clockwise from top left: Nat Wolff, left, and Jack devoted to getting payloads perhaps, even, unimpressed. Sitting in the Kilmer in Palo Alto; Gia on into space inexpensively. He lobby of the Intercontinental hotel during set; with James Franco invests $100 million of his own money into the project. Lthe Toronto International Film Festival, Gia, 26, is so at the 2013 Venice Film Festival; with Francis still and angular she’s practically sculptural: cropped Ford Coppola at this year’s 2004

bangs, sharp cheekbones and a trim black leather Telluride Film Festival. British entrepreneur Sir REIMAGE FOR ELECTROLUX /WIREIMAGE; VIVIEN VIVIEN /WIREIMAGE; jacket so supple it looks like it could melt under the Richard Branson announces Virgin Galactic, a company glare of all this attention. offering suborbital flights into Here for the world premiere of her debut film, Palo space for $190,000. Alto, she is well aware that cynics will wield her fam- 2006 ily’s 24 Oscar nominations against her—but she’s Anousheh Ansari becomes gotten used to charges of nepotism. “My name does the first female space tourist. help me get in the door, but it doesn’t do the work The Iranian-born, U.S.-based entrepreneur wears the flags for me.” The offended, she says simply, “don’t have to of both her homeland and the watch it if they don’t want to.” U.S. on her spacesuit. As it happens, Gia doesn’t need to engage her 2010 critics on this particular front: Variety called Palo SpaceX becomes the first Alto—based on the semi-autobiographical short story private company to launch and collection by the actor James Franco, about aimless her grandfather’s Napa Valley estate, and she struggled return a craft from orbit, after its patented Dragon spacecraft suburban California teens—“a remarkably assured as a student. “I didn’t get good grades. I knew I wanted rides a Falcon 9 rocket 186 miles feature debut.” The Hollywood Reporter called it to be creative but didn’t know how. [Directing] just felt into the stratosphere. the “best feature film directed by someone named like my calling, I guess, as I got older.” While majoring 2013 Coppola in a number of years.” in photography at Bard College in upstate New York, she Bus tours of Spaceport America, The film, which she adapted, dramatizes the stu- began to experiment with film, making shorts for hip the first commercial spaceport, pid mistakes, dumb crushes and profane cruelty of clothing labels like Zac Posen, Opening Ceremony and located in southern New Mexico, begin. The facility features a high school teens. Emma Roberts—niece of Julia Diane von Furstenberg. She also shot DVD features on terminal by Norman Foster and Roberts—plays April, a girl juggling the affections of the set of her grandfather’s film Twixt, and slyly says she a nearly two-mile-long runway. a young friend and those of her lecherous soccer coach learned to give her crew 45-minute lunches, “because 2014 (played by Franco). Nickelodeon star Nat Wolff plays [Francis] says an army marches on its stomach.” Expected inaugural flights for an insecure wild child. And in the role of the character Gia doesn’t have another project in mind just yet, Virgin Galactic. Justin Bieber Franco based loosely on himself—an arty, pot-smoking though she says she’s determined to build a career and Leonardo DiCaprio have reportedly signed up for seats. romantic—Gia introduces Jack Kilmer, a family friend like her aunt’s, to whom she owes her greatest debt and, yes, son of former Batman Val (who happens to as a filmmaker. Her father, Francis’s son, Gian- 2015 play April’s Xbox-obsessed father). She even gave her Carlo, died at age 22 in a boating accident, when her Intended date of moon flyby from Space Adventures, mother, stylist Jacqui Getty, a supporting part. mother, who was 19 at the time, was pregnant with a Virginia-based company. With Palo Alto, Gia says she sought to counter- her. She is named after him: Gian-Carla. “I definitely Tickets are $150 million each. program the staged semi-reality of MTV shows like had periods in my life when I felt like something was 2018 Teen Mom and mainstream teen rom-coms. On set, missing, but I was lucky to have these really close Proposed launch of privately she channeled teenage-hood in more ways than she’d relationships with my family.” funded flybys of Mars in anticipated: “As a first-time director, you act a lot like She pauses for a few seconds. “It’s weird, because the Dragon spacecraft. Dennis Tito’s Inspiration Mars a teenager. I made decisions because I was hotheaded. I’m older than [my father] lived to be, and he wanted to Foundation is looking for My skin broke out. I was trying to understand who I am.” be a filmmaker,” she says. “So I feel like I have someone donations—and, ideally, a man/ PREVIOUS PAGE: HAIR BY IAN JAMES; MAKEUP BY MOLLY PADDON. THIS PAGE: KALMAN MULLER; R. CHANDLER-GUINNESS; STEFANIA D’ALESSANDRO Her childhood was split between Los Angeles and looking out for me. I feel like I’m doing this for him.” woman team to make the trip. KILLILEA/GETTY IMAGES FOR TELLURIDE FILM FESTIVAL; JEFFREY MAYER/WIREIMAGE; CHRISTOPHER POLK/AMA2012/GETTY IMAGES; IAN GAVAN/WI

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ON TREND TIMEWALKER VOYAGER UTC TECHNO LACE SPECIAL EDITION This season designers like Raf Simons (Dior Couture, left) chose to update the peekaboo appeal of antique lace with materials like perforated leather and gold presented in a bold palette.

BUY THE BOOK STOCK PHOTOS Beginning in the 1950s, Magnum CE); ©DENNIS STOCK/MAGNUM PHOTOS (STOCK PHOTOS) ©DENNIS STOCK/MAGNUM PHOTOS) CE); (STOCK PHOTOS photographer Dennis Stock recorded 1 a vivid array of urban subcultures that were just beginning to grip the popular imagination, from Harlem jazz

4 musicians to the Village Beats—not to mention ad men and movie stars (he followed James Dean across the country, taking memorable portraits A CUT ABOVE 1. Reed Krakoff bag, like the one above). This month, Reel $2,590, reedkrakoff Art Press remembers his work with .com 2. Christopher Kane dress, $2,365, 5 American Cool. “He wanted to capture Saks Fifth Avenue 3. Balenciaga boot, the human essence, had no interest in $1,195, 212-206-0872 the obvious, and most of all, he hated 4. Burberry Prorsum skirt, $2,495, burberry condescension,” says Michael Shulman, .com 5. Aurélie Bidermann cuffs, $975, Magnum’s current director. “Stock Barneys New York approached everything and everyone Wherever the journey takes you, the second time zone synchronized 6. Aquazzura boot, $995, 212-826-8900 6 with honesty, like a poet.” —Toni Garcia with Universal Time Coordinated (UTC) lets you keep track of all your global interests. Automatic movement. Second time zone with 24-hour display and day/night indication. 42 mm stainless-steel case with satin-finished bezel. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture SWEET SUBVERSION in Le Locle, Switzerland. Usually it’s the cake that gets to steal the show. But nothing is as usual when it comes to Tea with Georg, a new set of teatime tableware by Scholten & Baijings for Danish luxury design house Georg Jensen. With characteristic restraint, the young Dutch duo has whisked together the aesthetics and tea-making cultures of Scandinavia and Japan. “There is a natural connection between the two, appreciation for traditional handicraft and the beauty of the physical material,” says Carole Baijings. The nine-piece stainless steel and porcelain collection—including the cake stand ($270) and set of espresso cups and saucers ($110) seen here, available at georgjensen.com—

makes the timeworn ritual of high tea seem like a modern must.—Sarah Medford COURTESY OF DIOR (RUNWAY); PHOTOGRAPHY BY F. MARTIN RAMIN (TECHNO LACE & SWEET SUBVERSION), STYLING BY ANNE CARDENAS (TECHNO LA MONTBLANC.COM

