Welcome to Dubrovnik / Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2O15

Welcome GRATIS

Broj /Number Dubrovnik Toto (Franceco) TINO Storm Chasers! Bergamo Rossi PATTIERA 27 Dubrovački lovci na oluje! Zašto volim Dubrovnik / Why I Love Dubrovnik Svjetski tenor iz Cavtata / World-Famous Tenor from Cavtat Romana Vlašić

Direktorica TZ Grada Dubrovnika Dubrovnik Tourist Board Director

generacijama stanovnika uz obalu feature Why I Love Dubrovnik introduces Jadrana bivala njihovom hraniteljicom, Toto Bergamo Rossi, the Italian art and a začinsko i mirisno bilje ovog podneblja restoration expert, Director General miomirisima godi, liječi i začinja... Priča of the Venetian Heritage Foundation o lopudskoj sirotici, koja je postala i and passionate lover of the island of predložak animiranoga filma, intrigira Lopud, the city of Dubrovnik and generacije, a kroz magazin Welcome its historic and cultural art heritage. dolazi i do šire čitateljske publike. In this issue we reveal the art of the Pomorska i trgovačka sila Dubrovačka Dubrovnik painter Milovan Stanić, Dragi čitatelji časopisa Republika, bila je poznata i po svojoj as well as the historical role of the Welcome to Dubrovnik, brodogradnji, zauvijek ostavivši tragove fakini in Dubrovnik. Pile, Lovrjenac, dobrodošli ! tog umijeća u europskom naslijeđu. St Lawrence and his tears are the Jedan, od mnogobrojnih dubrovačkih topics covered by our ever-inspired znanstvenika, čija su postignuća i u collaborator Maja Nodari, who also ubrovnik je grad za sva širokoj suvremenoj primjeni – Bernard writes about the role of flags at the godišnja doba, uvijek različit Kotruljević, također je temom napisa Festival of St Blaise. This issue also i nov. Otkrivanju sve raskoši D u ovom izdanju magazina Welcome. presents the Linđo Folklore Ensemble, i višeznačnosti njegove povijesti i Između istine i legende je i priča o tri which - in its 50 year history - has left sadašnjosti doprinosi i dvojezični glave iznad gradskih vrata na Pilama, a its indelible imprint on Dubrovnik, magazin Welcome to Dubrovnik. čitajući štivo o njima, doznajemo istinu enthusing younger generations with Listajući ga otkrivate zanimljive priče iz o ovim skulpturama, dok je 2015. its special “Linđo” spirit. In the same prošlosti i sadašnjosti bezvremenskoga godina bila povod tekstu o dvjestotoj way that the Adriatic Sea has been an UNESCO–vog Grada sv.Vlaha. godinšnjici od ukinuća Dubrovačke inexhaustible source of inspiration, so Sadržaj ovoga izdanja, broja 27. za Republike na povijesno važnom Bečkom has the small oily fish the sardine been 2015. godinu, obiluje štivima koja kongresu. the provider for generations of local približavaju život Dubrovnika u svim Kao i svi dosadašnji, i ovaj magazin, people on the Adriatic coast, while the segmentima kulturnog, gastronomskog, kojeg upravo listate, nudi zadovoljstvo fragrances of the spices and aromatic povijesnog, aktualnog, jednom stalnog otkrivanja dubrovačkih priča herbs of the area have been used to riječju „lifestyle“ sadržaja koji se i zanimljivosti, ljudi i osobnosti / please the senses, as well as for healing ovim prestižnim izdanjem približava karaktera koji su oblježili povijest i and seasoning… The story of a poor turistima, posjetiteljima, sudionicima sadašnjost. girl of Lopud, which was also used for kongresa, svima koji vole Dubrovnik, an animated film, has intrigued many ili će ga tek zavoljeti. U rubrici generations, and the Welcome magazine Zašto volim Dubrovnik upoznajte now presents it to a broader public. As talijanskoga stručnjaka za umjetnost Dear readers of the a maritime and merchant power, the i restauraciju Tota Bergamo Rossija, Welcome to Dubrovnik Dubrovnik Republic was also famous generalnoga direktora zaklade Venetian magazine, welcome! for its shipbuilding, leaving traces Heritage, strastvenoga zaljubljenika of its skill on the European heritage u otok Lopud, Grad Dubrovnik i ubrovnik is a city for all for ever. This issue also includes an njegovo povijesno i kulturno umjetničko seasons, always different and article on Bernard Kotruljević, one of naslijeđe. U ovom broju razotkrivamo always new. The bilingual D Dubrovnik’s numerous well-known umjetnost dubrovačkoga slikara Welcome to Dubrovnik magazine also plays scientists, whose achievements are still Milovana Stanića, a doznajemo i its part in uncovering the magnificence widely applied nowadays. The feature o povijesnom značenju „fakina“ u and ambiguity of its history and its Between Truth and Legend brings us the Dubrovniku. Pile, Lovrjenac, sv.Lovro present. Leafing through our magazine, story of the three heads above the city i njegove suze temom su napisa uvijek you will discover interesting stories from gates at Pile and the real truth about nadahnute Maje Nodari, koja je the past and present of this timeless these sculptures. Our magazine marks obradila i temu značenja barjaka na UNESCO site – the City of St Blaise. the 200th anniversary of the abolition of Festi sv.Vlaha. Dubrovački Folklorni The magazine’s 27th issue (2015) the Dubrovnik Republic at the Congress ansambl Linđo, pedeset godina svojim features articles portraying the life of of Vienna. djelovanjem ostavlja trajan trag Dubrovnik in all aspects of its culture, The magazine you are leafing through na životu Grada, odgajajući mlade gastronomy and history, as well as right now is a wonderful opportunity generacije u jedinstvenom linđovskom its present-day lifestyle, presented to learn about the Dubrovnik stories, duhu. Jadransko more nepresušan je to tourists, visitors, participants in curiosities and people who have left izvor nadahunuća, jednako kao što congresses and to all who are fond of their mark on its past and present. je sitna, plava riba – srdela (srđela) Dubrovnik or will grow fond of it. The

Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik / Welcome to Dubrovnik 3 Sadržaj / Contents Nakladnik / Publisher:

Zašto volim Dubrovnik Tri glave nad Vratima od Pila Srdela (Srđela) Why I Love Dubrovnik Three Heads at the Pile gate THe SarDine ToTo (FranceSco) Napisao / By: Damir Račić ...... 43 Napisala / By: Silva Capurso ...... 58 Tel. / Phone: +385(0)20/323-887 Bergamo roSSi 323-889, 323-907 Suze sv. Lovra u Pilama Fax: +385(0)/323-725 Napisala / By: Jelka Tepšić ...... 6 moTar The Tears of St Lawrence at Pile SaPHire www.tzdubrovnik.hr Napisala / By: Maja Nodari ...... 46 [email protected] Barjaci / FLagS Napisala / By: Lidija Crnčević ...... 60 Sunakladnik / Co-Publisher: Napisala / By: Maja Nodari ...... 10 5o goDina razigrane Alfa-2 “linđove” mladosti duBrovaČki lovci na oluje DUBroVniK STorm cHaSerS tel. +385 20 418 453 Milovan Stanić 50 YearS of linđo’s Playful Youth fax. + 385 20 418 454 Napisala / By: Maja Rilović Koprivec ...... 62 Napisao / By: Luko Brailo ...... 50 e-mail: [email protected] Napisao / By: Marin Ivanović ...... 14 web: www.alfa-2.hr

Glavna urednica / Editor-in-chief: Stećci Jelka Tepšić

Napisao / By: Vjekoslav Vierda ...... 18 Zamjenica urednice / Assistant Editor: Lidija Crnčević

Uredničko vijeće / Editorial Board: Benedikt kotruljević Tilda Bogdanović, Pave Brailo, Aida Cvjetković, Marin Ivanović Napisao / By: Ivan Vigjen ...... 22 Miho Katičić, Lukša Lucianović, Ðuro Market, Damir Račić

Lektori / Proofreaders: Mirjana Kaznačić Linda Peričević

Prijevodi / Translations: Dubravka Knežević

Oblikovanje i grafička priprema / Design and pre-press: m&m, Dubrovnik

Fotografije / Photography: MIHO SKVRCE

Foto-arhiva / Photo-archives: TZ Grada Du brovnika Dubrovnik Tourist Board

Naklada / Printing run: 9.000

Brodograditelji nisu smjeli Tisak / Print: napuštati dubrovačku republiku Alfa-2 Shipbuilders were not allowed to leave the dubrovnik republic Napisao / By: Ðivo Bašić ...... 28 gooD FooD FeSTiVaL Tino PaTTiera DUBroVniK ...... 66 duBrovaČki „Fakini“ Napisao / By: Vido Peručić ...... 32 DUBroVniK PorTerS dubrovački polumaraton dubrovnik Half Marathon ...... 67 2oo godina od ukinuća Napisao / By: Lukša Lucianović ...... 52 dubrovačke republike DogaÐanja U DUBroVniKU 2ooth anniversary of the abolition LoPUDSKa SiroTica Naslovnica: THe Poor girL oF LoPUD DUBroVniK eVenTS 2015 Grad u valovima of the dubrovnik republic Cover photo: Napisala / By: Sandra Lacković ...... 56 ...... 68 Napisao / By: Goran Cvjetinović ...... 38 City washed by waves, by Boris Bašić

