KNIGHT PASSES NIKE BATON/2 RICHEMONT NET UP 158%/2 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ DailyFRIDAY Newspaper • November 19, 2004 • $2.00 Beauty City Slickers NEW YORK — Location, location, location. It’s obvious that the real estate market isn’t the only industry to recognize the truth of this credo, as Donna Karan Cosmetics prepares to launch its New York-themed Be Delicious Men, while Lancaster gears up for Miami Glow, a new addition to its Jennifer Lopez franchise. Be Delicious Men is out in March and could do $20 million at retail in its first year on counter, while Miami Glow, out in February, is said to be looking for sales of $15 million to $20 million. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Gap Looking Abroad, Will Set Up Banana Republics in Japan By Meredith Derby Gap said Thursday it will open three end goods, as well as Banana NEW YORK — Gap Inc. sees the future Banana Republic stores in Japan Republic’s recent relative success in of Banana Republic in the Land of next year. the U.S., the division’s foray into the the Rising Sun. Combined with the fast-growing Far East could be a good thing for Amid somewhat disappointing Asian apparel market, where Gap, whose international segment news of flat third-quarter earnings, consumers are hungry for higher- See Gap, Page 12 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY BRYN KENNY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 19, 2004 WWDFRIDAY Knight Move: New Nike CEO Named Beauty

By Melanie Kletter in several positions, including general manager of S.C. Johnson Spain and Iberia, vice president and GENERAL NEW YORK — Nike Inc. co-founder Philip Knight regional director of consumer products in Latin Amid somewhat disappointing news of flat third-quarter earnings, Gap said is stepping down as president and chief executive America and vice president of the U.S. Home Care 1 Thursday it will open three Banana Republic stores in Japan next year. officer of the $12 billion athletic shoe and apparel business. The company is based in Racine, Wis. Philip Knight is stepping down as president and ceo of Nike, but will remain company he made into a global brand. Raised in Colombia in South America, Perez 2 chairman, to be replaced by William D. Perez, ceo of S.C. Johnson & Son. He will be succeeded by William D. Perez, who is not a total stranger to the fashion business. He has been president and ceo of S.C. Johnson & was a board member at May Department Stores Richemont, which a year ago saw sales and profits plummet from a variety Son, the maker of consumer products such as until May. He is also on the board of the Kellogg 2 of factors, scored a 158 percent profits spike in its first half. Windex, Ziploc bags and Glad air freshener. The Co., the cereal maker. SUZY: Nicole Kidman said she would like to “produce” another child, with appointment is effective Dec. 28. Perez indicated in a written 4 somebody…Posh Spice does denim…There is nothing like a dame. Knight, 66, will remain as statement that he would retain Nike’s chairman and is likely to the company’s direction. “I was BEAUTY: The Lancaster Group hopes to invigorate its Jennifer Lopez still be a presence in the compa- drawn to this company because 6 fragrance brand in February with the launch of Miami Glow. ny. The move, though not a sur- the Nike brand perpetually stays Donna Karan Cosmetics, a division of Estée Lauder Cos., plans to launch a prise to analysts, is another sign current, making it one of the best men’s counterpart to its just-launched Be Delicious scent this spring. that he is loosening his control of managed on the globe,’’ he said. 7 Nike, which he founded with for- “And I’m a strong believer in ‘Just mer University of Oregon track Do It,’” which is Nike’s slogan. Classified Advertisements...... 15 coach Bill Bowerman in 1972. Perez is an avid runner and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is “I think this is a natural step has participated in 11 marathons, [email protected], using the individual’s name. and something that has been in Nike said. In addition to being WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 the works for a while,” said ana- president and ceo, he will be a di- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 188, NO. 108. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional lyst Matt Powell of Princeton rector on Nike’s executive board. issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three Retail Analysis. “He is stepping Knight, who started by selling additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 back at a time when Nike is at track shoes out of the trunk of his West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Philip Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, the top of its game; it’s a good Knight car, has overseen and guided Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior time for this kind of transition.” Nike’s growth into the world’s Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at Nike has reported strong earn- largest athletic company, selling additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration ings and sales gains this year. In the quarter ending a broad range of categories and hard goods. He No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. Aug. 31, earnings surged 25 percent to $328.1 mil- was a pioneer in using athletes such as Michael POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR lion, as revenues rose 17.7 percent to $3.56 billion. Jordan to promote Nike products. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is “Nike has enjoyed tremendous success as we In recent years, Nike has branched into new required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new have grown to become a $12 billion global compa- arenas with the acquisitions of Converse, Cole subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, ny,” Knight said in a written statement. “As I’ve said Haan and Hurley. Earlier this year, Nike acquired please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild many times over the past three years, Nike’s cur- Starter, a mass athletic brand, heralding a new magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully rent management team, led by brand presidents distribution strategy. screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Charlie Denson and Mark Parker, is the strongest The company has come under fire for work- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED it’s ever been. With Bill, we become even stronger.” ing conditions at its overseas factories, but has MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND Knight was not available for further comment. worked to improve its standards in recent years. TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED After Nike’s most recent earnings, Lehman While Nike is best known for footwear, apparel TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Brothers analyst Robert Drbul wrote: “We strong- has become a fast-growing category, and U.S. appar- ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. ly believe Nike has never been better managed el sales were $391.3 million in the recent quarter. from a strategic and financial perspective.” Nike employs 24,000 people in about 200 countries. Powell said Perez, 57, was a good choice to Knight’s total 2003 compensation was $3.7 mil- lead Nike because he has broad international lion, of which $2.3 million was in bonus pay. He Quote of the Week experience, and Nike has been aggressively also owns 12 percent of the company’s shares. building its business outside the U.S. The news was announced after the market Perez, who joined privately held S.C. Johnson in closed. Nike’s shares fell 99 cents to $85 Thursday “This is a great opportunity to 1970 and spent the last 34 years there, has served on the New York Stock Exchange. explore commutations and permutations.’’ — Edward Lampert, who will be chairman of the new Richemont Profits Soar 158% in Half Sears Holdings Corp. By Samantha Conti percent. Grieve said it was reasonable to antici- pate “high-single-digit growth” during the rest of LONDON — Richemont is riding high. the six-month period. He added the group also In Brief Compagnie Financière Richemont SA — which was expecting a strong, pre-Christmas season. a year ago watched its sales and profits plummet Sales in the Asia-Pacific rose 30 percent to 360 due to SARS, the war in Iraq and flagging con- million euros, or $468 million, from 276 million ● MYSTERY DEAL FOR LEVI OUTLETS: Casual Male Retail sumer confidence — is building on recent momen- euros, or $359 million, while sales in Japan rose 7 Group Inc., which owns 32 Levi’s and Dockers Outlet stores, said tum with a 158 percent spike in profits to 173 mil- percent to 300 million euros, or $390 million, from Thursday it had agreed to sell those outlets to an unnamed, pri- lion euros, or $225 million, from 67 million euros, 281 million euros, or $365 million. Grieve said the vately held buyer for an undisclosed price. Jeff Unger, vice pres- or $87 million, in the first half ended Sept. 30. firm was focused on entry-level products and gifts ident of investor relations, said the buyer had requested its All figures are converted from the euro at cur- in order to further stimulate sales in Japan. identity not be revealed, though he conceded it’s likely the pub- rent exchange. In the Americas, sales rose 15 percent to 344 mil- licly traded Casual Male will eventually have to disclose the “The speed of recovery has been surprising,” lion euros, or $447 million, from 298 million euros, buyer’s name to the Securities and Exchange Commission. The Alan Grieve, director of corporate communica- or $387 million. Richemont said it was riding the Canton, Mass.-based company has reinvented itself over the last tions at Richemont, said Thursday. “Of course, we wave of consumer confidence in the U.S. Cartier four years, shutting 74 of its outlets and acquiring the Casual were coming off weak comparisons with the first watches, in particular, exceeded expectations in Male chain. Prior to the deal, the company was known as half last year, but the numbers are still looking that market, generating growth of some 26 percent Designs Inc. When the sale of the remaining outlets closes — as good.” at historic rates. is expected by Nov. 24 — Casual Male’s sole business will be Grieve added: “Cartier is back — substantially In Europe, sales rose 10 percent to 735 million large-size men’s apparel. back — with new products, and the watch brands euros, or $956 million, from 671 million euros, or $872 we bought in 2000, IWC, Lange & Sohne and million, partially due to an uptick in tourist demand. ● DELTA TO SELL YARN MILL: Delta Apparel Inc. said Thursday Jaeger-LeCoultre, are penetrating new markets, By product category, sales at specialist watch- it had agreed to sell its yarn plant in Edgefield, S.C., to Parkdale including the U.S. and Japan.” makers grew 18 percent to 431 million euros, or $560 America, a maker of cotton yarns. The price was not disclosed. The gloom and doom of last year’s first half ap- million, from 366 million euros, or $476 million, Delta said it had also inked a five-year deal with Parkdale to buy pears to be all but over for the group, which also while sales at Richemont’s writing instrument man- yarn produced at the plant, and noted that it would use the pro- counts Montblanc, Dunhill and Chloé among its ufacturers rose 17 percent to 186 million euros, or ceeds to pay down debt and invest in marketing. luxury portfolio. Cartier generates the lion’s share $242 million, from 159 million euros, or $207 million. of the business. Sales at the jewelry houses rose 11 percent to Sales in the period rose 14 percent to 1.74 bil- 922 million euros, or $1.2 billion, from 827 million lion euros, or $2.26 billion, from 1.53 billion euros, euros, or $1.1 billion. The statement said Cartier es- or $2 billion, with growth across all product cate- pecially benefited from launches within the Santos Corrections gories and regions. Troubled businesses Dunhill watch range and the Panthere jewelry range. Michael McCadden, president and chief executive officer of and Lancel, although still not profitable, are both Sales at Richemont’s leather and accessories Henri Bendel, was previously employed by the Calvin Klein on the road to recovery through better products divisions rose 4 percent to 118 million euros, or Cosmetics division of Unilever Ltd., not Calvin Klein Inc., as re- and more focused marketing, Grieve said, adding $153 million, from 113 million euros, or $147 mil- ported in a story on page 16, Thursday. he expects Lancel in particular to be profitable lion, while sales at the other businesses — includ- ● ● ● within 18 months. ing Chloé, Hackett, Purdey and Old England — The jacket that appeared on page 7 of the Teen In Depth Section Meanwhile, sales in the second half, which rose 34 percent to 82 million euros, or $107 mil- II on Thursday is from Twill 22, not Twill 222 as credited. began in October, have so far grown at a rate of 8 lion, from 61 million euros, or $79 million. © 2004 Estée Lauder Inc. 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Ewan McGregor, who are being considered. As for Dame Edna Angelina, the prime minister of Cambodia has just made her an honorary citizen to thank her for the humanitarian work she has done there. This will make her the first Cambodian Bond girl if she gets the role, which will most certainly boil down to money and more money. ● Julianne Moore and Bart Freundlich’s two-year-old daughter Liv, who’s just like a mini-mommy, is getting a lot of attention on the set of “Trust the Man” with daddy at the helm and mommy emoting with David Duchovny, Billy Crudup and Maggie Gyllenhaal. Little Liv is entertaining everybody by playing with her bright red hair and giggling at everything she sees. Perhaps they’ll find a cameo for the little charmer. ● Neve Campbell is filming “Churchill: The Hollywood Years,” a movie spoof wherein she plays the young Princess Elizabeth. Her character has an affair with a U.S. soldier, played by Christian Slater, which results in a love child. When Neve had a chance to meet the Queen at the recent premiere of “Ladies in Lavender,” she chickened out for fear that the sovereign might not be amused. Oh, she’s so right. ● Victoria Beckham will launch her own line of jeans, which she calls “Wonderbras for bottoms” — is that adorable? — in London next week at Harvey Nichols. The jeans will feature her signature and a crown motif — crown motif? — on the back pocket and will be priced at $280 a pair. But only 100 pairs will be offered for sale to see how many people want a Wonderbra for their bottom. It’s been said that her trendsetting husband, David Beckham, who has been known to wear sarongs and kilts, got the first pair. Victoria is in talks with the U.S.’s top retailers to bring her designs to our shores. I can wait if you can. ● New York is all atwitter about Dame Edna Everage’s, aka Barry Humphries, return to Broadway in “Back With a Vengeance!” which opens Sunday night at the Music Box Theatre. At the very first Julianne preview were such worthies as Moore Nan and Tommy Kempner; Bing Crosby’s widow, Kathryn; Mario Buatta, and Anne Slater. The Dame called Anne on stage to Suzy play the part of her mother. She By Aileen Mehle put Anne in a wheelchair, dressed her in a lavender Nicole Kidman says she’ll take six months housecoat and a purple head off when she has finished filming “The scarf, but did allow her to keep Producers” alongside Nathan Lane and her own signature blue glasses. eye® Matthew Broderick, wherein she plays the Anne may not be a pro, but she supersexy Swedish secretary Ulla. She does and Daughter Dame Edna not mention what she’ll be doing with her free time or brought down the house. with whom she’ll be spending it, but she has said, “It On Dec. 7, Dame Edna’s would be lovely to have another child with somebody. I’m performance will benefit not pregnant, but I would love to be. I would love to be Australia’s National Institute of married again. I’m still a huge believer in marriage. I like Dramatic Art, whose alumni being married and I like having a family. I think there’s include Cate Blanchett, Mel something lovely about raising a child together.” Surely Gibson and Baz Luhrmann. The there are millions out there, somewhere, who would be benefit committee includes thrilled to help her with her plan. Hugh Jackman, Julia and David Nicole has been out and about lately with Koch, Dina Merrill, Evelyn and multimillionaire Steve Bing, the big-time bad boy and Leonard Lauder, Pauline Pitt and babymaker, but is he listening — really listening — to Patricia Patterson. Nicole? Naturally gun-shy after the big fiasco with ● Elizabeth Hurley, whose child he fostered out of wedlock, That smart little dinner at to use a quaint expression, he’s probably wearing earplugs Swifty’s was a smart little around the clock. welcome to New York for ● Austrian Princess Manni Maria Callas’ collection of jewelry was auctioned for Wittgenstein, who lives where $1.87 million at Sotheby’s in Geneva on Wednesday. The Nicole Kidman the hills are alive with the sound sale included the legendary diva’s 11.7-carat marquise cut of music, entertaining diamond ring, a ruby and diamond collar, a gold and sometimes in a dirndl to make diamond evening bag and a huge assortment of earrings, but also “Ari was very selective about whom he wanted the point, and the American-born Countess Aline de necklaces and brooches from all the great jewelry houses. on the Christina. If the guests were great and powerful, I Romanones, who lives at her hunting lodge in the Spanish Most of the items were gifts from Maria’s husband, was often left off the list. It made me feel unloved, countryside. Though both ladies are glamorous staples of Giovanni Battista Meneghini, but surely in the glittering unwanted and insecure.” It was a given that he loved her the international set (which gets less and less glamorous horde there was a bauble or two from her lover, Aristotle always but when it came to the main chance, it was his as the years go by), neither has been in New York for Onassis. Director Franco Zeffirelli, a friend of Callas’, said nature to ride rough-shod. several years. the auction was “a shameful exploitation of the legacy of ● Lee Thaw, the New York hostess who entertains titles, Maria.” But that didn’t stop the anonymous friend who Angelina Jolie wants to be the next Bond girl. “It’s been bluebloods and the proletariat alike, gave the dinner, and inherited the jewelry after her death in 1977 from going a lifetime ambition of mine to play a 007 villain,” she says. gracing the banquettes were such as the vivacious ahead with the sale. This quote might make her “Alexander” co-star Colin American-born Baroness Bernard d’Anglejan of Paris, The world knows Callas’ tragic story. After Onassis Farrell think again about his decision not to even consider Mrs. Douglas Auchincloss and Lee’s granddaughter-in- dropped her for Jackie Kennedy, who, by the way, Maria being the new Bond. Anyhow, Angelina’s dream is sure to law, Mrs. Sebastian Thaw. As for the gents, how about never met — “and never wanted to,” she once told me — upset a long line of actresses who want the role. And Kenneth Jay Lane, James Figg, Boaz Mazur, Alexander it was not only a wound from which she never recovered, maybe excite the actors, including Hugh Jackman and Hitz, John Dobkin, Raymond Kassar and David Ferguson? KIDMAN AND DAME EDNA PHOTOS BY WIREIMAGE KIDMAN AND DAME EDNA PHOTOS BY WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 19, 2004 5 WWW.WWD.COM Legal Momentum Honors Ruttenstein Limited Hit by Tough Comparison By Meredith Derby NEW YORK — Being honored at Legal Momentum’s 26th Annual NEW YORK — Third-quarter bottom-line results at Limited Equal Opportunity Awards Dinner Brands dropped 39.6 percent as a big gain in the prior year rendered the usually outgoing Kal inflated comparable-quarter results. Excluding items, how- Ruttenstein, well, shy. ever, the company posted a 12.1 percent rise in earnings, “Everyone has said such nice matching Wall Street expectations. things, but I don’t want to talk about But the Columbus, Ohio-based operator of Express, Bath & me,” said Ruttenstein, senior vice Body Works, Victoria’s Secret and Henri Bendel stores forecast president of fashion direction at fourth-quarter earnings below the current Wall Street consensus. Bloomingdale’s, as he took the stage Net income in the three months ended Oct. 30 fell to $78.3 for his acceptance speech. “I want to million, or 16 cents a share, compared with $129.7 million, or 25 talk about Legal Momentum.” cents, in the year-earlier period. Results in the latest quarter Industry heavyweights such as included a benefit from a tax settlement as well as a pretax Michael Gould, chairman and chief gain of $45.7 million in proceeds from the October initial pub- executive officer of Bloomingdale’s; lic offering of New York & Co. In the year-ago quarter, results Vera Wang; Zac Posen; Susan Sokol, included a $128.4 million pretax gain from the sale of Limited’s president of Vera Wang Apparel; remaining 7.5 million shares of Alliance Data Systems Corp. Joan Kaner, senior vice president Excluding the respective gains, adjusted earnings at and fashion director of Neiman Limited rose to $49.7 million, or 10 cents, versus $44.3 mil- Marcus, and Stephanie George, pres- lion, or 8 cents, last year. Analysts were also expecting a prof- ident of In Style and one of the Michael Gould and it of 10 cents. evening’s dinner chairs, came out to Stephanie George Susan Sokol Operating income on both a reported and adjusted basis support Ruttenstein, who has long was $53.1 million, up 26.4 percent from $42.2 million a year served as a mentor to fledgling fash- ago. On a subsequent conference call, the firm cited a $22.4 ion stars and is an advocate of pro- Vera Wang million operating income improvement in its Victoria’s grams that support women advanc- Secret segment, offset by an $8.9 million decline in its appar- ing in the field. el business, hurt in part by soft results at Express. His contemporaries didn’t stop Total sales in the quarter rose 2.4 percent to $1.89 billion from singing his praises. “Kal’s just the $1.85 billion last year, and same-store sales gained 1 percent. best. I’ve known him forever,” said Regarding its new Bigelow concept, which opened in Wang, opting to laud him on his cul- October at Easton Town Center, near Columbus, Glenn tured tastes rather than his philan- Schlesinger, chief operating officer, said on the call that thropic gestures. “He’s a world trav- “we’re quite encouraged by what we have seen…but it is very eler. He always knows the hippest premature to call game.” restaurants.” In the nine-month period, Limited earned $322.9 million, Posen took a break from festoon- or 66 cents, including certain gains, which compared with ing feathers on two couture dresses $329.2 million, or 63 cents, a year ago. Limited sold its Ler- for the Crillon Ball in Paris and ner/New York & Co. business to Bear Stearns Merchant showed up with his mother on his Banking in November 2002 for $78.5 million cash and had arm. Andrew Rosen of Theory ar- retained a $75 million subordinated note as well as 15 per- rived in his version of business at- cent in warrants of the new firm’s common equity. Limited tire — a gray Theory pinstriped received a $44.9 million pretax gain from the early sale of the jacket with jeans and shell-toe note and $20 million on the sale of the warrants in the first Adidas. “It’s for Kal! He's an amaz- quarter. In the second quarter, the company received a $17.6 ing man. He has come up with some million pretax gain from sale of its remaining interest in of the most innovative concepts over Zac Posen and Kal Ruttenstein Galyan’s Trading Co. the years....I’ve known him for 20 KEITH SMITH PHOTOS BY On an adjusted basis, the company earned $254.8 million, years. He’s a great friend.” erenced Ruttenstein’s early days. “I first tried to hire or 52 cents, in the first nine months of the fiscal year, com- Michele Mayes, the board’s chairman, explained Kal when he was a suit buyer at Lord & Taylor,” he re- pared with $196.1 million, or 37 cents, last year. Total rev- the choice of Ruttenstein in her opening remarks: membered. Once Ruttenstein was brought on board, enues rose 6.6 percent to $6.1 billion with comps up 6 percent. “Feminists like to look good, too....I know I have a Traub said he became a great fashion leader for the In the fourth quarter, the company forecast earnings of 85 few less dollars in my pocket because of store, finding young designers and traveling far and to 92 cents, versus the consensus estimate for 95 cents. Limited Bloomingdale's.” wide for the cause. said it is comfortable with its previous full-year earnings esti- Meanwhile, Marvin Traub, consultant and former “He’s wonderful, that’s really why I’m here,” said mate of $1.35 to $1.42, in line with analyst estimates for $1.40. chairman and chief executive of Bloomingdale’s, ref- Traub. “The industry needs people like him.”

