The Overlook the JOURNAL of the CLEVELAND HEIGHT S HISTORICAL SOCIETY

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The Overlook the JOURNAL of the CLEVELAND HEIGHT S HISTORICAL SOCIETY iew from ~~~ The Overlook THE JOURNAL OF THE CLEVELAND HEIGHT S HISTORICAL SOCIETY NO . 37 • SUMMER 2014 WWW .CH HIS TORY. ORG "Electric Railways, with their 'Broom-stick trains,' have entirely done away with Riding the horse-cars within, and for miles without. our city limits. No horse-cars have run Witches to since July, 1893, the witches having taken full possession of all the lines. where their Heathen red-hot wires and brilliant sparks are often more suggestive of Pluto's regions Ridge than of public convenience." By William C. Barrow Riding the Witches• to Heathen Ridge "Electric Railways, with their 'Broom-stick Early Ups and Downs trains,' have entirely done away with horse-cars Location has always been the master key to within, and for miles without, our city limits. profitable real estate development. But location No horse-cars have run since July, 1893, the is more than good schools, classy neighbors witches having taken full possession of all the lines, where their red-hot wires and brilliant and lake views. Location is also about sparks are often more suggestive of Pluto's something that 21st-century developers regions than of public convenience." often take for granted: accessibility. And for developers in the low-horsepower 19th century, accessibility wasn't something you could count riting this in his 1896 Centennial on. In fact. some choice lands were just too History of Cleveland, C. A. Urann elevated to become feasible developments. In W voiced wonderment about the newly the Cleveland area, such land was found in the electrified city streetcars-harbingers of a new Portage Escarpment: the bucolic foothills of the age in transportation. These powerful vehicles Appalachian Mountains, i.e .. "The Heights:· would open Cleveland's eastern "Heights" continued on page 5 to real estate development, turning a quiet, rural location for horse farms and occasional Gypsy encampments (thus the nickname Heathen Ridge) into today's beautiful Euclid Heights neighborhood. That same electrical transportation technology would also open the hinterlands of the North Union Shaker settlement (no heathens there) to the Van Sweringens' fabulous Shaker Heights. Going up to Euclid Heights. or down from Shaker, the story of these two pace-setting communities . starts with the conquest of steep hills. At left: The electric streetcars up Cedar Glen opened The Heights for development by being able to power up the hill. (NKP Collection. Cleve/and State University Library.) Above right: In 1893. as Euclid Heights was being conceived. commuting to the city would have had to start here. at the top of Cedar Glen. Cover Photo: View of Cedar Hill. taken from the former Doctors' Hospital. c. 1920s. Cedar Road enters the intersection from the left. The streetcar on the right is on Euclid Heights Boulevard. 2 WWW . CHHISTORY . ORG SUMMER 20 1 4 3 Riding the Witches to Heathen Ridge From the Executive Director For most of the 19th century, elevation wasn't through Cleveland occurred at water levels The First, I'd like to extend many thanks and fond farewells a serious issue for Clevelanders. The rapidly 80 feet below the plateau, which contained to the two members of our Board of Trustees who Cleveland stepped down last month. For many years, Sue Godfrey growing city had plenty of level, accessible land most of Cleveland's residences and retail activity. and Chris Roy have volunteered their time and efforts to meet its needs. Residents of "The Heights" Cleveland attorney Stephen Kurtzeil has argued Heights to help the Cleveland Heights Historical Society fulfill its were mostly farmers and quarrymen whose that the famous division and rivalry between mission. They will be missed. routines didn't require daily descents and ascents Cleveland's East and West Sides wasn't due to Historical I have exciting news of a project that is in the planning to and from the city. By the end of the century, the river. The issue was the river's flanking steep stages. This fall, the Cleveland Heights Historical Society however. the leading edge of eastern development cliffs, which impeded movement in the days Society hopes to debut a "community digital archive " on its was the East End, around Doan's Corners and before high-level bridges and powerful engines. website. We've already been working w ith several of today's Hough neighborhood. One early solution is exemplified by ~~H~~ Cleveland Heights High School Social Studies teacher Cleveland's development of the Smead Rolling Justin Hons' students to digitize materials provided to Road, a mechanical hoist that hauled loaded us by the Cl eveland Heights Fire Department. These and "But at least one challenge remained: wagons up Eagle Avenue to the Central Market PO Box 18337 other historic materials-including items submitted by overcoming the steep grade of the from the Flats, where goods were off-loaded Cleveland Heights, OH 44118 you-will be available to view for free on