4 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 5 Zašto volim Dubrovnik

Napisala Jelka Tepšić Toto (Francesco) Bergamo Rossi

oto (Francesco) Bergamo Rossi Heritage je organizacija sa sjedištem posebice Trogiru, Splitu i Dubrovniku. korišteni su orginalni materijali, sve su uz Dubrovnik koji za mene predstavlja generalni je direktor fondacije u SAD-u i uredima u New Yorku U Hrvatskoj , na dalmatinskoj obali, kamene plastike ručno izrađene. Nit urbanistički san, Dubrovnik je bijeli TVenetian Heritage, šarmantni i Veneciji , a dio je UNESCO-vog financirali su obnovu kapele Orsini vodilja u privatnom i profesionalnom dijamant na modroj pučini, gotovo Talijan koji je u Dubrovnik, točnije na Privatnog odbora Programa za čuvanje iz 15. stoljeća u katedrali Sv Lovre u djelovanju Tota Bergamo Rossija je usred ničega susrećete se s gigantskim otok Lopud, došao prvi put na poziv Venecije. Misija Fondacije jest poticati Trogiru (nagrada Europa Nostra 2003 čuvati ljepotu i obnavljati spomenike zidinama. Silno me impresionira i Francesce von Habsburg, također i podržavati umjetničke i intelektualne za najbolju obnovu godine ) , mletačke za opće dobro, za korištenje i uživanje činjenica da je centar tako izvrsno ljubiteljice ovog prelijepog elafitskog inicijative i kulturne razmjene između gotičke kapele u katedrali Sv Dujma , svima.... Magija kojom ga je očarao očuvan , iako ljeti postaje premalen, pa otoka. Boraveći na Lopudu kasnije više SAD-a i Italije , čuvati venecijansku izvorno mauzolej cara Dioklecijana u Lopud snažno ga vezuje za elafitski biser, ne volim boraviti ovdje od 15.srpnja puta zaredom, fasciniran ljepotom i kulturnu baštinu - arhitekturu , Splitu. Sredstvima Fondacije obnovljeni o kojemu kaže: do kraja kolovoza. Ali izvan sezone, skladom otoka, prirode i mora, pronašao glazbenu i likovnu umjetnost u samoj su i romanički portal i krstionica Lopud je mjesto za odmor za tisuće zalazak sunca u Dubrovniku jedna je je ruševinu manjeg samostana na Veneciji, ali i područjima koja su bila katedrale u Trogiru majstora Radovana ljudi i u potpunosti ih razumijem jer je od najljepšh scena i fotografskih motiva uzvisini do koje vodi 170 stepenica. I pod njezinom upravom ili utjecajem. iz 1240., a za Dubrovnik su vezani ovdje prekrasno – ističe Bergamo Rossi, koje sam ikad doživio... pretvorio je u svoj dom. Tijekom godina svoga djelovanja na poseban način, čemu je potvrda koji je na Lopudu boravio i polovicom Toto Bergamo Rossi cjelokupnu karijeru Bergamo Rossi je i profesionalno Fondacija je ostvarila vrlo značajne povezanost Totta Bergama Rossija s prosinca 2014. – uvijek kad se poželim posvetio je obnovi i zaštiti baštine,o povezan uz Hrvatsku, posebice rezultate u restauraciji spomenika, ovim dijelom Hrvatske. mira i samoće dolazim na Lopud, a u čemu kaže : dalmatinsku obalu, jer je ova fondacija ali i skretanju pozornosti javnosti na Kompleksna obnova građevine, koju mojoj kući na osami , na vrhu brda, uz Studirao sam restauraciju, pa je kroz poznata po svojim ulaganjima u obnovu arhitektonska i umjetnička djela, kako je kao skriveni dragulj pronašao nakon fascinantan pogled , to mi je, na sreću, godine moj poziv prerastao u pravu kulturne baštine. Fondacija Venetian u Veneciji, tako i na hrvatskoj obali – dugo vremena, trajala je 2,5 godine, apsolutno moguće. Jako sam povezan i misiju očuvanja baštine.

6 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 7 Why I Love Dubrovnik BY Jelka Tepšić Toto (Francesco) Bergamo Rossi

Kroz Fondaciju Venetian Heritage is to encourage and support art and and this is what he said about the island: brothers in 1498. The restoration work, iskazujemo posvećenost da se sačuvaju intellectual initiatives and cultural „Lopud is a holiday place for thousands worth 90,400 US $, was financed by posljednji tragovi venecijanske kulture, exchange between the USA and Italy; of people, whom I understand perfectly the Foundation, and was carried out ne samo u Italiji, već i u područjima to preserve the Venetian cultural because it is wonderful here. Whenever by Croatian professionals including povezanima s Venecijom. Naš cilj je heritage – architecture, music and I wish for peace and solitude I come to the Dubrovnik sculptor Ivo Jašić, nastojati spasiti kulturno blago i ujedno visual arts in Venice, but also in areas Lopud. Luckily, in my secluded house on who restored the statue of John the promovirati ljepotu, povijest, nasljeđe, that were under its government or a hill top, with its fascinating view, this Baptist damaged - in spite of a wooden jer vrlo često kroz proces restauracije influence. In the course of its existence, is absolutely possible. I also have close protective cover - by shrapnel during možemo skrenuti pozornost publike the foundation has achieved extremely ties with Dubrovnik, which, for me, is the Croatian War of Independence. na neki umjetnički predmet , muzej ili important results in the restoration of an urban dream. It is a white diamond crkvu, što je često i kompleksnije od monuments, but also in drawing public on the open azure sea, where - almost in Venetian Heritage Foundation has also same obnove. attention to works of architecture and the middle of nowhere - you come across taken part in educational programmes Djelovanje Fondacije Venetian Heritage art in Venice as well as on the Croatian gigantic city walls. I am immensely for young restorers, and in organizing u Dubrovniku vidljivo je kroz obnovu coast – particularly in Trogir, Split and impressed that its centre is so well an exhibition entitled The Art Treasure portala Franjevačke crkve završene Dubrovnik. preserved, although in the summer it of Croatia. Bergamo-Rossi adds: „Our 2008. godine – obnovu vrijedne becomes too small, so I don’t like to stay next project in Dubrovnik will be the renesansne skulpture Pieta, koju su In Croatia, on the Dalmatian coast, there from 15 July to the end of August. restoration of the Dominican Church they have financed the restoration of the However, outside the peak season, the altar, which was devastated in the 1970s 1498. izradila braća Petrović. Sredstvima 15th century Orsini Chapel at Trogir’s Dubrovnik sunset is one of the most for the needs of an event. Parts of the u iznosu od 90400 USD obnovu je Cathedral of St Lawrence (2003 Europa beautiful scenes and photographic altar’s stone carving have been kept at a financirala Fondacija Venetian Heritage, Nostra Award, for the Best Restoration motifs I have ever experienced“. nearby chapel, and - upon the approval a izveli su je hrvatski stručnjaci među Otok Lopud / Lopud Island of the Year), and the restoration of the of the authorised institutions - our kojima i dubrovački kipar Ivo Jašić, koji njih da se nastane na Lopudu, stvarajući, oto (Francesco) Bergamo- Venetian Gothic Chapel in the Cathedral Toto Bergamo-Rossi has dedicated foundation will finance the restoration of je obnovio kip Ivana Krstitelja, unatoč kako kaže, malu inozemnu koloniju. Rossi, Director General of the of St Duje, originally the mausoleum his entire career to the restoration the altar to its original form. This highly drvenoj zaštiti, oštećen gelerom tijekom Dok boravi na Lopudu, Toto Bergamo Venetian Heritage Foundation, of Emperor Diocletian in Split. The and protection of heritage, which important and interesting project will - Domovinskoga rata. Fondacija Venetian T Rossi na svom Facebook profilu is a charming Italian who first came to foundation has also financed the he described in the following words: alongside the remaining art treasure in Heritage sudjelovala je i u programima uživanje dijeli sa svojim FB prijateljima, Dubrovnik - or, to be more precise, to renovation of Master Radovan’s Roman „I studied restoration, so - over the the Dominican Church - be another step edukacije mladih restauratora, kao uglavnom izazivajući virtualne uzdahe the island of Lopud - at the invitation portal and font from 1240 at Trogir years - my profession has grown into forward in bringing art and beauty to i u organizaciji izložbe Umjetničko zavisti... of Francesca von Habsburg, also a Cathedral. a real mission of preserving heritage. the world, which is our aim and wish“ – blago Hrvatske. Toto Bergamo Rossi Lijepo je svjedočiti takvom posvećenju lover of this magnificent Elafite island. Through the Venetian Heritage points out Bergamo-Rossi. najavljuje: umjetnosti i naslijeđu, i znati da na Later, while staying there on numerous The foundation has special ties with Foundation we express our dedication Naš sljedeći projekt u Dubrovniku bit svijetu postoje ljudi koji cijene i poštuju occasions, fascinated by the beauty Dubrovnik, as confirmed by Toto to the preservation of the last traces Sharing the beauty of Lopud with his će obnova oltara u Dominikanskoj crkvi, ono što su nam ostavili naši pretci, često and charm of the island, nature and Bergamo-Rossi’s connection with of Venetian culture not only in Italy, foreign friends, he has managed to koji je sedamdesetih godina prošlog bolje, i više, i od nas samih. sea, he discovered the ruins of a small this part of Croatia. The complex but in all regions connected with persuade some of them to settle down stoljeće devastiran za potrebe nekog monastery on a hill accessible by 170 restoration of the building, which he Venice. Our goal is to try to save our there and make a little international događanja. Dijelovi kamene plastike steps, and turned it into his home. had discovered like a hidden gem after cultural treasure and, at the same colony. While staying in Lopud, Toto oltara pohranjeni su u kapelici u blizini many years, took two and a half years. time, to promote beauty, history and Bergamo-Rossi shares his enjoyment i uz suglasnost nadležnih institucija Bergamo-Rossi is also professionally Original materials were used, and all heritage, because very often - through with his FB friends on his Facebook naša Fondacija financirat će ponovo connected with Croatia, particularly the carving elements were hand made. the restoration process - we can draw profile, often provoking virtual sighs of postavljanje oltara u njegovom izvornom with the Dalmatian coast, because Toto Bergamo-Rossi’s guiding principle the public’s attention to an art object, envy… obliku. To je vrlo važan i nadasve the aforementioned foundation is in both his private and professional museum or church, which is often more zanimljiv projekt koji će uz ostalo well-known for its investments in the life is to preserve beauty and restore complex than the restoration itself. It is wonderful to witness such umjetničko blago u Dominikanskoj restoration of cultural heritage. The monuments for the public good and for dedication to art and heritage and to crkvi dati još jedan pomak u Venetian Heritage Foundation is a everybody’s use and enjoyment… Venetian Heritage Foundation activity know that there are people in the world približavanju umjetnosti i ljepote USA-based organisation with branch is visible in Dubrovnik through the who appreciate what we have inherited svijetu, a što je naš cilj i želja - naglašava offices in New York and Venice, and The magic with which Lopud has restoration of the Franciscan Church from our ancestors, sometimes even Bergamo Rossi , koji je podijelivši it is also part of UNESCO’s Private enchanted him binds Bergamo-Rossi portal, completed in 2008, i.e., the better and to a greater extent than we ljepotu Lopuda sa svojim inozemnim Committee for the Venice Preservation closely with this Elafite gem. He also restoration of the valuable renaissance do ourselves. prijateljima uspio zainteresirati neke od Programme. The foundation’s mission stayed in Lopud in mid December 2014, sculpture Pietà, made by the Petrović