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TIME MACHINES FAST TEMPO Mechanical watch inventors have been grappling with some of the same challenges for over 500 years: how to make a timepiece that creates its own energy; how to deal with gear-stopping magnets. Now, with the arrival of technological advances like 3-D modeling and materials such as silicon, the makers of these hand-constructed watches are overcoming timeworn roadblocks. “There are many ideas to look at again that did not work the ﬁrst time,” explains Stephane Oes, the research and development manager of Girard-Perregaux. Here, four of today’s most cutting-edge collectibles. —Michael Clerizo

HYT GIRARD- THE H2 PERREGAUX THE CONSTANT ESCAPEMENT Liquid is a known nemesis of BREGUET watches, but this piece uses Since the mid-1700s, CLASSIQUE CHRONOMÉTRIE it to display the time: Two watchmakers have tried to LOUIS VUITTON Magnets are to mechanical miniature bellows pump TAMBOUR TWIN CHRONO create a Constant Force watches what Kryptonite is transparent oil and Escapement (CFE)—a device This timepiece will appeal to to Superman: Credit cards, fluorescent-green-tinted that controls the internal customers who adore fine security equipment and even water through a glass tube, springs while releasing watches and yacht racing in cabinet doors can cause them advancing the distance energy. In this piece, equal measure. With this to break down. Breguet has between the numerals every between two wheels limited edition of 30, one devised a counterintuitive 60 minutes. Since oil and reminiscent of butterfly can now tell time while also solution to prevent outside water don’t mix, the precise wings, an S-shaped silicon tracking two yachts engaged interference: rare magnetic spot where they meet within blade vibrates back and in competition. A pair of pivots placed inside the the tube replaces the forth—the first smoothly subdials track the vessels’ watch, in addition to parts traditional hour hand. functioning CFE on the progress, while a third crafted from silicon rather $129,000, Cellini Jewelers market. $123,500, 646-495-9915 displays the difference in than steel. $40,000, breguet.com speed between them. Price upon request, louisvuitton.com

THE NEW MUSEUM How does an architect go head to head with an iconic building? That was the challenge Renzo Piano faced when designing an expansion of the Kimbell Art Museum in Fort Worth, Texas—widely considered a masterwork of the late Louis Kahn. “Renzo knew he had to walk a very ﬁne line between being deferential to the Kahn building while still leaving his own mark,” says Eric M. Lee, director of the Kimbell. Piano’s structure is an elegant low-slung pavilion that sits across a grassy plaza from Kahn’s original—“the right distance for a conversation,” says Piano. Opening on November 27, it will be used primarily for temporary exhibitions, and features two sections connected by glass passageways and a façade that appears to hover next to its neighbor. “You can see and feel the light,”

says Lee, “and it puts you in a great frame of mind for looking at art.”—Alastair Gordon PHOTOGRAPHY BY F. MARTIN RAMIN (FAST TEMPO); PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT POLIDORI COURTESY KIMBELL ART MUSEUM, FORT WORTH, TEXAS

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STUDY IN DESIGN SO BRAZILIANT

SCREEN IN ROSEWOOD AND LACQUERED WOOD PANELS, 1965.

THE CAUSE PAPER PARISH In February 2011, an earthquake severely damaged George Gilbert Scott’s 1904 Neo-Gothic cathedral in Christchurch, New Zealand. Now, a soaring cardboard structure (above) imagined When Pritzker-winning by Tokyo-based architect Shigeru Ban will stand in its place— Brazilian architect Oscar for the next half-century, at least (Ban designed it to last just Niemeyer needed furniture, 50 years). It features 98 water- and fireproof cardboard tubes, he turned to the designer which support a polycarbonate roof, with space for 700 parish- ioners. Ban designed the cathedral for free and told a crowd whose taste he most admired: recently, “I want to continue building monuments that will be Joaquim Tenreiro. Much like his client, Tenreiro was a pioneer loved by people.” —Jesse Will in adapting the European modernist style to the climate of Brazil. He focused on wicker and local hardwoods to create pieces that were formal yet light, such as the cane and roxinho wood chair, from 1960 (above). Famed across his homeland, SCENT SENSIBILITY Tenreiro has remained surprisingly unknown abroad—though This month, 15 artists take over Paris’s Grand Palais that will change with a show of his work this month at R 20th with visual work inspired Century Design, in New York. Two powerful advocates of by the classic perfume his work have come together to create the exhibit and sale: Miss Dior. Included in the show are a houndstooth architect Annabelle Selldorf will design the installation, while floor tapestry (far left) by art dealer Gordon Veneklasen will curate it. One of Tenreiro’s New York–based Polly Apfelbaum, who worked masterpieces is a three-legged chair with inlaid stripes in five with Oaxacan weavers on different woods. “It’s a totally impractical piece of furniture, the project—an artisanal ode to the most ethereal unstable and uncomfortable,” laughs Veneklasen, “but it’s very RAINBOW NIRVANA HOUNDSTOOTH, 2012, DYED WOOL, 214 X 247 INCHES, JASON MANDELLA, COURTESY OF DIOR of accessories. special and unique.” r20thcentury.com —Mark Ellwood CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BRIGIT ANDERSON; TENREIRO: PHOTOGRAPH BY SHERRY GRIFFIN/R 20TH CENTURY; COURTESY OF DIOR;

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INTERIOR LIFE

MILAN’S DESIGN MAVEN 8 -595 53 SULWHASOO -8 CREAM WITH

RED GINSENG 00 EXTRACT 1-8

HAUTE HOSPITALITY The Verandah room, PERRICONE designed by Paola MD OVM WITH Navone, of Como’s EGGSHELL new luxury hotel in MEMBRANE Phuket, Thailand— one of two new hotel projects from the POIS MOI COLLECTION GIVENCHY Italian designer. SERUM WITH BLACK ALGAE

Known for infusing artisanal handicrafts with Asian and African flourishes, THE BEAUTY OF Italian design icon Paola Navone is taking to the world stage this fall. Her work overseeing the interiors of lush new Como hotels in Phuket, Thailand, (opening BETTER SKIN this month) and in Miami Beach (opening in December) comes on the heels of her This season, the science of perfect recent collaborations with two U.S. retail giants: a 20-piece bedroom line for pores advances with three skin-care Anthropologie and a 140-item dinner set for Crate & Barrel. Even as she expands launches—all with groundbreaking her reach, the influence of her early days in Italy’s 1980s avant-garde design circles is evident in her love of whimsical touches, loud colors and squiggly lines. ingredients poised to be the latest Below, she talks to Christopher Ross about hospitality and the value buzzwords in beauty. For its new of imperfection. serum, Givenchy has sourced fatty- acid rich black algae and sap from the ON POINT YAMU BY COMO, PHUKET: “I don’t like hotels that are beautiful, and then, when you wake up in the morning, you don’t know whether you’re in depths of the ocean for its capacity Berlin or Fiji. Since we are in Thailand, we wanted to design a Thai environ- to strengthen cells’ ability to protect ment. We produced a lot of the furniture in the country. We used a lot of woven against environmental damage, while materials, ceramic and wood. There’s a lot of orange, referencing monks’ robes. Dr. Nicholas Perricone has turned to It feels very stylish, very today and informed by the savoir faire of the country.” the collagen-regenerating powers of ON WHAT MAKES A GOOD HOTEL:“Location is important, but more important is eggshell membranes—harvested and the hotel’s atmosphere. I want to feel at home in my mind, not just physically. I adapted for human cellular function for want a place where I can work or do nothing or just the first time ever. And then there’s the sleep—basically I want to feel like I’m in a cocoon.” DOLCE DECOR concentrated dose of youth-enhancing From top: Paola Navone; ON WORKING WITH CRATE & BARREL: “My first com- red ginseng that Sulwhasoo is now her teacup and saucer for ment to Crate & Barrel was that their shop was too Crate & Barrel; Nuvola delivering to smile lines via a hydra- armchair for Gervasoni. perfect. It’s all so organized—everything shown in lines, by size, in columns. So our project was to tion-boosting hyaluronic acid-spiked bring a little messiness and chaos to it.” patch—much more of the moment than mere fingertips. —Celia Ellenberg ON BEING A PIONEER OF SHABBY CHIC: “Shabby things are thought of as imperfect, yet I promote From top: Sulwhasoo Microdeep Intensive ROBERTOCOIN.COM imperfection in my work. I don’t see it as mean- Filling Cream & Patch, $195, neimanmarcus .com.; Perricone MD OVM (available Dec. 1), ing that something’s broken, but as a sign of $165, perriconemd.com; Givenchy Le Soin Noir

