July 3 - 16, 2009

Issue No. 19

FREE COPY

FEATURE Kosovo’s Young Turn to Fortunetellers for Counselling

page 7

POLITICS Macedonia and Kosovo Seize Chance to Mend Fences

Kosovo’s Energy Policy: page 4

Between a Rock and a Hard Place BUSINESS Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit Kosovo Using the ‘Palestinian Kosovo’s government is expected to announce arguably its most important economic and environmental decision for the Route’ to Secure Dialling Code future of the country in the coming days. Prishtina Insight brings you the story of how plans for one of the world’s largest lignite coal power plants have become caught in a struggle between the World Bank and the United States, and different factions of Kosovo’s government, and analyses the difficult choices in determining how to balance energy security, economic development, and environmental protection. rime Minister Hashim Thaci natural reserve – lignite – and the ing Kosovo’s two lignite fired power consulting firms, hired by USAID at a and Finance Minister Ahmet future of its power production. An plants, Kosova A and Kosova B, ten cost of 20 million dollars to advise PShala jetted off to Washington announcement is expected next kilometres from Prishtina, are wit- Kosovo’s Ministry of Energy and this week to sign up to membership week, possibly bringing an end to 4 nesses to the 200 tonnes of dust Ministry of Economy on its econom- of the World Bank and the years of debate. released into the air each day. ic development. page 5 International Monetary Fund. Since its liberation in 1999, Kosovo The emissions of sulphur dioxide, The World Bank also began work- Kosovo’s accession to these institu- has been unable to produce enough nitrogen oxide and carbon dioxide far ing on the development of this giant INSIDE PRISHTINA tions has been widely praised as a electricity to meet its own demand. exceed the standard EU limits. project, sending in experts and advi- key milestone in the country’s eco- Despite 800 million euro in interna- In 2006, Kosovo’s Ministry of sors at a cost of 10 million dollars. Pandora’s Panorama nomic progress, but perhaps the most tional aid to the energy sector, KEK, Energy unveiled plans to solve With a ballpark investment of 3.5 important event to have occurred on the public Kosovo Energy Kosovo’s energy crisis and economic billion euro, such a deal would be the this auspicious visit happened Corporation, has been crippled by woes in one fell swoop with a lignite- biggest private investment project behind closed doors. aging power plants in a state of disre- fired 2,100MW plant. Kosovo has ever seen. A final series of debates took place pair and deplorable collection rates – It was no surprise that Kosovo was It was hailed as the deal that would transform Kosovo from a poor, ener- between the leading ministers, the less than half of the energy is paid for. exploring its energy and economic gy deficient country into an export US and World Bank, in a last round of Meanwhile, the Kosovo govern- potential with lignite. Kosovo sits on power for the Balkans. a tug-of-war which has split the inter- ment regularly must dig out 150 to 200 the fifth largest lignite reserve in the The winner of the huge tender was national community and the Kosovo million euro each year from its budg- world, an estimated 14 billion tonnes. set to be announced by the end of government. et to keep KEK on its feet and Kosovo This project, named Kosova C, was 2007, and the first plant to be complet- Prishtina Insight understands that with its lights on. developed in close consultation with ed by 2012. page 11 a decision has now been made on the The 700,000 citizens who live in the Bearing Point, one of the world’s future of Kosovo’s most important densely populated region surround- largest management and technology continues on page 2 ARTE Exclusive City Stories to Remember, Stories to Forget UNMIK Reminds EULEX it Still Controls Prishtina Gifts €15 million of Land to Former Prishtina Headquarters US for New Embassy UNMIK has reminded EULEX that Prishtina’s Municipal Assembly is to under resolution 1244 it remains in con- hand five hectares of prime real estate to trol of its former headquarters in central the US government for a new embassy, Prishtina, now the home of EULEX according to an agreement signed police. between the two parties on Wednesday. Senior officials at the UN mission Elected members representing wrote to EULEX... Prishtina decided to... page 3 page 6 page 10

is supported by: 2 • july 3 - 16, 2009 news Kosovo’s Energy Policy: Between a Rock and a Hard Place from page 1 [2,100MW] power plant and the Sibovc mine.” However, a number of factors Former Minister of Energy, Ethem stopped the project in its tracks. Ceku, previously the Minister of First, citizens and environmental- Environment, says that environmental ists, led by the Kosovo think-tank, impact studies have been made, which Forum 2015, began a campaign clearly demonstrate Kosovo has suffi- against the project, questioning the cient water to cool a 2,100MW plant, environmental and business case for and that all EU environmental stan- Kosova C. dards could be met. The World Bank soon started to According to the research conduct- see problems too, creating a rift ed so far on alternative energy poten- among the international players tial in Kosovo, no single, clear abun- involved. dant source of renewable energy Finally, the deal breaker came in exists. November 2007, when PDK won the Kosovo has lignite, and even those general parliamentary elections and calling for more use of renewable formed a new government, vowing to energy agree a new thermoelectric re-evaluate the entire Kosova C proj- power plant must be built in the short ect. term. A year and a half later, Prime The EU Commission has been crit- Minister Hashim Thaci appears to icised by some for not taking a lead- have made a decision on the key ele- ing role in the discussion, given the Elements of the Tender US backed Plan World Bank Plan ments of the Kosovo Re, or New importance of the decision on Capacity of plant 2100MW 1000MW Kosovo, power plant offer,as it is now Kosovo’s European future. Kosovo “A” and “B” Included Kept Separate named. The EU Commission Liaison Sibovc Mine Included Included The USAID backed advisors and Office in Kosovo said it does not take Years of Lease 40 No position the US embassy have been actively a position on the size of any new State Fees Based on electricity Based on lignite lobbying for a plan similar to the power plants planned in candidate Photo byPhoto FoNet original proposal. In April 2008, member states or potential candi- USAID held a presentation during Kosovo’s power plant dates. which they reaffirmed their commit- billion tonnes of lignite, approxi- Energy, Ethem Ceku, the champion 20 per cent of energy supplied by It added: “The commission howev- ment to the Kosova C option. mately enough to feed a 2,100MW of the Kosova C project, blames the alternative, renewable energy. er does insist that Kosovo – when The World Bank has been arguing plant for 40 years, which is also how current government for damaging Proponents of the Kosova C model, planning and building the new power for a smaller plant to be built initial- long the Americans propose the deal Kosovo’s economic development. with a 2,100MW capacity, argue that plant – adheres to the relevant EU ly, with the possibility of reaching should be signed for. “When I sent out the expression of the real polluters are Kosova A and, legislation in the area of environ- 2,100MW with new plants in the The Americans and the World interest for Kosova C, we were in the to a lesser extent, Kosova B. ment, social affairs and public pro- future, and a more decentralised con- Bank also differ on how Kosovo’s fees driver’s seat,” reflects Ceku. The new power plant, which they curement. cept of investment and ownership would be negotiated. While the World Opinions also diverge on the con- assure will include the latest tech- “As to the existing power plants, for Kosovo’s energy sector. Bank proposes the deal is made based solidated control and operation, pro- nologies in filtration of dust and the Commission welcomes the deci- Minister of Energy Justina on the price the operator would pay moted by the USAID advisors, and gases, will allow these old plants to sion of the government to decommis- Shiroka Pula supports the World the state per tonne of lignite mined, the more decentralised vision of the close down, and will improve the sion Kosova A by 2017, this being an Bank plan while Deputy Finance the Americans argue that such an World Bank, which would mean environment in Kosovo. obligation stemming both from the Minister Bedri Hamza supports the arrangement would lead to higher breaking up Kosovo’s energy sector One gas, however, which has not Large Combustion Plants directive US proposal. energy costs for consumers, and that into smaller competitors. been successfully filtered or trapped and the Energy Community Treaty.” the deal should be based on the fees The US advisors oppose this model, in a practical large scale situation But in previous comments at a con- THE COMPETING PLANS paid to the state per kilowatt of ener- arguing that Kosovo is too small a yet, is carbon dioxide, one the leading ference in 2007, the European Commission noted “that the project One of the main disagreements gy produced. market to break up. greenhouse gases. will be a major political issue, as it between the American and World The US option is backed by the This coming December, nations of implies privatisation of Kosovo’s Bank bank sides is on what size plant ECONOMIC BENEFITS Ministry of Finance. Deputy the world will meet at the Copenhagen only natural resource”. this new deal should involve. Minister Bedri Hamza. He told Conference for Climate Change to Forum 2015 asserts that the pres- Prishtina Insight that the ‘big bang’ agree on regulations on greenhouse The Americans strongly assert BEHIND THE SCENES that a 2,100MW plant must be ten- ent offers by Kosovo’s international approach would take Kosova A and B gas emissions and taxes placed on the dered for and built, a 1,000MW plant advisors disproportionately serve the off the government’s hands, and gases emitted. Whether or not Kosovo BATTLE within the next 5 years and the other interests of the private operator over allow it to start making profits from sits at that table, it will certainly be 1,100MW plant built in 10 years. This, Kosovo’s interests. the sale of energy quickly, helping to obligated to adopt the protocol that Trapped between conflicting sets of they argue, will replace the aging Luan Shllaku of Forum 2015 said: balance the country’s current trade emerges from Copenhagen if it advice, both from key allies to Kosovo, existing plants, Kosova A and Kosova “The way the deal looks under the deficit. aspires to join the EU. the government has, to a large extent, B, which have a combined capacity of Kosova C model, over a 40 year period Another highly debated environ- backed out of the debate, waiting for 1,500MW, but only produce between of operation, Kosovo stands to earn ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT mental factor in assessing the size its two partners to agree, according to 645 to 710 MW, and create the capaci- about 5 billion euros in fees and and capacity of a new thermoelectric Shpend Ahmeti. He said: “Why isn’t ty to export excess energy, thereby taxes, while the private investor, The environmental impact of the power plant is the supply of available this issue being debated in the Kosovo stimulating Kosovo’s economy. depending on the long-term market eventual lignite fired power plant is water needed for cooling the plant. Parliament? Why is it being decided The World Bank, concerned about trends, stands to make 80 billion or also the subject of fierce debate. Robert Muharremi, formerly of in Washington?” the initial need for such a large plant, more.” Lignite is known to be the lowest the Center for Energy and Natural The two key ministries involved in and Kosovo’s ability to meet EU stan- Shllaku argues that Kosovo needs grade of coal, commonly referred to Resource Development and now a lec- the deal – Energy and Finance – are dards for CO2 emissions, proposes to become an investment partner to as “brown coal”, and the most pollut- turer at the American University in at loggerheads on the issue. Justina only negotiating a deal for 1000MW in share in the long-term profits, using ing form to burn. Kosovo, said: “The World Bank has Shiroka Pula, Kosovo’s Minister of the present offer and allowing for the Sibovc mine as capital. Members of the Forum 2015 think- concluded that we’re going to face Energy, has publicly aligned her sup- more time to evaluate the need and But this idea is dismissed by some tank released a book and accompany- problems supplying water to the port to the World Bank plan. But impact of another large plant in the internationals involved in the deal ing documentary film in 2007, enti- deputy Finance Minister Bedri future. who argue that the energy sector is a tled A Modern Tale, which laid out a THE BIDDERS Hamza told Prishtina Insight: “Every Another area of contention is the complex business that is best left to scenario of long-term environmental option has positive and negative inclusion of the existing power experts and that such a deal would be degradation and health issues result- efore the Kosova C project sides but I support the American plants, Kosova A and Kosova B, into less attractive. ing from a 2,100MW coal plant built Bwas hauled back, the selec- option.” the existing offer. The American One thing that is clear, the global right next to Kosovo’s capital city. tion process had already been For the tender to be issued both the position is that packing these two economic situation has changed This concern was reiterated by the narrowed down to four short-list- Prime Minister and Minister Pula dinosaur plants into the existing deal drastically since the Kosova C project representative of World Bank in ed bidders: must sign. It is not clear whether Pula is the best way to get them off the was shelved. Economic expert and Kosovo, Ranjit Nayak, who in early 1) Czech firm CEZ and AES of will sign off the American proposal. Kosovo budget. director of Kosovo’s Institute for 2008 commented that the Kosova C the United States. Thaci will not want to upset the The World Bank, however, insists Advanced Studies, GAP, Shpend plan raised “numerous environmen- 2) Italian group ENEL and Americans, Kosovo’s superpower ally, that the inclusion of these plants into Ahmeti worries that the consortiums tal issues which have to be addressed, Sencap, a consortium of or the World Bank, which has just the deal will only complicate the who were interested in Kosova C will having in mind the importance of the Greece’s Public Power Corp welcomed Kosovo into the interna- negotiations and ultimately threat- now have a much harder time raising environment in economic and social and U.S ContourGlobal. tional organisation. ens to sink the whole deal. . money for such a large project. development.” 3) Germany’s RWE It is unclear which way the Prime Any expression of interest will “These guys don’t have billions of Nayak added: “Kosovo should com- 4) German utility EnBW, part- Minister has gone, but Shllaku from likely include a lease for the operator euros on hand. They’ll need to go to ply with European environmental owned by France’s EDF, and the Forum 2015 said: “We may be wit- on the unopened Sibovc lignite banks to gather the investment, standards.” U.S.-based WGI. ness to a political miracle – that the reserve as well, which is supported banks that are no longer able to give To comply with EU standards, Informal talks indicate bidders Prime Minister will end up 100% by both the Americans and the World out such big loans,” he said. countries must reduce their current are still potentially interested to closer to the approach of the opposi- Bank. Opposition member of the Kosovo use of fossil fuel energy by 20 per cent bid for the Kosova Re project. tion than that of his own energy The reserve holds an estimated 1 Assembly and former Minister of by the year 2020, and replace it with minister.” news • july 3 - 16, 2009 3

