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Plum Creek Shoe Station Estes Park Mountain Shop Rocky Mountain Connection Outdoor World Jax Outdoor Gear 135 Moraine Ave. 2050 Big Thompson Ave. 141 East Elkhorn Ave. 156 East Elkhorn Ave. 950 E. Eisenhower 970.586.4061 970.586.5337 970.586.3361 970.586.2114 970.776.4540 Publisher Bill Ferguson Vacation Edition Editor John Cordsen Production Manager Tony J. Wedick Contributing Writers and Photographers Janice Mason Walt Hester Mike Oatley Juley Harvey Madeline Framson Suzanne Silverthorn Advertising Staff Mike O’Flaherty Karen Anderson Graphic Designers Tom McTighe Julie Skelton Bookkeeper Leslie Dawson Circulation Manager Jennifer Wurgaft Press Liaison Ron McFate Single Copy Distribution Jerry Kartawidjaja

The Vacation Edition is an annual publication of the Estes Park Trail-Gazette, a twice-weekly newspaper. The Vacation InIn ThisThis IssueIssue Edition is published in May. Offices: 251 Moraine Ave. Visitors’ Center ...... 2 Hydroplant ...... 42 Mailing address: P.O. Box 1707, RMNP ...... 3 Estes Park Museum ...... 45 Estes Park, CO 80517. Shining Mountains Group ...... 6 Shopper Shuttle ...... 46 Telephone: (970) 586-3356. Fax Postcards ...... 7 Grand Lake ...... 48 (970) 586-9532. Web site: Waterfall Hikes ...... 10 Highland Festival ...... 49 www.eptrail.com. (c) 2009 Estes Park Observatory ...... 11 Music Festival ...... 52 Vacation Planning ...... 13 Golfing ...... 53 Estes Park Trails ...... 14 Fourth of July ...... 56 Performance Park ...... 16 Midsummer Festival ...... 57 Cultural Arts Council ...... 18 Nature Association ...... 58 Art Center ...... 19 Moose ...... 59 Rooftop Rodeo ...... 22 Backcountry ...... 60 Ten Places to Fish ...... 23 Day Trips ...... 63 Lake Estes ...... 26 Trail Ridge Road ...... 65 On the cover: The Stanley Hotel ...... 27 Horse Shows ...... 67 Keyboard of the Winds as Wild Flowers ...... 29 Ptarmigan ...... 69 seen from Mills Lake. What To Do When It Rains ...... 32 Kayaking ...... 70 Climbing ...... 33 Nature’s Beauty ...... 71 The Little Matterhorn Bird Watching ...... 39 Advertising Index ...... 72 stands over the entrance Butterflies ...... 40 to Odessa Lake (Right). Cover by Walt Hester Inside by John Cordsen 2008 Trail Vacation Edition — 1

2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 1 First Stop The Visitors Center

he majestic scenery of Rocky Mountain the Estes Park Visitors Center, operated by the National Park combined with the home Estes Park Convention and Visitors Bureau, is a Ttown hospitality of Estes Park transforms perfect place to stop. Located at the intersection a trip to the Colorado Rockies into a dream of U.S. Highways 34 and 36, the Center pro- vacation in a corner of paradise. Whether com- vides information about every business in Estes ing for a day, a week, or more, visiting this east- Park and things to do in the area. ern gateway community to Rocky Mountain When it comes to providing complete visitors National Park, Estes Park, at 7,522 feet above services, the one component of excellence that sea level is an experience you’ll remember forev- sets Estes Park apart from other areas is the con- er. tingent of about 70 volunteers who donate their With world class hiking and climbing, fish- expertise and time to helping visitors have an ing, golfing, sightseeing, wildlife watching, gal- outstanding vacation experience in this area. leries, unique shopping, an array of dining Individual Ambassadors work on a rotating choices, options in lodging to meet every taste basis at the information desk in the Visitors and Rocky Mountain National Park out the Center daily during the summer season and on back door, there’s something in Estes Park just weekends from October through mid-May. for you. Ambassadors answer questions about where to Special events at Estes Park and summer-long hike, drive, shop, eat and stay in the Estes Park free outdoor entertainment are set amidst the area. They provide answers to common ques- backdrop of Rocky Mountain National Park. tions like “where’s a good place for me to hike?” Hear folk musicians entertain, listen to a string to more uncommon questions that deal with quartet perform, or tap your toes to a big band everything from human genealogy to botanical playing favorites. Beginning with Jazz Fest held knowledge. The CVB staff provides additional each May and continuing through the holiday expertise in planning group gatherings from season’s “Catch the Glow’ celebration, there are weddings and reunions to business meetings. special events here in Estes Park that will keep The Estes Park Visitors Center is open daily you coming back for more. except New Years Day, Easter, Thanksgiving and Here, you can be adventurous all on your Christmas. own. But when you want advice or assistance,

Visitors Center Summer Hours * 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily *Location: 500 Big Thompson Highway at the intersection of U.S. Highways 34 and 36. *Telephone: 970-577-9900 or 800-44-ESTES *Website: www.EstesParkCVB.com

2 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition The Jewel of the Rockies Rocky Mountain National Park achieved wildnerness status in 2009

ocky Mountain National Park River roads. Alpine Visitor Center is (RMNP) offers 415 square miles open depending on weather and Trail Rof dynamic landscape featuring Ridge road conditions. It is closed in lowland meadows, numerous lakes and the winter. rivers, aspen and subalpine forests, and Beaver Meadows towering mountain peaks. Over Visitor Center 250,000 acres of backcountry inthe park were granted wilderness area status Located on U.S. Route 36, three early in 2009 with the passage of the miles from the town of Estes Park. Omnibus Public Land Management Fall River Visitor Act of 2009. This culminated a process Center that began in 1974 when wilderness recommendations for the park were Located on U.S. Route 34, five miles made by the National Park Service west of the town of Estes Park, near the under President Nixon. Fall River Entrance to the Park. All of these aspects of RMNP create Kawuneeche Visitor an unparalleled outdoor playground where the possibilities are endless. Center Visitors hike its 360 miles of trails, Located one mile north of the town watch massive herds of elk, fish for of Grand Lake on U.S. Route 34 at the trout in its many streams and lakes, Photo by Walt Hester entrance to the park camp underneath its vast starry moun- Longs Peak rises above the clouds as seen from Trail Ridge Road. tain skies, or climb its epic granite rock Fees and Passes walls. RMNP HQ at (970) 586-1206 or visit restrooms, view topographical maps of Automobile: $20 - Valid for seven Nearly three million people visit www.nps.gov/romo. the park, and ask the park rangers ques- consecutive days, including date of pur- RMNP each year, making it one of the Visitor Centers tions. chase. most popular National Parks in the Alpine Visitor Center Pedestrians, bicycles, motorcycles country. Maps and brochures can be RMNP has four visitor centers where and mopeds: $10 per person, not to obtained at any of the RMNP visitor guests can see nature exhibits, purchase Located at Fall River Pass at the centers and for general information call RMNP books, buy gifts and snacks, use junction of Trail Ridge and Old Fall See Rocky: Page 4

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2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 3 Service, Fish and Wildlife Rocky Service, Bureau of Land Continued from page 3 Management and Bureau of exceed $20 per vehicle. Valid Reclamation. The pass series, for seven consecutive days collectively known as the including date of purchase. America the Beautiful – Available at all Rocky National Parks and Federal Mountain National Park Recreational Lands Pass. entrance stations. Fishing Rocky Mountain National Park Annual Pass--A $40 pass Fishing is allowed in desig- which provides unlimited entry nated areas in the Park; how- to this park for one year from ever, regulations vary from the date of purchase. Available place to place. It is required to at all Rocky Mountain National have a valid Colorado fishing Park entrance stations or at license at all times. Some areas 970-586-1438. are exclusively catch-and- Rocky Mountain National release. Observe postings care- Park/Arapaho National fully. Recreation Area Annual Pass--A Hunting $50 pass which provides unlimited entry to to both Photo by Walt Hester Not allowed in RMNP. areas for one year from the date Fishing is allowed in many areas of the Hiking of purchase. Available at all park. Photo by Tony Wedick Rocky Mountain National Park Getting out of your car and Moose are more commonly seen on the park’s and Arapaho National Recreation Area entrance sta- hiking the 360 miles of trails is the best way to west side, however, they are occasionally seen on tions. explore RMNP. Popular trails range from the easy and the east side, as was this bull near Sprague Lake. The National Park Service is an important partici- handicapped accessible paths around Bear Lake, Lily pant in the new Interagency Pass Program which was Lake, and Sprague Lake. More ambitious climbs up Guide,” is an excellent resource, as well as the various created by the Federal Lands Recreation Enhancement the fabled Longs Peak are also available for hikers. For information pamphlets provided by RMNP. Act and authorized by Congress in December 2004. a comprehensive analysis of the many hikes and Wildlife Participating agencies include the National Park climbs that RMNP has to offer, Lisa Fosters, “Rocky Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture - Forest Mountain National Park, The Complete Hiking The animals that live in RMNP are wild. Park visitors could potentially pose a threat to their natural habitat, and in turn the animals could harm visitors. To avoid conflict, do not feed any wildlife in the park because they can become dependent on human food, lose the ability to hunt, and possibly die. Animals can also kick, bite, or gore you. They can also carry diseases such as rabies and bubonic plague, which can be transmitted to humans. Photograph all wildlife from the safety of your vehicle or from the roadside. Approaching the animals frightens them and a possible fine may be issued to those who unnecessarily disturb the wildlife. Pets Pets are not allowed on Park trails, snowfields, or in the backcountry. A leashed pet may be walked in the campgrounds, picnic areas, and along roadsides. Never leave your pet unattended in a vehicle. Kennels are available in Estes Park and other surrounding communities. Leave No Trace In order to preserve the pristine beauty of RMNP’s Photo by Walt Hester natural landscape it is important for visitors to adhere A bull elk near the road is sure to garner a lot of attention from visitors. However, it is unwise to to the Leave No Trace outdoor mentality. For more approach the animal, it is also against the law. information, contact www.lnt.org. The Village Goldsmith, Inc. The Estes Park Bracelet™ The Estes Park Ring™ Exclusive to The Village Goldsmith, Inc. Exquisite Diamonds Exceptional Designs Exciting Colored Gems Handcrafted Artistry Since 1976

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2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 5 Paths of adventure The Shining Mountains Group of the Colorado Mountain Club offers hundreds of hikes and other outdoor adventures By Madeline Framson he Colorado Mountain Club offers a myriad of year-round opportunities for adventure. There are a multitude of ways to experience the wilderness Tinhabited by nature’s creatures in the ongoing quest to discover a sense of self. Thus, the Shining Mountains Group of the Colorado Mountain Club welcomes everyone to share in the beguiling mystique of the Rockies. The CMC is the largest and oldest mountaineer organization still existing in this part of the country. People in all walks of life and from all 50 states and countries abroad are members of the CMC. The members all believe in courtesy toward each other and nature - that’s the true mountain club spirit. Members are generally those who plan to visit and revisit the Rockies and want to participate in the mountaineering activities the club offers. It was natural that the lure of the Colorado Rockies would inspire 25 stalwart individuals, who shared a love of the mountains, to band together and charter the CMC in 1912. The group recognized the need to preserve a unique, pristine treasure. Its first goal was to see Rocky Mountain National Park established - a shining achievement in 1915. The club sponsors trips to all sorts of enchanting vistas. They range from leisurely nature walks in the Estes Valley and Rocky Mountain National Park, to expeditions climbing Mount Everest and the highest peaks of the world. The more than 3,000 recreational opportunities sponsored annually offer a kalei- doscope of outings. Each of the adventures is responsibly led along the sound princi- ples of safety. The locations range from plains and foothills to high alpine lakes and peaks towering more than 14,000 feet. The outings scheduled offer opportunities for anyone’s interests and capabilities; from easy to moderate to much more challenging adventures. The dimensions of the CMC are manifold. In addition to hiking and backpacking, add bike touring and mountain biking, technical climbing, canoeing, wilderness trekking, horseback trips, birding and nature walks, llama trips, photography hikes, historic hikes, picnics and socials. In the winter there is Nordic and downhill skiing, snowshoeing, ice climbing, ice skating, technical climbing, winter hiking and more backpacking. Many of the activities include interpretations by experts on wildlife, biology, geolo- gy, history, flora and fauna and ecosystems. Family trips including children and adults of all ages are very popular. Several events even allow sociable dogs to tag along. Within the club’s emphasis upon safety, the CMC sponsors many schools to help members improve their outdoor skills while having a good time doing it. Socials and potlucks are scheduled throughout the year and the annual dinner in November is always a highlight. While CMC membership is not required to participate in many of the trips, free literature covering CMC membership, details of the outings, degrees of physical Photo by John Cordsen demand, conditioning and qualification information is available by calling 586- The “Narrows” on the trail to Longs Peak is traveled by thousands each 6623. year.

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Winter Hours 20-50084 Monday-Saturday 8:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. Sunday 9:00 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. 970-586-3496970-586-3496 Stanley Village Shopping Center 461 E. Wonderview Ave., Estes Park 6 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Wish You Were Here Postcard Messages Describe Beauty, Enjoyment of Rocky Mountain National Park through the Decades

By Suzanne Silverthorn hey weren’t schooled as writers or poets or naturalists or scholars. Yet the words they leave Tbehind are remarkable in their simplicity and wonder. Their messages can be found on thousands of postcards that have been used by travelers to share descrip- tions of their journeys through Rocky Mountain National Park. Whether they were touring on horseback a century ago or with all the modern conve- niences of today, postmarks spanning nearly100 years tell the story of a timeless admiration of a special place. Take for example, the black and white image of Longs Peak dated August 6, 1905, in which the writer describes what he sees in a way that has been fre- quently retold. “Isn’t this beautiful? I can’t imagine a more delightful place.” Ten years later, the federal gov- ernment was also convinced of its beauty and Rocky Mountain National Park was established as the country’s tenth national park, spanning 229,062 acres. Before the area became a national park, Colorado had already developed a reputation for its spectacular beauty, beckoning visitors from across the country. A postcard picturing Hanging Rock near Estes Park and mailed in 1909 to a friend in Chicago expresses the anticipated excitement of a pending visit. “Will spend the next six days here and am anxious to start as it is the finest trip they say in Colorado way up in the mountains. Am having a delightful time.” Fast-forward another 60 years and a colorful postcard showing Grand Lake Village, the Western gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park, is sent to a couple in Ohio. The sentiments remain the same, “Having a wonderful time. There are no words to describe the beauty of these mountains.” Others tried their best to find words to describe the sights, including the often repeated “God’s country.” In 1914, a writer attending one of the early YMCA Conferences near Estes Park selected a postcard of In 1914, a writer attending one of the early YMCA Conferences near Estes Park selected a postcard Bear Lake to share his spiritual inspiration with a of Bear Lake to share his spiritual inspiration with a brother living in Washington state. brother living in Washington state, “Of course this scenery is ordinary to you, but it is to me magnifi- goes right along. We are having a fine trip and seeing their adventures in the Rockies. One such card written cent. But higher than the peaks is my soul born all we can with both eyes. We have just come through around 1920 is the third in a vacationers’ postcard toward God in these days of conference with men forty miles of the most beautiful scenery I have ever series. It pictures the Elkhorn Lodge in Estes Park and who do things. I am slowly coming to see the size of seen.” contains Xs marked on the card to show where they the work to be done.” An undated postcard likely sent in the 1920s or stayed. “The five marks show our windows. Two in No less inspired were the many visitors who simply 1930s pictures the interior of Grand Lake Lodge, then each room and the middle one for our bathroom. We came to relax and enjoy the peaceful serenity of the located within Rocky Mountain National Park, where pay $18 a week and things are in some ways quite mountains. In 1959, while staying at Fall River Lodge its guest describes a similar journey. “We drove forty primitive. As to bell service, we carry up our own ice and Ranch within the park, a writer describes her miles in four hours. Can you imagine the steepness? I water. But we can easily do that. We have good, hot return to “this lovely spot” to an acquaintance in am on the top of the world now. It is much beyond running water, and electric light, and everything is Michigan following a visit 10 years earlier. “The alti- my expectations.” clean. Charming people are here, but few in number. tude bothers me some this time,” she writes, “so I’ve The driving experience hadn’t changed much by We had a wonderful auto ride yesterday over the new been sitting, but to sit and look is perfect.” September 1952 when the author of a postcard show- Fall River or Grand Lake Road. We are so happy to be An altitude of 11,800 feet is noted in a postcard ing the town of Estes Park describes his trip over the here.” mailed in 1932 to a woman in Pennsylvania by a guest Rockies. “It was a near thing for the old Ford, but she Many visitors could hardly wait to return each sum- on the famous Circle Tour route which once traversed finally made it. We are 2,100 miles and seven days out mer to enjoy the scenery and renew old friendships in Fall River Road and was then using the newly opened of town, after 95 degrees across all Kansas and no real- and around the park. In July 1922, a postcard pictur- Trail Ridge Road which connected Estes Park and ly cool days anywhere.” ing the North St. Vrain Canyon near Estes Park was Grand Lake. In a postcard showing a hand-colored That would soon change for many RMNP visitors sent to a young lady in Wichita detailing the writer’s scene of Grand Lake, site of the largest natural body of who would often comment about the sudden changes discoveries at the YMCA. “The many improvements water in Colorado, the writer describes a trip that in the weather and their delight in taking part in a we find on our return here only makes a visit to the Y included a stop on top and an overnight stay at Grand friendly snowball fight in the middle of summer. A camp more enjoyable. Otherwise, same sunshine, same Lake Lodge, all of which “nearly equaled the Alps.” postcard sent in June 1957 shows a snow-covered Fall breezes, same mountains. Our cottage has on a new While sight-seeing has taken many forms through River Museum and Store at the top of Trail Ridge brown dress. They brought a new front porch for it the years, F.O. Stanley’s arrival in 1903 with his Road at 11,797 feet above sea level. Writing to an which extends past our bedroom window. Also real famous steam-powered automobile began a rubber-tire acquaintance in Kansas City, the author shares her windows. Can’t really say if the same squirrels play evolution in tourism as adventurers began exploring experience, “This is the way this looked yesterday under the bed. The dining hall is fully equipped up to the countryside in a fashionable new way. In 1916 a while we were there. The road was plowed open again the minute, and the eats can’t be improved upon. So postcard sent from the Lewiston Hotel in Estes Park to Thursday.” a gentleman in Illinois boasts, “The ‘Little Old Ford’ Some travelers used postcards as journals to describe See Cards: Page 8 2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 7 Cards Continued from page 7 life in Estes Park is up and quite a number at the lodge.” side of the park mailed to recipients in all joy. We drove Most lodges advertised their accom- Pennsylvania itemized a busy schedule: Ben all the way to modations as “rustic” to help set realistic “Up – 7:30. Breakfast – 8:00. To Stables the top to Bear expectations for their guests. In 1923 a – 9:00. Started 8 mile ride up Baker Lake – J.A. caught postcard of Grand Lake and the sur- Gulch – 9:30. Returned to Ranch – one fish which to rounding mountains was sent to a 3:30. Bath and Walk till 6:30. Dinner – date has cost him woman in Aspen by a guest staying at 6:30 to 7:30. Writing cards – 8:00.” $9 besides gas, sun- Grand Lake Lodge who may have been As would be expected, most of the burn and his wife’s surprised by what he found. “There is a guests took time to fish and to sample ‘I told you so.’” wonderful view from this lodge. fresh trout for dinner. In a postcard Then there is the Everything is so primitive. Had to start a sent to a Kansas town in 1916 pictur- 1937 postcard pic- fire in the iron stove this a.m. to get ing boat races in Grand Lake, this turing Meeker Park some hot water.” writer admitted to a slight distraction. Lodge on the South Guests, it seemed, could be as active “I am sorry Ruth that I haven’t taken St. Vrain Highway or inactive as they chose. A 1959 post- time to at least drop you a postal soon- which was mailed card from a guest staying at the er, but I have been so busy every to a woman in Holzwarth Guest Ranch on the west See Messages: Page 9 Boulder compli- menting the lodge’s owner, Crete Dever, and likely creating another loyal customer because of her hospitality. “Found a very nice new cabin when we arrived with fireplace so had our worry for nothing. Crete said she knew about what kind one would like. Everything is full

A postcard sent to a Kansas town in 1916 pictured boat races in Grand Lake.

The Estes Valley Recreation and Park District offers a wide range of activities as well as picnic areas and parks. Come join us for some indoor and outdoor fun! swimming ~ tennis ~ boat rentals~ bike rentals Lake Estes Marina 970.586.2011 9-hole golf ~ 18-hole golf ~ skate park ~ playgrounds Aquatic Center 970.586.2340 9-hole golf 970.586.8176 a walk around Lake Estes ~ baseball ~ fishing ~ picnics 18-hole golf 970.586.8146 Visit us online at… www.estesvalley recreation.com 20-18938

ESTES VALLEY RECREATION and PARK DISTRICT

8 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Messages Continued from page 8 minute. I go fishing most every same trip to keep the family tradi- people out there who have day, leaving the hotel in the morn- tion alive. On a postcard showing engaged rooms with them.” ing and getting back early evening the exterior of Steads Hotel in For many, a Colorado moun- for the festivities that always takes Moraine Park, a grandma writes tain trip remains a vivid experi- place after supper. And when I get to her grandson, “A great many ence for visitors returning home. tired, I just sit down and watch years ago, your mother stayed at The memories are shared with the mountains and the little the hotel shown in this picture family and friends and postcard mountain showers that occur most and it was then Sprague’s. Mrs. mementos are used to encourage every day. There are a lot of lovely Sprague is still living and tends other tourists to visit the area as people here and some very, very the post office near there. She is suggested on a Kansas-bound nice girls that I hardly know aged but seems bright and inter- postcard sent in 1926 when the whether to fish or go around with esting. There are many cottages writer says, “I want you to see this them.” about the main building in which next year.” Families who have visited the the guests live and board at the While seeing and documenting park in the past often encourage hotel. They keep an auto and the Rockies may be easier than other family members to make the come to town every day and take ever in today’s technologically- advanced world, the emotions within our hearts aren’t likely to change when it comes to express- ing our words and thoughts about such a favorite place. And so it goes: Wish you were here! Suzanne Silverthorn has been collecting postcards of Rocky Mountain National Park and the surrounding area for more than a decade. Many of her postcards are featured in the book, Rocky Mountain Tour, which chronicles Roe Emery’s famous auto tour through Rocky Mountain National Before the area became a national park, Colorado Park. The book is available through had already developed a reputation for its spec- the Rocky Mountain Nature tacular beauty such as Hanging Rock that becked Association. visitors from across the country. 20-19019

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2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 9 Cascades of Adventure Numerous waterfall hikes are within easy reach for the day trekker

ocky Mountain National Park offers many beautiful and diverse destinations. Among Rthe more scenic are the Park’s many waterfalls. Visitors find the soothing sounds of falling water mesmerizing, refreshing and very photogenic. The Park has a number of waterfalls, with most on the east side of the Park. The waterfalls on the Estes Park side of the Park are well worth the hike. There are approximately 20 major falls on the east side of the Park. Many of these waterfalls are listed on the official map visitors receive when they enter the Park. To locate those not on this map may require a more detailed map such as the Department of Interior geological sur- vey map of Rocky Mountain National Park. This detailed map is available at most book or sporting stores in Estes Park, or at one of the Park’s visitor centers. The waterfalls on the Estes Park side of RMNP are all worth the hike, but, the size of the waterfall depends on water volume and in dry time such as this year, this can vary. Seasonal flow of water also impacts the waterfalls. The spring melt is the best time for heavier water flow. For those who are limited to a vehicle for viewing a waterfall, the only one visible from the road is Chasm Falls. Viewers can also see the cascades at the Alluvial Fan. Both are located in Horseshoe Park on the Old Fall River Road and they can be viewed by walking only a few yards. The Alluvial Photo by John Cordsen Fan was once the location of Horseshoe Falls. The Photo by John Cordsen A hiker enjoys a sojourn at the base of Fern Falls. Falls were essentially eroded to their present appear- Mists rise from Briday Veil Falls. ance by the Lawn Lake Flood in 1982.