8 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 9 Napisala Maja Nodari

- nebeske vertikale u čast sv. Vlaha BarjBarj aci aci

arčevu Festu u Gradu bilo bi nemoguće zamisliti bez gradskih Pbarjaka i, dakako, barjaka svih onih crkvenih bratovština s nekadašnjeg područja Dubrovačke Republike, što su simbolizirali Festu sv. Vlaha kao državnu svetkovinu. Republika je širom svog teritorija, od Konavala, Župe i Rijeke dubrovačke, preko Dubrovačkog primorja, poluotoka Pelješca, sve do od otvaranja Feste do završnice. Uz Mljeta i Lastova, gradeći svom svecu barjake gradskih župa, na Festi su kroz zaštitniku crkve- širila njegov kult. povijest sudjelovali barjaci i barjaktari Ukinućem Republike, Festa se nužno gradova i sela s istočne i zapadne pustošenja Dubrovnika 1806. godine, usklađuje s nesklonim vremenima, no strane Republike, ponosno koračajući pa danas taj barjak ima posebno mjesto srž joj ostaje ista: štovati svoga Parca, pa u procesiji pod svojim barjacima, u procesiji - među gradskim barjacima! joj na svečanost u Grad, po vjekovnoj odjeveni u najsvečanije nošnje, zvane prvu nedjelju po blagdanu prema Gorici tradiciji, dohodi s barjacima svojih župa „zlatna roba“, urešeni zlatnim nakitom. Barjaci se susreću na Kandeloru, kada i natrag, završavajući Festu, spuštajući s vjerni puk, što se zadržalo do danas. Možemo tek zamisliti raskošno izvezene poslijepodne barjak sv. Vlaha okuplja Orlandova stijega bijeli svečani barjak s gradske barjake, ispred Parčeve crkve. U starini je na Festu pristizalo oko barjake, njihove likove, obrube, šare, likom sv. Vlaha. lijevo, a valja ga vrćet u ruci da se ne Sutradan, na blagdan, rano ujutro pedesetak barjaka, danas ih i do 160 boje, zlatoveze. Jedan od ljepših zamota oko lance, cijelo vrijeme mora lepršati gradski barjaci kreću ispred Crkve sudjeluje! današnjih je barjak župne Crkve sv. Srđa Posebno je važno izvijanje, ili povijanje onoliki koliki jest, valja za to imati i snage i sv. Vlaha na Ploče dočekati barjake s i Bahka iz Pridvorja iz 1933., zavjetni barjaka, prava je to umjetnost! I velika umijeća, ali za Parca ništa nije teško. Kao što su trombunjeri i Gradska glazba dar kapetana pomorskog Vukića iz istočne strane, te s njima idu na Pile čast za barjaktara. Jer, prema riječima zvučni okvir Feste, tako im barjaci daju Lovornog. Dirljiva je priča, kako je jedna pričekati barjake sa zapadne strane. uvaženog, ponajboljeg barjaktara Divni su barjaci u ponosnoj povorci upečatljiv likovni i scenografski okvir i mlada Župka, Ane Račić, u njedrima Zajedno ulaze u Grad pokloniti se gospara Antuna Knega, najprije se u procesiji, kulminantnoj točki Feste. ugođaj, a sudjeluju u vlasićkoj proslavi sačuvala barjak sv. Ivana iz Plata u Svečevoj crkvi i sudjelovati u procesiji. barjak pokloni pred Parcem tri puta, Onako slikoviti, vitki, i visoki - nebeske od Kandelore do Gorice sv. Vlaha, vrijeme rusko-crnogorskog ratnog Gradski barjaci se ponovno okupljaju u slijedi poklon tri puta u desno, tri u su vertikale Parcu u čast.

10 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 11 By Maja Nodari

- Heavenly Uprights in Honour of Saint Blaise

t would be impossible to imagine of St Blaise), from the Festival’s opening St Blaise’s Church to Ploče to welcome the festival of Dubrovnik’s Patron to its closing ceremony. Alongside flags the flags from the eastern side, and ISaint without the city flags and, from the city parishes, flags and flag- together proceed to Pile and wait for the of course, without the flags of all the bearers from villages and towns from flags from the western side. All together church guilds which symbolised the the eastern and western sides of the they enter the City to bow down before Festival of St Blaise as a public holiday Republic have taken part in the Festival the Patron Saint’s Church and to take in the one-time area of the Dubrovnik throughout history, walking proudly in part in the procession. The city flags Republic. The Republic spread the cult procession beneath their flags, dressed are gathered together again on the first of its Patron Saint building churches in in their most festive clothes known as Sunday following the holiday. They make his honour all over its territory – from “golden robes”, and adorned with gold their way towards Gorica and back, and Konavle, Župa and Rijeka Dubrovačka, jewellery. We can only imagine the conclude the Festival by lowering the through Dubrovačko Primorje and the lavishly embroidered flags, the images white ceremonious flag with its image of FlagsFlags Pelješac Peninsula, to the Islands of Mljet on them, their trimmings, ornaments, St Blaise from the Orlando Column. and Lastovo. After the abolition of the colours and gold embroidery. One of The twirling of flags is highly important Republic, the Festival had to adjust to today’s most beautiful flags is that of the and a true art! And a big honour for the unfavourable times, however, its essence parish church of St Srđ and Bakh (St. flag bearer. In the words of the esteemed remained unchanged: the honouring of Sergius and Bakhos) of Pridvorje from and finest flag carrier, Mr. Antun Knego, its Patron Saint. Following a tradition 1933, the votive gift of sea captain Vukić the flag first of all is dipped before its going back hundreds of years, the of Lovorno. There is a moving story of a Patron Saint three times. After that, it faithful from all the parishes came to the young woman of Župa, Ane Račić, who is dipped three times to the right and City, carrying their flags, to celebrate the safeguarded in her bosom the flag of St three times to the left. It should rotate in Festival, a custom which has survived up Ivan (John) of Plat during the Russian- the hand avoiding being wrapped around to this day. In the past, around fifty flags Montenegrin plunder of Dubrovnik in the lance, and it should billow out fully. One used to be carried to the Festival, and 1806. Today, this flag holds a special should have both the strength and skill to do today their number has increased to 160! place in the procession – among the city it, although nothing we do for our Patron Just as the musket-bearers and the flags! Saint is difficult. Dubrovnik Brass Band create the One can see the flags on Candlemass, The flags look magnificent in the proud background music for the Festival, when in the afternoon the city flags are pageant, procession, the highlight of the the flags create an impressive visual assembled around the flag of St. Blaise in Festival. Picturesque, slim and tall, they and scenographic impression, taking front of the Patron Saint’s Church. The are heavenly uprights in honour of Saint part in the celebration from Kandelora following day, in the early morning of Blaise. (Candlemass) to Gorica sv. Vlaha (the Hill the Saint’s Day, the city flags move from

12 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 13 Napisao Marin ivanović Milovan Stanić – nesuđeni pomorac koji je oplovio svijet svojim slikarstvom

rvatski slikar čuveni hrvatski likovni kritičar u palači Sponza u Dubrovniku 1954. slikarstvo naišlo na vrlo dobar prijem Milovan Stanić i pedagog. Nakon neuspjeha u godine, a nakon izložbe u Zagrebu kod publike. rodio se u Omišu pomorstvu odlučio je upisati Akademiju 1956. godine započinje njegov strjeloviti H Time je Stanić pronio glas svoje 1929. godine, a odlazak u Dubrovnik likovnih umjetnosti u Zagrebu, koju uspjeh prema inozemnim centrima na školovanje odredio je čitav njegov već na prvoj godini napušta jer njegov – Švedskoj, Švicarskoj, Njemačkoj, zemlje i Grada s kojim je bio neraskidivo život. Tu je završio pomorsku školu neukroćeni temperament nije podnosio Engleskoj, Italiji... Za razliku od vezan. Brojni su uglednici, umjetnici, želeći obići svijet, ali su se avantura da mu profesori ispravljaju slike i mnogih tadašnjih umjetnika, Stanić je kritičari i kolekcionari iz cijeloga svijeta i snovi o plovidbi dalekim morima zatiru kreativnost kakvom ju je on sredinom 1960-ih godina shvatio kako dolazili u Dubrovnik tražeći rastočili kada je, poput drugog velikog vidio. Po povratku u Dubrovnik neko mu je potreban menadžer ako želi svoje njegov atelje u Androvićevoj hrvatskog slikara Vlaha Bukovca je vrijeme radio u Kazalištu Marina radove kvalitetno predstaviti u SAD-u ulici, poznato okupljalište (1955.-1922.) doživio nesreću na Držića kao scenograf i ostvario čitav niz pa ga je i našao, a potom su uslijedile dubrovačkih umjetnika. brodu i bio prisiljen vratiti kući. zaista impresivnih likovnih podloga izložbe u New Yorku, San Franciscu, Stanić je svih pozivao i Tijekom srednje škole, crtanju dramskim predstavama. Prvu Los Angelesu, Hollywoodu i Chicagu dočekivao kao dobrodošle. ga je poučavao Kosta Strajnić, ozbiljniju izložbu priredio je iz kojih je vidljivo kako je njegovo U ateljeu je uvijek netko bio