Street, and they did a great job with Joe Boxer. I would say building brands was Kmart’s forte when I was there [seven Brand Maximization Key to Kmart, Sears Future years ago]. Gwen Widell, executive vice presi- By WWD Staff Jaclyn Smith, Thalia Sodi, Joe Boxer prior year, on sales that fell 13.7 percent to dent of merchandising for Wacoal inti- and Sesame Street, he projected. $4.39 billion from $5.09 billion. mates at Wacoal America, remarked, NEW YORK — When it comes to the future Whether such apparel assortments But the standout was Kmart’s balance “They’ll be competitive if they each find of Kmart’s and Sears’ combined roster of will create a strong enough tide to raise sheet. Long-term debt, which includes their niche, but they’ll have to decide apparel brands, the whole is anticipated to the fortunes of two flagging retail ships mortgages due within a year, stood at $4 which classifications to go after. The be greater than the sum of its parts. remains to be seen, however, cautioned million at the end of the period ended Sears name doesn’t have a fashion con- That’s because the deal spells a way Marc Gobe, president and chief execu- Oct. 27, while cash and cash equivalents notation. Sears would not be the place a to quickly offer consumers a broader tive officer at brand-image creation firm came in at $2.6 billion. teen would want to buy a pair of jeans. array of apparel labels under one roof, desgrippes/gobe. “The only thing excit- “For the time being, based on their It’s a place where dad buys a hammer.” plus the potential for a more exciting ing is Martha Stewart inside Kmart and statements, we’re going to approach On the real estate front, one observer shopping environment and a higher quo- Lands’ End inside Sears.” everything separately because that’s questioned how viable the merged re- tient of convenience, observers said While describing the merger as a how they’ve indicated they plan to run tailer would be in the market. Charles Thursday, the day after Kmart Holding brilliant strategy for survival in the bat- the businesses,” said Robert Skinner, Kleman, chief financial officer and chief Corp. announced plans to buy Sears, tle with Wal-Mart, he nonetheless noted: president and chief operating officer, operating officer at specialty retailer Roebuck & Co. for $11 billion. “What we’re seeing is two of the worst Kellwood Co. The vendor has its Sag Chico’s, said, “It sounds like Sears wants “To be able to offer Martha Stewart brands in the U.S. merging with each Harbor, Koret and Briggs New York in to move their stores off-site to Kmart. and Lands’ End under one roof is a par- other — two brands that have absolutely Sears and sells private label intimate Sears is so mall based they’re stuck with ticularly powerful combination,” said zero meaning in the minds of people.” apparel to Kmart. an anchor. Kmart is strip-center based, Paul Nunes, executive research fellow Gobe, for one, believes the combined Skinner said the merger was “smart” and that’s where people like to shop. at the Accenture Institute For High retailer’s best bet in the war with Wal- given that it opens up the door to better But if that’s the case, they would have to Performance Business. Mart is to position the Sears and Kmart use of the chains’ real estate. “If they compete with Wal-Mart around the cor- The expansion of the apparel brand stores in a unique manner — largely centralize some of their back offices and ner. I don’t know how they can do that. offerings at Sears, coupled with the through differentiated brand assort- it makes it more efficient for us to sell They’ve got to be as quick and smart as chain’s eventual extension to off-the- ments — as Target has done with its them, obviously that would be a positive Wal-Mart, and Sears in particular has mall locations once occupied by Kmart, playful yet sophisticated store image for them and a positive for us,” he said. never been known for speed or change.” will effectively create a shopping atmos- and roster of proprietary designer Terri Meichner, senior vice president As for the consumer’s perception of phere like people found in its depart- brands from Isaac Mizrahi to Liz Lange, of the Avenue Body division of The Sears and Kmart, Kleman, said: “It’s ment stores in years past, Nunes ob- Todd Oldham and Philippe Starck. Avenue and a former vice president and sort of a story of an old dinosaur and a served. Factor in the addition of Lands’ Indeed, Sears Holdings would have the divisional merchandise manager of inti- floundering discounter. They’ve got to End to Kmart’s offerings, and the avail- cash to invest in brands. As Wall Street mate apparel at Kmart, said: “I think reinvent themselves. Maybe both can be ability of those apparel labels across ap- searched for insights on the merger, their product looks better and they have better through cost savings. If they do proximately 3,500 locations will stir a Kmart released third-quarter results that the capability of building brands. something blended, maybe it will work. sense of ubiquity, strengthening the showed a net income gain of $553 million, They’ve done it in the past with certain It’s a big marriage, but definitely a presence of individual brands, such as compared with a loss of $23 million in the brands like Martha Stewart and Sesame strange marriage.” 6 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 19, 2004 The Beauty Report Lopez Nurtures Her Glow NEW YORK — The Lancaster Group hopes to renew the glow Sabas, has top notes of pink grapefruit, coconut water, passion of its Jennifer Lopez fragrance brand in February. fruit and black currant; a middle accord of sunbaked sand, or- That’s when Miami Glow, the latest addition to the red-hot ange flower, heliotrope and cyclamen, and a drydown of sheer star’s fragrance franchise, will bow. As reported, it was pre- amber, crystal musk, vanilla orchid and blond woods. The bot- viewed to global retailers at October’s Tax Free World tle is an amber-tinted version of Lopez’s original Glow by JLo Association conference in Cannes, France. scent. Like the original, it is draped with a piece of costume Miami Glow extends its targeted audience to a younger jewelry — in Miami Glow’s case, a colorful charm bracelet. consumer than the original Glow — 13- to 25-year-olds as op- The outer box is done in gold and orange with a beach motif. posed to Glow’s early-20s target — and its juice is completely The range will include eaux de toilette in three sizes — a 1 different, noted Catherine Walsh, senior vice president of oz. for $30 that will be previewed in December, and two sizes marketing for cosmetics and American licenses for Lancaster that will be offered during the regular selling period, a 1.7 oz. Group Worldwide. for $42 and a 3.4 oz. for $56. Two ancillaries — the 6.7-oz. “We see this as a separate launch for Glow, given the differ- Golden Sparkle Shower Gel for $22.50 and the 6.7-oz. Sexy ent age targets and different juices,” said Walsh, noting that Skin Body Lotion for $27.50 — will also be available at launch. her team’s goal is to move the franchise back into the top 10. The products will be available in Lopez’s full U.S. distribution Good Skin’s new peel. “We don’t believe that Miami — about 2,000 department Glow will cannibalize exist- and specialty stores — as ing Glow business, given well as a number of interna- these differences. In fact, we tional markets, including Good Skin: believe very strongly in the the U.K., Australia, Asia and Glow concept, and think that travel retail. Neither execu- it has a lot of legs. I think we tive would comment on pro- could have many Glows.” jected sales or advertising Beauty A-Peel Walsh didn’t dispute spending, although industry NPD numbers that showed sources estimated that NEW YORK — Good Skin is delving the two-year-old Glow fran- Miami Glow could do $15 deeper into the treatment arena with chise has lost ground at re- million to $20 million at re- its next launch. tail lately, but also pointed tail in its selling period, and The skin care brand, produced by out that the original scent — that about $4 million would the Estée Lauder Cos.’ BeautyBank said to have done $100 mil- be spent on advertising and division and currently an exclusive at lion at retail globally in its promotion. Kohl’s Department Stores, launched first year — set an extreme- The print ads further play in October with 73 stockkeeping units ly high benchmark. with the beach theme. ranging in price from $6.50 to $25. Its “Glow was said to have Unlike ads for the first two latest sku, All Bright 2-Step Facial been the second-largest fra- scents, the ad visuals for Peel Pads, is intended to enable grance launch ever, behind Miami Glow do not picture women to perform chemical facial CK One,” Walsh said. “We Looking for the Glow in Miami. Lopez. Instead, a high-energy peels at home. It will be available at also launched a second group of teenage models — select Kohl’s doors — currently scent, Still, the next year. Now, we’re going back and bringing including Luiza Kurtz, Pedro Bahia, Victor Ferreira, Priscila about 288 — in January. Additional newness to the original franchise. We believe very strongly in Machado, Camila Rodrigues and Vanessa Lyrio — is shown at Kohl’s doors will roll out the Jennifer Lopez, and we believe in her for the long-term.” A third an after-hours beach party on Miami’s South Beach. Single- BeautyBank brands, including Good pillar is likely for next year or beyond, Walsh said, although pre- page and double-page versions were shot by Enrique Badulescu Skin, in March. cisely when it might launch has not yet been determined. and will begin appearing in March magazines, including teen Good Skin is the latest in a wide For now, Walsh and Dennis Keogh, vice president of mar- books as well as fashion, beauty and lifestyle titles. The shoot variety of beauty brands — among keting, U.S., for Lancaster, are focusing on Miami Glow, which was styled by Lopez, who also picked the models. them, L’Oréal, Lancôme, Pre- will be available for one year only. “Its target customer is very Walsh is also enthusiastic about a new project Lopez is scriptives and Neutrogena — to tap young and wants constant newness — so having a limited-time working on with MTV that will be aired to coincide with the red-hot trend of producing home availability made sense as a strategy,” Walsh said. Added Lopez’s first fashion show in February. The one-hour show, versions of services once only avail- Keogh: “It’s a fun, fresh, sexy cocktail.” Lopez, who has just being filmed under the working title “J.Lo, CEO,” follows able in dermatologists’ offices. sold her L.A. digs to live full-time in her Miami abode with Lopez as she works on each of her licensed products — film- The growing popularity of these new husband, Marc Anthony, wanted the scent “to be warm, ing meetings with her beauty execs as well as those in apparel items is no accident, said Doris Day, like a beach at night,” added Walsh. and other areas. the Manhattan-based dermatologist The scent, developed by Lopez and Givaudan’s Caroline — Julie Naughton who has helped Lauder develop the Good Skin line. “Because time is so limited for everyone these days,” said the doctor — herself a working moth- er — “products that offer high effica- Cattrall’s Spark of Seduction cy without a huge time commitment NEW YORK — Indeed, life Kim Cattrall are increasingly popular.” does sometimes imitate art. with the That’s not even mentioning the hit, Actress Kim Cattrall — masterbrand. or lack thereof, to the pocketbook, who this spring wrapped up she pointed out. While a chemical six years of playing peel — which, admittedly, offers a Samantha Jones, TV’s sexi- higher concentration — in a derma- est p.r. maven, on HBO’s tologist’s office might run $150 or “Sex and the City” — is more, the home versions are in most now on the other side of cases much cheaper, with all offering the p.r. fence, as the face multiple uses per purchase. For in- of Liz Claiborne Cosmetics’ stance, the Good Skin version costs Spark Seduction flanker $30 and offers 30 treatments. masterbrand, which en- Good Skin’s Facial Peel Pads are tered stores last month. applied in two steps. The first pad Cattrall celebrated her beauty role — along with Liz applied is impregnated with a 10 per- Claiborne cosmetics executives Art Spiro and David Hirschler cent citric acid and lime extract, in- and Liz Claiborne chief Paul Charron — at a party Thursday tended to exfoliate the skin. The sec- night at the Hotel Gansevoort here. ond neutralizes the acid with sodium But there’s a major difference between Cattrall’s gig and bicarbonate, adds moisture back Samantha’s business, the Armani-clad actress said. “Samantha with sodium hyaluronate and calms had some strange corporate clients,” she told WWD with a skin with aloe. “While this is a very laugh. “Nothing nearly as glamorous as Spark Seduction.” effective peel, it’s also so gentle that In fact, the actress got a firsthand look at the brand’s seduc- it can be done once a week or more tive powers at “The View” host Star Jones’ recent wedding. without adversely affecting the skin,” “Men kept coming up to me and saying, ‘Do you like how I said Day. smell?’ I thought ‘that’s an interesting pickup line,’ until I re- While neither Day nor Roxann membered the scents were in the goody bag.” Paulson, executive director of mar- While Cattrall admitted that she’s been somewhat fickle over keting for Good Skin, would comment the years with fragrances, she says she’s found a keeper in Spark on projected sales for the product, in- Seduction. “It’s so subtle and personal,” she said. dustry sources estimate that it could She thinks her alter ego would have loved it, too. “Samantha would add $1 million to the brand’s sales in champion anything containing the word ‘seduction,’ ” she cracked. its first year on counter. —J.N. —J.N. PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 19, 2004 7

