GLOBAL INTERNET HUB Page 14

The big THE BEST guide OF BOTH to WORLDS PAGE 24 Page 18

THE GLOBETROTTER'S ROUTE TO Page 8 THE WEST COAST

INSPIRATION/LIFESTYLE/CAREER 4 CONTENTS

MOVE TO 4 A permanent pit stop 7 A look at the future

8 The globetrotter's ESBJERG route to the west coast 10 The interior designer

12 International furniture 8 10 ow easy is it to move? for exciting jobs, and we will tell you the with local roots H We want to move you men- story of a city that grew from nothing 14 From fishing port to global tally and physically to the to become not just an offshore hub, internet hub west of . but perhaps the biggest data hub in the Nordics in just a few years' time. 18 The best of both worlds This is where Denmark's fifth-largest There's lots of good advice and guides 21 Mini guide to Fanø city is to be found, a bustling, interna- to Esbjerg's culinary highlights, plus the 22 International upper secondary tional energy metropolis with lots of things to see and experience around the education gains a foothold opportunities for work and career, not Wadden Sea. to mention sport and art at the highest 24 Insider's guide to Esbjerg level. The area as a whole is speckled I moved here myself from Frederiks- 27 Exploring the Wadden Sea with charming villages and small berg. I was amazed at how much

towns, nestled in spectacular scenery, there is to do and see in the city and 30 The Tinder family FURNITURE INTERNATIONAL ROOTS WITH LOCAL 12 PAGE especially , the aesthetic, historical surrounding area. Not to mention 32 Ice arena with and popular gem. the unique mentality found here, international format with energy and business as the key This magazine seeks to present some of activities. It's fun to live a place where 34 Mad about sport 14 the job and lifestyle opportunities that so much happens, and where people 36 A musical lifestyle Esbjerg has to offer. Many of the stories pull together when there's something to will be told by people who already have be done or created. 38 Music academy student with meteoric success moved here to live and work. You will meet entrepreneurs specialising in Enjoy your read! 40 Sustainability on the menu design, people who have moved here Susanne Nordenbæk 43 The art historian's dream job from abroad and the rest of Denmark Director, Business Esbjerg

36 32

Publisher/Business Esbjerg Editor/Marketing Manager Birgit Bech Jensen E-mail/ [email protected] Editorial group/ Business Esbjerg, Related og KIRK & HOLM Copy/editing/ Related Design/ KIRK & HOLM Print/ Rosendahls Photos/ Red Star Publishing date/ 1 February 2019 – Business Esbjerg creates growth and development in the municipality of Esbjerg, marketing the entire area as an attractive place to live, work, study, run a business or take a holiday. Our objective is to bolster Esbjerg's position as Denmark's 'Energy Metropolis' and third growth centre. AN INSIDER'S GUIDE ESBJERG TO 24 PAGE

2 – Energy Metropolis EnergyMetropolis – 3 hen I enter Kaffesmeden, a when he bought the business from his over, there were only three employees, W coffee bar in the centre of father in 1994. but now there are 45, working at offices A PERMANENT Esbjerg, Henrik is already in Esbjerg and . seated in a corner with a cappuccino. It Importing 70,000 new cars every year may only be Wednesday, but this turns Only two years later, when he was 32, "We have a lot of activities within the out to be his second visit there already he happened to come into contact with offshore wind turbine industry, and this week. the Italian Grimaldi Group shipping line. have of course grown in line with its That turned out to be a major turning own expansion on the global market. "I like using the city's cafés, and often point in his career. Together, they set Most of our customers are located hold meetings there instead of at about importing cars to what is now abroad for the same reason, requiring the office," explains this 54-year-old Scandinavian Auto Logistics. Over 70,000 a lot of travel to build the business up. PIT STOP businessman. And there is no doubt that vehicles are now landed at the Port of Nowadays, I leave most of that to others. he holds a lot of meetings. Henrik is the Esbjerg, accounting for around 30% of I'm rarely away from home more than owner of no less than five businesses in Denmark's annual imports. a couple of days every other week." When Henrik Otto Jensen left his job in London Esbjerg and Copenhagen. 'Home' is only ten minutes' walk from in the late eighties to work in Esbjerg, it was only "I helped attract Grimaldi Group to Es- the coffee bar we are in, located in the To and from London bjerg, making it into one of the biggest new Kareen neighbourhood. meant to be temporary. Now the owner of businesses Born in Esbjerg, he moved at an and longest-lasting shipping routes ever in Esbjerg and Copenhagen, he's still here, in a city early age to London to study. After to use Esbjerg. We started off importing "I used to be surrounded by forest and he loves for its scenery and pioneering spirit. working as a trainee at one of the UK's Fiats in 1999, but nowadays handle a sea, but in early 2018 I decided to move oldest shipping lines, he was appointed number of other makes," says Henrik. into city and bought an apartment here. manager of a British shipping firm As a result of his close links with the I love seeing how the city changes at in his early twenties. A road accident Italian line, he has even been awarded close quarters, and things are moving tragically paralysed his father from the one of Italy's highest honours, and is fast at the moment. And being able chest down, causing Henrik to return to also the Vice Chairman of Denmark's to simply walk to work is of course Esbjerg for a while. shipbroker's trade association.

From forest to city In the meantime, his father's former I helped attract business, renamed Niels Winther Mar- Grimaldi Group to itime, grew rapidly. When Henrik took it Esbjerg, making it into one of the biggest and longest-lasting shipping routes ever to use Esbjerg.

"At that time, my father owned and ran Niels Winther & Co., a shipping company, and I came home to try and revive the business after it had started to get into difficulties without him at the helm. Via contacts in London, I managed to win contracts with the bulk coal-car- riers bringing coal to the Esbjerg power station. Things just progressed from there," he says by way of explaining the pit stop that ended up being permanent

4 – Energy Metropolis EnergyMetropolis – 5 wonderful," he says, pointing out the get through that critical early stage. The never been tempted to leave his home nearby Street Food as one of his favourite idea came from a trip to Silicon Valley in city again. venues for an easy evening meal. 2017." He felt immediately that a startup incubator of the kind he had seen there "Esbjerg has lots of space. Neither Plenty of ambition would be perfect in Esbjerg: the roads, bike paths nor beach are A LOOK INTO Cutting down on travel means Henrik ever crowded. I've visited lots of really has more time to pursue new ideas and "There is a unique spirit in Esbjerg. While exciting places around the world, but I initiatives. other cities may have long-established could never be without what Esbjerg and traditions created over the generations, its surroundings can give me, including "I recently helped start up Boost Esbjerg this is a relatively young city. That's why sport on land and sea. – a free incubator for entrepreneurs in it fosters so many entrepreneurs in many THE FUTURE their startup phase. Esbjerg has several ways, people with plenty of ambition. This I love to get out on my mountain and Esbjerg has always been a dynamic city, something that can really shared office facilities, but we needed has been a great place for me to run and racer bikes. In the summer, I sail be seen in recent years. It has become the coyntry's fifth-biggest city, something for the new-starters who were grow my business." competitively in Ho Bugt, along with 10- not yet making money. They need help to 15 other boats. Oh, and I've just started but how will it develop over the next few years? Jesper Frost Space is good to windsurf again. We have the perfect Rasmussen is the mayor, and gives us a few pointers. Even though Henrik has visited lots of conditions here, with lots of open water, exciting places on business trips, he has space ... and wind!"

hat are the highlights hat are your visions for hat do you think W of recent develop- W Esbjerg over the next W Esbjerg will look like ments in Esbjerg? few years? by 2025? We laid out a vision for more of a Esbjerg is Denmark's youngest I think that it will be a city 'city-type environment' in Esbjerg large city, and I would love to comfortable with its role as a city back in 2015. That may sound attract even more people to come in a state of dynamic change, like a bit of a fancy ambition and live here. I'd like to see more as it always has been. We will on paper, but we have already dramatic and attractive buildings have a city that will be even achieved a number of the goals to be able to offer better housing more certain of which direction we set. There is more social and in the city centre. These are all it is going in, something its private housing in the city centre, things we already know can and businesses and inhabitants will and the pedestrian streets have will be achieved over the next few help decide. I'd like to see even undergone extensive renovation to years. I am also looking forward more businesses that recognise link city and port together. The new immensely to seeing how the new the wide range of opportunities bike- and footpath at Landgangen Esbjerg Strand neighbourhood offered by the area, encouraging has created a natural link between turns out. There will be new them to move here. And of the port and the city centre. The office buildings and a marina course, I hope that we have a number of new, varied restaurants here, something Esbjerg's many city that will have even more to and cafés in the city is one of the nautical associations are eagerly offer in the way of the arts and results. awaiting. I hope that Esbjerg culture within music, theatre and Strand will attract even more exhibitions, enriching the old and businesses and tourists to our the young of the city with new city. experiences and impressions.

