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Home , Bear Lake (Colorado), Cache la Poudre River, Colorado State Highway 7, Hallett Peak, Longs Peak, Lumpy Ridge

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To Fort Collins C O M A N C H E P E A K W I L D E R N E S S

R A W A H Comanche Peak 12702 ft 3872 m W I L D E R N E S S Mirror Lake

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N l Mount Nimbus D il ra e y i T g d Y E A S E M E N T r 12706 ft Timber Lake Trailhead v Ri E i R LL 34 D d 19mi Gem Lake SUMMER 3873 m iv VA Deer Mtn e e 31km EN R Trailhead T r IDD Trailhead i Forest R H v 34 er Mount Stratus Beaver Ponds i iv m I e R Lake r 12480 ft b D 3804 m H e Jackstraw Arrowhead G Deer Ridge 34 MacGregor n C r Many Parks Curve o T Mountain Lake E Junction s I Timber s Avenue D L 11704 ft e Road closed from here west B p a k y-P k 3567 m a to Trailhead ass m Baker Mountain Creek e e L Deer Mtn o T g mid-October to June Parika 12397 ft im r Doughnut C 3mi 10013ft h D be T o A T Lake 3779 m r r G Lake 5km 3052m L N a N AKE ES A C il Timber Terra Tomah Mountain Y TES R re Azure Inkwell Upper Beaver Beaver Meadows G e Lake 12718 ft O 36 Beaver k Lake Lake N U Meadows Trailhead ig 3876 m te Meadows Visitor Center B Entrance ESTES PARK Holzwarth Mount Julian T Open all year 36 12880 ft ra Station Park Headquarters l WILDERNESS BAK Historic Highest 12928 ft il e ER 3926 m 1mi n G Site Lake 3940 m Moraine Park 7840ft/2390m n k U e LC 2km u H e Prospect T r Julian C M Mountain n 36 Lake t L 8900ft M a h O r t s 2713m i y c N F Bowen Mineral Point s e G p Mountain 11488 ft 5mi Moraine Park s L o M 8km r 12524 ft 3502 m R O C K Y M O U N T A I N Cub Lake a Bowen/Baker Trailhead Hayden Museum P E Trailhead k 3817 m K A Lake Stones Peak e D The ail Trailhead Seasonal A O 12922 ft Tr MORAINE PARK Lake Pool R W W 3939 m Blue Haynach Lonesome d 7 Lake S Lake N U Lake NYO Fern ke Rd Gianttrack To Coyote Valley Trailhead Creek CA Mill Creek Basin Trailhead La Marys N Falls r 66 Mountain Lyons and Rainbow E rn Cub ea Lake E C B 9091ft Boulder Nakai Peak RU Fe E SP Lake 2771m 12216ft C Glacier Spruce Marguerite 6mi HOLLOWELL YMCA el 9km H 3723m Falls n Lake PARK Conference n B E Fern Center Tu OW ail k EN Tr Lake ree rn C C GU k S o Bowen LC o ree c B H H C enic IG Parking for Rams Horn l s Lake o H m Mountain r u O a a h R Bierstadt shuttle bus Glacier R 9553 ft d a N l u l Odessa il o n a Lake 2912 m h n FL Lake M C 8mi a O io T A Basin o n t ra T nt 13km a il S East Portal Lily in O N e R Grace n i inenta Mtn t v nt l Falls Bear Lake a e Co Bierstadt 9786ft l r Trailhead Lake Cr vide 2983m B tu ee Di Trailhead L V hu k U na A R A P A H O S o Lake A T Trail k E D Granite Helene Mtn 4mi e Onahu Trailhead W T e Lily i L k p rai r Storm v to l 6km Sprague Lake R e t C i Falls Mountain L O e a r Pass d l I e E r F i Trailhead D D Flattop Mtn e Trailhead c Trailhead C