WWW.WWD.COM DKNY’s New York Elizabeth Arden Unveils Its New Look NEW YORK — Elizabeth Arden is preparing to float within the compact. A round center win- State of Mind give the beauty industry a hand — not to men- dow showcases the color inside. The packaging tion a little added color. was designed by Riccardo Gambaccini. NEW YORK — Donna Karan In January, the company will introduce both The brand’s core color user is currently 30- Cosmetics is preparing to take Eight Hour Cream Intensive Moisturizing Hand plus, according to the company, and Arden is another bite out of the Big Apple Treatment, a gel hand moisturizer that joins its hoping to broaden its consumer base — specifi- — in its continuing campaign to iconic Eight Hour Cream fran- cally to those in their mid-twen- add a little more juice to its chise, and a revamped eye and ties, said Genco. DKNY fragrance franchise. cheek color line — finishing a Arden will also offer a hand The brand plans to launch a restaging of its Color Intrigue cos- cream in its Eight Hour franchise, men’s counterpart to its just- metics line, a project Arden be- noted Samantha Gurry, director of launched Be Delicious scent gan last year with lip color. global marketing, skin care for this spring. As reported, Donna Eye and cheek formulas, as Elizabeth Arden. The fast-absorb- Karan Cosmetics gave interna- well as packaging, have been ing gel is formulated with, among tional retailers a sneak peek at revamped, noted Anita Genco, other things, glycerin to hydrate the men’s fragrance at a cocktail director of global marketing, skin, beta-hydroxy acid to smooth party for the women’s scent held color cosmetics, for Elizabeth it and vitamin E to protect it. A in Cannes, France, during Octo- Arden. New formulas for eye 2.5-oz. tube will retail for $15. The ber’s Tax Free World Associa- shadow, eyeliner, cheek color franchise, first introduced in the tion meeting. and bronzing powder — tweak- Thirties, also includes treatment- As reported, industry sources ed to offer more color payoff, related lip balms and the original estimate that Karan’s total beau- better blending and more com- facial moisturizer. ty business — a division of the prehensive shade offerings — Although none of the execu- Estée Lauder Cos. — currently The Be Delicious print ad. are on tap, as are color addi- Newly repackaged color items. tives would comment on project- racks up annual sales of about tions and changes for Dual ed sales or advertising spending, $150 million globally. It is believed that Lauder is aiming for a $250 Perfection Brow Shaper and Eyeliner. Arden industry sources estimated that the color cos- million to $300 million business for the division within the next will offer 28 eye shadows, each $13; six eye- metics stockkeeping units could add $10 million three years. liners, each $15; eight cheek colors, each $20; at retail in their first year on counter and that The Be Delicious men’s juice, developed by Karyn Khoury, sen- one bronzer, $27.50, and six brow shaper-eye- the hand cream could do $1 million in sales in ior vice president of corporate fragrance worldwide in cooperation liners, each $16. the same period in the U.S. Print advertising for with Givaudan, has top notes of grapefruit, juniper, quinine, green Arden’s cosmetics packaging will consist of a color cosmetics will begin breaking in February apple and coffee granita; middle notes of ocean mist, jasmine, cof- black compact topped with a smoky gray outer fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines. fee absolute from Africa and pomerose apple, and a drydown of ap- shell, with gold type and gold trim appearing to — J.N. plewood, coffeewood, dark woods and Indonesian patchouli. “Structurally, the women’s scent is built on apple, flower and wood notes, while the men’s is built on coffee and apples,” explained Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, senior vice president and general manager for Donna Karan Cosmetics. “The structure brings something new to the market — it’s edgy without being so edgy that men won’t wear it.” Kevyn Aucoin’s Legend Lives On The scent will be available in about 1,800 U.S. department and specialty stores in February, with a global rollout immediately there- NEW YORK — Despite the death of its founder Lip Pencil for $23 and Satin Skin Primer for $45. after. By April, the scent is expected to be in its full global distribu- in 2002, the three-year-old Kevyn Aucoin New shades also will be offered for existing tion, noted Gabai-Pinsky. The men’s target audience is expected to Beauty brand continues to expand, both in the products. The Elegant Lip Gloss, $26, and Expert fall in the 25- to 40-year-old age range. “Basically, we think it will ap- size of its assortment and in distribution. Lip Tint, $22, will both be available in three new peal the most to affluent young urbanites,” said Gabai-Pinsky. “Over the past couple of years, there have hues, and Liquid Shimmer, $21, will add pink Eaux de toilette in two sizes — 1.7 oz. for $42 and 3.4 oz. for $58 — been a lot of people wondering if the line could and gold shades. will be sold, as will two 3.4-oz. aftershaves, one a liquid and one a balm continue,” said Eric Sakas, creative director and “We haven’t missed a beat since and each priced $42; a 5-oz. shower gel, $24, and a 0.2-oz. lip balm, $16. president of Kevyn Aucoin Beauty. “I’ve never we launched it,” said Laura Saio, The eaux de toilette are housed in an amber version of the women’s once believed it wouldn’t, but there have been a merchandising manager of cosmet- bottle — a glass apple with a silver spray-through cap and a label that lot of critics. We’re really starting to prove our- ics for Henri Bendel. She noted that looks like an apple sticker. Outer packaging is of brown kraft paper. selves, to say that we can continue.” the line “continues to grow” and While neither executive would discuss sales projections or ad- The entire line — as developed by Aucoin — though there is quite a bit of time be- vertising spending, industry sources estimated that the scent would consists of 250 stockkeeping tween introductions, she believes it’s do upwards of $20 million at retail in its first year on counter, with units, of which 78 have hit a strategy that may not have been about $4 million expected to be spent on advertising and promotion. the shelves. “Each season planned, but works nonetheless. Both TV and print advertising are planned for the scent. Two ver- we roll out approximately While executives declined to sions of the print — one men’s-only and a second touting the master- 15 to 20 sku’s and then discuss sales estimates, industry brand — will begin breaking in March magazines, including GQ, beyond that we have a 10- sources expect Kevyn Aucoin Cargo, Men’s Health, Vanity Fair and In Style. year plan that includes Beauty to generate retail sales of $5 TV advertising will build on the existing TV campaign that was skin care, fragrance, bath million for 2004. developed for the women’s scent. Additional scenes, shot at the and body and everything The line is available at Henri same time as the women’s commercial, have been edited into the that was developed by Bendel and Neiman Marcus and spot, which show a hip young woman and man reaching for the Kevyn.” There is also a made its debut at Bergdorf Good- same apple at an outdoor fruit stand. Masterbrand TV advertising complete line of products Kevyn Aucoin Beauty offerings. man in early November. Going for- will begin appearing in March, said Diane Kim, vice president of for dogs. ward, plans are to roll out to an ad- global marketing for Donna Karan Cosmetics. The new spring products — set to make their ditional 10 Neiman Marcus doors by the end of An extensive sampling campaign — expected to get more than 20 mil- debut in March — will include the Gossamer 2005 and to be in the full chain by 2007. lion scented impressions to consumers — is also planned, noted Kim. Loose Powder in two shades for $62, Flesh Tone —Kristin Finn — Julie Naughton Madina Milano’s Trial Run at Victoria’s Secret Beauty LOS ANGELES — Italian cosmetics company Madina brand had previously made a debut with a store in New Milano made its debut Wednesday in a Victoria’s Secret York’s SoHo district in 2001, six months after the 9/11 Beauty store here. The test run brings the brand to 10 attacks, when the market was reeling and the store sub- Victoria’s Secret beauty stores in Los Angeles, Houston, sequently closed. “We’ve tried the freestanding store New York and Short Hills, N.J., through January. route with our SoHo location,” said Rachel Bryan, vice National makeup artist Christian Concas gave in- president of strategic marketing. “At the same time, we store makeovers to customers at The Grove shopping tested in Bergdorf Goodman. The products got a lot of center here and will appear at Willowbrook Mall in press and were well received, but based on those expe- Houston today, Short Hills Mall on Saturday and at riences, we decided in-store displays in specialty bou- the Herald Square store on a later date. He focused tiques was the strategy to pursue — for now.” on three looks: black-and-white eyes with a glittery Founder Madina Ferrari created a 129-piece collec- finish, bronze skin with orange and gold accents and tion focused on bright colors and bronze skin for the purple and pink lips and cheeks. launch, including products exclusive to Victoria’s Secret The nine-year-old brand with more than 1,000 sku’s Beauty such as Instant Glitter Gloss, Eyeshadow Duos hopes to make headway into the American market via and Fashion Gloss. Retail prices range from $14 to $21. Victoria’s Secret’s highly trafficked mall locations. The — Marcy Medina Getting a makeover in L.A. KEVYN AUCOIN PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; MADINA MILANO BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO JOHN AQUINO; MADINA MILANO BY PHOTOS BY KEVYN AUCOIN 8 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 19, 2004 The Beauty Report Garnier’s U.S. Growth Spurt NEW YORK — Thanks to a little green giant called Garnier, Nutrisse and Fructis umbrellas, the brand’s Here’s what’s on deck: six new shades of Garnier Fructis, Garnier is growing like gangbusters in the U.S. fleet of upcoming entries runs the gamut from hair color 100% Color, including a bleaching kit and Ultra-Lift At a fruit-filled press event held at L’Oréal’s corporate shade extensions and an of-the-moment “surf ” paste to a Browns, which enable users to lighten color four levels technical center this week, Maybelline New York- three-item range geared to the specific needs of medi- without brassiness, $7.29 each; Nutrisse Chocolate Garnier senior vice president of marketing um-to-long locks. Brown, a collection of four rich brunette shades, $7.29 Cheryl Vitali rattled off a barrage of statis- While Garnier executives would not dis- each; Nutrisse Nourishing Multi-Lights, highlighting tics attesting to the brand’s U.S. growth. cuss figures, industry sources forecast a kits developed to be gentle enough for even colored According to ACNielsen, as pro- first-year volume of between $75 mil- hair, $7.29 each; Fructis Style XXL Volume, a three-item vided to Garnier, in just four years, lion and $100 million retail for the lineup that taps into the “big hair” trend, $2.99 each; its ranking within the total U.S. new items. Fructis Surf Hair Matte Texture Cream, designed to hair care market has risen from give a beachy, tousled look sans grease, $2.99; Fructis 19th place to fourth. Per Gar- Sleek & Shine Deep Conditioner, the latest addition to nier’s own research, awareness the red-hot Sleek & Shine line, $5.99, and Fructis Long has also doubled in the past & Strong, an “anti-breakage strengthening system” year. On the Fructis front, one priced from $3.99 to $5.99. in three consumers — both Mike Indursky, vice president of marketing for male and female — have tried Garnier, seems especially hyped about Long & the line, a coup considering the Strong, a three-item assortment comprising Forti- Garnier subbrand is just two fying Shampoo and Conditioner and Weightless Anti- years old. Every second, two bot- Split Ends Treatment. Estimating that 67 percent of tles of Fructis are sold. Cheryl Vitali American females have medium-to-long hair, Indur- “It’s working,” said Vitali. “It’s and Mike sky views this breakage-plagued consumer subset as rocking.” Indursky a massive untapped market. Described by Vitali as “the single big- “This isn’t a niche,” said Indursky. “This is a gen- gest launch in the worldwide history of uine need of two-thirds of women. So for them, Fructis worldwide L’Oréal,” Fructis fairly exploded onto Long & Strong is big news. If your hair is stronger and the market in fall 2002. Buoyed by its eye candy Day- healthier, it grows longer. We’re the first to market on Glo packaging, tantalizing fruit scents and $100 million this and I think it will be absolutely huge.” ad budget, it added much-needed firepower to the Whether Long & Strong hits as big as Indursky pre- Garnier brand. dicts, there’s no question Garnier will continue to In short, Fructis has given Garnier a raison capitalize on the momentum created by Fructis. While Goes d’être. “Our goal — and it’s not small — is to have she was unable to attend the press event, Maybelline ption at least one Garnier product in every household New York-Garnier president Karen Fondu was still bathroom in America within the next year or eager to weigh in on the importance of the Fructis so,” said Vitali. “And we’re not far away from franchise to the overall brand. that right now.” “We were convinced that Garnier Fructis would To hit that lofty target, Garnier is launching revolutionize the hair care category in the U.S.,” scores of technology- and trend-driven hair said Fondu in a statement. beautifiers this February. Falling under the New entries for Fructis. — Dana Wood Maybelline Taps Troy Surratt for Global Role Benefit: On a Clear-Skin Mission NEW YORK — He’s officially not in Kansas Vitali’s sentiments. “We’re looking forward to NEW YORK — Benefit anymore. collaborating with Troy to inspire trends that Cosmetics is attempting to This week, Maybelline New York an- make a real difference in the mass arena,” wipe out blemishes with a nounced it has signed Troy Surratt as its con- she added. new treatment line called sulting makeup artist, a newly created posi- Raised on a Kansas farm, Surratt cut his Zaparella. tion. The multiyear deal, which is global in beauty teeth at the Lancôme counter in Inspiration for the line scope, will encompass both shade direction Topeka. Later, he obtained a degree in appar- — due out in February — and product development. Although the de- el design from New York’s Fashion Institute of came from the brand’s tails have yet to be hammered out, Surratt Technology, and worked at both DKNY and as eight-year-old product Boo also will function as a an assistant to Ran- Boo Zap, which the compa- spokesperson. dolph Duke. ny noted has been one of A former protégé of Eventually finding Sephora’s top-selling items the late Kevyn Aucoin, himself more intrigued since its launch. Surratt is considered a by the makeup on the “As a company we wanted rising star in makeup, runway than the clothes, to develop our skin care particularly on the Surratt returned to his business,” noted Benefit celebrity front. He has first love. In fall 2000, chief executive officer Diane worked with a wide he and partner Maur- Miles. “When you look at all array of personalities, een Kelly launched the the products out there, basi- from Mandy Moore, indie brand Tarte, a cally none have been able to Hilary Swank and Julia girly makeup range conquer the market of blem- Stiles to Maggie Gyllen- packaged in lavender ishes or acne.” However, she haal, Pamela Anderson “pleather” that was an said that Benefit is not refer- The Zaparella lineup. and Thalía. instant hit with beauty ring to the Zaparella prod- “The challenge was editors. By spring 2001, ucts as acne treatment because “that is medicinal.” Miles believes finding someone who however, citing his de- there is “big potential” for the brand in this category. really met up with the sire to return to celebri- The Zaparella lineup includes Ka-Pow, a cream intended for brand’s needs,” said ty and editorial work, nighttime use; Galactic Shield, a concealer that contains salicyclic Cheryl Vitali, senior Surratt packed in his acid and comes in three shades; Wooosh, a foaming face wash, and vice president of mar- Troy Surratt (left) at work. corporate duties. Bionic Blast, a body scrub intended to combat blemishes on the keting for Maybelline Surratt said he shoulders, back and chest. Boo Boo Zap, a spot treatment intended New York-Garnier. “We’re this huge, feels the Maybelline move was a natural next for daytime use, will also be repromoted with the line. All of the American, iconic brand, and the diversity of step in his career. “I love working with products in the Zaparella line retail for $18 each with the excep- women we appeal to is critical to our success. women,” he said. “And to bring all the tips tion of the body scrub, which is $20. So we needed to find somebody who had not and tricks and my knowledge of color to The colorful packaging boasts an image of the line’s “super only made a name for themselves and had women everywhere — on a global level — was heroine.” Benefit co-founder Jean Ford noted, “Zaparella was the done stunning work in the area of makeup really appealing to me. I’m also excited to use spokesperson for Boo Boo Zap and the one who conquered the boo artistry, but who could actually translate that my knowledge of product development and boo [blemish]. Everyone identified with the boo boo and they were for American women of all ethnicities and so- texture again.” also amused with Zaparella. So not to minimalize the importance cioeconomic backgrounds. Troy’s from the While he intends to keep up with his celeb- of blemishes and acne we decided to carry forward with Zaparella Heartland but has obviously been quite suc- rity work, Surratt is diving right into his new and bring out a collection of products that focused on blemishes.” cessful as a New York-based makeup artist. So role. “We’re shooting Josie Maran and Quiana Industry sources estimate the line could do between $5 million he understands how to translate that amazing [Grant] on Monday,” he said, referring to two and $10 million in first-year retail sales. New York style right back out there.” of Maybelline’s top faces. “I’m very psyched Initially, Zaparella will launch in approximately 100 Sephora Karen Fondu, president and general man- about that.” doors and roll out to an additional 270 doors in June. ager of Maybelline New York-Garnier, echoed — D.W. —Kristin Finn PRODUCT PHOTOS ERICKSEN KYLE BY AND INDURSKY JOHN AQUINO; VITALI BY WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 19, 2004 9