HRW Calls on Kosovo to Editor’s word Provide Roma Housing uman Rights Watch has were attacked by Albanians in called on local authorities June 1999, and some 8,000 Roma Dhuratë Hand international donors to were forced to leave, according to take action against the polluted HRW. Soon after, the UN placed housing camps in which the Roma them in camps located next to the are struggling to survive in north- abandoned Trepce lead mine, a By Vjosa Musliu ern Kosovo. very polluted and hazardous zone. “The Kosovo authorities, togeth- Intended to be a temporary solu- er with international donors, must tion, 670 Roma still live in the work on closing settlements for camp. he US Embassy has recently displaced Roma that are polluted UN carried out tests in 2004 and byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit been endowed with some 5 with lead, and provide them with 2007 for lead poisoning and initiat- Kosovo Police patrolling Mother Teresa Square in Prishtina Thectares of land in one of the the relevant medical treatment,” a ed Chelation therapy, designed to best neighborhoods of Prishtina. report by the NGO states. remove lead from blood, focusing The poorest country in Europe is The report, entitled “Kosovo: mostly on Roma children. But More than 300 Serb lavishing the richest and the most Poisoned by Lead: A Health and according to HRW,the UN “decided powerful in the world with a free Human Rights Crisis in to suspend medical treatment, site for their new embassy.Who said Mitrovica’s Roma Camps”, reviews while testing was stopped after Officers Return to Police that a mouse won’t ever be able to ome 307 Serb police officers Kosovo’s Police, Riza Shillova, 113 the challenges of the Roma and wrongly assuming that the Roma compete with a dinosaur? We are have returned to duty with out of 114 Serb policemen returned how the UN and other internation- would soon be moved out of the poor, but we are proud! Logically, al organisations have been unable camps and that it was no longer Sthe Kosovo Police ahead of in Prishtina, while 125 out of 129 this comes as a gift, or Dhuratë, for the June 30 deadline. returned in Gjilan. to provide the adequate accommo- necessary”. Subsequent testing the role the US has played in shap- Kosovo’s Deputy Interior The European rule-of-law mis- dation and medical treatment. sought by camp residents, per- ing Kosovo’s future. Minister, Fisnik Rexhepi, said at a sion in Kosovo, EULEX, welcomed “Roma have been forced to stay formed by the hospital in northern And with the US agreeing this news conference that only those the return of Serb policemen. in these poisoned camps for a Mitrovica, showed that certain week to pay $150 million of Kosovo’s who had met the deadline by sub- Serb officers left the police in whole decade,” the report says, children continued to have “a dan- World Bank debt, maybe Kosovo is mitting appropriate applications protest after Kosovo unilaterally asking if the “UN and Kosovo offi- gerously high level of lead in their getting a good deal. would be able to return to work on declared independence in cials would tolerate something like blood”. But the price of that piece of land July 1. February 2008. They had decided this if their own families were The Kosovo government has in Dragodan represents nothing to a The deadline expired on June 30 to prolong their protest unless they forced to live in such a place”. recently pledged to re-house the rich country such as the US. That at 4pm for the 325 suspended Serb were put under the command of Roma in the settlement of Roma community who live in the amount of money,around 15 million police officers. UNMIK and not the Kosovo Police. Mitrovica in northern Kosovo camps. euro, could have been enormously “Only 18 of them decided not to Kosovo Police spokesman Arber beneficial to a struggling economy come back,” said Arber Beka, Beka said that no special conces- like Kosovo. I thought it was enough Kosovo’s Police spokesperson. sions would be made for the Serb of a gift that we named our street The highest rate of returns was officers, and that only a single Bill Clinton Boulevard, and that we seen in Prishtina and Gjilan. chain of command would be imple- were planning statues of Madeleine According to deputy head of mented for the entire force. Albright, George Bush, Richard Holbrooke, Britney Spears… and many more. Sarah Palin: “Kosovo is I started to think that Americans need a big field to play American football, or a decent spot for barbe- Absolutely Beautiful” cues and fireworks for July 4. ormer US vice presidential Thursday, June 25, and left for Anyhow, while some friends were candidate Sarah Palin Germany to meet injured soldiers angry at the size of the gift, I’m not. Fpraised Kosovo’s beauty in a on Saturday, June 27. Those who saw the NATO tanks Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit trip to the country last weekend to During her visit, she attended a entering on June 12, 1999, know Roma in a war-torn building in northern Mitrovica thank American KFOR troops. school where US troops were help- what I’m talking about, and I know Alaska Governor Palin, speaking ing students learn English and they understand me. to US soldiers, said: “Here in walked the streets with KFOR And I love the idea that my coun- Exclusive: UNMIK Reminds Kosovo too it is absolutely beauti- troops. try has the ability to reward those ful. Last night I got to do some jog- She said that “folks chatted about who were staunch supporters in EULEX it Still Controls Former ging on those hills. The hills really their interest in the US and they bringing independence, although kicked my butt but it was really knew a lot about Alaska”. maybe not to this extent. Prishtina Headquarters great to be out there, with those “I am happy to pass on the mes- This week, it also emerged, that NMIK has reminded EULEX said: “There was indeed an exchange of beautiful rolling hills and gorgeous sage of sincere thanks from all UNMIK has reminded EULEX that that under resolution 1244 it letters in which UNMIK requested and sunset.” Alaskans,” Governor Palin added. under Resolution 1244, UNMIK is Uremains in control of its former received clarification of EULEX's Palin followed in the footsteps of “We are so proud of their service.” still in charge of the its former headquarters in central Prishtina, now intentions regarding the former Joe Biden, her victorious rival for “As commander-in-chief, headquaters, now the EU mission’s the home of EULEX police. UNMIK main headquarters. America’s second most important Governor Palin is the one we look to police headquarters. And, by impli- Senior officials at the UN mission “Under a memorandum of under- job, in visiting US soldiers at the for leadership and inspiration cation, UNMIK controls all publicly wrote to EULEX following rumours standing between EULEX and UNMIK, Camp Bondsteel military base, near while serving and defending the owned property. that the EU rule-of-law mission was EULEX has the right to use the premis- Ferizaj/Urosevac, Kosovo. Biden sovereign boundaries of Alaska,” I’m wondering whether planning to hand UNMIK’s former es and is responsible for its day-to-day visited Kosovo in May. said Lieutenant General Craig E. Prishtina’s municipality has asked headquarters to the Ministry of Justice management and maintenance. She told an audience at the base: Campbell, Adjutant General of the for UNMIK’s permission to make and other organisation. However, UNMIK has oversight “I thank you for helping to secure Alaska National Guard. this gift to the US embassy.Probably EULEX has used the buildings as its authority for the property. it[Kosovo], for helping to clean it up, not! in more ways than one, and I am police headquarters since last October Under the UN Security Council reso- UNMIK made its point after very glad to get to experience that after UNMIK moved to new offices in lution 1244, UNMIK is the manager of rumours that EULEX was planning part of your mission over here, to Fushe Kosove. all public property which has not been to give the former headquarters to see how you are taking good care of Under the terms of the transfer of privatised. Kosovo’s Ministry of Justice and this countryside, because it is beau- the city centre complex, EULEX must It is a matter of heated debate other organisations. UNMIK point- tiful.” hand the compound back to UNMIK if whether the resolution is still in force ed out that it was not in EULEX’s Palin met 140 Alaska Army it decides to move out. since Kosovo’s declaration of inde- power to do so under 1244, and the National Guard aviators, who have Christophe Lamfalussy, senior pendence and the introduction of its contract signed between the two been deployed for 12 months on the spokesperson for EULEX, told constitution. international authorities. peacekeeping mission in Kosovo. Prishtina Insight: “I can confirm that Following pressure from Russia, So, Prishtina’s municipality can She told the troops: “I am very there has recently been an exchange of Serbia’s ally on the Security Council, give the US Embassy public-owned impressed here in Kosovo to see letters between UNMIK and EULEX the six point plan agreed by the UN in land for free, UNMIK can lend pub- how hard you are all working, to see about the building which is now the November 2008, which allowed EULEX lic buildings to EULEX because this is truly a family. EULEX police HQ in the centre in to deploy across Kosovo, stated that under 1244 it controls all public “We like to think of Alaska, that Prishtina. 1244 remained in force, with UNMIK as buildings and land, and EULEX can it is God’s country, it is his creation “UNMIK wanted to know if it was the highest authority. refuse to give a ministry of Kosovo’s and he dumped extra beauty there. true that we intended to hand this But Kosovo’s government argues government public-owned build- But here, half way across the world, building to other organisations, includ- that 1244 is no longer applicable since ings. ing the Kosovo Ministry of Justice. We the adoption of the Ahtisaari package. it really makes me realise how gor- Photo byPhoto Army US I am happy to offer a sizable gift to geous, and beautiful and pristine just have replied that it is not our inten- The Serbian Ministry of Defense Governor Sarah Palin is escorted by anyone who can explain to me who the rest of the world is too.” tion.” claims to be the owner of the former Alaska Army National Guard Soldiers as runs this country. UNMIK spokesman Russell Geekie UNMIK headquarters in Prishtina. Palin arrived in Kosovo on she walks through the city of Ferizaj 4 • july 3 - 16, 2009 politic Macedonia and Kosovo Seize Chance to Mend Fences Last month Sejdiu canceled a planned visit to Macedonia after By Sinisa-Jakov Skopje abruptly announced it was Marusic in Skopje downgrading the meeting’s status from “official” to merely “working”. Macedonia said Sejdiu could not be greeted with the highest state hon- acedonia and Kosovo appear ours, including a ceremonial guard keen to patch up a diplomat- and a red carpet, because Macedonia Mic spat that neither can and Kosovo had not yet exchanged afford to prolong. ambassadors. Macedonia’s President, Georgi Macedonia recognised Kosovo as Ivanov, has accepted an invitation an independent state last year but has from the President of Kosovo, Fatmir since struggled to balance the need Sejdiu, to visit Prishtina, raising for good relations with Serbia, which hopes that the recent tension between bitterly opposes Kosovo’s independ- Photo byPhoto Jakov Sinisa Masuric the two neighbouring countries may ence, and the need to maintain good Macedonia’s President Georgi Ivanov and Kosovo’s President Fatmir Sejdiu now ease. relations with the world’s youngest The two presidents met near the country. “At a time when Kosovo is trying to a highway linking Skopje and The only other open issue between Albanian town Vlora late Tuesday “There are no real obstacles stop- promote its new statehood and show it Prishtina. Macedonia and Kosovo remains their last week, ahead of an informal meet- ping the sending of an ambassador to is an equal partner to other states, One of the excuses Skopje uses partially unmarked border. ing of regional heads of state. Prishtina as soon as possible,” Zhidas Macedonia’s move was seen as humil- when explaining its hesitation in send- Both sides formed joint teams and Montenegro’s Filip Vujanovic and Daskalovski, head of the Skopje- iating.” ing diplomats to Prishtina, is the need started placing border markers last Albania’s Bamir Topi, were also pres- based think tank, the Centre for Ylli Hoxha, director of the Kosovo for caution with regard to the impact year. But the delineation of the fron- ent. Research and Policy Making, told think tank, the Foreign Policy on relations with Serbia. tier has become bogged down in two Prishtina Insight. Council, described Sejdiu’s reaction as small areas surrounding the ethnic “Skopje should look after its Neither Skopje nor Prishtina can “emotional”. It had not been easy to “At a time when Kosovo is Albanian villages of Debalde and own interests and strengthen afford to let mistrust damage the cancel a visit to a country seen as one Tanusevci, where villagers complain close ties linking their economies, of Kosovo’s most important partners. trying to promote its new that the proposed line crosses their ties with Prishtina,” and establishing fully operational “This was a decision that went statehood and show it is an fields and will obstruct their freedom diplomatic ties would ease the current against Kosovo’s interests and strate- of movement. tension, he argues. gic goals for nurturing close ties with equal partner to other states, Experts say the row over the villages Said Zhidas Daskalovski, “Skopje should look after its own Skopje, but it had to be made for the Macedonia’s move was seen must not to be allowed to delay comple- head of the Skopje-based interests and strengthen ties with sake of [Kosovo’s national] dignity,”he as humiliating,” tion of the border marking process. Prishtina,” Daskalovski said. “Not to told Prishtina Insight. “This issue of few square kilometers… think tank, mention the fact that one quarter of Sejdiu’s cancellation garnered wide is easily solvable if both sides demon- “We share the view of the Macedonia’s population are ethnic approval from all political sides and said Ylli Hoxha, director of strate willingness,” Gjuner Ismail, President of Kosovo that the misun- Albanians, who have sentimental from the media in Kosovo, Hoxha the Kosovo think tank from the Macedonian think tank, the derstandings that have occurred links to their kinsmen in Kosovo.” added. Council for Global Cooperation, said recently have been overcome,” Ivanov Tensions erupted earlier this year The reaction of the Macedonian Last year, Serbia expelled the last week at a debate in Skopje. said. “He invited me to visit Prishtina just as most observers had expected Albanian community was equally Macedonian ambassador after Skopje He also argued that both states have and I have accepted.” Skopje to appoint an ambassador to worrying – brimming with discontent recognised Kosovo’s independence. aspirations to join NATO and EU and The statement is seen as a sign that Prishtina, sealing healthy political over Skopje’s behaviour. But the strong economic ties between so have an interest in closing this par- both Kosovo and Macedonia take seri- relations. The ethnic Albanian Democratic Macedonia and Serbia did not suffer, ticular issue that “is too small to pro- ously the need to mend fences follow- First, Sejdiu was not invited to Union for Integration, DUI, part of the despite fears. duce greater bilateral problems”. ing the diplomatic fiasco that soured Ivanov’s presidential inauguration governing coalition in Macedonia After a short freeze in relations, Some analysts believe the large bilateral relations last month. ceremony in mid-May, although other with the centre-right VMRO DPMNE, Belgrade hinted it was ready to receive Albanian population in Macedonia regional heads of state were on the helped to calm matters by insisting it a new ambassador,as a result of which should be used more effectively as a list. The media speculated that this would continue to press for a swift nor- Skopje forwarded his credentials to bridge between the two states. was done so as not to offend Serbia’s malisation and upgrading of relations Serbia this month. They fear if the stalemate in politi- President, Boris Tadic. with Kosovo. During the last visit to Skopje of cal relations continues, Albanian The row over the status of the bilat- Business leaders are keen for both Serbia’s Foreign Minister, Vuk political parties in Macedonia could www.prishtinainsight.com eral meeting followed a few weeks sides to put aside their misunder- Jeremic, in early May, both sides become more radical. after. This time Sejdiu was the one standings and focus on more practical agreed to disagree on Kosovo and fur- “We have a situation in which one Publisher: refusing to visit Skopje. Although both goals. ther improve otherwise warm politi- quarter of the Macedonian population BIRN parties insisted the cancellation of the Macedonia is among Kosovo’s top cal and economic ties. is at the very least emotionally sensi- Balkan Investigative Reporting Network visit would not mar relations, a bitter five trading partners, according to “Serbia has no reason to place fur- tive over the issue of Kosovo; not to aftertaste lingered. Prishtina’s official data. ther obstacles in the path of take their sentiments into considera- Mensa e Studenteve, first floor “I can’t tell whether it was inexperi- But the head of Macedonia’s Macedonia since it shares the goal of tion is just irresponsible,” Ismail said. 10000, Prishtina ence or poor assessment on the Chamber of Commerce, Branko Euro-Atlantic integration,” Macedonia must open up all forms Kosovo Macedonian side that Kosovo would Azeski, said during a visit to Prishtina Daskalovski commented. of formal and informal communica- Phone: +381 (0) 38 24 33 58 accept anything, even the downgrad- earlier this month that the business “Belgrade will continue to fight its tion with Kosovo for its own sake and Fax: +381 (0) 38 22 44 98 ing of the visit, but one should bear in community wanted to see a more diplomatic battle with Kosovo else- the sake of regional security,he added. [email protected] mind that symbolism is of the utmost proactive approach on the part of both where, at the UN and in the Ismail warns of a possible “domino importance to Kosovo,” Daskalovski governments, including infrastructur- International Court of Justice,” he effect” if Kosovo is partitioned Editor-in-Chief: noted. al investments in key projects such as continued. between Albanians and Serbs. Lawrence Marzouk [email protected] Managing Editor: Kosovo Prepares for Nationwide Census Vjosa Musliu osovo has set a date for its Governmental officials have [email protected] first nationwide census since pledged that registration will also be K1981. possible for Kosovo’s diaspora. Editorial Team: The government has decided that No census has been held in Kosovo Ana Petruseva, Arif Muharremi, the crucial survey should be held since 1982, when it was still part of Gordana Igric, Jeta Xharra, Marcus from March 30 to April 11, 2011, a the former Yugoslavia. Tanner and Shega A’Mula period during which EU countries Statistics on unemployment and per- are also to hold their census. sonal wealth are largely contested Marketing, Sales & Distribution: At the end of October 2008, Kosovo due to the lack of information on the [email protected] began registering people and record- number of people living in Kosovo. ing financial statistics in a pilot United Nations statistics suggest Design & Layout: “Rrjeti” scheme in five cities in preparation Kosovo has a population of about for a complete census. two million people. Printing: Interpress R. Company The nationwide survey of the pop- More than 90 per cent are ethnic Copyright © BIRN ulation and homes will be held dur- Albanian while Serbs constitute the byPhoto Insight Prishtina Gashi for Krenar ing the first quarter of 2011. largest ethnic minority. Prishtina during the Declaration of Independence in 2008 business • july 3 - 16, 2009 5 Kosovo Using the ‘Palestinian Route’ to Secure Dialling Code Unable to obtain an international telephone code due to its unresolved political status, Kosovo is to use its membership of the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund, IMF, to push for a geographic code, the route used by the Palestinian Territories. Photo byPhoto Albania BIRN A dirt road near the Kosovo-Albania border New Kosovo-Albania Border Point Opens