human identity.” Sérum, $410, givenchybeauty.com. FROM TOP LEFT TO BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY OF COMO COURTESYHOTEL; OF COURTESYCRATE OF AND PAOLA NAVONE; COMO BARREL;CUP ANDCOURTESY SAUCER,OF PAOLA PAOLA NAVONE; NAVONE PHOTOGRAPHYCOLLECTION BY F. MARTIN RAMIN. STYLING BY ANNE CARDENAS (BETTER SKIN)

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1113_WSJ_WhatsNews_6_02.indd 42 10/2/13 1:59 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT what’s news

screen time hIghs and lowe

f you saw this year’s HBO film Behind watching hours of video—including unedited the Candelabra and weren’t amazed interview footage—to get a sense of how JFK by Rob Lowe’s performance as Dr. Jack spoke extemporaneously. Lowe was shocked Startz—the stretch-faced, squinty- at the difference in cadence between his Ieyed plastic surgeon in Steven Soderbergh’s formal speeches and his off-the-cuff conversa- Liberace biopic—you should sit down and tional tone. “He didn’t speak to his friends in watch it again posthaste. Speaking from the same way he said, ‘Ich bin ein Berliner,’ ” REFRESHINGLY TRANSPARENT L.A. recently, Lowe recalled the grotesquely says Lowe. “I worked very hard on the accent. realistic scenes during which he performed Also, the hair.”

pseudo-surgeries: “It was just me and Steven, For the last few years, Lowe has also entury a whole day on my feet, slicing up a prosthetic starred on the NBC sitcom Parks and Michael Douglas [who played Liberace]. Now Recreation, playing the hilariously uptight, I could probably give you a really cheap face- obsessively fit and ceaselessly genial Chris lift, if you wanted me to.” Traeger, a role he will walk away from after Playing real people is often challenging for this season. Of his departure, Lowe says, actors, the fear being that their performance “Leaving Parks and Recreation would be a lot might tip into cheap caricature, without harder if I wasn’t going at the same time as nuance or insight. But Lowe’s embodiment of [costar] Rashida [Jones].” museum of art: 2003. 2nd407.7, C Dr. Startz—a famously dubious doctor-to-the- Lowe has other irons in the fire, including itan

stars—signals just how far this former 1980s a follow-up to his best-selling Stories I Only L heartthrob has come as an actor. Tell My Friends: An Autobiography from 2011.

This month, Lowe takes on his most Slated for early next year, the sequel of sorts etropo recognizable real-life role to date: playing is called Love Life. “Writing the first book was President John F. Kennedy in Killing Kennedy, the most rewarding experience of my life so premiering on the National Geographic far,” says Lowe. “The second book gave me the Channel on November 10, about the assassina- chance to include details from my life after eCtion of the m

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1113_WSJ_WhatsNews_7_02.indd 44 10/3/13 12:43 PM 10032013114558 Approved with warnings fashion & design forecast MARKET REPORT. november 2013

Aura Clean a new dawn of color sweep Things aren’t so black and white when a dash of pink is added to otherwise simple pairings.

photography by Jennifer Livingston styLing by zara zachrisson

FRESH ROSE A pale pink clutch and matching stilettos pump up a classic ensemble. 3.1 Phillip Lim T-shirt, $275, 31philliplim.com, Donna Karan skirt, $1,095, Donna Karan New York, Manolo Blahnik shoe, $595, available for special order at 212-582-3007, Fallon choker, $250, Intermix stores, Maiyet bracelet (top), $850, maiyet .com, and Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane bracelet, $1,250, 212-980-2970, and Stella McCartney clutch, $770, 616-942-6300. new york delray beach abchome.com wsj. magazine 47

1113_WSJ_MarketReport_02.indd 47 9/30/13 4:29 PM 09302013153222 market report

the sweeter side of the new minimalism is reVealed in flashes of fuchsia and blush on full skirts and cozy coats.

GREAT LENGTHS Step out in these pleated options, which look chic and graceful whether above or below the knee. Above: Kenzo top, $390, kenzo.com, Oscar de la Renta skirt, $1,090, Oscar de la Renta boutiques, Roberto Coin earrings, $1,640, Saks Fifth Avenue, Saint Laurent by Hedi ABSTRACT EXPRESSIONISM Slimane bracelet (top left), $1,250, 212-980-2970, Jean There’s no danger of becoming a wallflower in an artistic Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. bracelet (top right), print or a coat in a painterly hue. Above: Alexander $7,350, tiffany.com, Balenciaga bracelet (bottom), $525, Wang T-shirt, $595, Alexander Wang New York, Kirna Zabete, Cartier rings, $3,350 (left), and $2,290, Carolina Herrera skirt, $1,990, 212-249-6552, Manolo both cartier.us, and Balenciaga bag, $2,850, Bergdorf Blahnik shoe, $595, neimanmarcus.com, Maiyet bangle, Goodman. Right: Proenza Schouler jacket, $1,975, $750, maiyet.com, and Rochas bag, $1,220, La Maison top, $850, and skirt, $1,050, all 212-420-7300, Manolo Simons Montreal. Right: Chloé coat, $2,195, Chloé Soho, Blahnik shoe, $595, available for special order at 212- top, $1,075, and shorts, $895, both chloe.com, Cartier 582-3007, Roberto Coin earrings, $1,640, Saks Fifth earrings, $3,850, cartier.us, David Webb bracelets, Avenue, Omega watch, $27,700, Omega boutiques, $16,000 (top) and $16,500, both davidwebb.com, and Cartier bracelet, $16,300, cartier.us, and Jimmy Choo Tod’s bag, $3,175, 800-457-TODS. clutch, $1,250, Jimmy Choo stores.

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There’s nothing inside but 100% Weber Blue Agave. a flirty hemline and girlish At Patrón, we use only the finest Weber Blue Agave from the highlands of Jalisco, Mexico. And that’s why Patrón Simply Perfect. dÉcolletage is considered perfect from the inside out. simplyperfect.com become more sophisticated in a wash of cool white or ballet- beautiful pink. ol. Alc./V 40% . NV , gas Ve s La , irits Company Sp trón Pa PURE AND SIMPLE Maximize impact with statement accessories, from The a white purse to a charmingly quirky bucket hat. Left: 13 20 Ralph Lauren Collection jacket, $2,998, skirt, $1,098, and tank, $675, all ralphlauren.com, Dean Harris . © earrings, $675, deanharris.net, Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. bracelets, $20,000 (top), and, $12,000, sponsibly

both tiffany.com, and Boss bag, $395, Hugo Boss stores. re Above: Balenciaga hat, $1,085, Barneys New York, Lanvin dress, $3,475, Lanvin New York, and Manolo Blahnik shoe, $595, available for special order at 212- trón is Pa 582-3007, Pomellato ring (top), $3,700, 800-254-6020, Roberto Coin ring (middle), $1,700, 800-853-5958, Chloé ring (bottom), $285, chloe.com, and Proenza Schouler bag, $915, proenzaschouler.com. ect way to enjoy rf

50 wsj. magazine pe The

1113_WSJ_MarketReport_03.indd 50 10/1/13 11:52 AM 10012013105349 market report

Presenting the black-tie-optional tuxedo sofa. The Goodland Collection by Milo Baughman.