WWW.WWD.COM Healing Garden Does the 2-Step Avon’s New Best Friend NEW YORK — Avon By Molly Prior spokesmodel Salma Salma Hayek works hard for Hayek NEW YORK — Coty is out to prove the specialty her money. bath category’s bubble hasn’t burst. The company’s The actress stood by The Healing Garden brand will plant its roots deep- her cosmetics company er into the category it helped create seven years last week during its ago with the launch of 2-in-1 Moisturizing Body marathon of charity and Wash with Lotion, a cleanser said to moisturize as new product events. effectively as body lotion. Hayek landed in New The 2-in-1 product will go head-to-head with the York the morning of most significant innovation to hit the personal Tuesday, Nov. 9, to at- cleansing segment in recent years, Olay Moisturinse tend the premiere of In Shower Body Lotion. Since it launched last June, her new film “After the Moisturinse has generated $3.4 million in sales in Sunset,” in which she the mass retail channel (excluding Wal-Mart), ac- co-stars with Pierce cording to Information Resources Inc. Brosnan and Woody While Coty does not break out sales, industry The Healing Garden’s new 2-in-1 Moisturizing Body Wash Harrelson. New Line sources estimate The Healing Garden dual-action body Cinema and the Avon with Lotion. wash could ring up $2.8 million in sales in the first year. Foundation hosted the What separates The Healing Garden’s entry is that skin care, prompting The Healing Garden to drop screening and reception at the Ziegfeld Theater, donating tick- instead of adding another product to women’s shower its Spa Theraphy logo and rename its skin treat- et proceeds to the newly designated New York City Family regimens it knocks out a step, said Paul Seplowitz, vice ment line Body Definition. Justice Center in Brooklyn — a haven and support center for president of product development for Coty Beauty U.S. “The problem with ‘spa’ is that consumers view it victims of domestic violence. The event raised $85,000. Rather than compete on Olay Moisturinse’s turf, The as an experience — a massage or a facial — and Following an evening of fund-raising, the next afternoon Healing Garden will fortify its home base by merchan- don’t necessarily associate it with a specific skin she was the honored guest at a luncheon to introduce dising the 2-in-1 product in the specialty bath depart- benefit,” explained Griner. “We wanted to create a Avon’s 2005 product lineup. While beauty products were ment. “Because The Healing Garden is so established line that spoke to the idea of body contouring. In the centerpiece on each table, the conversation did not in the specialty bath category, it’s the best place for us Body Definition we’ve created a regimen of prod- stray far from Avon’s philanthropic efforts. to launch this product,” said Coty Beauty group mar- ucts to achieve a more fit, tone and firm body.” Speaking to an intimate gathering, Hayek admitted that keting director Kelley Woodland. While the products will retain their “natural” po- when Avon first came calling the actress had to give serious This year’s introduction of its Active Anti- sitioning, they have graduated to a higher level of thought as to whether to align herself with the direct seller. Cellulite Treatment product and body-toning creams technological sophistication, noted Seplowitz. Each After learning of the beauty company’s commitment to under its Spa Theraphy line were the first in what formula will now include Coty’s Pro-Firma3 complex, stamping out domestic violence, Hayek signed on as Coty has promised will be a vanguard of benefit- billed as an alpha hydroxy acid alternative that pro- spokesmodel last February. Since coming on board, she has laden products. The move toward serious skin care motes firmness, clarity and resilience. The restaged been won over by the quality of Avon products. Her 60-year- allows Coty to introduce premium price points in a line will also include the new dual shower product old mother has even adopted an Avon skin care regimen commodity-driven category. “Every item you intro- under the name 2-in-1 Skin Renewal Body Wash with and, according to her daughter, has no- duce has to perform at a higher level, which is why Lotion for a suggested retail price of $6.75. ticed a visible difference in her skin. we introduced a $12.95 anti-cellulite treatment in a Industry sources expect the retooled Body Hayek added that obviously the category filled with $5 products,” said Roslyn Griner, Definition collection, set to bow in February, to products work at any age. newly named vice president of bath and body for generate $12 million in first-year sales. The Mexican-born actress re- Coty Beauty. Griner’s appointment followed the de- Coty will streamline its specialty bath range as well. ferred to Avon’s color cosmetics parture of Coty’s senior vice president of global fra- The Healing Garden has nixed the tag line “Aroma collection, Beyond Color, as a grances Anastasia Ayala, who was credited with ex- Therapies for Your Mind, Body and Soul,” and re- “very important political state- panding the distribution of The Healing Garden. placed it with the more practical-sounding phrase, ment.” Avon is in the midst of Griner noted, “Shelf space is not growing, but “Natural, Science, Wellness.” The repackaged collec- re-staging the collection, companies have to find a way to grow sales.” tion features a larger logo and simplified message. which first launched six The company sees an enormous opportunity in The range, which currently includes White years ago. The effort will be Teatheraphy, Lavendartheraphy and Green fueled with the introduction Teatheraphy, will be organized by four core moods: of three new products: Lip sleep, sensuality, energy and relax. The change, due to Recovery Cream, Radiant debut this spring, will give the brand flexibility to cycle Lifting Foundation SPF 12 and in new scents to match those moods, noted Woodland. Daring Curves Mascara. The specialty bath line will also include the Lip Recovery with SPF Tomorrow by Avon. 2-in-1 Moisturizing Body Wash Lotion, as well as a 15 is a full-color lip treatment that is designed to repair dry, promotional 2-in-1 Clay Body Cleanser & Mask, a chapped lips through its Vita-Color Complex, an ingredient detoxifying formula that foams in the shower. said to boost cellular energy. An outgrowth of Avon’s Advertisements will break in May and rely heav- Retinol-infused lipstick, the click-pen lip treatment will be ily on print ads in beauty and fashion books. available this April in 12 shades for $8 a piece. Both Body Definition and specialty bath’s new This spring, Radiant Lifting Foundation will replace tag line mark the latest round of tweaks on The the two foundations currently in the Beyond Color portfo- Healing Garden brands. Coty began retooling the lio. Like Lip Recovery, Radiant Lifting contains Avon’s line three years ago when it created the soon-to-be- Vita-Color Complex. It also contains a three-dimensional Roslyn Griner, Kelley Woodland and Paul Seplowitz. extinct Spa Theraphy collection. polymer that, according to the company, forms an invisi- ble mesh to tighten and smooth skin. Avon’s consumer testing showed that in two weeks 71 percent of women PORE ME: Kao’s black-head zapping beauty brand Bioré will celebrate its new skin care said they noticed firmer skin and 60 percent said they collection with “No More Pore Excuses,” a contest that invites women to log onto its web saw less sagging. Radiant Lifting will be available in 16 TOP NOTES site and dish on their most embarrassing or funny blemish moment. A panel of judges, shades for $12 each. including celebrity facialist Julia March will pick the winner, who will get a “Facial with “Our customers expect makeup to multitask, to care and Friends” day at home. The contest begins Monday and runs through Dec. 21. to perform,” said Jill Scalamandre, group vice president, global marketing for Avon. COLOR CARE: This month, Cristophe expanded his Cristophe Beverly Hills hair care line, which bowed Daring Curves Mascara, billed as a thickening, curling in CVS stores last May, with Color Extending — a collection of products for color-treated hair. and defining formula, also boasts bold benefit claims. As Color Extending consists of shampoo and conditioner for $6.99 each, and a $9.99 Protect & Procter & Gamble’s Max Factor brand has done for its new Shine Spray. Each product formula includes vitamin C, creatine and Heliogenol, a sunflower Lash Lift mascara, Avon borrowed technology from its hair seed extract said to protect color from UV exposure. Heliogenol is also billed as a protein-rich care business to develop a formula that holds curl for up to ingredient that slows down the oxidation of hair dyes. A portion of sales from Color Extending, 12 hours. Its figure-eight-shaped brush makes it easier to outfitted in pink packaging, will go to support breast cancer initiatives. coat each lash, explained Scalamandre. The mascara will be available this May in six shades. LIP SERVICE: “American Idol” winner Fantasia is due to make a personal appearance at the Avon also introduced the second scent in its trilogy MAC Harlem store on Monday from 3 p.m. to 4 p.m. In addition, two new Lipglass shades, called Today.Tomorrow.Always. Following this month’s Fantabulous 1 and Fantabulous 2, will launch the same day at select MAC locations debut of Today, Avon will introduce Tomorrow in February. nationwide. Each retails for $13.50. Scalamandre described the scent, housed in an oval-shaped bottle, as a romantic, “whispering floriental.” Tomorrow BOTANICAL BEAUTY: Marionnaud Parfumeries this week kicked off an advertising campaign Color Extending by will be available in a 1.7-oz. eau de parfum spray for $30. in France that puts the spotlight on its 325 beauty institutes. The single-page ads, created Cristophe. At the luncheon, surrounded by posters of herself by advertising agency Hemisphere Droit, feature flowers being handled as if they were alongside Avon product, Hayek admitted she loves feeling people enjoying a beauty treatment. One of the ads pictures a pair of hands surrounding a tulip’s petals as if the glamorous. She observed, “It’s very important for women flower is being treated to a facial. Each ad features the tag line, “Because your beauty deserves as much attention to feel beautiful.” as a flower.” — M.P. HEALING GARDEN AND SCENT PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; CRISTOPHE PRODUCTS BY GEORGE CHINSEE JOHN AQUINO; CRISTOPHE PRODUCTS BY HEALING GARDEN AND SCENT PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 19, 2004