I hope that Esbjerg Strand will attract even more businesses and tourists to our city. Jesper Frost Rasmussen (V), Mayor

6 – EnergyMetropolis EnergyMetropolis – 7 THINKING OF RELOCATING TO ESBJERG? GET LEVA AND CHRISTIAN'S BEST TIPS HERE!

"I recommend getting involved with some of the associations and clubs that can be found in the city. There's hardly a sport or hobby not represented here," says Leva, who has tried her hand at football, but now sticks to THE GLOBETROTTER'S ROUTE TO tennis and golf. THE WEST COAST

Ieva and Christian Student job with responsibility now, over nine years later." Christian Ieva and Christian work as Strategic gained a PhD in City Branding from the Dragin-Jensen moved Sourcing Buyer for Semco Maritime University of Southern Denmark. here in 2009 from and Cluster Manager for the Service Economist Course at Business Academy Low housing prices and high quality Lithuania and Mexico to Southwest respectively, and moved to of living study at the University of Esbjerg in the summer of 2009 to study Esbjerg has expanded immensely in Southern Denmark. at the University of Southern Denmark. recent years, a process the couple have They did not know each other at that been able to follow closely since moving Even though they both time. Ieva took a master's degree in here in 2010. regarded their stay in public health science and a business academy degree in international trade "One of the first things I noticed when Esbjerg as temporary, and marketing in her native Lithuania. I moved here was that this was a city they now have a home Christian, whose parents come from with ambition. It's been fun watching and careers in the city, Denmark and Portugal respectively, it grow and expand, especially the last has lived in Dubai, Copenhagen, Japan, couple of years, where a lot of student and enjoy a very high Singapore, France, Israel, Poland, Spain, accommodation and the new harbour quality of life. Holland, Scotland and Mexico. area at Esbjerg Strand have been built, bars, cafés and restaurants have opened "Esbjerg is the smallest city I have ever and events have been staged," says Ieva. lived in, but I chose it because it was the place where I could study for an MSc. Christian joins in to add that he finds it 'm due to meet Ieva and along with being able to find a good hard to imagine ever leaving the area I Christian on a quiet street student job with a bit of responsibility. I again: in Sønderris, just north of thought there would be a lot of compe- Esbjerg one Saturday morning. As I turn tition for the really good student jobs in "Esbjerg may seem small at first glance, the corner, I find them both in the car other cities," explained Christian, who but when you get to know it, there's a lot port – just getting out of the car. Their first came to Esbjerg before starting his going on. This is a big small city. I think classic, dark-blue polo shirts and Ieva's studies, having obtained a student job we have a very high quality of life here. pink golfing pants (and the clubs in the at Viking, the manufacturer of survival My brother lives in Copenhagen, and car boot) reveal that they have just come gear for shipping and offshore. I often tease him about house prices. back from the golf course. The bottom line is that we feel we have "I don't mind admitting that my plan the opportunity to live a really good life "We joined the golf club, and now was simply to get my degree and a bit of here." play almost every weekend," explains experience on my CV before moving on. 32-year-old Ieva, while I help carry their But then I met Ieva, and ended up feel- gear into the modern house. ing so at home here that we're still here "Esbjerg may seem small at first glance, but when you get to know it, 8 – EnergyMetropolis there's a lot going on." Energy Metropolis – 9 INTERIOR D DESIGNER After several years SuperBrugsen. Meanwhile, he helped in and their culture, or stick to plain old working in retail in coordinate events for a leading brand black, white and red. My mission is to of alcoholic drink and built a bar at create an individual look, and to improve Copenhagen, 40-year- Festival. But there came a time the image of the business," explains old Michael Tangaa when he simply missed the Michael, who describes his life now as 'a and the wind. hobby with a built-in job' with reference started his own business to Malk de Koijn. in 2014 in Esbjerg. In "I missed the wind on my face. In addition to his own Copenhagen I never thought 'Wow, I've It doesn't just happen really had my fresh air today!' and that's Michael now lives in Esbjerg with his E shared office space, why I moved back to Esbjerg in 2008. wife and two children, from where he he also runs ROOM67, I love being able to see and feel the has designed and fitted out offices, seasons, the wildness of nature, and stores and other forms of commercial a company specialising fantastic growth of the city. These are premises in Esbjerg, , in creative interior all things I think are great about this and Copenhagen in recent years. His design for businesses. place." business now makes sufficient profit to be able to pay him a wage. He has Combining hobby with work also employed a part-time designer, verything in Fabrikskom- A few years taking an education within who takes care of some ROOM67's floor E pagniet, Michael's shared banking and a job as Project Manager in plans. office space business in the a company selling photovoltaic panels centre of Esbjerg, is the result of his followed. But inI May 2013, he began to "I had to fight hard, but I now have an own creative ideas, from the golden- think of setting up his own business. adequate customer base, even though coloured lights, the steel-framed there is always room for more. I love windows, home-made desks, the "I talked to a business mentor to find out it," says Michael, who spends half of concrete coffee table, to the 'creepers' what I needed to do. I've always loved his week at the office and the other on hanging down from the ceiling. interior design, and have made tables customer visits. and other furniture myself. So we ended "I restored the building right from up by concluding that I ought to start a "I get most of my customers via SEO, scratch except for the electricity and webshop selling my own designs along LinkedIn and networking. But I'm also plumbing," says Michael, who started with selected products from Nordic an ice-cold canvasser one or two days letting out office space there in the designers. That led to a hand-picked a month, when I call prospects. You still summer of 2016 and owns ROOM67, via network of suppliers, whom I continue have to break the door down – it doesn't which he creates and develops interior to use to this day in ROOM67," explains just happen," as he says. "I missed the wind on my face. In Copen- design concepts for businesses. Michael, who closed his webshop in November 2015 to concentrate 100% on hagen I never thought 'Wow, I've really Back to the wind interior design. 40-year-old Michael Tangaa grew up in had my fresh air today!' and that's why Esbjerg, but moved to Copenhagen in "I generally think that businesses tend I moved back to Esbjerg in 2008 2002 to start on a retail management to lack any link between their brand training programme run by COOP, and interior design. Lots of them fail to S and took part in redevelopment of think in terms of the industry they are N 10 – EnergyMetropolis G EnergyEnergyMetropolis Metropolis – 11 "It's a bit like roller skating. When to starting a business. The most JACOB MUNCH'S you try them out for the first time, important thing is to be passionate BEST ADVICE FOR you won't be much good. But if you about what you are doing, believe are persistent, you get better with in yourself, and then opportunities ENTREPRENEURS practice, and the same applies pop up along the way," says Jacob. INTERNATIONAL SFURNITURE SUCCESS WITH LOCAL ROOTS

An old friendship, a trip company was registered in 2011, and the owners in their modest pride after to South America and a now designs and manufactures dining Uwinning the Gazelle Award in 2017, given tables, sofas and chairs in addition to to healthy, fast-growing businesses: number of old drawings the original coffee tables. helped found what is now "It was wonderful to be acknowledged Danish-made at seven different as an expanding business. But it's not Bruunmunch Furniture: factories really anything to get excited about, as An internationally- All Bruunmunch Furniture products for us the bottom line is most impor- are made in Denmark at no less than tant." Jakob and Henrik are currently renowned furniture seven different factories specialising in working towards an annual turnover of business, producing steel, concrete, wood, chairs, sofas and DKK 20 million by 2021, putting a range its wares in Denmark. shelves. of initiatives into effect:

