The Before, During, and After-Dinner Wine
S H E R RY The Before, During, and After-dinner Wine By Ed McCarthy and Mary Ewing-Mulligan MW n wine, as in literature, the classics endure. If you need proof, just consider Sh e r r y. The wines of the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry district, in the Andalucía region of southwestern Spain have been part of the world wine scene for more than 500 years, sometimes hugely popular and sometimes less so. Tod a y , Sh e r r y is on the rise again, appealing to a new generation of wine lovers. Sh e r r y is a fortified white wine, made by adding alcohol to dry wine. The complex mat- Iuration process for Sherry, and the practice of blending and sweetening some Sherries, creates many different styles of Sherry wine, ranging from pale, dry, crisp and relatively del- icate to rich, sweet, dark and very flavorful. Over the years, certain styles have been more popular than others; the lightest Sherry is currently gaining in sales at the expense of the sweeter and richer versions. Amazingly, all these styles of Sherry come mainly from one grape variety Ð the Palomino Fino (another grape, Pedro Ximenez, or “PX,” is part of the blend for the sweeter wines). Palomino thrives in the very dry, sunny, warm climate and the white, chalky soil (known locally as al b a r i z a ) of the Sherry region. Palomino produces neu- tral, low-acid wines—the perfect type of base wine for the almost mystical transformation that the Sherry region, and the Sherry process, wields.
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