The Contribution of South Korea's Public Diplomacy To

THE CONTRIBUTION OF SOUTH KOREA’S PUBLIC DIPLOMACY TO INDONESIA THROUGH KOREAN WAVE TO ENHANCE NATIONAL BRANDING: PROMOTING KOREAN BEAUTY BRANDS (2014-2017)

By RORO AYU JUNITA PRADINI 016201400153

A thesis presented to the Faculty of Humanities President University In partial fulfilment of the requirements for Bachelor Degree in International Relations Major in Diplomacy Studies

2018

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TABLE OF CONTENT

THESIS ADVISER RECOMMENDATION LETTER ...... i DECLARATION OF ORIGINALITY ...... ii PANEL OF EXAMINER APPROVAL SHEET ...... iii TABLE OF CONTENT ...... iv ABSTRACT ...... vi ABSTRAK ...... vii

ACKNOWLEDGMENT ...... viii

LIST OF TABLE ...... ix

LIST OF FIGURE ...... x

LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS ...... xi

CHAPTER I ...... 1

INTRODUCTION ...... 1

I.1. Background ...... 1

I.2. Problem of Identification ...... 5

I.3. Research Question ...... 7

I.4. Research Objective ...... 7

I.5 Significance of Study ...... 7

I.6. Theoretical Framework ...... 8

I.6.1. Soft Power ...... 9

I.6.2. Public Diplomacy ...... 11

I.6.3. Culture Diplomacy ...... 13

I.6.4. Nation Branding ...... 13

I.7. Scope and Limitation ...... 14

I.8. Research Methodology ...... 15

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I.8.1. Research Method ...... 15

I.8.2. Research Instrument ...... 16

I.9. Definition of Term ...... 17

I.10. Thesis Structure ...... 18

CHAPTER II ...... 20

LITERATURE REVIEW ...... 20

CHAPTER III ...... 28

SOUTH KOREA PUBLIC DIPLOMACY TO INDONESIA ...... 28

III.1. South Korea’s Public Diplomacy ...... 28

III.2. Korean Wave (Hallyu) ...... 31

III.2.1 Korean Popular Music ...... 33

III.2.2 Korean Drama ...... 35

III.2.3 Korean Beauty Brands ...... 37

III.3. South Korea and Indonesia Bilateral Relations ...... 38

III.3.1 Politic ...... 38

III.3.2 Economy ...... 40

III.3.3 Socio-Culture ...... 41

III.4.South Korea’s Public Diplomacy to Indonesia ...... 42

CHAPTER IV ...... 49

KOREAN WAVE AS A TOOL OF SOUTH KOREA’S PUBLIC DIPLOMACY TO PROMOTE KOREAN BEAUTY BRANDS ...... 49

IV.1. The Contribution of Korean Wave to Promote Korean Beauty Brands .... 49

IV.1.2. The Role of Hallyu Star in Increasing Korean Beauty Brands ...... 54

IV.2. The Rise of K-beauty Brands in Indonesia ...... 59

CHAPTER V ...... 63

CONCLUSION ...... 63

BIBLIOGRAPHY ...... 66

APPENDICES ...... 70

Abstract

“The Contribution of South Korea’s Public Diplomacy to Indonesia through Korean Wave to Enhance National Branding: Promoting Korean Beauty Brands (2014-2017)”

Public diplomacy is one way for a country to build relations, and improve their national image. Public diplomacy is used as a tool to change perception and point of view of a country towards other countries. Public diplomacy can be done by incorporating cultural elements. The abundant culture that owned by South Korea is become the asset for the Government of South Korea itself in the running of its political life including to Indonesia. The abundant culture owned by South Korea is converted as a tool by the Government of South Korea in achieving its national interests. The popularity of South Korea’s culture which currently becomes phenomenon in the world is called “Korean Wave” (Hallyu). Korean Waves have a lot of contribution and also give a lot of benefits for South Korea, for example is how Korean Wave gives the contribution to the success of South Korea build its good image internationally and give a lot of the benefits to South Korea itself. The author trying to analyse how South Korea explore its soft power through Korean Wave to gain a lot of benefits and also how Korean Wave able to enhance its reputation by using qualitative method and using soft power, public diplomacy, culture diplomacy, national branding as theoritical framework. The success of South Korea in enhancing its reputation not only give the impact on its relations with other countries. However, it also will impact on all its National products Korea itself, such as the Korean beauty brand.

Keyword: K-beauty, Public Diplomacy Korean Wave, Hallyu, Korean Beauty Brand, South Korea, Indonesia

Abstrak

“Kontribusi Diplomasi Publik Korea Selatan pada Indonesia melalui Gelombang Korea untuk Menaikan citra nasional: Mempromosikan Merek Kecantikan Korea (2014-2017)

Diplomasi publik adalah salah satu cara suatu negara untuk membangun hubungan, dan meningkatkan citra suatu bangsa. Diplomasi publik dijadikan alat untuk mengubah persepsi maupun pandangan suatu negara terhadap negara lain. Diplomasi publik dapat dilakukan dengan memasukkan unsur budaya. Kekayaan budaya yang dimiliki oleh Korea Selatan menjadi asset bagi pemerintah Korea Selatan dalam menjalankan diplomasi publiknya ke Indonesia. Kebudayaan yang dimiliki, diubah menjadi sebuah alat bagi pemerintah Korea Selatan dalam mencapai tujuan nasionalnya. Kepopuleran budaya Korea Selatan yang tengah menjadi fenomena disebut dengan Gelombang Korea (Hallyu). Gelombang Korea ini memberikan banyak sekali meberikan keuntungan, salah satunya keberhasilan Korea Selatan membangun citra baik negaranya di skala Internasional. Penulis mencoba menganalisis, bagaimana Korea Selatan mengeksplorasi soft power mereka melalui Gelombang Korea untuk memperoleh keuntungan yang sangat signifikan dan membangun reputasi mereka menggunakan metode kualitatif dan juga soft power, diplomasi publik, diplomasi budaya, national branding sebagai teori. Keberhasilan mengubah reputasi yang Selatan tidak hanya berdampak pada hubungannya dengan negara lain, akan tetapi juga berdampak terhadap produk nasionalnya sendiri, seperti produk kecantikan Korea.

Kata kunci :K-beauty, Diplomasi Publik, Gelombang Korea, Hallyu, Korea Selatan, Produk Kecantikan Korea, Indonesia

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ACKNOWLEDGMENT

I would like to say thousand thank you to Allah SWT who has given me a never-ending blessing. Thanks for the grace so that I can complete and finish this thesis for my college. I also want to say thank you to both my beloved Parents. My mom who always provide love and affection, who never stop giving advice and always wish me the best, thanks to my father who always work hard to provide a proper education to his children up to college. To my mom who always prays and gives spirit every day. Thank you for my brother Muhammad Raffa who always makes my day colourful. The gratitude and respect to my thesis advisor Ms. Isyana Adriani, who always guides, advises, and supports me, also to all International Relation Lectures of President University Mr. Teuku Rezasyah, Mr. Hendra Manurung, Mr. Riski Baskoro, Mr. Endi Haryono, Mr. Anak Agung Banyu Perwita, Mr. Bustanul Arufun, Ms. Natasya Kusumawardani, Mr. Nugraha Jayapradja who shared their knowledge to me. I would like to give my deepest gratitude for all my best friends Steven Wijaya, Shelly Yani Rahman, Rima Adisti Usman, Vanessa Azilina, Novia Sella, Eha Julaeha, Siti Aminah, Lia Ayuva, Hikmah Mulyadi, Laeliyah, Riri Pratiwi Burhanuddin, Isaura Dhean, Husna Amiliansyah, who have fully supported me and accompanied me throughout the writing process of this thesis. The purpose of this thesis is to complete one of the requirement of President University in pursuing my bachelor degree, but there are other important purposes for me, this thesis is not only for my graduation requirements but also can be useful for me and others. The struggle that I did during the process of doing this thesis taught me many lessons for the future, taught me to be more patient, diligent and discipline in living anything in this life. To conclude last but not least I would like to thank you everybody that I mentioned earlier and I do really hope this thesis can be useful for me and others. Cikarang, March 2018

Roro Ayu Junita Pradini

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List of Table

CHAPTER III

Table III.1 FDI of South Korea to Indonesia……………...…………………..40

Table III.2 Korean Drama Rating……………………………………………...46

CHAPTER IV

Table IV.1 Bilateral Trade between South Korea and Indonesia…………….. 60

Table IV.2 Korean Beauty Brands Market in Indonesia 2014 -2017....…….... 61

Table IV.3 Korean Beauty Products Market Sales in Indonesia 2014-2017…. 62

LIST OF FIGURE

CHAPTER I

Figure 1.1 Researcher theoretical framework……………………………………..9

Figure I.2 Anholt’s National Branding Framework……….……….………...….14

CHAPTER III

Figure 3.1 Lotte Duty Free in Jakarta…………………………………………. .47

CHAPTER IV

Figure IV.1 Jun Ji Hyun as Cheon Song Yi in My Love from The Star………...50

Figure. IV.2 Market Size of South Korea World Wide…………………..……...52

Figure IV.3 Korean Beauty Products Mostly Used…………………………….. 53

Figure IV.4 Song Hye Gyo as Brand Ambassador Laneige……………………..55

Figure IV.5 Song Jong Ki as Brand Ambassador Laneige……………………....55

Figure IV.6 Park Shin Hye as Brand Ambassador Mamonde……………….…..56

Figure IV.7 Lee Min Ho as Brand Ambassador Innisfree……………………….56

Figure IV.8 Bae Suzy as Brand Ambassador the Face Shop…………………….57

Figure IV.9 Jun Ji Hyun as Brand Ambassador Labo………………………...….57

Figure IV.10 Bae Yong Jun as Brand Ambassador the Face Shop……………....58

Figure IV. 11. South Korea’s National Brand based on Simon Anholt’s Theoretical Framework…………………………………………………………………...…....63

LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS

GDP : Gross Domestic Product

FDI : Foreign Direct Investment

K-pop : Korean Popular

K-drama : Korean Drama

K-beauty : Korean Beauty

KOCCA : The Korea Creative Content Agency

KCIA : Korean Cosmetic Association

KOCIS : Korea Cultural Information Service

KOSIS : Korea Statistical Information Service

KPTA : Korea Pharmaceutical Traders Association

KTO : Korean Tourism Organizations

MCST : Ministry of Cultural, Sport & Tourism

MFDS : Ministry of Food and Drug Safety

MoU : Memorandum of Understanding

MOFAT : Ministry of Foreign Affairs

PCNB : The Presidential Council on Nation Branding

USD : U.S Dollar

CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION

I.1. Background

In this era, everyone is trying to change people’s point of view. People naturally learn from what they see and try to understand something what they like. However, this condition makes the people are influencing each other. In essence, people will be mostly influenced from the closest people around them. They learn culture, get attitudes, and see perspective from the closest people around them.

The process of influencing people, and sharing information, are what the people normally do naturally in life. In much larger scale, with more people are involved in the process of transforming ideas, and it is going with no border; we see it is happening in the world today as what people called as the globalization era. Globalization1, a topic of international relations, is a phenomenon in the world today. All particular countries are influencing others and use its values as media to attract and shape perceptions of people. In general, we see that globalization is a situation that all people from any countries are able to share information, share what they have, and even to influence the other people from any parts of the world, any countries, with no borders. However, the globalization gives benefits in one hand, and problems in another hand.

In one case, globalization may lead the transformation of cultures, perspectives from one place to other place. The cultures are now not only limited in its origins, but these also can be existed in the area where the people want it to exist; and it can go across the countries. The cultures play a very important role in the process of development of nations. It makes perception of people and it gives influences that people may follow.

1“Globalization is the process of world shrinkage, of distances getting shorter, things moving closer. It pertains to the increasing ease with which somebody on one side of the world can interact, to mutual benefit, with somebody on the other side of the world.” Thomas Larsson, in his book The Race to the Top: The Real Story of Globalization (2001). Retrieved from: Al-Rohan, Nayef, R.F (2006). Definitions of Globalization: A Comprehensive Overview and a Proposed Definition. Program on the Geopolitical Implications of Globalization and Transnational Security. Geneva Centre for Security Policy, p.3.

Globalization make technology and information growth rapidly and changed every aspect of each country living. This thing is becoming the main factor of the changing of diplomacy system in every country so that make soft power as important element in diplomacy, one of them is public diplomacy. Public diplomacy as a tool of soft power can be used to gain the national interest of every country.

Public diplomacy is used as media to promote and shape perceptions of people about specific countries. According to Joseph Nye, public diplomacy can be linked with power as the ability to influence the behavior of others to get the outcomes one wants.2 The ones, which are running public diplomacy, approach other people and persuade them on how they will see some reality of it. It may also assumed as efforts to make others see like how they see, think like how they think, and then to make the others attempt to be like them. Public diplomacy is about “branding” a nation for global societies. There are many parties involved in the process of conducting public diplomacy, both internal and external, such as the people, the government’s institutions, non-governmental organization (henceforth referred to NGO’s), media, companies, the embassies, economy, politic, culture, etc.

Public diplomacy is very essential subject in international relations field, this research is going to focus on how the effect of the Korean Wave as a media of public diplomacy of South Korea to other countries, in case of public diplomacy to Indonesia.

South Korea has undergone dramatic changes over the last sixty years.3 After experiencing economic crisis as the impact from the Korean War (1950-1953), South Korea tried to fix the economic crisis. The country developed from an agricultural society ruined by the Korean War into one of the top fifteen economies in the world.4 At present, South Korea has been transformed from

2 Nye, Joseph S. (2009). Soft Power: The Means to Success In World Politics. New York: PublicAffairs. 3 Hermanns, Heike. National Role Conceptions in the ‘Global Korea’ Foreign Policy Strategy. The Korean Journal of International Studies. Vol. 11, No. 1 (June 2013), 55-82. 4 Jojin, V. J. (2015). Globalization, National Identity and Foreign Policy: Understanding Global Korea. p.12.

2 developing countries into the developed countries. The rapid growth of the South Korea’s economy make South Korea called "Miracle of Han River".