Photo by Shining Mountains Group Photo by Walt Hester Photo by Shining Mountains Group Photo by Shining Mountains Group Lost Falls. Alberta Falls. MacGregor Falls. Ribbon Falls. Waterfalls and where they are Miles Starting Lost Falls 5.5 Cow Creek or North Fork One Way Trailhead Lyric Falls 4.2 Wild Basin Alberta Falls .6 Glacier Gorge Junction Marguerite Falls 4.4 Fern Lake Bridal Veil Falls 2.5 Cow Creek Mertensia Falls 4.5 Wild Basin Chasm Falls .5 Endovalley Ouzel Falls 3.0 Wild Basin Copeland Falls .2 Wild Basin Ribbon Falls 4.5 Glacier Gorge Junction Fan Falls 7.2 Wild Basin Thousand Falls .2 Endovalley Fern Falls 1.5 Fern Lake Thunder Falls 6.5 Wild Basin Glacier Falls 1.3 Glacier Gorge Junction Timberline Falls 6.5 Glacier Gorge Junction Grace Falls 4.0 Bear Lake Trio Falls 5.0 Wild Basin MacGregor Falls 1.5 Twin Owls West Creek Falls 2.0 Cow Creek or North Fork

10 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Star-date 2009 — Captain’s log: heavenly sights at the Estes Park Memorial Observatory

By Juley Harvey f you’re looking to catch some star power, mosey on over to Estes Park’s newest star attraction, the Estes Park Memorial Observatory, located on the grounds of IEstes Park High School. A little more than three years in the making (hardly a nano-blink in star-time), the observatory celebrated its grand opening April 25, 2009. Mike Connolly, the patriarch of the project, began the quest in January of 2006. He wanted to build an observatory in memory of two of his star-struck children, killed in a motorcycle accident. Plaques with pictures of his children are in the lobby. Mike and Carole Connolly and Michele Johnson hope to honor the memory of Mike and Carole’s children and Michele’s siblings, Thomas and Christian Connolly, who died July 2, 2005. The Connollys all have backgrounds in science, math and astronomy. Mike, a retired engineer from Lockheed Martin Corporation, spent many nights viewing stars and planets with his children. “I think my kids would like it,” he said. His son was helping him to build a back-yard observatory at the time of the accident. Connolly had taken his children to visit the Little Thompson Observatory, where they developed a passion for astronomy. Connolly calls the observatory a great way to excite kids, providing them with hands-on experience of science, showing them through a telescope galaxies and stars that are 15 million light-years away. That light left its location in space before the dinosaurs died, he said. “Kids get excited. It’s a way of making hard sciences amenable and hands-on. They like the idea of doing it themselves,” Connolly said. Photo by Walt Hester Three years ago, Connolly started working on the legalities with the school district, started the 501(c) nonprofit and signed a lease with the school, under which Mike Connolly stands in front of the newly opened Estes Park memorial the nonprofit would build the observatory and the school would take back the Observatory, built in remembrance of his children, Thomas and Christian. lease for $1, after the construction was approved. The Angels Above Foundation maintains the telescopes and programs. The school district is responsible for the Students helped build the Star Wall, for which a projector shone images on the building, maintenance and insurance. wall. Students taped fluorescent stars of different sizes and colors on the wall. “We’ve already started two astronomy classes and built the Star Wall, a poor man’s planetarium,” he said. See Star-date 2009 page 12

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Board Certified Board Certified Board Certified Board Certified 20-50109 Family Medicine Pediatrics Internal Medicine Family Medicine Home of Rocky Mountain Catalog • 1-800-679-3600 2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 11 Star-date 2009 Continued from page 11 The Star Wall at the observa- “Under dark light, the stars fluoresce. It’s really cool. The kids love it,” tory was creat- Connolly said. ed with the In 2007, construction of the observatory began. help of stu- “The building went up quickly,” he said. “Roy Johnson of Johnson dents, who Construction did a great job.” placed the flu- The dome was provided by a specialty manufacturer in Loveland. They brought orescent stars it up in a truck. Volunteers placed an aluminum skin on the dome and mecha- in appropriate nized it. Those processes took from six to eight months. areas. Meinte Veldhuis was the main consultant. “He’s the president of the Little Thompson Observatory. He knows how to Connolly said. make it go. We depended on him and his connections, “Connolly said. Estes Park’s In November of last year, the dome was completed, and then established on the sundial will be roof. Since then, volunteers have been finishing the inside of the building. In built in coopera- January, they installed the school telescope. tion with the Astronomers saw the first light through the telescope in February and have held Rotary. The star parties with both middle and high school students. Rotary’s symbol “They love it,” Connolly said. “There’s more enthusiasm with the dome than will be placed in the center. with the scope — it echoes. They get a kick out of it, and the shutter and move- “There are very few communities that have an observatory to use in this way,” ment of the dome. Connolly said. “I just wanted to do something good. It’s having an impact. Local Several people have donated old telescopes to the observatory. So far, eight tele- communities — Boulder, Longmont, Loveland — can come up and bring their scopes have been donated, “nice scopes,” he said, some worth $1,000. kids…. I’ve been very lucky in finding the Little Thompson people. Without “We want to have enough so that kids can take them out and set them up on them, we’d have had to do it not very well. On the Web site, we have Observatory their own. That will give them a hands-on appreciation. They will learn how to 101 — things you’ll never think of, like putting in a furnace and the smoke and find stars,” he said. heat and where is the proper place to put the scope. I’ve learned quite a bit, but it’s The main telescope is computerized and there’s “no difficulty in finding stars,” a one-time thing. I want to get this one going, so I can turn it over to a group of he said. enthusiasts with the same ideals. It’s been pretty consuming for my wife and me. The installation of a sun dial is planned for the area by the end of summer. We’ll get into the astronomy finally. The good stuff is coming.” “A person can stand in the center and his shadow casts the right time,” For more information, see the Web site at www.angelsabove.org.

Photos by Walt Hester

Mike Connolly and astronomer Steve Little check out the telescope.

12 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Vacation planning - Estes style Organizations have full event schedules for visitor planning By Janice Mason fter a fun day in the in the great outdoors, catch a theater production, stop in to an art opening, go to a concert or tour the museums. Estes Park has a Afull schedule of activities to please the entire family. Convention and Visitors Bureau (CVB) The CVB Visitors Center offers ample parking and shuttle service through town and into Rocky Mountain National Park. The center, located at 500 Big Thompson Avenue, has increased visitor services, making vacations in Estes Park a relaxing, fun-filled experience. Helpful volunteer ambassadors assist visitors, providing maps and information. Brochures and souvenirs are located in the lobby. Community events are listed on the CVB Web site — www.estesparkcvb.com. Click on Events and then Calendar for vacation planning information. For more information, call the CVB at (970) 577-9900 or 1-800-44-Estes. Art Center of Estes Park The Art Center of Estes Park Fine Art Gallery features juried original art by Estes Valley and regional Colorado artists in a broad range of media. The center offers featured artist’s exhibits throughout the year, as well as a revolving collection from more than 40 members. The gallery provides exhibit space for school children and aspiring artists. The center also offers art classes, slideshows and educational programs. The Art Center of Estes Park is located at 517 Big Thompson Avenue in Stanley Village. For more information, call (970) 586-5882 or visit www.artcenterofestes.com. Cultural Arts Council of Estes Park The Cultural Arts Council of Estes Park Fine Art Gallery presents visual and performing arts programming year-round. The arts council will be celebrating one full year in its new gallery, located at 423 W. Elkhorn Avenue (directly in front of Performance Park outdoor amphitheater). For more information, call (970) 586- 9203 or visit www.estesarts.com. Estes Park Museum The Estes Park Museum collects, interprets and preserves local history through permanent and temporary exhibits, programs and events. The museum educates visitors, exploring the rich history of Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park. The Estes Park Museum is located at 200 Fourth Street off of Highway 36 just west of Lake Estes. Museum admission and programs are free. For more information, call the museum at (970) 586-6256 or visit www.estesnet.com/museum. Estes Park Music Festival The Estes Park Music Festival offers a splendid summer concert series by the Colorado Music Festival, conducted by the world-renowned conductor Michael Christie. The Music Festival presents a free Patriotic and Pops concert by the entire Colorado Music Festival orchestra in July. It also presents a Sunday afternoon con- Photo by Walt Hester cert series at the historic Stanley Hotel, November through April. For schedule A youngster hops along the Riverwalk. information, call 586-9519 or visit www.estesparkmusicfestival.org. Estes Park Public Library Performance Park Outdoor Amphitheater The Estes Park Public Library offers a Summer Reading Program for children, Performance Park outdoor amphitheater is located at 417 W. Elkhorn Avenue at provides meeting space for a variety of community programming and free Internet the west end of the Riverwalk. The beautiful rock backdrop creates impeccable service by appointment. Visit the Estes Park Public Library at 335 E. Elkhorn acoustics with a lawn in front of the stage, and tables and chairs along the river for Avenue, call (970) 586-8116, or visit www.estes.lib.co.us. visitor’s picnicking convenience. Performances take place May through August. For schedule information, call the CVB at (970) 577-9900. Fine Arts Guild of the Rockies Rocky Ridge Music Center The Fine Arts Guild of the Rockies brings theater productions to the Estes Valley year-round. They also offer the Fine Arts and Crafts Festival in September. Rocky Ridge Music Center (RRMC) is a summer music center/camp for mid- For more information, call the Cultural Arts Council of Estes Park at (970) 586- dle school, high school and college students. They offer chamber and orchestral 9203 or visit www.fineartsguild.org. Theater ticket information can be obtained by music, private lessons and music theory for all types of instrumentalists. Student calling the Macdonald Book Shop at (970) 586-3450. and faculty concerts are offered throughout the summer at RRMC, located at 465 Longs Peak Road. For more information, call (970) 586-4031 or visit www.rock- Estes Park Senior Center yridge.org. The Estes Park Senior Center has a busy activities schedule and serves weekly Stanley Museum lunches at noon. The Senior Center is located at 220 Fourth Street and is open Monday through Friday. The Senior Center Summer Breakfast Buffets are open to The Stanley Hotel, built by F.O. (Freelan Oscar) Stanley of Stanley Steamer the public and held on June 13, July 11, Aug. 8 and Sept. 5, from 7 a.m. to 11 automobile fame, opened on June 22, 1909. The Stanley Museum is located at a.m. The cost is $7/adults, $3/children ages 4 to 7, free/children under age 4. No 517 Big Thompson Avenue in Lower Stanley Village. For more information, call reservations are needed. For more information, call the Senior Center at (970) (970) 577-1903 or visit www.stanleymuseum.org. 586-2996 or visit www.estesnet.com/seniorcenter.

2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 13 Along the trail

By Janice Mason ark the car and take a stroll. Enjoy the view from Lake Estes, the wildlife or the sound of the rolling water along the Riverwalk. Trails, winding around Pand through Estes Park, makes the town a pedestrian’s delight. Lake Estes Trail Park at the Visitors Center (500 Big Thompson Avenue) and follow the Riverwalk east to Lake Estes. Go the distance around the lake (3.75 miles) or just enjoy a short stroll. Wildlife and magnificent views of Rocky Mountain National Park are the main attractions of the Lake Estes Trail. Riverwalk From the Visitors Center, walk through the underpass and hike west into town along the Riverwalk. Take a seat on the outdoor patio of an Estes Park restaurant or coffee shop. Enter shops from the back door along the Riverwalk and enjoy Estes Park shopping and nature along the way. The Riverwalk Wiest Plaza expan- sion, starts at Moraine Avenue and winds up to West Elkhorn Avenue. Catch the trail across the street where it turns into Fall River Trail. (The downtown Riverwalk is a pedestrian-only trail.) Fall River Trail Fall River Trail starts at West Elkhorn Avenue, behind the waterwheel. Walk west to Performance Park outdoor amphitheater where visitors enjoy music performances all summer long. Stroll into the West Park Center and check out the Cultural Arts Council Fine Art Gallery. The trail continues west along the Fall River and will eventually link to Rocky Mountain National Park. Photo by Walt Hester Knoll-Willows Trail A runner takes a summer trek on Lake Estes Trail. From Bond Park, in the center of downtown, enter the Knoll-Willows Trail Fish Creek Trail from the north side of the Municipal Building. The trail winds up to the historic Birch Cabin and the ruins, which feature excellent views of Estes Park and Rocky Enter Fish Creek Trail on the southeast end of Lake Estes. Go south along Fish Mountain National Park. Another trailhead starts at the top of Wonderview Drive, Creek Road past the high school and the Estes Park Golf Course. Enjoy the view across from the Stanley Hotel, and leads to the ruins. of Longs Peak along the way.

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2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 15 Performance Park Outdoor Amphitheater The place to find the music and the fun Compiled by Janice Mason very best of classic rock, contemporary rock, R&B, Motown, swing and blues with a kick of country. Wednesday Nights at Performance Park Aug. 12 — The Dave Davis Band Sponsored by the Town of Estes Park The band plays unique arrangements of songs by groups like, John Fogarty and Concerts start at 7 p.m., weather permitting the Moody Blues, with originals thrown in to the mix. Aug. 19 — Dick Orleans njoy a musical evening in Estes Park’s outdoor amphitheater. Bring a picnic, Folk, easy listening, rock, bluegrass and jazz, Orleans blends them all into a set a lawn chair or blanket and listen to numerous performers during the sum- of music played on his stylized guitar. Emer months. Performance Park Amphitheater is located at 417 W. Elkhorn Aug. 26 — Ron Ball Avenue, on the far west end of town. Artist and cowboy musician, Ron Ball, plays songs from the Old West. Wednesday night schedule Thursday Night Live June 24 — Midnight Moon Sponsored by the Cultural Arts Council of Estes Park Killian Lee (Roger) Wade and Jeanne Dee play classic country, classic rock, 423 W. Elkhorn Avenue, in front of Performance Park blues and big band music. June 25 through Aug. 27 July 1 — Richard Geppinger Concerts start at 7 p.m., weather permitting Ministry musician Richard Geppinger performs. July 15 — Kim Lankford & Scott Wilseck Performing country-western music, Lankford on guitar is accompanied by he Cultural Arts Council of Estes Park has been providing summer concerts Wilseck on honky-tonk piano. on Thursday nights for 10 years. The 11th annual, 2009 line-up includes: July 22 — Elk Hollow Tthe Longmont Concert Band, Elk Hollow, Estes Park Village Band and Local favorites Jack Overly and Gary Reeves perform folk tunes while entertain- Riverside Ramblers. ing the crowd. The Longmont Concert Band is a nonprofit organization composed of volun- July 29 — Vic Anderson teer musicians from the surrounding community. Vic Anderson, 2003 Western Music Association’s and International Male The Village Band features up to 50 members from the greater Estes Valley who Yodeling Champion, will perform original, classic and contemporary Cowboy perform a variety of music from classic marches to contemporary. tunes. The Riverside Ramblers are an Estes Park-based, eight member band, playing Aug. 5 — Deja Blu trombone, tuba, trumpet, clarinet, piano, banjo, drums and vibes since 1992. Deja Blue is known for their high energy shows, playing a danceable mix of the

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2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 17 Cultural Arts Council of Estes Park Art at its finest

Compiled by Janice Mason tep into the spacious Fine Art Gallery and take in the sights and sounds of music and art. The SCultural Arts Council of Estes Park showcases renowned regional, national and international artists in its Fine Art Gallery. Musicians play the piano during opening receptions. The arts council serves the Estes Valley, providing Art Walk maps of area galleries. The council also offers information on area arts organizations to the public. The most anticipated event this year is the national tour, “Art And The Animal,” arriving in Estes Park on May 30. A favorite event for landscape lovers is the “Estes Park Plein Air” event, taking place in August and September annually. ‘Art and the Animal’ Most residents and visitors to the Estes Park area expect to see chipmunks, squirrels, deer and elk — but hippos, polar bears, whales and giraffes? From May 30 to July 5, a whole world of animals can be viewed at the national 48th annual tour of the Society of Animal Artists (SAA) tour, “Art and the Animal.” The Cultural Arts Council of Estes Park will host this prestigious show at their Fine Art Gallery located at 423 W. Elkhorn Avenue. “It is a true compliment to the arts community here in Estes Park and the arts council’s new facility to be chosen as part of this important national tour,” said Lynda S. Vogel, Cultural Arts Council executive director. During the exhibition, the Fine Art Gallery will have expanded hours, group tours and activities geared for children and families. A tour catalogue, Photos courtesy Cultural Arts Council of Estes Park miniature works by a select number of SAA artists, and 63 paintings and sculpture are available for view- Award-winning artist, David Harms, paints in plein air (on location) in Rocky Mountain National Park ing. for the August through September event. The Cultural Arts Council Fine Art Gallery will be open seven days a week from the hours of 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. during the tour. “Imagine all the fun of taking children on an Art Safari right here in Estes Park,” said Vogel. Admission is $5 for adults, and children 12 and under are admitted without charge when accompanied by a paid adult. ‘Estes Park Plein Air’ Beauty and inspiration go hand-in-hand when artists come to the Colorado Rockies to paint the parks this summer, on-location, from Aug. 15 to 28. Given a 50-mile radius in which to work, subjects include Rocky Mountain National Park, forests, river canyons, scenic highways, people and places in Estes Park or cityscapes found in the various Front Range The Fine Art Gallery houses a piano, adding communities. This event has garnered national atten- music to opening receptions. tion, and opening day is the place to be if you are a The public is invited to watch artists paint in the savvy collector of fine art. field. A chalkboard with daily locations will be avail- Once the painting period ends Friday, Aug. 28, an able in the Fine Art Gallery throughout the painting exhibition and sale the new works is held Aug. 29 period in August. through Sept. 30, at the Cultural Arts Council of The Cultural Arts Council of Estes Park enhances Estes Park Fine Art Gallery and Earthwood the quality and accessibility of visual and performing Collections in Estes Park. arts for people of all ages and has brought program- “Our event is successful due to the collaborations ming to the state of Colorado as a 501 (c)(3) non- between the galleries and the artists,” said Vogel. “The profit arts agency since 1990. It provides free or eighth year will feature many outstanding artists, and affordable arts programming and acts as a vital infor- EPPA has gained recognition, placing Estes Park as a mation and support resource for the arts community. premier arts destination. Patrons anxiously await Summer hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. The opening day, and the quick draw and auction have Cultural Arts Council of Estes Park, located at 423 W. become a must-see with those who have a passion for Elkhorn Avenue, is handicapped accessible with ample fine art. The glory and the majesty of Northern “Saved by a Feather” by Susan Labouri is part of gallery-front parking. For more information, contact Colorado is forever captured on canvas, paper and the “Art and the Animal” tour, showing May 30 the Cultural Arts Council at 586-9203, cacep@earth- board.” to July 5 in the Fine Art Gallery. link.net or visit www.estesarts.com. 18 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Art Center of Estes Park Celebrating artisans’ creativity and passion

By Janice Mason sors: Vivian and Ron Gordon. Sept. 18 through Oct. 4: “Lines into rtists unite in cooperation and revelry Shapes” Annual National Juried Show fea- at the Art Center of Estes Park. Cared turing all media. Sponsor: Art Center of Afor and fostered by regional artists, the Estes Park. center brings a mix of media that fills the Oct. 9 through Nov. 15: “Inspirational spacious sunlit gallery in Stanley Village. Discoveries,” featuring Mary Jo McGillivary, Established in 1987, the Art Center of watercolor and oil paintings. Reception Estes Park presents revolving exhibits by sponsors: Cynthia Price Reedy, Margaret artists. Each month, a featured artist or and Lyle Jensen, Linda and Del Hope. artists are selected to bring a collection of Nov. 20 through Dec. 31: “Elemental work into the gallery. More than 40 local Transformations,” featuring Vickie Mastron and regional artists display a wide range of Cody, glass/mixed media. Reception spon- media. sors: Chris Switzer, Susan and Gil Anderson. The center also offers art classes, slide pre- The Art Center of Estes Park is a non- sentations and educational programs to the profit organization, which provides a facility community. Classes are offered for children to support and promote the work of local in the summer and youth scholarships are and regional artists. The proceeds benefit available to cover the cost for inquiring stu- both the artist and contribute to the Art dents. The gallery also provides exhibit space Center’s educational and community out- for those aspiring artists. Photo by Janice Mason reach programs. The “Lines Into Shapes” national show in The Art Center of Estes Park is located in Stanley Village. The Art Center is located at 517 Big September brings artists from across the Thompson Avenue in Stanley Village, and is nation and abroad to display a diversity of handicapped accessible. Summer hours are 10 a.m. to work. From sculpture to paintings, photography to 5 p.m. daily and the all exhibits are free and open to jewelry, the annual “Lines Into Shapes” exhibit pre- the public. Winter hours are Friday through Monday sents the most anticipated event of the year. Awards from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. For more information, call are presented in numerous categories. 586-5882 or visit www.artcenterofestes.com. Remaining 2009 exhibits Art Center of Estes Park opening receptions are typically held on the first night of each exhibit from 5 to 7 p.m. Refreshments are served. June 26 through Aug. 2: “Three Cups of Tea,” featuring Susan Anderson, clay and mixed media; Suzie Bogard, clay, painting and mixed media; and Candace Newlove, clay, mixed media and fiber. Reception sponsors: Susan Moore, Carole and Ed Haslock. Profits from sales will be donated to the Greg Mortensen’s Central Asian Institute. Aug. 7 through Sept. 13: “Beauty of Nature,” featuring Carol Gregory, photography. Reception spon-

Courtesy photo This pendant by Arielle Brackett was Photo by Dick Orleans featured in 2008 Lines This photo of a hummingbird by Dick Orleans Into Shapes. was featured in 2008 Lines Into Shapes.