new border point has opened between Glloboqice in Kosovo and the town of byPhoto FoNet Kosovo’s PM Hashim Thaci and President Fatmir Sejdiu ABorje in Albania. The head of Kosovo Border Police, Bejar Selimi, Albania’s ambassador to Kosovo, Islam Lauka, Kosovo Signs IMF and World municipality workers and hundreds of people Bank Deal from both the municipalities of Sharr in Kosovo and Kukes in Albania attended the inauguration osovo is officially a member of the World ceremony. Bank and the International Monetary “This passageway, which divided people of the KFund, IMF, after signing an agreement same blood, culture and tradition for over 60 with the organisations on Monday. years, on both sides of the Albania-Kosovo border, Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit “This is a special sign of the support given to opens today, so as not to ever close again,” said Kosovo,” said Kosovo President Fatmir Sejdiu, Duliman Nela, mayor of Shishtaveci, Albania. PTK building in Prishtina who signed the agreement with Prime Minister The border point is for pedestrians only and is to transfer the former into a national code Hashim Thaci. expected to be used by rural communities on both of the country,” said Kukaj. Sejdiu said that even countries who have not sides of the border. But although Kosovo’s independence has recognised Kosovo’s unilateral declaration of Kosovo and Albanian border police officials met been recognised by 60 countries, it still independence of February 2008 have welcomed in Tirana on April 30 to decide on the opening of By Prishtina Insight does not feature on UN databases, unlike Kosovo’s membership in both organisations. several new border points between the two coun- the Palestinian Territories. This may pres- Thaci lauded the deals as a “historic moment”. tries. The Kosovo government approved the open- Kosovo filed its request for membership of the osovo is pinning its hope of securing ent another stumbling block for the young ing of the Glloboqice-Borje checkpoint later. world bodies in July 2008, during a donors’ con- a unique telephone code for the ter- country. The new border crossings are expected to ference in Brussels. ritory on the model used by increase trade between the two countries and help K Last month, the IMF agreed to Kosovo’s request Palestine, which is the only ‘country’ in the reduce illegal migration. “We have lobbied our allies who for membership with an absolute majority of 96 world to have been allocated a geographic, votes out of 138. rather than international, code. have recognised Kosovo’s inde- Kosovo’s Bureaucracy Hinders Senior figures in the Ministry for pendence to help us get other Transport, Post and Telecommunications countries to accept us in the Kosovo’s Economic Hurdle for EU Investment hope that Kosovo’s recent acceptance into the IMF and World Bank will give weight to International Telecommunications Membership ureaucracy surrounding the registration of the government, and the European Union, Union organisation,” businesses in Kosovo is hindering foreign lobbying on this issue. ot enough measures have been taken to Binvestment, according to the World Bank More than one year after the declaration improve the economic situation in Advisor for local governance, Mikra Krasniqi. of independence, and the entrance into Fatmir Limaj, Minister of Transport NKosovo, despite three years of criticism According to Krasniqi, the procedure for force of its constitution, Kosovo still uses from the EU, according to a leading NGO. obtaining business licences needs to be simplified Serbia’s +381 prefix. and Telecommunication Kosovo is far from fulfilling the economic crite- and made more affordable in order to increase for- Fatmir Limaj, Minister of Transport, ria which would lead it to European integration, eign investment. Post and Telecommunications, told local The International Telecommunications says the Institute for Advanced Studies, known as At an Investment Promotion Agency of Kosovo media that he had “asked for alternative Union has currently three unused codes for GAP workshop, entitled The Importance of Direct means for Kosovo to win a code even with- south east Europe, according to Kukaj. In a conference organised by GAP, officials of Foreign Investment and Cooperation of out UN membership”. None has so far been allocated to Kosovo. the institute said that there is a need for more Governmental and Local Governance Activities, With the intermediation of UNMIK, coordination between local and central govern- bureaucracy and unprofessionalism was dis- “For Kosovo’s current political sta- Kosovo applied for its international dialling ment. cussed. code in 2004, a move rejected because of its Shpend Ahmeti, head of GAP, said the country Jonuz Kastrati, spokesperson for the Ministry tus, it is easier to apply for a geo- unsettled status at that time. needs to fulfill the economic criteria set by the EU of Trade and Industry,said the state must support graphic rather than a national However, Kosovo’s political leaders are to become part of the European family. “The cre- local government in boosting methods to attract now optimistic that after the declaration of ation of a trade economy and the ability to com- foreign investment. code. After that, it is easier to independence, recognised by 60 states, it pete economically are among the central criteria “The government must closely cooperate with transfer the former into a national could now be successful. mentioned in the Copenhagen criteria to become municipalities to attract foreign investment, since code of the country,” “Kosovo might use its membership at the a member of the EU,” he says. it is considered a very important passport to eco- World Bank and the IMF to pressure the Kosovo is far from fulfilling these criteria as it nomic development, the opening of workplaces international mechanisms to be given its lacks economic stability and fiscal sustainability, and the improvement of citizen welfare,” said Agim Kukaj, director of the ICT own national code,” Kukaj told Prishtina he added. Kastrati. Insight. For the last three years, the progress report of Kosovo is the poorest country in Europe with an department at the ministry for According to Limaj, Kosovo has now the European Union mentions the same objec- unemployment rate of around 40 percent, accord- telecommunications applied for a code with the help of the EU, tions to Kosovo’s economic situation, focusing on ing to the World Bank. and he hopes a number will be assigned to the problems with the energy supply and the The head of the Investment Promotion Agency the country soon. organisation of public enterprises. of Kosovo, Mustafe Hasani, said that Kosovo “We have lobbied our allies who have But he admitted that not having a coun- needs to make more of its vast natural and human recognised Kosovo’s independence to help try code is contributing to Kosovo’s weak resources in order to compete in the international us get other countries to accept us in the economic development. market. International Telecommunications Union Post and Telecommunications Kosovo, organisation,” said Limaj. PTK, still operates its terrestrial telephone Kosovo has not been able to join the organ- service under Serbia’s country code, +381, isation because it is not a member of the while its mobile service Vala operates United Nations. If a country is not a member under Monaco’s +377. of the UN, it must receive at least two-thirds Meanwhile, the country’s second mobile of members’ votes to be accepted. provider IPKO operates under Slovenia’s Agim Kukaj, director of the ICT depart- country code, +386. ment at the ministry for telecommunica- After the end of the conflict between tions, told Prishtina Insight that Kosovo Kosovo and Serbia, Serbia’s mobile opera- will first apply for a geographic code which tors 063 and 064 were still in use in Kosovo. could later be transferred into an interna- The initial high prices offered by Vala tional code. encouraged many Kosovars to use the “For Kosovo’s current political status, it Serbian networks.