Korean Wave (henceforth referred to as Hallyu) has an important role for South Korea to spread out its public diplomacy.5 Korean Wave is not simply as a kind of entertainment in South Korea, but also becoming the connector of bilateral relations between countries since 2002.6 As a country with developed technology and economy, South Korea was succeeding to develop their industrial sector rapidly, especially entertainment industry (showbiz), such as Korean popular (hence forth referred to as K-pop), Korean drama (henceforth referred to K- drama), film, and food. The popularity of Korean Wave gave many opportunities to South Korea significantly. The success of Korean Wave is as a form of the cooperation between the government and individual. Dramas and show programs produced by broadcasting media, as well as movies, and K-pop idols which have been introduced as high-profit business items by such private constituencies as broadcasting stations, entertainment companies, drama and film producers are, after all, related to the economic profit of the private constituencies.7

The efforts of South Korea to integrate its culture within public diplomacy written in their foreign policy which known as “Global Korea” created by the former President of South Korea, Lee Myung Bak in 2008. The “Global Korea” policy intends to introduce the new brand of South Korea as the first step to gain the national branding of South Korea positively in international core. The program of “Global Korea” was recorded into 10 agendas, such as adopting Korean Wave program, developing art and technology of the state, and maintaining cultural industry and tourism. The policy of “Global Korea” through Korean Wave was documented into the Diplomatic White Paper in 2008. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade (hence forth referred to as the MOFAT) of South Korea was explained in the Diplomatic White Paper that the government was introducing the Korean culture to other countries to encourage public diplomacy through offering

5 Cho, Yun Young. “Public Diplomacy and South Korea’s Strategies”, in the Korean Journal of International Studies. Volume 10, No. 2 (December 2012), 275-296. 6 Sue, Lee Jin, “The Korean Wave: The Seoul of Asia,” The Elon Journal of Undergraduate Research in. Communications, Vol.2, No.1 (Spring 2011): 90 7 ibid

3 television station and documentary video that define Korea and its culture.8 In 2009, President Lee started to publish the National Branding campaign with the establishment of The Presidential Council on Nation Branding (hence forth referred to as PCNB). President Lee was also said in his speech:9

“[It is] extremely important for Korean people to earn the respect of the international community. [...] Korea is one of the most advanced nations technologically. Still, the first images that come to mind to foreigners are those of strikes and street demonstrations. If our nation wants to be 'labeled' as a developed country, it needs [...] to improve its nation brand and its reputation significantly. Korea's national brand value is only 30 per cent of our economic power... I will upgrade our national brand value to that of an advanced nation during my term of office.”

The vision of PCNB itself to utilizing International status and national self- esteem as the foundation to create a reliable and dignified Korea. The strategy of PCNB consist of expanding contribution to international society, disseminate the value of traditional culture, strengthen global communication and pursue nationwide integration.

The Ministry of Cultural, Sport & Tourism (hence forth referred to as the MCST) built the Korea Cultural Information Service (hence forth referred to as KOCIS) in 1971. The objective of KOCIS is to bridge the promotion activities of South Korea. In 2009, KOCIS also built the Korean Cultural Centre that aimed to help foreign society to learn Korean culture.

The increasing number of Korean Wave” lovers in some countries started since the popularity of drama “What is Love All About” in 1998 and followed by the drama “Winter Sonata in 2002.” By this reason, then many people was curious to visit the place that use as the background of the scene of Korean Drama. It is like what Mark Leonard mentioned before about Public Diplomacy:

8 South Korea, government. (2008). Diplomatic White paper on: World Trends and Korea’s Foreign Policy. Seoul, Korea: Ministry of Foreign Affairs. 9 Jojin, V.J. (2015), Globalization, National Identity and Foreign Policy: Understanding. Global Korea. p.12.

“One of the purpose of public diplomacy is to evolve the relations between countries which seen from the educational scope, the rate of the foreign arrival based for educational purpose or toured. “

The relation between Indonesia and South Korea was established in 1973. Indonesia has been an important trade partner for South Korea, especially in foreign direct investment (hence forth referred to as FDI). The bilateral relations between both countries have been gaining a greater momentum since the last ten years. The two countries established Joint Commission chaired by its Foreign Ministers on 9 June 2006. This is further strengthened by the signing of "The Joint Declaration on Strategic Partnership to Promote Friendship and Cooperation”.

The bilateral relations between South Korea and Indonesia make Indonesia the site of South Korea to gain its national interest, especially in promoting its own products, such as Korean Beauty (henceforth referred to K-beauty) by using Hallyu.10 It will be easily for South Korea to promote their own brand product due to the high number of Indonesia’s young people who love Hallyu. The popularity of Hallyu can be seen from the existence of Korean drama. Korean drama re- popular in Indonesia since the appearance of drama “My Love from the Star” in 2013 that published by Rajawali Citra Televisi (henceforth referred to RCTI) in 2014. The success of “My Love from the Star” was proven by the appearance of Indonesian drama “Kau yang berasal dari Bintang” in 2014.

I.2. Problem Identification

The intensively practiced public diplomacy is now utilized by countries to influence the others and securing its foreign policy objectives. Public diplomacy performs beyond the government to government, and government to non- governmental individuals and institutions. There are some different perceptions that are represented by individuals and organizations to add the official government’s positions. A successful public diplomacy is put on how governments engage people as international audiences that builds relationship

10 Korean Culture and Information Service (KOCIS). (n.d.). Korean Beauty Empire : Korea.net : The official website of the Republic of Korea. Retrieved from http://www.korea.net/NewsFocus/Column/view?articleId=137556

5 based on trust and credibility. The end goals of public diplomacy are to inform and influence audiences abroad, build mutual dialogue and long-term relationships, and present an unbiased representation of the country’s policies and society.11

South Korea has long history of trying to use public diplomacy and other instruments of soft power to secure its foreign policy. According to the Diplomatic White Paper of South Korea on 2008, public Diplomacy has been practiced since 2008 by the establishment of Global Korea Foreign Policy.12

One of the striking themes in contemporary South Korean foreign policy is a strong emphasis on achieving Seonjinguk (advanced nation) status in international affairs, as articulated in the slogan 'Global Korea'.13 The establishment of the Global Korea foreign policies by Lee Myung Bak had a strong emphasis on national image and international reputation. Based on Diplomatic White paper on 2008 Global Korea foreign policies include:

1. The global promotion of Korean martial art; 2. Creation of a service of international volunteers (World Friends Korea); 3. To adopt a 'Korean Wave' program.

In particular, in his inauguration address Lee Myung Bak laid out the beginnings of a vision for South Korea as a responsible and contributing member of the international community committed to “global diplomacy” and “the global movement for peace and development,” based on “universal principles of democracy and market economics.14 The Global Korea strategy includes the aim to cultivate South Korea’s soft power and to bring about a qualitative improvement in the Republic of Korea’s global standing” as well as “enhancing

11 South Korea, government. (2008). Diplomatic White paper on: World Trends and Korea’s Foreign Policy. Seoul, Korea: Ministry of Foreign Affairs. 12 Snow, Nancy. (2016). Korea’s public diplomacy. Routledge Handbook of Public Diplomacy. 13Jojin, V.J. (2015), Globalization, National Identity and Foreign Policy: Understanding Global Korea‟. p.12. 14 “Together We Shall Open A Road to Advancement,” President Lee Myung-bak’s Inaugural Address, February 25, Retrieved from: 2008, http://www.korea.net/news/Issues/issueDetailView.asp?board_no=18994

6 the value of Korea’s state brand globally.”15 Coinciding with the growing popularity of Korean TV-programs and pop music in East Asia and further afield, foreign policy makers and commentators discovered the value of Korea’s soft power.16

South Korea is not the first country that exporting it’s entertained to abroad. However, India, Japan and United State was the countries that exporting its entertaining to the world before South Korea, India exports its Bollywood movie, Japan exports its anime program and United State exports its Hollywood movies. South Korea has been making extensive efforts to promote its soft power assets. South Korea has abundant of soft power resources and the realization of public diplomacy of South Korea always go together with the development of their cultural identity use Korean Wave. The cultural identity has many contributions to enhance the national branding of South Korea in the world.

I.3. Research Questions

 How did South Korea’s government use its Public diplomacy in promoting Korean beauty brands utilize in Indonesia through Korean Wave during the period of 2014-2017?

I.4. Research Objective

This research is to understand the role of the South Korea’s Public Diplomacy through Korean Wave in Indonesia.

I.5. Significance of Study

This research provides information about of South Korea government’s public diplomacy through its culture in Indonesia. This research allows the people to recognize soft power diplomacy which is not only involves governments but also people. However, it will strengthen the existence of people as the international actors. Through this research can attract the people to learn more

15 Cheong Wa Dae, Government Policy Goals. Retrieved from: http://english.president.go.kr/government/goals/goals.php 16 ibid

7 about international relations and public diplomacy as their role strengthened, as international actors. International relations are very prominent for people to understand. The roles of people in international relations today are not only as audiences who may not practically contribute to the international relations. They have more authority to be involved in the process of conducting relationship among countries. People should know and understand about this substance and their roles in international levels.

The other aspect is culture. This research shows that the cultural value is very prominent in international relations, as the identity of nations, and also as media in promoting the country. People will see that culture can give benefits to country, it makes perceptions, it gives influences, and it potentially keeps the security stability of countries.

The era of globalization has made people learn cultures of many countries. It makes the use of public diplomacy is becoming more important in international relations. Public diplomacy provides information for people to getting known about specific countries.

I.6. Theoretical Framework

As one of the emerging economic countries, South Korea is attempting to spread its power widely. With many people knows South Korea very well by its culture, the cultural values that described through its culture give benefits for the country to make the people from outside South Korea to know about it.

The development in industrial sectors, perform a strong role in shaping the image of the country. With those, South Korea has three important sectors that help the country to spread the influence of it, which are in economy, cultural values, and industrial development. Those sectors may take part of the government agenda of public diplomacy.

Soft Power

Nation Branding

Public Culture Diplomacy Diplomacy

Figure I.1: Researcher theoretical framework

I.6.1 Soft Power

Power has very important role for all countries. Power can be described as an ability to influence the other actors’ perspective, decisions and actions. According to Joseph S. Nye, the term power refers to the action to manipulate and influence the other actors’ decisions and actions.17

According to Joseph Nye, there are two types of power, which are hard power and soft power. Based on Nye, hard power means the ability to get others to act in ways that are contrary to their initial preferences and strategies.18 The use of military ability and coercive approach are how the hard power explained in practical.19

17 Nye, Joseph S. (2009). Soft Power: The Means To Success In World Politics. New York: Public Affairs. 18 Nye, Joseph S. (2009). Soft Power: The Means To Success In World Politics. New York: Public Affairs. 19 ibid

On the other hand, soft power is defined as process to induce by using attraction and persuasion. According to Joseph Nye, soft power is “getting others to want the outcomes that you want.” By transferring ideas, countries will find their common interests that possibly lead them to establish cooperation in many sectors. The use of soft power impacts to almost all particular aspects in country, especially to people, economy, social, cultures, and many others.

The use of soft power is much cheaper, means as the countries need to invest their money to support them in transferring their influences. Countries need to strengthen their concepts, ideas, roles, values, and position before they start to play concept of soft power. It is not the use of soft power does not need much money to operate, but here, countries are investing their money for themselves. For example, the concept of soft power encourages the countries to be more care to their home condition, realizing that the condition at home can be very prominent for them abroad. Countries need to make a good condition at home in order to make such a good perceptions of people abroad.

The use of soft power tends to be easier to examine that it is perhaps in a little need of policy push, being preexistent, or too difficult to achieve because of local interests and cultures, deny its political attraction20. Because the use of soft power is nearly not affecting damages, chaos, and friction, it is very pleasurable for global people’s environment and for country to use. Soft power does not physically injure anybody, any government, any institutions, but it comes by using ideas, lead to the condition with new kind of war, war of ideas. This concept prefers to use values, cultures, customs, society, and policies, to persuade others, and to engage almost all particular aspects in a country.

In contrast with hard power, soft power underlined the impossibility of war and military force, but through cooperation and the power of ideas. The

20Gray, C. S., & Army War College (U.S.). (2011). Hard power and soft power: The utility of military force as an instrument of policy in the 21st century. Strategic Studies Institute.

transferring ideas from one country to another are the way to achieve their own national interests. Some common historical background and cultural values can be used as tools in exchanging ideas from one to another. According to Joshua Kurlantzick, anything outside the military and security realm, including not only popular culture and public diplomacy but also more coercive economic and diplomatic levers like aid and investment, and participating in multicultural organizations.21.

For example, one of South Korea’s most important soft powers is its advance in cutting edge Information Technology. Korea is frequently referred to as being the most wired country in the world, having a penetration rate greater than 100 percent for wireless broadband access.22 The number of operating mobile phones also outnumbers the population, and it is nearly unheard of in Korea to lose cellular phone reception.23 Frequent usage of social networking sites has further empowered Internet users, and this wide access to information that crosses borders gives Korea a preeminent soft power tool with its advanced information technology.24

I.6.2. Public Diplomacy

Public diplomacy is a process of branding countries to foreign audiences, neighboring countries, and over continent relations. This process of branding will build perceptions of people, and the process can utilizes the use of media, cultural and historical background of countries, as tools to attract people involved in public diplomacy’s process. Public diplomacy is one of efforts to introduce to the others about cultures, societies, values, ideology and many other things. According to Joseph Nye, public diplomacy can be linked with power as the ability to influence the behavior of others to get the outcomes

21Kurlantzick, Joshua. (2007). Charm Offensive: How China’s Soft Power is Transforming The World. Yale University Press, 22 South Korea hits 100% mark in wireless broadband. (2012, July 23). Retrieved from https://www.cnet.com/news/south-korea-hits-100-mark-in-wireless-broadband/ 23 “Mobile Fee Disclosure,” KBS News, September 7, 2012. Retrieved from: .http://news.kbs.co.kr/all/2012/09/07/2532154.html. 24 Sam, Mo Young. Jung-He, Song. Moore, Dewey. “Korea’s Public Diplomacy : A New Initiative for the Future.” The Assan Institute Journal. Vol. 43. (2012)

one wants.25 The end goals of public diplomacy are to inform and influence audiences abroad, build mutual dialogue and long-term relationships, and present an unbiased representation of the country’s policies and society.26 Public diplomacy can foster more favorable attitudes overseas, and even promote values while inspiring debate over ideologies.27 Public diplomacy is used as tools to shape people’s opinion about one specific country.28 Public diplomacy can be used as the strategic communications to develop a set of simple themes of political and advertising campaign.