The HBA Report WWW.WWD.COM A Star Facialist’s Next Moves By Dana Wood NEW YORK — Anyone who doubts the clout of “celebrity facialists” hasn’t met Cornelia Zicu. The petite blonde dynamo, all penetrating gazes and measured tones, is about to make her bid for beauty fame in a big way. With a massive Manhattan spa and the first of three skin care ranges debuting next month, Zicu is staking her claim alongside such facialists-turned-powerbro- kers as Bliss founder Marcia Kilgore and L.A. superstars Ole Henriksen and Sonya Dakar. Not bad for someone who arrived here from Eastern Europe with $200 in her pocket. As she gestures with her diamond-laden hands, it isn’t easy to square Zicu’s past with her present. But here’s the Cliffs Notes version of her story: After fleeing with her young son to an immigrant camp in Belgium to escape political oppression in her native Romania, Zicu made her way to Austria. Aveda Casts Its Net There, she trained and worked as an aesthetician. In 1992, with the help of an international rescue NEW YORK — Aveda Concept Salon and Spa owners just got a The first of three planned Cornelia ranges. committee, Zicu and son arrived in New York. little richer. And if they happen to have their own Web sites, Within three years, Zicu had been named head they’ve pretty much hit the jackpot. aesthetician at the spa at the Peninsula Hotel. Throughout her nine-year stint there, Zicu built an A-list clien- In a move that benefits its 2,500 Concept Salon and Spa tele and acted as a consultant for two hot brands: Peter Thomas Roth and June Jacobs. partners in two key ways — through cash and customer refer- Now, with the backing of a silent partner, Zicu is striking out under the Cornelia name. While it’s a toss-up as to rals — Aveda has, at long last, entered the e-commerce arena. which of her endeavors — the products or the spa — is more ambitious, they each tap into her personal history. Through a new program called E-Salon, it intends to share the “Both sad and good things happened in Romania,” said Zicu. “Because we lived under a dictator, we didn’t have spoils of pent-up consumer demand and protect its brand health products and medication. But we were lucky to have our grandmas, who were the beauticians and the phar- image at the same time. macists of the family. They brought with them the recipes and remedies of the generations, using the best of nature.” “The volume of calls we get each month from consumers Dubbed Cornelia Signature, Zicu’s debut assortment is built around what she considers basics — all con- wanting to buy our products online is just enormous,” said taining a heavy dose of grandmother-sanctioned natural ingredients. In total, there are 14 items in the range, Mark O’Berski, Aveda’s vice president of consumer marketing including nine personal care products: 350-ml. shampoo, $35; 350-ml. conditioner, $37; 350-ml. shower gel, $35; and media planning. “And our salons have been wanting to sell 250-ml. body scrub, $28; 250-ml. body lotion, $60; 250-ml. hand wash, $35; 250-ml. hand cream, $60; bath salts, Aveda online, too. $45, and a set of three soaps for $45. The collection also includes six environmental items: room spray, $32; “But we wanted to wait to do it in a way that could involve our lavender and chamomile pillow mists, $32 each; signature candle, $70, and a set of three votives, $55. network — just like every other major project we’ve undertaken,” “Many people asked me why I’m starting with these [bath and body] basics rather than a line just for the O’Berski added. “The Aveda retail stores were designed from the face, but for me, skin is skin,” said Zicu. “Whether it’s on the hands or the body or the scalp, I treat it with the very beginning to be a concierge network — a way to refer cus- same curiosity, the same interest, the same respect.” tomers to salons. And the E-Salon program will also do that.” Two other product ranges — Essentials and Works — are in development and will be unveiled later this E-Salon, which is currently in the rollout phase, is confined year. While Essentials features targeted items for lifting, whitening, de-aging, etc., Works is geared more to Aveda Concept salons, which are distinguished by selling toward correcting problem skin. Both lines feature a blend of botanicals and only Aveda products. cutting-edge technology. “I believe in nature but I’m very impatient,” she Here’s how it works: For Concept salons with their own Web said. “I want to see results.” sites, customers can purchase products through a link from the While Zicu declined to discuss figures, industry sources forecast a salon site to Aveda.com. Each of those sales will generate a 25 first-year retail volume of $5 million for the three lines. percent commission for that Concept salon. For Concept salons The spa, christened Cornelia Fifth Avenue, is set atop without their own Web sites, customers can flag that particular Ferragamo’s Midtown flagship. The 20,000-square-foot, two-story salon when purchasing products at Aveda.com. Each of those sales space is sprawling in scope, and includes a large retail area, a will generate a 15 percent commission for that Concept salon. spacious lounging “library” and a rooftop garden for al fresco Cornelia Customers not affiliated with any Concept salon — a huge massages, weather permitting. “It’s a day resort,” said Zicu, “a Zicu chunk of Aveda’s business — will be referred to up to three in their little beauty island right in the middle of Manhattan.’’ area, according to zip code. “We feel the referrals are the strongest The spa menu, still unfinalized, is underpinned with little touch- part of this program,” said O’Berski. “From doing research, we es of decadence. During the $175 Signature Facial, for example, learned that among our online registered users of Aveda.com, clients will cozy up in 500 thread-count Italian sheets and choose from about 67 percent have never been to a Concept salon.” among 10,000 songs to zone out to while attended by two aestheticians. To expedite participation in the E-Salon program, Aveda will Although she hasn’t ruled out the possibility of wholesaling her provide the technical support. “We give them the creative piece products, Zicu said it isn’t an immediate priority. For at least a year, and the technical piece to link to Aveda.com to purchase the Cornelia Signature, Essentials and Works only will be available at the products,” said O’Berski. spa. “I’m not in a rush to make a profit,” she said. “This is my baby. And Aveda also handles the entire backend. “We do everything,” it’s always a big risk to put your child in the babysitter’s hands.” said O’Berski. “The pick-and-pack, the credit card clearance, shipping, order-tracking, customer service, program manage- ment. The salon has to do nothing. All they have to do is be part of the Concept salon network. Or if they want to earn the 25 percent commission, they have to download a button.” The New Inner Beauty: Faith-Based Brands Although Aveda products have long been available via the Internet, none of those sales were authorized. “We have this little By Holly Miller from a variety of Hawaiian hydrosols, the most basic problem called diversion,” said O’Berski, tongue firmly in cheek. unit of a flower’s scent and an alternative to the “We know there are places to buy our products online, but the NEW YORK — If Kabbalah can inspire a fashion line, concentrated essential oils often used in perfumes. The customer just isn’t getting the full Aveda experience that way.” why not faith-based beauty products? Three new hydrosols used by Mâlie Kaua’i include the indigenous While Aveda describes the E-Salon setup as beneficial to companies, Anakiri BioEnergetic Skin Care, Hawaii- Hawaiian flower Pikake, which, according to Mâlie both sides, O’Berski admitted the commission structure is fairly based fragrance house Mâlie Kaua’i and Faith acne Kaua’i, will become a new “It” scent in the industry. generous. “When you factor in the cost of doing business — the skin care products, are leading the spirit-seeking trend Ensuring the spiritual health of Mâlie Kaua’i products, rent, staff, equipment, etc., — we know 25 percent is probably in the beauty industry. These companies use words like the company hires kapunas (traditional Hawaiian a very good margin for most salons. In fact, it’s on the high “chi” and “soul,” and claim origins in locales far from healers) to periodically bless the line. side,” he said. “And that’s a very big incentive for a salon to join the madding urban crowds to evoke an approach to Faith, a skin care line dedicated to acne-prone skin, this program.” skin care that starts from within. isn’t just named for its founder, Faith Frankenfield, but New York salon owner Scott Buchanan, who operates four Anakiri, whose South American name means “one her unconventional habits, too. When Frankenfield, a Scott J. salons and spas (three Aveda Concept, one Aveda who leads,” specializes in skin and body care, licensed aesthetician with an emphasis on skin Lifestyle), eagerly hopped on-board, incorporating the program aromatherapy and apothecary. The company takes its disorders, first created the line, she prayed over her link on his Web site virtually as soon as he heard about it. “I cues from Native American rituals to create several of clients as the zit-zapping facial treatments set into think it’s fantastic,” he said. “My client is already an Aveda its products. For example, its SunFusion body oil, $27, their skin. Frankenfield prayed not only that the user, and this will only enhance those sales. And the fact that I is made by placing restorative herbs under sunlight, treatment would work, but to bless the herbs she used, don’t have to even think about shipping is brilliant. As an allowing its essences to infuse into the oil. Similarly, its as well. The line includes nutritional supplements, owner, I get all of the rewards with none of the hassles.” $17.10 RescueTone, supplemental oral drops said to pumpkin and sulphur mud masks, a cleanser and a “We feel this is a winning partnership all the way around,” soothe sorrow and trauma, uses “energy” derived from moisturizer. Prices range from a $20 pumpkin mask to said O’Berski. “The consumer wins, because they get the quality the herb star-of-Bethlehem. a $135 skin care system that includes all five products. and the convenience of buying the products they’ve always Mâlie Kaua’i, located on the island of Kauai — home The cleaning up of one’s spiritual house and one’s wanted to buy online. The salons win because of the financial of the fire goddess Pele and the private playground of pores are inseparable for the companies headlining benefit and the referrals. And Aveda wins, because we can grow celebrities — has created a fragrance line based on this trend. As the tag line for Faith says, it is now and protect the brand we’ve all worked so hard to establish.” flower essences. Essential Solid Perfume, $45, is made possible to “Embrace your outer purity.” — D.W. PRODUCT PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; ZICU BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA GEORGE CHINSEE; ZICU BY PRODUCT PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 19, 2004 11 WWW.WWD.COM Media/Advertising Sell-Through Still Nothing to Brag About