Courtesy photo Courtesy photo This work by Kathy Thaden appeared in 2008 Lines Into Shapes. Geoffrey Hastings entered this still life in 2008 Lines Into Shapes. 2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 19 Cross the private bridge into Fall River Village. Our stylish 2 bedroom condominiums will captivate you with true Colorado living. Your front door is only seconds away from fly fishing and kayaking. Take a nice evening stroll from your front porch and within minutes you’ll be in downtown Estes Park. Make Fall River Village your mountain resort home in Colorado. Fall River Village A Resort Community Daily, Weekly, Monthly Rentals Available www.fallrivervillageresort.com 970-577-0121 1-866-577-0121 Fall River Village A Resort Community LOCATED IN ESTES PARK, COLORADO • Gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park • River Front Maintenance Free Living • Luxury 2 Bedroom, 2 Bath Homes • 3 Minute stroll to Downtown (Along the Riverwalk) • Year Round Outdoor Pool and Spas • Golf, Boat, Hike, Shop and Dine • Rental Properties Available All Seasons Name three more reasons to have your vacation home in Estes Park… Fall, Winter and Spring! Hiking, camping, biking, golfing, fly fishing, Rooftop Rodeo, sightseeing, shopping, dining, Coolest Car Show, 14teeners, kayaking, Longs Peak Scottish Irish Festival, backpacking, cross country skiing, Christmas Lights Parade, snow shoeing, Rocky Mountain National Park, aspen fall colors and more. Fall River Village is also your gateway to world travel… affiliated with Resort Condominiuums International (RCI). Condominium Homes with optional RCI Home Exchange, available for purchase. Inquire at Fall River Village Resort Community. 20-50098

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Voted best small rodeo committee again in 2008, Estes Park’s Rooftop Rodeo is ready to run again this July. Cowboy, cowgirls, rodeo queens and the best animal athletes on earth will be on display at the Stanley Fair Grounds, and during the annual Rooftop Rodeo Parade on Tuesday, July 7, 2009. Here are a few images from the 2008 rodeo by Walt Hester.

22 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Photo by Mike Oatley An angler stalks a pod of trout rising in a glassy pool on a late fall 10 places to a outing in Rocky Mountain National Park.

bubble), or a small spinner with lightweight spinning gear. Both of the long shorelines on the north and south sides of the lake, accessible from the Lake Estes Trail, catch a fish can be productive when fished this way. If you’re not finding fish along the rip-rap You can fish for anything you want here, as or rocky shorelines, stay on the move. long as it’s a trout Big Thompson Canyon There are more than 20 miles of public water on the Big Thompson between Estes Park and Loveland, with the heart of it By Mike Oatley 2being about 10 miles of catch-and-release water from Olympus Dam down to the Waltonia Bridge, a stretch of water that has come to be known as one of the his is trout country. In addition to native greenback cutthroats, brook trout, premier fisheries on the Front Range, and the closest thing to a year-round stream brown trout and rainbow trout inhabit most — but not every — fishable fishery anywhere in the immediate area. Rainbows and brown trout are the quarry, Tbody of water in the area (check Rocky Mountain National Park's fishing with numbers of ‘bows highest closest to the dam and the proportion of browns brochure for a list of lakes that are fishless before heading into the high country). increasing steadily as you move downstream. Fish up to 16 inches are fairly com- Since regulations vary from one body of water to the next, or even on one mon, and its not uncommon to find fish rising to a brief, mid-January midge stretch of the same river to the next, it is important to know the rules that are in emergence. The Big T is a popular and busy place on any fishable day, so plan to effect where you plan to fish. Treble hooks, bait and keeping fish are not universal- fish carefully through the beat you find to fish rather than try to cover a lot of ly allowed. If you are fishing barbless flies and releasing all of your fish, you are water, and be aware that private land holdings are interspersed with public lands in good to go on any water that is open to fishing - but bear in mind, that some the canyon. waters associated with greenback cutthroats recovery projects are closed during the spawning season, or closed entirely. Sprague Lake Another kid and bait friendly place to fish, and one of the few places bait is allowed in the national park. Sprague is inhabited primarily by Lake Estes Got kids? Want to fish bait or keep fish? Lakes Estes is the place 3brook trout, with the occasional out-sized brown trout turning up in the for you. Stocked annually with thousands of catchable-sized rainbow trout by catch.The lake has a healthy population of damselflies, and a damselfly nymph 1the Colorado Division of Wildlife, the big impoundment on the Big fished around weed beds is often productive. Thompson River also holds wild brown trout, yellow perch, walleyes and a very few tiger muskies hanging on from earlier attempts to establish them by stocking Wild Basin Simply put, Wild Basin is a fly fisher's paradise. The main attrac- (one was caught last summer). tion is the main stem of the North St. Vrain, coursing down from its head- When the lake gets calm and glassy, you can often find cruising trout taking waters at Thunder Lake and above, but there are also several fishable tribu- midges off the surface all across the lake, and fly anglers can catch them on a size 4 taries and numerous lakes in the high country that provide outstanding fishing at 18 Adams Parachute. The best way to consistently catch fish at Lake Estes i s by casting a streamer such as a Woolly Bugger (with a fly rod, or behind a casting See FISHING: page 24 2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 23 Fishing Continued from page 23

the end of long, lung-busting hikes. Browns and brookies predominate from the Park boundary upstream, with a few rainbows mixed in here and there and green- backs and other cutts showing up the farther upstream you go. Timing is important in Wild Basin: while the North St. Vrain does have a bit of a reputation as a stream that runs cold early in the season, is a challenge to wade around the high flows during snow melt, and is slow to kick into gear after run-off and quick to shut down in the fall, the fishing can be very good, and the Basin is a corner of the Park that can feel somehow apart from the mountains that surround it, especially when you are down streamside among the mossy trees on a drizzly August day.

Moraine Park Meandering stretches of the Big Thompson and Cub Creek wind across the wide-open expanse of Moraine Park, the confluence of the 5two coming just upstream of Bear Lake Road on Moraine's eastern edge. Small brookies outnumber everything else by far but some very nice brown trout lurk under the undercut banks. Here's the catch: there is no shelter from the wind, and many non-anglers walk the banks, making the fish spooky and hard to catch. Also: big brown trout don’t get to be big brown trout by being pushovers. Target the brown trout with streamers fished to undercut banks. For brookies rising in the pools, fish midges, or terrestrial patterns like ants, beetles and grasshoppers. You are also likely to find yourself sharing the stream from a few to very many elk (note that there are foot traffic closures in effect in the fall)

High country lakes The season in the high country is short. The ice comes off sometime in late June or early July in most places, and by early October, 6the weather can get dicey. Wind is often also an issue, not to mention the afternoon thunderstorms of the July and August monsoon season that can drive you off the water almost as soon as you get there. Also, getting there can be a lot of work. But the payoff can be fantastic: there are bigger fish to be caught than in the smaller streams below, and they are not necessarily picky eaters. At the height of the season, the fishing can be what the guides call “stupid good.”

Photo by Mike Oatley See FISHING: page 25 The biggest trout you will find will almost always be brown trout.

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(970) 586-5324 1-800-827-8780 (24 Hours) 20-19018 MOUNTAIN BROKERS MOUNTAIN 24 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Fishing Photos by Mike Oatley Continued from page 24 Brook trout, above, are common in RMNP streams, but the real prize is the greenback cutthroat, the only native trout to the region. Upper Colorado River On the west side of the Park, the Upper Colorado meanders down the Kewanuche Valley. You might share the stream with a 7bunch of elk, or even a moose or two. Here, the Colorado is an intimate place to fish compared with the brawling, canyon-carving behemoth it becomes as it picks up water from tributaries downstream.

South Fork of the Cache la Poudre The Poudre begins on the Continental Divide, at Poudre Lake near Milner Pass, and flows north toward the Park's 8boundary, gathering water, before turning east and blasting down the Poudre Canyon toward Fort Collins. From Milner Pass, where Trail Ridge Road crosses the Divide, a hiking trail hugs the Poudre all the way to the Park boundary.

Lily Lake Considered a “demonstration lake” in the recovery of the greenback cutt, Lily is the most accessible greenback fishery there is. The lake is 9rich with aquatic life, and the trout in it can grow to the 20-inch mark. Just be aware that a large section of the lake is closed to angling from late spring to mid-summer to protect spawning fish (though they actually cannot spawn success- fully in the still waters of the lake) and that all angling is strictly by single, barbless hooks and all fish must be released immediately. Headwater streams This is where you go to get away from the crowds. Hike in your wading boots, carry your rod and don't sweat the fly 10 selection. Pick a squiggly blue line on the map and go. Big Thompson Photos by Sandi “You Pick The Spot, I’ll Take The Shot” Indian Village NEWNEW LLOCATIONOCATION VISIT OUR UNIQUE SHOP 304 East Elkhorn Behind Range Realty Collectable Handmade Indian Jewelry Certified to photograph Navajo Rugs • Baskets • Pottery • Sand Paintings in Rocky Mountain Mill Creek Wildlife Sculptures • Moccasins • T-Shirts National Park Old West Collectables PHOTO TOURS 1348 West Highway 34 PHOTO GALLERY Big Thompson Canyon Loveland, CO 80537 Wildlife & Scenic (Framed and Unframed) (970) 667-9353 [email protected]

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2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 25 Down at the lake Lake Estes is the hub of many recreational opportunities

ake Estes is the hub of a lot of recreation in the Estes Valley. Boating, biking, fishing and just going for a pleasant stroll are a few of the activities people head Ldown to the lake for. The lake is an impoundment on the Big Thompson River, formed when Olympus Dam was completed in 1948. The lake also receives water from Marys Lake, through the Estes Power Plant, and Fish Creek. Lake Estes Marina One of the great pleasures of the Estes Valley is being on the water early or late in the day, when the water is glassy and the surtrounding mountains are lit by rich light. The Lake Estes Marina at 1770 Big Thompson Drive (US 34) is the center of action at the lake. The marina has a dock in the water through the summer, a boat launch, and a range of boats for rent, from one-person kayaks to a pontoon, and fishing licenses and tackle are also available, along with snacks, drinks and other items you might need for a day at the lake. If you are headed for the Lake Estes Trail, the marina is a great starting point, and also has a variety of bikes (singles, tandem, and surreys) available for rent, along with child carriers. The marina also has a sand beach, volleyball, horseshoes and picnicking areas, and a pavilion that can be reserved for group get-togethers. You can reach the marina at 970-586-2011. Lake Estes Trail Jogging, skating and biking are allowed on the Lake Estes Trail, along with walking, and the trail is popular loop for regular exercise walkers. More than likely, you will get a good close look at some elk as you make the roughly four-mile loop, especially as you pass along the edge of the Lake Estes Golf Course or around Cherokee Draw on the opposite side of the lake. Elk like hanging out in both locations. Beside the marina, there are several places to access the trail. From US 36, the main access point is Cherokee Draw, just east of the Estes Power Plant. From US 34, access the trail from the Convention and Visitors Bureau or from Fisherman's Nook at the Lake Front Drive. Fishing The 148-acre lake has four miles of shoreline, much of which attracts anglers. For fisherman, the two most popular places to access the lake are at Cherokee Draw and Fisherman's Cove. From there, good fishing can be found around the inlet of the Big Thompson, along the rocky north shore, and along the rip-rap along US 36 on the lake's south shore. The first Saturday of June, during Colorado's free fishing weekend, sees the annual Lake Estes Fishing Derby, and the Colorado Division of Wildlife typically stocks thousands of 10-inch rainbow trout into the lake for the event and the kick-off of the summer season. Additionally, brown trout have established themselves in the lake, yellow perch were stocked surreptitiously, a program of stocking Photo by Walt Hester tiger muskies was attempted to control the perch, and carp and native white suck- The moon sets while boats at the Lake Estes Marina await another sum- ers are also present. Most mer day’s activities. Below, an angler gets a little closer to the trout. of the catch is rainbow trout, but you truly never know what you may hook. Lake Facts Olympus Dam cost $2.4 million to build. Construction began in 1947. The lake can hold up to 3,068 acre-feet of water, but is usually topped off just under 2,700 acre-feet. The lake has about four miles of shoreline and covers 185 acres when full. The lake rarely freezes over during the winter due to consistent wind action and the slightly warmer water discharged by the Estes Power Plant. Ice that does form does not last long, and the lake is not a good choice for icefishing.

26 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Blow off some steam! Take 100 deep breaths and whisk off to the Stanley Hotel Centennial Steam Car Tour June 14-19 By Juley Harvey ring your steam car (or enjoy the many gathered to toot and tour) and help celebrate the centennial of the venerable Stanley Hotel, the Stanley Mountain BWagon and the Stanley Museum’s 1909 Model R Stanley Steamer. Steam-y activities for everyone are planned everyday. Experience the major sites of Estes Park and the surrounding area as some of the early automobile adventurers did. Tours will include the Mountain Wagon routes F.O. Stanley used to bring his guests from Loveland and Lyons to Estes Park and routes around Rocky Mountain National Park. The headquarters will be at the Stanley Hotel, also a centenarian and a lovely dowa- ger in her famous sparkling white. A former Steam tourist said of his 2003 trip to Estes Park, “F.O. Stanley’s influence is everywhere…. Historic Steamers reached an altitude of more than two miles high crossing the Continental Divide in Rocky Mountain National Park and retraced the steps of the Stanley mountain wagons from the train stations at Lyons and Loveland to EstesA Park… Pe ranm experienceanen thatt V helpedaca tot iunderscoreon the reason F.O. Stanley fell in love with this place 100 years ago.” Tour Information Photo by Walt Hester Monday, June 15, the tour will follow the route that Stanley used to bring his visitors up from the Loveland train depot in the mountain wagons. Tuesday, the tour will include Beaver Meadows, the Rocky Mountain National Park and an historic drive overA Deer P Ridgeer Roadm anda inton eHorseshoent Park,V afollowedca byt ai barbequeon at the historic Fall River Hydroelectric Power Plant picnic grounds. This will include live music, by the Riverside Ramblers Dixieland Jazz Band, an Estes Park-based band. There will be tours of the historic hydroelectric power plant museum and activities for the children. In the evening, Jim Pickering will give a free talk on “F.O. Stanley: the Grand Old Man of Estes Park” at the Estes Park Museum. Wednesday will be the scenic tour on the Peak-to-Peak highway going to Lyons. Thursday’s tour will include a loop through Rocky Mountain National Park, lunch at the historic Baldpate Inn and a tour of their historic key room. This collection includes more than 20,000 keys. Visitors and guests have been contributing to the collection since WW I. Keys from Westminster Abby, Mozart’s wine cellar, the Pentagon and even Frankenstein’s castle adorn the key room. After lunch, there will be a drive on Tunnel Road to the Alva B. Adams Tunnel. This major engineering project brings water from the western slope to the eastern slope of Colorado. The tour will con- tinueA on to theP YMCAer mof the aRockiesne andn thet Lula V W.a Dorseyca Museum.tio Inn the late afternoon, a Steam Car lineup at See Blow off some steam !page 28 20-19025 A PPermanentermanent VVacationacation

“Call us!”

You love your vacations in Estes Park. Have you ever dreamed of owning your own cabin, second home, or vacation condo here? Something in the wide variety of properties here would fit your needs. There are cabins, homes and condominiums of all shapes and sizes, each as unique as you. Some investment properties have onsite property management to rent your vacation property when you are not using it. Call us! We’ll help you make that dream come true! 20-19009 TWO UNIQUE PERSONALITIES. ONE POWERFUL TEAM. Downtown, Next to the Lois Bailard GRI Doug Bailard GRI Historic Park Theatre, On the River Broker Associate Broker Associate Cell 970-227-0495 Rocky Mountain, REALTORS® Cell 970-231-5878 email—[email protected] www.LoisBailard.com Upper Stanley Village www.DougBailard.com [email protected] www.EstesParkMountainProperties.com [email protected] website—DeLeosDeli.com 970-577-1134 2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 27 Blow off some steam! Continued from page 27

the Visitors Center will be open to the public. Friday, there will be another short tour, visiting some of the historical sites around Estes Park. One of the highlights will be a demonstration of a 1901 Waterous horse-drawn steam pumper from the Reliance Fire Museum. • For tour information, contact: Linda Henry (tour coordinator) at (303) 443-8185, or e-mail [email protected]; Lynn Curry (tour consultant) at (712) 790-0607, or e-mail [email protected]; or Linda Elmarr (Stanley Museum Estes Park manager) at (970) 557-1903, or e-mail [email protected]. Estes Park was a prospering community in 1905, when the financial support of businessman F.O. Stanley laid the foundation for creating ongoing economic growth. Stanley had tuberculosis and in 1903 began spending his summers in Estes Park. In 1909, he opened the luxurious Stanley Hotel, and needed large vehicles to transport his guests and their luggage from the railheads at Loveland and Lyons to his new hotel 30 miles away. Stanley touring cars were far superior to internal combustion cars for this climb, but could not carry enough passengers and baggage. He and his brother built the first of their 9-passenger Mountain Wagons and shipped them to Colorado. So successful were they that resort hotels all over the country were placing orders. By 1912, a fourth seat had been added to the standard Mountain Wagons, and a few had 5 seats to carry 16 passengers. By 1908, production of Stanley Steamers had reached 800 for the year, and most of these were the “economy” Model EX, which seated from two to four passengers and sold for $850. Cars of this period (1910-1914) still had wood frames, full-elliptic springs front and rear, brass gas lamps, right-hand drive and were non-condensing. By the end of 1914, 8,000 Stanleys had been built.

The side porch and the front porch of the 100-year-old Stanley Hotel gleam in the sun shine.

Photos by Walt Hester

28 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition The hills are alive — with the sights of flowers By Juley Harvey late July finds the columbines appearing toward Chasm Lake, and at higher elevations by mid- n a riotous display, in June through August, wildflowers July and early August. wildly transform the Estes Park and Rocky Mountain land- Look for alpine tundra to be wearing its Iscapes from a carpet of muted earth tones to a plush mat of wildflower finery in July, for about six weeks. sunshine and aspen meadows. Alpine forget-me-nots start the root ball rolling, Up to 1,200 species of flowering plants create a dizzying in mid- to late June. By July, you will see moss display here for a limited engagement in summer, and the campion, alpine sandwort, alpine bistorts, wall- aspen provide golden globes of autumn leaves in early fall. The flowers, phlox, wild iris, alpine sunflower, pale- color almost makes one feel faint — or certainly pale by com- blue harebell, alpine sunflowers and alpine parison. avens. The appearance of the Arctic gentian, The Colorado Rockies are arguably the wildflower wonder- with its white, globular blooms and purple land of North America, and Rocky Mountain National Park is streaks, closes down the season. the region’s high-country garden showcase. From 6,000 to Special spots of color 9,000 feet, grow arnica, sego lilies, blue columbine and mead- Upper Hidden Valley in mid- to late July owrue in the pine and aspen forests. The July breezes blow in provides peeps of cow parsnip and larkspur. bushels of scarlet paintbrush, blue penstemmon, orange Also, see little pink elephants (flowers looking sneezeweed and purple fringed gentian. like they have a trunk and ears) on the west Elevations around Estes Park generally show pasque flowers side of the Park, below treeline near Poudre on south-facing hillsides about the first three weeks of April. Lake at the same time. Penstemmons pop up starting in June, along the roadsides. For the hardy, a 10-mile hike along the Columbines appear in late June through early August, depend- North Fork Trail in mid-July, starting in the ing on elevation (the higher the altitude, the later the bloom). Retreat in Glen Haven, offers views of a variety Trail Ridge Road is usually open by Memorial Day, but late Photo by Walt Hester of flowers, including pyrola, orchids, snows can delay the opening more than a week. Fall River columbines, larkspur and monkshood. Road opens at the same time or later, again depending on Mother Nature. Bear Lake to Fern Lake in mid- to late July also offers many bouquets (it is ille- Follow this guide to find fabulous flowers in the area. gal to pick any wildflower within the Park, though). Hiking in the area of Lawn May to June Lake at the end of July or beginning of August promises glimpses of Indian paint- Wildflowers begin to spring up in May in Moraine Park, with large fields of brush in a canvas of colors. blue irises and yellow goldenbanners. Mid- to late June brings showy orchids to Trio Falls tallies three different waterfalls and a splash of wildflowers in season. Wild Basin, Bear Lake and Onahu Trail on the west side of the Park. It’s Columbine time in July. Colorado’s state flower bursts onto the scene in the See The hills are alive page 30 early part of the month, in Wild Basin and along the Cow Creek Trail. Mid- to

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Lily Lake Enos Mills, the “father of Rocky Mountain National Park,” enjoyed walking to Lily Lake for the wildflowers, from his nearby cabin. The best times here may be the second through the third week of July. Dream and Emerald Lakes About 40 kinds of wildflowers greet visitors, including some spring bloomers that come out in summer where snow lingers late. The trail begins between the Bear Lake information booths and rises to Nymph Lake, and then Dream Lake. The last pitch to Emerald Lake provides views of marsh marigolds, globeflowers and pink bog laurel. Gem Lake Blooming here in July is an extraordinary saxifrage, called “telesonix.” This pink flower tucks itself into crevices in the mounded granite surrounding Gem Lake. Arrive early or wait until late in the afternoon — trailhead parking on Devil’s Gulch Road accom- modates about 20 vehicles. Tundra World/Toll Memorial Rocky Mountain National Park has been designated an International Biosphere Reserve. Famed Trail Ridge Road, the highest continuous highway in the nation, reaches to 12,183 feet. Six miles east of the Alpine Visitor Center, Tundra World Trail beckons and provides a window into an ecosystem equivalent to visiting the Arctic Circle. A mid-July visit is your best bet, since the growing season above treeline is abbreviated. Watch your step on the tundra — try to stay on the rocks. Some of the small, cushion plants are decades-old and a wrong step might kill them. To protect all vegetation, stay on trails anywhere in the Park. For more information about Park wildflowers, call (970) 586-1206.

Photos by Walt Hester Clockwise, photos show irises, columbine, sunflowers and water lilies.

