Grit E5 Some of the Most Classic Grit Lines Are E5, Particularly Aretes

The following was the content of Jon “Readza” Read’s Grit List site, when it was available on Geocites. Now that the original site is no more, I hope this record of it will bring back some memories. All credit goes to Readza, as all I did was copy and paste!

GCW

Grit E5 Some of the most classic grit lines are E5, particularly aretes. Most of the routes of this grade hail from the renaissance of the 1970's, except for the well protected technical desperates from the mid 80's, training for the harder routes to come

Page Menu Introduction E5 E6 E7 E8 E9 LGPs

The E5s

Vanquished E5 6b Stanage Tricky 'break to break'ing up wall between the Unconquerables. Excellent gear in Left Unconquerable , Friend 1 near top. Low in the grade. F6c+ to top-rope. Nettle Wine E5 6b Cratcliffe Hard moves between breaks, but with good rests Tor and gear at your feet. Friend 3.5 needed for the top. Strapadictomy E5 6a Froggatt SAFE Tricky (but lovely) lower arete but leads to bomber gear in the technic break and good medium nuts al into the hanging crack (awkward to place, especially so for the short who may have to put it in when they get there!), powerful lay-backing, and delicate finish. Probably more like E4 6b than E5 6a, and easier if you're gangly. F7a Climber: Julian Webb

White Wall E5 6b Millstone Technical wall climbing with spaced, good gear (if you trust RPs and a very old peg!). Soft touch for this grade, the crux is actually gaining the thin crack under the overlap (takes RP2 and RP3). F7a Spock's E5 6b Froggatt Front face of Chequers Buttress, side runners Missing either side (if you can reach into Chequers Buttress ) and safe fall-out zone should prevent injury, should you fall off the technical long reaches above Entropy's E5 6b Roaches Good RPs (though hard to place on lead) protect Jaw the brilliant friction climbing to gain and climb thin seam. Sprags obligatory. The fall from the top has been tested (solo). F7a Narcissus II E5 6b Froggatt Runout and reachy, but over quickly and with a safe fall-out zone (assuming no-one is climbing the first pitch of Valkyrie ). Calvary E5 6a/b Stanage The blunt arete left of Calvary . Pre-placed Friend Direct 2 in Calvary protects the initial long reach for very slopey ramp. F1.5's in next break and somewhat eliminate climbing using brittle crimps to join Calvary in top break (F0.5 and F2.5). Not a great route, being spoilt by close proximity to Calvary but something for the collector. F7a Moolah E5 6b Rivelin Easier than the neighbouring New Mediterranean , RP2s and HB quadcam 00 in the break. Might be 6c if you have a low crimp pain- tolerance for your finger-tips. F3ish in top break. F7a+ Diamond E5 6b Chatswor Amble up to the break (gear). Then it's a fairly Life th powerful move followed by running it out a bit on sequency and fingery ground. So long as you don't mind facing a longish fall, one to go at for an aspiring E5. Get it done. Blockbuster E5 6b/c Ramsha Essentially an alternative start to Dangerous (morph w Crocodile Snogging . Start in Chamelion Crack o) and break out right making a few technical moves to gain the 'large' hold in the middle of the wall. Finish direct. Better protected than the original line but a fall would still lead to a nasty clatter. Height dependant. Poppers E5 6c Baslow Center of the undercut wall left of Grand Potato in the Cave area. Blind dyno just above good gear in break. The E5 6c Cratcliffe Wall right of Suicide Wall , all the way to a classic Children's Tor grit step up to reach the top, with good gear just House below your feet. A real boulder problem in the sky! New E5 6c Rivelin Good RP2s in the break protect the crux, getting Mediterrane into using the obvious undercut and the reachy an stretch to the pocket. A classic. F7a+/7b The Great E5 6b Caley Quite strenuous but over quite quickly, however Flake lots of cunning is still required! Large Friend in top flake protects this classic. Stanage E5 6c Stanage Bomber gear in the break protect the hard Without sequence on slopers to gain the next goo d break. Is Oxygen it me, or can noone do this move? Shirley's E5 Stanage Solo. Extended bouldering up a very steep slab! Shining 6c/7a Fairly good landing though. Recently lost a Temple 'crucial' pebble, but reascended by Peter Robins, early 1999. Probably 7a. Scoop de E5 7a Running Solo. Problem start on tiny crimps to reach a Grace Hill Pits hanging scoop - one of the first routes to be graded 7a in the UK. Harder since a crucial hold experienced someone too heavy for it. You just don't know your own strength do you Matt? The rest doesn't look easy and is definately bold! National E5 Ramsha Well protected but hideous mantel on a skin- Acrobat 6c/7a w ripping fist-jam. Ahead of its time, or only suitable for extreme masochists? Sole Power E5 Froggatt Desperate slapping up a hanging arete, with your 6c/7a feet on nothing! Essentially an extended boulder problem, though many folk try top-roping it! Does not see many (any?) ascents. F7b+

Left Wall E5 Brimham One of the best routes on grit. 6a Steep wall climb, with spaced, good protection. Friend 2.5 useful in the middle. Crux at top SAFE involving technical undercutting but and pinching. Inverted Friend 0.5 sustain in the top pocket. F6c ed

Climber: Rick Matthews

Moon E5 Curbar Short powerful crack, good gear if you can take a hand Crack 6b off to place it, but GOD! it's powerful. Bat Out E5 Higgar Safe run-out at crux, up overhanging wall via crimpy Of Hell 6a/b Tor layback. Harder for short. Take a F2.5 for top break Perfect E5 Gardoms Long but safe run-out, hard to place gear, technical crux Day 6b moving between sloping breaks. Caricature E5 Hen Big class route. High runners in gully and 2nd belayer 6b Cloud beneath Bachelors LH reduce the danger of the nasty sequence out onto the front face and a goof flake with runne rs. One hard move using a mono and you're nearly there. F7a London E5 Millstone Big route, lots of stamina required, more gear than you Wall 6a have probably got energy to place. First crack is the technical crux; rest, easier crack, rest, leave the rack, and final heave to the top. F7a/7a+ for effort. Goosey E5 Stanage Well protected, but desperate to stop and place gear. No Goosey 6a rest points available, mean this is a serious sandbag at Gander E4 in guidebooks! Offspring E5 Burbage Amazing wander along the break and groove of the 6b South Cioch block. Starting from an abseil to the arete (or belay if you can convince anyone to hang there). Good small Friends protect the crux, moving up the groove and rolling onto the top. On Stone Monkey , Dawes deliberately obstained from gear en route to create a more photo-exciting fall - nutter. Pacific E5 Stanage High side-runners on left and right protect this very Ocean 6b crimpy wall - has been done with only the RH side- Wall runner. Reachy, and desperate to on-sight without chalked up holds! F7a+ Headless E5 Stanage Reachy overlap climbing, like much of Stanage really, Chicken 6b through the overhangs left of Off With His Head . The crux is gaining the hanging pocket near the top. Heath E5/6 Stanage A fine route, and the finish is as slopey as you'd Robinson 6b imagine. Eminently photogenic too. Nasty start ("E3??") made more comfortable with a 00 Quadcam, sustained 'breaking', and the top top-out: F1.5 to 0.5 handy. F7a in anything other than freezing fog. Indian E5/6 Stanage Break to break climbing, so should be reasonably well Summer 6c protected, though looks like a bold and brittle first half, though this was part of an old E3, BP Super that traversed to the big flake of Tower Face . Might be E6 6c since some pebbles(?) came off: let me know if you've done it.