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Stillwater E l 3203 m Cony Lyons and H Lake 3545m Lake ut k Boulder ch e Ogalalla Peak e re so C 13138ft n Lakes Cony 4004m 7 Watanga Mountain S t St Vrain Mountain 12375ft V T 3772m ra 12162ft A Twin Peaks in 3707m B 11957 ft G L 3644 m la E c ie rs M Sunset Point O Willow K U n Creek y N a ig R O O S E V E L T N A T I O N A L F O R E S T h T B Granby Reservoir t rk A o w Dam F 72 W o illow I C N b r n R e i L idg e a A e k mp g Pu R K in I N D I A N P E A K S W I L D E R N E S S nal Quinette Point E ar W Ca G Ro il R lo A Willow Creek w Rainbow N Peaceful B T Bay Y ra Valley r il iddle e Arapaho Bay-Roaring Fork Loop M Camp Dick v n i Knight Ridge Trailhead St Vrai R C r e Cr e eek k A Peaceful ado ra Arapaho Bay-Moraine Loop 34 lor p o a Valley C h o B a y Arapaho Bay-Big Rock Loop Generalized landcover in Overlook Ranger station Wheelchair- A R A P A H O Rocky Mountain National Park accessible Glacier Unpaved road Campground Self-guiding nature trail N A T I O N A L F O R E S T Alpine tundra Strawberry Hiking trail Picnic area Restrooms Lake Sub-alpine forest North Montane forest Monarch Continental Divide Boat launch Telephone Lake Meadow To 0 1 2 3 Kilometers Granby and Continental Divide 40 National Scenic Trail 5mi Distance Livery Emergency telephone To 119 8km 0 1 2 3 Miles indicator and Nederland 80 Climbing.com • August 2007 Alpine Moderate Madness in By Majka Burhardt Rocky Mountain National Park Photos by Topher Donahue

Caroline George on the 5.7 fifth pitch of the Culp-Bossier (III 5.8), Hallett Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park.

What comes to mind when I mention Rocky Mountain ridges just backcountry enough to make you earn your beer. National Park (RMNP)? Probably of Longs Peak, The following classics combine long approaches (two to six that 1,000-foot granite plaque capping an ominous east-facing miles) with steep hillsides, butt-kicking scree fields, teetering talus, cirque. Or maybe Hallet Peak and the clusters of V-hard boul- brushy willows, and, of course, exposure and altitude. (None of derers sessioning the talus at its base. Or tourists filming bored, the trailheads sits below 9,000 feet, and these summits all spike overstuffed elk from their RV windows, and then flocking into above 12,000 feet.) The Continental Divide, in fact, splits RMNP Estes Park for ice cream and rubber tomahawks. You probably down its center and forms climber-perfect, with steep east faces don’t think of classic alpine cruiser routes, though. dropping off the great spine. This geological wonder, however, Climbers have been putting up multi-pitch lines here since also has a downside: the broiling clouds that appear each summer 1927, when Paul and Joe Stettner established Stettner’s Ledges afternoon. Time it right, and you’ll arrive at your car sun baked (II 5.7+) up the east face of Longs. And RMNP boasts more and bleary eyed, having enjoyed the simple pleasure of navigating than its fair share of bloody-hard multi-pitch climbs, like Birds curious throngs of hikers, fudge eaters, and enamored elk spotters of Fire (IV 5.11a), Baloney Pony (II 5.12c), and The Honey- on your return. Catch it wrong, however, and you’ll end up shiv- moon is Over (V 5.13c). But the Park’s acclaim, besides the ering under a granite lip, wondering just how well granite, light- saintly setting, is its preponderance of quintessentially alpine ning, and metal get along. sub-5.10 routes, offering steep rock up dramatic corners and

August 2007 • Climbing.com 81 Klettergarden

Spearhead North Ridge (III 5.6)

Enjoying some of the Park’s finest granite, Majka Burhardt chooses her own adventure along the North Ridge of Spearhead.