However, the best promotion cannot result to the success of selling unpopular product. It all depends on the real actions taken by government. The government must undertake policies and actions in resolving the issues both internal and external, and not leaving the problems to public diplomacy. The branding process of a country is started from how the government itself takes actions in solving problem, until the use of public diplomacy in conducting good communications and spreading information to others.

In cooperating with others, the countries need to influence their partners in order to achieve their own national interests. For that, the theory of power can be said as what the countries need in their way of inducing others. The use of hard power and soft power are the examples of how countries are able to transfer their influences to others in many ways, both in hard pressure or soft treatment. Public Diplomacy, as a new way to approach the others, explained by Joseph S. Nye, is used by many countries to be engaged with world society. Public Diplomacy is assessed as an effective way realizing that there is no need any war in its process

South Korea sells its cultures in illustrating the portraits of the country to foreign audiences.29 South Korea is given a rich cultural heritage, an ancient

25 Nye, Joseph S. (2009). Soft Power: The Means to Success In World Politics. New York: Public Affairs. 26 ibid 27 Ibid 28 Ibid 29How Korean culture stormed the world. (2018, April 22). Retrieved from http://www.scmp.com/news/asia/article/1094145/how-korean-culture-stormed-world

civilization, an innovative and entrepreneurial spirit and a dynamic economy that operate within the structure of a secular ethos and a vital democracy.

I.6.3. Cultural Diplomacy

Cultural Diplomacy may best be described as a course of actions, which are based on and utilize the exchange of ideas, values, traditions and other aspects of culture or identity, whether to strengthen relationships, enhance socio-cultural cooperation, and promote national interests and beyond.30 Cultural diplomacy can be practiced by the public sector, private sector or civil society.31 Therefore, the pattern of cultural diplomacy between Nations can occur between anyone as the actor, where the main goals and objectives of cultural diplomacy was influencing public opinion as well as in the national or international level. The country is able to use cultural diplomacy as a medium and as a giver of its identity in terms of achieving the national interest which is the purpose of the implementation of the foreign politic

South Korea tried to use the Korean Wave as the media of public diplomacy. Korean Wave is refers to the spread of the Korean culture throughout the world or the affection of Korean culture. Korean Wave helps the government to promote the Korean tradition, and its culture identity to the world.

Cultural diplomacy is an effective way to influence other countries. Art and culture is one of the elements of soft power that can support relations between countries. Arts and culture also give the contribution to construct the identity of the nation.

I.6.4 National Branding

According to Simon Anholt, in his book “Places: Identity, Image and reputation” stated that countries are remembered for their action, not what they say. Therefore, by turning a country into a better country will create a

30 Culturaldiplomacy.org | what is Cultural Diplomacy? | Institute for Cultural Diplomacy. (2009). Retrieved from http://www.culturaldiplomacy.org/index.php?en_culturaldiplomacy 31 ibid

better reputation. Communication is clearly inadequate to act as an instrument to create a change in national images. Even effectively implemented policies alone would not be enough to correct misperception of foreign publics toward a country. He stated that in order for a country to enhance its nation brand, a country should have substance, a strategy and symbolic action.

“Subtance must be coupled with strategy and frequent symbolic action if it is to result in an enhanced reputation.”32 Anholt’s nation branding framework in enhancing a country’s nation brand can be seen in the figure below.

Strategy + Symbolic Action = Enhance Reputation

Figure I.2: Anholt’s National Branding Framework

Simon Anholt defined that in order to have a strategy, it is important to know who a nation is and where is and where it stand today (both in reality and according to foreign perception).33 Through that knowledge, a country will set their goals and how to achieve it.34

I.7. Scope and Limitation

South Korea is an emerging economic country which only focuses on soft power approaches by conducting public diplomacy. South Korea attempts to attract the foreign attention and brand a positive image of the country in more persuasive way. With its culture, the efforts to find new partner from Eastern of Asia, especially South East Asian countries, become more real.

This research will be much more focus the contribution of the Korean Wave to Indonesia in strengthening the bilateral relations between the two countries especially in shaping Indonesian people perceptions about South

32 Anholt. Simon. (2010). Place: Identity, Image and Reputation. Palgrave Macmillan: London. 33 Nye. Joseph. S. (1999). Redefining the National Interest. Foreign Affairs. (P.66-70). 34 Ibid.

Korea and also its contribution to promote beauty brands of South Korea during 2014 until 2017. During 2014 until 2017, Korean Wave was achieving the top of the popularity since the appearing of the some popular dramas, such as My Love from the Star, Descendant of the Sun, and Goblin and also some popular idol group such as Bangtan Boys (henceforth referred to BTS), Blackpink, and EXO.

Indonesia, as the largest country in Southeast Asia region and also emerges in economic, is a potential partner for South Korea to cooperate with. The close relationship of both countries in past makes the possibility to establish a strategic bilateral cooperation between the two countries is present.

This research limits to the roles of South Korea in performing Public Diplomacy activities, in case of Korean Wave to Indonesia in strengthening bilateral relations of both countries especially in increasing the sales of beauty product of South Korea. The Public Diplomacy conducted by the Korean Wave is much helping in the process of transferring ideas, building images, exchanging cultures and societies, from the South Korea to Indonesia.

I.8 Research Methodology

I.8.1 Research Methods

Research is a process of collecting, analyzing and interpreting information to answer questions. In social science research usually conducted based on qualitative procedures or people may called as Qualitative Method research. Research is requiring more than skills, conducted by the way of thinking and examining the part of specific topic. The research is going to be more systemic in examining and observing, in order to answer the research questions and the objective of the research. This research was conducted with Qualitative method, is interpretations of concerning points with good understanding of meanings and accurate observation of phenomena. Qualitative research is efforts

15 to prove a target audience’s perceptions, which oriented by specific topics or issues. The strong point of qualitative research is its ability in presenting detail descriptions of how the people experience and assessment related to the topic issues. The characters of Qualitative research can be seen from the aims of the research that relate to understanding of social life’s aspects. The Qualitative research tends to describe in words rather than use numbers in analyzing data. The purpose of this research is to provide information related to social science, especially which related to international relations. In this research, the theory explained by experts will be associated with phenomena, cases, conflicts and issues which are happening in international relations field. Researcher is collecting information that related to topic issues, both from journals and books, which can be guidance in making the analysis.

I.8.2 Research Instrument In this research, the Qualitative method is strengthened by information and data, whether primary data and secondary data, to analyze the phenomenon that becomes the topic of research. The primary and secondary data are combined to support the analysis of the research. One of prominent aspects of this research is the use of literature as the basic of research. Through library research, by collecting books from library and using internet as media to get the sources, the literature from experts and researchers are collected. Not only citing literatures like journals, books, and reports, but also by exercising the information from official website and media as secondary data.

I.9. Definition of Term

Globalization

Globalization is a condition when the people are connecting to each other in much simpler way; shortening the distances, abbreviating time, and creating a new globalized world.35

Power

Power means the ability to influence the others through several actions. Power has played important roles in all aspects of human civilizations, in economy, politic, and social. Power can be described as ability to manipulate the other actors’ decisions and actions.36

Soft Power

Soft power, contrary with hard power, is ability of countries to make the others want what the outcomes one wants, by introducing, approaching and convincing the others in more subtle.37

Public Diplomacy

Public diplomacy is a vehicle for dissemination of ideas, interests, concepts, and the approaches that define foreign policy and the defense of the national interest as further bilateral relationship and policy in multilateral forum.38

Culture Diplomacy Culture diplomacy is the linchpin of public diplomacy for it is in cultural activities that a nation’s idea of itself is best represented.39

35Al-Rohan, Nayef, R.F (2006). Definitions of Globalization: A Comprehensive Overview and a Proposed Definition. Program on the Geopolitical Implications of Globalization and Transnational Security. Geneva Centre for Security Policy, p.3. 36Nye. Joseph. S. (2009). Soft Power: The Means To Success In World Politics. New York: Public Affairs. 37 ibid 38 Nye. Joseph. S. (2009). Soft Power: The Means To Success In World Politics. New York: Public Affairs. 39 U.S Department of State Cultural Diplomacy (2006).The Linchpin of Public Diplomacy Paper.

National Branding National Branding explained when the countries increasingly employ public relations firms and techniques of brand marketing to build cohesive images for their nation.40

Korean Wave Korean wave or Hallyu is a term now widely used to refer to the popularity of Korean entertainment and culture across Asia and other parts of the world.41

Korean Beauty Brands A name to categorize the South Korean influence upon our own skincare routines and the epic product imports from the country itself.42

I.10 Thesis Structure

Chapter I - Introduction

This very first chapter introduces readers about the topic that being researched, reason of the research, and how the research contributes to an understanding of arguments for the study are presented with a literature or study that strengthen and substantiate the arguments for the study presented. There is also an explanation on how the research was conducted.

Chapter II – Literature Review

In this chapter provides the overview of previous research on library anxiety, as well as academic library use problem that is related to this phenomenon. One of prominent aspects of this research is the use of literature as

40 Teslik Lee, Hudson: Nation Branding explained. Retrieved from : https://www.cfr.org/backgrounder/nation-branding-explained 41 Korean Culture and Information Service (KOCIS). (n.d.). Hallyu (Korean Wave) : Korea.net : The official website of the Republic of Korea. Retrieved from http://www.korea.net/AboutKorea/Culture-and-the-Arts/Hallyu 42 10 Step Routines To Snail Slime Serums - What Exactly Is K-Beauty? (2017, November 28). Retrieved from https://www.elle.com/uk/beauty/skin/beauty-tips/a25415/k-beauty-what-is-it- korean-beauty-10-step-beauty-cleansing-skincare/

18 the basic of research. Through library research, by collecting books from library and using internet as media to get the sources, the literature from experts and researchers are collected

Chapter III – South Korea Public Diplomacy to Indonesia

In this chapter explain how South Korea conduct its public diplomacy. As one of the country that uses public diplomacy in their foreign policy, South Korea proposes public diplomacy as the tool to build its identity in international core. The author wants to explain in this chapter about the implementation of South Korea’s public diplomacy in other countries and its connection to Korea’s culture identity development.

Chapter IV – Analysis of Korean Wave as a Tool of South Korea’s Public Diplomacy to promote Korean Beauty Brands

In responding the data on the previous chapter, the researcher identifies and interprets the major findings of South Korea’s Public Diplomacy. The researcher presents an analysis about

- The contribution of Korean Wave in Promoting Korean Beauty Brands - How Hallyu stars being brand ambassadors to Korean beauty products has boost sale of Korean beauty brands.

Chapter V – Conclusion and Recommendation

This chapter is a conclusion of the research. It includes the answer to the statement of problem on what challenges and opportunities for South Korea in implementing its public diplomacy through Korean Wave. There is also recommendation that South Korea shall maximize in promoting its public diplomacy in Indonesia.

CHAPTER II

LITERATURE REVIEW

In this chapter provides the overview of academic library use problem that is related to this phenomenon. One of prominent aspects of this research is the use of literature as the basic of research. Through library research, by collecting books from library and using internet as media to get the sources, the literature from experts and researchers are collected.

This chapter will review on seven literatures from some books and journals in regard with the title and objectives of this research and will consist of:

1. “Diplomatic Style and Foreign Policy : A Case Study of South Korea” by Jeffrey Robertson (2016) 2. “Korea’s Public Diplomacy” by Nancy Snow (2016). 3. “The New Public Diplomacy: Soft Power in International Relations” by Jen Melissen (2007). 4. “Nation Branding: Concepts, Issues, Practice” by Keith Dinnie (2008). 5. “Public Diplomacy and South Korea’s Strategies” by Yun Young Cho, in the Korean Journal of International Studies. Volume 10, No. 2 (December 2012), 275-296. 6. “Diplomatic Processes and Cultural Variations: The Relevance of Culture in Diplomacy” by Wilfried Bolewsky, in the Whitehead Journal of Diplomacy and International Relations”. Volume 1, No. 1. (2008). 7. “Reframing Cultural Diplomacy: The Instrumentalization of Culture under the Soft Power Theory” by Mariano Martín Zamorano, in Culture Unbound Journal. Volume 8, 2016: 166–186.

1. “Diplomatic Style and Foreign Policy: A Case Study of South Korea” by Jeffrey Robertson, published by Routledge Taylor & Francis Group, 2016.

The author of this book tries to analyze the diplomatic style of South Korea, so that the diplomatic style itself is able to influence foreign policy of South Korea. Style plays important role in categorization and communication, it comprises essential components of the practitioner’s tacit knowledge which contributes to the meditations of the universalism and particularism.43 Based on this book, the mediation of the particularism and universalism was founded to be particularly significant in the context of diplomatic studies.44 The diplomatic style provides the analytical insight to a state foreign policy and importantly highlights phenomena of policy relevance. The book explores how South Korea’s diplomatic style – which has a tendency towards emotionalism, and is affected by the status, generational change, cosmopolitan, and estrangement from international society – can be a guide to understanding South Korea’ contemporary foreign policy.45 In addition, it is also explain the importance of the diplomatic style into the changing of the result of the diplomacy that has been done before. It is related to the situation when the South Korea changed its diplomacy style to the culture considered that the development of Korean culture (Korean Wave) was increasing nowadays.

2. “Korea’s Public Diplomacy” by Nancy Snow, published by Routledge Handbook of Public Diplomacy, 2016.