"We really had to 'learn by doing' along "We have drawn all our designs in 3D, the way. That cost us a lot of money so that architects can easily use our sometimes, but was also a really healthy products when designing buildings such hildhood friends Henrik process that gave us a lot of experience as hotels. We're working on a new C Bruun, 36, and Jacob Munch, and a great understanding of how to run product range aimed at the contract 35, had always dreamed of this type of business. I think we are now market, and developing our own starting their own business. Jacob is a well in control of the various processes webshop. We've also hired one of qualified joiner, and when he travelled from idea, through design and material Denmark's leading PR bureaux to build around South America for two years specification to prototype, modifications, more awareness on the Danish market. in the late 00s, he spent some of his production, sales and marketing," So far, we have earned most of our evenings designing. His pastime led to claims Jacob, resident in Hjerting, turnover outside Denmark," concludes the founding of Bruunmunch Furniture: north of Esbjerg with his wife and four Jacob. children. "I learned to draw simple plan elevation drawings when trainingC to be a joiner, Aiming for high turnover which I used to design a range of coffee The business now has dealers in almost E tables. When I came home, I showed my 20 countries and has turned over a designs to Henrik, who luckily was game total of DKK 20 million. There is still for starting something together." The no hiding the west roots of 12 – EnergyMetropolis C SEnergy Metropolis – 13 FROM FISHING VILLAGE TO GLOBAL INTERNET HUB

A decision was taken in 1868 to build 250 metres of quays in an area now known as the Port of Esbjerg. Over 150 years and 12 km of quays later, the historic entrepreneurial spirit can still be felt, in what is now Denmark's offshore capital, and a global hub for data and internet connections.

ven on a foggy winter's day, Jørgen Dieckmann, head of the city Denmark's Chicago But Esbjerg remained a maritime and leading port in Denmark for the installa- E the view from Esbjerg's archives, takes up the story of the Rapid expansion in the late 1800s and fishing port. The city only really began tion of offshore wind farms with an export East Dock over the city is building of a 250 metre-long quay, early 1900s gave Esbjerg the reputation to change when oil exploration took off, value of close to DKK 100 billion, we are impressive. Gigantic wind turbines are laid completed in 1874: "After the 1864 war, of being Denmark's Chicago. with the opening of the huge oil fields also the world leader. A host of multina- out along the quay ready to be shipped as when Denmark lost Schleswig-Holstein, in the 1980s, and massive expansion in tional corporations have been attracted a symbol of a green future, according to a new port had to be built on the west "Esbjerg became known as the city of the 1990s, followed by yet another wave here, radically increasing the level of the former Port Director, whilst the power coast. Esbjerg was selected because opportunity: if you had a good idea, it when green offshore and offshore wind activity," says Ole Ingrisch, who also refers station chimney towers in the background, the seabed quickly shelved downwards could be realised here. Esbjerg was an turbines started to appear in the 00s. The to the change in the job market: perhaps as a symbol of the past. here, which was important at a time alternative for some people to the long growing needs of the offshore industry when construction machinery consisted and risky journey over the Atlantic, whilst for highly-educated personnel made it "This is the view that Esbjerg should of shovels, spades, wheelbarrows and others ended up staying here on their way necessary to build a concert hall and be most proud of. It represents the horse-drawn carts. There was a village to America. When vast stocks of plaice other arts institutions. Over a period of green transition that the city has been here at that time with just 23 inhabit- were found to exist on Horns Reef, fisher- about 20 years, Esbjerg was transformed THE HAVFRUE a particular powerhouse for, creating ants, and the building of the port meant men also moved to the area. That meant from a fishing port to a fully-fledged city PROJECT growth, jobs and internationalisation the coming of the railway, able to trans- that Esbjerg had become one of the most with all the amenities we have come to right here. Just over 10 years ago, this port livestock for export by sea. But the important fishing ports in Europe by the expect," concludes Morten. 'Havfrue' is a was the seabed," says Ole Ingrisch, reformation of the farming industry in 1960s," explains Morten Hahn-Pedersen, 7,000 km as he shows me around the dock area 1879 meant an additional boost for the an author, researcher and former Director From labourers to high-tech workforce long fibre cable between specifically built for the wind turbine new port, for imports as well as exports. of the Fisheries and Maritime Museum, The results of progress can be seen Esbjerg and New Jersey, industry, with a price tag of over DKK 1.5 Esbjerg became a major exporter of Esbjerg, concerning the next spurt in all over the city, which only 150 years linking the giant data centre billion in construction costs. bacon, butter and eggs to Great Britain. the growth of business and industry that ago consisted of nothing more than two hubs in the USA and Ireland Meanwhile, commercial fishing rose to heavily influenced the city: farms and a couple of cottages. The with Scandinavia. It was laid An accidental city prominence as an industry, and by 1901, most remarkable transformation is on by a consortium consisting As you drive along the 12 km of quays there were over 13,000 people living "The city spread, and several of the the waterfront. of Google, Facebook, Aqua that now comprise the Port of Esbjerg, in Esbjerg, which had become a real small, outlying villages were absorbed, Comms and TE SubCom. it's hard to imagine that its creation was borough with inhabitants from the USA, where housing areas, suburbs and "Esbjerg became Denmark's offshore hub something of an accident. Sweden, Norway and Germany." industrial estates were also appearing. for wind, oil and gas. We are not just the

14 – EnergyMetropolis EnergyMetropolis – 15 Jobs in the port primarily consisted of made its mark on the digital map," claims maintained an open attitude towards the unskilled labour related to commercial Karsten Rieder, Head of Business at world at large. Ever since the port was fishing in the 1990s. There are now just Business Esbjerg. He calls developments built, the city has lived on its dealings under 200 businesses located in the within digital communications in the area with other countries, and that's still COWI'S REPORT port, many of them with highly-qualified over the last few years Esbjerg's 'major something that can be seen today." According to a report compiled by COWI workforces, including engineers, new business opportunity'. Jørgen himself relocated here from for the Nordic Council of Ministers, technicians and skilled workers." Copenhagen, and could not fail to notice investment in data centres in the Nordic "IT companies are not the only ones who that DNA. countries will double between 2019- Global internet hub need good data links. Any business that 2024, to a projected annual amount In parallel with Esbjerg's progress needs to have data in the cloud, such as "You can still feel the entrepreneurial invested in construction of between Eur within offshore industries, the fifth- global corporations, web hosting providers and pioneer spirit of the people who 2 and 4.3 billion. The Nordic countries biggest city in Denmark has also and app developers, benefits from the came here 150 years ago. Esbjergers are attractive for five reasons: Abundant become a Nordic hub for data traffic. close proximity of an internet hub able are willing to take risks, they are sustainable energy, consistency of sup- The subsea COBRA cable links Esbjerg to ensure the best quality connections. entrepreneurial, hard-working and yet ply, low energy prices, political stability and Holland, while the Havfrue (mer- That's why we expect a solid boost for modest. In fact, I believe that many of and an attractive business climate. maid) – a 7,000 km transatlantic fibre local businesses and employment figures the things that made fishing a success cable stretching between Esbjerg and for many years to come," he explains. here, such as their toughness and being ABOUT THE New Jersey – has made global internet able to work in all weathers, still play giants consider the city for investments. An Esbjerger's DNA a role in the city's current success," COBRA CABLE "Despite consistent expansion and the believes Ole Ingrisch. His opinions are "Apart from the physical port, we have many transformations Esbjerg has been shared by Morten Hahn-Pedersen: The COBRA cable was the first to carry electricity between Denmark and also become an 'internet port', linking through as a port and a city, Esbjergers Holland. The 300 km long subsea cable Esbjerg with the rest of the world. The have always had one thing in common," "Anything is possible in Esbjerg. The runs from Esbjerg to Eemshaven. interest shown by the big internet says Jørgen Dieckmann Rasmussen: impossible is simply something that companies in investing billions here only takes a bit longer," he states with a serves to emphasise the city's role in the The DNA of Esbjergers. They've always smile. digital infrastructure. Esbjerg has really been flexible, robust, stuck together and Esbjerg's history in brief 18681868 18741874 19011901 20182018 The Act on the Construc- The Port of Esbjerg Esbjerg becomes Esbjerg is Denmark's fifth-biggest ciy with tion of a Port at Esbjerg opens for shipping, and Denmark's 8th biggest a population of over 73,000 and over 60,000 is passed. The village has the Lunderskov- city with a population of jobs, 12,500 of which are related to the energy 23 inhabitants. railway line opens. 18,000. sector.

⅔rds⅔ of the world's wind 18701870 18991899 20132013 20192013 turbines are shipped via The population of Esbjerg Esbjerg becomes a borough (due The East Dock is opened on Esbjerg becomes reaches 400. to the density of its built-up areas, 21 June, now used exclu- Northern Europe's the Port of Esbjerg permanent housing and economic sively for wind turbines data hub specialisation).