Perched at the top of Glacier Gorge, Called “The Pinnacle” by hikers in The North Ridge stretches eight pitches, Spearhead (12,575 feet) has some of the 1910, Spearhead, dwarfed by neighboring with the final three creeping along the dou- best granite in the Park. Pete Soby and Longs Peak and Chief’s Head, is often ble-exposed arête that forms the right edge of the spear tip. Start carefully, aiming for Charles Schobinger put up the North Ridge taken lightly. The North Ridge itself some- slabs just left of a pronounced chimney on in 1958, the same year Sykes Sickle (III times lures climbers rightward into a vast the northeast corner of the face. From here, 5.9+) was established on the northeast land of scalloping blocks and hollow boul- create your own route, following a variety of face. Both climbers likely fell in love with ders. One friend launched a dining-room- dihedrals and choosing from innumerable belay ledges. the morning sun glimmering silver on the table-sized chunk of rock down on her The 5.6 rating is accurate, though full northeast-facing slab apron, which today partner, only to have it cleave into a more on. Fortunately, much of the climb is ledgy hosts more than a dozen killer routes manageable briefcase that pummeled his and blocky... hence easier. Still, heads up up to 5.12-. You have to earn this sight, leg. And Spearhead also sits in a “prime” for loose rock and the sucker variations however, as Spearhead hides until the fi- weather position: a client, from the South, leading to climber’s right — instead, stick close to the crest and save some mojo for nal mile of the approach, a five-plus-mile once told me just how much she enjoyed the crux, an awkward left-leaning corner hike that would seem never-ending if not watching the gorgeous clouds “growing that hangs over the east face for the final for its stunning diversity — Mills Lake’s just so darn fast” over her right shoulder. ropelength. flattened plateau, the granite-ensconced One hour later, those same clouds spewed pocket of Black Lake, and the improbable horizontal rain and nuclear-blast-strength eastern channel that shoots you to the wind, though we did make it safely back upper cirque, where you navigate talus, to our packs. tundra, and elk turds to the base of the route.

82 Climbing.com • August 2007 Petit Grepon South Face (III 5.8)

The climb starts with 5.5 face and chimney climbing, but the first true hurdle comes on the third pitch, a jagged 5.7 scar that gobbles gear. Easier climbing sets up the 5.8 crux above: a thinner crack with stem- ming and perfect pockets, and slightly tricky pro. The final pitches wrap around the southeast face. Be warned: up yonder, the sheer verticality of the route suddenly makes mere 5.7 seem wild and unpredict- able. If you summit with your gear, rap north into the Gash, making a long (read: nasty) slog down scree and talus to the Trail. Otherwise, follow bolted rap- pels on the climber’s right; use two 60m ropes and carefully scramble between the stations. This will land you where you started, just in time for a dip in Sky Pond. Nan Darkis on the 5.7 final headwall of the Petit Grepon.

For such a famous and over-traveled ally knows who put up what would later mit plank, preceded by eight pitches of climb (ever read Fifty Classic Climbs?), become the classic. fantastic crack climbing. The three-hour the Petit has a murky history. The north The crown jewel of the Cathedral approach weaves around striking lakes — face of the spire is a mere 100-foot wall Spires, the Petit (12,100 feet) is regally sit- Loch Vale, Glass Lake, and Sky Pond — and was likely climbed in the 1950s with uated, with a concave southern headwall oblong pockets of crystalline blue where little fanfare. The 800-foot south face, towering over Sky Pond. Its neighbors — you’ll occasionally see a lone fisherman however, wasn’t climbed until 1961, when Sharkstooth, the Saber, and the Foil — are casting for trout in the placid morning waters. Bill Buckingham and Art Davidson did a fantastic, too, but none have the grand variant along its left edge. But no one re- finale of the Petit: a 10-by-30-foot sum-

The Saber Southwest Corner (III 5.10a)

six-pitch Southwest Corner starts with From 1957 to 1967, the legendary Layton clean left-facing dihedrals and straight-up Kor, known for prolific new-routing, bold cracks, and finishes on a gravity-defying leads, and fast driving, put up RMNP routes with astonishing alacrity. “Every vertical corner that splits the southwest time I went into the Park, I would have a face. The first time I climbed the route I’d fistful of other lines to try next time — all become so absorbed in the perfect upper before I was done with the route I was on pitches that I forgot about the parties next in the first place,” says Kor. The list is long: the second ascent of the Diamond, and door on the Petit. first ascents ofYellow Wall, Jack of Dia- “F—k me!” I yelled to my partner, an- monds, the Diagonal, Sharkstooth, Chief’s The redheaded stepchild of the Ca- other woman. “You’re not going to believe Head, and the Saber. “Back then, there thedral Spires (above), the Saber is still not it up here.” were so many prizes to pick, you couldn’t to be missed — especially if you want to “No, f—k me!” echoed a male voice, help but do a first ascent,” Kor told me, before asking how many established avoid the Petit’s crowds. In fact, since seemingly right in my ear. (Whoops.) lines I thought the Cathedral Spires held. they share the same approach, you can As it turns out, you can have an en- “Around 30,” I answered. He was quiet for always turn your attention — and your tire conversation across the narrow chasm a moment, and then piped up: “So that feet — east, toward the Saber. Here, the separating the Chamonix-like aiguilles. means there’s still more to do, right?” Southwest Corner is the cleanest choice, You can even ask someone out (and get and many would argue even easier than turned down)... without raising your voice. the “5.8+” Kor Route to its right. The

August 2007 • Climbing.com 83 Klettergarden

Ypsilon Mountain Hallett Peak Blitzen Ridge (III 5.4) Culp-Bossier (III 5.8)

Andrew Councell Blitzen around the third Ace on Mount Ypsilon.