DWR NEW YORK STUDIOS: SOHO | FLATIRON | EAST 62ND | COLUMBUS AVE BROOKLYN HEIGHTS | EAST 57TH – COMING SOON

A NEW SPIN A delicate hue can make a bold statement when used in contrast to blocks of black and white. Right: Gucci coat, $3,700, gucci.com, Boss blouse, $325, Hugo Boss stores, Reed Krakoff skirt, $990, reedkrakoff.com, Manolo Blahnik shoe, $595, neimanmarcus.com, Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet, $6,700, vancleefarpels.com, Audemars Piguet watch, $37,500, audemarspiguet.com, Chloé ring, $450, The Webster Miami, and Ralph Lauren Collection handbag, $2,500, ralphlauren.com. Above: Fendi dress, $1,750, 212-759-4646, Roberto Coin earrings, $720, robertocoin.com, Elsa Peretti bracelet for Tiffany & Co. 20 ©

(left), $2,975, tiffany.com, Rolex watch, $28,300, rolex 13

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1113_WSJ_MarketReport_02.indd 52 9/30/13 4:30 PM 09302013153223 leading the conversation the exchange. november 2013

8:00 a.m. Parker’s explosively cluttered office—which includes items ranging from Jimi Hendrix’s Fender Stratocaster to Olym- pic sprinter Michael Johnson’s gold shoes—reflects the CEO’s eclectic design sensibility.

tracked MARK PARKER Nike’s top executive combines technical savvy with a sophisticated aesthetic eye.

BY CHRISTOPHER ROSS PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL FRIBERG

ERE YOU TO RUN into Mark Parker, obsessed by the details of something. I relate to that.” it’s the two recent megahits he green-lit at Nike—the Nike’s CEO, on the company’s pristine As a track star at Penn State (and an early tester for ultralight Flyknit sneakers and the chic body-data- Beaverton, Oregon, campus, you might the magazine Runner’s World) who put in double-digit gathering FuelBand—or the works of surrealist mistake him for one of the 21 PhDs who mileage daily, he used to tinker with his own running painter Mark Ryden, whom he counts as a friend and Wwork in the athletic powerhouse’s top-secret research shoes, and it was this right-brained DIY sensibil- whose pieces he collects. Parker’s cutting-edge sensi- lab. Creative-casual duds (blazer, polo, jeans, Nike ity that landed him at Nike’s R&D lab in Exeter, New bility is in part derived from his social network of art Roshe sneakers) and a professorial bearing (quiet Hampshire, in 1979 as a young designer. He went on to and music luminaries—which includes Kanye West intonation, short beard, slight stoop) make it difficult work with the late Nike cofounder Bill Bowerman, the and artist Tom Sachs—whose members congregate at to square this somewhat unassuming figure with his hard-edged University of Oregon track coach whose salon-like gatherings he occasionally throws. As he position as the fourth-highest-paid head executive in motivational quotes now adorn the walls of Nike looks forward to the 2014 Olympics and World Cup the country. A fanatical devotion to sneaker design stores. Fast forward 34 years later, and Parker is still (Nike will be producing shoe models and apparel that and a technical fluency rare among CEOs propelled directly involved in shoe construction, walking into will be used by the athletes), his greatest advantage the 58-year-old Nike lifer to the top perch of the foot- meetings holding his Moleskine graph-paper note- may be his ability to synthesize the input of disparate wear and apparel giant, which has reached annual book filled with doodles and wearing new prototypes influences, from lab engineers to downtown artists. Willem de Kooning revenues of $24 billion, up 60 percent since he was on his feet—to the great alarm of his minders, charged And beneath it all, he can still hear the old refrain his Ten Paintings, 1983–1985 appointed in 2006. “Have you heard the Japanese with keeping said prototypes under wraps. former boss, Bowerman, challenged young designers word otaku?” he muses. “It means being deeply Parker has an uncanny eye for good design, whether with: “Is that the best you can do?” >

wsj. magazine 55 the exchange tracked

8:30 a.m. 2 Grabbing a coffee hours shortly after arriving at the office. Amount of time he worked out that morning, An early riser, he’s been up since primarily weight-lifting and spinning. five and has already worked out. He exercises two hours a day four times a week, and one hour a day on the other three. 8,000 pieces in Parker’s art collection, which includes work by Andy Warhol. He prefers to visit artists’ studios, instead of going to galleries. 11:38 a.m. Mobbed on campus by a group taking a tour. Parker is a celeb- 1 rity in Asia, where he is often recognized lifelike bust on sight and asked to pose for photographs. of Abraham Lincoln in Parker’s office, made from the president’s death mask. He considers Lincoln his model for leadership. 15:32.5 10:11 a.m. The world record A morning for women’s 5,000 meters at the National check-in meeting Track Championships, set by Parker’s wife, with brand president Kathy, in 1978. It’s since been broken. Trevor Edwards. Left: One of Parker’s drawings. His hand conceals a yet- unreleased new design. $500 Above: An early Nike shoe model in Parker’s office. Amount Phil Knight and his former coach, Bill Bowerman, each pledged when they founded Nike, then called Blue Ribbon Sports, in 1964. 2 dogs in the Parker household: a Chihuahua and a mixed-breed pooch rescued from Hurricane Katrina. 200 meters Distance the first prototype of Flyknit sneakers traveled before falling apart. Over 100 prototypes later, they nailed it.

It’s not the high-grown arabica. Or our deep connections with farmers. Or the extreme 3 care we use to sort and select our beans. It’s that we do all these things together, all the time. 12:15 p.m. kids Because we know exceptional coffee can only come from exceptional coffee beans. Reviewing in the Parker family: Jennifer, 30, shoe fabrics Megan, 27, and Matthew, 25. in Nike’s materials library with Hannah Jones, vice president of sustainable business and innovation. Nike has tested the $35.2M environmental impact of Parker’s compensation 70,000 different fabrics. in 2012, up from $11 million in 2011.

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3:32 p.m. $800 Discussing the cultish, Cost of the used Winnebago limited-edition HTM line Nike converted into an innovation office. with legendary designer Tinker Hatfield Bringing the space up to building codes cost (creator of the best-known Air Jordan many, many multiples of this. models) in the Winnebago–turned– conference room. H stands for Hiroshi Fujiwara, the other series’ designer, T for Tinker, M for Mark. 2:59 Time set on the clocks in the Winnebago meeting room, said to be a reference to the sub-three-hour marathon. 85 motion-sensor detectors glued onto Olympic decathlete Ashton Eaton’s body in the Nike Sports Research Lab. Digital renderings of his form can be used to create physical models of his body with a 3-D printer. 150 emails received 20 sent. $90,300 Winning eBay bid for limited-edition Nike Air Yeezy II sneakers, designed by Kanye West, one of the highest prices paid for a pair of Nike shoes.

2:05 p.m. In the research lab, 30 Nike-sponsored Olympic calls received decathlete Ashton Eaton prac- 10 made. tices his start off the blocks, as Parker—and motion-sensor cameras—look on. 250 acres p.m. make up Nike’s campus, which includes 6:55 soccer and track fields, swimming Taking off pools, basketball courts, gyms, saunas to stop by Portland’s Nike store and a Japanese garden. before heading home. He has dinner (salmon and rice) with his wife at 8 p.m., walks the dogs, watches the news and is in bed by 11:30 p.m. 500 total models made of the 2003 BMW Alpina Z8. Parker drives one to and from work that day. 5:20 p.m. Photo op with Nike employees com- peting in that weekend’s 6’4” Hood to Coast event, the Parker’s height largest relay in the world, Among CEOs of Fortune 500 companies, in which teams of 12 run- roughly 58% are six feet or taller, ners cover 199 miles. according to one study—only about 14.5% of all U.S. men are this tall.