Public diplomacy has become more popular both in theory and in practice all over the world. Due to globalization, and technology

43 Robertson, Jeffrey.(2016). Diplomatic Style and Foreign Policy: A case study of South Korea. Routledge Taylor & Francis Group. 44 ibid 45 ibid

developments particularly in the communications field, public diplomacy has become a must-have in the foreign policy toolbox of every country. This book tries to describe how South Korea conducts its public diplomacy. Korea was very late to “officially launch” its public diplomacy policies in 2010; but the rapid evolution of the policies to catch up with the latest trends in the field has been noteworthy.46 In this book was mentioned that the history of South Korea’s public diplomacy reflects the “bballi bballi” culture which means quickly or hurry.47 This is one of the first Korean phrases foreigners get to learn when they come to Korea.48 The most interesting part of this book, when the author tries to explore the way Hallyu (Korean Wave) take a role in South Korea’s public diplomacy and how South Korea response to anti-Hallyu in China and Japan. The author argues that sustainability of Hallyu depends on employment of specific context-based strategies according to different countries, and consideration of mutual interests to go beyond pursuit of South Korea’s national interests.49

3. “The New Public Diplomacy: Soft Power in International Relations” by Jen Melissen, published by Palgrave Mac Millan, 2007.

This book described the role of public diplomacy and the diplomats as the main aspect in diplomatic relations. Public diplomacy has become more popular both in theory and in practice all over the world and also considered as an important tool to promote national branding of the countries to all over the world. Public diplomacy is aimed at foreign publics, and strategies for dealing with such publics should be distinguished from the domestic socialization of diplomacy.50 Public diplomacy and the diplomats have the connection each other. Public

46 Snow, Nancy. (2016). Korea’s Public Diplomacy. Routledge Handbook of Public Diplomacy. 47 ibid 48 ibid 49 ibid 50 Melissen, Jen. (2007). The New Public Diplomacy : Soft Power in International Relations. Palgrave Mac Millan.

diplomacy is defined as the tool and the diplomats itself defined as the actors that use the tools which is public diplomacy to gain the national interest of their own country. As the part of the soft power, public diplomacy emphasize to the effort to showing and spreading the assets of the state such as culture, political value, and the policy. The author of this book is also providing the example the practices of public diplomacy from some countries such as United States. In the early stages of the book it became clear how much confusion still surrounded public diplomacy (that is, the relationship between diplomats and the foreign publics with whom they work) with public debate on the concept being particularly intense in the United States.51

4. “Nation Branding: Concepts, Issues, Practice” by Keith Dinnie, published by Butterworth Heinemann, 2008.

This book explained the things that related to the national branding, such as a concept, theory issues, and the implementation. It is designed to show not only the ways in which conventional brand management techniques can be applied to nations but also to provide some background depth on the context and nature of nation branding.52 Therefore, the scope of the book encompasses wider issues related to national identity, sustainable development and political awareness, in addition to the more familiar branding themes of brand identity, brand image, brand positioning, and brand equity and so on.53 National branding defined as the process how countries offered their product to the other countries so they able to compete the competition between them. A nation has to admit the reality of today, where nation- branding is essential as it may increase currency strength, help restore

51 Melissen, Jen. (2007). The New Public Diplomacy : Soft Power in International Relations. Palgrave Mac Millan. 52 Dinnie, Keith. (2008). Nation Branding : Concepts, Issues, Practice. Butterworth Heinemann. 53 ibid

international credibility and investor confidence and increase international political influence. This book also provides the example of the how countries maintaining their good images in international scope, such as Japan. As is the case of the Japan, there have been similar but different concepts that were used in South Korea, such as propaganda, nation-branding and cultural diplomacy. In 2004, the Task Force on Contents in the Intellectual Property Policy Headquarters (Policy Headquarters) organized the Japan Brand Working Group to discuss the directions and the key elements of branding Japan.54 The goal of this program is to promote image and the reputation of Japan and turn it into a nation that is loved by people throughout the world. This program focuses on promoting the Japanese lifestyle and Japanese cultural assets that divided into the three areas on emphasis, such as food culture, fashion, and local brands.

5. “Public Diplomacy and South Korea’s Strategies” by Yun Young Cho, in the Korean Journal of International Studies. Volume 10, No. 2 (December 2012), 275-296, published by The Korean Association of International Studies.

This journal explained about how public diplomacy conducted by the states as the effect of the globalization and how public diplomacy helps the state to promote its image in international scope in the case of South Korea. The authors argue that public diplomacy which usually based on persuasion, influence, and images can help South Korea grow from being a small and weak country vulnerable to the shocks emanating from the changes in the international society, into a nation that can lead those changes in in the future.55 The importance of public diplomacy using soft

54 Dinnie, Keith. (2008). Nation Branding : Concepts, Issues, Practice. Butterworth Heinemann. 55 Cho, Yun Young. (2012). Public Diplomacy and South Korea’s Strategies. The Korean Journal of International Studies, Vol. 10, No. 2 (December 2012), 275-296. 2012. The Korean Association of International Studies.

power and its possible benefits for South Korea has been emphasized many times.56 Globalization accompanied by the development of technology and information enabled to influence the decision making and the foreign policy of the countries. Public diplomacy, as the impact from technology development and globalization able to change public diplomacy strategies of the nation. The diplomatic environment has changed, and those advanced nations that have perceived this change have benefitted by proactively changing their policies.57 In case of South Korea, public diplomacy has becoming the most important aspect in its relations between countries. The author argues that the importance of public diplomacy using soft power and its possible benefits for South Korea has been emphasized many times.58 South Korea should be free from being influenced by the agenda set by the major powers and set its own diplomatic goals and discuss diversified policies and creative diplomatic strategies.59

6. “Diplomatic Processes and Cultural Variations: The Relevance of Culture in Diplomacy” by Wilfried Bolewski, in the Whitehead Journal of Diplomacy and International Relations. Volume 1, No. 1, published by the Winter/spring, 2008.

The journal attempts to analyze the interdependency between culture and diplomacy. Culture and diplomacy are something that very important to in in international relations. Culture and diplomacy have tough connection each other. Culture is the new tool that used in the practice of diplomacy, called cultural diplomacy. The relationship between diplomacy and culture has been somewhat neglected in recent academic

56 Young Cho, Yun. (2012). Public Diplomacy and South Korea’s Strategies. The Korean Journal of International Studies, Vol. 10, No. 2 (December 2012), 275-296. 2012 The Korean Association of International Studies. 57 ibid 58 ibid 59 ibid

and practical studies, even though competence and understanding during intercultural exchanges unites societies and facilitates further intercultural interactions.60 Cultural diplomacy defined as the diplomacy that propose traditions, custom, moral value, or culture of a country as the tool to gain the national interest its country itself. Bolewesky explained that diplomacy deals with culturally diverse groups by means of interactions and negotiations.61 The negotiation style of each participant is formed by one’s own cultural “program.”62 The aim of diplomacy is twofold: to protect and guide the individual interests of states and to promote global norms and values characterizing the growing sense of a community of states and international unity.63

7. “Reframing Cultural Diplomacy: The Instrumentalization of Culture under the Soft Power Theory” by Mariano Martín Zamorano, in Culture Unbound Journal. Vol. 8, 2016: 166–186, published by Linkoping University Electronic.

The authors examine the dominant methodological and conceptual articulation of soft power in cultural diplomacy literature to clarify how the logical framework of soft power favors a specific and restrained conception of these policies, narrowing its understanding and legitimating its economic and political instrumentalization.64 This journal is also explained the history of the soft power and culture diplomacy From this journal we have known that the use of soft power by the countries start from the end of the World war which means during the Cold War. Since the end of the World War, countries are not using hard power to monopolize the other state anymore. Due to the big impact of

60 Bolewski, Wilfried. (2008). Diplomatic Processes and Cultural Variations: The Relevance of Culture in Diplomacy. The Whitehead Journal of Diplomacy and International Relations. 61 ibid 62 ibid 63 ibid 64 Zamorano, Mariano Martín: “Reframing Cultural Diplomacy: The Instrumentalization of Culture under the Soft Power Theory”, Culture Unbound Journal, Volume 8, 2016: 166–186. Published by Linköping University Electronic

using the hard power, countries try to monopolize by using soft power rather than hard power. The use of soft power was established during the cold war in 1990, when the United State and Soviet Union as the winner of the World War II doing the competition which country will be the most powerful country in the world by using their advanced technology. They tried to create the newest and the most sophisticated technology during that era to get confession as the superior country from other countries. In the last, United States was becoming the most powerful country and succeeds to defeat Soviet Union. This journal tries to offer a critical analysis of cultural diplomacy limitations. The advancement of technology makes cultural diplomacy receiving renewed attention. The transformations of social, economic, technology have led to the new relevance for international cultural policies. Nowadays, culture has viewed as the part of foreign policy of the country, and a means of expressing soft power in the international arena.65 As a part of soft power, culture able to help the states to monopolizing their powers cultural diplomacy involves the systematic intervention of governments in the arts, sciences, and other cultural expressions as the basis of an official categorization of national identity.66 Presently, however, cultural diplomacy is characterized by the multiplication of its intervenient agents at different scales and levels and by the growing importance of supra-national organizations.67

65 Zamorano, Mariano Martín: “Reframing Cultural Diplomacy: The Instrumentalization of Culture under the Soft Power Theory”, Culture Unbound Journal, Volume 8, 2016: 166–186. Published by Linköping University Electronic 66 ibid 67 ibid

CHAPTER III

SOUTH KOREA’S PUBLIC DIPLOMACY TO INDONESIA

III.1. South Korea’s public diplomacy

Despite its rapid rise as the “Miracle of the Han River,” Korea has limited hard power assets.68 Korea spent approximately 40 years at the beginning of the twentieth century under colonial rule, and then underwent a peninsular division that spawned a devastating war and continued separation of nearly 70 years.69 The continuing threat from the North also severely limits Korea’s hard power.70 It is because of the limited hard power, the government of South Korea changed their strategy. They prefer to use soft power rather than hard power. It is related to the establishing of South Korea’s Public Diplomacy. South Korea uses public diplomacy to build its self-image. The implementation of South Korea’s public diplomacy always related to the construction and development of its cultural identity.

In 2009, President Lee Myung Bak began to publish a nation branding campaign by establishing of “The Presidential Council on Nation Branding (henceforth referred to PCNB).” This step is a government’s concern towards the existence of the gap between the success of South Korea’s economic development and also South Korea's image in the international level. The negative image towards South Korea occurred is because of the Korean War and the separation of South Korea and North Korea.71 In addition, South Korean economic crisis in 1997 also increased the negative image of South Korea as a poor country.

Compared to other countries, South Korea has different concept in public diplomacy even though the implementation is almost similar with other countries.

68 Korea's Public Diplomacy: A New Initiative for the Future. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://en.asaninst.org/contents/issue-brief-no-39-koreas-public-diplomacy-a-new-initiative-for-the- future/ 69 ibid 70 ibid 71 ibid

The main concept of public diplomacy itself is national branding. To support the development of South Korea’s self-image, President Lee Myung Bak created ”For a Global Korea" foreign policies to introduce brand new Korea as initial steps to build South Korea's positive image internationally.72 MOFA has worked hard to establish public diplomacy as the third pillar of its foreign policy along with political and economic affairs.73 According to Diplomatic White Paper 2009, MOFAT in close cooperation with the Korea Foundation has also endeavored to promote public diplomacy through visual media by offering overseas television stations videotapes and DVDs that publicize Korea and Korean culture.

South Korean foreign policies and its diplomatic activities were summarized in the Diplomatic White Paper 2009. In accordance to Diplomatic White Paper 2009, due to the diplomatic environment changes MOFA tried to embrace the vision of “Towards the World and Future: Together with the People,” with five major objectives and five actions for each objective. These five major objectives including the “For a Global Korea” foreign policies consist of:74

Objective I: Balanced and Pragmatic Diplomacy for Peace and Prosperity in Northeast Asia

1. Concrete progress in the resolution of the North Korean nuclear issue 2. Developing Comprehensive Partnership between ROK-US 3. Building future-oriented relations with neighboring countries 4. Supporting the development of Inter-Korean relations through international cooperation 5. Promotion of the Northeast Asian multilateral security dialogue

Objective II: Diversified Diplomacy in the International Arena

1. Pursuit of the multi-dimensional summit diplomacy

72 South Korea, Government. (2008). Diplomatic White paper on: World Trends and Korea’s Foreign Policy. Seoul, Korea: Ministry of Foreign Affairs. 73 ibid 74 South Korea, Government. (2009). Diplomatic White paper on: Diplomacy to Enhance Korea’s Role and Prestige in the International Community. Seoul, Korea: Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

2. Exerting leadership in regional cooperation 3. Advancing into the European market by utilizing the EU enlargement 4. Expanding practical cooperation with the Caribbean and Latin America 5. Strengthening diplomatic relations with Africa and Central Asia

Objective III: Advanced Diplomacy Commensurate with Korea’s Status in the World

1. Expanding international contributions commensurate with Korea’s economic power 2. Increasing participation of the nationals in the major international organizations 3. Reflection of Korea’s viewpoints with regard to UN Reforms 4. Contribution to promote the universal values and resolve global issues 5. Strengthening soft power through cultural diplomacy

Objective IV: Economic and Trade Diplomacy to Build an Advanced Trading Nation

1. Pursuit of the FTAs to create the economic growth potential 2. Proactive reflection of Korea’s viewpoints on the DDA Negotiations 3. Establishment of public consensus on the trade policies 4. Proactive responses towards the major trade issues and import restrictions 5. Strategic pursuit of the energy and natural resources diplomacy

Objective V: Open Diplomacy with the People

1. Expanding the support for foreign policies through two-way communication 2. Supporting the internationalization of the local governments 3. Reinforcing support for the nationals abroad 4. Public campaign to improve the image of Koreans abroad 5. Enhancing services of the national activities abroad

From the third objectives and fifth objective can be seen that South Korea tries to enhance its image in order to expand its role to the international community. One of South Korea program to achieve its objective is strengthening soft power through Public diplomacy through Korean Wave. Furthermore, with the “Korean Wave” serving to greatly promote a favorable image of Korea abroad, Korea has engaged in cultural diplomacy to lay a valuable basis to strengthen bonds of friendship and cooperation with countries and to make use of this as a means to support the overseas activities of Korean companies.75 Korean Wave plays an important role to build South Korea’s image abroad.