16 – EnergyMetropolisEnergy Metropolis EnergyEnergyMetropolis Metropolis – 17 Did you know? ...that a place at kin- dergarten on Fanø only costs around DKK 1600 per month? That's THE BEST OF half price compared to many large towns and cities. ...that the Fanø ferry sails 2-3 times an hour all day – from early morning until BOTH WORLDS midnight. After five years living on the mainland, Søs and Johannes moved to Fanø to get closer to nature and a slower pace of life. Esbjerg is only twelve minutes away, giving them the best of both worlds.

s soon as I land on the island to Johannes when she began to talk sit in the kitchen drinking coffee. They A of Fanø – just twelve minutes about moving back there in late 2015, moved in March 2016. after the ferry sailed from after they had spent five years restoring Esbjerg – I can feel the strength of a house just outside Esbjerg. "We are delighted with the house. We the local spirit. The people embarking have never been so socially-involved as or disembarking smile to each other, "I missed the horizon. Johannes thought we have been since moving here. It's so exchanging a friendly word as they pass. I'd gone crazy," she says with a smile much easier to get to know people, be- The same applies to Søs Josefsen, my when I ask her why she wanted to go cause it's a relatively small community. fellow passenger from Esbjerg. Within back. I mean, we were invited to come and eat the few minutes it takes from the ferry with the other parents over at the school port to her home, we meet a stream of "There's a special feeling of closeness just after we moved in, for example. And people she knows. and helpfulness here. I had a very there's actually a lot of life here, with secure childhood, yet quickly learned to cafés, concerts, talks and even stand-up "Hello Manfred," she waves to a passing become independent, cycling to school comedy – the same things you find in man, who, she tells me, is one of the and leisure pursuits. I'd like to be able to much bigger cities. But you still don't committee running the local cinema, give the same to my son," she explains. need to walk for more than five minutes before we turn right on the cobbled Søs managed to persuade her better to find yourself in the woods or on the high street, and pass through her half that they ought to move over a beach," enthuses Johannes, who was white-painted gate to the house where period of two months. pleasantly surprised by the 'can-do' Søs lives with her husband Johannes attitude of people on the island. Josefsen, their 3-year-old son Hjalte An unparalleled social life and their two cats. Initially, they reserved a site to build a "If you've got a good idea, it's easy to house on the northern tip of the island. realise it. Collective activities are big A secure childhood But they were then offered the chance over here, with everything from handball Søs is an Administration Assistant at to buy a totally-renovated two-storey and football, through winter bathing and Business Esbjerg, and grew up on Fanø. house just a stone's throw from the high gymnastics to unicycling, hockey, riding, Nevertheless, it came as a bit of a shock street and the ferry port, where we now sailing and music classes," he says.

18 – EnergyMetropolis "We still get up at More time easily get on my mountain bike and bike Their way of life as a family on Fanø is along the paths behind here, and in the MINI-GUIDE TO 6 am, send Hjalte very similar to that they had in Esbjerg. summer we often bike out to the beach to kindergarten with our dinner. It only takes 8 minutes "We still get up at 6 am, send Hjalte to to get there," explains Johannes. at 7 and then take kindergarten at 7 and then take the ferry the ferry to work to work at 7.30, the same time as we Woodland oasis used to leave home when we lived on They also like to bike around the 15 km at 7.30, the same the mainland. There is a social aspect long island at the weekend, with one SIX THINGS TO time as we used to to taking the same ferry as almost half place in particular as their favourite. of the island to get to work. It's really FANØ DO AND SEE. leave home when nice," says Søs, who usually picks Hjalte "The woodland playground on the way we lived on the up on her return at 3.30 pm, while to Sønderho is a little oasis. It's hard Johannes often takes the ferry a couple to find, because it's hidden deep in the 6 mainland. of hours later after leaving his job as woods. There are huts, grills, shelters, swings and an activity course. We held Hjalte's birthday party out there one year, taking our own food for a picnic," says Søs, who also loves living with a view all the way to the horizon again: FAMOUS HUMOROUS LOCAL "Going down the hill and watching the SALMON BEERS SPECIALITIES view of both sea and sky open up as far as the eye can see is simply the best Fanø Laks produces cold-smoked salmon Fanø Bryghus has been brewing tasty Rudbecks is the place for the taste of feeling. That's the essence of Fanø for using old-fashioned methods. All the hop-based beers according to the Amer- the Wadden Sea and south-western me." salmon is sorted, sliced, trimmed and ican craft beer tradition since 2009, with Jutland. This combined delicatessen and salted by hand. The slices are then hung a little added humour, creative names café serves baguette sandwiches, tapas, A mental journey in a cold place for 24 hours before being and specially-designed labels. The burgers and other specialities, along Apart from visiting family, the only thing smoked using cool North Sea air in a spe- products are sold a number of places in with other delicacies such as cheeses, that attracts the family to the mainland cial smoking chamber. The process takes Denmark, but taste best in the sunshine jams, salmon and ham to take home, all in their leisure time is the indoor 3½ days, and ensures the meat achieves on the brewery's own terrace. produced on the premises or locally. swimming pool. the texture and quality that have made Fanø Laks famous throughout Europe. fanoebryghus.dk rudbecks.dk "We take our 'Long John' bike and get on the ferry, and bike up to the swim- fanoe-laks.com ming pool complex," says Johannes, who is not the least bothered about the ferry now being the family's primary form of transport.

"Something or other happens in your mind when you get on the ferry. You can almost see how people relax when taking it home from work. It only takes HOME-MADE KNITTING MUSIC, FOOD 12 minutes, but it does have some form QUALITY FESTIVAL AND PEOPLE IT Department Manager at Blue Water of effect. In the summer, the trip is Shipping. The evenings are spent on also a good opportunity to enjoy what's Slagter Christiansen has been selling This major, international knitting fes- Fanø Vesterland is an event at which leisure pursuits and dinner, although popularly known as a 'ferry beer' or ice high-quality products since 1994, based tival is held on Fanø every year. During music, food and people achieve com- with one major difference to their past cream with your mates. on the best ingredients and traditional the event, the island buzzes with life as plete harmony. The food stalls feature life: craftsmanship. He is best known for happy people invade to take part in the local suppliers, organic food, high-qual- Being dependent on a ferry will no doubt his 'Fanø Skinke', a ham regarded by festival, and to experience something of ity and sustainability, whilst the stages "We have more time, because we can put some people off. But it sails 2 or 3 foodies as the Danish answer to Spanish the delights of Fanø itself. Up to 15,000 play host to new and established enter- get to and from work so quickly, and times an hour. If you can live with that, Jamón Ibérico. people attend the knitting festival. tainers. when we come home, everything is then, in our view, you get the best of on our doorstep. We used to have to both worlds." fanoeslagteren.dk strikkefestival.dk fanoevesterland.dk always drive, necessitating having two cars. Nowadays, we cycle instead. I can