14 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 15 By Marin ivanović Milovan Stanić – the Would-be Seaman Who Sailed the World with His Painting Suprotno dominantnom kolorizmu koji je u Dubrovniku trajan he Croatian painter Milovan Los Angeles, Hollywood and Chicago, can only be compared to that of Ivan in Dubrovnik in 1954 to his death in već više od pola stoljeća, Milovan Stanić Stanić was born in the town of proving that his painting was widely Meštrović. After the death of Frank 1989, Stanić had more than a hundred ustrajao je na tonskom slikarstvu. Omiš in 1929, and his coming appreciated by the public. Lloyd Wright, Stanić was entrusted exhibitions, mainly abroad – in Paris, T with the completion of Lloyd Wright’s Stockholm, Frankfurt, Hamburg, Upravo zbog te činjenice, teško ga je to Dubrovnik to receive an education ocijeniti u lokalnim krugovima. Srećom, determined his entire life. He graduated Milovan Stanić thus became an design of the Annunciation Church in Geneva, Los Angeles, San Francisco, svijet je dao Staniću priznanje za from the Dubrovnik Nautical School advocate of his country and his City Milwaukee, a present-day state- and New York, London, Tel Aviv, Milan, njegov rad koje nije ostvario niti jedan wishing to travel the world. However, with which he had unbreakable ties. historical monument. In view of the fact Rome and in many other cities. He dubrovački umjetnik, a status kojega his longing for adventure and his dreams Many distinguished people, artists, that Milwaukee’s religious community created hundreds of works including je zauzimao na međunarodnoj likovnoj of sailing distant seas disintegrated after art critics and art collectors from all – which could afford to engage one of oil paintings, frescoes, stained-glass sceni usporediv je jedino s Meštrovićem he – like another great Croatian painter, over the world came to Dubrovnik the 20th century’s finest architects, as windows, drawings and graphics. We ili Murtićem. U Dubrovniku nigdje Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) – had an looking for his studio in Androvićeva well as any painter in the world – chose can certainly claim Stanić to be one of nećete vidjeti javno izložene njegove accident on a ship and was forced to Milovan Stanić clearly reveals how Dubrovnik’s most prolific and talented slike, nemojte se ni truditi, već ih much his art was appreciated. That his artists. He worked on major projects sa Stanićem, tu se pričalo, plesalo, pilo, return home. While attending nautical radije potražite na Internetu ili po school he took drawing lessons from work was highly valued in the USA including the decor and painting of slikalo, vladao je duh kreativnosti i privatnim kolekcijaman što ne umanjuje Kosta Strajnić, the famous Croatian is underlined by the fact that in 1976 the Frankfurt-based Reconstruction neponovljiv doživljaj umjetničke slobode vrtijednost njegovog stvaralačkog opusa painting critic and pedagogue. Having Stanić was invited to teach at Stanford, and Development Bank (Bank für i nesputanosti. Danas takvih ateljea jer je i Pissarro navodno govorio kako failed to pursue a nautical career, one of the world’s most prestigious Gemeinwirtschaft), the furnishing and u Dubrovniku nema. Taj je čovjek je „najveće priznanje za vlastiti rad kada Stanić decided to study at the Zagreb universities. As this was definitely not painting of the Linköping Cabaret, as oko sebe okupljao mnoge i mnogo je netko kupi tvoju sliku“. Academy of Visual Arts. However, the result of his academic status, which well the painting of Santa Barbara’s davao. Bio je vrlo teatralan, volio je he actually did not possess due to his Catholic Church and the aforementioned zadiviti ljude, njegovom je šarmu malo Taj slobodnjački, bonvivanski already during his first year of study, he abandoned the Academy because his having left the Zagreb Academy, we can Greek Orthodox Church in Milwaukee. tko mogao odoljeti. Oboružan svim i boemski život, koštao ga je zdravlja conclude that it was undeniably Stanić’s Milovan Stanić died of a heart kvalitetama potrebnim za uspjeh u i donio mu smrt u šezdesetoj godini. untamed temperament could not stand his professors correcting his paintings painting excellence that earned him attack in Santa Barbara in 1989. His inozemstvu, zaputio se u Švicarsku pa Od prve izložbe u Dubrovniku 1954. such an honour. paintings were moved from the USA do smrti 1989. godine, izlagao je preko and suppressing his creativity. After his u London i, konačno, u SAD. Milovan to Dubrovnik. Although stolen during stotinu puta, najviše u inozemstvu return to Dubrovnik, he worked for Stanić je slikarska veličina koja zauzima Unlike the colourist style of painting the Croatian War of Independence, they – Parizu, Stockholmu, Frankfurtu, a time as a set designer at the Marin posebno mjesto na polju promocije that had been dominant in Dubrovnik were fortunately returned to Dubrovnik Hamburgu, Genevi, Los Angelesu, Držić Theatre, where he created a series hrvatske likovne scene u inozemstvu. for more than half a century, Milovan in 1994. An artist who made us all Ostvario je međunarodni ugled koji je San Franciscou, New Yorku, Londonu, of truly impressive sets for theatrical Tel Avivu, Milanu, Rimu i mnogim plays. He held his first major exhibition Stanić persevered in employing a tonal reconsider the value and context of ravan još jedino Meštrovićevom. Bio style of painting. Due to this particular Croatian visual art in the 1960s, 1970s je čovjek koji je nakon smrti Franka drugim gradovima. Izradio je stotine at Dubrovnik’s Sponza Palace in 1954, i stotine djela – slika u tehnici ulja na while his Zagreb exhibition in 1956 Street, the famous meeting place of fact, it is difficult to evaluate Stanić in and 1980, Milovan Stanić has left an Lloyda Wrighta dobio posao uređenja local circles. Fortunately, his work has indelible imprint of his existence and njegove crkve u Milwaukeeju koja je platnu, fresaka, vitraja, crteža i grafika. launched his meteoric international Dubrovnik artists. Stanić invited and Sa sigurnošću možemo tvrditi da je bio earned him greater international renown creativity. danas državni povijesni spomenik. Ako career with shows in Sweden, welcomed them all. There was always jedan od najplodnijih i najtalentiranijih than that of any other Dubrovnik artist, uzmemo samo podatak i činjenicu Switzerland, Germany, England, Italy somebody with him in his studio, it was dubrovačkih umjetnika. Radio je velike while his status on the world’s painting da je vjerska zajednica, koja je mogla and elsewhere. In the mid 1960s, where people talked, danced, drank projekte poput uređenja i oslikavanja scene can only be compared to that of platiti jednog od najvećih arhitekata Stanić realised he needed an agent if he and painted, and where the spirit of Banke za obnovu i razvoj u Frankfurtu wished his works to have top quality creativity combined with an exceptional Ivan Meštrović or Edo Murtić. Today, dvadesetog stoljeća, mogla angažirati (Bank für Gemeinwirtschaft), opremanja there is no place in Dubrovnik where bilo kojeg slikara na svijetu, odabrala presentation in the USA. He found an feeling of artistic freedom and lack of i oslikavanja kabarea u Linköpingu, agent, which resulted in his acclaimed restraint prevailed. Nowadays, such Stanić’s paintings are exhibited in baš Milovana Stanića, možemo vrlo oslikavanja katoličke crkve u Santa public, don’t bother to look for them. jasno iščitati vrijednost njegovoga exhibitions in New York, San Francisco, studios cannot be found in Dubrovnik. Barbari i spomenute grčke pravoslavne Stanić gathered many people around You would do better to look him up on rada. Da se njegovo slikarstvo cijenilo crkve u Milwaukeeju. Umro je u Santa the Internet. The paintings of Milovan u SAD-u svjedoči i podatak kako je him and gave a lot. He was very Barbari 1989. godine od srčanog udara. theatrical, liked to impress people, and Stanić are kept in private collections, 1976. godine bio pozvan da preuzme Njegove su slike prenešene iz SAD-a and it was Pissarro who allegedly ulogu predavača na Stanford University, there were few who could resist his u Dubrovnik i opljačkane tijekom charm. Stanić possessed all the qualities claimed that „the best recognition of jednom od najuglednijih svjetskih Domovinskoga rata, ali, srećom, i needed for achieving international your work is when someone buys your sveučilišta. Budući da tome zasigurno vraćene 1994. godine. Taj umjetnik, koji success. He went to Switzerland, painting“. nije doprinio njegov akademski status, nam je svima dao misliti o vrijednosti London, and eventually to the USA. As kojega zbog odlaska sa zagrebačke i kontekstu likovnog stvaralaštva u an outstanding painter, Milovan Stanić Stanić’s free, bon vivant and bohemian akademije nije niti imao, bez sumnje Hrvatskoj 1960-ih, 1970-ih i 1980-ih holds a special place in the international life style was detrimental to his health možemo zaključiti da tu čast treba godina, ostavio je neizbrisiv trag svoga and led to his untimely death at the pripisati njegovoj slikarskoj izvrsnosti. postojanja i stvaralaštva. promotion of Croatia’s visual art scene. His international prominence age of sixty. From his first exhibition

16 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 17 Napisao VjekoslaV Vierda Stećci

– nadgrobni spomenici na putu prema UNESCO-u

tećci su nadgrobni spomenici samo djelimično možemo kategorizirati primjer demokratičnosti i širine lokalnih nametnuli i kao nezaobilazan element za Okruglim stolovima slijedilo je otvaranje iz Srednjega vijeka. U literaturi dekoracije u svjetovne i religiozne. Tu zajednica, naime nisu rijetki slučajevi razvoj kulturnog turizma, ovo posebno i prigodne izložbe fotografija Stazama Sse spominje XII. stoljeće kao je narodni genije pokazao svu raskoš da je pojedini stećak „pokrivao“ više stoga što se neki od najreprezentativnijih stećaka (autora fotografija g. Zorana početak pojavljivanja stećaka, najviše seoskog vjerovanja i predrasuda, pokopanih osoba odnosno grobova, primjeraka nalaze u blizini turističkih Marinovića i autorice postava gđe. Ivone ih je datirano u XIV. i XV. stoljeće, dok bajke, mita i sna, straha i nade, ali i a mogao se, i to se doista događalo, središta ( Dubrovnika i dubrovačke Michl). Osim u navedenim gradovima pomalo nestaju u XVI. stoljeću. Stećci svakodnevice u prikazima seoskog koristiti i višekratno. rivijere, Međugorja, Žabljaka ). izložba je bila organizirana u Bruxellesu su po svojoj brojnosti i rasprostranjenosti života i običaja, lova, godišnjih doba, Potencijal je prepoznat i od lokalnih i Prijepolju, a nakon „povratka“ u doista globalno rijedak fenomen – prikaze životinja i biljaka, nebeskih U XIX. stoljeću postaju stećci objekt zajednica kao i od međunarodnih pa je Dubrovnik organizirat će se izložbe procjenjuje se da ih ima preko 70.000 na tijela i svega drugog što se onodobnom znanstvenih istraživanja, ali slobodni tako DUNEA – Regionalna razvojna diljem naše Županije. Važno je naglasiti preko 3.300 lokaliteta. umjetniku činilo relevantnim ili mu je smo reći da je upravo današnje doba agencija Dubrovačko-neretvanske da je uspostavljena i Staza stećaka – Stećci su kulturološki fenomen zapadnog tako bilo naručeno. Neki stećci imaju i vrijeme stvarnog prepoznavanja i županije bila nositeljica projekta Her. kulturno-turistička ruta koja obuhvaća Balkana, nalazimo ih u Hrvatskoj, natpise napisane bosančicom. valorizacije ovog fenomena. Izvornost, Cul: Valorizacija kulturne baštine 32 lokaliteta (uključivo i one na Crnoj Gori, Srbiji i ( ponajviše ) u Bosni specifičnost i vrijednost stećaka srednjovjekovnih stećaka na zapadnom tentativnoj listi za UNESCO). Sljedeći i Hercegovini. Stećci su svojim brojem, Stećci su izrađivani od vapnenca - prepoznata je i na svjetskoj razini Balkanu. U sklopu projekta izrađena je korak je osnivanje visitors centara za disperzijom po cijeloj regiji, a ponajviše regionalno najraširenijeg materijala, u i upravo su u tjeku aktivnosti oko Strategija očuvanja stećaka te posebno poklonike stećaka u svim uključenim svojom interkonfesionalnošću europska postojećim ili u, za tu namjenu posebno uvrštavanja stećaka na Listu svjetske obrađeni lokaliteti Novakovo greblje državama. Nije pretjerano očekivati da specifičnost. organiziranim, kamenolomima, a kako baštine UNESCO-a. (Čepikuće u Dubrovačkom primorju), će se u bližoj budućnosti stećci afirmirati je riječ o primjercima koji imaju težinu i Bijača (pokraj Ljubuškog u BiH), ne samo kao kulturno-povijesni Začudno su lijepi, a stari majstori koji su više tisuća kilograma uglavnom su radi U turističkom smislu stećci su prava Grčko groblje (Prijepolje u Srbiji) i spomenici vrhunske vrijednosti, nego će ih izrađivali i koji sebe nazivaju kovači lakšeg transporta mjesta izrade bila ili blagodat, kako za lokalne zajednice u Marina šuma (Pljevlja u Crnoj Gori). postati i važan turistički brand. nisu robovali niti veličini, niti formi, uz ceste ili uz sama groblja. kojima se nalaze, tako i za turističke Isto tako održani su okrugli stolovi na kao ni vrsti dekoracija. Stoga imamo Kao nadgrobni spomenici u pravilu su profesionalce. Svojim neospornim temuValorizacija stećaka u turizmu i to stećke različitih veličina i oblika, a postavljani u grupama i istovremeno su umjetničkim kvalitetama stećci su se u Dubrovniku, Ljubuškom i Pljevljima.