Everyone wants to have done the re- deep in the , on the northern Blitzen’s approach is six miles, but feels even mote Blitzen Ridge, but few actually want edge of RMNP, demands commitment and longer due to the peak’s isolation. Don’t, to do it. Despite Blitzen’s prominence as fitness just to reach the base. If you get lost however, be fooled by the grade — this is alpine 5.4. There is no way out but up, or, the largest peak on the Park’s northern hereabouts, you’re not likely to be found rather, sideways. This mile-long ridge — skyline, the Y-Couloir — a snow route up quickly. In 2005, the ranger Jeff Chris- on sometimes-iffy rock — is not a good the east face — and Blitzen combined like- tensen disappeared off the back of Ypsilon intro to the Park, but rather a good tick ly see few ascents each year. By the time on a solo patrol; his body was recovered a once you’ve earned your lungs, legs, and RMNP chops. you arrive at the Spectacle Lakes you’ll week later. In the 1940s, another unlucky Begin by navigating around, up, and understand why: Ypsilon’s nordwand is, hiker came too close to the edge and slid over the Aces — the triangular gendarmes as put so aptly by the longtime Estes local down the entire north face; rumors of a that split the ridge — usually best Steve Komito, a wall “more impressive to grave at the base of the nordwand circu- accomplished with short pitches. After you look at than to touch.” late among the faithful, though few have puzzle through the ledge systems and occasional cracks, the climbing eases and The 13,514-foot peak itself, nestled found it. the scrambling begins. The last 1,000 feet —fourth class mixed with a few bouldery sections of fifth — force a casual pace. Check out the nine alpine lakes glistening below, or the Never Summer Range stretching north toward Wyoming. If you hit Blitzen right, in late summer, you can catch the tundra changing to red, and aspen trees to gold. Add the gray and black granite, and crystalline blue lakes, and you have a visual, vertical playground.

Burhardt keeps tight to Blitzen Ridge proper.

84 Climbing.com • August 2007 Ypsilon Mountain Hallett Peak Blitzen Ridge (III 5.4) Culp-Bossier (III 5.8)

George playing nice on Hallett gneiss, pitch 2, Culp-Bossier.

Don’t be fooled — and don’t get into an rels off the Continental Divide, dragging The eight-pitch Culp-Bossier leads as one argument — with the locals who call Hal- clouds across the sun and whipping up of the most sustained 5.8s in RMNP. It’s lett Peak “Hallett’s” Peak. They’re talking wavelets of psychedelic algae. also a well-earned route; many have bailed trying to find the vague dihedrals that link about the same thing, regardless of the The seven-pitch Northcutt-Carter used its blanker face sections, hence the teem- drunken pluralization that goes on at Ed’s to be the preferred route up the 800-foot ing, tantalizing (but off-route) bail webbing. Cantina. By any name, Hallett is a Park face, but after a quarter of it cleaved off in Spicy for the grade (as all routes on Hallett anomaly — a short approach (two miles), 2000, turning what had been a Fifty Clas- are), the Culp-Bossier demands a strong head and creative gear skills for the more gneiss, and north facing. It’s also one of sics 5.7 into 5.10+ X, the race was on for nebulous stretches. After you top out the best alpine “crags” around. Though a new favorite. Enter the Culp-Bossier. amongst boulders, a short hike down the hardcore locals romp up (and down) the peak’s broad eastern ridge, two rappels, buttress in a few hours, first timers will a bit of fourth class, and a scree-filled gully find a Hallett ascent surprisingly intricate. take you quickly back to your pack. If you catch a rare storm-free day, you could even Your backdrop is Emerald Lake and do two Hallett climbs (try the Love Route its ever-fluctuating spectrum of greens next)… or, better yet, beat the crowds to — from Kelly, to forest, to evergreen, and the bar. back to its namesake, as the wind bar-

Tossing ropes for the Hallett rappel.