20 – EnergyMetropolis EnergyMetropolis – 21 and many of them come from Esbjerg "I am delighted to have the opportunity Practical International School: to attend IB in Esbjerg. My older brother information on IB INTERNATIONAL started on IB in 2015, but had to study The International Bacca- "Around a third of our students have foreign in Kolding. He had some very long days laureate (IB) is a two-year parents, and come from an international because of nearly two hours commuting international upper secondary school system – either from Esbjerg on public transport each way. I have education that can be taken or some other place in the world, with more freedom and time to do my in over 100 countries. another third having at least one Danish homework because I can attend IB in UPPER SECONDARY parent, and thus first-hand knowledge of Esbjerg," explains Asher, who moved IB at Esbjerg Gymnasium Denmark and Danish-speaking. The final to Denmark with his family from South combines elements from the third come from 'ordinary' Danish schools Africa in 2013. His father is an engineer Danish and international and family backgrounds. working for Total in Esbjerg, and Asher educational structures, by plans to follow in his footsteps: basing the programme on EDUCATION Saving four hours of commuting lessons in classes, whilst One of the students on Esbjerg Gymna- "I want to study to become an engineer maintaining focus on activities GAINS A FOOTHOLD sium's IB course is Asher David Japhta, when I am finished here. But I don't yet regardless of student age. who came from Esbjerg International know whether I will study in Denmark School and is currently studying English, or abroad," he says on his plans for the mathematics and physics at advanced future. Esbjerg level on IB2: International School Around 8% Many of the students on the of final year students An international upper that. The way things are going, we expect IB programme in Esbjerg from Esbjerg Inter- have previously attended secondary course known to reach the final goal of 45-50 students within the next couple of years," says national School take Esbjerg International School, under the initials of 'IB' Marianne Helms, Vice Principle and IB IB at Esbjerg with just under 300 students has already fulfilled the Coordinator at Esbjerg Gymnasium. Gymnasium. from 6-16 years-old, success criteria defined making it a small school An expanding international by international standards. for it when launched at environment The students represent Esbjerg Gymnasium (upper Achieving such a solid foothold is due to 44 different nationalities, secondary school) in 2015. the expanding international environment with around 55% being the children of expats, whilst the According to the school, in Esbjerg according to Marianne. rest have at least one Danish its popularity is due to the "We first started to talk about IB in the parent, but have often lived expanding international early 00s, but thought at that time that part of their life abroad. environment in Esbjerg. it would not be financially viable. But as Esbjerg has gradually become an The school expects to be 'energy metropolis', attracting more fully IB-certified within and more foreign workers, the need for the near future, making it hen 'IB', the international an international school system arose, even easier for students to W upper secondary education capable of taking students all the way switch from one IB school course, was launched at from international school to IB and to another elsewhere in the Esbjerg Gymnasium in 2015, 30 students onwards into English language university world, because the tutorial enrolled for the 'Pre-IB' starter course. courses. Being able to send their children style, language used etc., The number of students has grown to an English-speaking school is a great will be the same. Similarly, since then year-on-year. Such consistent comfort to foreign workers, and a school the transition to the inter- growth means that the success criteria with an international system that will make national upper secondary defined prior to its launch have been it possible to continue their education in programme, IB, based on fulfilled, meaning it is already fully another country if necessary." the same system, will be a financially sustainable. natural step. 20 different nationalities "One of our goals was to get 35 students Marianne thinks the school has students enrolled per year, and we have achieved with around 20 different nationalities,

22 – EnergyMetropolis Energy Metropolis – 23 THE BEST PLACE TO HAVE A PICNIC? If we want to go to the beach, we usually go out to the 'four white men', or to Vejers Strand, about 30 minutes' drive from here. When it comes THE BEST PLACE TO SPEND A FRIDAY to greenery, we love Vogns- INSIDER EVENING? bølparken and Nørreskoven, If we're going out for a bottle of wine, with Dyrehaven on its edge. we go to Portlands – and if we want Østskoven is also a lovely cocktails, we go to Brass Monkey, the place. GUIDE Copenhagen branch of which was was Lasse Toft Eriksen, 40, voted the capital's best cocktail bar. Organist Christian Dragin-Jensen, 33, TO Cluster Manager THE BEST SUNDAY OUTING? THE BEST BEER? If we don't go to Fanø or Blåvand, we go Where can you find the juiciest Fanø has a great local brewery, Fanø into Hjerting Strandpark or Marbæk. We ESBJERG Bryghus, where you can enjoy a special have some of Denmark's most beautiful burgers, the most beautiful view beer or take home. scenery around here. and the best place to spend Nema Rahin, 26, Innovation Manager Henrik Bruun, 36, Furniture Designer a Friday evening (or Saturday morning)? We asked Esbjergers THE MOST EXCITING DELICATESSEN? BEST PARK IN CITY? When we're going shopping for the I strongly recommend IC Møllerparken, for their recommendations on weekend, we like to go over to Fanø close to the library. A truly lovely place! the best places in city! Where to buy meat and delicacies at Slagter Astrid Mischorr-Boch, 14, Student Christiansen. can you find … Jacob Munch, 35, Furniture Designer NATURE AND SCENERY NATURE

THE BEST PLACE TO GRILL? THE GREASIEST BURGER? In the summer, we often go The greasier the burger, the better for to Vognsbølparken to play me. Posthuset is my favourite venue at football and grill with friends. the moment. THE BEST WALK? Christian Dragin-Jensen, 33, Michael Tangaa, 40, The scenery and the western wind Cluster Manager Interior Design Expert are the things I really missed when living in Copenhagen. We often go to THE TASTIEST LUNCH? Marbæk Plantage, climb the 'yellow We love the Rankin Park café, THE CRISPEST PIZZA? hill', go for a walk in the plantation or the home of great-tasting We love Mammas. And next go down to the beach. organic food. door is the Italian dessert Michael Tangaa, 40, Maja Steendorph, 30, Doctor restaurant, Gelato di Natura. THE BEST PLACE TO MEET Interior Design Expert But if we want pizza takeaway, YOUR FRIENDS? we go over to Hjertingvej. Street Food is great, because THE BEST COFFEE? There's a great place there in it has something for everyone. THE BEST PLAYGROUND? I go to Portlands for the best in coffee an old grill bar. It doesn't look You can get all sorts of differ- We love taking the ferry or juice. Our office is next door, and like much from the outside, but ent foods but still eat together. to Fanø, where there is an we worked on the interior design of they make delicious stone oven For example, if someone excellent outdoor playground the café, and sort of belong there now. pizzas. wants Indian and others want in the middle of the island. That's also where we drink gin and tonic Christina Mischorr-Boch, 38, traditional Danish food. Maja Steendorph, 30, Doctor on Fridays. Coordinator Astrid Mischorr-Boch, 14, Henrik Bruun, 36, Furniture Designer Student FOOD AND FOOD DRINK

24 – EnergyMetropolisEnergy Metropolis EnergyEnergyMetropolis Metropolis – 25 - Photo: Lars Gejl

THE BEST PLACE TO SPOIL YOURSELF? EXPLORE THE When we have our parents here to babysit, we love to go to the spa at Hvidbjerg Strand in Blåvand. It's a really nice place, WADDEN SEA where you can indulge in such pleasures as sitting in a jacuzzi with a view over the North Sea. The Wadden Sea National Park Maja Steendorph, 30, Doctor THE BEST IN was designated a UNESCO World THE ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENTS? We've been in 'Den Lille Biograf' (the Heritage site in 2014, and is a little cinema), which is part of the wonderland of fun, fascinating ARTS AND ENTER TAINMENT concert hall and shows lesser-known and educational experiences for films a couple of times. We also love the Esbjerg Art Museum. young and old alike. Trine Toft Eriksen, 41, THE BEST MUSIC VENUE? Music school teacher We frequently go to Huset Esbjerg, where there are jam sessions every Tuesday. It's THE LIVELIEST EVENTS great to have a place where FOR KIDS? students can meet and play. We go to the central library a We also often go to concerts at lot, almost every week. When Tobakken and Konfus. Konfus the kids were small, it was to is a bit underground, making it use the playrooms, but now a great contrast to such places it's to hear lectures or just to as the Musikhuset concert sit and read When the autumn hall, where there is more focus programme comes from the on the big shows. And once in THE MOST SOCIAL PLACE IN library, I always take a look at a while we go to X-perimentet, THE COUNTRY? what concerts and events are a kind of open stage. One of the best things about coming. Some of the things Ellen Østervig Bathum, 23, Esbjerg is all the sports clubs. we've been to include a fantasy Read more on the next page Music student and musician Whether it's tennis, running, festival, lectures and children's curling or water sports, it's concerts. easy to find others with the Christina Mischorr-Boch, 38, same interest. This is a very Coordinator active city. I'm a member of the tennis and golf clubs myself. Ieva Dragin-Jensen, 32, Strategic Sourcing Buyer