is easier to apply for a geographic rather But the masts were eventually removed byPhoto FoNet Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit Dairy Producers in Kosovo than a national code. After that, it is easier for political reasons. EU headquarters in Brussels 6 • july 3 - 16, 2009 city Prishtina through the eyes of: Improvements to Samandar Rafat Administrative and finance assistant Prishtina’s Psychiatric at Lux-Development regional office

What surprised you most Clinic Unveiled about Prishtina? rishtina’s psychiatric clinic I came to Prishtina the first has undergone much needed time in September 2002, and Prenovation and now fulfills stayed here until September 2004. EU requirements, Minister of When I moved back here in Health Alush Gashi announced on September 2008 I was primarily Tuesday. impressed with the changes that “This centre was established and took place within four years. functions on the basis of current Suddenly there are shopping standards,” Gashi said at the open- malls and hypermarkets (even ing ceremony held at the psychi- though they usually don’t spell atric ward of the Central that word correctly). Mother University Clinic of Kosovo, QKUK. Teresa Street has turned into a According to Gashi, the EU walking zone, the road to Fushe requested that a newly renovated Kosova has been widened, the rehabilitation section for drug- byPhoto FoNet road to Skopje has improved users be included in the psychiatric Kosovo hospitals which are in very bad conditions tremendously, electricity is on almost 24/7 etcetera, etcetera. But clinic. The renovation also involved One of the Minister’s advisors, ovations were made possible by a I think that people here do not painting the entire clinic to Skender Berisha, told Prishtina Swiss government donation of really value these changes, as improve the environment for Insight that this priority is based on 500,000 euro. they experienced them progres- patients. the “crimes committed during the So far, only 50,000 euro has been sively and thus simply did not “We are witnesses that the QKUK conflict of 1998-99”. Samandar Rafat used for renovations. Ulaj said that notice them the way I did after has humanised the environment of “Massacres, torture, violence and the rest would be used for staff being out of Kosovo for four years. would you change? this area of treatment, creating a other crimes have contributed to training purposes. Initiate recycling in Prishtina. familiar environment, so that considerably lowering social What’s your favourite hang- The amounts of plastic, glass, and patients that arrive at the clinic can morale and increasing trauma. Any “Until now, 50,000 euro has been out? other materials that are just wast- feel at home,” added Gashi. post-conflict society needs to pro- invested, while the rest will be used I usually don’t go out too much ed here is enormous. Gashi added that mental health mote mental health,” he said. for the training of staff,” he said, because of time constraints, but has been a priority for the Ministry According to the Director of the adding that the training would last when I do, I am happy to go wher- How many macchiatos do you of Health since the end of the war. QKUK, Jusuf Ulaj, the current ren- around 30 months. ever my friends want to go. drink a day? I am half Iranian, so I am a Do you do anything cultural? heavy tea-drinker. Prishtina Gifts €15 Renovation of That depends on how you define “cultural”, but probably nothing What’s the tastiest Kosovar in the traditional sense. food? million of Land to Prishtina’s What is Kosovar food? The only What is the most annoying authentic things I know here are US for New Embassy Clocktower Begins thing about Prishtina? Flija and Pasul. Everything else The traffic is probably the most seems to be some variation of rishtina’s Municipal Assembly is to hand five rishtina’s famous Clocktower is to be restored to annoying thing. And the fact that Turkish/Albanian/Bosnian food. hectares of prime real estate to the US government its former glory. . I still have not found a place where Since I am highly allergic to for a new embassy, according to an agreement P PAfter months of being shrouded in green net- I can buy fresh chicken fillet. beans, I will have to go for Flija, signed between the two parties on Wednesday. ting, an assessment of the necessary work on the 19th I also would not mind the city to depending on who makes it. Elected members representing Prishtina decided to century monument – Sahat-kulla – is now being car- be greener, though to be fair, it is give this land to the US government as a sign of gratitude ried out. much greener now than five years What landmark do you use to for the country’s contribution to Kosovo’s statehood. Renovation of this iconic building has been ago. tell taxi drivers where you live? US Ambassador to Prishtina Tina Kaidanow said that declared the focus of the Ministry of Culture. The If you were mayor of Close to the Bata shoe-store at the construction of the embassy may not start until 2013. director of the Institute for Protection of Monuments, Prishtina for the day what the Qafa. “The land is a property of Prishtina’s assembly and it Haxhi Mehmetaj, said the repairs required workers to will be given for free to the US Embassy,” Prishtina’s be “very careful during their activities”. municipality spokesperson, Muhamet Gashi, told Once the structure, located in Prishtina’s old town, Prishtina Insight. has been assessed, damaged stones will be replaced A Taste of Kosovo Dragodan, also known as Arberia, is considered to be with new ones. the elite neighborhood of Prishtina, and is home to most The 26-metre high hexagonal monument, built of embassies, diplomatic missions and ambassadors’ resi- sandstone and red dences. brick, provided its Meze Gashi refused to put a value on the land. “We didn’t neighbourhood with ezes are popular across the make these calculations,” said Gashi. the time when people eastern Mediterranean, But according to Agron Beka, owner of Imobilije Real did not have clocks Estate Agency in Prishtina, the minimum price for 10 MArab and Persian world. or watches at home. The word comes from the Persian square meters of The clock tower “maze”, which means taste or land in Dragodan dates back to the snack. would be 30,000 mid-19th century, While it is a selection of appetiz- euro. This would when it was typical ers or small dishes across the put a 15 million for every Ottoman region, what the meze is made of euro price tag on town to have a clock changes greatly from country to the five hectares of tower in the bazaar country. land, the equiva- area, says Valbona Mezes in the Balkans have been lent of five football Saliuka, architect at omnipresent since the Ottoman country. pitches, being the Institute for conquest, and usually consist of These appetizers are often bequeathed to Monuments and white cheese; sliced ripe melon; accompanied by domestic raki, Kosovo’s ally. Regional Museum, hot pepper paste, often with wal- whether it is made of grapes, peer, When question Prishtina. nuts and thick yoghurt. or strawberries. about the value of This was the only A meze in Kosovo often includes the land, Gashi way for people to ori- hard and creamy cheeses; olives; To prepare a plate for 4 peo- added: “I don’t ent themselves sour cream known as kajmak; ple you need: want to enter into throughout the day. pickles; and dry spicy sausage, debates. This was a Most big cities in the sugjuk. 300 grams of white cheese unanimous deci- region have clock Kosovars often use Sharri 100 grams of olives sion of 51 deputies towers, including cheese, from the Sharr mountains, 2 packs of sour cream (kajmak)

Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit for a friend coun- Skopje, which has for meze, which is considered to be

Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit 400 grams of sugjuk, which can Current US Ambassador to Kosovo, try such as the one of the oldest. the best cheese produced in the be eaten cold or fried Tina Kaidanow US.” Sahat Kulla feature • july 3 - 16, 2009 7 Kosovo’s Young Turn to Fortunetellers for Counselling From fortunetelling Imams with advice hotlines to mystics who perform prayers to secure good exam results – welcome to the strange world of mysti- cism which has put Prishtina’s young women under a spell. Caught between tradition and western influences, many are turning to soothsayers for advice and counselling, Prishtina Insight can reveal. Shega A’Mula investigated why this section of the population is being pushed towards tarot cards and coffee readings, and discovered how these mystics conjure up a strange mix of folklore and Islam. Imam Morina added that for- tunetellers use aspects of Islam to connect with their clients, who By Shega A’Mula in feel comfortable with the reli- Prishtina gion. “Using Islam has a psychologi- cal affect. There is no way to pre- You have been cursed by dict the future with the Koran,” someone in your family,” he added. “ the voice on the other end Leading sociologist Anton of the phone told me, just min- Berishaj tells Prishtina Insight utes into our conversation. “If that Kosovar society continues to you would like to get rid of this hold negative stereotypes of psy- curse, all we need to do is meet.” chiatry, creating an opportunity The next day, at the arranged for other types of therapy. spot near the Mother Teresa “The young, notably young statue in Prishtina, I spotted a women, according to a back- small, mustachioed, middle- wards tradition, were not viewed aged man in jeans and a polo positively if they were seen in shirt – it was Hoxha Latifi, a hospitals or psychiatric wards,” self-proclaimed imam and for- he said, adding that “today, new tuneteller, whose advice hotline generations of psychologists do is popular with young Prishtina not have enough institutional urbanites. support to practice their profes- We sat down in a nearby café. sion”, further contributing to He asked me my date of birth “an institutional vacuum in and my mother’s name, request- Kosovar society”. ed a paper and pen from the Berishaj believes that because waiter, and began scribbling of fortunetelling’s folkloric back- numbers and Arabic script. ground, it is more accepted as an After a few minutes of calcula- alternative to psychiatric help. tions, he delivered his diagno- “Young women and men need Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit sis: I needed to drink blessed The Holy book of Islam, the Koran, prayer beads and a turkish coffee turned over to release the fortune-holding grains to renounce the traditions of water, once a day for five days to their great-grandmothers who rid myself of the curse and to For 21-year-old Prishtina posed destinies in the dark fused with Islam, creating what thought of magic and for- find love. The cost – 35 euro. native Fjolla, a visit to Hajrie, grains. Shehu calls “a mix of mysticism tunetelling as the only salvation Hoxha Latifi is just one of who reads fortunes and sum- “I come to see Lumja almost and Islam”. and cure,” he said. many soothsayers whose servic- mons special prayers using the every week. She just knows A void of spiritual influences “A psychologist needs to be es are becoming increasingly Koran, means success with her things, and I like visiting her,” and a declining interest in Islam seen as a person who helps popular in Kosovo. forthcoming exams. For her said one young woman waiting may be one of the reasons why restore energy, relief, relax- slightly older sister, Zana, it is a in line for a sitting with the for- young woman are choosing to ation.” glimpse of her future life with tuneteller. visit fortunetellers, Shehu “Young women in Kosovo are her boyfriend which brings her Tarot reader Turkan, from believes. “She knew everything, and now exposed to the way to this Fushe Kosove suburb. Vushtrri, has also seen demand “We have not learned to speak “She knew everything, and for her services grow, and trav- of spirituality within the she helped me with all my other women are living she helped me with all my prob- els to Prishtina every Friday to Albanian language,” he said, problems. I’ve even been get- around the world, and their lems. I’ve even been getting bet- accommodate the needs of the adding that “Young woman are ter marks on my exams,” Fjolla big city dwellers, who cannot looking for help but ending up at ting better marks on my lives have become more told Prishtina Insight. make it out to her town on the the wrong address”. exams,” dynamic as well,” Fjolla and Zana are not the road to Mitrovica. Kosovo’s emergence from only young Kosovar women “You can call me whenever years of communism and repres- seeking the counsel of for- you like on Fridays. I work from sion has opened the door to west- 21-year-old Fjolla. Fahredin Shehu, tunetellers. A visit to a sooth- my sister’s hair salon in ern ideas and has paved the way sayer is becoming a regular Prishtina because many girls for more opportunities for a researcher in mysticism As one girl visiting Turkan in activity for a growing number of cannot make it to me here,” she women than ever before. It has Vushtrri put it: “It’s not so and religion. young women, from university said. also left some women caught much believing in what she tells students to young high-flying between two worlds without the you, but the fact that you can urbanites. support network or communal Young, educated women strug- “Young women and men talk freely. It gives you hope.” “All of my friends have been knowledge to know where to gling with the everyday travails While the gift of divination to fortunetellers around the need to renounce the tradi- turn. of growing up, and torn between remains questionable to many, country, and they continue to go tions of their great-grand- “Young women in Kosovo are tradition and western influ- Shehu explains that for- whenever they have boy trouble now exposed to the way other ences, are shunning the physia- mothers who thought of tunetellers are able to put their or concerns about their family,” women are living around the trist coach, or the comforting clients in a type of trance, in a female university student told magic and fortunetelling as world, and their lives have words of a friend, and turning order to better read their emo- Prishtina Insight. become more dynamic as well,” to mysticisms. the only salvation and cure,” tions and thoughts. With a couple of phone calls, said Shehu. At the home of Hajrie, a popu- “They hypnotise you and feel Prishtina Insight was able to Over 90 percent of Kosovars lar resident of a village near your vibrations, that is how obtain contact details for dozens Sociologist consider themselves Muslim, Fushe Kosove, a well-read Koran they are able to tell you what of fortunetellers from Prishtina Anton Berishaj whether they practice it or not. sits on the coffee table. A gaggle to Gjakova. However, Imam Driton Morina you are feeling,” he said. of well-dressed, young women Fortuneteller Lumja in told Prishtina Insight that for- And Hajrie from Fush Kosove have gathered in her makeshift Vranjec, a neighbourhood of Fahredin Shehu, a researcher tunetelling is firmly forbidden appeared able to intercept sitting room, but they are not Prishtina, had a similar throng in mysticism and religion and by Islam. Prishtina Insight’s investiga- here to exchange gossip and of young twenty-somethings author, told Prishtina Insight “According to Islam, to be able tive purposes on a visit to her enjoy a cup of Turkish coffee. waiting in her sitting room, sip- that fortunetelling was brought to tell the future is not a human home. They have travelled from across ping Turkish coffee from small to the Balkans more than 1,000 competency, and is only reserved “Why are you here? You are Kosovo to ‘peer into the future’ cups, which they would later years ago by Roma travelers. for God, so it is not allowed,” he not here because you believe, with the help of the holy book. hand over to reveal their sup- Over the centuries, this ritual said. but for other reasons,” she said. 8 • july 3 - 16, 2009 guide A Taste of Turkey in Kosovo - Prizren

By Vjosa Musliu in Prishtina

rizren, Kosovo’s former cap- ital city, is heaven for a Prelaxing weekend away from grey, smoky Prishtina. Located on the slopes of the Sharr Mountains in southern Kosovo, Prizren is a museum piece of the Ottoman heritage to Kosovo. Sprawled along the Lumbardhi River, Prizren delivers gorgeous views of kalldrem roads (which roughly translates as cobbled), mosques, churches and ham- mams. While the rest of Kosovo has been besieged by new, modern monstrosities, Prizren has emerged virtually unscathed from communist planning and has kept its unique look, with two-storey houses dotted across the hill ris- ing from the river. Prizren has not just retained architecture from the Ottoman era, but also delicious Turkish food and the language. Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina Musliu for Vjosa On top of the hill, which cups Prizren’s Lumbardhi River the city, is Prizren’s castle, offer- ing a marvelous view. For smok- rants, encouraging you to have a of the restaurants offer a good Ottoman corner. Near the foun- ers whose alpinist skills have coffee or a bite to eat, but with- choice of Middle Eastern and tain, a small corner shop offers Prizren is the contact been eroded by tar, the 25 minutes out descending into the aggres- Ottoman cuisine. “Crepes de Paris” and “American point of Kosovo Albanian’s on foot to the castle may be sive hawking seen in many Lahmacun, a dish consisting of donuts”. exhausting, but the view from the tourism spots. a round, thin piece of dough If you want to learn more Catholic, Muslim and top is certainly rewarding. Their menus offer a decent topped with minced meat, is also about Albanian history, a tour of Dervish legacy. It is also Slightly below the castle is choice of Kosovar – Turkish and served at quite reasonable the museum dedicated to the Prizren’s Catholic church, which Bosnian food. A Croatian friend prices. League of Prizren should be on the home of Kosovo’s is followed by several mosques as of mine would always say that Internationals rave about how your itinerary. The group was nationalism and history, you head down the hill to the “after Sarajevo, the best qebapi delicious machiattos are in formed in 1878 to promote inner city. It is a shame that are served in Prizren”. This is Kosovo. Indeed, comparing the Albanian political interests, and most vividly represented many of the churches in the city certainly true. macchiatos of Prishtina to the the restored building and its con- by the League of Prizren centre remain damaged and out Along with a mixed salad and others in the region, Kosovo’s tents are fascinating. of bounds following the March toasted bread, a portion with 7 capital is definitely near the top. For an afternoon coffee or beer, museum. A large number 2004 riots. delicious qebapi arrived in Yet, the ever so creamy coffee there are plenty of choices, from of mosques, churches, Besides being a place where record time when you sat down served up for free in Prizren was Café Hemingway to the long line culture, history and beauty are for food. We chose Restaurant incomparable to the ones we of cafés along the bridge, with hammams, and tekkes intermingled, Prizren is also Besimi for our lunch, and were have in Prishtina. the terraces overlooking the offer a view of a very known for its hospitality. Unlike not disappointed. Apart from the local delicacies, river and beautiful bridges. And anywhere else in Kosovo, waiters Apart from these famous meat- the international presence in many of these stay buzzing late vibrant history and cul- will politely greet you outside balls, which are absolutely deli- Kosovo has brought slices of into the evening, if you wish to ture. their small, well ordered restau- cious everywhere in Prizren, all Western food to this very extend your stay. Something for the weekend… Kokino tion to face the rising sun in the east. In 2002, physicist Gjore Cenev By Lawrence Marzouk from the Planetarium in Skopje joined the exploratory team and noted that seven markers had been he stamp-run is the bane of made in vertical rocks and had many an international’s been used for defining the posi- Tweekend: a sticky six-hour tions of the rising Sun and Moon. round trip to comply with what While you will usually have the sometimes seems like mindless site almost to yourself, apart from bureaucracy. a helpful guide who spends his day But for those who are not in a there, on key dates, such as June race to be clocked out and then 21, the mountain is buzzing with back into Serbia and straight activity. home to Prishtina, why not com- Artifacts dating back 3800 years bine this unpleasant journey with old have been found on the hill, a visit to one of the world’s fourth which has been nominated to oldest observatories, Kokino? become a UNESCO heritage site. Along what seems like an end- -The site lies 30km from less, meandering road off the main Kumanovo off the main highway Kumanovo-Nis highway, lies one of to Nis. Watch out for the sign not Photo byPhoto Marzouk Lawrence the most remarkable sites in the long after crossing into Macedonia Balkans. The anicent observatory of Kokino from Serbia and keep an eye out On a lofty peak, high above the enough to tempt you to this lonely of the most important, and oldest, from the National Museum of for other markers along the route. strategically important plain, outcrop, the incredible history of observatories in the world by,none Kumanovo. The last stretch of the journey which runs through Serbia and Macedonia’s Stonehenge should other than, space agency NASA. He uncovered two stone thrones takes at least 15 minutes, so do not Macedonia, is Kokino. be. The site was discovered in 2001 crafted into the rock and posi- be put off, every turning is sign- If the awe-inspiring view is not Kokino has been ranked as one by archeologist Jovica Stankovski tioned in the north-south direc- posted. food & drink • july 3 - 16, 2009 9 The Mexican Restaurant Which is Making Waves in Prishtina

By Maneater in Prishtina

t’s easy to imagine a spotless Mexican coast, swaying palm Itrees and an immaculate five- star resort while dining at Cavallero Mexican Cantina. However, the truth of the matter is that the Mexican coast is actually a parking lot, the surrounding palm trees are apartment blocks with protruding satellite dishes as oppose to coconuts, and the five-star resort is nothing more than Prishtina’s very own EULEX build- ing. I guess good food can really put you in an extraordinary mood. After hearing rave reviews about this Mexican eatery, my dining partner and I chose to trade in our lunchtime machiattos for a couple of strawberry daiquiris, and our usual salad or sandwich for some Latino fare. Seeing as the weather was warm but breezy that day,we took a seat at one of the wooden tables positioned on the front terrace. White curtains and tropical wicker provided an exotic feel to the dining experience and created an appropriately Central American affair. byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit The well-stocked and Sombrero detailed bar of Cavallero. The interior also incorporates Mexican appeal across its two- cosmopolitan for round two. drinks, which appeared in the cor- Out of a collection of tacos, bur- larger party one night, in order to storey dining area. Sombreros and Out of the list of mouthwatering responding glasses with perfect gar- ritos, quesadillas, fajitas and more, request the countless options off Mexican memorabilia make up the appetizers, we chose a plate of nishes and icy textures, ideal com- we went with enchiladas with a beef the menu, enjoy the attentive serv- majority of the décor, but, surpris- nachos with melted cheese, and pliments to the spicy nature of our steak filling for our first main, and ice and engage in a fiesta of food ingly,this does not feel tacky. Large radesca. The nachos were authen- food. tequila lime chicken for our second. sharing and cocktail toasting for windows across the entire front tic, with a plate full of scrumptious The enchiladas arrived plated on the warm summer evening. wall of each level compensate for tortilla chips wrapped in two types a patterned dish, with a side of yel- the otherwise narrow space. of melted cheese, with guacamole, The waiter arrived and placed low rice, diced tomatoes, corn, bean The waiter arrived and placed zesty salsa and sour cream sauces brightly coloured menus full salad and jalapeno peppers. The fill- We Recommend brightly coloured menus full of pic- to the side. The radesca incorporat- ing was most enjoyable, with melted tures onto the table. The drinks ed cheese, salsa and sour cream fill- of pictures onto the table. cheese, thinly sliced and well sea- PoshNosh pages (yes, more than one) include ing between two warm and floury The drinks pages (yes, more soned beef strips and salsa. The Enjoy an inexpensive but alluring cocktails, imported spirits tortillas, and a side dish of colour- wrapped tortilla was topped with and Mexican beer. Not knowing ful salad. than one) include alluring chili sauce. flavoursome lunch at this what to go for first, we ordered a The contents of these two entrées cocktails, imported spirits The tequila lime chicken was cutesy venue, serving fresh couple of frozen strawberry were cleaned off pretty quickly, and Mexican beer. equally colourful, and came with specials everyday, with daiquiris for round one, opting for a especially with the help of our the same sides as the enchiladas. A pina colada and Malibu pineapple generous portion of grilled chicken great salad options. breast ran along the side of the 049 261 626 dish, but missed any real explosion of Mexican flavour. But the tequila shot and slices of gorgeous lime SachPizza served with the meal may have con- tributed to lifting our approval rat- Sach Pizza is definetly the ings. spot to stop at when in dire Dessert options are ample, with rice pudding, cinnamon dipped need of some quality chow, pumpkin, deep fried sweet tortillas may it be on a quick lunch and more. The cream of the crop though was the chocolate cake, break or on a mission to which had a perfect texture and find some food after a night delectable homemade frosting. A long siesta was in order after on the town. such a filling meal, but my dining 044/049 896 896 partner and I unfortunately had to head back to the office. Nevertheless, we decided that we Basilico would be back at Cavallero with a Among a myriad of so called ‘Italian’ restaurants Grade: 4.5/5 in Prishtina, this snug Cavallero Mexican Cantina is on eatery scores high marks the pedestrian street which runs alongside the EULEX build- for authentic dishes served ing, close to Grand Hotel. at top speed. Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit Diners opting to have cool drinks indoors rather then sit on the outdoor terrace. Telephone: 044 508 980 044/049 276 276 10 • july 3 - 16, 2009 arte Stories to Remember, Stories to Forget The National Theatre in Prishtina has finished the season with Ariel Dorfman’s Death and the Maiden – a painful story of a victim coming face to face with her torturer