58 wsj. magazine the exchange

upstarts click, BiD, collecT Acquiring a pedigreed piece of art used to be the cloistered domain of dealers and auction houses. But now these three companies are seeking to revolutionize the centuries-old business by making art as easy to buy online as a pair of shoes.

BY ellen gamerman . ny

few years ago, the British-born auction- excluded from the market. There’s significant money ictures, eer Alexander Gilkes was hatching a plan to be earned: Online sales are still a fraction of an with Aditya Julka, a biotech entrepreneur, estimated $56 billion global art market, but a recent to launch an online contemporary art auc- report by Hiscox projected those sales would rise from Ation company. They envisioned the company—which $870 million last year to $2.1 billion by 2017. they dubbed Paddle8—as a luxury site that would “The arts scene is globalizing, so the feeling is revolutionize the art market the way Net-a-Porter did that people can’t afford to not engage with an online for fashion retail, and sought the advice of a Harvard platform, as opposed to three or four years ago,” says Business School professor to assess their theory. After Russian collector Dasha Zhukova, an investor who hearing them out, the professor marched over to his became Artsy’s creative director last year. desk and promptly wrote a check for $50,000. “Now Her bullishness is echoed by Gilkes. “The art world there’s no excuse,” he told them. “Go get started.” is catching up with the eBay generation,” says the Since then, tech start-ups specializing in art sales 34-year-old Eton graduate. The idea for Paddle8 arose From a name that is much respected and admired throughout the world. have raked in millions in funding, collaborated with when Gilkes was working as an auctioneer at New Trusted experts in real estate that raise the bar for the luxury home market. top galleries, auction houses and art fairs, thrown York auction house Phillips de Pury (now Phillips). glitzy parties—and forced skeptics to reconsider their While leading benefit sales, he noticed nonprofits were Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices Luxury Collection� – real estate expertise position. Paddle8, which Gilkes and Julka launched in focused on selling gala tickets rather than choice art- 2011, has tripled its base of bidders in the last year works that would be auctioned at such events. “These that redefines the art of fine living. and scored $10 million in backing from investors were gold mines for acquiring works by blue-chip including an owner of Chanel (through the invest- artists, and it was the same 200 people who were get- ment firm Mousse Partners), the venture capital firm ting access to these works,” he says. In 2010, he was color photograph, 34.75 in x 24 in. courtesy of the artist and metro p For more information visit www.berkshirehathawayhs.com Founder Collective (which has funded BuzzFeed and introduced to Julka, the 32-year-old cofounder of two Uber), artist Damien Hirst and the Russian billionaire bio-tech companies who was interested in building , 2010/2012. Vladimir Yevtushenkov. Its high-society connec- his own art collection. By the end of that year, Gilkes tions are also garnering buzz: British royal Princess quit his job to begin developing the company full time, Eugenie is joining its business development team while Julka tackled the legal and business side. Untitled this fall. Its rivals include Artsy, an online art plat- Their plan was simple: Let the auction houses chase form officially launched last year, which has attracted seven-figure trophies; they would stake out works s herman, high-powered angels such as Google executive chair- priced at less than $100,000, including smaller pieces

man Eric Schmidt and Twitter cofounder Jack Dorsey. by brand names like Cindy Sherman and Jeff Koons. indy Artsy, which matches buyers with more than 30,000 Such works are less popular at brick-and-mortar auc- artworks for sale based on users’ past preferences, tions because they don’t sell for enough to make the recently unveiled an app that allows people to buy art associated costs worthwhile—even a less expensive PADDLE8 adit ya julka & alexander gilkes from their smartphones. Meanwhile, Artspace, a two- piece must travel to an auction house for display, rack- , 2010. color woodcut, 24.5 in x 32 in. year-old direct-sales company, sells artworks priced ing up large shipping and insurance bills. Paddle8 anywhere from $50 to more than $2 million and has doesn’t incur such costs, since all of the works are Julka, top left, and gilkes launched their raised $13 million from investors to date. shown online. (After the sale, a third party ships the online auction site in 2011. since then, they

have secured $10 million in backing from Methionine All three sites are attempting to democratize a more pieces directly from a storage facility to the buyer.) sources including artist damien hirst and

than 200-year-old industry whose secretive mores and Such tactics have helped attract backers. David an owner of chanel. works sold through irst, h nuanced relationships have made it opaque to outsid- Frankel, managing partner of Founder Collective, bet paddle8 include an untitled cindy sherman piece, middle, which went for its estimate ers. They offer a curated selection of art, art advisory on the company because it is working around the mar- of $70,000 and hirst’s 2010 woodcut amien services and tools to discover new work, drawing not gins of the big auction houses. “Strategically, do you Methionine, bottom. © 2013 d just established collectors but neophytes who have felt want to become Sotheby’s online? The answer is no.”> portrait by weston wells, courtesy paddle8; c

©2013 BHH Affiliates, LLC. Real Estate Brokerage Services are offered through the network member franchisees of BHH Affiliates, LLC. Most franchisees are independently owned and operated. 60 wsj. magazine Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices and the Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices symbol are registered service marks of HomeServices of America, Inc.® Equal Housing Opportunity.

1113_WSJ_YoungGuns_02.indd 60 10/3/13 12:14 PM 10032013114557 Approved with warnings Advertisement the exchange upstarts 2005 ARTSY Mes carter cleveland & sebastian cwilich Bellonion EVENTS cwilich, far left, joined founder cleveland to run the website. they count dealer larry

gagosian and twitter cofounder Jack dorsey Until the KingdoM Co hamberlain hamberlain as investors and dasha Zhukova as creative director. mario testino’s portrait of Kate Architizer A+ AwArds moss, middle, sold through artsy, as did simen Johan’s untitled work, near left. Architizer and WSJ. Magazine presented the inaugural A+ Awards to an audience of over 400 at Cedar Lake in New York’s West Chelsea Historic District. The awards celebrated the diversity of the world’s architecture by honoring a total of eighty-seven buildings, projects and structures for each of the Artsy founder Carter Cleveland launched his embarrassed to talk about the fact that we do parties Baibakova, who was drawn to the Artspace model, fifty-two A+ categories. The gala culminated with the company after realizing there was no website cata- at all; that’s what start-ups do right before they fail,” which is also commission-based. bestowing of honorary awards in the categories of loguing images of all the art in the world. “I thought says Cleveland, who nevertheless says the events are Now established companies are trying to get in on courtesy of artspace.com; John c Lifetime Achievement, Building of the Year, Advocacy, that was a weird gap on the Internet,” says 27-year- critical to business. “I found out the hard way, a great the business: Christie’s will hold at least 50 online- Relevancy, Do Good, and Patron. lgort e old Cleveland, who was a computer science major at product and a great technology is not enough. You only auctions this year, with nearly half of all online All Photos: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com Princeton. In 2008, he began developing the idea while need to have a brand that people believe in and trust.” buyers describing themselves as first-time custom- Mikheil Saakashvili Brett Yormark ophie ophie still an undergrad, initially as an educational project. As start-ups try to distinguish themselves from ers and some of their purchases falling right in the K; s or

He turned his idea commercial after graduation, with their rivals, the jockeying for name recognition is get- $10,000 sweet spot favored by the start-ups. “My feel- neon sculpture, 18.5 x 14 in. courtesy of artspace the involvement of investors like art dealer Larry ting intense. Artspace is staking a claim on speedy ing is that we will see players come in and out of the