By Jeff Bercovici

NEW YORK — Maybe they should call it “single-copy returns” instead. SELL-THROUGH RATES: HOW THEY STACK UP The fact is that most magazine copies put out on newsstands aren’t actually sold at all, but end up being returned to distributors and, ultimately, dumped as landfill. It’s TITLE AVERAGE NEWSSTAND SALE AVERAGE RETURN DRAW SELL-THROUGH RATE an industry secret most publishers tend to hide except for that once-a-year time when postal regulations require them to publish a statement of ownership containing a Vogue 467,812 500,463 968,275 48.3% tally of sales and returns. W 54,247 61,925 116,172 46.7% Across the magazine industry, average newsstand sell-through — the percentage of copies distributed to retail that actually get purchased by consumers — has been In Style 922,856 623,497 1,546,353 59.7% falling more or less steadily since the late Eighties, and now hovers around 34 per- cent, according to circulation analyst John Harrington of Harrington Associates, pub- Elle 245,073 468,695 713,768 34.3% lisher of “The New Single Copy Newsletter.” After rising slightly in 2001 and 2002, the Harper’s Bazaar 185,128 237,958 423,086 43.8% average rate resumed its slide last year. “It really can’t fall much more [and be sustainable],” he added. Lucky 264,426 409,678 674,104 39.2% The reasons cited for this decline are familiar to industry watchers: an ever-increasing number of titles fighting for a shrinking supply of retail space, along with the decline of mass circulation titles such as TV Guide and the “Seven Sisters” women’s service books. 1,969,395 812,099 2,781,494 70.8% A look at this year’s batch of numbers shows that most major beauty and fashion ti- Cosmopolitan tles are outperforming the industry average for sell-through, in some cases by large Marie Claire 556,791 557,326 1,114,117 50.0% margins. The undisputed champion of sell-through is Hearst’s Cosmopolitan, which reported average newsstand sales of 1.97 million on a draw of 2.78 million for the 12 Glamour 968,847 1,072,812 2,041,659 47.5% months ended last August, yielding a rate of 70.8 percent. In Style (59.7 percent) and Marie Claire (50 percent) also came in way above the mean. Jane 130,864 257,303 388,167 33.7% As is the case with most launches, several newer titles reported lower-than-aver- age sell-throughs, including Elle Girl (26.5 percent), Teen Vogue (28.6 percent) and Cargo (24.9 percent). Their rates compare with category leaders Cosmogirl, with 43.3 Teen Vogue 250,440 626,094 876,534 28.6% percent in the teen sector, and Men’s Health, with 45.7 percent, in the men’s area. A spokeswoman for Condé Nast, which publishes Teen Vogue (and which, like WWD, Elle Girl 141,683 393,716 535,399 26.5% is a unit of Advance Publications Inc.), said the title’s sell-through rate is consistent with Cosmogirl 384,853 503,833 888,686 43.3% the progression shown by other recent launches, such as Lucky. A spokeswoman for Elle Girl parent Hachette Filipacchi Media made a similar point, adding that the title will Seventeen 321,006 527,714 848,720 37.8% spend more on promotions in 2005 while lowering its cover price from $2.99 to $1.99. Harrington said that low sell-through is usually the norm for launches. “If a new Teen People 415,033 574,830 989,863 41.9% title does not obtain special displays and still matches or tops the industry sell- through of 33 to 35 percent, it’s a hit,” he said. All figures from publishers’ 2004 statements of ownership, management and circulation.

LINING UP: Domino editor in chief Deborah carpet in the baby’s room was too large, they’re not media-savvy like we are,” said Needleman has roughly half her staff in and she hated the way it hid the border in Holley. “We had to instruct them in what place for the April launch of Condé Nast’s the parquet — because she had called ‘off the record’ means.” — Jeff Bercovici MEMO PAD shelter shopping magazine (like WWD, him. Twice…No, none of that was on her Domino is part of Advance Publications mind. But you would have found her HUM V: That buzz about rampant staff RELATIVE HELP: Us Inc.). Names curling down the masthead distracted, even nervous…She started a discontent at V and Visionaire? “Not Weekly is one place include editor at large Dara Caponigro, a conversation with her cell phone upside- true!” says editor in chief Stephen Gan. you won’t be reading 20-year veteran of the home category who down, speaking into the keypad…Hair Since V’s co-editor Alix Browne left the about Bijou Phillips’ previously worked at Elle Décor and was caught in lipstick; she never noticed. publication in September, reports have antics at Teen People’s House Beautiful; managing editor Sarah Something was on her mind. Taxes? surfaced that multiple staffers are taking Artist of the Year party. Min, who was also a managing editor at Summer camp applications? A sore tooth? steps to quit the twin titles after the The New York Post’s Vibe and Talk; senior editor Zoe Wolff, Books. Books were on her mind.” holidays. But Gan said no one has Page Six described her from Time Out New York; garden editor Whatever happened to starting with a officially tendered a resignation and, in earlier this week as a Lindsey Taylor, formerly of Martha Stewart simple roman à clef? — S.J. fact, he recently hired a new executive “Hollywood hellcat” Living Omnimedia; photo director Stacie editor for V, Julie Anne Quay, who and said she hit Teen McCormick, also from Martha Stewart, ALL THE REAL GIRLS: How’s this for long- previously worked Bijou Phillips at People’s music editor and Michele Outland, a Seventeen veteran term planning: By the time Elle Girl in Richard with her purse at the Teen People’s party in Los Angeles. who has been working on the Domino winds down its new “Class of 2008” Avedon’s studio bash. However, Us prototype as art director since June and series, the next presidential race will be and in the New Weekly editors spiked a similar story just was recently promoted to design director. in its home stretch. The first installment York offices of before closing their current issue. The Meanwhile, the design firm of the series, which will follow four Japanese Vogue. reason why depends on whom you ask. An Helicopter’s contract has been renewed, teenage girls from their first day of high Maya Camin, Us insider said, “[The editors] toned down so Ethan Trask and Josh Liberson will school through graduation, appears in formerly of the the item because of Jann [Wenner, Us’ continue working with the publication the December/January issue hitting David Lipman owner],” who has been characterized as through the launch. As for the focus of newsstands this week. While it’s agency, was also something between a family friend and the title, Needleman would say only: “My tempting to compare the feature to a recruited as a Phillips’ unofficial godfather. vision [for Domino] stems directly from reality TV show, editor in chief Brandon photo editor. As The current cover of V, Us Weekly’s editor in chief Janice Min what I wish were out there. My own sense Holley says it’s more akin to a straight- for an official appearing this week. said the decision to drop the story was as a consumer of what I want and wasn’t up documentary. In true nature-film replacement for Browne, Gan — who is made without any input from Wenner. in the marketplace — that’s really what’s style, each girl has a single, locally also creative director at Harper’s Bazaar “Basically we had a whole Hot Stuff item driving the magazine.” — S.J. based reporter assigned to follow her — said, “For the next issue, I’ve edited about Bijou’s wild week,” said Min. “The around for two days a month for the it with Chris Bollen, who was our features first report was that she almost got married PATNER’S PATOIS: Designer-cum-fashion duration of the series, the better to gain editor and basically Alix Browne’s right [to her boyfriend Danny Masterson of ‘That critic Josh Patner tries his hand at fiction her subject’s trust (think Jane Goodall hand. And for the issue after that, I’m ‘70s Show’] in Las Vegas. And the second for the new issue of Bergdorf Goodman’s among the chimps). going to be editing it with Stephen Todd. item was that she misbehaved at a party. magazine. But Patner’s hand must have Such an undertaking naturally involves He’s a freelance writer who lives in Paris. There was stuff in there about drinking and been a tad shaky because “Cassandra’s certain challenges. Although each of the It might sound like I’m moving around drug use, and in the end we weren’t Online Obsession” reads like a caffeine- girls has signed a contract agreeing to editors, but the way I do V is very much comfortable with the sourcing on it….So addled sketch rather than a well-worked cooperate for four years, one has already a collaboration.” Gan also hinted at late at night we just ended up turning it literary debut. The one-page piece — tried to drop out of school and is now future changes in the masthead: “Come into a wedding item.” Min added, “We about a Manhattan woman obsessed with receiving tutoring from her reporter. (So January, I’d like to have the freedom to gave [Jann] a head’s-up because he knows shopping online — opens with “It wasn’t much for journalistic neutrality.) Then decide if I want one key editor, the way Bijou, but by then the page had already that she didn’t notice the fiery purple there’s the question of how the subjects’ Alix was to me, or if I’ll be spearheading gone.” And by then, Wenner had nothing to light over the river or smile at the friends will react when they see it myself with a panel of different worry about — on page 52 of Us, Phillips particularly flashy way New York looked in themselves being kibitzed about in the editors.” And the résumés should be is benignly referred to not as a “hellcat,” a winter sunset. It wasn’t that she had pages of a national magazine. “They’re hitting the fax machine right but “rock progeny.” — Sara James forgotten to call the rug man — the very honest and forthcoming because about…now. — S.J. 12 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 19, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Gap Posts Flat Profits, Eyes Japan Growth

Continued from page one Aside from the three new Banana net earnings came in as Wall Street ex- Pressler, who called the company’s drop sales never really rebounded along with stores, which will open in busy Tokyo pected at $265 million, or 28 cents a dilut- in sales this summer “a few bumps in the the company’s wider turnaround. shopping areas, the company said addi- ed share, which included a loss on early road,” has otherwise been widely credited “We’re often asked, when is Banana tional Banana openings will follow in retirement of debt. That compared with a with redirecting Gap’s businesses and get- Republic coming to Japan?” said Paul Japan in the spring. Banana currently profit of $263 million, or 28 cents, last year. ting closer to the needs of the company’s Pressler, president and chief executive offi- has 450 stores in North America and an- Gap’s total revenues in the third quar- consumers amid an operational turnaround cer of Gap, in a Thursday statement. “We’re nual sales of $2 billion. Thursday’s news ter increased 1.3 percent to $4 billion that took hold in 2002. Banana Republic, for pleased to bring Banana Republic to Tokyo, comes on the heals of Gap’s September from $3.9 billion last year. By division, example, has taken a keener focus on bring- making Japan the brand’s first market out- announcement that it will launch in late sales at Gap stores were flat at $1.3 bil- ing more fashion to its product lineup. side of North America. Expanding our 2005 a test of nine to 10 store concepts in lion, Banana sales rose 5.1 percent to $538 Yet international sales at Gap stores brand portfolio in Japan builds on almost a the U.S. geared toward women over 35. million and sales at Old Navy were up 6.3 have been lagging the turnaround. In the decade’s worth of retail experience in that Andrew Rolfe, president of Gap’s in- percent at $1.7 billion. Same-store sales third quarter, sales dropped 7.6 percent country. Japan will continue to be an im- ternational division, will oversee the were up 2 percent at Gap — down 10 per- to $440 million. portant long-term growth market for us.” Banana expansion in Japan, while the cent internationally — up 3 percent at Outside of Gap, Banana and Old Navy Banana’s expansion into Japan isn’t Japan team will feed off the expertise of Banana and down 1 percent at Old Navy. stores in Canada, Gap stores are the com- entirely surprising, given that Gap said Banana brand president Marka Hansen, “Business softened early in the quar- pany’s only brand that has been taken fully several times this year it was seeking sig- the company said. In addition, a Japan- ter as traffic slowed and we faced an in- international. The company has a total of nificant growth opportunities. Addition- based merchandising team will tailor creased promotional environment,” 350 stores internationally as of Oct. 30, of ally, the company already has 75 existing style, color and fit assortments to cus- Pressler said on a subsequent confer- which 240 stores are in the U.K., Japan and Gap stores in Japan, including a Tokyo tomer preferences in the more fashion- ence call. He also cited mixed consumer France alone. International sales make up flagship, and other stores in cities such forward Japanese market. confidence impacted by high gas prices about 11 percent of total sales, according to as Osaka, Kobe and Nagoya. Meanwhile, in the third quarter, Gap’s and the presidential election. Wells Fargo analyst Mark Montagna. CITA Accepts 7th Petition Apparel to Be Hit by EU Tariffs