suspense, reminiscence, confession, By Arif Muharremi fear and guilt, which are closely in Prishtina observed by the audience, as the Arif Muharremi seats are just few steps away from the stage, allowing the actors to eople say that stories have to direct the intensely real messages be told, no matter how much to the crowd. Ppain they can cause or how Director Berisha says that the deep the wounds are. The last play play’s message is aimed directly at of the season at the National the actual situation in Kosovo. “We, Theatre in Prishtina revealed the as a society, need to tell the truth most traumatic of tales – that of and say to the world what happened raped women. to us, we have to seek repentance Vdekja dhe vasha, Death and the from those who did to us what they Maiden in English, is a play by did,” says Berisha, referring to the Death and the Maiden was the last production of the National Theatre’s season. Ariel Dorfman. The director Fatos conflict with Serbia that ended just Berisha manages to convey ten years ago. unaware of who he is and his wife’s The play’s title is taken from a ago. The emotions were so vividly stronger emotions than Polanski in The play begins with the secret bitter past. piece of music by Franz Schubert, portrayed that one could not escape his 1994 movie remake, since simi- tragedy of a woman, which is just Istrefi says there are still people which Paulina loved but grew to from the Balkan’s recent history lar stories happened here in about to return to her doorstep. in Kosovo who face these painful revile when it was played repeated- and the thousands of untold stories Kosovo. Paulina Escobar (Yllka Gashi) is a stories, and this particular play ly during her torture sessions. among women in Kosovo and Starring two experienced theatre former political prisoner in an doesn’t offer the actors the luxury Death and the Maiden is a 1991 Bosnia, which have been buried actors, Luan Jaha and Shkumbin unnamed Latin American country to perform illusions to the audi- play by Chilean playwright Ariel inside them. Istrefi, as well as a young actress, who had been raped by her captors, ence. Dorfman and the world premiere The intensity was also raised by Yllka Gashi, the play marked a led by a sadistic doctor whose face “This is a hard play to be a part of was staged at the Royal Court loud shots and curses at such a high comeback of director Berisha after she never saw, and who, out of the because you have the audience so Theatre in London on 9 July, 1991, level that even actor Luan Jaha was nearly ten years away from the the- blue, comes one day to her house. near you cannot ‘cheat’ them as directed by Lindsay Posner. disturbed. “The closeness of the atre scene, when he made Havel’s The rapist, Roberto Miranda (Luan when you have them seated further The Kosovo production was strik- text, and the story with our postwar Audience back in 1999 in Dodona Jaha), arrives on their doorstep, but away. You have to act naturally, and ing for the audience, considering reality – it was as if I was acting theatre. Paulina’s husband, Gerardo every feeling has to be true, every that many women were raped dur- parts from my autobiography,” he The play’s signature is post-war (Shkumbin Istrefi), is initially act has to be for real,” he explains. ing the Kosovo conflict ten years said.

Kosovo’s version of Forbidden Love Debuts in US to Raves Reviews An Original Musical about Kosovo stirs up a storm in the windy city, Chicago

enry H. Perritt Junior struck by the “crazy idea” of put- “As I fleshed out the story, it Vjosa and Dragan are in love, spent the last ten years of ting their stories of Kosovo to was suggested I do a musical,” but she is an Albanian and he is a Hhis life helping rebuild music. The result is the musical Perritt writes. “I thought it was a Serb, thus making it impossible Kosovo after its violent ethnic You Took away my Flag. crazy idea. Then as I thought to continue their relationship. conflict in the 1990s. Perritt, a one-time adviser to more about it, I thought: ‘That’s a The show debuted on June 12 at But as well as being an accom- Kosovo’s leaders, wrote a song hell of an idea.’” the Strawdog Theater, Chicago, plished attorney and academic, about the KLA that was played on It’s a classic story of young and has been a sell-out success he is also a long-time music com- radio and television across lovers separated by cultural since. poser. Kosovo, so he decided to have it divides, in this case war and eth- For more information visit Perritt and a collaborator were translated into Albanian. nicity. www.youtookawaymyflag.com. inside Prishtina • july 3 - 16, 2009 11 Bar Review Hani i 2 Roberteve ucked away from the throngs Wines are smartly divided by of people walking along region on the menu, showing selec- TMother Teresa Square is Hani tions from Spain and Italy just to i 2 Roberteve, a new restaurant and name a few. Attractive appetizer wine bar with an already mature options varying from garlic-fused reputation in classy service. Showy bruschetta on rye bread, meaty wild signs and fancy advertisements are mushrooms with fried onions and absent from the entrance – swank is the Hani salad – which includes reserved for the gorgeous interior dried meat, creamy mozzarella and instead. fresh lettuce, tomatoes and onion – Low lighting shows off the dark nicely supplement a glass of rich plum hues, complemented by a sin- wine. gle, brick wall, which adds an urban Authentic pastas, pizzas and an edge to an overall lush atmosphere. assortment of seafood options are Velvety detailed olive-coloured seat- on offer for main courses. The man- ing circle around strong, dark-wood- ager prides Hani i 2 Roberteve for ed tables adorned with gold table their preparation of seafood. settings. A glance at the picturesque por- The romantic lighting also hits trait of the New York Skyline over-

Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit the labels of many bottles of foreign looking Central Park positioned on The revolving bar atop the Pandora Tower wine stacked along plentiful shelv- the brick wall adds to the aura of a ing, a quality which the manager gracious Manhattan setting which Avni tells Prishtina Insight has intentionally or not, the owners been a strong feature of Hani 2 have achieved. Roberteve from the beginning of So when you stop by Hani i 2 Pandora’s Panorama their business venture. Roberteve, be prepared for a more the feeling of owning the whole A set of stairs lead guests to a “Wine culture has been our cul- intimate evening encouraged by soft city. large room equipped with a private ture for over 20 years”, he said. compositions and courteous staff. “The crossroads reminded me of bar and projector screen, which is By Shega A’Mula a building in Frankfurt that is sim- ideal area for a select gathering. in Prishtina ilarly positioned in the centre of The entire Dragodan backdrop is two very busy streets. That’s where visible from this room. I got the idea for the Pandora The third level of the restaurant aldet Avdiu had never Tower,” he told Prishtina Insight. area is the round UFO like pinna- planned to construct a An art buyer by profession, cle of Pandora. Glass walls and Vbuilding in Dragodan, Avdiu takes pride in the architec- wooden seating surround a central Prishtina. The land which now ture of the Pandora Tower which bar, which stays still while the rest holds his ten-storey building was he says was heavily influenced by of the area slowly spins. A sip of a previously a mass of residential his love for a mix of contemporary drink later, and a whole new gardens, perfectly complimented and traditional. The exterior of the panorama of Prishtina is present- by a romantic villa. However in building is profoundly modern, ed to you. 2005, the elderly owners of the villa with the use of commercial glass, A separate entrance, guarded by

were approached by a man con- grey cement and stainless steel. security, is located at the side of byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit sumed with inspiration. The walls are round, giving the the building, and leads residents to Manhattan style bar in the centre of Prishtina But only after the flooring of the Pandora the shape of a semi-cylin- their apartments. The corridors villa was totally destroyed by water der with a boxy rear. are immaculately clean, and appro- leakage in 2007 did Avdiu decide to The first two levels of the build- priate safety regulations such as Shop Review tear it down and begin construct- ing are spacious yet bare, since emergency exits and fire alarms ing the large high-rise which today they are expected to be let out for are in place. The maintenance of dominates the skyline. Some 15 lease to prospective businesses. the building had to be top-notch months later, Pandora Tower was The elevator with one button said Avdiu, as 95 per cent of his Bling Accessories finished, complete with luxurious which leads visitors to the restau- residents are internationals sta- n a city full of either over- restaurant and international guest rant area is located on the first tioned in Prishtina, with high stan- priced gold or tawdry orna- list. level, with a glass wall which runs dards of safety. Iments, Bling Accessories cov- A gaze out across Prishtina from across the side of the building. “Ambassadors, EULEX staff, and ers the middle ground for quality the terrace balcony of the high Rich shades of dark wood and other international workers chose jewelry at prices that will keep you level restaurant does enough to jus- fancy furnishing in the restaurant the Pandora for their residence. We coming back for more. After tify Avdiu’s grand inspiration. The drastically contrast to the mini- make sure to fulfil all of their west- exploring possible business ven- building is positioned at the cross- malism of the rest of the building. ern standards,” he said. tures, style-savvy owner and roads of two highly urban streets Tables are set with plush dining Avdiu led us on a guided tour of Skopje-native Bekim Ademi decid- – UCK Boulevard which is also utensils and glasses, chairs are one of the uninhabited apartments ed to turn to his family for inspira- known as Qafa, and Fehmi Agani expensively embroidered and the facing the city. A large corridor tion. Street, which is home to the small freshness of plants compliment the leads the guest into a vast sitting arrival of brands such as Gucci “My family has a background in cafés, or kafet te vogla. The view is range of tribal antiques placed area dominated by floor-to-ceiling and Louis Vuitton. An upcoming jewelry,so I developed an apprecia- outstanding, giving the spectator around the area. windows. Modern furniture, appli- trip to Greece will also usher in a tion for it while growing up,” he ances and hand-picked art sur- new line of beach bags, just in said. round the flat. time for holiday season. Ademi’s passion for his business “You [the resident] need to be the Men’s accessories are also avail- sends him to destinations across most important person in the able, from aggressive looking Europe to get a hold of unique room,” said Avdiu, while comment- chains and bracelets, to lustrous pieces he can attractively display ing on his choice of simple fur- yet masculine-looking rings which nishings. in his downtown shop. Recent trips signal metro-sexual style. The grounds of the Pandora are have brought Italian, Spanish and Perfume and posh skincare are perhaps the greenest of Dragodan, Turkish silver to his store. Hence displayed behind the jewelry with blossoming flowers, pome- the feeling of being a child in a counter, and include hard-to-find granate plants, various trees and candy shop again. luxury brands such as La Prairie, garden sculptures. Avdiu Oversized rings, Swarovski Helen Rubinstein and Chanel. explained that that he wanted to crystals, eye-catching necklaces So let Ademi do the travelling set an example for the rest of the and colourful stones make the task for you and bring products that neighbourhood, as the railroad of choosing one piece to try on all may have never made it into our tracks just below the grounds are that more difficult. Big names city without the opening of Bling. littered with rubbish. such as Chanel and Dolce and As mentioned, prices vary from Despite the fact that according to Gabbana join the throng of more striking silver rings priced at 30 Greek mythology, Pandora was the mysterious jewelers, which quite euro, to more lavish pieces reach- woman who released evil into the frankly are more attractive. ing prices over 100 euro. You may world, the tower remains an exam- Other than jewelry, Bling offers not break the bank, but it will defi- ple of more decent construction to a range of gorgeous handbags, nitely look like you did. Bling

Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit be completed after the war. which Ademi tells Prishtina Accesories is locate on Rexhep Pandora’s owner shows us his taste of design at the tower’s offices Insight will expand with the Luci Street, just before Kino ABC. 12 • july 3 - 16, 2009 neighbourhood Albania Election Result Still on a Knife’s Edge

By Besar Likmeta in Tirana

lbania’s Democratic Party claimed victory in Sunday’s parliamentary Aelections with 99 per cent of the bal-

lots counted. byPhoto Jakov Sinisa Masuric “Our coalition was certified by the people,” Prime Minister Sali Berisha, Casino in Belgrade head of the party, told a cabinet meeting on Wednesday. “EU integration will be the most important issue in the next four years in government,” he added. Russian Casinos To However, it was not clear whether Berisha’s coalition would in fact secure Find New Home in all the seats it needed to form the next government. The process of counting the last ballot Balkans boxes in some areas has moved slowly, everal of the largest Russian casino owners blocked by disputes between both camps, plan to relocate to the Balkans after a Russian which traded accusations of cheating a Photo byPhoto FoNet Sban on gambling introduced on July 1, reports couple of days after the elections. Party supporters celebrate after elections in Albania on Sunday Serbian media. With unofficial results now in from The former Russian president, Vladimir Putin, 4,659 out of 4,753 polling stations, the count is over, the blocs will try to woo “Both political parties have a tenden- now Prime Minister, announced the forthcoming clo- Democrats led overall with 40.91 per MPs from each other in a phenomenon cy to steal each other’s electoral promis- sure of all casinos and slot machine halls in Russia’s cent, trailed by the Socialists on 40.01 nicknamed “deputy trafficking”. es and as a result there has been a ten- major cities back in 2006. per cent. The Socialist Movement for Three exit polls published after the dency not to present clear platforms, The casino owners have decided to move to Serbia, Integration, LSI, was third with 4.81 per voting closed gave a significant advan- especially on the part of the opposi- Montenegro and Croatia because the flight distance cent. tage to Berisha but that does not seem to tion,” Nazarko said during the electoral from Moscow is only about three hours, while these The Democratic Party’s coalition, the have materialised now that the ballots campaign. countries all have visa-free regimes with Russia. Alliance for Change, has so far won 70 have been counted. Berisha and Rama also both claim “We have recently purchased the Queen of deputies, ahead of the Socialist coali- The elections have been peaceful and they are presenting the electorate with Montenegro hotel in Budva with 300 rooms and a tion’s 66 deputies and the LSI-led coali- calm, with only minor technical inci- the winning team. Berisha has even casino,” the president of the Korston group, Anatoliy tion’s four deputies. However, although dents reported. International observers nicknamed his list of candidates “the Kuznecov, was quoted as saying. it is ahead, Berisha’s coalition does not have concluded that they saw “marked team of the big victory”. He added that they would need to change the quite have the 71 deputies needed to progress” this time compared to Many civil society activists and hotel’s name to Korston Hotel and bring casino tables form the new government in the 140-seat Albania’s previous elections. celebrities are taking the opportunity to and machines from Moscow. The location of the assembly. Both Rama and Berisha were promis- stand for one of the two main parties, firm’s other casinos remains unknown. As ballots are still being counted, the ing to speed up the pace of Albania’s catapulted to the top of their respective situation could yet change, with one to integration into the European Union, lists in an attempt by the parties to three seats moving from one party to ensure liberalisation of the visa regime improve their public perception. another. Whichever bloc emerges winner with the EU, combat poverty and According to Lubonja, “both parties will almost certainly have only a small increase investment in rural areas, have a sort of totalitarian mentality and majority in parliament. home to more than half of Albania’s want to represent everyone in order to Commentators believe that once the population. get the maximum votes.” Slovenia, Croatia in New Airspace Dispute lovenia and Croatia have entered into a new diplomatic dispute after Slovenia Saccused its neighbour of violating its airspace only a few days after Slovenia blocked Croatia’s EU accession talks. The Slovenian news agency STA reported on Saturday that two Croatian fighter jets, which were escorting a foreign delegation, byPhoto Jakov Sinisa Masuric violated Slovenia’s airspace on June 19. Bucharest The two MIG 21 planes entered Slovenian airspace near the Lendava municipality and returned after covering eight kilome- tres inside Slovenian territory. They were Bucharest Police Go escorting Chinese President Hu Jintao, who was arriving in Zagreb from the direc- Online tion of Bratislava, Slovakia. The Slovenian Foreign Ministry has ahoo Messenger is to play an important role in delivered an angry protest note to the the country’s public relations with police, after Photo byPhoto Flickr Croatian embassy in Ljubljana. The Ythe launch on Monday in the Romanian capital Slovenian airspace Croatian embassy has not yet responded of the “Messenger Zone” project, which aims to improve communication with the general public. with the expected note of apology over the too seriously, pointing out that Slovenian the incident was not made public in order The local police made public a Yahoo address, incident, reports said. aircraft frequently violate Croatian air- to prevent further straining of the atmos- where citizens can send in requests and queries. The Slovenian Foreign Ministry intends space. The source said that the flight along phere over the border dispute between the “The project is just beginning, so we ask for to report the incident to NATO High the border on June 19 had been announced two countries. patience. But we will answer any question which is Command, which is tasked with protecting to Slovenian authorities in advance. EU officials said no progress had been related to our competences for sure,” said police Slovenian airspace. STA news agency said According to Croatia’s Jutarnji List daily, made towards brokering a deal between the spokeperson Christian Ciocan. that the Slovenian government was treat- the Slovenian Center for Air Traffic two countries. Despite substantial efforts to The Romanian police hope that by using online ing the matter as an incident and not as a Control issued a warning to the Croatian facilitate a solution to the country’s border communication many people will save time and threat or provocation. planes entering Slovenian airspace, and dispute with Slovenia, Croatia’s accession money. Croatia’s Javno.hr internet portal quoted that the pilots left Slovenian airspace with- talks remain “blocked and no new chapters Currently, there are around 12 million Internet a Croatian Defense Ministry source as say- in a minute of receiving the warning. can be formally opened or closed,” read an users in Romania. ing that the incident should not be taken The Slovenian daily Dnevnik reports that EU statement. op - ed • july 3 - 16, 2009 13 How to Turn the Software pirates into pioneers Kosova’s Son-in-Law to enforce it locally. Even education institutions themselves and to get a high-pay- There has been no expensive are teaching people to use soft- ing job. “Confessions of copyright education and enforce- ware that they cannot afford to The major motivation for com- By James Michael ment campaign put in place like buy, forcing their students to DuPont, of FLOSS Kosova panies is to have more control an Ecological you will find in USA and become pirates. over their costs. Instead of pay- Germany. Now, let’s present the idea of ing for expensive software Assassin” any of you have heard So the situation is that most FLOSS – Free/Libre Open Source updates or being stuck with old the term “Open Source” people have digital information in Software and how it fits into this versions, companies are given Mor “Linux”, maybe even the form of software and media to world. the option to hire programmers “LAMP”, and some of you already the value of tens of thousands of In many ways, technology has to fix problems that they consid- By Casey Cooper Johnson know more about it. euros, and the only cost they have reduced the gap between the er important. Let me tell you the most impor- to pay is the relatively low cost of more developed and less devel- Even the idea that they can tant things to know. Software is distribution. oped. help translate the software into couple of years ago, I read a star- basically a recipe or mathemati- The distribution cost, as we The cost of training has been Albanian or add their new coun- tling book, Confessions of an cal formula for doing something mentioned earlier, is the cost of a reduced for some skills, with try to the country list and their Economic Hitman, by John Perkins. in a specific domain of expertise computer which can be bought large communities meeting A home town to the city list is In this autobiographical account, Perkins that is recorded in a language that second-hand, starting at 50 euro online via email, chat, webcam unimaginable to most people. reveals the world of “economic hitmen”, can be processed and executed by in shops which collect them from and forums. With FLOSS you have these private development consultants paid by a computer. the rest of Europe. The other cost One can access the same inter- options available to you, because the US state to advise the leaders of devel- We have had this type of infor- is 1 to 3 euro for a software CD or net tools in Prishtina as in you are encouraged to change oping nations on their strategies for infra- mation long ago before we had DVD from a ‘CD shop’. Boston. them. Companies can purchase structure and exploitation of natural computers to execute them and These CD shops are selling con- Free/Libre does not mean support, but more importantly resources in a way that ultimately benefits before we had the means to dis- traband without any respect for cheap or low cost. It means free- here in the Balkans, they can American owned multinational corpora- tribute them. copyright or licenses. They are dom and liberty. The freedom to train their own support for much tions. The oldest examples of infor- proper shops with mailing read, understand, change and cheaper. Perkins, a former “hitman” himself, mation recording and copying are addresses and shop owners who distribute the software at your Now the companies who will describes his active participation in the the ancient dances and songs, leg- are feeding their families and sup- own pleasure. Open Source benefit the most from FLOSS are takeover of the Panama Canal, the invasion ends and sagas which are passed posedly paying taxes on these means that you have access to the the ones who are not in the soft- of Grenada, the building of the Saudi Royal verbally from one generation to profits. source code. ware business. This is the para- Kingdom, the Iran-Contra arms scandal, the next. In Greece, an EU member, and Each project has a different dox. The people who need soft- and the consequences of a failed attempt at Printed books have dominated Belgrade, I did not see these CD means of funding, a different ware to run their business are coercing Saddam Hussein into an econom- recent modern history, and for shops, but the street vendors and business model. the ones who gain the most. ic partnership with US corporations. many reasons, they are still the people with stacks of DVDs were The cost of the FLOSS soft- FLOSS turns the “pirates” into The picture he paints of the links main means of distribution here not harassed by the police. I was ware is the same as the pirated stakeholders by giving them full between US foreign policy, multinational in the Balkans. More recently, the told by people in Greece that no copies, except that you are legal- rights to the software and media corporations and the long arm of the CIA cost of copying has been reduced one buys copies of Windows there ly allowed to copy the FLOSS and US Military in an orchestrated effort to to a fixed cost of a computer plus and that copyright is not respect- software. The major advantage is that they download. What is the expand the American economic empire a flat monthly Internet fee that ed at all. that you are allowed to customise catch you may ask? Well the only since the 1960s is so sinister, it makes many can afford. This behavior is tolerated by it to your needs and to learn how restriction on the copying of this Balkan conspiracy theories look like chil- In the past, the sharing of soft- the large software companies and it was made. The difference is great software and other media is dren’s bedtime stories. ware programmes was not a com- media industry: the result is that that the software has been built that you must also share the I am sure glad such a dubious under- mon thing: the computers were people who are allowed to copy by a community of people who rights of any derivative works world of behind the scenes operators is enormously expensive, and the the software freely become its are working towards a common that you create. That little catch only make believe. software was rare. biggest future customers. goal. is the primary protection and the Perkins must have forgotten to label his On February 3, 1976, Microsoft The software industry has the Some of the software is better fuel for the FLOSS software that book “fiction”. For my part, I personally published the Open Letter to hope that one day these people than the proprietary counter- keeps it going over the years. burned the sacrilegious book after reading Hobbyists that heralded the can be convinced or forced to buy parts, some is not as good. The I would like to invite you all to what filth and lies it disseminated. beginning of the software indus- licenses when they have the difference is that the successful take part in the First The America that I know and love is the try. Its goal was to create quality money. This is certainly easier to FLOSS software is constantly International Software Freedom one that genuinely helps poorer nations software and books that could not enforce with large companies being updated and worked upon. Conference of Kosova on August develop themselves in a sustainable way, be done with the current free and governments. The problems in the software 29 and 30 at the Electro-technical advising them soundly on how to best man- copying. For companies, it is very Given that the people know (bugs) are being fixed by the com- University of Prishtina. We will age their own natural resources and build difficult to understand how only the pirated software, know munity at a rapid pace. be hosting events and providing their economies with regard to local owner- money can be made from all of of no alternative and have no Many of these people who are information and software. We ship and protection of the environment. this. support in exploring alterna- contributing the code are being have formed an organsiation That was certainly the case under the glob- The harsh reality is that in the tives, the large companies have paid to do so. called FLOSS Kosova which is ally sensitive leadership of former Balkans, there is little respect for no other choice but to use legal The major motivation for soft- organising this event. Email President George W. Bush, and I believe the legal restrictions placed on versions of the software that the ware developers to contribute to [email protected] that President Barack Obama is dedicated information when there is no one people are trained in using. FLOSS is to make a name for rg for more information. to such principles as well. I was therefore ecstatic to find that the Americans had taken such a keen interest Lessons for the Balkans from Belfast in supporting the development of Kosova’s being driven from their homes in Vojvodina a few years back, even cementing in place for all eterni- energy strategy. the city,they found sanctuary in a the arch-nationalist Kostunica, ty of an almost watertight divi- USAID’s 20 million dollar contract with church hall. But even that came then prime minister, hurried sion of political and geographical private consulting firms to advise the By Marcus Tanner under attack from stone-throwers, there to calm tensions. power between the self-appointed Kosova government on how to develop its so on they went. Now they have No such replay of that personal representatives of the Protestant energy sector was the perfect way of ensur- almost all fled the province, say- intervention was seen in Belfast unionists and Catholic national- ing that the USA’s dedication to sustainable ing they prefer to take their this week. As far as I know no gov- ists – a state of affairs that does- development and battling climate change he expulsion of Roma fami- chances back in Romania. ernment minister thought it n’t leave much room for anyone with a new green energy future would be lies from their homes in Had these scenes taken place in worthwhile to fly in. else. embraced by Kosova’s leadership. TNorthern Ireland shows the Balkans one suspects the rele- The story did not make much of There are lessons for this in the I am absolutely sure that American dol- how wrong the application of vant governments would have a splash in British newspapers, Balkans, where the international lars are indeed being spent for Kosova’s multi-culturalism can go when it been rapped over the knuckles, dominated by the ongoing saga community persists in urging ultimate benefit. is half-hearted. hard. Probably amongst others by over MPs’ excessive allowances and organising so-called returns And as American President Obama A hundred members of an eth- the finger-wagging British gov- .What does this all say,beyond the by displaced refugees to environ- works with the US Congress to pass nic minority community are driv- ernment, which loves nothing obvious fact that the British ments which they well know are unprecedented climate change legislation en from their homes, fearing for more than lecturing others on the authorities can be highly selec- hostile. No doubt they feel they that will revolutionise the United States their lives. TV footage on the virtues of tolerance and diversity. tive when it comes to the issue of are enforcing a principle. But is it and lead it to a “green” energy future, evening news shows frightened Had the country been EU-candi- diversity and tolerance? A point, always wise or even humane to do Kosova’s Prime Minister Hashim Thaci is children being evacuated on a date Croatia, it might have been of possible relevance to several so in practice? I have my doubts. working with his key ministers and advi- coach, faces pressed up against threatened with further delays to new states of the former Once you achieve, or endorse, sors to unveil the offer to private investors the glass. Another example of its membership application. Yugoslavia, is that much-lauded peace by legitimating the power for Kosova Re thermoelectric power plant. I am thankful that Kosova has such a posi- primitive ethnic passions let loose Serbia would have been instruct- “peace processes” often come on the ground of local nationalist tive role model for sustainable development in the Balkans? ed to mend its ways . with a hefty price tags – and with “community” bosses, you lose all and environmental responsibility, to look Not exactly. That footage came Yet the Serbian government, what can often look like the sub- your traction when it comes to up to in times of momentous decisions this week from the United arguably, already takes such dis- ordination of individual civil promoting multi-culturalism. such as this. Kingdom, south Belfast to be plays of crude bigotry seriously. rights to the collective rights of Anyone who fails to see that these That meddling conspiracy theorist more exact still – and the ethnic When a series of Hungarian- so-called “communities”. two phenomena are usually Perkins should come to Kosova and see how minority in question was a group Serbian spats threatened the In Northern Ireland, what this incompatible should ask the – American foreign policy is really done. of Roma from Romania. After peace in the villages of northern has meant in practice is the now former – Roma of Belfast. 14 • july 3 - 16, 2009 fun & directory