30 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Serving the Estes Park Community for 40 Years Light and Heavy Duty • Tow Trucks • Trailer • Car Carriers Bob’sBob’s TowingTowing && RepairRepair

800 Dunraven Estes Park CO Estes Park’s Largest Auto Repair Facility 24-Hour Towing and Road Service Local and Long Distance • Passenger Cars Semis • Motor Homes • Motorcycles • Flat Tires Out of Gas • Jump Starts • Unlock Car Doors RADIO DISPATCHED- DAMAGE FREE (970) 586-3122 s r r TM Complete car care, lube-oil service, tire repairs 20-17062 ASE Certified Technicians Certified Drivers 24 Hour Emergency Road Service Estes Park’s One-Stop Place For: B&B Food Mart • Gas • Beer • Groceries • Sundries • Snacks • Newsstand South on Hwy 7 at Woodstock • Drinks • Deli Meals • Cigarettes • ATM • Gifts • Car Rental 586-5749 • Film • Videos What to do when it rains The Estes Park Aquatic Center is the place to be

our hike in the Park was cut short by an afternoon thunderstorm — Yby which you can almost set your watch in July and August — and you've come back to town and discovered what not to do when it rains and everyone's hike is cut short and they all head back to town. What next? You need a fun time while the sun doesn't shine. How about taking the kids to the pool? Photo by Walt Hester The Estes Park Aquatic Center, with The Estes Park Aquatic Center is the place to keep the fun going when it rains. natural lighting and massive wooden beams spanning the pool, was a pleas- wading pool, a six-lane 25-yard main bic workouts to exercises designed to also available. ant place to play or exercise before it pool, a diving well with a diving board for people with arthritis and related dis- The pool is also available for birth- underwent extensive renovations last and rope swing, and Nautilus equip- eases. day parties and can be rented for pri- year. Now, with a new deck, new locker ment. Admission to the pool is free for vate parties. rooms and other renovations, the two- The pool has open swimming and children two and younger, $4.25 for The Estes Park Aquatic Center is locat- decade-old natatorium is practically lap swimming hours, hosts swimming kids 3 to 17, $4.75 for adults, $4 for ed at 660 Community Drive. For more lessons for kids and adults, and also adults 55 and older, and $15 for a fam- new again. information, call 970-586-2340 or visit Facilities at the pool include a heated offers several fitness classes, including ily of four ($4 for each additional selections ranging from vigorous aero- child). Discounted punch passes are evrpd.com.

Rocky Ridge Music Center Music in the Mountains Faculty Concert Series - Summer 2009 465 Longs Peak Road, Estes Park, CO 80517 June 21 New and Used 3:00 p.m. July 5 Shumann and Schumann 3:00 p.m. July 12 Electric and Acoustic 3:00 p.m. July 19 Mostly Bach 3:00 p.m. July 26 Theatrical and Sublime 3:00 p.m. August 9 Higher Math 3:00 p.m. August 23 Solo 3:00 p.m. Rocky Ridge Music Center presents an eclectic mixture of chamber & solo works by classical masters Bach, Brahms, Chopin, Shumann, Ravel & new compositions by composer-in-residence David Ludwig & faculty member Philip Wharton. Buy Tickets Online or by Phone: $12 - $15 www.rockyridge.org (970) 586-4031 20-50106

32 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Because it’s there Rocky Mountain National Park is loaded with classic climbs for all seasons

t makes perfect sense. Consider, for instance, that Estes Park has one of the best youth climbing teams around. Who would be surprised to learn that Rocky IMountain National Park offers some of the best climbing on the continent? The Park has 113 named peaks rising over 10,000 feet, with 71 off those extend- ing above 12,00 feet. Climbers say that only the Grand Tetons come close to what is available along the Continental Divide in the Park, and the Park has its own version of El Capitan and Half Dome in the Diamond on Longs Peak's east face. The Park has been called “the ultimate vertical playground.” Part of what makes the Park a climbing playground is the variety. There is simply and endless array of things to climb and conditions under which to climb them. You have walk-ups like the route most people take to the top of Longs (not truly a climb, more of a long, hard hike), quality bouldering, some great ice climbs in the winter, some snow to contend with for most of the year, rock climbs, and any number of potential adventures that combine all of those aspects. Any discussion of climbing in the Park has to begin (but hardly end) with Longs Peak. It's the highest peak on the Front Range, and the 15th highest peak in the state. There is an easy route, the Keyhole route, (if you consider hiking on steep inclines almost three miles above sea level easy) that is considered non-technical for about six weeks each summer, from mid-July to the end of August. The smart thing to do if you wish to summit Longs is the get a start under the cover the darkness. Most who make the summit hit the trail by 4 a.m., with the goal being to get up and then start down before the daily late-summer thunderstorm hits. An early start is an essential part of any attempt on the 16-mile round trip that has 4,700 feet of elevation gain. But the real action is on the east face, where the massive rack face known as the Diamond is crisscrossed by well-known routes. The Diamond was closed to climbing until 1960, and it is not a place for inexperienced climbers. One of the most well-known routes on the Diamond is Kiener's, which has been called “possibly the best mountaineering route in the country.” Lumpy Ridge stands in contrast to Longs — you don't have to go to the ceiling

See CLIMBING: page 34

Climbers, right, ascend Mills Glacier on the way up Longs Peak. Below, the Twin Owls is an easily recognizable formation north of Estes Park on Lumpy Ridge. Photo by Walt Hester

2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 33 A hiker, left, gets ready for the ascent to Longs Peak under the cover of darkness, the way most trips to the top of Longs begins. Below, a view of the Diamond from Chasm Lake.

Photos by Walt Hester

Climbing Continued from page 33 of world to access great rock climbing. Running east and west just north of Estes Park and holding more than 30 south-facing domes and spires with more than 500 established routes, aficionados consider the ridge to have some of the best granite climbs in the area. From the tops of many of the climbs, you will have spectacular views of the towering mountains to the west and panoramic views of the Estes Valley. For a quality technical climb on Lumpy Ridge, seek out Mainliner on Sundance Buttress, a six-pitch route. Back into the true alpine country, Hallett Peak is one of the most identifiable peaks in the Park, topping off at 12,713 feet. Hallett is another peak that can be bagged without technical climbing, and can be climbed any time of the year. For gear-aided climbers, the Culp-Bossier route is the most popular, and was cited in the 1979 book “Fifty Classic Climbs of North America,” by Steve Roper and Allen Steck (as was the Diamond and the South Face of Petit Grepon). The Northcutt- Carter route is a more difficult route that offers some orienteering challenges as well. Speaking of Petit Grepon, John Bicknell of the Colorado Mountain School has called the South Face one of the best spire routes in the Park. The Spearhead (elev. 12,575 feet) is not the highest peak in the Park or even in its immediate vicinity in Glacier Gorge, but is one of the most highly regarded climbs, with both technical and non-technical routes. The Spearhead is not the only great destination in Glacier Gorge, as the upper end of the basin is ringed is surrounded by climbs: The Arrowhead, Pagoda Mountain, Chiefs Head, the Keyboard of the Winds, and McHenry's Peak. In the north end of the Park, the highest peak in the Mummy Range, Ypsilon Mountain (elev. 13,514 feet), is another attractive climb with options for both walk-ups and technical, gear-aided climbs. The walk-up is via the Southwest Ridge that takes one from Chapin Pass, across the alpine tundra and to the summit. Like most peaks in the Park, Ypsilon is doable in the winter but sees the vast majority of its traffic during the summer months. Two trailheads provide the best access to the mountain, the Lawn Lake Trailhead in Horseshoe Park and the Chapin Pass Trailhead off Fall River Road. While most of the casual climbing gets done during the summer, the mountaineering continues right through winter, when hard-core types combine climbing and skiing. The Park in the winter is a special place, often far quieter and with a greater feeling of isolation than one may get on a busy route at the peak of the summer months. For ice climbing, The Notch, on Longs Peak, is considered one of the best in the Park, though good timing for good conditions is important. Late fall is considered the best time. The climb takes one up the lower east face of Longs, and up Alexander's Chimney to The Notch — 2,000 vertical feet of climbing. For climbers in the Park, there's no paperwork or bureaucracy to deal with for a day climb, and most of the Park's climbs can be done in a day. Overnight climbing trips, like all overnight stays in the Park, do require permits. 34 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Collection le Plume rles Eag 75, Cha irca 18 Shirt, c Lakota

(it(it iiss bbeautiful)eautiful)

This is a place unlike any other, just ask anyone who has ever been here. A place with walls that whisper, floors that creak underfoot, a place with a rare history, a patina left by time and an endless parade of characters…

Adapted from a Vacation Edition story by Valerie Pehrson

The sky was heavy with impending snow and Eagle Plume’s was warm and Charles Eagle Plume, welcoming. 1939 There was the smell of a fire in the grate, and lunch cooking. Ann Strange Owl, her husband Dayton Raben, their daughter Nico Strange Owl, and Nico’s son, Dah’som are all fixtures in the shop. Creaking floorboards added to the rustic atmosphere as Ann and Nico explained how they came to the area, and how they came to be the caretakers and owners of this unique and historical shop. “Ann is from Montana originally, our reservation is in Southwest Montana, and Dayton, is from Wyoming. They married in the late 50s in Wyoming when interracial marriages were still illegal,” said Nico. “Shortly after that they moved to California where there was more tolerance at the time. After I was born, they moved to Colorado to be closer to family again.” She continues, “Ann eventually became lonesome for her family and culture, and someone suggested that we visit an Indian man by the name of Charles Eagle Plume. That was in the 60s. We became fast friends with Charles, and like so many families, fell in love with the Estes area.”. She carries on, “Charles had always wanted my mother to help him at the shop, and she finally did take him up on that. Eventually Dayton was coaxed into helping out, then I finally came to work here in the summers while at CSU.” “I had a shop of my own in Ft Collins then, and he would come have coffee with me and we would visit, since he closed the shop in the wintertime,” interjected Strange Owl. The two women fall into reminisces of Charles Eagle Plume, telling stories about how he loved to tell stories. One in particular brings laughter bubbling continued on next page. Ann Strange Owl and Dayton Raben

up between the two of them, the question of Charles’s age. “He always claimed to be 105, right mom?” Asked Nico. Ann nodded with a slow smile spreading across her face as she stirred a pot of stew. Nico continued. “Every spring we would have to figure out how many years ago he would have to have been born to be 105 Eagle Plume’s that year.” Circa 1934 “I remember he always had a note behind the desk,” added Ann. “A cheat sheet.” Ann and Charles mutually adopted each other after years of fielding questions about whether they were related. “People would ask if he was my father and I always had this long story to tell them, or people would ask him if I was his daughter,” explained Ann. “One afternoon he said, ‘just tell them we are father and daughter.’ And things changed after that. People would come and say ‘how is your father,’ or ‘where is your daughter?’” Family isn’t always about who you are born to, and Nico echoed that sentiment. “He took care of us like family. He was really generous with all of us, and we took care of him as he got older, too.” “He was a nice person,” agreed Ann. “He was so good to all the people here. We still miss him a lot.” Blue jays and chickadees hopped around the feeder while the women prepared lunch. Estes Park has thousands of items that are Native American themed, but not necessarily made by Native Americans themselves, and supporting indigenous artists is important to the family, obviously. “We belong to the Indian Arts and Crafts Association, or IACA,” explained Nico. “And they are part of this whole movement to police that kind of thing. They work to enforce laws that aim to stop people from marketing things as being Native American made when they really aren’t. That’s why we try to work with the artists directly when we can, otherwise it is taking money out of Indian artist’s pockets and that’s just not right.” The family has had some experience in this particular area, when several years ago someone tried to sell them some questionable merchandise. “We were looking at beadwork that a fellow we had known for Charles Eagle Plume many years was showing us,” said Nico. “It looked kind of funny, it with young visitors was sewn with fishing line instead of thread and the way that the beads were laid down just wasn’t quite right.” “So we started looking in to it, and we discovered this man had gotten these things from another dealer who was outsourcing to China. They were marketing it as Native American made, and selling it dirt-cheap. The bizarre thing was, he was claiming that the beadworker that made these pieces was my aunt. He was just using her name because she had worked for him 20 or 30 years earlier. He had started out working with Indian people and then found a cheaper way to make money.” The wind picked up, the snow started blowing in, and we sat down to Eagle Plume’s Today lunch. Nico Strange Owl Charles Eagle Plume Charles Eagle Plume claimed to have been born on the Montana- Canadian border. He was Blackfeet Indian, French and German, and grew up in poverty. Because he was a storyteller, the time frame in which he came to Colorado is shrouded in mystery. While studying English at CU he met Katherine Lindsay, proprietress of the Whatnot Inn and he began working for her in the 1930s. Katherine eventually married and changed the focus of the business to Indian arts and crafts, renaming it Perkins Trading Post. When times were slow, Charles, who was known to dress in full regalia and with bow and Ann Strange Owl arrow in hand, would ambush carloads of tourists on the road and sell them moccasins or point them towards the trading post. Over the decades Katherine and Charles collected historic and prehistoric Indian artifacts, many of which still remain at the Eagle Plume’s. Over one thousand of these treasures adorn their beloved trading post today, comprising the Charles Eagle Plume Collection. Bead and quillwork from the Plains, ceramics and kachina dolls from the Southwest, and many fine baskets beckon the eye throughout the post. When Katherine died, Eagle Plume took over the shop. To get through the winter season, he would travel the country as a paid lecturer at supper clubs and other venues speaking about the benefits of a college education and civil rights for all people. In the 1980s some young Lakota men robbed the Eagle Plume shop. They were prosecuted and convicted in Boulder County, and Eagle Plume offered to pay for the young men to go to college when they got out of prison. None of them took him up on the offer. In the late 1980s he received an honorary doctorate from his alma mater for his lifetime achievements of championing civil rights and awareness and advocacy for the Native American. Eagle Plume loved children, and very young visitors to his shop would receive a feather from him as a present. He would say that there was a method to his madness, as young children want to touch everything. With feather in hand, they would gently dust everything in sight! Children who were a little older would be offered a trade. Eagle Plume would hold out an arrowhead, and offer to trade the young person for the most valuable thing they possessed. The children would offer their mothers or diamonds, but Eagle Plume would correct them, saying that their friendship was the most valuable thing they possessed. Although this dynamic man is no longer at the trading post, he remains so in spirit. His collection of arrowheads and feathers remain at his desk amid cigarette burns and old “cheat sheets”, where they are still gifted to children that wander in the door, wide-eyed at all there is to see at Eagle Plume’s Trading Post. (they(they areare married)married)

A few years back, I was asked to travel to Utah for an appraisal. I had no idea that the journey would bring me back to my ancestors. When I arrived, I was astounded to see a number of historic Cheyenne pieces waiting for my appraisal. Everything was so familiar - the beadwork designs in rich reds and blues meant for men and women’s clothing, and even old beadwork designs meant to influence the fate of Cheyenne infants. To touch these items was to touch my relatives lost long ago. After learning from the man who had hired me that these Plains ledger drawings are read from right to left beginning at the pieces were originally collected by his great-great grandfather, Captain lower right corner. White Bird’s drawing includes all the tradi- John Robert Livermore, an Army officer assigned to Fort Keogh, Montana, I tional elements of a Cheyenne courtship and wedding. Stop by was thunderstruck. I knew from the stories I had been told by my parents the trading post sometime – we’d love to have you see the drawing and grandparents, that this is where my ancestors had been held prior to and tell you the story of Red Paint Woman’s courtship and mar- being moved to our present day reservation in southeastern Montana. Was riage. it possible that one of my grandmothers had sewn these beads down onto this buckskin I held in my hand? the ledger drawing was Ann’s great grandmother, Red Paint Woman. With this solemn knowledge, I began to examine and photograph the My mother always told me the story of Red Paint Woman as she items that lay in front of me. As I handled each piece, I wondered helped me into my buckskin dress or braided my hair. It was during about the woman that lovingly made it, what man had worn it with these times she would paint a red circle on my cheek, reminding me pride into battle, or whose baby had slept peacefully in the cradleboard that we paint this circle to honor one of our highly respected under a cottonwood tree while his mother picked rosehips. grandmothers – Red Paint Woman. Then she would go on to remind After I had finished examining the beadwork, my client brought my me of what it takes to be respected as a Cheyenne woman. attention to a large ledger style drawing on muslin cloth that he had Red Paint Woman was born with a perfectly round strawberry retrieved from another room. While I began work on the ledger birthmark on her cheek. Cheyenne people always admired her perfect drawing, he explained that Captain Livermore commissioned the red paint – the birthmark. Years ago my grandmother, Grace Strange painting from a Cheyenne man by the name of White Bird. Livermore Owl, told my mother this same story as she helped my mother into her had White Bird make enough muslin drawings to cover the walls of his buckskin dress, braided her hair, and painted that round mark on her small cabin at Fort Keogh to prevent the log chinking from falling onto cheek in honor of Red Paint Woman. the floors. My client brought out photos of Captain Livermore standing As we all looked at the ledger painting again, we saw that the young near his cabin at the fort, interior photos of the cabin where White bride had a round red mark on her cheek. Bird’s paintings hung, and his military orders dating to 1865. The past Heirlooms for Sale had come alive. In our travels and dealings, my family has seen many historic White Bird Cheyenne objects, from Dull Knife’s clothing on display, to a pair of An article from the Denver Times, January 19th 1913, describes three woman’s moccasins taken from a grave, to remarkably old cradleboards of White Bird’s paintings that were to be featured in and “Indian housed in a European museum. Among the Cheyenne, items of this Pageant” in Denver. According to the article, White Bird was sixteen at sort were either gifted, traded, or sold, but were more often buried with the time of the Battle of the Little Bighorn and had a clear memory of the person that owned them. For these reasons, many Northern Plains the battle and the strategies used by the Indian forces that day. Having Indians do not possess family heirlooms in the usual sense. graduated from West Point, and presumably having a keen interest in Charles Eagle Plume, Ann’s adopted father, gifted to her a fully the battle, Livermore commissioned White Bird to draw a panorama of beaded Southern Cheyenne woman’s outfit. It is one of Ann’s prized the entire battle. This piece was shown at the pageant and eventually possessions. We proudly display it here at the shop and love to visit donated to the museum at West Point in 1958. The Denver Art Museum with people about it. also has a number of muslin paintings by White Bird donated by On one occasion before this, we were able to identify a Southern Livermore’s descendants. Cheyenne beaded blanket strip that had belonged to one of Ann’s great White Bird can be seen in the center of the top section of the ledger uncles. We asked to purchase it, but sadly it was not for sale. drawing, next to the married couple, wearing a hat. His name is also So, after we realized that the woman in this ledger drawing was the listed in the ledger roll of Cheyenne transferred to the Tongue River grandmother we still honor, I called my client with the news and with Agency (our present day reservation) from Fort Keogh, Montana as an offer of purchase that he accepted. After making our last payment “Who-pah-vi-kiss - White Bird - Husband, age 35”. to him, the ledger drawing of Red Paint Woman’s wedding ceremony Red Paint Woman was ours to share. When I arrived back to Eagle Plume’s from Utah, I began in earnest my research into the Cheyenne beadwork and ledger drawing. I had permission from my client to share photos of the ledger drawing with my parents to gain their insight. Dayton, of course, immediately began deciphering and “reading” the ledger drawing, eager to understand its meaning. When my mother first saw the drawing, she was very quiet, looking at it carefully for a long time before finally saying, “hmm, I wonder…”. “What?” Dayton and I both asked her at the same time. Ann said, “Well, I’m not sure. But remember, Nico, how we paint our cheek before we dance?” slowly making a circle on her cheek with her index finger, realization dawning. At that moment we all grasped that the woman in Meet the birdies — flock to the flockers Compiled by Juley Harvey • Dark-eyed junco — is mostly gray, with black-and-white accents. f you’re looking for some fine-feathered friends, the Estes Park/Rocky Year-round residents of the Park, they Mountain National Park area has a flock of them, providing fascinating watch- eat seeds and berries. Iing. • Golden eagle — These large Since the designation of Rocky Mountain National Park in 1915, there have birds, with wingspans of more than been 280 species of birds reported for this area, including the Park, Arapaho six feet, are dark brown and black, National Recreation Area and the towns of Estes Park and Granby. So, if you want with a light-gold color on the backs to see our feathered friends, you’ve flocked to the right place. According to of their necks. Audubon Magazine, Estes Park is a “birder’s paradise.” National Geographic says, • Great horned owls — Year-round “There could hardly be a more beautiful spot to see high-country birds than Rocky residents, they establish territories and Mountain National Park.” court during January and February. In 2000, Rocky Mountain National Park was designated as a Global Important Young are produced in March. Bird Area. This designation recognizes the vital role of the Park in the perpetuation • Jays —Jays are among the noisi- of bird species. The Estes Valley and Rocky Mountain National Park offer the est of birds in the forest. Stellar’s jays opportunity to view hundreds of species of birds, ranging from wetland waterfowl are bright blue on their lower half to soaring raptors. and black on top, with a prominent You might find the following flighty fauna zipping about the woods or singing a crest on the tops of their heads. Gray happy song during your visit here. jays are mostly gray, with white • American dipper — Also called “water ouzel,” these year-round Park residents accents. are seen along streams. In shallow water, they appear to water-ski on the surface, • Mallard —These large ducks like but in deeper water they dive in and run along the bottom underwater. Watch for to paddle about on Lake Estes, these birds along Ouzel Falls Trail and at the falls, where they dart in and out of Sprague Lake and other nearby water the tumbling waterfall. bodies. Males have an almost irides- Photos by Walt Hester • Broad-tailed hummingbird — These jewel-like little birds hover at flowers to cent green head. sip nectar, perform aerial mating dances or tail-fan to warn other hummingbirds • Mountain bluebird — arrives early, usually in March. Males have bright-blue away. The most common of hummingbird species seen in the Park, the broad- backs and tail feathers and lighter blue chests; females are a duller gray-blue. tailed hummer is a summer resident. • Mountain chickadee — small — about 5 inches long, with pale-gray backs, • Clark’s nutcracker — Often seen along Trail Ridge Road and in the Bear Lake jet-black caps and eye bands, and white cheeks, eyebrows and chests. area, this year-round Park resident is about a foot long, with a long, light-gray • Northern flicker —These large woodpeckers are mostly brownish gray with a hood, a white face, a pointed black bill and black wings. red band across the tips of their tail feathers. Males have a red strip on their lower face. • Peregrine falcon — One of the world’s fastest birds, they are capable of diving at speeds of more than 125 mph. The Park closes several rock-climbing areas to humans during the raptors’ nesting periods. From early March until the mid-sum-

mer, raptors nest in areas of Lumpy Ridge and Sheep Mountain. • Red-tailed hawk — A common sight, gliding over open areas in search of prey. Named for their rust-colored tails, they are stocky, with wingspans of about four feet. • Violet-green swallow — Flocks of swallows soar here from spring through fall. Known for their superb flying grace, violet-green swallows have striking metallic green backs and bright-violet tails. • Warbling vireo — With a slow song that ends on a rising note, the warbling vireo is often heard rather than seen. About five to six inches long and grayish green above and light gray or white below, with white eyebrows, these birds fre- quent aspen forests and trees along streams in summer. • White-tailed ptarmigan — A year-round resident, the ptarmigan likes higher elevations, about 11,000 feet. During summer, this bird, measuring about a foot long, is mostly mottled brown, with white wings, chest, and tail, but during winter, it turns pure white. Favorite spots for bird-watching are Endovalley, Moraine Park, Wild Basin, Trail Ridge Road, Upper Beaver Meadows, Lumpy Ridge, Cow Creek and Bear Lake Road. In Estes Park, walk or ride the Lake Estes pathway along the Big Thompson River and through the lakeside bird sanctuary. Spring bird migration is a particularly popular time to come. Clockwise from above are the Steller’s jay, Canadian geese and the bald eagle.