2012 Thom Browne new y Marc Kushner Gagosian. (Wendi Murdoch was also an early investor.) sales: While other art sites often require users to wait market rapidly over the next two years, as this rela- The site is organized around the Art Genome Project, for an auction or contact a representative to buy a tively new online marketplace evolves,” says Steven lready a collaboration between art historians and computer work, everything on the site is available immediately. Murphy, chief executive of Christie’s International. allery,

scientists who map connections between works of art. Customers can drop a $2.5 million Cy Twombly or a Amazon, which recently launched an art store, is Ugh a no Based on the buying history of Artsy users, the site $50 dead chicken portrait in their cart and check out. relying on brand recognition to draw clients. The com- e

recommends new works and charges a commission for “You just click and buy it,” says art patron Chris Vroom, pany entices member galleries—so far there are more yossi milo g any resulting sales. Artsy also began charging a sub- who cofounded Artspace with former DailyCandy than 180 of them—with overnight access to Amazon’s scription fee on new galleries joining the site. chief operating officer Catherine Levene. Their site more than 200 million customers worldwide. ourtesy Some backers, like Earthlink and Boingo founder features work from an international roster of galleries Some art executives predict the herd of new online Sky Dayton, believe Artsy will expand the restricted and museums. One Australian customer, for example, art collectors will thin. “At least 50 percent of them , 2008 30 x 24 inch, pigment print courtesy of danZiger gallery; simen Johan from the series art market: “I think it can be 10 times bigger than it is recently purchased works from London’s White Cube will go away,” says Jacob Pabst, CEO of Artnet, a long- today,” he says. One way to do that is the iPhone app, gallery, New York’s Whitney Museum of American Art standing online art presence, which has had a bumpy Kate Moss which allows users to buy works of art mostly priced and the Munich publisher Schellmann Art. track record with auctions. Of art start-ups gener- Anthony Cenname, Marc Kushner flanked by Emirates ambassadors under $10,000. When Hugh Jackman tweeted about it, Earlier this year, Artspace drew a round of ally, he adds: “There are questionable business plans, estino, t

the app page logged 4,000 visitors in under an hour. backing from investors including Clear Channel there’s a lot of money going into those companies, and c-print © simen Johan, c

Celebrity endorsements like that have proven to be Communications CEO Bob Pittman and Staples sometimes I ask myself if it’s not too much.” ario m such effective marketing that Artsy frequently throws founder and former chief executive Tom Stemberg. But these digital newcomers believe they’re finally igital

splashy events to attract the attention of collectors: Maria Baibakova, a Russian heiress and contemporary cracking the code to selling art. At Artsy, pitches to rtsy;

, 2013 d Jurgen Mayer-Hermann, Karen Wong, Julien De Smedt a beachside barbecue sponsored by Chanel during art collector, was recently named strategic director. investors no longer spiral into philosophical debates Art Basel in Miami Beach last year drew MoMA PS1 “Artspace benefits both the supply and demand sides over whether collectors would ever surf the web for a director Klaus Biesenbach and Los Angeles County of the art world, creating new sources of revenue and masterpiece. “We don’t field that question anymore,” Untitled #172 courtesy of a Museum of Art director Michael Govan. “I’m always enabling more people to buy contemporary art,” says says Cleveland. “It’s no longer really an issue.” sculpture, 13 x 18 x 15.5 in. courtesy of artspace deborah Kass • Iwan Baan, Michael Murphy Audemars Piguet Atmosphere

ARTSPAcE chris vroom & catherine levene

Vroom, near right, met levene at the 2010 webby awards when they were seated together. they launched their direct-sales website in 2011 and have raised $13 million in funding. works that have sold through the site include pricier pieces like John chamberlain’s 2005 sculpture, middle, which went for $510,000, and a more affordable deborah Kass Benjamin Prosky, Xavier Nolot Charles Renfro, Bjarke Ingels Joshua David, Robert Hammond sculpture, which sold for $18,000, far right.

62 wsj. magazine Follow us @WSJnoted

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the exchange

design A lighT Touch Michael Anastassiades has earned mid-career acclaim for his elegantly minimal designs with one simple rule: Never be a slave to fashion.

BY Jen Renzi balancinG act clockwise from far left:the cyprus-born designer; the string light wo decades into his lauded career, for flos, with its super- London-based product designer Michael long cord; his ic lighting collection for flos, Anastassiades has found himself in the which debuts in march; odd position of becoming a breakout star. a tip of the tongue lamp; TIn September, the 46-year-old designer mounted a his meditation stool in statuary marble. site-specific installation at the Berlin concept store Andreas Murkudis. His ethereal Mobile Chandeliers debut this month at Ralph Pucci’s New York and Los Angeles showrooms, while an exhibition of his work eliminate, removing all the excess to expose the idea, studio into a little shop, screened by an enigmatic an anomaly in the industry, which tends to favor two opens soon at the Point Centre for Contemporary so that it comes out in the strongest possible way,” window vignette. It’s open by appointment only, but extremes: licensing designs to large manufacturers, Art in his native Cyprus. And after years of eschew- Anastassiades says. “By using the inherent quality of anyone intrepid enough to find the discreetly placed who oversee the minutiae of production; or making ing collaborations with major manufacturers in the material, you have a greater chance of not creating doorbell will likely be buzzed in. “It has become a place pieces entirely by hand in one’s own studio, which gen- his favored medium—lighting—he introduced two a pop item.” where clients can experience the products in context erally limits production to small editions with prices to buzzed-about collections with Italian company Flos With lighting, there’s the added complication of and gain insight into the process behind the design,” match. Spearheading his own production has offered at the Milan furniture fair this spring. All of which devising something that looks as good switched off as he says. “It’s also become a platform to showcase myriad benefits. “Not having to fit within a certain is why he’s been the object of the kind of fervor typi- it does on. “I don’t think about lighting as a physical experiments that I’m working on at a particular time.” box, you really have to discover who you are,” he says. cally reserved for neophytes, not cult figures whose object so much. It has to work in a different dimension,” Anastassiades moved into the space shortly after “It allowed my work to mature and for me to grow the clients include fellow British heavyweights like John Anastassiades explains. His fixtures often seem inte- establishing his practice in 1994. He entered the business in a responsible way.” It also permitted him to Pawson, David Chipperfield and Ilse Crawford. gral to their surroundings—take the String series for design world somewhat through the back door. As a balance commercial pursuits—including products for Newfound attention aside, Anastassiades has Flos. The design embodies many of Anastassiades’s sig- teen, he worked as an assistant in artists’ studios near Puiforcat, Rosenthal, Lobmeyr and Swarovski—with always been concerned with staying power, both natures, including an elemental form whose apparent Nicosia, where he grew up, and then moved to London more experimental exercises: His conceptual pieces professionally and aesthetically. His mission is to simplicity belies complex engineering. A spare LED-lit to study civil engineering at the Imperial College. are part of the permanent collections of the Museum of create designs that withstand the vicissitudes of glass globe or triangular pendant levitates from a long After obtaining a master’s degree in industrial design Modern Art and London’s Victoria and Albert Museum; fashion. “I’m not interested in making props,” says black cord, the span of which allows it to be strung from the city’s prestigious Royal College of Art, he had he’s envisioned runway shows for avant-garde fashion the designer, whose Mediterranean warmth is tem- from wall to wall to ceiling in any configuration. “It was a tough time breaking into the profession. “I was fed designer Hussein Chalayan; and he’s mounted site-spe- pered by a Zen calm (it’s unsurprising to discover challenging technologically, figuring out how to trans- up with knocking on doors, with trying to fit within cific installations at the Hagia Sophia, Vienna’s MAK that he moonlighted as a yoga instructor for 10 years). fer the current along an endless length of extremely the system,” Anastassiades recalls. Becoming his own Museum of Applied Arts and Swedish design institu- His pieces are at once stridently contemporary and thin cable without losing power,” he says. (He credits manufacturer “was the only way to maintain creative tion Svenskt Tenn. timeless—so reductive as to look like abstract stud- Flos with solving that technical conundrum.) flow. I didn’t want to just leave my designs on paper.” Most importantly to Anastassiades, making his ies in materiality. Hemispherical Meditation Stools in The String light is both high-concept—the cord itself Like a one-man band, he conceives, develops, pro - own work has allowed him to keep a close eye on statuary marble have the exalted bearing of fine-art becomes an expressive gesture, drawing calligraphic duces, distributes and retails his line of poetically quality and craftsmanship. He still personally signs objects; his cheeky Tip of the Tongue lamp balances an lines in the air—and practical, enabling overhead illu- minimalist luminaries and accessories, sold through off on every piece, which is no small task; last year opaline-glass sphere on the edge of a satin-finish brass mination in rooms lacking a ceiling conduit. Indeed, his website as well as prestigious showrooms like alone he produced some 1,000 Ball Lights, his best cylinder, as if about to roll off; while his Beauty Mirror even his most sculptural creations are born of func- Matter, Luminaire and Nilufar. Although he initially seller, which retail for about $800. And he collabo- is a fluid droplet of gold-plated stainless steel, pol- tion. “I’ve designed many pieces purely out of need, relied on local artisans to fabricate components, in rates closely with his artisans to develop and refine ished to a reflective sheen. “My design language is to things I couldn’t find for my own home,” he says. 2007 he began outsourcing globally to keep pieces the finishes for which he is renowned: laboriously That home, a terraced brick building in London’s as affordable as possible. It took him two years to rendered patinas that are the result of a human all aGlOW a single angle lighting fixture by Waterloo district, is a working laboratory—one he’s set up a network of family-run workshops capable touch yet have a precision and uniformity that seems michael anastassiades suspends an opaline-glass spent the past 15 years gut-renovating into a mini- of producing handiwork to his exacting standards: almost machine-made. “Fine detailing is crucial; we courtesy of michael anastassiades sphere on a polished brass stem. clockwiseclockwise fromfrom far far left:left: JasperJasper fry; fry; stringstring lightlight forfor thetheflos,flos, tongue,tongue,courtesycourtesy courtesycourtesyofof michaelmichaelofof michaelmichael anastassiades;anastassiades; anastassaiades;anastassaiades;JasperJasper fry; fry; tiptip meditation meditation ofof stool,stool, courtesycourtesy ofof michaelmichael anastassaiadesanastassaiades malist modern haven, with occasional assistance marble sculptors in Italy; glassblowers in the Czech pay great attention even to parts that aren’t visible,” from Belgian architect Wim de Mul. Most recently he Republic; and metalworkers in India. Anastassiades explains. “The finish has to be right— converted the street-front section of his ground-floor Anastassiades’s business model is something of even if viewed in absolute darkness.” •