The Knock E4/5 Burbage Short arete, crux is getting to the jug at half height, 5c South but which of the following protects the top? Is it: (a) small opposing wires (b) a very small Friend (c) a skyhook on the jug, (d) no poncing about, a 00 peanut, or (e) a spotting team with cushions? Make your choice (you may choose more than one) and make the final " 5b " moves to safety. More beta available from Rob Harper here [opens new window] . Green E5 Millstone Desperate 6b start (or pile of stones) though Death 5c confidence boost of doing start makes upper bit (6b easier. VS 4c to two thirds height where one (5b) start) move gains ledge to clip old peg from (spooky for the short). Awkward moves above to finish. Has been soloed (ie. without peg) for " fun ". Silver E5 Froggatt Sling on lowest chockstone, and F0.5s to the right Lining 5c/6a give distant protection for the precarious BOLD laybacking above - easy to do the moves, hard to and stick to the same sequence. A jumping (ie. technic sacrificial) belayer might make it relatively safe. al F6a+ On The Air E5 Wharncliffe F0.5 in the thin break on the front face protects the 6a hard 6a moves up to gain the next (non) break, where a dodgy looking F2.5 to the left will give little comfort. One sharp pull on a sharp pocket should see you to the next break, better gear, easier climbing and a enormous sense of well being. F6c Nature E5 Roaches, Better than the guidebook suggests: hard pull onto Trail 6b Skyline the slab, F2s and F2.5 in low pocket (you don't need gear in Wings ), and blast up the slab with the last move being the crux. F6c Edge Lane E5 Millstone The democratic process works: this is no longer in 5c the SAFE catagory. Straightforward climbing with inverted Rock 8/9 (on cord) to protect upper section. Thought by some to be low in the grade though others feel its 'ard... Best climbed ground-up over a lifetime.

Pseudonym E5 Black Unprotected rock-over over bulge onto slab (At 6b Rocks last! A move that's easier for the short!). Long reach to rounded break, gear and rounded arete climbing. Has been onsighted. Low in the grade? F6c+ The E5 Rivelin Poor RPs or RnRs, small Alien and thread behind Tempest 6a/b very hollow flake is all the (shit) protection for the reasonably straight-forward but intimidating rock- overs above. RPs and HB quadcam 00 in the top break. Has been on-sighted. F6c Artless E5 Froggatt Solo. Tricky dyno or very high rockover gains the 6b sloping ramp, followed by technical moves up the ramp lead to Great Slab. Reasonable landing with spotting team; much easier for the tall, they should find something challenging like Great Slab or something. F6c for everyone else Hairless E5 Froggatt I might yet put this into the SAFE catagory. Yes, Heart 5c SAFE. It's got gear: a reasonable skyhook on the ledge of Great Slab and an poor RP1 at the base of the flake. Very much faith-in-friction climbing. F6a Great E5 Millstone Hardest of the trio of E5s around here. One useless Arete 5c runner above stance with hard moves to pass it, eases afterwards. Thin Air E5 Roaches, Solo. Hard (but nice) rock-over 6a Lower Tier leads to easily fluffable finishing stretch. Bad landing.

Climber: Julian Webb

Origin Of E5 Froggatt Low Friends, hard rockover on the pocketed slab, The 6a and a nasty finish. RP0, and Rock'n'Rollers 1 and 2 Species are the crap gear in the top break. F6b+ Poached E5 Bamford The arete to the right of Curving Crack until the Salmon 6b high break (medium Friends), then head for the flake at the top of the slab, via some cunning pebble manouvers. F7a Track Of E5 Roaches Powerful start, technical groove, culminating in an The Cat 6a insecure, smeary reach for the top, with gear a little too far away for comfort (Good gear in low pocket and RPs in groove). F6c

Over The E5 Ravenstones Takes the wall/groove left of Black Mountain Moors 6b Collage , above Pulpit Ridge . Good wire pocket available. Named after the first line of The Smith's song about the Moors Murderers. Dead Heat E5 Wharncliffe Solo. No gear with hideous landing but steady. 6b Climb a slab (5c) to a small overlap. Undercut this and reach crimps, step above the overlap, and lay one up for the final reach/slap for the top. Heartless E5 Froggatt Solo. Technically not too bad if Hare 6a you trust your feet and go steady. Has one very worrying smear move above the niche to reach sharp crimpy edges. F6a+

Climber: Graham Hewitt

Pebble Mill E5 Burbage Solo. Hard arete climbing and reachy finale above a 6b South unfriendly landing. More beta available from Rob Harper here [opens new window] . Swooper E5 Stanage Solo, though use a lashed-down belayer. Short but 6a hard slab climb. First ascent climbed by Dawes on- sight, wire brushing as he went. You'll probably need to take one yourself. Sow's That E5 Brimham Powerful pull off the 6b one-finger pocke t in the overlap to smear up slab, with gear just below your feet. However the real crux is the hard rockover higher up - don't fall off

this one!! F6c+ Climber: Readza

Curving E5 Black Solo. Hardest moves to start and to gain first good Arete 6b Rocks hold on arete, above a gruesome landing. The rest is straightforward and much easier. Early Riser E5 Earl Crag Solo. Hard for the grade, but a beautiful line. 6a Tension builds as you gain height up the groove to the crux reach for the top with feet bridged against the very lip of the ramp, miles above a nightmare landing. Very unnerving as you really need to throw your weight forward over your feet to make the foot holds feel secure. A nasty F6b+

High E5 Caley Awesome hanging sharp arete. Lack of any gear above Noon 6a the junction with an HVS and sustained insecure climbing make this nudge up from E4 to E5. Ai No E5 Burbage Short but action-packed hanging arete right of The Fin. Corrida 6b North Climbed with a side-runner on the right which isn't much use unless a side-rope is used. F7a Mr Mojo E5 Wharncliffe Solo where it matters. Technical, fingery climbing all Rising 6b the way to the break, where you can place good medium Friends, relax, and romp over the roof and up the headwall. A complete sandbag at E4. F6c/6c+. White E5 Stanage Solo. Tricky heel-hook/smear move to start the Wand 6a sustained laybacking up the arete proper (bit harder for the short, but not excessively so). Landing poor - spotters and blow-up bouncy castle useful. Many people think this is hard for E5 (it might go up to E6 in the new guidebook) but for some reason I think it's bog-standard E5: however, who am I to argue with the EASY democratic process? F6b+