WASHINGTON — The interagency Committee for the Implementation By John Zarocostas of Textile Agreements has accepted for review a safeguard petition seeking to impose quota limits on imports of combed cotton yarn from GENEVA — Apparel figures prominently on a hit list of goods targeted by the European Union China, which were valued at $4.5 million in 2003. for imposition of retaliatory tariffs if the U.S. does not repeal the Byrd amendment. That brings the total number of petitions CITA has accepted for re- The Byrd amendment penalizes foreign companies that compete unfairly in the U.S. market view to seven and sets the stage for a final determination on many of by dumping goods — selling goods at below cost — or receiving government subsidies. At issue is the threat-based petitions in February. The acceptance for full re- the U.S.’s practice of distributing the penalty duties to U.S. companies hurt by the unfair compe- view now triggers a 30-day comment period, which will be followed tition. The practice was successfully challenged as an unfair trade practice by a World Trade by 60 days to make a determination. Organization panel in September 2002 and upheld in an appellate ruling in January 2003. China agreed to the safeguard measure when it joined the World The U.S. collected $728 million in penalty duties under that measure, which it then redistrib- Trade Organization in 2001. The 148 member nations of the WTO are uted to U.S. firms, from 2001 through 2003. The WTO has ruled the redistribution violates its rules. set to end the 30-year quota regime on Jan. 1. Brussels authorities plan to seek authorization to proceed with the tariffs at next The American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, National Wednesday’s session of the WTO’s Dispute Settlement Body. The list includes 65 categories of Council of Textile Organizations, National Cotton Council, SEAMS, apparel, textiles and footwear. American Fiber Manufacturers Association and UNITE HERE are Since the U.S. has not yet complied with the findings, a WTO arbitrator in August of this targeting some $1.96 billion in imports from China for continued quota year approved punitive sanctions against America equal to 72 percent of the duties it levied on restraints. The coalition has filed nine safeguard petitions in a wave of imported products from the EU and seven other WTO member states — Brazil, Canada, Japan, actions, seven of which have been accepted for consideration. It plans South Korea, India, Chile and Mexico. to reapply soon for three existing safeguard quotas on bras, dressing EU officials said they have not yet determined exactly how much their penalty tariffs will gowns and robes and knit fabric set to expire at the end of December. be or when they will be applied. They said they would prefer for the Byrd measure be re- AMTAC, NCTO and NTA filed the combed cotton yarn petition. pealed by Congress during the current lame duck session. However, if it is not, the punitive Imports of combed cotton yarn from China to the U.S. rose 23.7 per- measure are likely to come into effect in the new year, sources said. cent for the year ended Aug. 31 on a volume basis and China con- The lengthy list of goods targeted includes man-made fiber and wool coats and jackets; trolled a 2.9 percent share of the market for the yarn. U.S. production man-made fiber pants; cotton, synthetic fiber or silk dresses; clothing made of cellulosic of combed cotton yarn was $218.5 million last year. fibers; knit shirts of cotton or synthetic fibers, and wool, wool-blend, cashmere and synthetic — Kristi Ellis sweaters. Retailers Deliver Mixed Third-Quarter Results NEW YORK — Retailers reporting third- highly effective promotional strategies, Meanwhile, Jim Scarborough, chair- ing the period, and our small-, mid-size and quarter results Thursday were pleased careful inventory control and fashion- man, president and ceo of Stage Stores, large-market groups all had positive compa- how shoppers responded to fall merchan- right merchandise has enabled us to re- said in a statement that the company ex- rable-store sales results,” Scarborough said. dise sets, but disappointed over being port record earnings.” perienced a 4.3 percent same-store sales Scarborough went on to say that the forced into some markdown activity. Geiger went on to say that the current gain, which was driven by “the beneficial retailer’s buyers “have done an outstand- Regarding the fourth-quarter holiday base of 560 stores “is operating at pro- impact from the shift in our Texas sales ing job in selecting highly appealing sea- shopping season, they were generally upbeat. ductivity levels in excess of $500 per tax holiday weekend” as well as the “ac- sonal merchandise, and we are upbeat Boasting strong top-line growth were: square foot. We have grown quickly in cretive impact” of the Peebles stores ac- about our prospects for the upcoming The Bon-Ton Stores with a 65 percent in- the last six years and we believe we have quisition, which was over a year ago. holiday shopping period.” crease in sales to $297.8 million; Stage an opportunity for continued aggressive “In conjunction with this increase, most Michael D. Fisher, president and ceo Stores Inc. with a 44.2 percent gain to growth and to operate as many as 1,000 of our major merchandise categories of Stein Mart, said in a statement that $285.3 million; Dick’s Sporting Goods with profitable Aeropostale stores ultimately.” achieved comparable-store sales gains dur- “sales were driven by an enthusiastic re- a 60 percent increase to $541 million; and sponse to new fall merchandise and to Stein Mart Inc. with a 5.4 percent gain to the colorful assortments which have res- $330.4 million. onated with customers all year. Sales at ShopKo Stores fell 1.6 per- 3Q Retail Scorecard “Although markdowns had to be in- cent to $746.4 million while Kmart (figures are in millions) creased post-hurricanes to achieve our Holding Corp. dropped 13.7 percent. stricter inventory targets for in-season On the bottom line, results were 3Q 2003 3Q 2004 merchandise, that effort resulted in mixed. Bon-Ton’s earnings shot up 73.8 RETAILER SALES NET INCOME SALES NET INCOME much cleaner inventory levels for featur- percent to $7.3 million while ShopKo’s Aeropostale $220.0 $21.9 $274.6 $31.7 ing new fall and holiday fashion going doubled to $2 million. Stage Store’s net forward,” Fisher added. income dropped 26.4 percent to $9.5 mil- The Bon-Ton Stores $180.4 $(1.7) $297.8 $(0.8) At Dick’s, same-store sales gained 1.5 lion while Stein Mart narrowed its loss in Deb Shops Inc. $218.0 $4.2 $221.2 $7.3 percent. Strong sellers in the quarter the quarter to $2 million from $10.4 mil- Dicks Sporting Goods Inc. $338.2 $4.7 $541.0 $(1.8) were women’s and kid’s footwear and ap- lion in the same period last year. parel, team sports, cleats and accessories, The standout performer of the day Dillard’s Inc. $1,764.5 $(15.8) $1,698.9 $(18.7) as well as private label apparel, said was specialty retailer Aeropostale Inc., Kmart Holding Corp. $5,092.0 $(23.0) $4,392.0 $553.0 Edward W. Stack, chairman and chief ex- which delivered a net income gain of 44.7 ShopKo Stores $758.5 $1.0 $746.4 $2.0 ecutive, on a conference call Thursday. percent to $31.7 million on a sales in- “We continue to see very positive results crease of 24.8 percent to $274.6 million. Stage Stores Inc. $197.9 $12.9 $285.3 $9.5 in our women’s apparel business, both in Julian R. Geiger, chairman and chief Stein Mart Inc. $313.6 $(10.4) $330.4 $(2.0) the athletic apparel component and outdoor executive officer, said in a statement that and rugged outdoor component,” he noted. Aeropostale’s “unique combination of SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS. INCLUDES CHARGES AND ANY GAINS INCURRED DURING THE REPORTING PERIODS. — WWD Staff Plan ahead.

What to Watch 2005 Issue dates: December 6-10 Close: Three days prior to issue dates.

Category by category, WWD editors tell readers what’s on the horizon for the first half of 2005 — upcoming trends, economic impact, pop-culture influences and more. This insight and information provides industry executives with essential planning tools to move their businesses forward.

Be sure your best customers are watching your brand and making it a part of their plan for the future.

What to Watch markets: accessories, active lifestyle, beauty, contemporary, denim, designer, financial, fine jewelry & watches, innerwear, juniors, legwear, mainstream, media, outerwear, ready-to-wear, retail, sportswear and textiles.

For more information contact Ralph Erardy, senior v.p. group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 14 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 19, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM

Artists Light Up the Town SAINT-ETIENNE, France — This industrial town in central France is hardly a tourist destination, but it was transformed into a multicultural design metropolis for the Biennial International Design show, which ended its nine-day run here on Sunday. Founded in 1998, the fair showcases innovative and eclectic creations from the four corners of the world, with an emphasis on young, up-and-coming talent. A “bio- logical” clock on a heap of rice by 29-year-old Colombian artist Gabriel Sierra, a rug that can be converted into a chair by Belgian designer Laurence Bailly or single- serve egg cartons by Polish design coalition Nova Polska demonstrated a new anti- waste, functional attitude. Emblematic of the multinational approach, organizers convened the “Dakar Workshop,” where French designers worked with African craftsmen. The result: wicker lounge chairs and stilettos with a homespun flair. One attraction drew parallels between everyday objects in Scandinavia and Africa, and another was devoted to coffee and fashion shows by designers as far afield as Rwanda, Cambodia and India. Olivier Berghmans offered a fresh take on a chandelier, lining up several long, white candles in a circle and hanging them upside-down from the ceiling. Another artist, Valérie Windeck, made glass vases in the shapes of everyday cleaning products, such as a bottle of bleach or kitchen cleaner. — Emilie Marsh and Laurent Folcher

Lotus rug- Candle chandelier by Olivier Berghmans. chair by Laurence Bailly.

A view inside the “Missoni and Titian” exhibit. Biological clock by Colombian designer On With the Show, Missoni Gabriel Sierra.

MILAN — Ottavio Missoni shies away from the idea that his fashion work is museum material. Yet a new exhibit here makes an interesting case that Missoni’s use of zigzags, stripes, patchworks and mélanges Architecturally Minded in Minneapolis is more closely associated than would be expected with the work of Design painters who marked a turnaround in art by their use of color. Curators of the fashion museum in Ciliverghe di Mazzano, NEW YORK — Minneapolis may be out to What is equally eye-opening is that the outside Brescia, Italy, have juxtaposed a selection of Missoni’s recapture its “Minne-apple” nickname, bulk of the money for the new projects designs with 16th-century portraits from Tiziano, Tintoretto and Paris considering five big-name architects has been raised through private donors Bordon, all of whom based their works on color contrasts and limited use have rolled out blueprints that will dra- mostly during a recession, Fisher said. of contours. These artists can be loosely considered precursors to 19th-century matically change the city’s makeup. The Walker, for example, is doubling the Impressionists. The team of Jacques Herzog and size of its facility at a cost of $92 million. “I’m pleased, but the comparison makes me smile,” Missoni said. “I love art, but I’m Pierre de Meuron are working on the new When the doors open in April, there will not a connoisseur. I always think it’s amazing what you can do with the same colors — just Walker Art Center; Michael Graves is be a new performance space and theater, as in music, with the same seven notes, think of all the different tunes and melodies.” revamping the Minneapolis Institute of a Wolfgang Puck restaurant and scores of The exhibition, “Missoni and Titian: Color and Light from the Venetian Renaissance Arts and the adjacent Children’s Theater terraces and other public spaces. An to 20th-Century Fashion,” opened last month and runs through Feb. 27 in Ciliverghe di Complex; Jean Nouvel is renovating the enormous all-glass entrance will offer a Mazzano, an hour’s drive from Milan. Some of the paintings are being shown in public Guthrie Theater and Cesar Pelli is design- view of art and the sculpture garden. for the first time and are themselves a crash course in 16th-century fashion, with models ing the new Minneapolis Central Library. By pouring $125 million into its renova- posing in period costumes of elaborate embroidered velvet dresses, wearing their best The Walker is expected to be the first to tions, the Guthrie, the first repertory the- jewels, strings of pearls and family rings. open, in April, with the others expected to ater to open in the U.S., will have three per- The director of the museum, Massimiliano Capella, said this is only the first of a be wrapped up by spring 2006. formance spaces, including the restoration series of such exhibitions where art and fashion will be shown together. He plans to Thomas Fisher, dean of the College of of its thrust stage with oversized jagged stage similar juxtapositions every year. Architecture & Landscape Architecture shingles hanging from the ceiling. There “I wanted to start with Ottavio Missoni because he is a fashion designer who is also at the University of Minnesota, chalked also will be a cantilevered lobby that the artist and painter par excellence,” Capella said. “There has been sort of a shame and up the architects’ interest to the caliber extends over the Mississippi River like an reserve to showing paintings together with fashion. Artworks usually belong to of the institutions. outstretched arm. By wooing big-name museums, and although there are fashion exhibitions held in museums, art pieces are But Fisher said, “Being in the middle of architectural talent, Fisher said, “increas- generally not placed together with clothes.” the country in what some people call ‘fly- ingly art and design institutions realize they The Missoni exhibition is based on chromatic associations and comparisons rather over land,’ we have to try that much harder can put themselves on the global map.” than thematic links or a grouping of designs. to help make our presence felt.” That is something well-known by Luca Missoni, the youngest son of Ottavio, helped install the exhibit. He said the The flashy exteriors and innovative inte- Graves, who has rolled up his sleeves for portraits and the 15 clothing items dating from 1964 to 1994 and worn by faceless riors of the buildings should ramp up inter- the MIA’s $50 million three-story wing. mannequins positioned close to the artworks, were chosen according to the range of colors. est in what some might call a sleepy city. So He is, after all, a featured designer at “These are in harmony with the portraits,” he said. “There is the Rosso [red] Tiziano much so that residents are said to catch 23 Target Stores, another Minneapolis citi- and Rosso Missoni.” nights of decent sleep each month, ranking zen that has attracted a strong following A checkered mantel from 1973 brings out the different hues of brown, red and ocher in the Twin Cities number one in a recent sur- with its alluring designs. the painting behind it. vey of the best places to sleep. — Rosemary Feitelberg Luca Missoni said that, when his father and mother, Rosita, in the late Sixties created the brand’s “put-together” style — for example, a combination of striped skirt and checkered A rendering of the new Walker Art Center. jacket with a patchwork scarf — this daring look stemmed from the use of strong colors. “Green was green and there was nothing vague or indefinite about the hues, much in the same way these Venetian artists worked in the 16th century,” he said. Capella noted that the value of those colors also lies in the way they were combined in an ombré look, much in the same way the Venetian artists worked. Luca Missoni, who is in charge of the collection’s men’s wear and coordinates exhibitions around the world and manages the company’s archive and history, also set up tapestries and wall rugs, graphic designs, xerographies and panels with original fabric samples his father created. “His working methods and processes are not dissimilar to artistic creations, made by LKER COURTESY OF HERZOG & DE MEURON, 2004 LKER COURTESY

using yarns or fibers,” Capella said. WA — Luisa Zargani WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 19, 2004 15