66 wsj. magazine

1113_WSJ_Design_02.indd 66 9/30/13 4:11 PM 1113_WSJ_Design_02.indd 67 9/30/13 4:11 PM 09302013151256 Approved with warnings 09302013151256 Approved with warnings LUCKY GUYS

SUPER TROOPERS With their identities hidden under trademark helmets, this year’s Entertainment Innovators, Guy-Manuel de Homem-Christo, left, and Thomas Bangalter of Daft Punk, happily leave the modeling to Gisele Bündchen. On Bündchen: Gaultier Paris blouse and stockings, Gianvito Rossi pump and Harry Winston bracelet. On Daft Punk: Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane tuxedos.

For details see Sources, WW1 RÉGULATEUR Pink Gold · Limited Edition to 99 pieces · www.bellross.com page 110.

1113_WSJ_WellOpener_02.indd 69 9/30/13 1:32 PM ENTERTAINMENT INNOVATOR DAFT PUNK 2013

With the runaway success of their fourth studio album, Random Access Memories, and the inescapable “Get Lucky,” the ever-evolving robot duo has made 2013 their knockout year.

By Brian raftery PHOtOGraPHy By terry riCHarDSOn StyLinG By GeOrGe COrtina

1113_WSJ_DaftPunk_02.indd 70 9/30/13 6:17 PM 1113_WSJ_DaftPunk_02.indd 71 9/30/13 6:17 PM 09302013171855 09302013171855 n some days this summer, the robots As they were finishing up, Bangalter says, “We had This was, in some ways, Daft Punk’s hope all along. Robot JunioR would rise, get into their cars and pull a very strong sense of happiness. It was like a weird Ever since the early ’90s, when they were teens in Gisele Bünchen with two of the pop duo’s onto Sunset Boulevard or Melrose fantasy: Let’s make a record like it’s the ’70s. But we Paris, Bangalter and de Homem-Christo have rarely children, playfully Avenue—streets that, with their sun- were very puzzled by the way it would clash with settled on living in one era at a time, instead inter- dressed up like their sloshed vistas and waving palms, today’s world.” rogating the past, the present and the future all at incognito fathers. Valentino Haute seem engineered for windows-down, This is understandable, given that, on paper at once. “When we first met,” says Bangalter, “we were Couture dress, Azzedine Ovolume-up music listening. Yet no matter what radio least, the album would seem like a potential disaster— already listening to music that was 20, 30 years older, Alaïa belt, Gianvito station they turned to, the robots were greeted by the a record that found the duo turning away from the type or watching movies that were 50 or 60 years older. Rossi pump and Wilfredo Rosado ring. same song, one they recognized right away. There was of sound that’s made Daft Punk one of the most memo- I think that’s what we tried to do with Random. The the supple, shoulder-lifting guitar lick; that sturdy, rable and unpredictable acts of the last 20 years. Ever only objective was to create something that could urging drumbeat; and the aerial chorus that func- since their 1997 debut, Homework, Daft Punk’s been at have a certain kind of timelessness.” tions as a brag, a mission statement or both: We’re up all night to get lucky. And ecause they’ve taken great pains to though Thomas Bangalter and Guy-Manuel obscure their identities over the last de Homem-Christo—the two French musi- two decades—with goofy masks or cians better known as the robo-attired duo elaborately opaque robot helmets—a Daft Punk—usually make a point of never somewhat tenuous mystique surrounds listening to their past creations, they’d the duo. Earlier this year, a photo of the always let the music play. Despite having Btwo men, taken during what appeared to have been a lived with the song for more than a year, booze-pong party at Columbia Records headquarters, even they weren’t sick of “Get Lucky.” found its way onto Gawker and the Huffington Post. “It’s an unexpected, simple, very cool The incident appears to have only mildly irked Daft surprise,” says de Homem-Christo. “Seeing Punk, but not for the reasons you’d expect. “We didn’t the next car is listening to it, and people are play beer pong,” Bangalter says, laughing. “I don’t nodding. Or the other day, at a restaurant, even know what beer pong is.” seeing kids and mothers having a birthday As anyone who saw that photo knows, the members party, and they’re all dancing. I know it of Daft Punk pretty much look like dudes who would can be annoying, having it everywhere like listen to Daft Punk. Bangalter, 38, is tall and lean, with that, but it seems to have spread.” the vanguard of electronic music, creating one sam- a light beard and an easy smile; on the day we meet, It’s a midsummer afternoon, and Bangalter and ple-jacking, endorphin-morphing hit after another. he’s dressed in a gray Hüsker Dü T-shirt, light gray de Homem-Christo are sitting in a control room at And the group’s ultrarare, mega-elaborate live shows jeans and slip-on sneakers, his hair hidden beneath Conway Recording Studios in Los Angeles, the city helped set the standard for today’s lucrative, specta- a blue-and-red Patagonia hat. De Homem-Christo, that serves as their stateside headquarters. The space cle-driven electronic-dance music festivals. 39, has shoulder-length hair and heavier scruff and is dominated by a gargantuan console teeming with On Random, though, Bangalter and de Homem- is wearing white sneakers, tight black pants, a dark hundreds of buttons and knobs. It looks like the kind of Christo moved toward live instrumentation and a big T-shirt that says “Bad Attitude” and a wishbone pen- device that, were you to flip the wrong switch, would studio sound. And, after years of working largely on dant around his neck. He has a reputation for barely accidentally launch a drone strike on Palm Springs. their own, they brought in a raft of col- A little over a year ago, the two men were work- laborators that ranged from strikingly ing out of this room, overseeing the final mixes of of-the-moment (Pharrell Williams) to bla- not only “Get Lucky”—a song so huge, it would sire tantly anachronistic (Paul Williams, the endless remixes and remakes—but also much of former Muppets collaborator and writer of Random Access Memories, their fourth studio album. such Nixon-era classics as the Carpenters’ Bangalter and de Homem-Christo describe their cre- “We’ve Only Just Begun”). ative process as “research and development,” and for The resulting album features not only Random, they worked without deadlines or budget- the lushly produced disco of “Get Lucky,” ary constraints, with the hope of capturing the scope but also a career-recapping spoken- and sound of mammoth studio-crafted records from word history lesson from 73-year-old the ’70s and early ’80s—a time when cost was not a Italian producer Giorgio Moroder; an key consideration, and when a hit album had the same eight-minute power-ballad featuring reach and life span of a hit movie. Paul Williams, a choir and a 65-person orchestra; and a handful of downer synth ballads that sound like they’re being performed by a GPS device that’s gone off its Wellbutrin. Sonically and culturally, Random talking in interviews, but after initially appearing to resembles nothing else produced in 2013. doze off on the sofa, he becomes nearly as talkative as Yet it’s turned out to be the biggest album of the his longtime friend and partner. group’s 20-year career, aided by a past-forward mar- The two first met in 1987, as eighth-grade art kids keting campaign and, of course, the inescapable “Get at Paris’s Lycée Carnot, where they were surrounded Lucky.” At a time when audiences for everything in the by aspiring bankers (both come from creative back- mass-culture continuum—from summer blockbust- grounds: de Homem-Christo’s parents ran an ad ers to top 10 TV shows—have fractured and dwindled, agency, while Bangalter’s father was a successful “Get Lucky” proves that, every once in a while, a song songwriter). It didn’t take long for them to find one can transcend being merely an affable sing-along hit another. “[The school] was a factory for making busi- and become an omnipotent force across all ages and nessmen,” says Bangalter. “Anybody who had a certain genders. It’s like “Hey Ya!” or “Crazy in Love”—a song aspiration for something creative, whether it’s mov- we’ll pretty much be hearing until we die. ies or music or design, would stand out.” They struck