BOLD Juan E5 Ramshaw The very steep arete left of The Untouchables . With and Cur 6a F1.5s and F2s in the break and a large (H9+) Hex in sustain the obvious slot, slap up to a nasty undercut move and ed better holds. Here the original line traversed left, but it makes more sense to finish up The Untouchables . A HARD Meshuga for the E5 leader! F6c Clive E5 Roaches, Fritghening slab padding with gear in the flake of Coolhead 6b Lower Tier Elegy and in The Bulger - grade can vary from E4-E6 ... depending how far up The Bulger you put gear, although you may find the crux of the whole route to be the off-width of The Bulger ! Ok, by popular request, the full route name is: CLIVE COOLHEAD REALISES THE EXCITEMENT OF KNOWING YOU MAY BE THE AUTHOR OF YOUR OWN DEATH IS MORE INTENSE THAN ORGASM . F7a Reach E5 Brimham Two F0.5s under the roof protect as you crank on the For The 6b one finger pocket to cross through for the runnel, and Stye catch the pocket. Place a Slider 1 semi-blind and over your fingers (RnR1 too small, maybe RnR2?) or clip the pre-placed one (advised). From the next pocket it's a bloody long way to a sloping top. Airbourne exit at this stage is ill advised, especially if you don't own the correct gear.

The E5 Ilkley Effectively solo. Very bold steep climbing up a Marine 6a brilliant looking scoop. Who Slept In Science E5/6 Froggatt Very top end of the grade. Gear in the break at half- Friction 6a height is virtually redundant for the intricate friction moves above. Needs cleaning. F6c

Grit E6 If bold E5's are dangerous, bold E6's are deadly. E6 was the top dog's currency during the early 80's, as sticky rubber enabled hitherto unthinkable smearing. Onsights of grit E6's are still incredibly rare, particularly the bold ones.

Page Menu Introduction E5 E6 E7 E8 E9 LGPs

The E6s

High and E5/6 Bamford A direct on an earlier route The Egg , hard move Dry 6a/b into scoop but surprisingly well protected (F0.5 in slot) and a scary, dirty exit from it (F0, maybe RPs in break). Not as good as the line looks, unfortunately. Those over 6ft can only claim E5 6a. F6c Camel Hot E5/6 Black Good small Friends protect this little hanging 6b Rocks arete, featuring hard slapping (or jump) to SAFE sloping break (F0.5s) and then tricky lay-backing but up final arete. Quite dirty - needs cleaning or a technical proper summer. F7a+ Salmon Left- E6 Bamford Can be nearly independent from The Salmon if Hand (aka 6b climbed as follows: from the break (good gear, F2s- Trout ) 3s), move up using both the two-finger pocket on the right, and the larger low pocket on the left (Flexi- Friend 2.5). Some tricky slab climbing direct from here leads to a worrying move to gain the top, via the slight groove, or a big fall. RP's protect the lower wall (as for Jetrunner ). E5 for the tall. F7a+

Make It E6 Gardoms Get your camera out! A low swing around from Snappy 6b The Crocodile and undercut up for a hole in the break on the arete itself. A good RP4 and F1 in pockets in the break on the left, then a great move to reach up, round and right for a flatty. Some gritstone cunning involving hidden pockets and the top (F2 en route) - the best crux sequence on grit . F6c+ Mothers E6 Millstone Links the 1st pitch of London Pride with its Pride 6c 'claimed' direct finish Which way now ... in one long pitch, good value. Has the top pitch ever been repeated? Not at its reported E4 6b! More likely E5 6c. Master of E6 Stanage Arete left of Chameleon from Neil Foster. Well- Disguise 6b protected (gear in crack just left of Chameleon 's ramp - RP5) and straightforward, but probably very reachy! Skinless E6 Stanage Takes the wall and roof left of Stanage Without Wonder 6c Oxygen , complete with awful belly-flop mantel finish. Well protected testpiece. 9 O'Clock E6 Stanage Arete right of Paranoid, climbed on the right. Watershed 6c Powerful and little bit scary as your last gear is in Tippler . Probably wise to use a back-rope Rollercoaster E6 Ramshaw Nadin mystery route up the short steep wall-cum- 6c prow left of the sandbag HVS offwidth of Imposition . Any more details? Script Of A E6 Roaches Solo. Extremely hard slab climb which eases Tear 6c with height. Not a great landing. A bit of a pointless filler-in route really. The Obscene E6 Bridestones Relatively well protected but desperate entry into Cleft 6c the flared groove. For a long time a LGP until finally led by John Dunne and later on-sighted by Gareth Parry who didn't know it had been led at all. Desert Island E6 Earl Crag Hard problem start (used to be given 6b!) leads to some Arete 6c wide breaks with bomber gear (large friends? Sling on spike), then a runout up the wall right of the arete (easier). Has been onsighted by Gareth Parry (2nd ascent). The photo in the old Yorkshire gui debook is rumoured to be staged.

Thing On A E6 Roaches, Safe fall-out zone beneath very hard wall Spring 7a Lower Tier climbing up a slight ramp. Repeated by Kevin Shaw (after about 20 falls! Now THAT is keen). Pebble removed since by Paul Clark, glued back on by Justin Critchlow. Named after a truly dreadful Spectrum computer game. Has now been repeated by Andy Turner at E6 7a. Flight of E6 Stanage The left arete of Tower Face, climbed on the Ideas 7a right-hand side, is particularly hard from the last break to the top. Good gear in the breaks. F7c. Unrepeated? China E6 Almscliffe Rob Gawthorpe's finest hour! First climbed in Syndrome 7a 1980, and only repeated twice (both about 17 years later!) hence this has been upgraded to E6 on the principle that Fawcett, Manson and Dunne must have tried it in the past with no success. Very powerful moves to get feet up and slap round for the pocket, with gear at your feet. F7c at least I would have thought. Just For E6 Roaches, The very hard slab left of Barriers In Time , Today 7a Lower Tier with side-runners in Ackit and Barriers . Hard for the tall, impossible for the short? Unrepeated? Against The E6 Roaches, Well protected wall climb from Nadin. Has lost Grain 7a Lower Tier pebbles over the years but had now been repeated. F7c Toy Boy E6/7 Froggatt Solo. Really hard and reachy crimp linking. "Step 7a L off boulder then up and L onto hold size of little fingernail. No handhol ds? I can just reach between this and next finger holds hanging off rope. " - 6 ft. PAUL CLARK A Little E6 Roaches Elegy Direct. Impossible mantel onto slab Particular 7b protected by side-runners either side (chockstone in the crack) and RPs low down. Unrepeated, as no-one else can do the move: a one-armed mantle from hanging - no feet!