Production Assistant RETAIL SALES Sweater manufacturer of JR’s apparel Exciting ground floor opportunity to PRODUCT MANAGER seeking two individuals to work in our be a part of a new high-end lingerie NY showroom to assist in foreseeing retail concept located in Manhattan’s Bryant Pk Duplex 1100, 2000, 4500 FT. CHF Industries, Inc.,aleader in textile home furnishings, all phases of production. Must have ex- Meatpacking District. 20 Ft Ceilings - Great Windows/Views has an immediate opening for a Product Manager in its New cellent communication skills to work The ideal candidate will be creative, SoHo-Sublet Penthouse 2000 FT with factories in Asia, detail oriented Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 York Office. The prospective candidate must be well organized, West Coast goal oriented and energetic, with and computer proficient. Bilingual strong communication skills and the detail oriented, and possess excellent PC skills (including preference, ability to speak and write Acct. Exec/Showroom Mgr. ability to cultivate client relationships. Excel and Word). A college degree in Textile or Business is fluent Chinese a plus. Please fax re- N.Y. based fashion showroom, Minimum 2 years relevant experience required and 3 to 5 years of similar experience is a plus. sumes to: 212-789-8682. The News, seeks an exp’d. & moti- required. vated Account Exec to manage Must have day, evening and weekend Responsibilities include: PRODUCTION availability working an average of 50 244 Mulberry Street-Nolita The News’ Los Angeles show- hours per week. 2,000 sq. ft with 22’ ceiling • Develop and analyze program profitability. Asst Prod’n & Fabric room. Minimum 2-3 years exp. Full time position eligible for a com- • Prepare and finalize costing, piece goods and packaging Allocation Manager working w/high-end Specialty/Major plete benefits package including Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 health and dental insurance, Long Term / www.dumann.com to ensure timely new product introductions. Must have exp in ladies’ dress Dept. Stores. Fax/E-mail resumes: business & strong in Excel. Short Term Disability Insurance, 401(k), • Maintain strong working relationships with customers and 212-925-1550 paid vacation and holidays. 488 Seventh Avenue Fax resumes to: 212-704-0462 suppliers. [email protected] Email resumes to LIVE/WORK [email protected] Small 1 BR SHOWROOMS...... $1575 • Interface with sales, design and operations to confirm Production Coordinator Large 1 BR SHOWROOMS...... $1795 customer requirements. Fast paced women’s sportswear and dress manufacturer seeks production Earn up to $100K per Year! RETAIL SALES Wood floors. Hi ceils. Doorman. Immed. Luxury Designer Collection seeks Sales 212-629-8694 - MON-FRI - NO FEE • Ensure product execution from design concept through coordinator with min 4 years exp in REVELLE - Women’s Clothing Mfr. based delivery to customers. import. Must be computer literate, detail- in Ft. Lauderdale, FL seeks a dynamic Person w/executive & social client follow- For Space in Garment Center oriented. Must have some exp costing Sales Professional to develop customers ing. Must have experience in designer garments. Great opportunity for growth. in the U.S. Candidate must have strong, women’s collection, abitilty to cultivate Helmsley-Spear, Inc. We offer a salary commensurate with experience and excel- Fax resume to: Jeff 212-382-0237 active contacts with specialty boutiques new business as well as a personal 212-880-0414 lent benefits. For consideration fax or email resume with a &department store buyers, and must sense of style. Salary / Benefits / Com- cover letter containing salary history to: be willing to travel. High earning potential mission. Please Fax resume 212-319-7730 Showrooms & Lofts for this position depending on capability. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Production Coordinator Please Fax or E-mail resume to: Great ’New’ Office Space Avail FAX: (704) 522-4704 Fast Paced Import Co. seeks experi- 954-791-6640 / [email protected] ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Email: [email protected] enced detail oriented indiv. Must have 3 years experience with casual woven Please put "Product Manager" in the subject line. bottoms. Excellent followup skills. EOE Must speak fluent English & Chinese. SALES ASSISTANT Salary commensurate w/exp. Fax Re- Person wanted to be asst to the princi- sume to: 516-681-1191 pal of a better sportswear and dress company. Must be extremely organ- ized and computer literate. Great op- Jamaica, Queens-Commerical ware- portunity for someone looking to ad- house for lease. 40,000 sq. ft. w/ Sample Room Manager vance or start a career as they will approx 4000 sq. ft. a/c office space + NY eveningwear company seeks expe- work very closely with the principal loading docks. Racking system + many rienced person to manage sample and will be trained in many areas of a amenities. Call landlord 516-997-2442 room & design studio. Must have good garment manufacturer. These areas in- organizational and computer skills. clude selling, merchandising and LAUER GLOVES FOR Fax resume to: 240-352-4830 oveseas production. If interested pls email only: [email protected] MEN & WOMEN Territories Available: Tech/Design Asst. Wisconsin/Upper MI New contemporary Jeans Line seeks some- Michigan/Ohio Yankee Candle Company, Inc. the nation’s leading designer, one with a great style sense and a keen Texas/Oklahoma eye for new trends. Must be organized SALES EXECUTIVE Complete line of gloves. manufacturer, wholesaler and retailer of premium scented and able to measure & fit garments. Looking for a salesperson with depart- candles is seeking a RETAIL SR. BUYER/CATEGORY MANAGER Should be exp’d. in Photoshop/Illustrator, ment store experience (2-3 years Since 1908. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, for our South Deerfield, MA corporate headquarters. Word, and Excel. Great opportunity w/ith minimum) for the following: newborn/ MILWAUKEE GLOVE CO. growing company. Fax: 212-719-0111 infant girls and boys playwear, as well Joseph J. Lauer, President PRODUCTIONS as layette. Traveling is a requirement. The Retail Sr. Buyer / Category Manager should be a talented Phone (800) 826-0514 All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Technical Designer. Create detailed de- Please fax all resumes to Call Sherry 212-719-0622. and experienced merchant who will focus on the candle and sign sketches, technical design specifi- 212-504-7900, or e-mail to home fragrancing areas. Must function superbly in a highly cations and complex master patterns [email protected] PATTERNS, SAMPLES, for women’s fashion apparel and leath- matrixed environment and have excellent visual presentation er garments. Bachelor’s degree in fash- PRODUCTIONS skills. Proven ability to identify and translate trends to bottom ion design and two years in job of- Leading Canadian Knit Co. Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine line. Great communication, negotiation and organizational fered. Mail resume to Ann Taylor, 1372 Specializing in rib, jersey, terry fleece, fast work. 212-869-2699. Broadway, 7th Floor, Dept EB, NY, NY jersey lycra, rib lycra, and other basics skills required. 10018. (at very competitive prices), seeks a well connected Sales Agent in the Mid- This position offers a competitive total compensation package. SALES TEAM west and NY surrounding areas. Please Please send resume with cover letter and salary requirements (Both Showroom & Independent) Fax resumes to: 514-739-9475 TECHNICAL DESIGNER This newly established brand, designed to [email protected] Wehave a current opening in one of by the talented Edna Lee is launching our Sara Lee Branded Apparel divi- her Spring 2005 young contemporary EEOC - M/F/D/V sions for a Technical Designer. line. We are now taking resumes for a REPS WANTED CHINA MANUFACTURING national sales team with openings Hot new concept of accessories for Hong Kong/Shenzhen China office Work with other designers to develop across multiple territories, both inde- Admin Since 1967 concepts for intimate apparel and con- boutiques & jewelry stores. Many opportunites available. Graphic Illustrator pendent & showroom positions opened. Vecceli Italy: 1800-658-1890 [email protected] struct base size patterns from concept Better store contacts a must, mini- W-I-N-S-T-O-N Looking for Men & Women’s designer sketches. Work on patterns to obtain Ask for Golan and also Graphic illustrator (hand draw- mum 3 years exp a must. Also, APPAREL STAFFING base size fit. Work closely with other mass merchant sales rep wanted for ing only). Please email resumes to: designers and sewing technicians to DESIGN*SALES*MERCH [email protected] sub division private label. ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION prepare patterns for different styles of Fax resume to 212-789-8682 (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 bras and panties and to Sales Professionals Needed: ensure high quality. Create first pat- LA, NYC, Chicago, Atlanta, Dallas Hair Designer terns, create method sheets, and cut Est’d. & successful Women’s Sportswear Apparel Staffing Co. marketing hair weave alternatives and arrange sample manufacturers. Co. is launching an exciting new designer See Career Openings seeks high profile Hair Designer; working Ensure that samples are of the correct Shearling Garments label for women. We are seeking exp’d. @ www.apparelstaffing.com knowledge of wig making, styling and standard. Fit and obtain approval of New, High-End Mfr. seeks Sales Reps Independent Sales Reps to successfully (We offer a cash sign on bonus cutting. Must be creative, dynamic, on the the base size, engineer garments to w/solid Dept./Specialty Store contacts. help the sell-in and launch of this exciting for job acceptance) cutting edge of fashion; and being comfort- achieve best costing and production Please Fax resume to: 212-337-0403 new women’s line. Seeking Sales People able in the spotlight. Send resume/photos methods, and be responsible for the with strong professional contacts with Designer of yourself & your work to R. Wolf at: garments’ measurements. Work with the best women’s boutiques in the mar- 38 Middle Neck Road customers’ design personnel on styl- ketplace. Great opportunity for the Trendy sportwear manufacturer seeks Great Neck, NY 11021 hip multifaceted designer capable of ing, quality and methods. Work with right candidate who is organized, detail EDI designing dresses and sportswear collec- Costing department to cost samples, oriented, motivated, highly professional, tions for major department stores. Must suggest and amend samples to obtain and well connected within the women’s COORDINATOR have experience working with sample Import Traffic Manager the best cost, and ensure that correct fashion industry. Please Fax resume to: room and have contemporary taste Branded fashion apparel house seeks components are supplied on costing for David Murphy @ 720-294-0833 Daily Processing and Back- level. Great opportunity for associate hard working team player to track manufacture. up of QRS/UPC/EDI trans- designer looking for the next step up. overseas shipments. Work w/ agents, Must possess a Bachelor’s degree in missions, ASN, LOT/ LINE/ Fax resume to Bruce 212-382-0237. brokers, truckers, and overseas factories Fashion Design or related field. In lieu catherine malandrino SKU/Item #’s. Excel, Out- regarding purchase orders & delivery. of a Bachelor’s degree in Fashion 2-3 years exp. L/C knowledge a plus. Design or related field, we will accept Retail Sales Professionals look, Word, Adobe. Assist Fax resume/salary requirements to: applicants who possess at least five accounts receivables with Design/Graphic 212-221-9287 Attn: Josh years experience in fashion design. In 652 Hudson proofing, chargeback, etc. Artist Assistant addition, applicant must have at least New Flagship Location PATTERNMAKER two years of additional experience Trusted Link Software A+. Fast paced women’s sportswear and with designing intimate apparel, Looking for seasoned and dress manufacturer seeks asst in all Young designer sportswear co. needs a including pattern making and pattern Please fax resumé to aspects of design. Must be proficient patternamker who is able to work from size grading for bras and panties. experienced Retail Sales in Illustrator, Photoshop, Word, and first pattern thru production, with Some travel is required. Professionals w/ a minimum 646-219-1641. Excel. Will be responsible for develop- knowledge of designer constructions, ing collection line sheets. Great flat and draping skills. Please fax salary This opportunity is located in our NYC of 2 years experience. sketching a big plus. request and resume to: 212-840-2657. office. You will enjoy competitive com- French a plus! Fax resume to Jeff 212-382-0237 pensation as well as the unique growth Admin/Production Asst. that accompanies working with the Open Casting North Jersey tailored clothing mfr industry’s best. For prompt, confiden- 589 8th Avenue seeks detail oriented production asst. Production Assistant tial consideration, send/fax/email your Must be able to multi-task and have EDI Coordinator Must be detail oriented w/knowledge of resume to: Sara Lee Branded Apparel, (at 39th Street), 13th Floor strong communication skills. Requires Dealing with 2 major accounts in EDI QuickBooks, able to develop purchase Attn: Human Resources, 260 Madison Thursday, November 18th contact with customers, vendors and transmission JC Penney and Walmart. orders, track.follow-up on production Avenue, 6th Floor, New York, NY 10016. 11am – 7pm factories. Minimum 5 years exp. Men’s Requires kowledge of using Desktop schedule, and communicate w/overseas E-mail: [email protected] Fax: wear background preferred, multilingual EDI, ASN Plus, and Cleo Lexicom AS2. factories via Fax/E-mail. Technical gar- (212) 850-2484 Principal candidates Friday, November 19th aplus. Fax resume to: 201-460-4471 or Daily maintenance on UPC catalogues. ment knowledge req’d.; Chinese speaking only, no recruiters please. Equal 9am -7pm E-mail: [email protected] E-mail resume: [email protected] a plus. E-mail: [email protected] Opportunity/Affirmative Action Employer WWDBEAUTYBIZ

February Issue PHOTOS BYCHINSEE GEORGE

WWDBeauty Biz goes behind the scenes to deliver an insider’s guide to how the Save beauty industry works. the Date Kick off the year in the issue that will energize the entire industry and set the Issue Date: stage for your brand’s success in 2005. February 11 Close: It List: Editors in Chief January 7 A Closer Look: Makeup Bonus distribution: CTFA, ECRM Cosmetic, Fragrance & Bath and 7th on Sixth

For information on advertising, contact Sarah Murphy, publisher beauty & marketing WWDMediaWorldwide, at 212-630-4656.