18 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 19 By VjekoslaV Vierda Stećci

– Tombstones on Their Way to UNESCO

tećci are medieval tombstones. fairy-tales, myths, dreams, fears and can freely say that today is the time of in Dubrovačko Primorje), Bijača (near The records date their appearance hopes, but also of everyday life such true recognition and valorisation of this Ljubuško, Bosnia and Herzegovina), Sto the beginning of the 12th as the depiction of country life and phenomenon. The originality of stećci as Grčko Groblje (Prijepolje, Serbia) and century. The majority of stećci originated customs, the hunt, the seasons, animals, well as their uniqueness and value have Marina Šuma (Pljevlja, Montenegro). A in the 14th and 15th centuries, and plants, celestial bodies and everything been recognised worldwide. Currently, number of round tables were organised they began to slowly disappear in else the then artist either believed to be there is intense activity aimed at on the theme The Valorisation of Stećci the 16th century. Judging by their of relevance, or was commissioned to including stećci in the UNESCO World in Tourism in Dubrovnik, Ljubuško and number and spread, stećci are indeed depict. On some of the stećci there are Heritage List. Pljevlja. The round tables were followed a rare phenomenon globally. It has also inscriptions written in the so-called by an exhibition of photographs on the been estimated that more than 70.000 bosančica (Bosnian Cyrillic alphabet). In the tourist sense, stećci are a true same subject entitled On the Stećci Route of them lie scattered in more than blessing for both the communities and staged by Ivone Michl, featuring 3.300 localities. As a culturological Stećci were made of limestone - the in which they are located and for photographs by Zoran Marinović. In phenomenon of the Western Balkans, most widespread material in the region tourist professionals. Thanks to their addition to the aforementioned cities, stećci can be found in Croatia, - in the existing quarries or in those indisputable artistic qualities, stećci have the exhibition was presented in Brussels Montenegro, Serbia and (mostly) in started for that particular purpose. In also become an unmissable element in and Prijepolje, and, after its return to Bosnia and Herzegovina. Owing to their view of the fact that some specimens the development of cultural tourism, Dubrovnik, the exhibition will be shown number, their dispersion throughout weighed several thousand kilograms, particularly because some of their all over the Dubrovnik-Neretva County. the region, and most of all to their the places where stećci were made were most representative examples are interconfessional background, stećci are a usually in close proximity to roads located in close proximity to tourist It is worth mentioning that a Stećci specifically European phenomenon. or cemeteries in order to facilitate centres (Dubrovnik and its Riviera, Route has been established too. This transport. Međugorje, Žabljak). This potential cultural and tourist route includes 32 Stećci are incredibly beautiful, and the As a rule, stećci were put up as has likewise been recognised by both localities (including those nominated old masters who made them and called tombstones in groups, being at the same local and international communities. for the UNESCO List). The next step themselves stone masons were not time an example of democracy and the Thus, DUNEA (Regional Development is the founding of visitor centres for bound by either size, form or type of local community’s openness. Namely, a Agency for the Dubrovnik-Neretva stećci fans in all the countries involved. decoration. Thus, we nowadays find single stećak often happened to „cover“ County) headed the Her.Cul Project: The We believe that it is not too much to stećci in a variety of sizes and shapes, several buried people, i.e., graves, and Valorisation of the Cultural Heritage of the expect that in the near future stećci will while their decorative motifs can only there were also cases where the same Medieval Stećci in the Western Balkans. The be acknowledged not only as top quality partially be classified into secular and stećak was used several times. project included plans for the Strategy cultural and historical monuments, religious categories. This is where for the preservation of stećci. The but that they will also become a major the folk genius displayed the full In the 19th century, stećci became the localities that were targeted in particular tourist brand. magnificence of rural beliefs, prejudices, object of scientific research, however, we included Novakovo Greblje (Čepikuće

20 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 21 Napisao / By iVaN VigjeN svom relativno kratkom posebice trgujući suknom, dodatno se do 1468. godine, da bi 1469. (u godini životu od oko 53 godine obogativši i stekavši uz to ugled svojom svoje smrti) bio imenovan upraviteljem U dubrovački je trgovac, diplomatskom vještinom i erudicijom. S kovnice u gradu L’Aquili. Benedikt diplomat i ekonomski teoretičar obzirom da je već njegov otac uspješno Benedikt Kotruljević (Kotrulj, Kotruljić, trgovao u Napulju i on se odlučio No, iako njegov životopis može – renesansni velikan ekonomske misli Benedetto Cotrugli) zauzimao sam vrh preseliti onamo, u jedan od najvećih poslužiti kao scenarij za uzbudljiv tadašnje dubrovačke trgovine i uživao europskih gradova. Upravo sredinom film, Kotruljević nije poznat po iznimno povjerenje državne uprave 15. stoljeća, za vladanja kralja Alfonsa svome avanturističkome životu već Dubrovačke Republike i Napuljskoga Aragonskoga, Napulj je bio jedno po znamenitome djelu o umijeću Kraljevstva. Tijekom njegovoga života od renesansnih središta i metropola trgovanja, tiskanome pod naslovom Kotruljević došlo je do značajnih geopolitičkih gospodarski i kulturno najmoćnije Della mercatura e del mercante perfetto zbivanja na Mediteranu i Balkanu, i države zapadnoga Mediterana – i uz (O trgovini i savršenom trgovcu, iako je do velikih dostignuća renesanse, a i za izvorni naslov bio Libro del arte della Kotruljevića možemo reći da odgovara mercatura)koje je dovršio 1458. godine u definiciji čovjeka renesansne širine. Osim kaštelu Serpico kamo se bio sklonio od svoga interesa za konkretne gospodarske epidemije kuge koja je harala Napuljem. djelatnosti, trgovinu i pomorstvo, Riječ je o najstarijemu poznatom djelu izgradio se u teoretičara ekonomije i kao o poduzetničkom umijeću te teoriji pravi čovjek humanizma on u svojim knjigovodstva i bilanciranja u kojemu djelima stavlja težište na pojedinca, je na osnovi iskustva vješto sažeo duh odnosno na slobodnoga poduzetnika i ekonomije svojega doba, postavši njegov posao. jednom od važnih ličnosti u povijesti europske gospodarske misli.Djelo je, Kotruljević potječe iz vrlo uspješne i nažalost, ostalo u rukopisu 115. godina, bogate trgovačke obitelji čiji su se preci iako je među zainteresiranim čitačima i u 14. stoljeću u Dubrovnik doselili iz stručnjacima očito kružilo u rukopisima, susjednoga Kotora. Njegov je otac Jakov a tiskano je, napokon, tek 1573. godine posjedovao mnošto nekretnina diljem u Veneciji, zalaganjem poznatoga Dubrovačke Republike te tri kuće u to države vrlo sklone Dubrovčanima. renesansnoga filozofa Frane Petrića Gradu i jednu u Gružu. Odmalena se Od 1448. do 1453. godine Kotruljević (Francesco Patrizi) koji je djelu izmijenio učio trgovačkim poslovima uz svoga svoje poslove najvjerojatnije vodi iz dva naslov i skratio pojedine dijelove.Da je oca, osnovnu izobrazbu stekao je u grada, iz Napulja i iz Dubrovnika, ali Kotruljevićevo djelo bilo otprije poznato rodnom gradu, a studiranje filozofije od početka 1453.definitivno preseljava ne samo u Dubrovniku nego i u Italiji i prava započeo je, čini se, na nekom u Napulj gdje sve do smrti obitava svjedoče sačuvani rukopisi od kojih talijanskom sveučilištu. Nakon očeve sa svojom brojnom obitelji. Tamo će su dva pronađena u Firenci: jedan iz smrti 1436. vratio se u Dubrovnik i ostvariti uspješnu karijeru poznatog 1485. godine i drugi koji je nepotpun, sasvim se posvetio trgovini putujući trgovca i poduzetnika, diplomata i te treći koji je pronađen na Malti i koji radi trgovačkih poslova, katkad i kao visokoga državnog činovnika. Senat je izvorniku svakako najbliži, a prepisao dubrovački izaslanik, po najvažnijim Dubrovačke Republike imenovat će ga je 1475. dubrovački trgovac Marin gradovima Italije, južne Španjolske ga 1458. za dubrovačkoga generalnog Rafaelov. i Balkana. Boravio je tako i trgovao konzula u Napulju, a za vrijeme u Barceloni, Napulju, Foggiji, napuljskih kraljeva Alfonsa i Ferdinanda Pozivajući se na Ciceronovo stajalište Veneciji, Firenci, Genovi, Brindisiju, bit će u njihovoj diplomatskoj službi da su trgovci snaga države, Kotruljević Manfredoniji, Anconi, Senju, a na svojim i obavljat će diplomatske poslove u ističe da je trgovina vrlo zahtjevan posao je trgovačkim putovanjima boravio i u Ugarskoj. Napuljski kraljevi imali su te „da je teže stvoriti trgovca negoli suca.“ zemljama u dubrovačkom zaleđu (Hum, u njega veliko povjerenje imenujući ga Upravo zbog razumijevanja težine i Bosna, Srbija, Bugarska), sjevernoj Africi vitezom, savjetnikom i povjerenikom, a zahtjevnosti trgovačkoga poziva i želeći te na Siciliji.U žestokoj konkurenciji, kruna uspjeha i priznanja ukazana mu pomoći trgovcima, ali i ostalima, u tada iznimno žive trgovine zapadnoga je imenovanjem na iznimno odgovornu razumijevanju tako važne gospodarske Mediterana, Kotruljević je očito bio funkciju upravitelja napuljske kraljevske grane, on piše svoju knjigu o trgovini nenadmašno okretan i uspješan, kovnice novca koju je vodio od 1460. i trgovcu, dijeleći je na četiri knjige.