SAFE Moonshine E5/6 Curbar Sustained and powerful laybacking all the way up, and between, but unhelpful thin cracks. Micronuts and Friend 1.5 protect but hard 6b to place, though you can easily reverse from the top piece of gear. sustained Very low end E6, more like a butch E5. Barriers In E6 Lower Tricky start (jump!) to reach Time 6b Tier, first break, followed by lovely Roaches climbing up the scalloped spur (harder for the short). Good Friends in the second break permit a long, scraping fall to be taken from the hard layback moves above (though you can

hit the ledge on the right - talk Climber: Johnny Dawes to Gary Gibson). The last reach © R.Heap will remain in your memory for a long time! Scary. F6c+

Shock Horror E6 Rocky One of the best! Parthian Shot for the E6 leader. 6b Valley, Good wires behind the hanging block, and sneeky Ilkley Friends in the horizontal break just up and left are the only gear for the sustained pocket tricks all the way up that blunt rib. The fall from the top is said to be a " privilege ". F6c+ Cool Moon E6 Curbar Very high side-runners in Moon Walk , small nut 6c near the start and 2 F0.5s en route protect the despo' moves to start (very reachy!) and pumpy climbing to gain the curving crack. Has been soloed without side-runner at E7. F7b Coun terstroke E6 Far The slab just right of Wings ; F2 in that pocket, a of Equity 6c Skyline, delicate combination of intense smearing and Roaches frantic scratching topped off with a dynamic finish. Bon Apettite! Block and E6 Higgar Neil Foster route up left-hand arete of the block, Tackle 6c Tor starting up Sander before swinging round onto a jug and good gear in break (Friends 1 & 1.5). Very powerful slapping up the arete follows. Milky Way E6 Ilkley Butch crack climbing finishing with a gruelling 6b off-width (often wet). Used to be easier with a chockstone to grapple with. E6 in latest guidebook.

Art Nouveau E6 Far Brilliant undercutting exercise on rising overlap, 6c Skyline, protected by small RPs (HB4) which, Roaches unfortunately, are very tricky to place - word reaches me now that the main placement has demised - solo only now, I'm afraid . The landing is pretty good. On-sighted by Dawes in the 80s: amazing. The Fall E6 Curbar Good but spaced protection with hard moves to 6b reach every gear placement and the top! Takes a very wandering line on the wall left of Profit Of Doom , to finish laybacking the arete. Hard move leaving the first bit of gear, it then eases but gets bold as you head up the arete. Hard for the short. The Crypt E6 Stanage Very hard and pumpy climbing between breaks - Trip 6b superb. Way hard for E5! Tricky start (can get F0.5 and F0 in undercut on left) to the first break (F2 & HB4 on left) where you face two dilemas: having a good F1.5 or a good hold, and how to do the huge reach. Once in the next break (F1.5 & F1) one more hard move to gain the pocket and easier climbing. F7b/7b+. Janus E6 Curbar Tricky climbing up the groove to join Rigid 6b/c Digit . The gear is small wires, which are frustratingly hard to place - use a small inverted cam at the bottom to hold the first piece and stop all the gear stripping when you fall. Very blind crux to move into Rigid Digit . Northern E6 Roaches, Obvious 'LGP' just above Valkyrie 's flake. Was a Comfort 6c Lower Nadin project (surprise, surprise!) until Grimer Tier bagged it. Very reachy. Messiah E6 Burbage Bold, steep and exquisite 6c South climbing up to the break (F0.5 essential) and desperate above, though might be easier if you're a little power merchant. Very on-sightable, though some mootings that it's more like E7. F7b+. Has been on-sighted!

Climber: Readza

Master Of E6 Hen A gritstone tufa - and overhanging! This is one of Reality 6c Cloud the most outstanding grit routes on the western edges. Good gear on the bottom wall (RP2, HB Tricam 0.5) protects the hard static or dyno (easier for the short!) to the break (wire, F1.5). A brilliant, powerful sequence moves you up the vein. Like cold weather, an absolute must! F7b+ Giggling E6 Brimham A violent start gains the crack Crack 6c which widens disgustingly with height. Nearly ascended by Joe Brown in the 1700s until an untimely fit of mirth precipitated his downfall. Would probably still be

mascerading as an E2 if he'd Climber: Matt Gallagher succeeded. Head-jam obligatory. I was going to give this a French grade until I realized the French just don't climb off-widths.

Wristcutter's E6 Wimberry The best E6 on grit? A totally brilliant line up a Lullaby 6c brilliant lump of rock, taking in a technical wall climbing, pebble-pulls and scary roof yarding. RP3 protects the initial crack (pre-placed and preclipped on first ascent), medium Friends in the pockets, and rusty old death-bolts in the roof. Amazing!

Particle E6 6c Roaches, Solo. Here you are, the softest touch E6 in Exchange (E4 6b) Lower Tier the world. Do it before the new guide comes out! Is likely to be the same as a route claimed in the late 80s, Doug-less at E3 6b! The arete opposite the electricity substation on the BIG boulder near the cottage. An easy crack leads to a tricky rockover on unhelpful slopers. Is pretty safe with a mat.

BOLD and technical Narcissus E6 6b Froggatt Solo. Soft touch for the grade, as it's been getting too many on-sights recently, and the landing isn't that poor - though it has broken a few ankles before now. A good E4 with a good bouldering mat? Has been on-sighted.

Nosferatu E6 6b Burbage A brilliant route, though perhaps a gift at South this grade - nice, slightly dynamic climbing leads to a small pocket (skyhook, stacked RP1 and HB3), and a great rockover move. Can finish up the right arete, but it's much better to put some small/medium Friends in and dyno straight for the top! Has been on-sighted. F6c+ Ou Est Le E6 6b Roaches, Solo. Compelling little gem of a route. Spit upper tier Great moves, terrible landing, insecure. Worth (SOFT NYLON!) brushing the nightmare sloping top before you try the on-sight. Has been on-sighted. F6c. Life E6 6b Burbage Very bold slab, short but Assurance South insecure. Gear in the low break but you should get away with it if you have a very nifty belayer, though hitting the ledges on the right whilst tumbling is not a particularly

appealing prospect. I've Climber: Noel Curtis heard this fall has now been tested - no groundfall. Easier for the tall, perhaps only E5 6a. Has been on-sighted. F6b+

Brazil E6 6b Moorside The blunt arete left of Moorside Crack , Rocks using a pocket, a toe-hook and a slopey finish. Nasty cheesegrater-type landing, the thin break at half-height takes an RP2 and RnR1 but they are really shit! F6c+. Hairy Heart E6 6a Froggatt Solo. Easy on a top-rope, but so bold. If you trust your feet, a doddle. Best done in combination with Artless . Has been on- sighted. F6a Catastrophe E6 6c Roaches, Solo. Hard pebble pulls above a hard Internationale Lower Tier landing. Apache Dawn probably uses some of the same holds, and the easiest way to climb this wall is with half of each route.