In 2015, adjusting to the diplomatic climate at that time, the MOFA also has moved beyond the sphere of traditional government-oriented diplomacy by increasing its focus on public diplomacy, which includes reaching out to the foreign public through the arts, knowledge sharing, media, language, and aid.76 Hallyu (the Korean wave) is an important element of Korea's public diplomacy.77 Tools that South Korea has to implement public policy include a growing popularity of Korean music, dramas and film, and its reputation of being the most wired country in the world.78

III.2. Korean Wave (Hallyu)

Hallyu is a Chinese term which, when translated, literally means “Korean Wave.”79 Hallyu is a term for the popularity of South Korean culture to other countries or for the things that related to South Korea. Hallyu refers to the global popularity of South Korea’s cultural economy exporting pop culture, entertainment, music, drama series, movies, online games, and Korean Cuisine.80

75 South Korea, Government. (2007). Diplomatic White paper on: Open Diplomacy with People. Seoul, Korea: Ministry of Foreign Affairs. 76 South Korea, Government. (2015). Enhancing Korea's Role and Prestige in the International Community. Seoul, Korea: Ministry of Foreign Affairs. 77 ibid 78 Korea's Public Diplomacy: A New Initiative for the Future. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://en.asaninst.org/contents/issue-brief-no-39-koreas-public-diplomacy-a-new-initiative-for-the- future/ 79 Korean Wave (Hallyu) - Rise of Korea's Cultural Economy & Pop Culture. (2018, January 3). Retrieved from https://martinroll.com/resources/articles/asia/korean-wave-hallyu-the-rise-of- koreas-cultural-economy-pop-culture/ 80 ibid

The Korean Wave is one of the phenomena that occur in this era of globalization. Hallyu Wave refers to the dissemination of the culture of South Korea throughout the world.

A term now widely used to refer to the popularity of Korean entertainment and culture across Asia and other parts of the world, Hallyu or the “Korean Wave” first appeared during the mid-1990s after Korea entered into diplomatic relations with China in 1992 and Korean dramas and pop music gained great popularity in Chinese-speaking communities.81

According to Jiyeon So in her journal “Pop Culture as An Instrument for Global Public Diplomacy: a Case Study of the Influences of the Korean Wave on Asian Publics”:82

“Korean Wave is a way of South Korea’s diplomacy based on the concept of soft power which emphasizes on the ability to show and spread of the nation asset such as culture, political value, and policy.”

The development of Hallyu started in 1997. After the 1997 economic crisis in Asia, South Korea was forced to make some policies and ideas to solve this problem, including exploiting industries especially in entertainment sector.83 The entertainment industry of South Korea related to the establishment of Hallyu. Hallyu is becoming one of the indicators of the South Korea success.

There are a few fundamental factors to successfully create Hallyu. Korea's political policies regarding the dissemination of culture abroad has been there since the year 1994, when Kim Young became President of South Korea. He declared the vision development plan which then manifested by the Minister of Culture at that time, Shin Nak-Yun, by assigning the 21st century as the ”Century of Culture"

81 Korean Culture and Information Service (KOCIS). (n.d.). Hallyu (Korean Wave) : Korea.net : The official website of the Republic of Korea. Retrieved from http://www.korea.net/AboutKorea/Culture-and-the-Arts/Hallyu 82 So, Jiyeon. “Pop Culture as An Instrument for Global Public Diplomacy: a Case Study of the Influences of the Korean Wave on Asian Publics. (2009) 83 Korean Wave (Hallyu) - Rise of Korea's Cultural Economy & Pop Culture. (2018, January 3). Retrieved from https://martinroll.com/resources/articles/asia/korean-wave-hallyu-the-rise-of- koreas-cultural-economy-pop-culture/

In 1998, under the administration of President Kim Dae-Jung, the vision to promote the culture of South Korea continued. One of his programs is by making the filming locations of their drama became the location of culture, such as Namiseom Island (Winter Sonata filming locations) and Abai Village (Endless Love). Both this drama has been broadcast in several countries in Asia such as China, Taiwan, Indonesia, and Malaysia.

The Korean government has also been very active in managing Hallyu outside of Korea by conducting different cultural festivals displaying the Korean offerings, conducting public relations campaigns to publicize Korean uniqueness and indirectly helping the entertainment industry by creating a very conducive environment. As of January 2016, the Korean Culture and Information Service have set up 28 Korean Cultural Centers in 24 countries across Africa, Asia- Pacific, Europe and America to promote Hallyu.

The main media of Hallyu itself is entertainment industry. The entertainment Industry is consisting of K-pop Music, K-drama, and K-cinema. The companies that have major role in South Korea’s entertainment industry are Soo Man Entertainment (henceforth referred to SM Entertainment), Yang-gun Entertainment (henceforth referred to YG Entertainment), Jin Young Park Entertainment (henceforth referred to JYP Entertainment).

III.2.1. Korean Popular Music

Korean Popular Music or K-Pop is a genre of music created in and centered on South Korea.84 K-Pop is generally characterized by its over-the-top instrumentals, precise visuals, and its unique managerial tactics.85 The existence of Korean Popular Music was began since 1930 in the era of Japan colonialization in South Korea. The roots of Korean popular music can be traced all the way back to 1885, when a missionary named Henry Appenzeller began to teach American and British folk song to school children, replacing the original English lyrics with

84 Why K-Pop Is Taking Over The World. (2017, September 2). Retrieved from https://www.theodysseyonline.com/what-is-kpop 85 ibid

Korean ones called as Changga..86 These song known as Changga, were collected and banned by the Japanese during their rule of Korea from 1910 to 1945, as the lyric of many Changga, denounced Korea’s colonial oppressors.87

After the Korean Peninsula was divided into the North and South and after the independence of South Korea from Japan in 1945, Korean culture (Korean music) and western culture (American pop music) encountered each other. Over time, American pop culture gradually became more accepted, and “trot” music, the oldest type of Korean pop music derived from the old changga songs, started to take a distinctly Americanized form.88 It was in this era that the first Korean pop stars appeared, such as: The Kim Sisters (1959), Add4 (1962), Han Dae-soo (1974), Cho Yong-pil (1975), Lee Gwang-jo (1985), Seo Taiji & Boys (1992), etc.

One area that is growing more rapidly than any other is 21st century K- Pop, or Korean pop music, which spans dance-pop, pop ballads, techno, rock, hip- hop, R&B, and so on.89 First gaining popularity in East Asia, K-Pop entered the Japanese music market towards the turn of the 21st century, and grew from a musical genre into a subculture among teenagers and young adults of East and Southeast Asia.90

Hallyu has been building for two decades, but K-pop in particular has become increasingly visible to global audiences in the past five to 10 years.91 South Korean artists have hit the Billboard Hot 100 chart at least eight times since the Wonder Girls first cracked it in 2009 with their crossover hit “Nobody” released in four different languages, including English and the export of K-pop

86 A brief history of K-Pop. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://ontheaside.com/music/a-brief-history-of- k-pop/ 87 ibid 88 ibid 89 Korean Culture and Information Service (KOCIS). Retrieved from www.korea.net/AboutKorea/Culture-and-the-Arts/Hallyu 90 ibid 91 Romano, A. (2018, February 16). How K-pop became a global phenomenon. Retrieved from https://www.vox.com/culture/2018/2/16/16915672/what-is-kpop-history-explained

34 has ballooned South Korea’s music industry to an impressive $4.7 billion industry in 2016.92

The rise of K-Pop on the global stage is probably best represented by PSY’s Gangnam Style, which swept the world as soon as it was released in middle of 2012. The song was the first K-Pop title to reach number 1 on the British Official Singles Chart, took second place on Billboard’s Hot 100 in the US, and also topped the charts in more than 30 countries, including France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Russia, Canada, and Australia.93

Before "Gangnam Style" many things were accomplished by a surge of K- Pop groups, for example, TVXQ, Super Junior, Big Bang, 2NE1, Beast, Girls' Generation, 2PM and Wonder Girls, who dominated popular music markets across As TVXQ had a total of 65 tour concerts in Japan from 2006 to 2012, bringing together about 700,000 fans and selling over 6.3 million albums, while in late 2009 Wonder Girls became the first Korean group to enter the US Billboard Hot 100 chart with the song “Nobody.”94

K-Pop idols are usually formed inorganically through managerial intervention and the process of creating a new K-Pop idol is generally along the following lines: One of the respected labels creates both the image and branding that will be associated with the group. In becoming an idol or idol group, it took quite a long time for them to debut. They must go for audition, and annual training to debut. In training, the trainee must maintain their image and their score if they did not want to get expelled.

III.2.2 Korean Drama

Korean drama is the cause of the besginning of Hallyu in every state. Korean citizens love to watch drama, film and listen to music. The labeled and the production house spend their money to produce a drama series and some of the

92 The $4.7 Billion K-Pop Industry Chases Its 'Michael Jackson Moment? (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-08-22/the-4-7-billion-k-pop-industry-chases-its- michael-jackson-moment 93 Korean Culture and Information Service (KOCIS). Retrieved from www.korea.net/AboutKorea/Culture-and-the-Arts/Hallyu 94 Ibid

35 drama was succeed and get exported abroad. This phenomenon is one of the tools of South Korea to spread its culture to every country.

The South Korean television networks began airing dramas regularly in the early 1960’s. At that time, television was still a luxury for the majority of households and the content of the dramas was tightly controlled by the military government.95 Most dramas were made to educate the public and support the military government. For example, the first television drama series, “Backstreet of Seoul“, aired in 1962, was more like a lecture on the problems of urban life than family entertainment. Another drama, “Real Theatre“, aired for two decades between 1964 to 1985, was in fact a tool of the government’s anti-communism drive.96

After the ban on gaining revenue from advertisers was uplifted in 1969, the television networks started to invest more efforts into producing and promoting the dramas.97 Moreover, television dramas began to become a popular form of family entertainment as more households owned television. The dramas’ storylines were influenced more by the everyday lives of the people than by political agendas.

After the ban on gaining revenue from advertisers was uplifted in 1969, the television networks started to invest more efforts into producing and promoting the dramas. Moreover, television dramas began to become a popular form of family entertainment as more households owned television. In the 1980’s, the variety of K-dramas increased. Being influenced by the Japanese dramas, the Korean networks began offering trendy dramas focusing on the lives and love stories of the younger generation to attract young viewers.98 The drama, “Love and Ambition” aired in 1987, was considered a representative drama of this period.

95 Crazy about duty free. (2011, October 9). Retrieved from http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/bizfocus/2011/11/335_96343.html 96 ibid 97 Korean Culture and Information Service, K-drama: a new TV genre with global appeal, Republic of Korea, 2011 98 ibid

The growth of on-line video services and the social networking on the internet provided the opportunity for K-dramas to reach a much larger audience over the world. More money and efforts were being spent on the production of dramas to attract the audience. For example, more and more contemporary dramas were filmed in different overseas locations such as Paris, Tahiti, Budapest, Shanghai, Greece, etc. with beautiful people and fashionable clothes.99 Hollywood-style explosions, gun fights and car chases were injected into action- adventure dramas – many K-drama fans remember dramas like “Iris” and “Athena: Goddess of War”

While contemporary romantic dramas still took the lead with hits like “Winter Sonata” “Full House”,” Secret Garden”, “My Love From The Star” and “Descendants of The Sun“, other types of dramas have also received increasing attention from viewers.100

III.2.3 Korean Beauty Brands

The Korean makeup history began in the Three Kingdoms (57 B.C.-668) and peaked during the Goryeo Kingdom (918-1392) when people were interested in self-grooming and beautification.101 In ancient times, they produced facial scrubs, beauty lotions, facial creams and oils, along with colored powders, rouge and eyebrow ink.102

The eyebrow ink made from plant ash, soot in indigo, black, blue or dark brown was used to draw various shapes of the eyebrows.103 Jodu or ground mung beans were used as a cleansing soap after blending the powder with water as they contain Saponin, an effective cleansing agent. Lotions were made from juice extracted from plants such as gourd stems to be applied after washing. Oils or

99 Howard, K. (2014). Youna Kim (ed.):The Korean Wave: Korean Media Go Global. xvi, 233 pp.London and New York:Routledge,2013. ISBN978 0 415 71278 1. Bulletin of the School of Oriental and African Studies, 77(03), 644-646. doi:10.1017/s0041977x14000998 100 Baek Byung-yeul, “Webtoons emerge as source for dramas, films“, The Korea Times, 2016-01- 27ibid 101 Tracing history of cosmetics. (2013, January 31). Retrieved from http://koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/culture/2013/01/135_129776.html 102 ibid 103 ibid

37 plant seed extracts were used as solvents and castor and camellia hair oil were widely used as they are less sticky with a tender fragrance. Apricot and peach oils were believed to relieve liver spots and freckles. Safflower oil rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids was good for increasing skin moisture and gloss.104

In the 1920s, Korean cosmetics could not develop because the Japanese brands dominated the market.105 However after Korean liberation from Japanese colonial rule, Korean cosmetics were revived again, and then in 1950 Korean industry must be shut down for a while due to the Korean War. In 1961, when a law banning sales of foreign products was implemented by the Government, the Korean cosmetics industry started to develop and currently, Korean beauty products are very popular in other nations through the existence of Hallyu.106

South Korean beauty companies have the ability go from product development to production in just under two months, which is an incredible feat in the manufacturing business. France may have held the global crown of Beauty Leader of the World for a long time, but in just the last few years a shift has moved to South Korea, especially with the popularity of K-Pop and K-dramas expanding to other countries. In its development, the Korean beauty brand transformed as one of the biggest income. There are a lot of example of the popular Korean beauty brands, such as Innisfree, Etude House, The Saem, Nature Republic, the Face Shop, and Mamonde. Currently, South Korea’s biggest export markets for K-Beauty are China, Japan, Hong Kong, Indonesia and the United States.107

III.3. South Korea and Indonesia Bilateral Relations

III.3.1 Politics

On September 17 1973, South Korea and Indonesia officially started their relations and cooperation. Even though the diplomatic relations between both

104Tracing history of cosmetics. (2013, January 31). Retrieved from http://koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/culture/2013/01/135_129776.html 105 ibid 106 ibid 107 ibid

38 countries established in 1973, however the consular relationship between both countries was established seven years before, in 1966.108 At that time, there were a lot of activities was done by both countries, where not just the diplomatic relations but also the mutual cooperation. The two countries believe that continuous and consistent efforts in strengthening relations and cooperation through concrete cooperation in various sectors are their best interests.109 The two countries share many similarities such as both are democratic countries having strategic geographical location, and active in contributing and addressing global and regional challenges.110 Despite similarities, Indonesia and South Korea have many complementarities in various aspects which become "opportunities window" for furthering bilateral relations and cooperation.111 Indonesia has abundant natural resources, and sizeable market with increasing number of middle class societies. On the other hand, South Korea has strengths in economy, and technology. From the partnership, the two countries have profited from cooperation in trade, infrastructure improvement and protection.