22 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 23 U prvoj knjizi raspravlja o porijeklu, kakva su dotad uživali samo plemići. kritičnije ljude, rafiniranije od većine osnovama i oblicima trgovine, u drugoj Kotruljević u prvom poglavlju treće njihovih sugrađana, pa stoga nije o tome kako se trgovac treba držati knjige svoga traktata (naslovljenim neobično da u njihovim kućama radna prema vjeri i bogoštovlju, u trećoj o O trgovčevu zvanju i dostojanstvu) ističe: soba i knjižnica (studiolo) zauzimaju Benedikt trgovčevim moralnim i društvenim „Korist, probitak i spas države u velikoj važno mjesto te da se oni posvećuju vrlinama, a u četvrtoj o trgovčevu mjeri dolaze od trgovaca, pri čemu uvijek teoriji gradske i ladanjske arhitekture. – A Great Renaissance Man upravljanju kućom i kućnom zajednicom mislimo na slavnoga trgovca kojega smo Kotruljevićevo je djelo stoga izvor with an Economic turn of Mind te o gospodarenju.Iako se u svome uzdigli i pohvalili u ovom našem djelu, ne samo za proučavanje povijesti djelu bavi brojnim i raznovrsnim a ne na prosta i obična trgovca.“Česta ekonomske i filozofske misli, već i pitanjima na najveći su odjek naišla putovanja, brojni susreti i poznanstva, izvor za poznavanje teorije i prakse Kotruljevićeva stajališta i upute iz 13. razmjene mišljenja i stečena znanja dubrovačke renesansne arhitekture i Kotruljević poglavlja prve knjige koje govori o formirali su trgovce kao otvorenije i kulture življenja. urednom vođenju poslovnih knjiga u uring his relatively short life cities of Italy, southern Spain and the their diplomat in Hungary. Having trgovini. U njemu je opisao dvostavno of 53 years, the Dubrovnik Balkans. He thus stayed and traded great trust in him, the Neapolitan kings knjigovodstvo kao nužan instrument za Dmerchant, diplomat and in Barcelona, Naples, Foggia, Venice, knighted Kotruljević and appointed him analizu trgovačkoga poslovanja, naglasio economic theoretician Benedikt Florence, Genoa, Brindisi, Manfredonia, their adviser and commissioner. The da bi dobar trgovac morao voditi tri Kotruljević (Kotrulj, Kotruljić, Ancona and Senj. On his business peak of Kotruljević’s success was his knjige (podsjetnik, dnevnik i glavnu Benedetto Cotrugli) was a leading figure travels he also sojourned in countries appointment to the highly responsible knjigu) te donio više praktičnih i etičkih in Dubrovnik commerce at the time, in the Dubrovnik Hinterland (Hum, post of head of the Neapolitan Royal savjeta. Tu je i prvi upotrijebio sintagmu who enjoyed the special trust of both Bosnia, Serbia, Bulgaria), North Africa Mint, where he served from 1460 to „dvostruke stavke“ iz koje se kasnije the Dubrovnik Republic authorities and Sicily. Facing savage competition 1468. In the year of his death, 1469, razvio pojam partita doppia, dvostavno and the Kingdom of Naples. In the in the then extremely dynamic trading Kotruljević was appointed as head of the knjigovodstvo. Bilo bi, međutim, course of his life, major geographical atmosphere of the West Mediterranean, mint in the city of L’Aquila. and political events occurred in the Kotruljević was obviously extremely pretjerano reći da je Kotruljević Although his biography could be used Mediterranean and the Balkans, as well dexterous and successful, particularly in izumio dvostavno knjigovodstvo, ali for a thriller film, Kotruljević is not as great Renaissance achievements, the cloth trade, and increased his wealth je prvi u svijetu shvatio njegovo pravo famous for his adventurous life, but and we can also apply the definition of and esteem thanks to his diplomatic for his well-known work on the art značenje kao neophodnog instrumenta a man of Renaissance proportions to skill and erudition. In view of the fact of trade, printed under the title Della za ekonomsku analizu poslovanja Kotruljević. In addition to his interest that his father had run a successful mercatura e del mercante perfetto (On Trade trgovca, a ta je njegova ideja valjana in concrete economic activities, trade business in Naples, one of Europe’s and the Perfect Tradesman). However, i danas.Nažalost, zahvaljujući tome and shipping, Kotruljević became an largest cities at the time, Benedikt the book’s original title was Libro del da je mu je djelo tiskano tek stoljeće economic theoretician, who, in his works Kotruljević decided to also move there. arte della mercatura that Kotruljević th nakon smrti Kotruljević čak punih 400 - as a true humanist - put the emphasis It was precisely in the mid 15 century, completed in 1458 at Serpico Castle, godina nije imao zasluženo mjesto u on the individual, that is to say, the free during the rule of Alfonso of Aragon, where he hid from an epidemic of the povijesti računovodstvene i ekonomske entrepreneur and his work. that Naples became one of the centres of plague which was raging in Naples. misli. Naime, naslov prvog prikazivača Kotruljević stemmed from a very the Renaissance and the economic and It is the oldest known work on the art dvostavnoga knjigovodstva nije imao naš successful and rich merchant family cultural metropolis of the most powerful of entrepreneurship and the theory of state of the Western Mediterranean, Kotruljević, već renesansni matematičar whose ancestors moved to Dubrovnik balance of accounts in which he - on the which happened to be particularly Luca Pacioli, franjevac koji je 79. from nearby Kotor in the 14th century. basis of his own experience - ingeniously well-disposed towards the people godina prije tiskanja Kotruljevićeve His father Jakov possessed many summarized the spirit of the economy of of Dubrovnik. From 1448 to 1453, properties all over the Dubrovnik his own time, having become one of the knjige o umijeću trgovanja tiskao svoju Kotruljević most likely ran his business Republic, three houses in the city major figures in the history of European knjigu posvećenu, između ostaloga, i from both Naples and Dubrovnik. and one in Gruž. At an early age, economic thought. Unfortunately, the dvostavnom knjigovodstvu. However, in early 1453, he definitely Kotruljević learned about trade work remained as a manuscript for 115 moved to Naples, where he lived affairs from his father. He acquired years, although it apparently circled Čitajući njegovo djelo, vidimo da with his huge family until his death. an elementary education in his native in handwritten form among interested There, he made a successful career as se dubrovački trgovac 15. stoljeća city, and apparently began to study readers and experts. The book was only a renowned merchant, entrepreneur, razlikuje od srednjovjekovnoga trgovca i philosophy and law at an Italian finally printed in 1573 in Venice thanks diplomat and high-ranking civil servant. prerasta u lik svestranog i obrazovanog university. After his father’s death to the renowned renaissance philosopher In 1458, the Dubrovnik Republic Senate renesansnog trgovca.Trgovci renesanse in 1436, Kotruljević returned to Frano Petrić (Francesco Patrizi), who appointed him as Dubrovnik’s consul razlikuju se i po znatnijem investiranju Dubrovnik and dedicated himself changed the book’s title and shortened general to Naples, whilst during the kapitala u nekretnine, u gradske kuće entirely to trade, travelling because several of its sections. That Kotruljević’s rules of the Neapolitan kings Alfonso i u izvangradske rezidencije. Njima of his trade affairs - and sometimes work was already well-known not and Ferdinand, Kotruljević served as stječu ugled, a pružaju im i zadovoljstva as a Dubrovnik envoy - to the major only in Dubrovnik but also in Italy is

24 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 25 a necessary instrument for the economic analysis of a merchant’s business, and this idea of his is still relevant nowadays. Unfortunately, owing to the fact that his book was printed only a century after his death, Kotruljević was not granted his rightful place in the history of bookkeeping and economic thought for fully 400 years. Namely, the title of the introducer of double-entry bookkeeping was not attributed to Benedikt Kotruljević, but to the renaissance mathematician and Franciscan monk Luca Pacioli who - 79 years before the printing of Kotruljević’s book on the art of trade - printed his book on, among other topics, double-entry bookkeeping. On the basis of Kotruljević’s book, we can conclude that the 15th century Dubrovnik merchant is different from the medieval merchant, and that he grows into a versatile and well-educated renaissance merchant. Renaissance merchants are also different for their larger investments in property, city houses and out-of-city residences, which brought them prestige, as well as pleasure that had up to then been reserved only for noblemen. In the confirmed by his preserved manuscripts, and divine worship; the third volume first chapter of the third volume of two of which were discovered in is about the merchant’s moral and his treatise entitled On The Merchant’s Florence: one from 1485 and a second, social virtues; while the fourth is about Calling and Dignity, Kotruljević claims: incomplete one; as well as a third the merchant’s management of his „The welfare, prosperity and salvation manuscript discovered in Malta which household and family, as well as about of a state mainly come from merchants, is definitely the closest to the original thrift. Although Kotruljević dealt with whereby we always think of the glorious and which was copied by the Dubrovnik numerous and varied questions in his merchant whom we extolled and praised merchant Marin Rafaelov in 1475. work, the most widely received were in this book, and not of the common and Referring to Cicero’s statement that his standpoints and instructions from ordinary tradesman.“ Frequent travels, merchants are the strength of a state, Volume 1, Chapter 13, on accurate numerous meetings and acquaintances, Kotruljević pointed out that trade bookkeeping in trade. In it, Kotruljević exchange of thoughts and acquired was challenging work indeed and that described double-entry bookkeeping as knowledge made merchants into more „it is more difficult to create a merchant a necessary instrument for the analysis open and critical people who were more than a judge“. It was for the purpose of trade. He accentuated that a good refined than the majority of their fellow of understanding the complexity merchant should keep three books citizens. It is thus not surprising that and high demands of the mercantile (the memo, the journal and the main an important place in their homes was profession, and because of his wish to book), and gave much practical and reserved for a study and library (studiolo), help both merchants and those willing ethical advice. Kotruljević was also the and that they were dedicated to the to understand such an important branch first to use the term “double-entry”, theory of city- and summer-residence of the economy, that Kotruljević wrote from which the term partita doppia, architecture. Therefore, Kotruljević’s his book on trade and merchants, which double-entry bookkeeping, developed work is not merely a source for the is divided into four volumes. The first later on. However, it would be an study of the history of economic and volume is about the origin, foundations exaggeration to claim that Kotruljević philosophical thought, but also a and forms of trade; the second includes invented double-entry bookkeeping. source for understanding the theory instructions on the recommendable He was, nevertheless, the first in the and practice of Dubrovnik renaissance stance of a merchant towards religion world to understand its real meaning as architecture and culture of living.

26 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. Napisao Đivo Bašić Ragusii, in portu Ragusii), do gradnje i galijuna visoko poštovani majstori iz U djelu istog autora “Ukroćena velikog brodogradilišta u Gružu Dubrovnika, Portugala i Engleske”. goropadnica” (“The taming of the (1526.), još u XIV. stoljeću postojala Fernand Braudel, taj veliki Shrew”) i još nekim također se javlja su brodogradilišta u Stonu, te na “meštar” strukturalizma, za utjecaj taj termin. “Argosy” u biti znači obližnjim otocima Lopudu, Šipanu dubrovačkog pomorstva kaže: “Tirensko “dubrovačka lađa”. Riječ je nastala (Suđurađ) i Koločepu (Kalamoti). Malo bi more bilo gotovo dubrovačko jezero od talijanskog Ragusea, tj. una (nave) vijeće Dubrovačke Republike zabranilo kad ne bi bilo prisutnosti Marsejaca Ragusea, a Oxfordski rječnik donosi je brodograditeljima napuštanje (prvo skromne, koja se povećava nakon inačice: ragasye, arguse, argose, rhaguse, dubrovačkog područja poradi odlaska 1570-ih) [...]”. ragosie, argosea, argosey, argozee, argosie, u inozemstvo glede gradnje ili Nikola Sagri (Sagrojević) u argosy. U The Encyclopaedia Britannica, popravljanja brodova jer je nedostatak djelu “Razlaganja o promjeni plime (XIV. izdanje, London, 1929, str. 336), brodograditelja u Gružu mogao i oseke Zapadnog oceanskog mora” pod “Argosy” stoji: “Izvorni naziv za pogodovati učestalijem angažiranju (“Ragionamenti sopra la varietà de i flussi karaku ili trgovački brod iz Dubrovnika, npr. brodogradilišta u Korčuli i et riflussi del Mare Oceano Occidentale”, kao i brod iz ostalih jadranskih luka, a tamošnjim narudžbama Dubrovčana za Venezia, 1574, str. 35-37), zapisuje da koji se sada upotrebljava u pjesništvu za izgrađivanjem, čišćenjem ili popravkom su dubrovački brodovi “najčvršći na bilo koji brod što nosi bogatu robu”. Od brodova, pa je tako postojala i zabrana svijetu” i da su izgrađeni od najbolje inačica romanskih naziva za Dubrovnik odlaska iz Dubrovačke Republike drvene građe (“Le vostre navi sono postoji Argus, a za stanovnike Araguses, brodograditeljima (proti, meštri, più forti di tutte l’ altre del mondo e di kako to donosi mletački kroničar Martin kalafati) koja se ponovno javlja i 1772. miglior legname”), tako da na njima da Canal u kronici na francuskom jeziku godine u svrhu zaštite i prosperiteta nije potrebno i po 10 godina obavljati (Cronique des Veneciens, 1267.-1275.). domaće brodogradnje. popravke podmorskog dijela korita Websterov New World Dictionary (1986.) Samuel Pepys (1633.-1703.) broda, dok su takvi popravci na drugim za “argosy, argosies” donosi doslovno: u svom “Dnevniku” (The Diary) za brodovima znatno učestaliji. “[earlier ragusy < (nave) Ragusea, (vessel