August 2007 • Climbing.com 85 Klettergarden

Notch Top Mountain Longs Peak South Ridge (III 5.8) Keyhole Ridge (III 5.5)

Though smaller than other walls in the Park, Notch Top has played an important role in RMNP history. The Diamond legend Roger Briggs considers his first free ascent of White Room (freed at 5.11 R/X) to be the touchstone for a new style, one that led to Diamond master- pieces like Ariana (IV 5.12a) and King of Swords (V 5.12a R). Previous to his Notch Top ascent, he’d approached peaks with bivy gear and a sack full of pi- tons. In 1973, Briggs climbed White Room with only a rack of nuts; it was a perfect place to start his new “fast-and-light” ethic. Climbers today use Notch Top as a similar stepping-stone. But don’t be fooled: the six-pitch South Ridge is committing, with no fixed anchors. For a long time, the descent was one of the more storied in the Park, with count- less climbers attempting the “mountaineering” walk-off only to get cliffed out and be- nighted. Local climbers and guides, tired of heading into the hills for rescues, bolted a rappel line off the west face. Use it.

Notch Top is not as airy as the Petit, as remote as Blizten, or as storied as Spear- head, but it does have damn good stone. The South Ridge is the highest-quality moderate line up the face, offering plenty of variations from 5.9 to 5.10+. If you keep to the true route, flip-flopping between golden arêtes and sinker cracks, you won’t be disappointed.

Burhardt and George tackling a direct start, at 5.8, to Notch Top’s fabulous South Ridge.

86 Climbing.com • August 2007 Notch Top Mountain Longs Peak South Ridge (III 5.8) Keyhole Ridge (III 5.5)

Longs Peak’s Keyhole proper: climbers go left, hikers go right.

Longs Peak towers 14,255 feet above Options abound on the Keyhole Ridge. • sea level. Most climbers think of Longs in Start by finding the cleanest line from the extremes — as a 15-mile roundtrip walk- Keyhole to the ridge proper — depending Guide Services on where you ascend, you’ll face 100 to 200 • Colorado Mountain School: up, via the Keyhole, or as the steepest and feet of fifth class. Once on top, it’s worth totalclimbing.com, 800.836.4008 hardest technical rock face in the state, via a quick drop over the other side to grab the Diamond. At 5.5, the Keyhole Ridge a bird’s-eye view of Pagoda Peak’s rocky Shops splits the difference. The super-fine granite ridgeline and Chief’s Head’s sheer walls. • Trail Ridge Outfitters: 888.586.4595 As the altitude jumps, a few technical • Estes Park Mountain Shop: 866.303.6548 is just like that of the Diamond, and the steps and cracks keep things interest- large towers and corners impart an other- ing. Steer up and left along the northeast Guidebooks and Web Resources worldly feel. face, keeping the climbing at 5.5. Breathe • Rocky Mountain National Park, On a busy day, the Longs Peak trail- steadily along as the climbing eases, and the Climbers Guide, High Peaks, head can feel more like Disney World follow fourth-class terrain to the football- by Bernard Gillett field-sized summit. Prepare a good “war Rocky Mountain National Park: than the , replete with Donald story” to share with the hikers on the way • and Goofy wearing jeans and sweat- back. Remember: from where they sit, The High Peaks, by Richard Rossiter shirts, carrying canteens and three-pound you’ve walked in from the edge of the world, • mountainproject.com Maglites, and sporting fanny packs which, I suppose, is exactly right. Estes Park Hot Spots crammed with trusty plastic-poncho/ • Ed’s Cantina — local bar and favorite human-kite set-ups. Google the Keyhole climber hangout: 970.586.2919 route and you’ll understand why — more • Climber’s Lodge — bunkhouse and than 19,000 sites give tree-by-boulder-by- showers: 800.836.4008 bush descriptions of Longs’ trade route. Interspersed in the madness (and contrib- Senior Contributing Editor Majka Burhardt uting to it) stride climbers sheathed in has guided and climbed most of the routes black Schoeller, making their Diamond in this article more times than she can remem- ber. Still, she gladly does them whenever the pilgrimages. Fortunately, on the Keyhole chance arises. Ridge you ditch the crowds at the Keyhole itself, a giant window between the moun- tain’s east and west facets.

August 2007 • Climbing.com 87