The partnership between both countries has entered the new stage in 2006 through the signing of "Joint Declaration on Strategic Partnership to Promote Friendship and Cooperation between Republic of Indonesia and the Republic of Korea" by President Roh Moo-Hyun and President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono in 3-4 in December, Jakarta.112 These agreements consist of three pillars, there are: political and security cooperation, trade and investments cooperation, social- culture cooperation. The two countries have a number of forums or modalities for bilateral relations such as:

- Working Level Task Force (henceforth referred to WLTF) (2006);

- Joint Task Force on Economic Cooperation (2007);

108 KBRI Seoul - HUBUNGAN BILATERAL. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.kemlu.go.id/seoul/id/Pages/HUBUNGAN-BILATERAL.aspx# 109 KBRI Seoul - Korea Selatan. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.kemlu.go.id/seoul/en/Pages/Korea-Selatan.aspx 110 ibid 111 ibid 112 KBRI Seoul - HUBUNGAN BILATERAL. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.kemlu.go.id/seoul/id/Pages/HUBUNGAN-BILATERAL.aspx#

- Working Level Task Force Meeting (henceforth referred to WLTFM)

(2008);

- Joint Secretariat Indonesia – South Korea in Jakarta (2012);

III.3.2 Economy

As developing countries that have strategic location and abundant natural resources, Indonesia is an attractive place for other countries to do investment, also for South Korea. The economic cooperation between Indonesia and South Korea is officially written in Joint Declaration on Strategic Partnership to Promote Friendship and Cooperation between Republic of Indonesia and the Republic of Korea. The purpose of this Joint Declaration is to encourage the two countries to further deepen friendship and creating a more concrete cooperation. Since then, the trend of investment and trade between the two countries continue to experience increase from year to year.113

In 2007, Indonesia and South Korea established “Joint Task Force on Economic Cooperation (henceforth referred to JTF-EC)” but in 2011, JTF-EC was revitalized and became “Working Level Task Force Meeting.” After the cooperation year by year, South Korea has given a lot of contribution towards Indonesia’s economy.114 The investment of South Korea in Indonesia continued to increase in 2013, the value of the investment of South Korea in Indonesia reached USD 2, 2 billion.115

Foreign Direct Investment South Korea into Indonesia

Table III. 1. Based on Indonesia Investment

113 KBRI Seoul - HUBUNGAN BILATERAL. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.kemlu.go.id/seoul/id/Pages/HUBUNGAN-BILATERAL.aspx# 114 ibid 115 ibid

Even though there is a high amount of investment commitments from South Korea, since 2014 the amount of FDI of South Korea into Indonesia has been decreasing. The economist Lana Soelistianingsih said that there are five issues that make foreign investors hesitant to invest in Indonesia: corruption, red tape/bureaucracy, weak infrastructure, weak coordination and cooperation between the central and regional government, and the difficult access to financing.116

III.3.3 Social-Culture

In the socio-cultural sector, there are a number of programs of mutual visit between the art and culture of both countries. South Korea is very active in organizing international promotional events in numerous cities in Korea and these events have been well taken advantage of by Indonesia.117 The biggest cultural promotional events are Korea Travel Fair, Hi Seoul, Busan Travel Fair, Busan Film Festival, etc.118

Indonesian government has ratified Cooperation Agreement with South Korea in the cultural field signed in 2000.119 MOU in the field of tourism between the two countries was also signed in 2006. As a follow-up of those agreements, on 14-15 May 2008 in Yogyakarta was held the First Cultural Committee Meeting South Korea-Indonesia.120

During the visit of President Lee Myung Bak in 2009, the two countries are trying to boost the cooperation in the educational field by signing the MOU. With the MOU, the cooperation will be carried out through joint cooperation in research projects and programs; visits and exchanges of lecturers, students, researchers, and other experts; exchanges of information and documents; organization of joint meetings, conferences, seminars and exhibitions; exchanges

116 Investments, I. (2016, 17). Foreign Investment: Bilateral Cooperation Indonesia & South Korea | Indonesia Investments. Retrieved from https://www.indonesia-investments.com/id/news/todays- headlines/foreign-investment-bilateral-cooperation-indonesia-south-korea/item6823? 117 KBRI Seoul - Korea Selatan. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.kemlu.go.id/seoul/en/Pages/Korea-Selatan.aspx 118 ibid 119 ibid 120 ibid

41 of material necessary, establishment of joint research centers; education, training, and participation in on-going programs; and other forms of cooperation.121

In 2013 during the visit of President Park Geun Hye, Indonesia and South Korea also signed an MOU on creative economy. The MOU is intended to enhance the cooperation on creative economy between Indonesia and South Korea especially in fields of art, handicraft, music, film and video games.122

III.4. Korea’s Public Diplomacy to Indonesia

South Korea’s Public diplomacy strategy in building its image in Indonesia through soft power that is promoting the primacy of cultural values and morals. Hallyu (the Korean wave) is an important element of Korea's public diplomacy.123 Tools that South Korea has to implement public policy include a growing popularity of Korean music, dramas and film, and its reputation of being the most wired country in the world.124 One of the tools of South Korean soft power is “Korean Wave.” Korean Wave, also known as Hallyu became phenomenon throughout the world in last decade. It did not stop in drama or movie only, but comes with second wave through its music industry, K-Pop Music. Soon, K-Pop gained popularity and became global phenomenon. As a part of international community, Indonesia also felt the impacts of K-Pop.

A long time ago, before the popularity of Korean dramas and K-Pop Music in Indonesia, Indonesia has first familiar with the influx of Western culture, Japanese culture, and Indian culture such as the United States (Hollywood), also familiar with Japanese culture through film, drama or anime, and also with Indian culture. However, starting in 2002 South Korea has become an exporting country of culture as well as to several Asian countries even to other parts of the world,

121 KBRI Seoul - Korea Selatan. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.kemlu.go.id/seoul/en/Pages/Korea-Selatan.aspx 122 Ibid 123 ibid 124 South Korea, Government. (2009). Diplomatic White paper on: Diplomacy to Enhance Korea’s Role and Prestige in the International Community. Seoul, Korea: Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

42 especially in Indonesia. The tastes of Indonesian music and spectacle change from year to year.

Long time before Hallyu popular in Indonesia, Japanese popular music (henceforth referred to J-Pop) and Chinese Pop Music were popular. In 1970s Chinese pop music were popular, even with the pressure of Old Order and New Order that prohibited people singing any kind of Chinese music at public place, the music still alive. This kind of prohibition is adapted to the President Decree no. 14 of 1967 on Religion, Belief and Chinese Customs.125 The popularity of Chinese pop music characterized by one of the most popular Chinese rhythmic song in 1975 named “Ling Ling” by The Phoenix. Since the song Ling Ling became famous, a lot of singers who also participated to sing Indonesian pop songs with Chinese pop music style.

Chinese Pop Music is getting more popular when Taiwanese drama “Meteor Garden” starts to air in Indonesia in the early 2000s. Meteor Garden was starring by Barbie Tsu, and F4 (Jerry Yan, Vanness Wu, Ken Chu, and Vic Chou). The popularity of “Meteor Garden”, make Indonesian people start to fall in love with the song that became the original soundtrack (henceforth referred to Ost) of the drama which sing by F4, such as “Can't Help Falling In Love, “Oh Baby”, “Liu Xing Yu” and “Ask For More.” Then, during the administration of President Abdurrahman Wahid, the President issued Presidential Decree no. 6 of 2000, on Revocation of Presidential Decree No. 14 of 1967 regarding Chinese Religions, Beliefs and Customs. The conclusion of this decree was to eliminate ethnic discrimination towards Chinese ethnic at the time, by allowing Chinese ethnic communities to do their religion activities, beliefs and customs without special permission as it was at that time.

In 1980s Indonesia, the popularity of J-Pop was began when the song of “Ko Ko Ro No Tomo” and “Amayadori” by Mayumi Itsuwa was popular. In the late 1980s, the entry of Japanese comics, Japanese anime, and also films with

125 PENCABUTAN INSTRUKSI PRESIDEN NOMOR 14 TAHUN 1967 TENTANG AGAMA, KEPERCAYAAN, DAN ADAT ISTIADAT CINA | JDIH Kementerian Riset, Teknologi dan Pendidikan Tinggi. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://jdih.ristekdikti.go.id/v0/?q=perundangan/konten/9293

“Tokukatsu” (costumed hero) genre to Indonesia, made J-pop is getting more popular. In 1990s, the popularity of J-Pop was not similar with the popularity of Japanese Anime and film at that time.126 The Japanese film and anime are more popular rather than J-pop. It happened until in the early of 2000, Korean Wave start to dominate Indonesian market, when the drama of “Endless Love” started to air in 2002.

Long before the Korean drama airs in Indonesia, Bollywood and Mexican telenovelas were very popular in Indonesia. Such as Little Missy (1986) and Maria Marcedez (1993). Bollywood, which brings Indian distinctive character with singing and dancing in every movie, has taken the hearts of the Indonesian people first. Bollywood idols became popular among Indonesians such as Shah Rukh Khan, Kajol, etc. At about the same time around 1990s until the early 2000s, the dramas from Brazil, Puerto Rico and Mexico which also known as Telenovela was booming in Indonesia. In the 1990s the influence of Bollywood and Telenovela became a compulsory spectacle for the people of Indonesia, as it is now.

At the beginning of 2000s, Korea drama started to enter Indonesian market through its run on Indonesian television channel. One of the most phenomenal dramas at that time is Endless Love. The drama that drains tears introduced publicly in a trio of Song Hye Gyo, Song Seung Hoon, and Won Bin. A few years after Endless paves the way for Korea drama, the other drama series started crowded in. There are Full House, Princess Hours, and Boys before Flowers.

In early 2000, when Hallyu existed in Indonesia, Indonesian people taste changed. They start to love the celebrities from South Korea, such as Super Junior, BoA, Big Bang which must be familiar in the ears of most Indonesian people, especially among teenager. It cannot be denied, music and Korean dramas become something very popular in Indonesia today, even enthusiastic with things that comes from South Korea. Many people started to learn everything about

126 Invasi J-Pop VS K-Pop di Indonesia, Mana yang Akan Bertahan Lebih Lama? | Fimela.com. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.fimela.com/news-entertainment/invasi-j-pop-vs-k-pop-di- indonesia-mana-yang-akan-bertahan-lebih-lama-140908z.html

Korea, such as language, culture, etc. Korea seemed to have anesthetized the Indonesian people with music and drama.

Korean dramas come with a small family-themed spectacle and a variety of conflicts inside, which are wrapped in such a way that it is interesting to watch. The Endless Love, Korean drama which was released in 2002 became the beginning of the Hallyu spread. Korean Broadcasting Station (henceforth referred to KBS) television production which in its native country achieved great success has bought broadcast rights to be introduced to the people of Indonesia at that time. Romantic and sad tragic stories become the most interesting part of this drama.

Based on the AC Nielsen Indonesia survey in 2014, the Endless Love rating reached 10 (watched by 2.8 million viewers in five major cities), almost close to Meteor Garden rating around 11 (about 3.08 million viewers).127 In 2002, Trans TV aired the Korean drama “Glass Shoes and Lover”. In addition, Rajawali Citra Televisi (henceforth referred to RCTI), Indosiar, Trans TV and Televisi 7 (henceforth referred to TV7), Surya Cipta Televisi (henceforth referred to SCTV) during 2002-2002 also aired several Korean dramas such as Pop Corn, Four Sisters, Successful Bride Girl, Sunlight Upon Me and Winter Sonata. However among these dramas, the most popular is Winter Sonata. SCTV has aired Winter Sonata every Monday at 19.00. Meanwhile, since September 2004, Indosiar also aired Winter Sonata every Monday - Thursday afternoon at 15.30.128 Seeing this phenomenon, one thing that can be seen is the magnitude of the desire of some Indonesian people to watch this drama although it has been shown before.

There are a lot of Korean drama was popular in Indonesia such as Full House, Princess Hours, Winter Sonata, Boys Over Flowers, My Love Who Come from the Star, Descendant of the Sun, Goblin. The success of Korean drama comes from the idea of creativity and imagination which is developed by its production staff. They tried to lift the daily problems of society and culture of Korea through a drama they make.

127 The Jakarta Post. (2017, February 13). ESSAY: Hallyu, the Korean wave. Retrieved from http://www.thejakartapost.com/life/2017/02/13/essay-hallyu-the-korean-wave.html 128 ibid

Korean Drama Rating in Indonesia

Rating Highest No Drama Release Network Average Rating Note Monday, 05 August Winter Sonata ANTV 12.20% 16.60% Complete 1 2012 My Love from Thursday, 11 RCTI 9.35% 9,9% Complete 2 The Star December 2014 Descendant of Friday, 27 May 2016 RCTI 18.10% 18.80% Complete 3 The Sun Monday, 02 October Goblin Global TV 20.50% 22.10% Complete 4 2017 Table III.2. Rating Based on AC Nielsen Indonesia

In fact, the actors and the actress who are in these dramas have become new idols among the people of Indonesia, such as Song Jong Ki, Song He Gyo, Kim Soo Hyun, Jun Ji Hyun, Gong Yoo, and so on. The popularity of Korean drama in Indonesia make some Indonesia television atation doing a remake, for example: “Kau Yang Berasal Dari Bintang” from “My Love From the Star”, “Benci Bilang Cinta“ from “Princess Hour, and “Kejora dan Bintang” from Brilliant Legacy.

Korean drama got a lot of attention from Indonesian people. Except the story of the drama is very interesting and the quality of the cast is very good, Korean drama is favored because it has a very diverse conflicts. Although between one drama and the other had a conflict and a plot that is almost the same, sometimes a way of packaging and the conflict resolution always made different and unique.