VELIKI DUBROVAČKI KARAKUN U LOPUDSKOJ LUCI. DETALJ 11. siječnja 1662. kaže: “(...) kako u U djelu Williama Shakespearea of) Ragusa]”, te također “a large ship, SA SLIKE N. BOŽIDAREVIĆA IZ CRKVE DOMINIKANACA, 1513. Dubrovačkoj kneževini na Jadranskom KOPIJA AKAD. SLIKARA I. DULČIĆA. “Mletački trgovac” (“The Merchant of especially a merchant ship; a fleet of moru (državi koja je mala, ali kažu Venice”), na samom početku drame, such ships”. DUBROVNIK CARRACKOON “ARGOSY” IN THE PORT OF LOPUD, 1513. COPY FROM THE PAINTING BY N. BOŽIDAREVIĆ, starija nego Venecija, i zvana majka ponosite Antonijeve galije plove po svim DOMINICAN CHURCH. THE NAME ARGOSY IS THOUGHT TO BE Venecije) i Turci leže oko nje - kako A CORRUPTION OF RAGUSA (THE ROMAN NAME FOR THE CITY morima svijeta: OF DUBROVNIK) WHICH WAS SPELLED ARAGOUSE IN 16TH mijenjaju sve časnike straže svakih 24 CENTURY ENGLISH. SHAKESPEARE USED “ARGOSY” IN HIS DRAMAS “THE MERCHANT OF VENICE” AND “THE TAMING OF sata zbog straha od urote tako da nitko “[…] gdje raguške vam lađe veličajno Brodo- THE SHREW”. ne zna tko će noćas biti zapovjednik jedre, straže.” Mjeritelj dubrovačkog područja i k’o gospoda ili bogati građani u travnju 1804., poručnik Sponville, na vodi, kao da su morske svečanosti, za Dubrovačku Republiku kaže da odozgo gledaju brodice trgovačke graditelji su podanici ove državice najbolji što im se klanjaju i poštuju ih smjerno nisu smjeli napuštati Dubrovačku Republiku pomorci na Jadranu. Njihovo poštenje i kad mimo njih na tkanim krilima ispravnost čine da im sve nacije Europe prolete.” povjeravaju svoje pa i najvrjednije ubrovnik je, zastave treća na svijetu (iza Španjolske i zapadnim zemljama javljaju se tek u brodske terete. (“There, where your a r g o s i e s with po nekim Nizozemske). XVII. i XVIII. stoljeću. U siječnju 1390. Bartolomeo Crescentio u djelu portly sail, istraživačima, Još od najkasnije 1312. donesen je proglas o subvencioniraju Nautica Mediterranea (Roma, 1602, str. Like signiors and rich burghers on the D DUBROVAČKI BRODOVI POČETKOM XVI. ST. ODLJEV U GIPSU u domeni pomorstva u XIV. stoljeću u Dubrovniku se vršio nadzor nad gradnje velikih brodova uz točno 4-5) kaže: “...od stručnjaka i majstora flood, PO ORIGINALU NA KUĆI RESTI U DUBROVNIKU. bio treći na Sredozemlju (iza Genove i najvišom dopuštenom razinom (mjerom) naznačene uvjete i obveze vlasnika za galijune najbrojniji, a valjda i Or, as it were, the pageants of the sea, DUBROVNIK SHIPS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE 16TH Venecije). U XVI. stoljeću Dubrovačka krcanja brodskog tereta, a posebni izgrađenog broda. CENTURY. CAST IN PLASTER AFTER THE ORIGINAL IN THE najsposobniji su u ovom [Sredozemnom] Do overpeer the petty traffickers, HOUSE OF RESTI IN DUBROVNIK. Republika je prva na Sredozemlju, zakon o crti najvećeg dopuštenog Osim glavnog brodogradilišta moru Dubrovčani”, a Pantero Pantera u That curtsy to them, do them reverence, te po prekooceanskim trgovačkim krcanja donesen je 1361. (De oneratione u staroj luci Dubrovnika (povijesnoj djelu L’Armata Navale (Roma, 1614, str. As they fly by them with thir woven jedrenjacima dubrovačke i strane navigiorum fienda). Slični zakoni u jezgri, Gradu - in portu interiori 66) zapisuje: “...dok su za gradnju nava wings.”)

28 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 29 By Đivo Bašić Since at least 1312, Dubrovnik changed every 24 hours because of the ships were considerably more frequent. controlled the maximum permitted fear of conspiracy, so that nobody knows level of loading cargo, whilst a special who the guard commander will be In the very beginning of William law on the maximum allowed loading that night.“ In April 1804, Lieutenant Shakespeare’s The Merchant of Venice, line was passed in 1361. (De oneratione Sponville, an inspector of the Dubrovnik Antonio’s proud galleys sail on all the navigiorum fienda). Similar laws only area said of the Dubrovnik Republic seas of the world: appeared in western countries in the that the subjects of this small state were 17th and 18th centuries. In January the best seamen on the Adriatic. Thanks “There, where your a r g o s i e s with 1390, a proclamation on subsidizing the to their honesty and right-mindedness, portly sail, construction of large ships was issued, all European nations entrusted them Like signiors and rich burghers on the precisely defining the requirements with their own as well as with the most flood, and obligations of the owner of the precious ship cargoes. Or, as it were, the pageants of the sea, constructed ship. Do overpeer the petty traffickers, In his work Nautica Mediterranea That curtsy to them, do them reverence, In addition to the main shipyard in (Roma, 1602, pages 4-5), Bartolomeo As they fly by them with their woven Dubrovnik’s old port (the Old City - in Crescentio claims: “... The most wings.” portu interiori Ragusii, in portu Ragusii) - numerous, and probably the most right up to the construction of a large skilled shipwrights and craftsmen for In Shakespeare’s play The Taming of shipyard in Gruž (1526) - shipyards galleons in this (Mediterranean) sea are the Shrew, as well in some others, this already existed in Ston, as well as on those from Dubrovnik”, while Pantero term repeatedly appears. „Argosy“ the nearby islands of Lopud, Šipan Pantera in his work L’Armata Navale actually means „a Dubrovnik ship“. (Suđurađ) and Koločep (Kalamota) in (Rome, 1614, page 66) wrote: “... the The word derived from the Italian the 14th century. The Minor Council artisans of Dubrovnik, Portugal and term Ragusea, i.e., una (nave) Ragusea, of the Dubrovnik Republic forbade England were highly esteemed builders while the Oxford Dictionary offers the shipbuilders to leave the Dubrovnik of navas and galleons.“ following synonyms: ragasye, arguse, area for the purpose of building or argose, rhaguse, ragosie, argosea, argosey, repairing ships abroad, because the The great „master“ of structuralism, argozee, argosie, argosy. According to The shortage of shipbuilders in Gruž could Fernand Braudel, describes the Encyclopaedia Britannica, (XIV Edition, lead to the more frequent engagement influence of Dubrovnik’s seamanship in London, 1929, page 336), “Argosy” is of, for instance, the rival shipyard in the following words: “ The Tyrrhenian defined as: “The original name of a Korčula, and endanger the Dubrovnik Sea would almost be a Dubrovnik lake if carrack, or merchant ship of Dubrovnik, shipbuilders’ commissions to build, clean it weren’t for the presence of the men of or of other Adriatic ports, which is now or repair their local ships. Therefore, Marseille (modest at first, and increasing poetically used for any ship carrying there was a ban prohibiting shipbuilders after the 1570s) [...]”. a rich cargo“. The Roman versions of (foremen, artisans, shipwrights) from the name of Dubrovnik include Argus, leaving the Dubrovnik Republic, which In his work entitled Commentary on while its residents are called Araguses, reappeared in 1772 for the purpose the Change of High and Low Tide in the as explained by the Venetian chronicler DUBROVAČKI GALIJUN OKO 1550., IZ SAMOSTANA FRANJEVACA U SLANOME. ccording to some researchers, of protecting and promoting the local Western Ocean Sea (Ragionamenti sopra la Martin da Canal in his chronicle in the Dubrovnik - in the sphere of shipbuilding industry. varietà de i flussi et riflussi del Mare Oceano French language (Cronique des Veneciens, DUBROVNIK GALLEON FROM ABOUT 1550, a IN THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF SLANO. 14th century shipping - was third in Occidentale, Venice, 1574, pages 35-37), 1267-1275). In Webster’s New World Ship- importance in the Mediterranean (after On 11 January 1662, Samuel Pepys Nikola Sagri (Sagrojević) claimed the Dictionary (1986) the word “argosy, Genoa and Venice). In the 16th century, (1633-1703) wrote the following in his Dubrovnik ships to be „the most solid argosies” is defined in the following the Dubrovnik Republic was first in the Diary: “(...) In the Dubrovnik Dukedom in the world“ and made of the finest way: “[earlier ragusy < (nave) Ragusea, builders Mediterranean and - where ocean-going - situated on the Adriatic sea (the state timber (Le vostre navi sono più forti di tutte (vessel of) Ragusa]”; and also as “a large merchant sailing ships are concerned, which is small, but allegedly older than l’ altre del mondo e di miglior legname). ship, especially a merchant ship; a fleet were not allowed to leave the under both Dubrovnik- and foreign Venice and therefore called Venice’s Thus, the submerged part of their hull of such ships”. flags - the third in the world (behind mother) and surrounded by Turkish required no repairing for even 10 years, Dubrovnik Republic Spain and the Netherlands). lands - all officers of the guard are while repairs of a similar kind on other