2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 39 Butterflies are free for the seeing in Rocky Mountain National Park

Compiled by Juley Harvey Pahaska Skipper Sachem and Jan Kilgore Oslar’s Roadside-Skipper ocky Mountain National Rocky Mountain Parnassian Park protects some of Swallowtails (several kinds) Colorado’s highest moun- Whites (several kinds) R Cabbage tains and most biologically rich mountain forest, meadow and tun- Margined dra habitats in its more than one- Large Marble quarter-million acres. Butterflies Olympia Marble flutter here, among the pollinating Southern Rocky Mountain insects found in late June and on Orange-tip sunny days, feeding from the many Sulphurs (several kinds) wildflowers, creating a moving Southern Dogface stained-glass-window effect. More Mexican yellow than 100 species of butterflies have Sleepy Orange been observed in Rocky Mountain Dainty Sulphur National Park. You don’t need a Purplish Copper net; they’re all around. Lustrous Copper The Rocky Mountain Butterfly Blue Copper project, aided by volunteers and Hairstreak (many kinds) field assistants, has monitored but- Elfins (several kinds) terfly populations on a weekly Blues (many kinds) basis along transects in various Fritillary (many kinds) Park habitats and has identified Checkerspot (many kinds) 125 butterfly species in the Park. Crescents (several kinds) Biologists believe that trends in Commas (several kinds) butterfly populations may provide Mourning Cloak early warning of the impacts of global although there are other opportunities willow wetlands. Milbert’s Tortoiseshell warming on the Park’s flora and fauna. for volunteering while you visit. It takes Butterflies that might fly by in the Red Admiral The Rocky Mountain National Park approximately four months to learn the park include: Painted Lady Butterfly Project is a biodiversity study scientific names of the butterflies, the Indra Swallowtail West Coast Lady designed to provide a baseline of data protocol for surveying routes and how Cloudless Sulphur American Lady on butterflies. Butterflies are highly vis- to identify the butterflies in the field. Lilac-edged Copper Common Buckeye ible, as well as sensitive to ecological To learn more about butterflies, visi- Edith’s Copper Weidemeyer’s Admiral changes throughout all stages of their tors may contact the Rocky Mountain Bronze Copper Common Ringlet life cycle, from egg, caterpillar and Nature Association regarding seminars Striped Hairstreak Common Wood-Nymph chrysalis to adult. scheduled each summer. For informa- Sylvan Hairstreak Small Wood-Nymph The project began in 1996 and will tion on their seminars, see the Web site Great-spangled Fritillary Canyonland Satyr continue through 2011, providing a 15- at www.rmna.org or call (970) 586- Hydaspe Fritillary Riding’s Satyr year study and database of all the infor- 3262. Sagebrush Checkerspot Common Alpine mation collected on the butterflies, Butterflies can be seen anywhere Edith’s Checkerspot Magdalena Alpine when they visit the Park and weather there are flowering plants, especially in Compton Tortoiseshell Callias Alpine and environmental conditions during meadows and near streams. The book, Viceroy Chryxus Arctic the time the route is surveyed. The but- “Butterflies of Rocky Mountain Theano Alpine Melissa Arctic terfly routes are surveyed from May 1 National Park,” by Leslie Angels, sug- Uhler’s Arctic Monarch to September 17 each year. gests walks and spots to view them. Jutta Arctic Mexican Cloudywing Of the 140 butterfly species identi- Stroll through Beaver Meadows and Northern Cloudywing Duskywing (many kinds) fied in the Park, approximately 100 along Cow Creek, where sparkling Martial Duskywing Skippers (many kinds). species are seen each year. The butter- streams course through open wildflower Afranius Duskywing flies are here as adults from mid-April meadows and aspen woodlands and Common Sootywing Courtesy photos through mid-October, depending on look for two-tailed swallowtail butter- the weather conditions during that year. flies flying over Nelson’s larkspur, Some butterflies migrate through the miner’s candle, Colorado columbine, area, such as the monarch and the and shooting star. painted lady. Others, like the mourning Follow Black Canyon trails through cloak overwinter as adults and hiber- sagebrush and Ponderosa pine habitats nate in logs or other protected areas. to encounter Alexandra’s sulphur but- Some butterflies have two or three life terflies, among the wildflower displays cycles during the summer, others have featuring puccoon, blanket flower, just one. Depending on the species, waxflower and Indian paintbrush. butterflies can live for a few weeks or a Along the Fern Lake trail, which fol- few months as adults. As larva, butter- lows the churning Thompson River, is a flies eat plant vegetation (leaves, grasses, place to search for the showy pine and juniper trees). As adults, they Weidemeyer’s admiral butterfly. eat the nectar of flowers. Some are very Common alpine butterflies may fly the specific as to the nectar of which flow- high ways on the Continental Divide, ers they will eat, others will eat from near the Shadow Mountain Dam area, the nectar of a variety of flowering which supports an upper montane/sub- plants. alpine plant community and a riparian This project is not open to visitors to zone along the Colorado River, includ- the Park who would like to volunteer, ing chiming bells, jacob’s ladder and

40 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition

Historic Fall River Hydroplant Powering Estes through the early 20th Century

By Janice Mason Historic details provided by the Estes Park Museum Editor’s note: This is a compilation of a two-part series, titled “Powering Estes,” which appeared in the Wednesday, June 4 and Friday, June 6, 2008 editions of the Trail-Gazette. he electricity that powered early Estes Park started small but the Thunger for that power grew with the ever-growing population of its residents and visitors. Starting with hydropower generated from high mountain waters flowing down the Fall River, Estes Park would become an innovative leader in public electricity during the early 20th Century. This evolution of power would begin with the arrival of Freelan Oscar (F.O.) Stanley in 1903. Stanley, famous inven- Photos by Walt Hester tor and hotelier, arrived in Estes Park when was 54-years-old suffering from Middle, top to bottom: The Historic tuberculosis. Stanley’s doctors had rec- Fall River Hydroplant was restored ommended the dry, Rocky Mountain to museum standards and dedicat- air to cure his ailment. After three ed on the 20th anniversary of the months in Estes Park, Stanley regained Lawn Lake Flood on July 15, 2002. his health and he and his wife, Flora, The Western Electric generator was fell in love with the town. installed in 1909. Gadgets fill one When he decided to build the complete side of the wall of the first Stanley Hotel, he was determined to room of the museum. make it the first all-electric hotel in the The original hydroplant consisted of country. Initially, this was the reason for only one of the three rooms that make building the Hydroplant, however Estes up the plant today. The first phase of Park residents would soon also benefit the plant housed the Hug water wheel from Stanley’s vision. and a 200-kilowatt Western Electric In 1903, the year-round population generator. The flow of the Fall River of Estes Park was only 55, with 655 never produced adequate power so it summer guests arriving to inhabit the was apparent that the 1909 hydro unit eight hotels and cabins. F.O. immedi- would not keep up with increasing ately envisioned the possibilities for the demand. By 1912, there were 45 cus- region and planned to build a grand tomers in addition to the electricity hotel. needs of the hotel. So Stanley built a F.O. and his brother, F.E., had coal powered steam plant in 1913 to become wealthy for creating dry-plate heat the Stanley Hotel and free up camera film and selling the invention to more electricity for sale — “selling elec- the George Eastman Company in tricity one light bulb at a time,” said 1904. Also the inventor of one of the Kate Rusch, Education Curator for the first vehicles of its day, “the Stanley Estes Park Museum. Steamer,” F.O. knew how he would By the summer of 1912, Stanley had transport his guests to the area. Along 45 customers and more and more resi- with building the Stanley Hotel proper- dents arrived, again increasing the ty, he created a bus company for his 12- demand. And then came the publica- passenger mountain wagons. In years to tion of the book, “The Story of Estes follow, he rebuilt the roads, developed a Park,” written by the father of Rocky transportation franchise, established a Mountain National Park, Enos Mills. bank and supported the establishment “...with the finest of water piped of the area’s main attraction — Rocky from near snow line,” wrote Mills, Mountain National Park. “...there is probably no other incorpo- F.O. began construction on the rated village in all the United States so Stanley Hotel in 1907 with the well equipped to supply all the wants of unyielding idea to also supply power to residents and visitors as in Estes Park.” the resort upon its completion. He By 1920, 100 new customers were chose a plot on an 80-acre site on the added, and between 1920 and 1922 an Fall River, about three miles northwest additional 50 began to put a strain on of town, and broke ground on Stanley the 200-kilowatt Western Electric gen- Power Plant on Oct. 9, 1908. The erator. hydroplant was finished in 1909 and With the increasing demand for ready to generate electricity to the Stanley Hotel. See Hydroplant: page 43 42 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Hydroplant: Lawn Lake Flood strikes Continued from page 42 power to Estes Park residents and visitors, the hydroplant expanded as plant technology also advanced. In 1922, the 680-kilowatt Worthington Turbine was installed. At 77, F.O. turned the respon- sibility of the plant over to the Stanley Power Company. After nearly building the town of Estes Park, F.O. had established the area as a major tourist destination. By 1927, the population had grown to 1,000, with a summer population of 150,000. The hydroplant also grew in 1930 with the installation of the Fairbanks-Morse Diesel engine, designed to han- dle low water flow, turning 1,400 revolutions per minute. “Eventually they had a six-cylinder diesel engine,” said Rusch. “It was apparently so loud you could hear it all the way downtown . . . that was torn out during the Second World War because they needed scrap steel.” Photos by Walt Hester The Town of Estes Park acquired the hydroplant Above: The 680-kilowatt Worthington Turbine from the Public Service Company in 1945. was installed in 1922. Right: The Fairbanks-Morse From 1940 to 1951, the population of Estes Park Diesel engine was installed in 1930. had increased 65 percent. By 1950, customers also relied on power from a federal hydroplant in The Lawn Lake Dam, only accessible by a six-mile Wyoming. In 1976, the Town of Estes Park joined the uphill hike, broke at 5:30 a.m. sending 674 acre-feet Platte River Power Authority — the current provider of water down the Roaring River. Next in line, the —serving Estes Park, Longmont, Loveland and Fort dam at Cascade Lake, built by F.O. Stanley, was soon Collins. The hydroplant continued to generate clean, topped. Water rushed down the Fall River at 18,000 inexpensive power to the Town of Estes Park until a per cubic feet per second picking up debris and Plant, built by F.O. in 1909 to supply electricity to great disaster would change everything. momentum heading swiftly toward the hydroplant. the Stanley Hotel, had been continuously maintained “There was enough warning for the plant manager and utilized until that morning of July 15, 1982. The The Lawn Lake flood and his granddaughter to evacuate,” said Rusch, “but old machinery chugged on, fulfilling a portion of the It was a bright sunny day, but a flood was coming [three] people lost their lives at the Aspen Glen electricity needs for the town of Estes Park. to the Estes Valley on July 15, 1982. Unsuspecting Campground and the Lawn Lake Trail.” In three Lawn Lake was a natural lake that covered 16.4 campers and hikers below had no idea that high in hours and 40 minutes, the Lawn Lake Flood of 1982 acres. The lake was later manually increased to 48 sur- Rocky Mountain National Park, at 11,000 feet, the wiped out the Fall River Hydroplant, now restored as face acres with a depth of 35 feet, used to irrigate Lawn Lake Dam was failing. a museum west of Estes Park. The Stanley Power See History: page 44 c e JACKSON STABLES, Inc. YMCA of The Rockies Livery Allen & Julie Jackson Open to the Public P.O. 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20-16511 20-18931 2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 43 History: preserved and protected Continued from page 43 crops and feed the waters serving the and dedicated on the 20th anniversary of the hydroplant. However, maintenance to the Lawn Lake Flood on July 15, 2002. Great Lawn Lake dam was neglected over the years detail was taken to restore the hydroplant — due to its inaccessibility. now an interpretive museum — down to its The morning of the flood, hikers reported a exterior bright yellow paint, which was once wall of water 25- to 30- feet high coming from the color of the Stanley Hotel as well. the valley above them. The devastation can still Now on the National Register of Historic be been seen at the Alluvial Fan in Horseshoe Places, visitors wander to the end of Fish Park — a popular destination in Rocky Hatchery Road to view F.O. Stanley’s legacy of Mountain National Park. building the first all-electric hotel in the coun- By the time the floodwaters reached the try was not only fulfilled in 1909, but the hydroplant, boulders and trees came with it, hydroplant provided clean hydropower to Estes hitting the structure, demolishing the machin- Park for 72 years to follow. ery and carrying debris down the Fall River. The Historic Fall River Hydroplant features The walls of the hydroplant show the water the original equipment installed by Stanley in line from the flood and mud on machine gad- 1909, machinery from an addition in 1921 gets record the historic disaster. The clock on and a diesel unit installed by Public Service in the wall behind Stanley’s original 1908 hydro 1938. In addition to the equipment, there are unit shows the last minute the plant operated. panels that document the story of the plant, Photos by Walt Hester The devastation was so complete, the restora- the growth of Estes Park, its insatiable need for tion as a working hydroplant proved impossi- electricity and the Lawn Lake Flood of 1982. Above: Behind the museum, a bridge leads across the ble. Following the flood, national park and The picturesque grounds surrounding the Fall River to a picnic area that is rented to business and conservation groups opposed the reconstruc- Historic Fall River Hydroplant are aesthetically community groups.Below: Welcome Center at the tion of the Cascade Lake dam; citing low Fall enhanced by the river and a bridge leading to a Historic Fall River Hydroplant. River water levels would harm plant and aquat- picnic area that is rented to business and com- ic life in the river. munity groups. All buildings on the property With the Lawn Lake flood costing $31 mil- and machinery have been restored, ready for lion in public and private damages, and with visitors to explore the history of electricity that cleanup and economic loss, the restoration of once powered the Town of Estes Park. the hydroplant to working standards was Estes Park Museum staff operate the doubtful. Historic Fall River Hydroplant, located three In 1997, the Town of Estes Park and Rocky miles northwest of downtown Estes Park, off of Mountain National Park officials reached a Route 34. To get there, take Route 34 towards compromise with the utility provider that in the Fall River entrance to Rocky Mountain exchange for 500,000 kilowatts of power, the National Park. About two miles from the junc- Town would not rebuild the plant to working tion of the 34 Bypass and 34 commercial standards. The Town agreed never to operate a (Elkhorn Avenue), make a left on Fish hydroplant on the Fall River again. The plant Hatchery Road. Follow Fish Hatchery Road to and ecosystem restored, the water now flows the end, about one mile, to the Historic Fall down the Fall River past the hydroplant, which River Hydroplant. Summer hours (Memorial is carefully maintained by Estes Park Museum Day through Labor Day) are Tuesday through staff and volunteers. The Colorado Historical Sunday, from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Admission is Society provided State Historical Fund money free. Winter tours are available by appointment to restore the Fall River Hydroplant in 1998, for a small fee, by calling 577-3762. For more bringing it back to its 1940s appearance. The information, call the Estes Park Museum at hydroplant was restored to museum standards 586-6256 or visit www.estes.org/hydroplant.

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44 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Estes Park Museum Keeping track of local history since 1962

Compiled by Janice Mason and The museum offers some 75 educa- Kate Rusch, education coordinator, tional programs and tours each year for Estes Park Museum kids and adults. For a current list of he Estes Park Museum offers programs, visit www.estes.org/museum. exhibits, programs and tours cel- Private tours of the Museum Gallery ebrating local history. Tracks in are available for a small fee. Call 577- T 3762 for more information. Time, the permanent exhibit, features the history of the Estes valley from the The Estes Park Museum collects, Ice Age to the present and highlights interprets and preserves local history, the Native Americans, explorers, pio- and presents exhibits, programs and neers, mountaineers and entrepreneurs events, for the education and benefit of that shaped the history of Estes Park residents and visitors of all ages. The and Rocky Mountain National Park. museum is located at 200 Fourth St. The museum houses and preserves and admission is free. Around 23,000 artifacts, including a The museum is open Monday 1909 Stanley Steamer, documents, through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 Photos courtesy Estes Park Museum manuscripts, maps, textiles, original art, p.m. and Sundays from 1 to 5 p.m., The museum is located at 200 photographs, prints and books. The May through October. November Fourth St. and admission is free. collection represents much of the fasci- through April, hours are Fridays and Right: The 1909 Stanley Steamer is nating history of the Estes Park area. Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and on display inside the museum, Explore temporary exhibits in the Sundays from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. For along with 23,000 other artifacts. National Park Service building that more information, call 586-6256 or visit www.estes.org/museum. served as Rocky Mountain National to provide electricity to his famous Park’s first headquarters. See the historic The Estes Park Museum staff also operate the Historic Fall River hotel by the power of Fall River. 1910 Cobb-Macdonald log cabin, also Admission is free. For more informa- located on the museum grounds. Hydroplant, open Memorial Day through Labor Day, Tuesday through tion, call 586-6256 or visit Browse the Estes Park Museum Shop www.estes.org/hydroplant. and pick up a schedule of free educa- Sunday from 1 to 4 p.m. Visitors are sure to enjoy the fascinating story of Private tours of the Hydroplant are tional programs and historic tours. available for a small fee. Call 577-3762 There is something for everyone. the first electric plant in Estes Park, built by Hotelier F.O. Stanley in 1907 for information.

“Estes Park’s Creative Eatery” OVER 20-50010 BREAKFAST & LUNCH Daily Specials & Vegetarian Menu GET OFF THE BEATEN PATH AND on All Meals REALLY SEE THE ROCKIES! Our all wheel drive vehicles will take you where your car can’t go - HOMEMADE where nature remains untouched. Elk meadows, virgin forest, DESSERTS abundant wildflowers, wildlife and the majestic Rockies! DAILY TOURS — 9:30 AM & SOUPS and 2 PM. Beer, Wine, EVENING TOURS — 6 PM. Mixed Drinks Monday, Wednesday, Friday Charbroiled dinners with Patio Dining all the fixins’, entertainment & campfire sing-a-long. Specialized Catering With a Flair Reservations required. PRIVATE TOURS — Banquet Room Available Family Reunions, Company Picnics, Weddings, etc. PRIVATE HUMMER TOURS AVAILABLE 970-586-2766970-586-2766 DEPARTS FROM 875 MORAINE Open: 6:30 AM Closed Wed. American Since 1955 200 MORAINE AVENUE WILDERNESS TOURS www.estesparkmollyb.com 586-1626 • 586-4237 ESTES PARK American Wilderness Tours operates under a special-use permit from the Roosevelt National Forest, USDA Forest Service. Summers only.

2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 45 Shuttling Around Town Free Shopper Shuttle Takes The Sting Out of Summer Traffic

ith the addition of service on Fall River Road, all three Wmajor highway corridors will see free visitor shuttle operations this summer. June 27 has been set as the first day of operations throughout the area. Daily operations continue on the Town-operated Free Visitor Shuttle through Aug. 30. This will be the fourth year free shuttle service has been provided by the Town of Estes Park. Riding the shuttles is free, and the Estes Park Visitors Center’s parking lots at the intersection of U.S. Hwys. 34 and 36 are large enough to accommodate additional cars. Riders have the options of traveling east on Big Thompson Avenue to amusement and lodging areas, west on Fall River Road to the Fall River Visitor Center, or southwest on Marys Lake Road and CO Hwy 66. All three routes will make stops in the core downtown shopping area as well as connect with Rocky Mountain National Park’s Hiker Shuttle at the Estes Park Visitors Center. Several lodging facilities are pick-up points on Big Thompson Avenue before the Blue Route shuttle heads downtown for eastbound stops in front of Rocky Mountain Traders and Barlow Plaza and the Visitors Center. The Red Route shuttle stops at Town Hall before turning north to the bypass and then west on Fall River Road. After stopping at the Fall River Visitor Center, the Red Route shuttle heads back into town and makes stops on the South side of Elkhorn Ave. and ends at the Visitors Center. Both the Blue and Red Routes Photo by Walt Hester are 30-minute rides from start to finish The free shopper shuttle makes regular runs up and down Elkhorn Ave. as well as other key points in Estes Park. and will operate daily from June 27 through August 30 and weekends in ridership and the physical space of our The transportation program was ini- experts first told Estes Park officials that September. core downtown area.” Three shuttles tiated after town officials spent two a reliable public transportation system Marys Lake Lodge is the southwest- are being leased for the summer’s opera- years assessing systems used in other should be established during the peak ern route’s first stop. Other selected tions; one is smaller than what was used locations with consistently high season- visitation season. Marys Lake Road facilities are included during the first three years of operations al traffic and limited land mass available Information about shuttle routes can as pick-up points before the shuttles while the other two are the same size as for expanding parking. It was more be directed to the Estes Park Convention head west on Colorado Hwy. 66. The used in past years. than a dozen years ago that planning & Visitors Bureau at 577-9900. YMCA – Estes Park Center is included as a stop on the Brown Route which is an hour-long ride from beginning to end. The Brown Route will be operated Shuttle Quick Guide June 27 through Aug. 30 and the first two weekends in September (Sept. 5, 6, RED & BLUE Shuttles start at 10 a.m. through Sept. 7. The Hiker Shuttle 12 and 13). Last Shuttle of the day leaves the operates weekends only during the All routes depart from the Estes Park ROUTES Visitors Center at 7 p.m. remainder of September. The first bus Visitors Center and connect with Daily June 27 through August 30 leaves the Town of Estes Park Visitors Rocky Mountain National Park’s Hiker Saturdays & Sundays in September HIKER SHUTTLE Center at 6:30 a.m. and the last bus will leave the Park & Ride bound for Shuttle that travels from the Visitors including Scots Fest weekend June 27 through Sept. 7 Center to the Park’s Park & Ride shut- (Sept. 5&6; 12&13; 19&20; 26&27) Estes Park at 8 p.m. on all scheduled Every Saturday and Sunday through days. The hiker shuttle will run on an tle hub on Bear Lake Road. Shuttles start at 10 a.m. Sept. 27 “We’re indebted to Rocky Mountain Last Shuttle of the day leaves the hourly schedule early and late in the National Park for lending us their vehi- Visitors Center at 7:30 p.m. day; switching to a half hour schedule The express “Hiker Shuttle” oper- during the peak of the day (10 a.m. to cles during the first three years of our ates from the Town of Estes Park ‘experiment’ with shuttle operations,” 6 p.m.). BROWN ROUTE Visitors Center to the Park’s Beaver A park pass will be required to said Lowell Richardson, Deputy Town Meadows Visitor Center and continues Administrator. “Through that we Daily June 27 through August 30 board the bus. The last bus of the day Saturdays & Sundays only through to the Park & Ride. The Hiker that returns to the park will leave the learned that we could operate smaller Shuttle operates daily from June 27 vehicles that are better suited to our Sept. 13 (Sept. 5&6; 12&13) Estes Park Visitors Center at 7:30 p.m.