I Bet He E6 6c Curbar Solo. This innocuous direct start to Tube Drinks Of Fosters utilises everything from Carling Black egyptians, pockets, slopers, crimps, Label dynamic slapping and jamming to gain the top. Only short but with a nasty landing to the right - use a belayer to pull you leftwards if you come off. An RP1 (or filed down Wallnut 00) can be fiddled into the small crack, but is too low to protect going for the crack. A brilliantly technical F7a+/7b.

Defying E6 6b Stanage Very technical sequences between breaks Destiny and a dirty grovelling finish (easier on the left). When the guide says " uninspiring friend protection " it does actually mean it! F0.5 on the right and a F1 in the middle 'protect' in the second break - neither are particularly great. Possibly easier if you're short. Has been onsighted: by Mike Lea and Graham Hoey at least. F7a when you know the sequence. Slip'n'Slide E6 6a Crookrise Solo. Very hard and bold ramp line, with big reach off smears for top holds and some scary cranking - not to be underestimated! Must have been hard for Fawcett in EBs. Has been on-sighted. F6b+ Ulysses Or E6 6b Curbar Solo. Quite tricky arete that you never do Bust the same way twice (one of those). Landing varies from 'not great' to 'unthinkable', depending where and how you fall off. Flashed by Dawes minutes after the first ascent, first on-sight by Hoey in 1986 who thought it was " only E4 really " - obviously climbing well at the time, Graham! Was E6 when it first came out, and is F7a to top-rope Guillotine E6 6b Ilkley Solo. Very hard and frequently dirty arete that is well worth three stars. Dynamic, fingery, powerful and very blind. Successful on-sighters should be very pleased with themselves. F7a/7a+ Gibbering E6 6c Gib Tor Solo. The large roof mentioned as a 7a top- Wreck rope in the 1989 guide. A bit of a corporate affair: Moffatt toproped it first, either Ben Moon or Andy Brown soloed it first, and Sam Whittaker named it! High-ball problem effectively with mats and spotters. Grimoire E6 6c Cratcliffe Solo. An esoteric gem lurking on the prow below ...Cider Woman . Takes the arete on the RH side. "Short and brilliant! " [Martin Veale, 1st acs.]

Weather E6 6c Stanage Solo. Crux slap over a bulge on slopers Report leads to precarious 6b moves. Needs a brushing. F7b Bloodstone E6 6b Roaches Kit under over-lap and low in The Mincer Lower Tier (F4), then the slab direct, easing with height, to join and finish up Kicking Bird . Led by Nadin in 1982 with EBs! F7a Velvet Silence E6 6c Black Solo. Very hard mantel onto the 'gutte r' but Rocks just within bouldering height. Very insecure slab moves above this. Not a single pebble on the whole slab! Has been onsighted by an on-form Dawes. F7a+ Committed E6 6b/c Curbar Solo. Very small holds provide a crux start (6c for the short) and tricky (6b) finish, with the ground sweeping increasingly away. Might be only E5 for the very tall. Has been on-sight soloed by Popp, Nadin and Hoey, though not at the same time! Peter And E6 6b Hen Cloud Solo. Andy Popp offering up the wall left The Wolf of Fast Piping . Nice pocket work leads to the finale hard move: undercutting to reach (long!) the break. A Day E6 6c Stanage Solo. Short wall above and behind Fina Without Pay from Mike Lea. Basically two hard moves, above a cluttered boulder choke - eek!

Piece Of E6 6b Lower Tier, Solo. Incredible pre-Fires route from the Mind Roaches Woodward brothers in 1977! A tricky arete is followed to a committing step right and slopey finish. Johnny Dawes attempted to on-sight this route, jumped off and only sprained his ankle! Bad landing - nasty - but only one or two nasty moves. Rumoured to have a good Peanut 3 in the low crack, though I couldn't get it to stick, and it wouldn't protect the crux anyway. Has this been onsighted yet? F6c.

The Cool E6 6b/c Stanage Hard friction for your feet, sharp pebbles Curl for your fingers, a few Friends for your rope, and some worry for your head. The moves are very reminicent of The Salmon Direct , but you'll probably be ok if you fall off. "Extremely frightning " - 1989 Stanage Guidebook. F7a+/7b Boys Will Be E6 6b Stanage Solo. Balancy wall climbing with long Boys reaches, too far from the ground for much comfort, even though the landing is reasonable (mind the ledge). Crux is gaining hidden finger pocket on the left near the arete. You can go straight up, but this is much more like 6c. Gear arrives after all the hard climbing (Friend 1.5) but is welcome none-the-less. Technical and pumpy - F7a+. A Fist Full of E6 6b Roaches, Solo. Very unobvious, blind moves to gain Crystals Lower Tier height up the central groove and to the top. Thought by some to be perhaps E7 for an onsight, which would make it perhaps the first on grit? However, others feel it is a path! Hey ho... Scarpa Flow E6 6c Stanage An Andy Barker route with a great name up the left-hand side of the overlap and wall left of The Mangler . Tied-off F0.5s under the roof give some protection for hard crank for the slopey niche. Barker's original line moved right and attacked the middle of the wall via some pebble pulling exploits; Mike Lea finished direct up the arete, see Dreadnaught (E7) for the right-hand finish. F7b Big Air Ungradable Stanage Solo. A unique experience, taking the 2 6b metres of air above a palm-sweating chasm to a reasonable pocket and quick climbing to the top. Jump is the crux and climbing easier for shorties, while tallies find the opposite. Has been on-sighted.

Dog Eye Rib E6 6b+ Hen Cloud Solo, unless you have a RnR1, and hard. It is possible to start direct up the arete, rather than from the block in the gully, via some hard dynamics (6c?). All the pockets are worse than they look, one taking (just) a RnR1. A wonderfully technical slap+stretch for slopies and the finish of nightmares. Has been onsight soloed by Sam Whittaker. F7a+/7b Grace and E6 6c Stanage Solo. Eases with height, but still ankle- Danger breaking. Dyno off undercuts or hard static move for slopey pocket. Easier for the tall - F7b. Charlotte E6 6b Gardoms Solo. Very hard physical moves above an Rampling awful landing. F7b Slackers E6 6b Curbar Solo. Short but bold direct start to Diet of Worms . A long reach to start (the short may have to dyno or come in on the slopers on the left), and a delightful rock-up (easier if you have little legs) lead to an elegant layback up the arete or powerful reach up and left. F4 in Climber: Readza break and the rest of Diet which is just lovely! Dreadful landing: it's a good idea to have a belayer pull you leftwards if you come off. Has been 'beta- flashed'. F7a

Desperate E6 6b Ilkley Solo. And I don't care if it's gone up to E7 Dan in the new guide - many people consider this benchmark Yorkshire E6. Hard move to leave the boulder and get established on the arete, more hard balance moves (particularly for the short - reachy) gain some better pockets and the ledge. Could be very nasty if you fell off badly. Has been onsighted. F7a+ish Dragon's E6 6b Wharncliffe The smart direct finish to Cardinal's Hoard Treasure from Simon Jones. A nasty move to reach a side pull just under the small overlap, and a very delicate step up to the break. Used to have an good RP2 placement, but this has gone since FMD made Wharncliffe popular. RP1, RnRs 1 & 2, and very low RP3 provide limited moral support. Might be E7. F7b Benign Lives E6 6b Froggatt Solo. Very hard slab climbing above an appalling landing; E7? Would be hard to on-sight as the slab gives nothing away other than red-herrings. Harder for the short (well I find it impossible, anyway). Filling the gap up with rucksacs and crashmats is just plain cheating, and reduces this to a tick of very much lower magnitude. F7b to toprope.