1113_WSJ_DaftPunk_03.indd 72 10/1/13 11:22 AM 1113_WSJ_DaftPunk_02.indd 73 9/30/13 6:17 PM 10012013104158 09302013171856 “ThE RObOTs ARE VERy METhOdIcAl, buT AT ThE sAME TIME VERy sENsITIVE—NOT IN A NEgATIVE wAy, buT VERy OpEN. ThEIR MusIc Is AlwAys IN cONsTANT puRsuIT Of fEElINg.” —phARREll wIllIAMs

Jam SeSSion Keep things simple with a body-conscious swimsuit by Lisa Marie Fernandez with Christian Louboutin shoe and Bulgari necklace, this page, or pump up the volume with a Giorgio Armani Privé overcoat and top, opposite.

1113_WSJ_DaftPunk_02.indd 74 9/30/13 6:17 PM 1113_WSJ_DaftPunk_02.indd 75 9/30/13 6:17 PM 09302013171856 09302013171856 Daft Punk’s music would continue to mutate over Homem-Christo preferred to do much of their work at the coming years and albums, from the aggro Human home studios, but Random opened them up to “stuff After All (2005) to the swelling, orchestra-aided Tron: we couldn’t really do at home,” says Bangalter, ges- Legacy soundtrack (2010). With each new release, the turing around a large recording area. “We were like, robot masks would undergo some new iteration. For Okay—clap—let’s experiment.” Bangalter and de Homem-Christo, the masks func- Random began in earnest in 2008, when Bangalter tion as a way to ensure privacy: They like being able and de Homem-Christo moved their gear into a giant to go out without being harassed, and they strive to studio and began playing around. Inspiration came keep their personal lives as undocumented as possible from Tron, which they were still in the midst of scor- (neither cares to discuss his family, though both have ing, and which required them to work with a full children, and Bangalter is married to French actress orchestra. Though they’d collaborated with other Élodie Bouchez). musicians in the past—most notably on the 2007 In later years, as the duo got more famous—their West single “Stronger”—as Tron progressed, they legendary 2006–2007 tour found them playing gar- found themselves energized by the prospect of incu- gantuan arenas—the helmets let them avoid all the bating a more open-ended creative community. They insincere glad-handling that comes with being recog- started to see their role on Random less as musicians up a conversation about film—The Lost Boys being nized, especially in the music industry. “You feel it’s and more as filmmakers, shepherding a large group the first of many movies they’d watch and discuss not real when people are, like, petting your back all of disparately talented people and uniting them together. Later, they’d produce their own fanzine, the time,” says de Homem-Christo. But, perhaps most behind a single vision. Banane Mécanique (Clockwork Banana), the first importantly, being cloaked in head-to-toe issue of which featured a mash-up of the poster for suits—the most striking iteration of which A Clockwork Orange and the cover of the album The was designed, with glittery sleekness, by Velvet Underground & Nico. Saint Laurent’s Hedi Slimane—and voice- And though Bangalter and de Homem-Christo both altering electronics grants the members obsessed over vintage acts such as the Doors and Jimi of Daft Punk the ability to disappear from Hendrix—and would spend hours at the library, look- even themselves. “It allows you to forget ing at microfiche of old rock magazines—it would what you’ve done and what you are,” says take years for them to make music together. Their Bangalter. “For us, the idea of always start- first song was a short loop of drum machine and bass, ing from scratch is really interesting.” recorded at Bangalter’s home. “We were ripping off It’s an ethos that goes all the way back this bass line, thinking we were doing something to their early days, right after they came extraordinary,” says de Homem-Christo now, smiling up with “Da Funk.” The track was such at the memory. a crowd-pleaser that Bangalter and de Later, they’d form a ramshackle guitar band, Homem-Christo set out to make a sounda- Darlin’, before immersing themselves in the grow- like sequel. It would have been an easy hit, ing rave movement, regrouping as Daft Punk and but the song was such an obvious unsatis- releasing a series of singles, finally culminating in fying self-homage, they decided not to release it. “That So Bangalter and de Homem-Christo ditched their Homework, which was recorded in Bangalter’s bed- was a big change of direction,” de Homem-Christo samplers and began a years-long series of record- room. It’s a buoyant, grabby debut, anchored by the says. “We said, ‘Let’s try something totally opposite,’ ing sessions, traveling to Los Angeles, Paris and New underwater thump of “Around the World” and the and from that day, we never did the same thing.” York. As with any project they undertake, Bangalter prowling, glitchy bass of “Da Funk.” The album was says, making an album “is so day-to-day. We don’t a critical hit, even in the states, and established Daft angalter, quick and springy, is lead- have a road map or a master plan.” Punk as madcap dance-floor alchemists. ing me around the room at Conway, Perhaps no track exemplifies their calculated It also earned them a reputation as reluctant semi- where they worked not only on capriciousness better than “Get Lucky,” which took stars. When they’d play gigs, de Homem-Christo Random, but also on several tracks for more than a year to record. Bangalter and de Homem- would hide behind equipment or turn his back, Miles Kanye West’s