In addition, other characteristic of Korean dramas are the existence of the elements of Korean culture, values, and daily life of South Korean people. In Korean drama, we can see a lot of Korean traditional food, fashion style, and also the tourist attraction in South Korea. Korean drama is a tool for the Government of South Korea to expand their culture to Indonesia. The love Indonesian people towards Korea drama will affect great for political affairs, economy, and culture

46 of South Korea in Indonesia. This is proven by the large number of Indonesian people who study the Korean language and learn Korean culture, buy South Korean products, and also the increasing number of Indonesian tourists in Korea.

The South Korean government strongly supports its popular culture and treats it like an export commodity and an asset. As an example, in one of a shopping mall in Jakarta “Lotte Duty Free”129, a branch of a Korean department store chain was in fact officially opened by the South Korean President Park Geun Hye in June 21, 2013 as the activities of culture cooperation between Indonesia and South Korea.130 The mall has a somewhat Korean atmosphere, with Korean restaurants and shops and walls decorated with huge portraits of Korean pop idols and Korean culture.131 Lotte Duty Free is located in the Ciputra World Jakarta. From this example, we can see that the government of South Korea tries to promote its culture to Indonesia.

Figure III.1. Lotte Duty Free Source : http://www.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20130621000634

129 Lotte Duty Free Shop is a one-stop shopping complex providing over 30 boutiques that offer shoppers a wide range of products. Lotte Duty Free Shop - Main Branch (롯데면세점 (본점)). Retrieved from: http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SHP/SH_EN_7s_2.jsp?cid=273801 130 Crazy about duty free. (2011, October 9). Retrieved from http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/bizfocus/2011/11/335_96343.html 131 ibid

Along with the popularity of Korean dramas and K-pop Music, Indonesian people began to recognize the Korean brands, such as Korean beauty brands. In Indonesia itself, the popularity of K-beauty brands began to appear along the entry of the popularity of Hallyu in Indonesia. The popularity of K-beauty products in Indonesia can be seen from many of K-beauty stores which began to operate in Indonesia. There are a lot of K-Beauty brands in Indonesia that we can be found such as Innisfree, The Nature Republic, The Face Shop, The Saem, and Mamonde. Most of Indonesian people, especially for the young people are using products of K-beauty products because they want to follows their idols.132

132 Korean Culture and Information Service (KOCIS). (n.d.). Korean Beauty Empire : Korea.net : The official website of the Republic of Korea. Retrieved from http://www.korea.net/NewsFocus/Column/view?articleId=137556

CHAPTER IV

Korean Wave as a Tool of South Korea’s Public Diplomacy to promote Korean Beauty Brands

IV.1 The Contributions of Korean Wave to promote Korean Beauty Brands

In the past few years, the development of Korean culture has spread to all corners of the world. Indonesia did not escape being one of the countries where the development of Korean culture growing fast. A variety of products from South Korea, ranging from drama, music, food, cosmetics, fashion, movies, has spread widely. The export of South Korea’s culture gives the huge profits for South Korea itself. The process of spreading Hallyu did not escape used to be a brand image of South Korea.

Hallyu is a phenomenon towards the growth of South Korea’s culture through the mass media. The growing popularity of Korean pop culture in many regions caused the Korean government to use the Korean Wave as a tool for soft power. In this respect, the Korean government’s attribution of the prefix “K-” (means Korean-) to all sorts of cultural products, ranging from television dramas to food to cosmetics to pop music helped to further solidify this nation brand.133 Everything about Korean culture, it is always prefixed by “K-.” such as K-pop, K-drama, and K-beauty which means Korean 134 popular, Korean drama, and Korean beauty.

The development of Hallyu still related to the development of the K- beauty products. Hallyu wave being one factor in success of K-beauty products.

This became the impetus for the development of Korean-style beauty. K- beauty is an umbrella term that encompasses not just Korean skin care and makeup products, but also its culture and outlook towards beauty and grooming in

133 Shim, D. (2008). The Growth of Korean Cultural Industries and the Korean Wave. East Asian Pop Culture Journal, 14-31. doi:10.5790/hongkong/9789622098923.003.0002 134 ibid

49 general. Riding on the back of K-drama and K-pop, the Korean beauty industry has witnessed an unprecedented level of growth that has rarely been seen in any other industry for the past several years.135 Through the tools of Hallyu such as K- pop and K-drama, K-beauty products make it easy to be marketed. Korean very often used as fields for K-beauty products ads. We can see very often, the number of K-beauty products from various brands shown in K-dramas. This brand is used as a precursor in the drama cast appearance of it. For example in drama “My Love From the Star.” 136

Figure IV. 1. Jun Ji Hyun as Chong Song Yi in drama “My Love from the Star”

Jun Ji Hyun is also an endorser for skin care brand Hanyul, it was only natural that she showcased its product while filming My Love from the Star. Its famous facial toner was cleverly placed in front of her vanity dresser while she was doing her skin care routine, and the product got sold out within a month after that particular episode aired.137

135 User, S. (n.d.). Wondrous K-Beauty. Retrieved from http://www.visitkorea.com.my/wondrous- k-beauty.html 136 Ramos, M. (2016, November 23). 4 Beauty Products That Were Immediately Sold Out Because of Jun Ji Hyun | Preview.ph. Retrieved from https://www.preview.ph/beauty/4-beauty-products- that-were-sold-out-because-of-jun-ji-hyun-a00034-20161123 137 ibid

Talking about beauty brands, people will admit that Seoul has become one of the most fashionable and culturally influential cities in Asia.138 That means that Korean standards of beauty sprout forth from the city of Seoul.139 In 2017, South Korea was the 8th largest cosmetics market in the world, representing nearly 3.0% of the global market.140 In 2016, the market size was estimated to be approximately USD 7.1 billion; the total local production and total exports increased approximately 8.2% and 61.6%, respectively, from the previous year.141 The market has grown at an annual growth rate of 8.2% for the last five years. South Korea has grown to become the world's sixth-largest exporter of cosmetics, with foreign sales more than quadrupling between 2009 and 2015 to be worth $US1.59 billion.142

K-beauty brand and cosmetics in Korea are regulated by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (henceforth referred to MFDS) and divided into the two categories: functional cosmetics and regular cosmetics. Functional cosmetics, which currently comprise whitening, anti-wrinkle, sunscreen, tanning products, are expected to be extended to 11 categories including hair dye products and hair loss prevention cosmetics.143 MFDS reviews only functional cosmetics for pre - market approval. For all other regular cosmetics, the Korea Pharmaceutical Traders Association (henceforth referred to KPTA) has been authorized by MFDS to review and certify import permission requests submitted by the Korean importers.

138 Korean Culture and Information Service (KOCIS). (n.d.). Korean Beauty Empire : Korea.net : The official website of the Republic of Korea. Retrieved from http://www.korea.net/NewsFocus/Column/view?articleId=137556 139 Ibid 140 Korea - Cosmetics | export.gov. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.export.gov/article?id=Korea-Cosmetics 141 Asia Cosmetic Market Guide. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.trade.gov/industry/materials/AsiaCosmeticsMarketGuide 142 Korean Men Are Wearing Make up. Retrieved from : https://www.smh.com.au/business/south- korean-men-are-wearing-makeup-and-its-serious-business-20161228-gtivin.html 143 ibid

Figure. IV.2 Market Size of South Korea based on Korean Statistic Organization (KOSIS)

Every K-beauty brand offers many various beauty products, such as skincare, body care, hair treatment, facial treatment, and cosmetics. Most of the K-beauty products made from natural ingredients, such as ginseng, mud, Aloevera, and sometimes traditional plants of South Korea. The Face Shop, Nature Republic, and Innisfree are the example of K-beauty brands that use natural ingredients. The Face Shop as K-beauty brand launched in 2003, choose to use natural ingredients for their products. The Face Shop creates products from approximately 600 natural ingredients such as flowers, grains, plants, fruits, mineral water, and oriental medicine to nourish and revitalize the skin.144 The Face Shop is the most commercially successful and recognizable Korean brand with its famous tagline “Natural Story”.145

Figure IV.3. K-beauty Product Mosly Used based on Mintel Market Survey

The chart above shows the K-beauty products are the most widely used. Mostly, Korean people choose to use hair colorants. Hair dye very identic with the Korea celebrities’ lifestyle using a variety of hair colors.

With the spread of Hallyu, many domestic cosmetics businesses are eager to advance to Southeast Asian countries. However, most of these businesses are a small-scale, thus experience difficulties as they lack information regarding overseas regulatory and market information, and suffer from low brand recognition. For this reason, the MFDS hosts One Asia Cosmetics and Beauty Forum to help the said businesses exchange more information with relevant regulatory agencies and the industries in Asia, which will lead to communicating with more potential local buyers.146

In 2017, the One Asia Cosmetics and Beauty Forum were held in Jakarta. The 2017 One Asia Cosmetics and Beauty Forum aimed to enhance understanding of The Indonesian and Korean cosmetics market and regulatory systems, thereby promoting cosmetics trade in the region.

146 MFDS - Ministry Of Food And Drug Safety -BIO & COSMETICS >International Events >One Asia Forum. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.mfds.go.kr/eng/index.do?nMenuCode=177

IV.1.2 The Role of Hallyu Stars in Increasing Korean Beauty Brands

The companies of K-beauty utilize the most influential celebrities of the moment in order to promote their brands. The popularity of Korean cosmetics outside of Korea has also been driven by the Hallyu as international K-pop and Korean drama fans gained interest in achieving the look of their favorite stars. On top of that many brands are employing celebrities to endorse their brands and often these campaigns reach out beyond the domestic market as fans search for high quality images of their idols. Customers have the desire to look like those successful people and they will consume everything that their idols advertise. 147

In South Korea, the homogeneous make-up trend is influenced by celebrity looks featured in television soap operas and magazine pictures.148 Celebrity looks are spread quickly online and television beauty shows and soon become a big consumer trend.149 Besides having great talent, Korean celebrities also get a lot of fans because of their look can make people easily to love them. Most people, especially for the young people are using products of K-beauty products because they want to follows their idols.150 They want to look beautiful or handsome like Korean artists. In addition, the K-beauty products have great quality. For people it is possible to think what the secret recipe for Korean artist’s beauty to make face and skin very smooth and glowing. Korean celebrities look with their desirable beauty and flawless skin encourages manufacturers to formulate their cutting-edge formulas through cosmetic or makeup products with a variety of variants and uses.

Many South Korean actors and actresses who became the brand Ambassador of famous K-beauty brands, such as the following:

147 Korean TV Show actors can increase brand awareness china. Retrieved from https://www.marketingtochina.com/korean-tv-show-actors-can-increase-brand-awareness-china/ 148 Korean Culture and Information Service (KOCIS). (n.d.). Korean Beauty Empire : Korea.net : The official website of the Republic of Korea. Retrieved from http://www.korea.net/NewsFocus/Column/view?articleId=137556 149 ibid 150 Korean Culture and Information Service (KOCIS). (n.d.). Korean Beauty Empire : Korea.net : The official website of the Republic of Korea. Retrieved from http://www.korea.net/NewsFocus/Column/view?articleId=137556

1. Song Hye Gyo and Song Jong Ki as Brand Ambassador of Lanneige.

Figure IV.4. Song Hye Gyo as Laneige Brand Ambassador Source: http://beautynesia.id/2795

Figure IV.5. Song Jong Ki as Laneige Brand Ambassador Source: http://beautynesia.id/2795

2. Park Shin Hye as Brand Ambassador of Mamonde.

Figure IV.6. Park Shin Hye as Brand Ambassador of Mamonde Source: http://beautynesia.id/2795

3. Lee Min Ho as Brand Ambassador of Innisfree.

Figure IV.7. Lee Min Ho as Brand Ambassador of Innisfree Source: http://www.herworld.com/beauty/updates/natural-k-beauty-innisfree-open- singapore

4. Bae Suzy as Brand Ambassador of The Face Shop.

Figure IV.8. Bae Suzy as Brand Ambassador of the Face Shop

Source: https://nrindo.com/recommended-10-brand-kosmetik-korea-yang-wajib-kamu-coba/4/

5. Jun Ji Hyun as Brand Ambassador of Labo.

Figure IV.9. Jun Ji Hyun as Brand Ambassador of Labo

Source : https://www.thestar.com.my/lifestyle/women/beauty/2014/07/17/jun-jihyun-is-hada- ladoambassador/

The interesting thing about K-beauty is about the marketing strategy, sometimes they uses male celebrities as their brand ambassador of their products. For instance, there are Song Jong Ki, Lee Min Ho, Bae Yong Joon, Kim Soo Hyun, etc. It is rare to find the use of male artists to become brand ambassadors of beauty products. However, South Korean often uses male artists as brand ambassadors of beauty products. For instance, in the era of the success of the drama Winter Sonata, the main actors Bae Yong Joon was chosen as the brand Ambassador of the Face shop in 2003. He was chosen as the brand ambassador, it is because he was very popular through is acting in Winter Sonata.

Figure IV.10. Bae Yong Joon as Brand Ambassador of the Face Shop Source : www.thefaceshop.co.jp

Male celebrities of South Korea are indeed very well-known with the good looks of their faces. Most of them have very nice skin. Although South Korea’s men known as the biggest cosmetics and beauty products consumers in the world, the majority of people assume if it did not reduce their appearance as a man. The purpose of why most K-beauty companies in South Korea using a male celebrities instead to attract women to buy these products, but also to attract men to buy the

58 products.151 Some of these companies have even stepped up into using male celebrities to advertise their “pour les hommes” products, increasing the market of men wanting to enhance their appearances, which then affects other men into adopting the trend as well.152

Korean men mostly known as the men who are very attentive to their appearance. They very often doing treatments or using makeup. It is a trend that clashes with Western ideas about masculinity and gender, but Korean men are spending a ton of money on cosmetics products in order to improve their skin and appearance.153 Korean men mostly use Blemish Balm cream (henceforth referred to as BB Cream), lip balm, eyeliner to support their appearance when working or doing social life. Inspired by their idols, singers and players of the film, the young man began more concerned to take care of their skin for the sake of getting the ideal face.154 In 2017, their beauty industry is now estimated to be worth about $10 billion – 10% of which is now coming from male products.155

IV.2. The Rise of Korean Beauty Brands in Indonesia

The phenomenon of the Hallyu in Indonesia began with the appearance of a K-drama series called Endless Love and Winter Sonata in 2003. Currently, the phenomenon of Hallyu in Indonesia affects Indonesian people's lifestyle especially for the youth. Many of young Indonesians who are currently love South Korea’s celebrities ranging from drama, movies, or music. It also makes the proliferation of Korean fan base or Korean community in Indonesia.