26 – EnergyMetropolisEnergy Metropolis Energy Metropolis – 27 Photo: Lars Gejl

Photo: Colin Seymour

Photo: The Wadden Sea National Park Photo: Adam Mørk Photo: Thomas Skjold

Photo: Vadehavscentret THE INVISIBLE DANCING MUSEUM NATURAL PHE- NOMENON The TIRPITZ bunker museum in Blåvand has transformed a historic German Twice a year, the amazing sight of bunker from WWII into an innovative, murmuration can be seen every evening, architectural complex of concrete, steel THROUGH when massive swarms of starlings take and glass. The museum was designed to the wing near Ribe, Denmark's oldest by BIG, the Bjarne Ingels Group, to blend THE EYES OF town, searching for a roosting site for in with the surrounding dunes, which is THE WADDEN the night. Ribe is one of the few places THE WADDEN why TIRPITZ is also called 'the invisible MIGRATORY in Scandinavia where such a huge WIND-BLOWN museum'. The four subterranean galler- SEA AFTER of dancing migratory birds can be seen. ies present permanent and temporary BIRDS They gather in the marshes during the SEA'S OWN exhibits on WWII and the history of the autumn to fatten up on the way to their FESTIVALS west coast, including a 4D presentation DARK winter home, and are back again in the DELICACY every two hours. The museum is also Just outside Ribe is the Vadehavscentret, spring on their return journey. Back in The breezy western wind has made the home to the biggest amber collection in a centre dedicated to the Wadden Sea Around three times a year, there is the the 1970s, the phenomenon was given broad beaches along the Wadden Sea a At low tide in the Wadden Sea, you can Western Europe. A tunnel runs into the and its thousands of migratory birds. chance to experience life in the Wadden the Danish name of '', which favourite destination for kite enthusiasts gather fresh oysters, one of the world's historic old bunker from the museum The centre reopened in 2017 after a Sea after dark, when the centre arranges means 'black sun', because it can actu- of all ages. A sky full of colourful kites best delicacies, and completely for free. building, where shadow theatre major renovation and extension, making guided tours across the sea bed in the ally eclipse the sun itself. The best times is a sight that can often be seen on days One thing to remember is that you can techniques are used to portray what the thatched building twice as big. The middle of the night. The guide takes of year to see murmuration are from late with good winds. Some of the world's gather oysters in all the months that life would have been like there, as the range of interactive exhibits look at the you at a leisurely pace along the 6-7 March to early April, and September/ best kite flyers can be seen in action have an R in their name. Taking a guide bunker was never actually used. Wadden Sea through the eyes of mi- km route from Mandø to the mainland October. Finding a local guide who knows here every year in July and September. who knows the Wadden Sea and the best gratory birds, and there is a lot to learn dressed in wellington boots, and holds the habits of the is recommend- Thousands of kite flyers gather on Fanø oyster banks is recommended. Your guide The museum won the '2019 Institute about its landscape and fauna. One ex- frequent pauses. Many of the birds here ed. The show usually lasts for 1½-2 and Rømø when these two islands will also be able to give you tips and tricks Honor Awards for Architecture', one of ample is an installation in which visitors can easily navigate in the dark, and do hours from when the first starlings take play host to their own respective kite on how to prepare your oysters for eating, the USA's major awards. can become part of the massive swarms not go to sleep when the sun goes down to the wing, until the sun goes down. festivals, some of the biggest in Europe. either on the beach or at home. Apart of migratory birds, and experience the as we imagine. You can be lucky enough Apart from starlings, there are many The fantastic kites come in all shapes from guided oyster gathering, there are a feeling of flying over the Wadden Sea. on one of the walks to pass thousands other species of migratory birds here in and sizes to compete on being the lot of other events in the autumn dedicat- See more at tirpitz.dk There are also creative workshops, for of geese grazing on the salt meadows, the autumn, such as the Arctic Goose, most beautiful and best. The festival ed to the oyster, including Oyster Trophy experimenting with wing span and flight or experience the phenomenon of renowned for their sky dancing, referred programmes also feature a wide range Week and the Fanø Oyster Festival, both range, building sand dykes, learning phosphorescence, which turns the water to as 'grå sol' (grey sun). of other activities for spectators. of which take place in week 42, featuring about bird anatomy and food chains, and jellyfish almost fluorescent. The everything from pop-up restaurants, or experimenting with water and salt guide navigates using GP, and only uses food trucks and a market, to champagne content. a torch when necessary. After the 3-4 See more at naturstyrelsen.dk See more at visitfanoe.dk and romo.dk tasting and lectures on oysters and their hour walk, the centre serves a portion of erotic properties. hot soup before the participants depart See more at vadehavscentret.dk for their beds in the early hours of the morning. See more at vadehavsøsters.dk and nationalparkvadehavet.dk See more at vadehavscentret.dk 28 – EnergyMetropolisEnergy Metropolis EnergyEnergyMetropolis Metropolis – 29 THE TINDER FAMILY

Thanks to a combination be close to the sea – something I'd been I have more responsibility here than I of the online dating missing," explains Maja, who grew up on would have working in, say, Aarhus or the island of Langeland before studying Copenhagen," he states. site Tinder and a series medicine in . of coincidences, Maja About the same time that Nema started FA Steendorph from Odense Consequently, she moved to Esbjerg in work, Maja began her second onboard- the summer of 2015. In September of ing process in occupational medicine. and Nema Rahin from the same year, she extended her Tinder Before she started maternity leave in Aarhus found each other dating radius to the maximum, and September 2017, they managed to get found Nema, who was living in Aarhus married on the beach at Blåvand with and their way to Esbjerg, at the time: close relatives as witnesses, and buy the where they are now mar- house they moved into in May 2018 all "I had just returned from a three-month within the space of a week, and only 6 ried, working and living. trip to Asia after getting my degree, months later, Nohr arrived – the point at and was looking for a job. Only four which they also invited Energy Metropo- heir newly-built, sand- months (and a number of train journeys) lis for coffee, crispbread and dates. T coloured house is just a later, I decided to move down to Maja in 25 minute bike ride north Esbjerg," says Nema, a qualified diploma Freedom with responsibility of Esbjerg, and 30-year-old Maja engineer in Healthcare Technology. Maja is now back at work at the hospital, welcomes me at the door. 26-year-old which has around 33,000 admissions Nema sits in their high-ceilinged living Help from the 'Newcomer Service' and 390,000 outpatients per year, and is room on a foam rubber play mat, with With help from Esbjerg Municipality's one of the biggest employers in Esbjerg. their 11 month-old son, Nohr. Back in 'Newcomer Service', Nema was able to 2015, they were both students in Odense find temporary work as Project Manager "We are well-staffed here, and it's a and Aarhus respectively, and had no at the Esbjerg Health Centre even before good place to work: There is always knowledge of each other's existence. moving to the area. When the contract a specialist available when you need They now have a house, wedding rings expired, he decided to attend the Esbjerg help. If I compare notes with my former and full-time jobs – and have become career fair, where he got talking to student colleagues working elsewhere, parents. someone from Vestfrost Solutions. He's we have more time and capacity at MI now employed as Innovation Manager this hospital for me to acquire the "When I started on my Basic Clinical in the company's biomedical segment, competences I am most interested Training programme, I could choose making refrigerator and freezer in. I don't have to spend eight hours from a range of hospitals to study at. I cabinets for the healthcare sector. a day updating patient notes. I am chose the South West Jutland Hospital, also allowed enormous freedom with because they had a good reputation for "When I compare my situation with that responsibility. It's a really great place to training and education. I also needed to of my friends, I get the impression that work," she says.

Maja and Nema have liked each other. 30 – EnergyMetropolis LY EnergyMetropolis – 31 ICE ARENA WITH

ICE HOCKEY Esbjerg Energy is a INTERNATIONAL professional Danish ice hockey team in the Metal league. Home games are played at Granly FORMAT Hockey Arena, which was originally built in 1976, the third-biggest in A new, ultra-modern ice arena in Esbjerg Denmark, with a capacity of 4,378. will set the stage for top class ice hockey in Esbjerg Energy has the future. The new arena is epoch-making won the Danish championship 7 for the sport, which in many ways is times, and was synonymous with Esbjerg. the first to win the championship in Jutland.