Ressurection E6 Brimham Not a solo. F1.5 at the start and some reasonable 6b wires en route protect most of the ok moves up the twisting grooves to the right of Left Wall , except the long reach near the top of the groove, BOLD though there is an RP0/1 here-abouts to offer you and some comfort. F6c+. sustained Aretenophobia E6 Hen The stunning blunt rib left of Chameleon , with a 6b Cloud side-runner placed in that route on lead, to protect the start. Not sure whether this should be in the SAFE catagory? Epiphany E6 Froggatt A bit of an anomaly this one: (LH) 6b first climbed on the RH side by Phil Burke in the early 80s, has since seen attention and the LH side climbed at E6 6b, probably first by Ben Heason during his on-sight solo (with a direct start)! Ok Friends in the break at half height - feel distant when high up the arete - harder for the Climber: Readza short. F7a+ for LH version. "When the route was first done I thought you would have been stupid to climb the arete on the left (ever heard of following the line of least resistance). This was before the days of [getting] two routes from 6 holds. I did not claim the line, as it was possib le to step right at will, until the final moves. I did however tell Geoff Birtles of the ascent ... I have recently repeated the route in the manner described above and would confirm E4. " Phil Burke, Jan '01.

Judge Dread E6 Nth Very bold sustained wall climbing. Pre-placed 6b Cloud, RP1 can be clipped before the crux, but only if it Roaches has an extender on it!

Jugged Hare E6 Froggatt Solo. Very sustained slab climbing and tricky 6a pull up to headwall and gear. Might be able to protect with a tied-down skyhook. Has been soloed on-sight. F6b+ Peas in Mind E6 Curbar Solo. The right arete of Peapod . Very insecure 6a fingery climbing with the crux a long way up! Eternal E6 Gorple Big, steep and rounded arete - reasonably 6b protected by good gear below your feet when on the crux gaining the slopey top. Has been onsighted. Ulysses E6 Stanage Solo. Committing classic arete with crux at the 6b top. Good landing but too far away. Ankle- breaker if you manage to land upright. Has been on-sighted by Dawes; very nearly on-sighted by Foster. Modern crashmat addicts may only claim it as E5, if that. The crux is getting easier thanks to wire-brushing idiots, now a paltry F6c to toprope.

Fatal E6 Froggatt Solo? This recently claimed route takes the slab Attraction 6b just right of Science Friction and must be barely independent. Darkness E6 Stanage Scoop immediately right of Grace and Danger ; Falling 6c serious even with low gear in break on right. Unrepeated? F7b Bloodspeed E6 Roaches Gear under over-lap and low-down in The 6b Lower Mincer are all that protect you as you shuffle Tier rightwards on smears and minimal handholds, trying not to think of your rope sawing on the lip if you fall. If only you didn't have to look down at your feet! Slightly easier for the tall, but feels like 6b most of the way. F7a+/7b Linden E6 Curbar Brilliant face climbing, despite the chips. Very hard 6b move (6b) to leave the block and gain the dodgy flakes (small wires, sling, Camalot 3) then sustained 6a crimpy wall climbing (sequency!) to gain the better holds and the top (very bold) before a flash pump occurs. One of the flakes is rumoured to be lassoo- able from the ground, therefore protecting the technical crux. Definately not one to throw a wobbler on, might be hard for the grade now that placements higher up have gone (did take HB2 and HB3, but I couldn't get anything in here). Phil Davidson on-sight soloed it in 1982 (without sticky rubber?). F7a+ to toprope. Parallel Lines E6/7 Hen Not been led yet without side runners. Looks 6c Cloud easy doesn't it? Deceptive gear at mid height (small RPs, aliens) which tends to rip when you fall onto it; well someone has been unlucky enough to break their wrist testing it! F7b+ The Grand E6 Baslow The very undercut right arete of the Cave Block. Potato 6b From the obvious slot, power up past a good F2 placement to the top break (F2 and crucial F0.5 - hard to place and very easy to pop out, but has held a short fall). The top arete looks like it should be easy but isn't! F7b

Never Never E6 Ramshaw Classic, physical frightener from Nadin. F5/6 in Land 6b the top of the crack is the only good gear available. Don't kid yourself a skyhook, RPs and other assorted tiny bits of kit in the really hollow flake will protect the dynamic moves up the steep wall - they don't, as they have been tested in action now. Phew, you've made it the sloping ramp - all your troubles are over, yeah? Wrong! The crux of this route is easily the very last move - a nervy, balance-ridden mantle on the slopey shelf to reach better holds, out of sight, where a fall is not even worth considering. Loads easier if you're over 6'1" - a steady E5 6a tick only, I'm afraid. F6c+ Painted E6 Roaches, Awsome route going all Rumour 6a Upper the way up and over the Tier roof left of The Sloth . Loads of psychological gear at the back of the roof, some well-scary yarding to the 'cave', and a spike runner, then the crux - pulling into the vertical

using rugosities. No-hands rest possible with your Climber: Colin Maddox legs jammed in the hole - it's true: I've watched Colin Maddox peel and eat a banana upside down on lead. (The things some folk will do for an OTE photo-shoot). Has been on-sighted by Ben Bransby.

Wall of Sound E6 Stanage F1.5 and medium wire in the crack are good, but 6b much lower than one would like! One crucial, poor nut (placement very poor now) at the top of the crack barely protects the hard moves on crimpy slopers (hint: an ancient Hamitic language?). Finishing direct from them, using the pocket for the right-hand might push it up to E7 I think. Steep F7b

Careless E6 Stanage Solo. Although the crux is the boulder problem Torque 7b start, the upper arete is not easy and is probably solid 6c and worth E6 in its own right. Has now been relagated to a hard highball Font8a+, thanks to Malc Smith. Still think it would stop the avergae E6 leader in their tracks...!

Grit E7 6c moves, with serious injury potential. E7's on grit are created entirely after toproping (even Master's Edge), though the number of on-sights are creeping up, probably about 7 currently.