46 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition 20-18878

2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 47 Take the High Road Journey Over Trail Ridge along the National Scenic By-Way to the Picturesque Village of Grand Lake

he mountain west is blessed with restaurant options, summertime in villages and lakes, including the Grand Lake is an escape back in time. Tpicturesque Village of Grand Lobelia, poppies, and columbines flour- Lake. Sitting on the northern shore of ish in the thin mountain air…as wildlife Grand Lake, the village has a warm abounds. western downtown with flower-decked A travel destination point for more boardwalks beckoning visitors to browse than 100 years, Grand Lake has carefully the unique shops and galleries or eat in preserved its heritage as one of the many restaurants. Beaches, foot- Colorado’s oldest resort communities. paths, parks and picnic areas are snug- Catch a glimpse into life in the early gled along the lake shoreline. Here is a days of Grand Lake by visiting the his- charming mountain village with small toric Kauffman House Museum, a for- town warmth. As you stroll down the mer stage stop and hotel originally built Courtesy Photo boardwalk, you’re immediately struck by in 1892. Grand Lake offers plenty of family fun. First settled in 1876, Grand Lake two things: everyone seems to know one Grand Lake soon became a popular onship course is carved out of the another, and they’re happy to introduce became a supply center in 1879 when gold and silver were discovered nearby vacation destination. woods at the western entrance to Rocky you to their friends. Browse the unique Mountain National Park. At an altitude shops with the “Old West” style store- on the Colorado River. Prospectors came Activities abound in into the area from Breckenridge and the of 8,420 feet, your tee shot might be fronts. and around Grand Lake checked out by a moose eating the fair- Nestled at the western entrance to Blue River and by crossing the mountains on what is today, Trail Ridge Road. • Grand Lake is the largest natural way grass on the front nine or by the Rocky Mountain National Park, the body of water in Colorado. Enjoy boat- curious fox that roams the back nine. Village of Grand Lake is one of The much sought-after gold existed only in small amounts and the prospectors ing, tours on a pontoon boat, skiing, In an area with views to spare, the spec- Colorado’s unspoiled hideaways. and sailing. With nearby man-made tacular vistas of the snow-capped Never Surrounded by breathtaking beauty and moved on. Grand Lake survived by welcoming visitors then as they do now. Shadow Mountain Lake and Granby Summer Range rival the challenge of Colorado’s largest natural lake, the Reservoir, the three recreational lakes making par. On-line tee time reserva- Village has managed to preserve its west- By the early 1900s, the area was attracting families who built summer offer more than 150 miles of scenic tions 24 hours a day, seven days a week. ern heritage and remains a quiet, quaint, shoreline for camping, fishing or hiking. For information call 970-627-8008 or charming mountain town to this day. homes along the shores of the lake and in the surrounding hills. Although it was • The Grand Lake Golf Course, an 800-51-8580 (toll-free). Visit Featuring Rocky Mountain rustic archi- 18-hole, 6,650 yards, par 72 champi- www.grandlakegolf.com. tecture and a variety of lodging and then a two-day drive from Denver,

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20-18909 48 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Longs Peak Scottish-Irish Highland Festival 33 Years of Celtic Tradition

By Janice Mason he largest Scottish Festival in the West takes place in Estes Park. Bagpipes and drums, Highland and Irish dancing, music, jousting, athletic and dog Tcompetitions take place at the festival. Massed bands compete and delight crowds on the festival field. The 2009 festival takes place Sept. 10 through 13, on the Festival Grounds, Fairgrounds at Stanley Park. The gates are open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Friday through Sunday. Tattoo Estes opens the festival on Thursday at 7:30 p.m. Concerts fill the nights with revelry, featuring Colorado Celtic Rock Concerts at the YMCA, Folk Concerts and the Ceilidh (Celtic New Year’s Party) at the Holiday Inn Conference Center and Longs Peak Concert at the Rodeway Inn Hwy 34 — all at 7:30 p.m. Evening Tattoo and concerts are priced separately. The highlight of the festival is the free, hour-long parade of bands along Elkhorn Avenue, downtown, beginning at 9:30 a.m. on Saturday, Sept. 12. See Scot Fest: page 50

Photos by Walt Hester

2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 49 Scot Fest: dancing and athletics Continued from page 49 Sunday morning brings the Pancake Breakfast, with a chance to meet the jousters and athletes. The Festival Field events, competitions, merchants and entertainment take place continuously, Friday through Sunday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday evening marks the end of the festival with the Honored Guest Banquet. Dogs, indigenous to the British Isles, compete and entertain festival guests. The merchant tents offer crafts and Celtic merchandise. The Clan tents contain repre- sentatives displaying tartans and family crests. The aroma of American and Celtic food fills the air, along side the famous Scotch and beer tents. Singers, storytellers and Celtic rock bands entertain in tents found in numerous locations on the festival grounds. Folk musicians, Alex Beaton, the Brigadoons, and the Boston Kiltics will entertain this year. Brother, Hadrains Wall and Angus Mohr will rock the festival. The Town Pants will perform at the Ceilidh. Other bands, the Next Chapter, the David Munnelly Band and Colcannon, will also perform at the festival. Young dancers execute Highland, folk and Irish dances. The arena hosts medieval jousters in combat, and the athletic field showcases caber, stone and hammer throwing by well-accomplished women and men. The festival field is filled with massive bands, performing traditional drum rou- tines and ceremonial anthems. Military and Scottish Bands perform in competition, with awards announced at the end of the festival. Tickets for the Longs Peak Scottish-Irish Highland Festival are $25 at the gate, and $20 in advance at the Visitors Center and Safeway, or online at www.scots- fest.com, or www.ticketswest.com. Evening Tattoo and concert tickets are also available in advance. For more information, call 800-90-Estes or e-mail info@scot- fest.com.

Photos by Walt Hester

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Exit I-25 and US 34, Exit 257B • 5661 McWhinney Blvd., Loveland, CO 80538 • (970) 663-1916 • www.outletsatloveland.com The Estes Park Music Festival Offering a collection of classical and eclectic sounds

Compiled by Janice Mason he Estes Park Music Festival presents an outstanding schedule, featuring classical, Tinternational, vocal and instrumental musicians year-round. The summer schedule offers programming by the Colorado Music Festival chamber orchestra featuring American conductor Michael Christie. Born in Buffalo, New York, in 1974, Christie’s exceptional career spans conducting posts on three continents. After gaining early international recognition in 1995, when he was awarded a special prize for “Outstanding Potential” at the First International Sibelius Conductor’s Competition in Helsinki, Christie has been consistently identified among the most talented and most closely watched conductors of his generation. Christie was appointed music director of the Colorado Music Festival in 2000. During his first six seasons, he has increased festival audiences through his enthusiastic leadership, innovative programming and widely acclaimed audience-building ini- tiatives. The Sounds of Summer 2009, with spectacular music by the Colorado Music Festival, will begin on Monday, July 6. Three indoor concerts this summer will be held in the historic and acousti- cally-ideal Concert Hall at the Stanley Hotel, located at 333 W. Wonderview Avenue, on July 6, 20 and 27, with a July 13 concert at the Estes Park High School. Sounds of Summer 2009 July 6, 7:30 p.m., Stanley Hotel Concert Hall Bach: Orchestral Suite No. 3 in D major Strauss: Horn Concerto No. 1, Op. 11 Schumann: Symphony No. 2, in C major Andrew Bain, horn Joana Carneiro, guest conductor July 13, 7:30 p.m., Estes Park High School auditorium “Whimsical Symphony” Rossini: “Il Signor Bruschino” Overture Mozart: Concerto for Flute and Harp, K. 299 Haydn: Symphony No. 90 Lisa-Maree Amos, flute Marguerite Lynn Williams, harp Michael Christie July 20, 7:30 p.m., Stanley Hotel Concert Hall Chamber Music Duos by principal chair musicians of the Colorado Music Festival July 27, 7:30 p.m., Stanley Hotel Concert Hall All Mozart La Clemenza di Tito, K. 621 Piano Concerto No. 27, K. 595 Symphony No. 41, K. 551 “Jupiter” Orion Weiss, piano Michael Christi The Estes Park Music Festival also presents a Winter Series of exquisite performances at the Historic Stanley Hotel. The concert series takes place November through April on Sunday after- noons at 2 p.m. featuring a variety of chorale, instrumental and solo performances. For more information, schedules and ticket information, call 586-9519 or visit www.estesparkmusicfesti- Photo by Walt Hester val.org. The Stanley Hotel is home to the majority of Estes Park Music Festival concerts.

52 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Golfers, left and below, enjoy rounds on the Estes Park Golf Course on glorious summer days.

Photos by Walt Hester

Swing for the mountaintops Two courses with an altitude in Estes Park

round of golf in Estes Park comes in two flavors: the nine-hole variety, as played at the Lake Estes Golf Course, a comfortable nine-hole that hugs Lake Estes and is cut Aby the Big Thompson River, and the 18-hole variety available at the Estes Park Golf Course. There are likely to be elk on the side at either course to share your round with you, not to mention the sort of scenery every course this side of Pebble Beach would kill for. And if your tee shot seems to travel a little farther than usual, chalk it up to the thinner air at 7,500 feet. Estes Park Golf Course The Estes Park Golf Course, located at 1080 S. St. Vrain Avenue (Colorado Highway 7), has been ranked among the most scenic sets of links in the country. The season begins in mid-April, when the play is punctuated by the spring snows that bring moisture to the course and kick-start the green-up when the sun hits the fairways, and a wet April should give the courses everything they need to get the grass growing this year. By mid-June, the 6,400-yard (from the blue tees), par 71 is hitting peak condition, which it maintains well into September. The second hole, a 143-yard par three, has a new tee box this season. The course has a Pro Shop and driving range, and a restaurant, and hosts about 30,000 rounds a season, including numerous tournaments. Tee times are recommended, especially for a morning round during the peak summer months. Call 866-586-8146 ext. 0 for tee times. Electric carts, pull carts and clubs are available for rental. Lake Estes Golf Course The Lake Estes Golf Course, located at 690 Big Thompson Avenue (US 34), plays at 2,209 yards from the men's tees, and par is 31. As at the 18-hole course, tee times are recommended during the summer season — call 970-586-8176. Pull carts and clubs are available for rental. Some water makes a round on the Lake Estes Golf Course interesting, and there are almost always a few elk around — it's a favorite wintering spot for them, and the spring green-up is their salad bar. All told, about 20,000 nine-hole rounds are played at the course annually. Tee times at both courses can be made up to seven days in advance for weekdays, and on the Friday of the previous weekend for weekend reservations. Winter Golf From November through March, the Lake Estes Golf Course is open for winter golf play, and there are plenty of pleasant and playable days over the course of the winter. The seasonal rate of $7 for unlimited, all-day play, no tee times required. 2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 53 Estes Park’s Total Shopping Experience

HighlandHighland MusicMusic Very Unique Gifts (970) 577-1118 with Good Luck & Good Fortune and Minstrel’s Gifts * Excellent Selection of Musical Instruments * Folk & Celtic CDs Books & Sheet Music * Musical GIfts, Supplies & Accessories * Tapestries and Celtic Décor * Celtic & Fantasy Gifts Located in the Old Church Shops Mall

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Yoga Accessories • Bellydance Accessories Decoratives Handmade Clothing • Scarves Huge Selection of Silver Jewelry • Purses • Jewelry Boxes Incense • Statues • Singing Bowls • Tapestries www.himalayanartsandcrafts.com Tour the World’s Only Moses Street Photography PewterPewter MineMine TourTour Take an “elevator” ride down to the world’s only “Pewter Mine.” A fun and educational tour. The mining, alloying, mold making and casting of pewter explained. Pick a free pewter crystal off the mine wall to keep. 970-586-7221 www.mosesstreet.com FREEFREE CastingCasting Demonstrations!Demonstrations! You get to pour a pewter hummingbird or fine silver onto Summer Hours 11:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. a bundle of pine needles to make a Sellers & Buyers Save $Thousands “one of a kind” piece of jewelry! 970-586-4933 FUNFUN andand Educational!Educational! www.ThePewterMine.com • Full Service • Proven Marketing System • Three Different • Colorado Licensed Programs • Guarantee in Writing Rod Rawson Broker “Always there to help!” Old Church Shops Suite 16C, Estes Park 586-2510 866-311-2510 FAX 970-692-8152

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Where the Past Meets the Present

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On the West End of Elkhorn Avenue • www.churchshops.com Spend the Fourth of July in Estes Park

Compiled by Janice Mason ravel to Estes Park for a Fourth of July weekend that is jam-packed with events that continue Tthrough the following week. The Independence celebration schedule presents special music events, Arabian horses, vintage cars and the spectacular fireworks display over Lake Estes. Independence week schedule July 1 — Richard Geppinger in concert at Performance Park Amphitheater, 417 W. Elkhorn Ave. at 7 p.m. Ministry musician Richard Geppinger performs. Bring a lawn chair or blanket for more comfortable seating. July 1 — Queen City Jazz Band performs a SummerFest concert in the Walter Ruesch Auditorium at the YMCA of the Rockies at 7:30 p.m. Call 586-3341 for details. July 2 — Yeahbut Shoehead Band concert at Performance Park Amphitheater, 417 W. Elkhorn Ave. at 7 p.m. Summer reading program kids concert sponsored by the Estes Park Public Library. Call the library for details, at 586-8116. Bring a lawn chair or blanket for more comfortable seating. July 3 — Nancy Cook in concert in Barlow Plaza, from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. The Barlow Plaza Music Series is sponsored by Poppy’s and Mama Rose’s Restaurants, located at 338 and 342 E. Elkhorn Avenue. Barlow Plaza sits between the two restaurants Photos by John Cordsen on the Riverwalk. Two patios provide outdoor dining while listening to favorite local musicians every Friday and Saturday night throughout the summer months. July 2, 3, 4 and 5 — Arabian Horse Show at the Fairgrounds at Stanley Park, 1209 Manford Avenue. Arabian horse competitions begin each day at 8 a.m. The Arabian horse has a reputation for intelligence, spirit, and stamina. This breed of horse has a distinctive head shape and high tail carriage. Not only is the Arabian horse is one of the most easily recognizable horse breeds in the world, it is also one of the oldest horse breeds. Archaeological evidence of horses that resemble modern Arabians dates back 4,500 years. Arabian horses were brought from the Middle East by both war and trade, and were used to improve other breeds by adding speed, refinement, endurance, and good bone structure. Arabian bloodlines are found in almost every modern breed of riding horse. July 4 — Annual Holiday Pancake Breakfast at major; Strauss’ Horn Concerto No. 1, Op. 11; Our Lady of the Mountains Catholic Church, 920 Schumann’s Symphony No. 2, in C major; with Big Thompson Avenue, from 7 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. Andrew Bain on horn. Ticket price is $25. Advance The breakfast is a benefit for Crossroads Ministry, a ticket sales are available at Macdonald Book Shop, non-profit organization assisting people in need Photo by Tony Wedick 152 E. Elkhorn Ave., and at Hobert Office Services, throughout the Estes Valley. 1140-A Manford Ave. Call 586-9519 or visit July 4 — Coolest Car Show, featuring vintage vehi- www.estesparkmusicfestival.org for details. cles from the 1920s and beyond, in Bond Park, Estes at 9:30 p.m. One of Colorado’s most brilliant July 6 — “Climbing and Backcountry Skiing in downtown Estes Park, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Close- fireworks displays in on of the most beautiful moun- RMNP and Peru” at the Estes Park Public Library, up inspections cost $4 for adults, $2 for children and tain locations in the state. East Elkhorn Ave., at 7 p.m. Join ClimbingLife Guide’s students, $10 for the whole family, and free for chil- July 5, 6 and 7 — Cowboy Sing-Along in Bond Eli Helmuth for amazing photos and stories of climb- dren under six-years-old. The Coolest Car Show is the Park at 7 p.m., featuring Cowboy Brad and Kathy ing and backcountry skiing in Rocky Mountain biggest fund-raiser of the year for the Estes Park Fitch. Brad and Kathy specialize in original acoustic National Park. Helmuth will also present his travels to Museum. folk, family and western music. They are known for Peru for mountain climbing in the heart of the South July 3 — Dick Orleans in concert in Barlow Plaza their melodic folk music and songs. American Andes. The program is sponsored by Enjoy on the Riverwalk, from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. The Barlow July 5 — Music in the Mountains Faculty Estes Park and the Estes Park Public Library. Seating Plaza Music Series is sponsored by Poppy’s and Mama Concerts at Rocky Ridge Music Center, 465 Longs is limited and prior to the program several restaurants Rose’s Restaurants, located at 338 and 342 E. Elkhorn Peak Rd., at 7:30 p.m. Adult tickets are $15; seniors are offering specially priced meals to those presenting Avenue. Barlow Plaza sits between the two restaurants 65 and over/$12; students ages 12 to 18/$12; children a dining certificate. Call 586-8116 for details. on the Riverwalk. Two patios provide outdoor dining under age 12/free. Call 586-4031 for more informa- July 7 — If still in town, come to the Rooftop while listening to favorite local musicians every Friday tion. Rodeo Parade along Elkhorn Ave., downtown Estes and Saturday night throughout the summer months. July 6 — Sponsored by the Estes Park Music Park, at 10:30 a.m. Kicking off rodeo week festivities July 4 — Evening Program at Beaver Meadows Festival, the Colorado Music Festival Chamber is the traditional Rooftop Rodeo Parade, featuring Visitor Center, Rocky Mountain National Park Orchestra will perform in the Concert Hall at the bands, groups on horseback, floats, unique automo- Headquarters, 7 p.m., featuring a wide variety of Stanley Hotel, 333 W. Wonderview Ave., at 7:30 p.m. biles, rodeo royalty and more. Stay for the 2009 informative programs on Saturday nights that cover The performance by the Chamber Orchestra of Rooftop Rodeo, taking place through July 12 at the issues pertaining to the preservation of the ecology of Boulder Chautauqua, features Michael Christie, music Rodeo Arena Fairgrounds at Stanley Park. Call 577- the national parks. Call 586-1206 for details. director, and Joana Carneiro, guest conductor. They 9900 for details. July 4 — Independence Day Fireworks over Lake will perform Bach’s Orchestral Suite No. 3 in D 56 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Scandinavian Midsummer Festival First summer festival celebrates the season

By Janice Mason tart the summer off right with dancing, a pastry or two and fun with the whole family. The SScandinavian Midsummer Festival will take place on June 27 and 28, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., in Bond Park, downtown Estes Park. Scandinavians celebrate the summer solstice, the longest day of the year, with a festival of flowers, food, textiles, arts and crafts, music and traditional dance. Musicians and dancers entertain both days at the festival. Children enjoy the festivities around the Midsummer pole decorated with flowers and ribbons. Professional Scandinavian dance instructors assist visitors in traditional movements throughout the festival. Bakers offer delectable treats. The Scandinavian Midsummer Festival brings the traditions of Norway, Sweden, Finland, Denmark and Photos by Walt Hester Iceland to Estes Park. Festivities begin on Saturday morning in downtown Bond Park with the raising of the Midsummer pole followed by an opening ceremony. Colorfully dressed families enter the park carrying the flags of their native lands. The day continues with entertainment provided by a variety of folk dance groups and Scandinavian musicians. All activities are free and open to the public. Midsummer was originally a fertility festival with customs and rituals associated with nature and the hope for a good autumn harvest. The celebration has its roots in pre-Christian practices and is a day when the nature spirits join humans to rejoice in the long days of summer. For more information, visit www.estesmidsummer.com.