t the Blue Water Dokken for 450 dining guests and direct access become part of the city's identity in Esbjerg Energy's players are local lads style of play the coach has chosen. And that was used right up until 2018. So the A sports hall complex in Esbjerg to the VIP stand. What we now have are many ways. Esbjerg has been involved who started in the clubs as juniors. even though Denmark is not the most new arena represents a new epoch. We there is a little club house. the latest facilities with the potential ever since ice hockey first came to lucrative place in the world to play ice now have the facilities that match those Behind the half-open windows I can hear to attract international ice hockey Denmark, and many of the top players "Since the club in its present form was hockey, we have built a reputation here the handball and football players in loud, laughing male voices. I find they be- matches," says Peder, pointing towards – including Kjeld Bjerrum, a member founded in 2013, almost half of our players for being able to develop players who Esbjerg have. We can present ice hockey long to a group of fit young men, dressed the stands and catering outlets from our of the Danish Ice Hockey Union's Hall every year have been home-grown. We progress to the major leagues. Many at the very highest level we can manage in tracksuits and flip-flops as they come vantage point in the lounge: of Fame – came from here. You could believe that our most important task is to players in the first and second German in Denmark, right here in Esbjerg," out of the door. "They are all members of almost say that ice hockey is a sport ensure that Esbjergers want to continue leagues have often played in Esbjerg, for declares Peder, who has a clear vision the Esbjerg Energy ice hockey team, on "The crowd can buy their food and that belongs to Esbjerg. Of course, playing ice hockey, so that we can continue example. And the players know that if for the club: their way to their daily training," explains drinks here, avoiding them having to things have gone up and down a bit nurturing our own young talents. The they can't get to play in Germany, many Peder S. Krogsgaard, the Chief executive leave the building at all. over the years, that's how it goes with number varies from year to year of course, of them are happy to play in Esbjerg for "Our objective is to continue being the of Esbjerg Energy, who welcomes me at sport, but Esbjerg has been one of the and we therefore have to attract other a few years." leading club in Denmark – in terms of the players' home ground just a stone's A sport that belongs to Esbjerg most consistently-successful clubs in good players here to play. We benefit in sport and bottom line! throw from the club house. Renovation Even though the ice arena alongside Denmark," relates Peder, with a look that respect from the 'Esbjerg scheme' Epoch-making arena and expansion work has transformed the the Blue Water Dock is new, the city's towards the championship signs above that makes it possible to combine sport Peder believes the new arena will be old skating rink into an ultra-modern ice ice hockey tradition goes back a long the stands in the hall. at top level with taking an education in a major attraction, helping ensure the arena with international format. way. Esbjerg's first ice hockey club was Esbjerg," explains Peder before going on future of ice hockey in Esbjerg. founded in 1964. A step towards Germany to talk about foreign stars on the team: "We have a total of 2,568 seats and Just as the ice hockey team are an "We started playing outdoors before an standing room for 1,810. We built a "Ice hockey has always played an important part of Esbjerg, Esbjerg is also "We are known for preferring North inflatable 'bubble' roof was put over the new, transparent lounge with seating important role in Esbjerg, and has an important part of the team. Many of American players. That's because of the ice. In the mid-70s, we built the arena

32 – EnergyMetropolis EnergyMetropolis – 33 MAD ABOUT SPORT?

VESTKYSTLØBET One of many fun runs held in the area. Over 6,000 runners take part every year, including families, workmates and friends on FOOTBALL Superliga team Esbjerg fB routes varying from from a kid's run of has its home ground at the Blue Water 910 metres up to 9.2 km. Arena, with room for 17,000 spectators. The club has been in the top flight of Danish football since the 1950s, except for a few short periods.

HANDBALL There are lots of great opportunities to see MOUNTAIN BIKING top-level sport in Esbjerg. Team Esbjerg's ladies' team The landscape around plays in the country's top league. Blue Water Dokken is Esbjerg is perfect for the home ground, with capacity of around 2,500. mountain biking, and the active outdoor The local men's handball team, Ribe-Esbjerg HH lifestyle. Mountain (REHH) also plays in the top men's league. Half of their bike trails have been home games are played in Blue Water Dokken, and the created in Marbæk other half in the Centex IT Arena in Ribe. plantation, close to Esbjerg, and in many other city's in the area.

34 – EnergyMetropolis EnergyMetropolis – 35 n the classic red brick house on their instruments, and to have time I with white-painted window to play football (Ella) and with the youth frames – just a short bike symphony orchestra (Astrid). During ride north of Esbjerg – the family of the weekends, Astrid can also be found five are gathered in the lounge. A huge singing in the local church choir. black piano fills one end wall, and looks very well used. But on this particular Meanwhile, Arthur started at musical Wednesday afternoon, it's not piano preschool, where he has fallen in love music that fills the room, but the gentle with the drums, oboe, saxophone and snoring of Nemo, the 10-year-old family trumpet – to date. ABOUT THE ARTS dog, lying under the dining table. TALENT CLASS Music at school and home Urbanskolen in Esbjerg was Apart from Nemo and their cat Thanks to their musical talents, the first in the country to set Skævben, Christina (38) and Anders enrolling the sisters in the Urbanskolen up a talent class in 2016, in Mischorr-Boch (39) live in this delightful arts talent class was an obvious choice, consultation with Esbjerg house backing onto the woods with their a special class for schoolchildren in Kulturskole and the Danish children Astrid, 14, Ella, 12, and Arthur grades 7 to 9. The teachers incorporate Arts Foundation. The arts 6. Despite a packed calendar, they've the artistic skills of the pupils within talent classes are a municipal managed to all be in one place for a music, art, ballet or theatre with their initiative for 7th, 8th and 9th couple of hours before Astrid has to go normal lessons, plus the standard four garde pupils to give them the to play with the Esbjerg Youth Symphony hours of arts subjects each week. chance to study ballet, art, Orchestra. music or theatre as part of Astrid and Ella both attend music lessons their secondary education. Obsessed with wind instruments three afternoons a week after school. There are no requirements Astrid and Ella have been playing Apart from solo tuition, they have theory, for their academic level, but music for almost as long as they can listening and group playing sessions, a high degree of motivation is remember. Their mother took them to a because they are enrolled on the special expected. musical playgroup at Esbjerg Kultur- arts talent course. They also have to skole when they were only a couple of plot in time for concerts and rehearsals. ABOUT ESBJERG years old. Astrid discovered a love of However, neither of them feel as if they wind instruments at the tender age of 8 don't get to see enough of their friends. KULTURSKOLE during a school concert. Esbjerg Kulturskole teaches A "Most of our friends also attend Kultur- music, art, theatre and ballet "Someone was playing a slide trombone, skolen, so we are always together, for to children and adolescents, but that was far too big for me to start instance, when I go to orchestra" says and is very popular: Esbjerg on. So I had to find an alternative," she Astrid. has the highest number of recalls, with her mother adding: arts school pupils per head of Self-confidence and being together population. "One day, Astrid came home and said: Even though the girls clearly have music 'I've got it! I want to play the oboe!' We in their veins, their parents think there's didn't know what that was and had to something else that makes Kulturskolen look it up on YouTube," smiles Christina. so good. LIFE WITH "She started to practice with a plastic "You meet all types there, and it's a "I want to go to Orkesterefterskolen, straw, which sounds a bit weird. So we great start to life for the kids, not having a sort of musical finishing school, MUSIC had to lock the dog out in the garden, to be 'mainstream' to be considered followed by Esbjerg Gymnasium, and and were getting a bit worried about OK. Music also gives them lots of then I think I'd like to go to the Academy damaging Arthur's hearing, even though self-confidence. And it's great to see for a musical foundation course that he wasn't even born at the time." them so absorbed in something at a allows you to really get into music. time when everything goes so fast," It's a springboard for getting into the Music is a big part of life for the Mischorr-Boch family. Not long afterwards, little sister Ella believes Anders. Academy itself. And the ultimate would took up the flute. Since then, both girls be if I could play the oboe in a real Especially for the two girls, Astrid and Ella, who are in a special have played and sung at a number of Danish National Academy of Music or symphony orchestra and travel abroad arts talent class and therefore play and sing at school concerts together and individually. They schoolteacher? and play," enthuses Astrid. have both sung with the Danish National When you ask these young musicians and in their own time. Academy of Music's choir school and about their future, the eldest is the girls' choir, but stopped to concentrate quickest to respond:

36 – Energy Metropolis EnergyEnergyMetropolis Metropolis – 37 38 –EnergyMetropolis ACADEMY STUDENT WITH A METEORIC CAREER CAREER the stage nameofELBAalongside her studies. trade, shehasalready achieved success under Danish NationalAcademy ofMusic.Asingerby Esbjerg in2017to pursue herdream atthe 23-year-old Ellen Østervig Bathummoved to

particular. Ioften take theferry to Fanø I did.love thescenery around here in pursue it,nomatter whatandI'mglad believed thatmusic ismyfocus. Ihadto I wasnotafraid to move. I've always I'd never even beenhere before. But 2017 withoutknowing asoul. I endeduphere, moving to Esbjerg in Copenhagen, AarhusandEsbjerg. And year Iappliedto theAcademy in music scene over there. Thefollowing moving to Copenhagento explore the "I wasatHolstebro for two years, before National Academy ofMusic. course thatisaprecursor to theDanish foundation course) inHolstebro –a Thisted, Ellen started on MGK (a musical After uppersecondary schoolin Music infocus music into aprofessional career." gen. Irealised there thatIcould make experience attheAcademy inCopenha "I wasoffered thechance ofpractical when only in8thgrade: first steps towards amusical career started singinglessons." Shetook the piano lessons. WhenIwastwelve, Ialso take musiclessons atschool,Istarted to sing.WhenIwassixandbeganto an instrument, butI've always loved "No oneinmyfamily singsorplays began to interest Ellen. Nevertheless, musicwaswhatquickly the family hadnomusical traditions. manager, hermotheranurse, and younger brothers. Hefather wasabank Thisted withherparents andtwo The charismaticEllen grew upin Embracing theprocess – spendsalot ofhertimehere. Ellen –orELBAto useherstage name where Energy Metropolis meetsher. the DanishNationalAcademy ofMusic wooden furniture intheclassroom of black pianos,darkboard andclassic make acolourful splashagainst the