our website escarpment and opening The Heights from ships, canal boats and railroads. Started [email protected] once the online archive is up and running. Keep checking in 1904, this was a brief experiment that lasted our Facebook page for more details. for development" until gasoline engine technology and new rail Executive Director We should also mention that several reference sources freight yards up on the plateau rendered it Michael Rotman were omitted from our Spring 2014 newsletter ("CH/UH T he question then was where the growth would unnecessary (see photo below). Board of Trustees Libraries? Covent ry Wrote the Book"). They include: go when the wave of development crashed continued next page. Ken Goldberg, President • M ark Souther, "Coventry Village Library," Cleveland up against the Heights, especially for the Charles Owen, Vice President & Fo under Historical, http://clevelandhistorical.org/items/show/443. Millionaires' Row class who had been gradually Mazie Adams. Treasurer • Marion Kelly, More Than Just Books, Friends of the migrating out Euclid Avenue, seeking relief from Bill Barrow Cleveland Heights-University Heights Library, 1979. the ills of inner city pollution, population, trouble Korbi Roberts • Minutes of the Cleveland Heights Public Library and taxes. Some of the elite remained coiled Board, 1917. around the park-like estate of Jeptha Wade The Cleveland Heights Historical Society, In the newsletter article entitled, "Living Large in Cleveland (the core of University Circle today) while others founded in 1983, is a state-chartered. Heights" (Winter 2012) we mentioned that the Howell­ moved on toward Lake County or Bratenahl. 50 I (c}(3), not-for-profit organization. Hinds house (now the home of Nottingham Spirk) was But at least one challenge remained: overcoming in Cleveland Heights. The parcel is actually in Cleveland. the steep grade of the escarpment and opening Our Mission Lastly, the Board of Trustees is proposing a revision of the The Heights for development. The Cleveland Heights Historical Society Cleveland Heights Historical Society's by-laws, which were Steep grades were a problem for Cleveland is dedicated to preserving and promoting first written in 1983. To review the 1983 by-laws and the businessmen elsewhere. Founded as a port city, the diverse character and traditions proposed by-laws, visit www.chhistory.org/blog. The new where the Cuyahoga River meets Lake Erie, of Cleveland Heights. by-laws w ill be voted on at our next meeting, Thursday, Cleveland was sited to take advantage of the As a community-based historic organization, October 2 at 7 p.m. at Lee Road Library. You can direct portage connection to the Ohio and Mississippi the Society encourages and facilitates greater any questions or comments to [email protected] . river systems. Much of the heavy freight moving knowledge, understanding and awareness And as always, thank you for your continued support! of the heritage of Cleveland Heights. Michael Rotman Above: The Smead Rolling Road hauling wagons up Eagle Avenue from the Flats. showing the steep elevations flanking the Cuyahoga River (Farragher Construction Collection, CSU Ubrary). 4 WWW.CHHISTORY.ORG SUMMER 201 4 5 Riding the Witches to Heathen Ridge to the south. Cedar Glen also crested onto a flat Recognizing this, Calhoun strove to link plateau of Euclid Bluestone. backed by a low his proposed allotment with the emerging The Heights presented the same problem. How secondary rise of Berea Sandstone, which gave center of art, education and parks where Doan's would heavy freight and mass transit efficiently the site splendid views of the city and lake, as Brook crossed Euclid Avenue. There, part of and routinely climb to the top of the escarpment? well as huge supplies of building materials. the Jeptha Wade estate had been bequeathed Pedestrians, horsemen and light carriages could Calling their development the Euclid Heights to the city for parkland-one jewel in a string make the trip, and teams of horses could pull Allotment, Calhoun and his partners started of donated sites along the brook: Shaker Lakes some freight up. But attempting to use streetcars work in 1890, halted during the Panic of 1893, and Ambler, Wade, Rockefeller and Gordon pulled by horses would be Sisyphean.' and resumed shortly thereafter. Parks. The city fathers wanted an entrance to this park system so Calhoun, in company Patrick Calhoun arrives Scaling the Heights with John D. Rockefeller and Case Institute of Technology, donated the land that would become The solution was electric streetcar technology, The key to development was getting residents to the University Circle streetcar roundabout.2 In a breakthrough in which Cleveland played and from the site to their jobs downtown. The the process, Calhoun wedded his development an important role. In 1884, Edward Bentley wealthiest could afford carriages but the clear to University Circle and created a beautiful and Walter Knight conducted experiments in need was for an electric streetcar with sufficient entryway of his own (see photo below).
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