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2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 57 Rocky Mountain Nature Association Experts in the field of nature

By J’Ann Wright, Ed.D., field seminar manager he 2009 Rocky Mountain Nature Association Field Seminar season is in full swing. This year, Tmore than 75 seminars offer classes in a wide variety of topics. Most seminars are scheduled to begin at the Field Seminar Center and then move into the Park to take advantage of its unique beauty and spectacular wildlife. RMNA Field Seminars fill a unique niche in Estes Valley by providing adult and children’s classes in natural and cultural history, art, photography and outdoor skills. Adults can learn more about local history in “Estes Valley: History and Historic Sites” on July 17 and Aug. 7. Curt Buchholtz, the executive director of RMNA, will lead participants on a unique tour of the historic sites in and around Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP). The seminar includes lunch at an historic lodge and lots of great conversations. “Western Heritage II: Converging Communities,” a weekend retreat at Wind River Ranch, will examine at how RMNP, the town of Estes Park, ranches and lodges have converged to make Estes Valley what it is today. Photographers will enjoy learning more about how to photograph things that move - water, elk, hummingbirds - in two new seminars taught by award- winning Trail-Gazette photographer Walt Hester, “Still Motion Photography and Be Still! Photographing Hummingbirds.” Glenn Randall will return to teach “Landscape Photography” and Don Mammoser will help folks learn more about their digital cameras in “Introduction to Outdoor Photography” and “Digital Photography in RMNP: Advanced Techniques.” Lee Kline and Perry Conway will share their tips on photographing wildlife. Artists will be happy to see two returning artists, Mark Silvers and Cheryl Pennington. Silvers will teach “Water Painting: Basics of Landscapes” and Pennington will provide instruction in “Coloring Photos courtesy Rocky Mountain Nature Association Historic Photographs.” Nyla Witmore, a professional artist, will join Field Seminars for the first time to teach two seminars - “Sketchbooks for Tourists, Travelers and Artists” and “Sketching and Painting.” New natural history seminars are also in the works. Bird lovers will not want to miss “Mountain Birds and How They Live” and “Wings at Dusk.” These two seminars will be taught by Jeff Maugans, a RMNP naturalist and interpretive ranger. Maugans brings depth of knowledge and great enthusiasm to his seminars, which are designed to help novice and experienced birders alike. Drs. Steve and Irene Little will use the new Estes Park Memorial Observatory to share “What’s New in Astronomy,” a seminar that will explore how constel- lations were viewed by other cultures and give the class a peak at some of the profound discoveries of galaxies from the Hubble space telescope. Kevin Cooks will offer two new seminars, “Beavers: More than Teeth and Hats” and “Follow the Bear Signs.” “Young Naturalists: Wilderness Exploration and Encounters” (WEE), a series of seminars for children ages nine to 12, is back for 2009 and “Estes Park Treasure Hunt” is a new seminar for children and families. These seminars will focus on navigation and natural history. Children will use hand-held GSP their observations through their art. National Park. The Field Seminar office is located at units to learn more about the natural history of Estes The 2009 Field Seminar program will provide 1895 Fall River Road. For more information about Valley. “Art Adventures” will return this year during opportunities for families, children and adults to learn these seminars or to register, call 586-3262 or visit the month of July and provide budding artists with about the mysteries and beauty of Rocky Mountain www.rmna.org. the opportunity to learn about nature and to express 58 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition That is not an elk The moose population is on the upswing on the east side of the Park

ou are going to see elk — little ones, big ones and hundreds and hundreds of cows. Elk, elk, elk, almost everywhere you look. Look! There’s 200 more Yelk! But if you see a moose around here, then you've seen something. Even the locals will stop at the moose-based version of an Estes traffic tradition, the elk jam, to snap a couple of quick pics. Moose — Alces alces, the largest member of the deer family —- were introduced to Colorado in North Park in the late 1970s and have slowly been expanding their range since. More breeding is taking place in the area around Estes Park, biologists say, but they are still a novelty in the Estes Valley and the east side of Rocky Mountain National Park, where they tend to turn up unpre- Photo by Walt Hester dictably. Sprague Lake, the pond A fully grown bull moose can weigh well over 1,000 pounds, making it along the trail between the Fern Lake easily the biggest animal you’ll find around here. Trailhead and Arch Rocks, and the pond near mile marker 6 on US 36 the west side of the Park, in the Kewaneche Valley. But the best place to find just outside of Estes Park are places moose remains in North Park, where the Michigan River along Colorado Highway where they seem to turn up at least a 14 and the Illinois River in the Arapaho National Wildlife Refuge are good places couple times each summer. to look for moose. Moose are rarely found far from As with all wild animals, you will want to give a moose plenty of room if you water, and beaver ponds and stream- encounter one while out on a hike, and give an especially wide berth to cows with sides choked with willows are their calves, and bulls, especially in the fall. Though their numbers around here are still favored haunts, so be on the look-out sparse, there have been a few moose incidents already, including one in which a for them in these kinds of habitat. hunter found himself treed for a couple of hours when the elk he thought he was If you are really interested in see- tracking turned out to be a cow and calf. Photo by Walt Hester ing a moose, you'll want to take a Without a doubt, a full-grown bull elk sporting a six-point set of antlers is a Give a cow moose with a calf or year- drive. Moose are more common on majestic beast. But a 1,500-pound bull moose with a shaggy beard? That would be ling plenty of room. a sight to remember.. Hilarious Comedy! 6 Live shows National Park Every Week! Players Present

By At Estes Park’s Park Village Joe Sears Playhouse Jaston Williams 900 Moraine Ave, Ed Howard Mountain Western next to The Other Side Restaurant Home Decor & Apparel Show Times Prices • Ladies Mountain Apparel & Accessories • Native American Jewelry Adults - $16 • Silver & Bronze Jewelry featuring Wednesday - Sunday The Mummy’s Bundle 7:30 pm Seniors (60+) - $13 • Custom Rustic Furniture • Custom Cabin Bedding & Accessories Estes Park’s premiere location for all your Wednesday Matinees Children - $9 • Mountain Home Furnishings & Gifts rustic home furniture & accessories! • Custom Orders Always Welcome Come in & see our vast inventory of 2:00 pm Call for Group Rates • Interior Design Services Available furniture, lamps & rustic home furnishings! *Special July 4th - 2:00 Matinee Ladies Apparel including Double D Jackets, Leathers, Furs & Jewelry The Trading Post 231 Moraine Ave Estes Park 970-586-9226 www.thetradingpostonline.com 20-50108

2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 59 A pair of hikers pause to enjoy the view on the hike from the Bear Lake parking lot to Nymph Lake and points beyond. Below, a hiker gets a close-up of wildflowers in the alpine tundra on Fall River Pass. Photos by Walt Hester

A day in the backcountry To see the sights, pound some trail

ocky Mountain National Park is loaded with miles of hiking trails and by Back down Bear Lake Road a ways is the Glacier Gorge Trailhead, from which far, the most common activity (save watching elk) in the Park would have to there are some great possibilities. Hiking up Glacier Creek, soon enough you get Rbe hiking, particularly day hikes. These can take a lot of forms: a short jaunt to choose between a run to The Loch going one way (with places like Sky Pond to get out and stretch the legs, an easy (relatively speaking) few hours on a moder- beyond), or going to Mills Lake the other. The Mills Lake route opens up the pos- ate trail, or, on the far end of the scale, the epic, trail-pounding journey to a sibility of reaching Black Lake. Mills and The Loch are both pretty close to six- remote destination and back. mile roundtrips. A day hike is a great way to immerse yourself in the Park's wild country, a The Fern Lake Trailhead is starting point for both out-and-back and loop hikes. chance to a look at wildlife and dramatic features, and to leave the hectic commo- The trail runs along the Big Thompson River for just under two miles, and passes tion and traffic of Estes Park behind for a while. Arch Rocks, on its way to The Pool, a deep hole in the river that effectively marks Short hikes don't need much explanation, or planning for that matter. Enjoy. the mouth of Forest Canyon, one of the wildest corners of the Park. For longer hikes - if you do plan to cover some ground and be out most of the From The Pool, you have two options: continue onward towards Fern Lake, an day - some forethought is good idea. The Park is, after all, largely wilderness with excellent greenback cutthroat trout fishery, or a short climb looping back toward highly variable weather. Cub Lake, which is pretty but fishless. But even then, the tools are simple: a good pair of boots, a rain jacket, a water For longer treks, Wild Basin - the Park's southeast corner - is a great starting bottle and a water filter, a snack for the trail, and a map. This collection of items point with a nice list of destinations available, including Sandbeach Lake, Finch does not touch on the things you would need in a survival situation, so if the weather is dicey or you are going someplace technical or espe- See HIKING: page 61 cially far out and back, you would want to beef up the items you hit the trail with. Step two: pick a destination. This is easier said than done, and how far will be comfortable for you to go is a question you will have to answer for yourself. Eight or 10 miles in a day is fairly comfortable trek for a full day, but many of the most desirable destinations - say you want to hit the headwater lake at treeline at the end of a trail for a little high country fishing - can add up to 12 or 15 miles round-trip. That's a long way unless you are acclimated to the altitude and pretty decent shape. Of course, you can always bite off more than it turns out you can chew: just turn around when you feel you've gone far enough, and if the pull of your destination is not too great. There is a lot to be said for grinding out a death march and hearing your dogs bark when you pull yourself onto a barstool back in town at night. Feeling like you've been somewhere is a good thing. The options can be overwhelming, but let's start at Bear Lake, as many people do. And easy walk gets you to Dream Lake in little time, and from there you can head to Emerald Lake or Lake Haiyaha, which is less than four miles round-trip.

60 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Photo by Walt Hester A hiker arrives at Mills Lake in Glacier Gorge around midday. Hiking Continued from page 60 Lake, Pear Lake, Ouzel and Bluebird Lakes, the Hutcheson Lakes, and Thunder Hiking Guide. Lake. You might have noticed by now that most of the hikes follow a stream and the Wild Basin is still considered the Park's quiet backwater and is, in fact, one of trails often terminate at one high country lake or another. This is useful on a long the wettest areas of the Park, sliced as it is with small tributaries of the North St. hike whether you have any interest in trout fishing or not, and is where the recom- Vrain River, including Cony Creek and Ouzel Creek, with several dramatic water- mended water filter comes in. It's hard, and not a whole lot of fun, to carry all the falls, including Calypso Cascades early in the hike and Ouzel Falls a little farther water you will need on a sun-up to sun-down hike, and it's not even a good idea along. to try. It is important to remember that at altitude you are going to dehydrate The crown jewel of Wild Basin, though, could be considered Thunder Lake. faster than you would at a lower elevation, and nothing will cripple an afternoon Now you are approaching the 14-mile mark to get there and back. This is getting in stunning country — the place you have burned leg and lung to reach — like a into serious trekking territory, and the hike up the valley the North St. Vrain flows dehydration headache. There are a number of good water filters and purifiers on through is tremendous, especially when you start to climb up on the north side of the market. Get one, carry one, use one. You will regret it otherwise. the valley on the approach to Thunder. A note of caution about summer thunderstorms is also in order. July and That's RMNP central and south, at least on the east side. The other major August are the season for them, they boil up around midday on a daily basis, and jumping off point, in the north end of the east side of the Park is the Lawn Lake in the high country they can come over a ridge and jump on top of you with Trailhead, from which a range of hikes is possible, all of which begin by hiking alarming quickness. At that time of year, assume there will be an afternoon storm. around Horseshoe Falls and hiking along the Roaring River, where signs of the Two aspects of these storms are what create dangers for hikers. The first is light- Lawn Lake flood 25 years ago are plainly visible. This is a great route into the ning. You do not want to get caught above treeline when there is lightning around. Mummy Range The second is the chilling effect of afternoon storms, which can turn a flawless These are just a few of the possibilities. For an encyclopedic look at hikes in the mountain day into a cold, rain-soaked slog back to the trailhead. Plan to stay dry Park, consult Lisa Foster's book, Rocky Mountain National Park — The Complete and off exposed areas when the afternoon storms crop up. 2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 61 Estes Park Dining, Food, Treats & Beverages Coffee on the Rocks The Grubsteak Penelopes “Where the coffee is as great as the views!” Marvel at the beautiful mountain We feature fantastic Burgers, Steaks, Buffalo Steaks and Elk Steaks. We also The hometown place with a worldwide reputation. Best burgers in town. views as you enjoy our organic free-trade coffee, tea, smoothies and other cold have Rocky Mountain Trout, Baby Back Pork Ribs, Buffalo Ribs, Pastas, Burgers, hot deli sandwiches, vegatarian menu. Kids meals, hot dogs, wings, drinks. Offering breakfast, lunch and dinner with baked goods from the famous Sandwiches and Salads. Home of the $3.99 Breakfast Special (two eggs, baked potatoes, soups, salads, breakfast and much more. Old fashioned & Schmidt’s bakery, “lunches-to-go”, panini sandwiches, salads, soup du jour, potatoes & toast.) Full breakfast menu in summer. Serving lunch and dinner made fresh for you. 229 West Elkhorn. 970-586-2277. year-round. Largest shaded patio, sunny pub room, and an Old West smothered burritos and more! Free Wi-Fi! Indoor/Outdoor seating (Lakeside or atmosphere. Take out available. Public parking lot in rear. 134 W. Elkhorn on the deck). Featuring local artists. Meeting room in back. Large flat-screen Avenue 970/586-8388. Pura Vida TV. Plenty of parking. Located on Hwy 36 on the way to RMNP,next to Red Costa Rican Cuisine. Salads, Soups, Seafood, Steaks, Combination Plates. Plus Rose Rock Shop & Dick’s Rock Museum. Open year-round. 510 Moraine a childrens’ menu and an American menu. 160 1st St., 970/586-3686. Avenue. 970/586-5181. Inn of Glen Haven Open for the season May 22. Located in rustic downtown Glen Haven, north on County Rd 43 from Estes Park. Call for reservations. 970-586-3897. Sundeck Restaurant DeLeo’s Park Theatre Cafe & Deli Serving the best food under the sun for the last 61 years. Known for our grilled Whether you’ve visited us in person before, heard about us by word of mouth, Kind Coffee fresh trout, steaks, chili rellenos and other excellent dishes. Reservations or learned about us from The Food Network, we’re delighted to have you here. recommended for dinner. Non-smoking dining room. Full bar. Open mid-May to Kind Coffee is Estes Park’s exclusive organic coffee roaster, roasting daily on You’re invited to stop in for some of the finest, mouthwatering Italian deli early October. Amex, Discover, Visa, MasterCard. 915 Moraine Ave. (2 miles the West End of town. We offer two full-service espresso bars located on the you’ve ever encountered. Sit inside with us or outside along the Fall River East and West Ends of the River Walk featuring our fresh roasted coffees. Fruit west of downtown, at the junction of Hwy. 36, Mary’s Lake Road and High (weather permitting), or take a feast to go and head into Rocky Mountain smoothies, milkshakes, and frozen drinks are made to order! Fresh bagel Drive.) 970/586-9832. www.sundeckrestaurant.com National Park, which is just up the road. You will find us at the entrance to the sandwiches and breakfast items, lunch sandwiches to go, along with local Historic Park Theatre, the oldest continuously operating movie theater west of baked goods and desserts round out our offerings. Pounds of fresh roasted The Tavern at Marys Lake Lodge the Mississippi, and just a few steps from the exact center of downtown Estes coffee, t-shirts and mugs are great souvenirs and gift items! As a locally owned We offer casual comfort and serve a hearty meal in a fun-filled atmosphere. Park. If you have an event happening in town, you can share great deli with business and a member of 1% for the Planet, Kind Coffee is committed to The Tavern is the only establishment in the area to offer live entertainment your guests. Try our full-service World Class Catering! 132 Moraine Avenue, both our community and our environment. KIND is what coffee should be. SEVEN NIGHTS A WEEK from May – October, and FIVE NIGHTS A WEEK from Estes Park. 970/577-1134 November – April. Located just three miles from downtown Estes Park on Hwy Locals Grill 7. 2625 Marys Lake Road. 970/586-5958. Donut Haus Estes Park homemade cooking offering full menu, patio dining, cocktails, pizza, Proudly serving handmade donuts and other baked goods for over 30 years. wings, soups, salads. Menu for kids. Open daily at 11 am. 153 E. Elkhorn, Trailhead Restaurant at Rocky Mountain Gateway Come and enjoy an Estes Park tradition. We are locally owned and operated. 970-586-2074. (Fall River entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park.) Relaxed dining nestled Open Daily 6 am to 1 pm. 342 Moraine Avenue, Estes Park. 970/586-2988. just outside the Park with spectacular views of mountain scenery. Visit us for www.donuthaus-estespark.com Lonigans Saloon Nightclub & Grill either breakfast, lunch or dinner and enjoy either traditional menu favorites or An Irish Pub. The best in live music and entertainment. Great atmosphere, fun, our selections of wild game, Buffalo and Elk. Enjoy a glass of wine or beer with food, and drink. Serving Appetizers, Burgers, Wings, Reubens, Fish & Chips, Dunraven Downtown your dinner whether seated in our cozy dining room or at a table outside on and other great tavern fare. Happy hour food & drink specials. Downtown at We serve fresh, homemade Italian cuisine in the heart of downtown Estes. the deck. Open daily 8:00 am – 9:00 pm seasonal. 3450 Fall River Road, 110 West Elkhorn. 970-586-4346. www.lonigans.com. Dunraven Downtown has the feel of an open-air bistro with a warm, inviting Estes Park. 970/577-0043. dining room with hand-painted murals of the Italian countryside. Whether you Mama Rose’s Homemade Italian feel like an in-house cut sirloin steak, shrimp scampi, or pasta favorites such Twin Owls Steakhouse at the Black Canyon Inn Taste. Traditional Italian food at its best, in a casually elegant atmosphere. as our famous lasagna or chicken primavera, we’ve got something you’ll love! We have a warm candlelight feel accompanied by culinary skill and Enjoy great wine, or relaxing beer in the dining room or seasonal riverside We have an extensive wine list that compliments our menu. Save some room impeccable service that is unparalleled in the Estes Valley. We serve a variety patio. A varied children’s menu is available for the little ones. Open daily at 4 for our spumoni or tiramisu. There is a public parking lot conveniently located pm for dinner. 338 E. Elkhorn Ave. (Barlow Plaza), Estes Park. 970/586-3330. of entrées from steaks and chops to pastas and seafood. 800 MacGregor behind our restaurant. Dunraven Downtown is open for lunch every day at 11 Avenue (Devil’s Gulch Road). 970/586-9344. am. We start serving dinner at 4 pm. 101 W. Elkhorn Avenue, Estes Park. 970/586-3818. Mountaineer All the taste of home. Just like you remember them. Breakfast served all day. Vega Daily specials, good “Down Home Cookin”. New location; 361 S. Street Vrain, Come join us on our huge rooftop patio in the heart of downtown with views of Dunraven Inn Hwy 7. Open Daily 7 am. 970-586-9001. Estes in every direction! If you prefer indoor dining you can sit in our bright, “The Rome of the Rockies.” Estes Park’s most romantic restaurant featuring sunny dining room or relaxing full bar. Try a pitcher of one of our eight beers on Italian cuisine, great steaks and wonderful seafood. Dinner served nightly at 5 Molly B tap, wine, or a refreshing sangria. Enjoy Spanish-style tapas, pizza, salads, pm. 2470 Colo. Hwy. 66, Estes Park. 970/586-6409. local fare such as trout and elk, and delicious grilled entrées. Vega opens every Estes Park creative eatery; breakfast, lunch – daily specials and vegetarian day at 11 am. See us on the rooftop at the Courtyard Shops, 205 Virginia menu on all meals. Homemade desserts and soups. Beer, wine, mixed drinks. The Egg & I Patio Dining. Catering. 200 Moraine Ave. Open 6:30 am. 970-586-2766. Drive, Estes Park. 970/586-9494. Northern Colorado’s best breakfast and lunch. Omlettes, fritattas, egg dishes, soups, salads, sandwiches. Summer hours: Mon-Sat 6 am. - 2 pm. Sun 7 am. - The Other Side The View Restaurant at The Historic Crags Lodge 2 pm. Winter hours: Mon-Sun 7 am. - 2 pm. 393 E. Elkhorn Ave. 970-586-1173. Where people who know Estes Park go. Prime rib, steaks, seafood, Rainbow Surround yourself in the rustic charm of this Historic Lodge that hosts views of trout. Game entrees, sensational Sunday Brunch. Full service bar, childrens the entire Estes Valley! The menu offers steak, fresh fish, pasta, and vegetarian Estes Park Brewery menu. National Park Village at the corner of Moraine and Marys Lake Rd. entrées. Wine, beer, and cocktails are available to accompany your meal. Call 970-586-2171. for reservations. 300 Riverside Drive, Estes Park. 970/586-6066 Come for a free taste of our many beers. Open at 11:00 am daily. We have a wide variety of food along with pool tables, video games and TVs. Deck seating with views of Longs Peak. 470 Prospect Village Drive. 970/586-5421. Peak to Peak American Grill The Wild Rose Casual Colorado dining serving traditional favorites, offer a full bar and private Family Friendly with a Taste of Europe. The Wild Rose Restaurant, the Staff and banquet room. Hours: Winter 3-9, Summer 3-10. 451 S. St. Vrain Ave. Chefs have always felt to please their guests and make them comfortable. The Grandmaison’s Chalet Room at Marys Lake Lodge 970-577-0577. Continental Cuisine with fresh Seafood. Hand-cut Steaks and homemade We offer world-class cuisine in an elegant ambiance. Award-winning Chef Marc Sauces are a delight and rewarding for the palate. We open at 11 am and Grandmaison has created an extraordinary menu offering a culinary tour of Poppy’s Pizza & Grill serve all day Lunch or Dinner (until 10 pm in the Summer Season). Please join Europe, with specials from Lisbon, Barcelona, Milan, Munich, and Athens, as Imagine. Create. Eat. Soup, salad, sandwiches and pizza created as you want! us for a delightful meal and great selected Wines in our two Dining Rooms or well as exquisite seafood, steaks, veal, lamb, and pasta, just to name a few. Fun, casual dining area or seasonal riverside patio. Menus are available for enjoy the sunshine on the Patio. If you have special needs, please let us know Vegetarian and vegan entrées are also extensive! Located just three miles from kids 12 and under. Open daily at 11 am. 342 E. Elkhorn Avenue (Barlow and we will try our best to serve you. Old Church Shops, 157 W. Elkhorn downtown Estes Park on Hwy 7. 2625 Marys Lake Road. 970/586-5958. Plaza), Estes Park. 970/586-8282. Avenue, Estes Park. 970/586-2806. 62 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Day tripping from Estes Park If you have the time, you CAN get there from here

Compiled by Juley Harvey • Cache la Poudre The byway follows f you’d like to savor some of the surrounding countryside on brief road trips Colorado’s only designated and adventures during your stay in Estes Park, the following provide happy wild and scenic river, the Itrails galore to explore. Cache la Poudre. It’s north • Estes Park — Glen Haven — Drake of Rocky Mountain Take Devils Gulch Road (CR 43) north to the small town of Drake, following National Park, running the North Fork of the Big Thompson River. The Glen Haven-Drake loop is a through Roosevelt lovely hour-and-a-half drive without stops. Allow some time to pause and enjoy National Forest and the scenery of Devils Gulch along the way. Colorado State Park from • 37th RockyGrass Bluegrass Festival — July 24-26, Lyons. Fort Collins toward Live bluegrass music is everywhere, as musicians form jam circles in the woods Cameron Pass. The along the river, and the audience listens. Colorado State Forest has a • 19th Annual Folks Festival — August 14-16, Lyons. A musical mosaic of visitor center for moose songs, stories and summertime providesmellower moods and the perfect cool for watchers. The driving dis- the warm Colorado sun. The festival opens with the prestigious Folks Songwriter tance is 101 miles, with a Showcase. For more information, call (800) 624-2422 or see the Web site at plan- driving time of 3 hours. etbluegrass.com. • Old Fall River Road • Colorado River Headwaters National Scenic Byway This motor nature trail, Follow the magnificent Colorado River as it begins its journey west to carve the constructed in 1921, was Grand Canyon and flow to the Pacific. Take Hwy. 34 from Grand Lake to Granby, the first auto route in Hwy. 40 to Kremmling, County Road 1 (gravel road) to State Bridge, 75 miles, Rocky Mountain National driving time: 90 minutes to drive, 3-6 hours to enjoy. Avoid travel on gravel por- The Great Stupa welcomes visitors to the Park offering access to the tion after rain or snow. Shambhala Mountain Center at Red Feather Park’s high country. It is nar- • Peak-to-Peak Scenic Byway Lakes. row and has many switch- Enjoy spectacular views of snow-capped peaks along the Continental Divide backs (trailers or vehicles and access to historical mining communities, such as Black Hawk and Central over 25 feet are not allowed). Opening date for the Old Fall River Road is usually City, dating from the late 1800s. The byway begins as CO Highway 7 in Estes around the 4th of July. Snow usually closes it in late September or October. Park, passes Lily Mountain and Twin Sisters, then turns south just past Allenspark • Grand Lake is a small town located on the eastern shore of Grand Lake. The on CO Highway 72, goes to Nederland, where it continues south on CO town is the western entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. The lake is large, Highway 119, through Blackhawk, through Clear Creek Canyon and down to I- clear and is the deepest natural lake in Colorado. All types of boats are allowed on 70. Many gold mines were located along Highways 72 and 119. There are many the lake. Shadow Mountain Lake and Lake Granby aspen stands, as well, so it is a definite gold mine in the fall. A distance of 55 are within a few minutes’ drive from the town of miles, from Estes Park to I-70, is about a 2-hour drive. See Day tripping page 64 Come Check Out Our Wine Cellar!