23 and darkgreen suedejacket Bathum's purple-dyed hair -year-old Ellen Østervig

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concludes. have to always bearthat inmind,"she it's notalways enjoyable every day. You into your career. Whenitbecomes work, burning passion thatyou wantto make it interested inmusic,andhaving sucha that there isabigdifference inbeing necessary. Butyou have to remember in somethingelselater ifitbecomes it. You can always take aqualification "If it'ssomethingyou really want,gofor advice for otheryoung hopefuls: and games.Whichbringsusto herbest way to fulfilment,herlife isnotallfun Ellen's childhooddream iswell onthe in November 2018.Buteven though She released herfirst studio single either writingsongsorplayingconcerts. Ellen spendsalot ofherweekends Not allfunandgames are spent." lessons. That'sthewaymost weekdays write for anhourorso,before goingto practice for abouttwo hours. ThenImay music. WhenIgetupinthemornings, But Istill spendalot ofmytimeon a week, meaningquite aliberal regime. "We getaround twelve hours oftuition says Ellen. bring othermusical projects to fruition," dreams aspractising musicians,orto and timewe needto realise ourown tent tuitionandare given allthemeans for you here. We receive highly compe because they really have timeandspace "Studying inEsbjerg issimply fantastic, employing around 100tutors. its premises inOdenseandEsbjerg, Danish NationalAcademy ofMusic,with be amongst the260students atthe a coincidence, Ellen isdelighted to Even thoughcoming to Esbjerg was her dreams Space andthemeansto realise songs." think aboutanythingatallotherthanmy It's myescape, where Idon'thave to just to gofor awalkthere, for instance.

EnergyMetropolis –39

- "I work twice as hen I come in through the rather than South Africa." Ea was still I knew immediately when I saw W door and see the dark on maternity leave when the family Skolegade 43 that this was it. Although many hours a wooden furniture, towering moved. it looked a whole lot different than it week, but then cacti and raw, brick walls, I feel as if I'm does now. in a coffee bar in London or Berlin. The From dream to reality this is a happy 'Hello, make yourself at home' After maternity leave, Ea found a job The walls were painted purple, the floor thousand times from the blonde-haired woman behind in Esbjerg, but never felt fully satisfied was blue and there was no kitchen or the bar with its mint green tiles brings with it. A couple of years later, she toilets, just one big room. So we started more enjoyable." me back to Denmark. In fact, Skolegade was on maternity leave again with her right from scratch with fire insulation and 43 in Esbjerg, where Rankin Park daughter Mila, and began to think about an extraction system etc." says Ea as she opened its doors in 2017. opening her own café, an idea that had shows me around the courtyard at the been quietly growing over the last 10 back, where there is a sandpit for kids in Today's menu is written on a blackboard years. addition to the wooden tables and chairs. by the bar, which also features colourful Moroccan bowls in a glass display "We love going out to eat, and have al- Children and prams are welcome in case containing four different salads, a ways said that 'my café will be like this or Rankin Park, which also has a kiddies' tart and a small selection of cakes. To that'. During a holiday in Greece in 2016, corner with painting books and DVDs. In the left of the bar is a sofa group with we took a notebook along to write down fact, it was her son Mason who provided unmatched, green velour sofas. Behind all the pros and cons of realising my café the inspiration for the menu in many ways. that is an old wall clock made of teak. dream once and for all. But the more we talked about it, the stronger our concept "Mason suffers badly from allergies, "A guest gave us that. He found it in his became, and we decided to contact an making it hard for us to eat out loft," says 35-year-old Ea, the blonde estate agent when we got home. sometimes. That's why it was important behind the bar. She's the brains behind and owner of Rankin Park.

The story behind each item of furniture continues as she shows me around: The tables are from the city's old badminton hall. The partition walls were built using re-cycled bricks and windows by a local bricklayer. The crystal chandelier in the entrance was found in a barn. The milk jugs are from a local ceramics artist. There is nothing in the room that has been randomly selected.

"It was important to me to find all the things I wanted and suppliers as local as possible," explains Ea.

SUSTAINABILITY To and from London Ea was born in Esbjerg, but moved to London after her upper secondary education, where she met her South African husband. Ea left her job as Sales ON THE MENU Manager in the technology industry and they moved to Esbjerg in 2014. Inspired by 13 years spent in London, Ea Gram-Rankin has created Rankin Park, an urban oasis furnished exclusively "After our son arrived in 2013, with second-hand furniture and with organic food and everything seemed to be about visiting family and travelling between London, minimum waste on the menu. Esbjerg and Cape Town – which we found impossible to fit in with our working lives. So we agreed to move. We thought about the values we wanted to give our children, and chose Esbjerg 40 – Energy Metropolis Energy Metropolis – 41 for me to be able to serve tasty food for here in Esbjerg, and our small selection allergy-sufferers or who needed to stick of wines is from South African vineyards "Our organic to a certain diet. We focus heavily on we have personally visited. If you don't coffee is bought nutrition and quality, rather than quan- want a bottle, most can be ordered by tity, buying as many organic ingredients the glass, and you are welcome to taste from someone who as possible from local suppliers, and before ordering." Ea believes that her roasts the beans focusing on minimising food waste. primary mission is to give her customers THE ART the best possible service, even though right here in Esb- More than a salad bar the atmosphere is right down to earth. Even though vegetables take centre jerg, and our small place on the menu, Rankin Park is "They have to feel at least as com- selection of wines HISTORIAN'S much more than a salad bar: Ea and fortable here as they do at home, and the staff also serve brunch, coffee, wine eat better. It's also important to me to is from South and cocktails, all under the banner of create an atmosphere that allows inter- African vineyards 'quality rather than quantity' action and communication between our DREAM JOB guests. That's not something we really we have personally "Our organic coffee is bought from encourage in Denmark and something I someone who roasts the beans right miss about London," she explains. visited. Every year, Esbjerg Municipality bids 5,000 new residents welcome from Denmark and the rest of the world. Art historian and museum curator Josephine Nielsen-Bergqvist moved to Ribe from Copenhagen in 2015, making her one of them.

t was an exhibition at Den Ribe. For example, I've always played I Hirschsprungske Samling the saxophone, and started off by in Copenhagen in 2009 that contacting the town's big band, and now opened Josephine's eyes to Ribe. The find myself occupied with hobbies and exhibition consisted of works on loan events at least three weekday evenings from the art museum in Denmark's a week. oldest town. Apart from playing in Big Band Ribe, "It was a collection I wanted to work I started archery at the Viking Centre, with. And because there was nothing and sit on the Resident's Association's tying me to Copenhagen, I decided to governing committee. At the weekends, send in a speculative application to the I often attend one of the performing museum," says 31-year-old Josephine, arts events in the town." The diversity of who grew up in and graduated what's on offer here has surprised this from Copenhagens University in 2014. ex-Copenhagener:

Even though she knew nothing of either In many ways, Ribe is a strange place, the town or the area, Josephine did because even though it is small and is not hesitate to leave her apartment in in west Jutland, it's a lot more than a Amager, Copenhagen, to move to Ribe provincial town. It's full of passionate when the museum offered her a job in individuals who make things happen. the spring of 2015. There is a lot more here to get involved with if you're interested," she con- Plenty of time for TV series? cludes. "I expected that I would have plenty of time to watch TV series and write blogs in my spare time when I moved to west Jutland. But it didn't take long before I was joining clubs and associations in

42 – Energy Metropolis EnergyMetropolis – 43 ESBJERG MEANS BUSINESS KNOWLEDGE – LIFE – CAREER

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