Page Menu Introduction E5 E6 E7 E8 E9 LGPs

The E7s

Jumpin' On E7 Black Rocks Solo. Once over the gutter, step left and make one A Beetle 6c delicate step up to the arete. Spotters advised. It only just fits into the 'safe' category, but is low in the grade. KP Nuts E7 Roaches, Solo. Strange bouldery route from Nadin, taking 6c Lower Tier the bulging wall left of Ascent of Man . Safe with good spotting team, and gear in the break. Unrepeated? SAFE but techni cal

Chocolate E7 Wilton One Despite the New Lancs. guide stating there are Girl 6c four pegs there are actually only two (the first two mentioned - although the first one of them looks old, and could even be from the aid days of 1969!). The second peg looks good and protects the crux, not a 'wild slap' if you use the footholds! Friend 2 or Quadcam 2 provide sanity afterwards. F7c/7c+ The Salmon E7 Bamford Recently re-climbed and 6c upgraded by Dawes after a 'crucial' pebble disappeared, this is low in the grade at E7, but only because of the fallout zone. Good gear in break just above half height (F2-3s) followed by hard friction moves with HUGE fall potential to worry about on the final hard moves going right to Climber: Matt Gallagher pockets and the top. The best route of its type on gritstone. Many variations have sprung up around this routes recently: see here for descriptions. Not sure whether Dawes' line has been repeated. F7b

Cock Robin E7 Froggatt Takes the overhang and slab just to the right of 6c/7a Strapadictomy with gear in that route. One hideous mantel on the hanging block since the slab above it offers no handholds. Possibly easier for those with short legs. Back-rope useful to prevent a painful encounter with the lower arete. F7c Crack And E7 Curbar A new route from John Arran, giving Moon Slab 7a Crack a direct finish via an impossibly hard mantel onto the top slab. Gear in the wide break at the top of the crack. Unrepeated?

Fast E7 Ilkley Somewhat of an eliminate but well protected and Forward 6c/7a interestingly slopey! Climbs the scoop and hideous finish at the far right-hand end of the Cow. Strappotente E7 Froggatt The overhang and brief slab right of Cock Robin . 7a Solo up to the lip (gear) " before an extremely powerful roll-over and pebble pull to finish. Independent of other up routes too. " [Seb Grieve] . Reachy. Unrepeated? Groove Is In E7 Stanage The obvious central groove right of Stanage The Heart 7a Without Oxygen . Small RPs in the break protect hard moves over the bulge on crimps and slopers - looks deceptively easy. F8a? Warm Love E7 Cowperstone Dawes esoteria: the direct finish to Snug... 7b involves a dynamic throw for a heel smear to reach the pebble. Brilliant! Unrepeated? Little E7 Stanage The blunt, hanging arete just right of Stanage Women 7a Without Oxygen on alarmingly non-existant holds. At least I think it's safe ... well, let's hope so, eh? Unrepeated? Happy Hart E7 Curbar Ahead of its time (climbed by Dr John Hart in 7a? 1987). Protected by high side-runners in Scroach (which, incidentally, is more like E4 than E2) the thin seam is attacked via desperate (read impossible) moves. A side-rope would probably be a good idea to reduce the swing. F8a at least to top-rope. Unrepeated?

Fat E7 6c Eastwood Big roof climb but with reasonable holds and Slapper Rocks protection, just a long way between them! Crux slap around lip finishes what is likely to become an obscure gem, especially as climbing at Eastwood Rocks is banned. Unrepeated?

SAFE but sustai ned

Beau E7 6c Froggatt Rightly restored to its proper grade. The

Geste epitome of a grit 6c move, harder than 1st ascent report it was since the demise of half the from pebble. Small RPs (2 and 3) in groove, Climber May '82 2 Friend 2.5s in break on right, crucial Rock 1 or RP3 (better) in crack after crux, if you can place it. (To place this is certainly the crux move of the route, being harder than the pebble move, unless you know the cunning trick!) Two belayers required to reduce swing around arete. Top arete solid 6b, with cunning toe-hook move. Just don't stand on what's left of the pebble! John Redhead is rumoured to have been spat off the crux on-sight, before it was done by Johnny Woodward. The first ascent by Woodward probably had less pre-practise than most of the subsequent repeats. Still not been on- sighted. F7b+

Sad E7 6c/7a Stanage Ok gear exists in this power-fest that is certainly Amongst easier for the short (6c). A F0 on the right might Friends protect the cramped shuffle left in the second break to under the top roof, but probably better to have a big team of burly spotters. Friends 1 and 1.5 protect the desperate mantle finish. Unrepeated until relatively recently - funny one that considering it's been the cover of The Bible. F7c in 6 metres. Has been flashed!

Master's E7 6b Millstone Only enters the safe category due to the Edge protection in the shot holes at half height, which is either narrow Aliens or the original Amigos. Wolfgang Güllich placed the gear on-sight, fell onto it and lowered off. All his mates hung on the rope to test it and then Güllich ripped it falling off on his second try and broke his back. (Incidently, the first route he did afterwards was Separate Reality in the US - solo!). A great line and the first grit E7. It features continuously hard lay-backing to a final lunge for the jug at the top. F7b+ Balance It E7 6b/c Burbage Superb left arete of the Yoghurt buttress from Is South the top crack of Boggart Left-Hand . A long reach left to the arete sets you up for sustained left-hand slapping - get your skin up to the job with brillo-pad training. No single move is easier than 6b. A pocket near the top offers an RP4 placement or a hold for two fingertips - your choice! "A good sport route " [Seb Grieve, after his ascent] F7c. White E7 6b Curbar An unsung gem from Dawes, unrepeated until Lines the late 90s. Traverse in from the left or make a 6c boulder problem start on the right to gain the line of flakes. A lot of crimpy, technical moves bring a final, worrying mantelshelf for the break, and some welcome gear (F4). Finish off with exciting 6a moves over the capping roof, not thinking about the poor gear in the back of the roof. Friend 1-ish useful in the lip of overhang. F7c

Ray's E7 6c Baldstones A simple crack climb? Certainly an anomaly Roof (ungradable) when Ray Jardine brought his prototype Friends to the UK and climbed it after four days of effort, grading it 5.11 (E4) in the 1970s. For comparison, he climbed Ramshaw Crack in about 30 seconds. It then remained unrepeated until Leicester boy Steve Allan made it his obsession and finally claimed the 2nd ascent. Since then many notables have failed on it until Chris Plant got in a 3rd ascent while it wasn't looking. Begs the question - is it only E6? Rodney E7 6c Ilkley Very hard but short arete climb from Saun Mullen Rocky Myles. It's been climbed in the best of styles Valley now so we can forget all about a preplaced peg and enjoy the climbing! One peg (definately not preclipped - sorry Saun) protects the dynamic climbing. F8a The E7 6c Brimham A strange contribution from Dave Pegg. Takes Bottom the outrageous overhanging 'bums' on Cubic Line Block. Probably not a single positive hold on the whole route. Protected by friends and small in situ thread. Very much F8a. Gigantic E7 6c Wilton Not the most attractive of venues, but an One important route as it is a good one for hot summers. Free-climbs an old aid route, up a thin crack in a hanging prow. Can also be finishedup the arete instead of reaching into Adrenalin at the same grade. Fierce and technical. F8a/8a+ The E7 7a Froggatt Shortest E7 in the world? Well, outside of Screaming Wales maybe. Pure power lay-backing and slap Dream for sloping top. Nearly flashed by Ben Moon who fell off the initial moves (' when 5c is easy and 5b is approaching a rest '). Only fell to Mark Leach after his historic 50 day plus seige, but that was the first ascent. F8a+