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1: Stable mate 14 15 16 728 2: On vacation, perhaps 3: Dole (out) 17 18 19 17 4: Slowly, to Mozart 5: Much of Cuba 20 21 22 83 5 6: Qualities of the conceited 7: Goes bad 23 24 25 26 7 49 8: On the house 9: Talks back to 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 7362 10: Bishops' realms 11: Lassoer's cord 35 36 37 38 19 5 67 12: FYI cousin 13: Naval post? 39 40 41 42 43 832 21: Galoot 25: Used to be 44 45 46 47 48 26: Monk's superior 39 27: Have a cow 49 50 51 52 28: Root in the stands 43 6 29: Small birds 53 54 30: Blind parts Medium 32: Swagger 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 33: Spine-tingling 34: Partner of drabs 795 65 66 67 37: Frequent Las Vegas money taker 59 68 69 70 40: Took the top off of 42: Stems (from) 98 7 71 72 73 45: Turn on the waterworks 47: Cattle poker 50: Pick of the crop 143Across 24: She may get sheared 51: Pasta and such 26: Narrations 53: 'Shogun' sash 52: Potato chips, in London 27 85 1: Cass Elliot, once 31: Answered with cheek 54: Easter preceder? 55: Harness race pace 5: Feudal laborers 35: Scrooge's exclamation 55: Copy editor's bane 56: Ranger Smith's cartoon 10: Spot of brandy 36: Top hat accompaniment 58: Minor offense nemesis 43 6 14: Overwhelmed 38: Runoff collector 65: Hit the ___ (get mad) 57: Breathing space 15: Greek gathering spot 39: ___ cheese 66: Razzle-dazzle 91416: Greek letter 41: Like old bread 67: Word before opera or dish 59: Sound on the rebound 17: ___-tat 43: Bombay garment 68: Shrek, e.g. 60: Abrupt bit of thunder 9518: Primary goal? 44: They're often preheated 69: Barber's work 61: Spelunker's milieu 19: Goes for 46: Percussive off-Broadway 70: Fleshy fruit 62: Roller coaster feature 20: Specs on a bridge hit 71: Even-steven 63 8 22: Quarter fraction 48: Sis or bro 72: Boozes 63: Buddhist leader 23: Cyclotron bit 49: Hardly a little angel 73: Stretch across 64: Sesame starter?

Hard Embassies and Liaison Offices in Prishtina American Danish German Saudia Arabian Address: "Nazim Hikmet" no. 30 Address: "Nene Teresa" no. 2 Adress: "Azem Jashanica" no. 17 Address: Dardania SU 7, building 2, 21 Arbëria/Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina 10000 Prishtina Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina #1 Phone: +381 (0) 38 549 516 Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 995 Phone: +381 (0) 38 254 500 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 549 203 9 Austrian Dutch Italian Address: "Ahmet Krasniqi" no. 22 Address:" Xhemal Berisha" no. 12 Address: "Azem Jashanica" no.5 Slovenian Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Velania, 10000 Prishtina Address: "Anton Ceta" no. 6 Phone: +381 (0) 38 244 925 5 638 1 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 224 61 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 284 Japanese Phone: +381 (0) 38 244 886 Finnish Address: "Rexhep Malaj" no. 43 75 6 Belgian Address: "Eduard Lir" no. 50 10000 Prishtina Swedish Address: "Taslixhe" I, 23 A Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 995 Address: "Ekrem Rexha" no. 6 10000 Pristina Prishtina Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 68 53Phone: +381 (0) 38 734 734 Phone: +381 (0) 38 223 775 Luxemburg Prishtina Address: "Metush Krasniqi" no. 14 Phone: +381 (0) 245 795 British French Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina 913 Phone: +381 (0) 38 226 787 Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 6 Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 67 Swiss Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Malaysian Address: "Adrian Krasniqi" no. 11 1 269 8 Prishtina Prishtina Address: "Bedri Shala" no. 48 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 254 700 Phone: +381 (0) 38 22 45 88 00 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 248 088 Phone: +381 (0) 38 243 467 8 Bulgarian Greek Turkish Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 12 Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 68 Norwegian Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 59 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Address: "Sejdi Kryeziu" no. 6 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 32 Prishtina Prishtina 10000 Prishtina Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 038 245 540 Phone: +381 (0) 38 243 013 Phone: +381 (0) 38 232 111 00 Phone: +381 (0) 38 226 044 Created by sudokunine.com

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M A R D S F R E S A M A M

463587192 954781632 A T O I A R O G A D E W A 254837916

S T P O S E T O V A T A R

281439675 786352149

T N E C S E S S A L G E Y E 319642785

957621483 132694758 E W E N O I 687915432

D E S S A S S T N U O C C A

748315269 495136287 R E W E S S L I A T H A B 193254678

I R A S E L A T S U E L B

392768514 678429513

B I S P M O T S S N E V O 478396521

615294738 321875964 S E H C R A T S R O R R E T 526178349

R O N I B O

129856347 547963821

O L L I D A C C E P O P Y T 831769254

Solution 863217495 P A O S T A L C E F O O R 576943821 942583167

(Reversed) E M O P E V A H S E R G O

834172956 219548376 N A P S S E P O T D E I T 765421893 timeout • july 3 - 16, 2009 15

he morning they return Tfrom their White Castle road trip, Harold and Kumar decide to go to Amsterdam because Harold doesn’t want to wait ten days to see Maria again. On the plane, Kumar lights up his new bong, the air marshals think it’s a bomb, and Harold and Kumar are arrested as terror- ists and sent to Guantanamo Bay. Ordered to fellate a guard, they manage to escape, make their way to Florida, and head for Texas to find Kumar’s ex- girlfriend’s fiancé, the well-con- nected Colton, and get him to intercede with Washington on Odyssea their behalf. Kumar still has a thing for Vanessa, the Feds are Bistro in hot pursuit, and the legal weed of Amsterdam seems a Friday long way away. Live Music with 20:00, 22:00 B.B Poqi, entrance fee 2 euro

Saturday Chess enthusiasts will be able to show off their skills at Duplex Lounge Odyssea Bistro in Pejton during their new morning play- presents two popular ing sessions scheduled every Saturday. Whoever would bands from Albania, like to participate can sign up and begin playing at Bojken Lako and The Odyssea Bistro this Saturday at 10am. This weekend’s Fish live, at their prizes for winners are an antique Inca vs. Spanish con- venue Wednesday quers chess board for first place, and a dinner for two at July 8 Odyssea Bistro for second place. For Reservations For reservations call 044 556 444 call 049 554 555 Sport Tennis Club Prishtina Tennis Club Prishtina is a part of the Tennis Federation of certified coaches or dropping by for a game with a desig- Kosovo. It’s the biggest tennis club in Kosovo, and was nated partner or a friend. The courts get busy, so make a founded back in 1985. Show your love for tennis with reservation at 038 221 870. another 200 members of the club by enjoying lessons by Visit www.tenniskosova.com for more info.

Hiking in Kosovo’s Mountains Get out of the cafés and explore the rugged and pristine beauty Kosovo has to offer with the group Hikingnjeri. Join dozens of locals and internationals who travel once a week to different natural loca- tions across the country, trek up beautiful mountains and enjoy a communal barbeque at the end. Your first time is free of charge, but a TIM preparedE byO UT one-year membership costs only 10 euro, and includes regular Shega updates. For this Sunday’s morning trip, email [email protected] A`Mula 16 • july 3 - 16, 2009 marketing