151 Hestianingsih. (n.d.). Tren Pria Jadi Model Produk Kosmetik, Bentuk Kebebasan Berekspresi? Retrieved from https://wolipop.detik.com/read/2017/01/05/173336/3388795/234/tren-pria-jadi- model-produk-kosmetik-bentuk-kebebasan-berekspresi 152 Korean Men Are Globally Famous For Their Beautiful Skin, And This Is Why. (2016, December 19). Retrieved from https://www.koreaboo.com/buzz/more-and-more-korean-men-are- using-facial-products-and-makeup-heres-why/ 153 Novak, K. (2015, October 4). Why South Korea's men are buying tons of cosmetics. Retrieved from http://money.cnn.com/2015/10/04/news/south-korea-men-cosmetics/index.html 154 Kompas Cyber Media. (2018, February 9). Di Korea Selatan, Pria Juga Butuh Tampil "Cantik" - Kompas.com. Retrieved from https://lifestyle.kompas.com/read/2018/02/09/071000320/di-korea- selatan-pria-juga-butuh-tampil-cantik- 155 Men in South Korea are wearing make-up to boost their self-confidence. (2017, January 16). Retrieved from http://metro.co.uk/2017/01/16/men-in-south-korea-are-wearing-make-up-to-boost- their-self-confidence-6383553/

The popularity of Hallyu in Indonesia itself has an impact on sales of South Korean products. One of the original products of South Korea who got into Indonesia due to the Hallyu was K-beauty brands. In Indonesia, there have been many found beauty products of origin of South Korea.

Bilateral trade between South Korea and Indonesia 2015-2017: Product: Beauty or make-up preparations and preparations for the care of the skin, incl. sunscreen or suntan preparations (excluding medicaments); manicure or pedicure preparation (Unit: USD) Korea, Republic of's exports to Product Indonesia Product label code Value in Value in Value in 2015 2016 2017 Beauty or make-up preparations and preparations for '3304 the care of the skin, incl. sunscreen or ... 10582 12415 21605 Mixtures of odoriferous substances and mixtures, incl. '3302 alcoholic solutions, based on one or ... 558 1560 3774

Shaving preparations, incl. pre-shave and aftershave '3307 products, personal deodorants, bath and ... 1351 1153 1991 '3305 Preparations for use on the hair 793 1090 1152 Preparations for oral or dental hygiene, incl. denture '3306 fixative pastes and powders; yarn used ... 265 104 74 Perfumes and toilet waters (excluding aftershave '3303 lotions, personal deodorants and hair lotions) 11 22 72 Essential oils, whether or not terpeneless, incl. '3301 concretes and absolutes; resinoids; extracted ... 44 1 2

Table IV.1. Based on Trademap

Korean Beauty Brands is one of popular beauty products in Indonesia. Indonesia, as one such country, is now a potential market for Korean products and services.156 In South East Asia, South Korea put their interest to Indonesia as big market in Asia.157 Excepting as one of the country with the biggest number of citizens, Indonesia is also one of a country with the biggest of Hallyu fan base in the world. According to Central Bureau of Statistic Indonesia, the import of K- beauty products is USD 5.9 billion in 2016.

156 Korean Culture and Information Service (KOCIS). (n.d.). Korean Beauty Empire : Korea.net : The official website of the Republic of Korea. Retrieved from http://www.korea.net/NewsFocus/Column/view?articleId=137556 157 ibid

List of some K-beauty brands sales in Indonesia in 2014-2017

Sales (Estimation) No Name Year (Rupiahs)

1 Etude House 2014 57 Billion 2 Faceshop 2014 84 Billion 3 Innisfree 2014 49 Billion 4 Nature Republic 2014 52 Billion

5 Etude House 2015 70 Billion 6 Faceshop 2015 75 Billion 7 Innisfree 2015 83 Billion 8 Nature Republic 2015 81 Billion

9 Etude House 2016 90 Billion 10 Faceshop 2016 107 Billion 11 Innisfree 2016 90 Billion 12 Nature Republic 2016 87 Billion

13 Etude House 2017 89 Billion 14 Faceshop 2017 98 Billion 15 Innisfree 2017 168 Billion 16 Nature Republic 2017 157 Billion Table IV.2.Based on KCIA

The trend of Korean cosmetics in recent years has undergone a significant development. Korean beauty brands are growing rapidly in the global market, along with the increasing interest in Korean pop-culture.158 The innovative, high quality Korean cosmetic and beauty brands with reasonable price tags are enough to catch the eyes of customers overseas.159 It is easily to find, a many of products

158 Korean Cosmetic Association Retrieved from https://www.kcia.or.kr/_Document/News/NEWS_020V.asp?dnSn=2477&tablename=B_NEWS 159 Korean Culture and Information Service (KOCIS). (n.d.). Korean Beauty Empire : Korea.net : The official website of the Republic of Korea. Retrieved from http://www.korea.net/NewsFocus/Column/view?articleId=137556

61 store K-beauty brands in almost every department store in Indonesia, such as Etude House, the Nature Republic, The Face Shop, The Saem, Innisfree, etc.

Korea's Beauty Product Market Sales in Indonesia

No. Year Sales (won)

1 2014 851 Billion

2 2015 2.9 Trillion

3 2016 3.1 Trillion

4 2017 4.85 Trillion

Table IV.3. Based on KOCIS

From the data above, the development of the sales of K-beauty product in Indonesia increase every year in Indonesia since 2014. The increase in the number of sales K-beauty product in Indonesia be the result of South Korea's success in promoting the benefit to raise their brand through the Hallyu.160 It can be seen from, the fact that in 2014 until 2017 Hallyu is very popular. It is characterized by the presence of the success of several K-drama such as My Love From the Star (2014), Descendant of the Sun (2016), and Goblins (2017) which are most of the ,main casts became the brand ambassador of K-beauty brands. In addition, in these years, lots of K-pop group started to pop up and become popular, such as Bangtan Boys (henceforth referred to BTS), EXO, Seventeen, Red Velvet, and etc.

IFrom Simon Anholt theory, Hallyu make countries know more about the Korean culture, they would build a better perception of the country. “The ‘Korean Wave’ is sample proof that Korea is a country that people like more when they know more about it.161

160 Korean Culture and Information Service (KOCIS). (n.d.). Korean Beauty Empire : Korea.net : The official website of the Republic of Korea. Retrieved from http://www.korea.net/NewsFocus/Column/view?articleId=137556 161 Anholt, Simon. Nation-Branding. Retrieved from: http://nation- branding.info/2008/09/03/brand-korea/

Soft Power (Public Diplomacy) + Hallyu = Promote Korean Beauty Brand

(Strategy) (Symbolic Action) (Enhance Reputation)

Figure IV. 11. South Korea’s National Brand based on Simon Anholt’s Theoretical Framework

Based on Simon Anholt’s National Branding theoretical framework162, this framework tells that the Government of South Korea uses its soft power as their strategy and Hallyu as their symbolic action to enhance its reputation to promote its Korean Beauty Brand especially to Indonesia. In other hand, the government uses Hallyu as their strategy to spread their soft power then they will be able to enhance their reputation in order to promote Korean Beauty Brands in Indonesia. Then, if South Korea success to enhance its reputation by using Hallyu, therefore Korean Beauty brands will be easily to be promoted.

The popularity of K-pop, K-drama, and the market opportunity of K- beauty brands in Indonesia motivate many K-beauty brands is started to entered Indonesia in 2014.163 The rise of K-beauty brands in Indonesia and marked with the influx of many K-beauty brands into Indonesia in 2014-2017. There many K- beauty brands that started to expand their market to Indonesia in 2014 – 201, for example Innisfree in 2015, Sulwhasoo in 2017, and Clio Professional in 2017. They offer a wide range of products such as skincare and facial treatment.

162 Anholt. Simon. (2010). Place: Identity, Image and Reputation. Palgrave Macmillan: London. 163 Korean Cosmetic Association Retrieved from https://www.kcia.or.kr/_Document/News/NEWS_020V.asp?dnSn=2477&tablename=B_NEWS

CHAPTER V

CONCLUSION

Hallyu is a strategy of the Government of South Korea to spread their diplomacy to other countries, especially to Indonesia. Hallyu is not just a thing that relates to culture, music, entertainment, but is closely related with the how South Korean Government build relationships with Indonesia mainly for their national objectives through Hallyu. Through its Public diplomacy by using Hallyu to Indonesia, South Korea was able to improve their image for the better. It is not just the image of a country that is becoming more positive, but will have an impact on the economy of South Korea itself. South Korea's economy is developed, one of them because people interested in South Korea's existing products that successful. This interest is due to the existence of a positive image of South Korea as a result from the success of South Korea’s diplomacy and diplomacy influence itself.

As one of the tools of public diplomacy, Hallyu strongly supported by the Government of South Korea. The support given to the development of Hallyu by South Korean Government is evidenced by the establishment of South Korea’s foreign policies called "For Global Korea." The support not just of the formation "For Global Korea," However, the government also issues many funds to promote Hallyu to other countries. In 2014, South Korea even spends nearly 5.2 billion U.S. dollars for this field and also the media, or about 1.4 percent of the total national budget. South Korea’s Government also formed many organizations responsible for spreading Hallyu, such as KTO, KOCIS, KOFIS, and KOCCA.

In addition, the success of Hallyu, make the Indonesian Government looks at South Korea's success in spreading their culture. This makes the Government of South Korea and Indonesia in 2013 doing cooperation by signing MOU in cooperation the” creative economy”, especially in music, movies, video games, etc.

Korean government is also smart to pack its culture in the form of placement advertising contained in Korea’s pop music videos, movies and drama series broadcast in various countries, especially Indonesia. Along with the high K- drama viewers, the audience demand for products that are "advertised" in veiled it steadily grew. Korean culture increasingly fused with local cultures of the local state. The existence of the Hallyu that created the cultural trend of South Korea, made consumer recognized some Korean products such as K-beauty brand as the benefits of increasing the country's soft power.

Along with the development of Hallyu in Indonesia, K-beauty brands entered and develop in Indonesia. The success of Hallyu was proven by the existence of Korean fan base in Indonesia. The images owned by the celebrities of South Korea who are flawless and attractive succeed to impress Indonesia society. Many of them want to looks like the appearance of their idol artists. This gives a great success of selling South Korea beauty brands.

The K-beauty brands such as the Face Shop, Innisfree, Etude House, Laneige are very popular among Indonesia's society. The sales of K-beauty brands in Indonesia continue to increase along with the growing popularity of Hallyu in Indonesia.

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Men in South Korea are wearing make-up to boost their self-confidence. (2017, January 16). Retrieved from http://metro.co.uk/2017/01/16/men-in-south- korea-are-wearing-make-up-to-boost-their-self-confidence-6383553/ MFDS - Ministry Of Food And Drug Safety -BIO & COSMETICS >International Events >One Asia Forum. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.mfds.go.kr/eng/index.do?nMenuCode=177 PENCABUTAN INSTRUKSI PRESIDEN NOMOR 14 TAHUN 1967 TENTANG AGAMA, KEPERCAYAAN, DAN ADAT ISTIADAT CINA | JDIH Kementerian Riset, Teknologi dan Pendidikan Tinggi. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://jdih.ristekdikti.go.id/v0/?q=perundangan/konten/9293 Ramos, M. (2016, November 23). 4 Beauty Products That Were Immediately Sold Out Because of Jun Ji Hyun | Preview.ph. Retrieved from https://www.preview.ph/beauty/4-beauty-products-that-were-sold-out- because-of-jun-ji-hyun-a00034-20161123 Romano, A. (2018, February 16). How K-pop became a global phenomenon. Retrieved from https://www.vox.com/culture/2018/2/16/16915672/what-is- kpop-history-explained Shim, D. (2008). The Growth of Korean Cultural Industries and the Korean Wave. East Asian Pop Culture, 14-31. doi:10.5790/hongkong/9789622098923.003.0002 THE FACE SHOP | skincare | cosmetics | natural skincare | natural | organic | plant based | Korean skincare | Korea | Aloe Vera | aloe gel | chia seed |. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.thefaceshop.com.my/thefaceshop The Jakarta Post. (2017, February 13). ESSAY: Hallyu, the Korean wave. Retrieved from http://www.thejakartapost.com/life/2017/02/13/essay-hallyu-the-korean- wave.html Tracing history of cosmetics. (2013, January 31). Retrieved from http://koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/culture/2013/01/135_129776.html User, S. (n.d.). Wondrous K-Beauty. Retrieved from http://www.visitkorea.com.my/wondrous-k-beauty.html Why K-Pop Is Taking Over The World. (2017, September 2). Retrieved from https://www.theodysseyonline.com/what-is-kpop

APPENDICES

The information regarding Cosmetic store in Official Website of South Korea (Visit Korea)

South Korea’s Diplomatic White Paper 2008

South Korea’s Diplomatic White Paper 2009

South Korea’s Diplomatic White Paper 2015

South Korea’s Diplomatic White Paper 2008

Official Website of South Korea (Korea.net)

South Korea’s Diplomatic White Paper 2008

Official web that established by MOFA of South Korea

Hallyu in Official Website of MOFA South Korea in Jakarta

Official websites that promote of K-pop

Hallyu in Official Website of MOFA South Korea in Jakarta

The official website established by Korean Government to promote K-pop Music Videos (K-Store)

Official Website of South Korea that shows the History of Hallyu in Indonesia

One Asia Cosmetic Forum in Jakarta 2017 (KCIA)

One Asia Cosmetic Forum in Jakarta 2017

Brochure and Promotion of Korean Culture Event in Indonesia