Hairlip or E6 Froggat An eliminate through the graffiti scar just left of Hairless Balding /7 t Heart , basically using that route's footholds as handholds. 6b Skyhook runner on the ledge might protect what boils down to two moves. F7a Three E6 Burbag Solo, though you can get a good Rock'n'Roller 1 in before Blind /7 e North the crux (might make it E6), and a good RP3 after. Just Mice 6c sneeking into the Bold category, this offering from Dave Pegg climbs the awkward bulge and slab right of Long Tall Sally , via a multitude of methods, spoiled by proximity of the filth crack. F7a+

BOL Perimiter E7 Wilton Solo. Crux is right at the top: a high rockover to a good side D Walk 6b 1 pull and easier ground. F6c? and Jasmine E7 Bamfor Solo. Ron Fawcett's last big new route (Traverse of Stanage techni 6c d excepting) taking the technical steeper side of Wrinkled cal Wall via some deceptively steep crimping. Landing is not good, but the overall position is excellent.

Kaluza E7 Robin Klein ish Hood's 6c Stride

Climber Julian Webb Friends in the break and heavier, fast belayer should protect the crux, a long reach for poor flutings off a slippy smear. Only E6 for the very tall, but desperate for the very short! Dawes thought it was E8, after all. Perhaps you should take an E grade off (start at E8) for every 2 inches above 5'4" you are...? Has been on-sighted by Adam Long. Hard F7a+ on average

Shining E7 Roache Mark Katz route up the slab to the left of Private Display . Path 6c s Thin smearing. Anymore details? Perimeter E7 Wilton Solo. Fingery climbing up a blank looking wall. Climb the Walk 6b One centre of the wall until within a few feet of the top, crux. Undercut in left hand crimp in right,left leg very high, and rock over to a good side pull. Monopoly E7 Millsto Two tech. 6b moves (second one is a high rockover - crux), 6b ne possible skyhook placement on a flat pocket (becoming damaged - no more drop testing! ). Remember - tied down skyhooks are cheating, weight them if you must. Ben Heason didn't need them, he soloed this on-sight. F7a+ Monoethi E7 Gardo The wall and overlap between Moyer's Buttress and sm 6b/ ms Stormbringer . Large nuts or Friends in the back of the roof c sparingly protect the overhang but not a nasty crash into the slab below. Dangerou E7 Ramsh Weird! Roll into the 'mouth' below s 6b aw the fin of Clipperty Clop... Crocodile (LARGE Friend) and use this to Snogging get established on the LH wall, from where a commiting slap for the slopey top and some extreme scrabbling ensures victory. F7a+/7b and weird. Climber: Mark Sharratt © M.Sharrat

Agadoo E7 Leasha An obscure, odd little find. Not sure where it goes but "gear in 6c w brow crack on left and poor RP on right. hard roof on slopers, no gear. (RP1 would be desperate to place on lead). F7b " [Tom de Gay, Apr '01] ("Where?" I hear you cry) Shock Of E7 Kinder The roof of Chinese Wall. Poor gear in the break, from The New 6c flake under roof pull round on slopers and go for the break. Reminicent of Shine On without the pockets. F7b+ Path Of E7 Robin Solo, now the only gear placement has fallen off! Three or The 6c Hood's four tricky moves above a bad landing: it's a good idea to Righteous Stride wear jeans so you can grip the arete with your knees. More Man independant than it looks. F7a+ Wise E7 Ilkley Solo, but can take a tied-down skyhook. Excellent moves Guys 6b/ on undercuts and smears lead up the groove. Crux at half c height. Rumoured to have been ' done years ago ' (youth, presumably). Logical E7 Lower Takes the hanging lower arete just right of Headless Progressi 6c Tier, Horseman via a very hard traverse from the right to the on Roache obvious pockets (crux) and a lovely balancy move to stand s up in them. The arete above is much easier. Good Friends under the roof protect the crux (back-rope useful) while a very poor Friend 1.5 in the right-hand pocket serves the rest. F7b+ Mount E7 Stanwo While some of the flakeline this route climbs broke off Vinson 6c rth (fresh scar visible Aug '99), it is still the same grade. E7 6c. Quarry, Only a little broke off, and the gear still doesn't protect the Lancs. high-up crux! Marrow E7 Caley For a long time a ground-up Al Manson project, until he Bone Jelly 6c top-roped it! Sustained friction arete climb with the landing just too far to get away with. Ankle -breaker if you land well, though it was first done with a side-runner in Adrenalin Rush , unfortunately the one that pops out. Tech crux low down but psychological crux is a high rock-over near the top. F7c One E7 Harsto Odd, old Nick Dixon route which was certainly one of the Chromos 6b n first E7s on grit. Has apparently been on-sight soloed by ome's Rocks, Ben Tetler - is he mad? He obviously forgot to place a Missing Staffs. bombproof R3 in a mono, before the crux, from a hands-off rest. A Place E7 Rylston Mega solo. Takes the rib left of Heartbeat City . Somewhat To Be 6b e of a death landing, but awesome moves. F7a+.Has been on- sighted

Bud E7 Froggat The leaning left arete of the slender buttress just right of 6c t Sandy Crack was climbed by Andy Popp some time ago, but never written up. Very technical and bold up to a nasty slap for the obvious jug (RPs in crack on the right - could be better!). From here one of the weirdest moves on grit enables you to stand on it and romp to the top. F7b+/7c Avoiding E7 Bamfor Roof problem right of M35 via obvious bowl in the roof and The 6c d flared twin runnels above. Gear is at the back of the roof, Traitors but the nasty ledge below is closer! Crux is not falling off when you inevitably cut loose. The E7 Burbag Protection - small friend in low break, Braille 6c e South hand placed pegs and a 6" nail! Hard Trail move to gain arete and the most exposed gritstone rest (but see Appointment With Fear for exposure!) and balancy rock-up into crack, which is a lot easier to do if you don't climb it as Dawes does in Stone Monkey . The protection has been tested by Climber: Readza © an assortment of foreigners (see Hard P.Curtis Grit ), but I think it still fits into this category. F7b

Dreadnau E7 Stanag Same F0.5s as for Scarpa Flow just about protect the