RAMBO’S LONGHORN LIQUOR MART 1640 BIG THOMPSON AVENUE ESTES PARK, CO 586-8583 Located West of Lake Estes Kegs Available Marina on your way into town 20-08724 YOU’RE THE OF OUR BUSINESS! 20-17229 2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 63 Day tripping from Estes Park Continued from page 63

Grand Lake. • Lake Isabelle in the Indian Peaks The Indian Peaks Wilderness area is immediately west of Nederland (roughly 30 minutes west of Boulder). The hike from Brainard to Lake Isabelle will reveal waves of wildflowers in the summer. Navajo, Apache and Shoshoni Peaks surround Lake Isabelle, and protect a small year-round glacier. To enter the Brainard Lake section of the Indian Peaks Wilderness area, follow the Peak-to-Peak highway from Nederland to Ward. • Georgetown Loop Railroad Take I-70 and follow the signs to Georgetown. The Georgetown Loop Railroad features a train that runs for 12 miles through the Royal Gorge. The view is spectacular, especially in the fall, from open railroad cars. The Loop will take you from Georgetown to Silver Plume over a trestle bridge. The train ride will take approximately an hour and 15. • Shambhala Mountain Center This mountain valley retreat is located on 600 acres in northern Colorado, at |4921 County Rd 68-C, Red Feather Lakes. Since 1971, the Center has offered hundreds of programs on Buddhist meditation, yoga and other contemplative disciplines. Attracting thousands of visitors a year from all over the world, The Great Stupa of Dharmakaya is the largest and most elaborate example of Buddhist sacred architecture in North America. Visitors are welcome every day of the year. For more information, see the Web site at www.shambhalamountain.org or call (888) STUPA-21 (788-7221).

Photos by Walt Hester Nearby Allenspark provides some rustic scenic moments for nearby get- ways. Earth’s Brilliance Stunning nature photographs from the Trail-Gazette’s award-winning photojournalist are now available at www.eptrail.com.

Order now — Visit www.eptrail.com and click on Photos. eptrail.com

64 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Colorado’s ‘Highway to the Sky’ Trail Ridge Road Offers Stunning Views

MilnerMilner PassPass

GoreGore AlpineAlpine HighestHighest pointpoint RangeRange VisitorVisitor onon roadroad CenterCenter 12,18312,183 ft,ft, 3,7133,713 m Photo Courtesy Shining Mountains Group N LavaLava A thin ribbon of Trail Ridge Road crosses the landscape above timberline CliffsCliffs with Longs Peak pictured in the distance. rail Ridge Road winds gently zones along the journey. When you through some of the most reach timberline, the last of the trees RockRock Tbreathtaking scenery in the state. are twisted and stunted against the tun- CutCut Visitors to the area who are interested dra. in taking the drive should set aside a Some animals that motorists might leisurely day, bring a camera, and hop encounter along the way include the ForestForest in the car for a tour on the highest con- bighorn sheep, elk, pikas, marmots, CanyonCanyon tinuous paved road in North America. moose (mostly on the west side of OverlookOverlook RMNP), and ptarmigans. The highway to the sky covers the y l

Plant life is diverse, despite what n 48 miles between Estes Park on Rocky d o

a appears to be incredibly hostile condi- Mountain National Park’s (RMNP) east o p

u R tions here for most of the year. side, and Grand Lake on the west side.

y r Construction of Trail Ridge Road There are around 200 species of frag- e a v i w began in the autumn of 1929 and was ile, tiny alpine plants that hug the earth R e

l n finished to Fall River Pass in the sum- beside the road. Their growing season l

a O mer of 1932. The road was built to may only last 40 days, but the little F

d make up for the old Fall River route, plants bloom in great sweeps of yellow, l which was too narrow for increasing red, pink, blue, and violet. OldO Fall River Road motorized traffic, full of hairpin switch- The Tundra World Nature Trail is a backs, and prone to snow slides. fantastic place to see these delicate dis- Engineers of the road were mindful plays without damaging them; a half of the magnificence of the surrounding hour walk begins near the parking lot at RainbowRainbow landscape and were cautious that the Rock Cut. CurveCurve road wouldn’t interfere with the vistas The tundra is an important and frag- around them. When possible, the rocks ile environment, and it is strongly recom- HiddenHidden that were blasted during the road’s con- mended that you do not step outside of ValleyValley struction were used to build retaining the designated path or pick flowers. walls. The annual spring plowing of Trail The maximum grade on the road Ridge Road is a Herculean undertaking. does not exceed seven percent, and Crews generally start plowing in mid- eight miles of the road is 11,000 feet April. Plowing Trail Ridge can cost in AlluvialAlluvial above sea level. At its highest point, excess of $36,000 and takes an average of FanFan Trail Ridge Road peaks at a dizzying 42 days to accomplish. The National 12,183 feet in elevation. Motorists ven- Park Service keeps their plows in top working order during the plowing by turing out from either Estes Park or ManyMany Grand Lake climb around 4,000 feet in fueling, oiling, and greasing them every ParksParks elevation in a few minutes, beginning morning. A rotary plow, called the ‘pio- CurveCurve in montane forests of aspen and pine neer rotary’ clears the centerline of the HorseshoeHorseshoe before entering sub alpine forests of fir road all day, while a second rotary widens ParkPark and spruce. the road. A grader and bulldozer then Motorists tend to try and reach tim- pulls the snow towards the side of the berline quickly. Slow down and take road. Runoff from the snow banks is tjw your time, enjoying all the climate See Trail Ridge: Page 66 2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 65 Trail Ridge Continued from page 65 diverted into drains and ditches. At the Visitors Center, where motorists can tude sickness in some people. Drink • Be on the lookout for wildlife on end of the day, the equipment is parked stop and have a snack, purchase sou- plenty of water. The elevation may also the road or on the sides of the road. at Rainbow Curve to avoid the machin- venirs, and browse exhibits that are aggravate heart or lung conditions in Deer and elk on the side of the road ery being stranded by passing storms. staffed with Park rangers who are happy some people. may startle and leap in the path of vehi- Trail Ridge Road closes with the first to answer questions and share informa- • Afternoon thunderstorms are com- cles. heavy snowfall of the season and tion on this spectacular area. mon in the mountains in the summer • Warn oncoming vehicles of wildlife remains closed in the winter, generally Some things to remember while trav- months. It is also very important to be in the road by flashing your headlights reopening on Memorial Day weekend. eling on Trail Ridge Road: aware of lightning at the high elevations at them. Nature has a great deal to say about the • Bring a jacket, even if it a bright found on Trail Ridge Road. Trail Ridge Road is not a toll road, but scheduling of this road, and it is not warm day. At the high elevations on • If you see a beautiful scene or you must pay the entrance fee at RMNP uncommon for visitors to drive between Trail Ridge Road, it may be 20 to 30 wildlife that you would like to look to travel on the road. Fees for the summer six-foot walls of snow even at midsum- degrees cooler than the temperatures in more closely at, be sure to pull safely 2008 season are $20 for a seven-day mer. Estes Park or Grand Lake. off the road to stop. Many accidents are entrance fee for passenger vehicles, $10 Atop Trail Ridge Road is the Alpine • The high elevations may cause alti- caused by people stopping in the center per person per night on a bicycle or of the road to photograph animals or motorcycle, or $35 for an annual parks scenery. pass.

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Experience the magic of floating over the countryside in an open wicker basket

Photo by Walt Hester 1-877-AIR-COLO Snow closes Trail Ridge Road for most of the year. The road is usually www.aircolorado.com 1-877-247-2656 open from late May to late October or early November. Longmont Hot Balloon Marys Lake Lodge & Resort—Estes Park’s Unsurpassed Getaway Two Distinct Restaurants Luxurious Overnight Accomodations The Chalet Lodge suites & condos—some with private hot tubs or Jacuzzis! The Chalet serves steaks, seafood, fresh fish and Italian Hot tub & outdoor heated pool on property. The Tavern World-Class Spa Hearty meals in a fun-filled atmosphere. Best outdoor heated deck! The Escape Spa and Salon Live music year round! Lounge Open Until Midnight. located on property— 970-577-9495 20-17080 Great facility for weddings or special events.

2625 Marys Lake Road 3 Miles South on Highway 7 Lodge:970-586-5958 Toll Free: 877-442-6279

66 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Where’s Wilbur? Tail-gating in the mane— Giddyup to the horse shows

Compiled by Juley Harvey of well-balanced horses, 34 inches tall at the maximum, eager to please, gentle and affectionate and are stes Park is an equine heaven, no horsing extremely versatile, excelling in a variety of disciplines around. Small, big, schooled or shown — including driving, halter, jumping, obstacle and others. Eyou can find a horse of a different color to • If you hanker for a more exotic horse, seek the fit almost any riding habit. sleek, chic Arabians, at the Fairgrounds at Stanley Park, At Estes Park’s Stanley Park Fairgrounds, the from July 2 through July 5, beginning at 8 a.m. first horse show gallops in, in June and continues The Arabian horse boasts intelligence, spirit and sta- through the last hunter-jumper’s hurdle in mid- mina. This breed has a distinctive head shape and high August. Miniature Horses hoof into town on lit- tail carriage. One of the oldest breeds, it is also one of tle horse feet in late June, followed by the the most easily recognizable horse breeds in the world. Arabian Horse Show, the week of the Fourth of Horses that resemble modern Arabians date back July. Then the season closes with the Colorado 4,500 years. Brought from the Middle East by both Hunter-Jumper Association’s Copper Penny Show war and trade, Arabians added speed, refinement, and then the nationally recognized Silver Dollar endurance and good bone structure to other breeds. Hunter-Jumper horse shows. Hunter-Jumpers • If you want a little more pizzazz in your pony, and their talented riders may hang out at Stanley check out the hunter-jumpers. Hunter-Jumper horse Park for nearly four weeks, altogether. Each week shows are held throughout the world, representing the of the Silver Dollar shows is highlighted by a disciplines while promoting the welfare of the horse $25,000 Grand Prix, testing the skills of the and fairness in competition. Hunters originally were nation’s best riders and their mounts. ridden in fox hunts. Competitions involve horse and • Should you prefer small packages, make a rider negotiating fences that resemble natural obstacles date for the Rocky Mountain Miniature Horse that might be found in the hunting field. Jumpers may Show, held at the Fairgrounds at Stanley Park, be any breed or size and are judged on their jumping 1209 Manford Ave, June 24, 25 and June 27 and ability, with speed, strength and the ability to clear the 28, beginning at 8 a.m. A variety of competitions jump as cleanly as possible the criteria. Riders and for these charming little critters will be held horses are judged in both competitions. against a backdrop of busy grooming stalls, The Half Penny Hunter-Jumper Show will be held warm-up rings, costumes and carts. The free at the Fairgrounds at Stanley Park, from July 15 to 16, event is sponsored by the Rocky Mountain the Copper Penny Hunter-Jumper Show will be held Miniature Horse Club. Visitors are welcome to July 17 and 18, the Hunter-Jumper Horse Show talk to the animals in the barn area. For more Festival I takes the arena July 22 through July 25 and information, call (970) 577-9900 or (800) 44- the Hunter-Jumper Horse Show Festival II bounds into view July 29 through ESTES. August 2. Events are free and begin at 8 a.m. For more information, call (970) Miniature horses add up to a big wow factor for the whole family. They show 577-9900 or (800) 44-ESTES. off their skills, beauty and grace in exhibitions that provide an extension of the bonding between big human and little equine. Spending time with a horse, learning to communicate and trust, understanding and breaking through fears and eventually knowing the thrill of working in unison are show goals. No bigger than a large dog, American miniature horses are “miniature” versions Clockwise from top, rider shows off dressage moves; miniature horse and cowboy head to the ring; and jumper clears hurdle.

• To top off those horsehairs, take in the Dressage Equestrian Show, complete with top-hatted and tail-coated riders and spiffed-up mounts strutting their stuff, at the Fairgrounds at Stanley Park, Aug. 20 to 23, beginning at 9 a.m. Dressage, a French term meaning “training,” and occasionally referred to as “horse ballet,” provides competitions ranging from amateur levels to the Olympics, which develop a horse’s natural athletic ability and willingness to perform, while maximizing its potential as a riding horse. A dressage horse at its peak can smooth- ly respond to a skilled rider’s minimal prompts by performing the requested movement, in a relaxed, seemingly effortless manner. Although dressage has ancient roots, it was first recognized as an important equestrian technique during the Renaissance, when the European riding masters developed a training system known as “classical dressage,” which is still used as the foundation of modern dressage technique. Sponsored by the Colorado Springs Dressage Association, the event is free. For more information, call (970) 577-9900 or (800) 44-ESTES.

Dressage and jumper photos by Walt Hester; miniature horse photo by Juley Harvey

2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 67 20-07521

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68 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Big bird on the ground, walking around White-Tailed Ptarmigan

o see a White-Tailed Ptarmigan, you are going to have to get into some of the most beautiful and harshest landscapes on earth, the alpine tundra, and Teven then you can have a hard time finding them, they blend in with their habitat so well. The White-Tailed Ptarmigan is the smallest of the ptarmigan, a chicken-like bird in the grouse family, and also the southernmost dwelling of the ptarmigan in North America. (The others are the Willow Ptarmigan and the Rock Ptarmigan, which are not found in the Lower 48). Ptarmigan may be hard to find, but they are easy to identify if you are looking at a specimen. Does it have feathers all the way down to the toes? If it does, it's ptarmigan; if not, it's probably a dusky (blue) grouse. If the bird in question is any substantial distance below treeline, it is almost certainly not a ptarmigan or it's a very lost one. You won't find ptarmigan at the Alluvial Fan, for instance. They rarely come downhill much farther than the banks of willows around treeline, even in the winter. And they don't need to, being well-adapted to life in one of the most brutal habitats you can find. Ptarmigan (all three species) molt, gradually turning white with the onset of winter and blending in with the landscape. In the spring, they molt again, returning to a honey-colored tone flecked with a few white feathers.

Dusky Grouse

The Dusky Grouse, we can presume, knows who he is, even if his name was officially changed a few years ago, when it was decided that the birds of the central Rockies and the birds of the Pacific Northwest were distinct. Their's become Sooty Grouse, ours became Dusky Grouse. But old habits die hard, and most locals will know what you are talking about when you mention Blue Grouse. Fool Hen is another name the bird will answer to, a sobriquet that hints at how easy the birds can be to approach. You can often walk right up to them. The Dusky Grouse is one of the largest grouse — an adult male can weigh every bit as much as a pheasant — and one of the few animals (along with black bears) that actually migrates to a higher elevation to winter. The male grouse is a solitary bird for most of the year, a big blue-grey bird from which its former name originated. Females are smaller and more of a mottled brown color, though the tips of the tail feathers of both is a band of dark grey that make the birds easy to identify. Grouse range from the foot of the Rockies to treeline, and most of the birds that are encountered in the Park are hens with their brood groups — sometimes as many as six or seven birds in a group. In the fall, when the berry crop ripens, grouse are often found around chokecherry patches, a food source they will stick to - competing with black bears - until the crop runs out.

Turkey Like wild turkeys across the country, the numbers of birds roaming the mountains seem to be on the increase in recent years and you never know where they will turn up. They have been spotted around the Fall River entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park, along Bear Lake Road near the Park-and-Ride, on the edge of Wild Basin near Meeker Park… this spring one showed up walking along US 36 near Mall Road. There are five subspecies of wild turkey in the United States, and the local bird is the Merriam's Turkey. The differences among them can be subtle — the Merriam's tend to be blacker than other birds — but identifying a turkey, in general, is obviously a no-brainer. There just is not any other bird near its size out walking around in the mountains. Merriam's Turkeys are bird of the mountains and prefer a habitat of ponderosa forest, and if they are in the vicinity in the springtime, they can often be heard gobbling as the toms try to lure in hens. Their tracks are unmistakable in the dirt - again, there's nothing around here that is going to be of the same size in the same habitat. But turkeys can be hard to locate. They seem to move around quite a lot. Unlike grouse and ptarmigan, turkeys are notoriously hard to approach, and have extremely keen eyesight. Snow forces them to lower elevations during the winter.

2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 69 Thomped Big flows get paddlers’ attention

he Big Thompson River, in a sense, runs backward. Normally, flows on local rivers peak in June, when snowmelt is pouring out of the high coun- Ttry. This is the time of year paddlers keep a play boat strapped to the tops of the trucks, when mild-mannered trout streams are transformed into cranking kayak courses. And, sure, the Big T runs fairly wild then, at least that freestone part upstream of Lake Estes. But then begins the long, steady decline in streamflows that ends in the late fall trickle. Due to the machinations of the Northern Colorado Water Conservation District and the Bureau of Reclamation, though, that is exactly when the Big T below the lake, funneling water through the Colorado-Big Thompson water project and satisfying water calls for eastern plains agriculture, is the biggest. The flows can reach 500 cubic feet per second, and at that rate few paddlers want to touch it. It cranks. Nobody wants to get Thomped. Still, around those epic flows there is a window of opportunity for dropping a boat into the canyon. Backing up into the early summer, run-off season, there are other options, particularly ones that fit around a working boater's schedule. The river can be run from the YMCA, out on the Highway 66 spur, down into town, to the confluence with the Fall River, behind the shops on Elkhorn Avenue, and into Lake Estes. It's a fairly bony run on a narrow river, with lots of rocks requiring technical moves — a solid Class III float. A more hardcore float — Class V+ — comes on a remote stretch of the North St. Vrain, from Highway 7 down to Buttonrock Reservoir, a run known about paddlers as the Proving Grounds. It's gnarly water, and running though country that is effectively wilderness if you pass through it by boat. Experts only: It's a long run that takes eight hours or more on average to get to the reservoir, and one for serious and experienced river runners only. That run is one of three established sections of paddle-able water on the North St. Vrain. The Shelley's Cottages run that begins around Shelley's Cottages on US 36, with a number of possible takeouts. The Town of Lyons also dropped some features into the river from Meadow Park on the North down to the Black Bear Photo by Walt Hester Hole on the main stem of the St. Vrain. A kayaker negotiates the Big Thompson through downtown Estes Park during run-off.

Ken Scott 20-50092 Signed Metal Sculptures

Fall River Condos On the River For Sale Excellent Rental Income Quiet, Completely Remodeled Beetle Kill Tongue & Groove & Trim

Stop In Today And Explore! A special place just for fun at 239 W. Elkhorn next to the waterwheel • (970) 586-5523 Fred Kropp Broker Associate Open 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Daily Cell: 970-227-1368 Office: 970-663-0733 Fax: 970-669-7872 [email protected] www.bluetreerealestate.com 20-50115 70 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Nature’sNature’s BeautyBeauty

Images of Rocky Mountain National Park and Estes Park by Walt Hester

2009 Trail Vacation Edition — 71 Index to Advertisers Aerial Tramway...... 14 American Wilderness Tours ...... 45 Big O Tires...... 15 Big Thompson Indian Village ...... 25 Blue Tree Real Estate ...... 70 Bob’s Towing & Repair...... 31 Boulder Valley Credit Union ...... 44 Brownfield’s Trading Post ...... 29 Coldwell Banker-EVP...... back cover DeLeo’s...... 27 Donut Haus ...... 48 Eagle Plume’s...... 35, 36, 37, 38 Estes Park Good Sam...... inside back cover Estes Park Medical Center...... inside back cover Estes Park Rent All...... 63 Estes Valley Rec & Park ...... 8 Fall River Jewelry ...... 3 Fall River Village ...... 20, 21 Family Medical Center ...... 11 Fun City...... 3 Grand Lake Chamber ...... 47 Gwynne’s Greenhouse...... 68 Inn of Glen Haven ...... 32 Jackson Stables...... 43 Kind Coffee ...... 43 Local Roots ...... 29 Local’s Grill...... 44 Longmont Hot Air Balloon ...... 66 Macdonald Bookshop ...... 14 Mainstreet T’s ...... 44 Marys Lake Lodge...... 66 Molly B’s ...... 45 Mountaineer ...... 44 National Park Players...... 59 National Park Village...... 17 Old Church Shops...... 54, 55 Omnibus ...... 70 Outlets at Loveland ...... 51 Penelopes...... 57 Photos by Sandi...... 25 Plum Creek...... inside front cover Prudential Rocky Mountain Realtors ...... 5 Prudential - Doug Bailard...... 27 Prudential - Jay Harroff ...... 9 Rambo’s Longhorn Liquor Mart...... 63 RE/MAX Mountain Brokers...... 24 Rocky Mountain Connection ...... 11 Rocky Ridge Music ...... 32 Stanley Hotel...... 41 Tiny Town ...... 9 Trading Post...... 59 True Value...... 6 Twisted Pine...... 16 Village Goldsmith...... 4 White Lion...... 44 YMCA of the Rockies ...... 48

72 — 2009 Trail Vacation Edition Estes Park Medical Center Your peace of mind while on summer vacation – we’re here 24/7! FULL SERVICE, CRITICAL ACCESS HOSPITAL AND LEVEL IV TRAUMA CENTER

EMERGENCY CALL 911 970-586-2317 www.epmedcenter.com

“Providing Excellent Health Care and Promoting Community Wellness in the Estes Valley” 20-07522 555 Prospect Avenue – Just 3 blocks off Highway 36 to Stanley Avenue; then right on Prospect. Follow the signs to the Emergency Room. 20-07494 How ToMake YourVacation Permanent.

“Thanks to you, we were able to accomplish our long-time dream of having a get-away in beautiful Estes Park. We highly recommend Coldwell Banker Estes Village Properties. You skillfully took care of all the details and made it a very enjoyable process.” J. & B. Wall—Estes Park, CO and Colorado Springs, CO “I can tell you without hesitation that moving to Estes Park and working with Coldwell Banker Estes Village Properties are two of the best things that have happened to us. We were always treated like friends, rather than just clients.” C. & C. Hillerson, Estes Park, CO “They helped us find exactly the home we wanted for retirement. Their service is anchored in professionalism and integrity, with a genuine friendliness that continues after the transaction.” D. & J. Britton—Estes Park, CO “When I was transferred to Estes as an employee of the National Park, they told us to talk with Coldwell Banker Estes Village Properties. Now we know why. They were excellent. No question, we’ll recommend them to our friends.” T. & N. Greer—Estes Park, CO

There’s almost always a way. Whether it’s buying a retirement home now and rent- ing it to generate income until you’re ready to move in, or finding the perfect retreat to move into right away, we’re experts at helping you explore every option. Stop by or give us a call and let us help you find your perfect get-away, too.

Marcia Duell Randy Good Vicky Holler Dave Kiser Mary Murphy Wayne Newsom Scott Thompson Broker Assoc., Broker Assoc., Broker, CRS, Broker Assoc. Broker Assoc. Broker Assoc., Broker Assoc. GRI GRI GRI CRS, GRI EcoBroker® ESTES VILLAGE PROPERTIES, LTD.

Where the Estes Valley has been coming for real estate solutions since 1985. 970-586-4425 1-800-726-1405 / www.estesparkrealestate.com 320 East Elkhorn, P.O. Box 4130, Estes Park, CO 80517