30 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 31 Napisao vido peručić Svjetski tenor iz Cavtata

a večer, 10. veljače 1916. Publika u prepunoj dvorani Kraljevske poput , Alfreda iz opere La Traviata kako bi bio spreman na ovaj odlučan godine, bila je posebna i vrlo saske dvorske opere Dresden znatiželjno Giuseppe Verdija, Cania iz opere korak. Audiciju je uspješno prošao tako Tznačajna ne samo za povijest je očekivala početak opere. Željeli Pagliacci Rugera Leoncavalla, Otella da mu je ponuđen ugovor na 7 godina dresdenske operne kuće, već i za jednog su vidjeti i čuti to novo pompozno iz istoimene opere Giuseppe Verdija, (dvije godine pripremanja i pet godina mladog, do tada širokoj opernoj publici, najavljivano ime koje će biti, kako se Turiddu iz opere Cavalleria Rusticana aktivnog nastupanja). Međutim, ratne nepoznatog tenora. Njegovo ime bilo pričalo, poseban dragulj miljea tenora. Pietra Mascagnia, Rodolfa iz opere prilike u Europi (Prvi svjetski rat) učinile je Martino „Tino“ Pattiera. Tjednima La Boheme Giacoma Puccinija, Don su svoje. Tino se morao javiti u Salzburg Carlosa iz opere Don Carlos Giuseppe na odsluženje vojnog roka. prije dugo najavljivane premijere Zavjesa se podigla i operna čarolija je Verdija, Maria Cavaradossija iz opere Verdijevog „Trubadura“, Dresdenom su započela. Na prvi pogled je izgledalo Tosca Giacoma Puccinija, Il Duca di Kako smo naveli, prva mu je uloga na kružile priče da će u glavnoj roli, ulozi da se sve odvija uobičajenim tempom Mantova iz opere Rigoletto Giuseppe sceni dresdenske opere bio Manrico u trubadura Manrica nastupiti jedan novi i stilom. Ali u trenutku kada su se na Verdija, Andrea Chéniera iz istoimene Verdijevom Trubaduru 1916. godine, a pjevač, stranac, rodom iz Cavtata, malog pozornici čuli prvi taktovi nastupne opere Umberta Giordana, Fausta iz to je bio početak jedne blistave karijere piktoresktnog mjesta pored Dubrovnika. uloge trubadura Manrica „Deserto istoimene opere Charlesa Gounoda, opernog pjevača koji je imao svoj visoki sulla terra ...“ nastupilo je sveopće B. F. Pinkertona iz opere Madama uzlazni trend narednih dvadesetak oduševljenje. Na bini se pojavio mlad, Butterfly Giacoma Puccinija, te uloge godina. Godine 1919. gostuje u naočiti, atletski građen pjevač, a Lohengrina i Tannhäusera iz istoimenih Beču i potpisuje ugovor za seriju od ogromni pljesak ispunio je čitavu opernu opera Richarda Wagnera. dvadesetak nastupa. Primamljivi dvoranu. Svojim čistim i raskošnim pozivi i ponude stizali su i iz Berlinske tenorskim glasom iznijansirane punoće, Tino Pattiera bio je i angažirani filmski državne opere. Od 1924. do 1929. Bio kojim je izražavao svu ljepotu lirskih glumac. Posebno izdvajamo njegova dva je istovremeno angažiran u Berlinu i pasaža i potencirao dramske trenutke filma Fra Diavolo i Noć u Veneciji. Dresdenu. U vremenskom razdoblju kada je to partitura tražila, Tino od 1921. do 1923. Pattiera je imao Pattiera je zadivio i oduševio publiku u Tino Pattiera je rođen u Cavtatu angažman s operom u Chicagu, a u dvorani. Od tog trenutka, pa narednih 27. lipnja 1890. Nakon američkim novinama se moglo pročitati dvadesetak, Tino Pattiera je bio veliko završetka gimnazije u Dubrovniku kako je veliki Enrico Caruso, Tinovim i slavno ime europske i svjetske operne najprije je započeo studij nastupima dobio svog nasljednika. scene, pjevač specifičnog glasa koji je posebnom lakoćom interpretirao Dana 7. ožujka 1933. naprasno naslovne uloge lirskog i je završena karijera Fritza Buscha (jednog od dirigenata Tina Pattiere) u dresdenskoj operi. To je bio simboličan znak za početak zalaska karijere Tina Pattiere. Te je godine iz Berlina u Dresden došao na novu dužnost muzički direktor dr. Karl Boehm koji je medicine, potom prava samo još jednom angažirao Tina Pattieru da bi na kraju pronašao za nastup na bini dresdenske opere. Od svoju životnu odrednicu tada, Pattiera je pretežno bio vezan uz – pjevanje. Odlazi u Beč Državnu operu u Berlinu uz povremena dramskog karaktera i pjevanje studira kod, u to navraćanja u Dresden. Kada su napadi najpoznatijih djela operne vrijeme najboljih učitelja, Rittera savezničke avijacije na njemačke gradove literature. Pjevao je duete i ansamble v. Horboucki – Ranieria, Franza postali sve češći i razorniji, Pattiera je s velikim opernim interpretima tog Haböcka. U prvoj polovici 1914. napustio Dresden i odlazi u Prag gdje vremenskog intervala, a njegovi su Pattiera je neočekivani primio telegram je nastupao u Narodnom kazalištu dirigenti bili Leo Blech i Fritz Beusch. od dvorske opere u Dresdenu kojim i držao poduke u solo pjevanju. U ga pozivaju na audiciju. Nakon kratke snažnom bombardiranju Dresdena 13. Nakon briljantnog uspjeha u ulozi konzultacije s prijateljima i osobama od i 14. veljače 1945. Pattiera je izgubio Manrica u Verdijevom Trubaduru, povjerenja, Tino je potvrdio svoj dolazak gotovo sve što je posjedovao, a šok koji slijedila je uloga Radamesa u Aidi, te na audiciju, iako je osobno mislio da je uslijedio ostavio je trajan trag na Don Joséa u operi Carmen. Ubrzo su mu još treba barem dvije godine učenja njegovom zdravlju. uslijedile i ostale velike operne uloge

32 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik Tino 2015. Pattiera2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 33 By vido peručić Godine 1950. dobio je poziv da preuzme Vrlo je zanimljivo istaknuti da Tino Prolaskom godina prolazilo je lagano ulogu profesora pjevanja na Akademiji Pattiera nikada nije održao koncert niti i sjećanja na cavtatskog junaka operne World-Famous Tenor from Cavtat za muzičku i likovnu umjetnost u Beču. u Cavtatu niti u Dubrovniku, pa čak scene. U tišini vremena utihnuo je Preuzima ovu počasnu ulogu, ali je istu niti u sklopu Dubrovačkih ljetnih igara. tako i Pattierin glas, a samo još poneki, dvije godine kasnije, tj. 1952. napustio Međutim, listajući programsku knjižicu uglavnom stariji, prisjetili bi se Tinovog radi pogoršanog zdravstvenog stanja. izvedbi Dubrovačkog ljetnog festivala iz imena, ali sve rjeđe i rjeđe. U želji da se 1956. godine nailazimo na programski jednom zauvijek otrgne zaboravu ovo Svoj posljednji koncert Tino Pattiera je sadržaj: Kurs za solo pjevače – voditelj slavno ime operne umjetnosti, Putnička održao 29. siječnja 1952. godine pred Tino Pattiera. agencija Aragosa, njemu u počast je svojom voljenom publikom u Dresdenu organizirala Dubrovački međunarodni izvodeći arije i pjesme autora Tostija, Želeći se polovicom 60-tih godina vratiti operni Festival – Hommage Tino Bizeta, Verdija, Puccinija, Masseneta i u Dubrovnik i tu potražiti posao, Tino Pattiera u intervalu od 2004. pa do Donizettija. Pattiera je bio zainteresiran preuzeti 2013. a od 2014. organizaciju ovog vođenje nastave za solo pjevanje u festivala preuzeo je Dubrovački Još dok se nalazio na europskom i tadašnjoj Muzičkoj školi u Dubrovniku. simfonijski orkestar. Moramo istaknuti svjetskom opernom tronu, Pattiera je Međutim, mjesto bilo popunjeno. i Monografiju o životu i umjetničkom redovno tijekom ljeta posjećivao svoj djelu Tina Pattiere kojeu je izdala Cavtat gdje je u društvu brojnih gostiju Tino Pattiera je preminuo u Cavtatu 24. Družba „Braća hrvatskog zmaja“ – iz redova europskog intelektualnog travnja 1966. godine, a pokopan je na Zagreb, „Zmajski stol“ – Dubrovnik miljea koji su ga vjerno pratili iz groblju Sv. Roka u Cavtatu. godine2004. godine u godinu, dane i noći provodio s mještanima Cavtata. Volio je s njima ići na ribanje, te igrati na boće, karte i nogomet.

general elation. A young, handsome and athletically built singer appeared role, that of the troubadour Manrico. on the stage, and huge applause filled The audience in the crowded hall of the entire opera hall. With his clear, Dresden’s Royal Saxon Court Opera rich and subtly-shaded rounded tenor he evening of 10 February 1916 waited impatiently for the opera to voice with which he fully expressed the was special and very important, begin. They wished to see and hear the beauty of the lyrical passages, and also TnotTino only for the history of the new and pompouslyPattiera announced singer accentuated the dramatic moments Dresden Opera House, but also for a who - according to rumours - was to when the music score required it, Tino young tenor, up to then unknown to become a particular gem among tenors. Pattiera impressed and delighted the the wider opera-going public. His name audience in the hall. From that moment was Martino „Tino“ Pattiera. In the The curtain rose and the operatic and in the following twenty years, Tino weeks preceding the long-announced magic began. At first, everything Pattiera was a great and famous name premiere of Verdi’s Troubadour, rumours seemed to run in accordance with the on the operatic stages of Europe and were going around Dresden that a customary tempo and style. But, at the world, and the singer with a specific new singer, a foreigner born in Cavtat the moment the stage resounded with voice who interpreted both lyrical and - a picturesque small town close to the first notes of Manrico’s aria Deserto dramatic title roles from works by the Dubrovnik - would appear in the title sulla terra ... there was an outburst of best-known opera composers with

34 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 35 incredible ease. He sang in duets and war situation in Europe (World War I), audience in Dresden, performing arias ensembles with the famous opera singers Pattiera had to report to Salzburg for and songs by Tosti, Bizet, Verdi, Puccini, of the time, under the batons of Leo military service. Massenet and Donizetti. Blech and Fritz Beusch. As previously mentioned, his first role While still on the operatic throne of

His brilliant debut in the role of Manrico on the stage of the Dresden Opera was Europe and the world, Pattiera used in Verdi’s Troubadour was followed by the that of Manrico in Verdi’s Troubadour in to visit Cavtat in the summer on a roles of Radames in Aida and Don José 1916, which marked the beginning of regular basis, where - in the company RESTAURANT KOPUN in Carmen. Soon after that, he interpreted his brilliant career as an opera singer, of numerous guests from European Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7, major operatic roles such as that of which rose meteorically in the next intellectual circles who accompanied 20 000 Dubrovnik Alfredo from the opera La Traviata by twenty years. In 1919, he had a guest him faithfully year after year - he spent tel/fax: +385(0)20 323 969 mobile: +385(0)99 212 751 Giuseppe Verdi, Canio from the opera performance in Vienna, and signed a days and nights with local residents. He mobile: +385(0)99 201 5152 Pagliacci by Ruggiero Leoncavallo, contract for a series of some twenty enjoyed going fishing with them and www.facebook.com/RestaurantKopun Otello from the opera of the same name appearances. He also received attractive playing bowls, cards and football. www.restaurantkopun.com by Giuseppe Verdi, Turiddu from the invitations and offers from the Berlin [email protected] opera Cavalleria Rusticana by Pietro State Opera. From 1924 to 1929, he Interestingly enough, Tino Pattiera Mascagni, Rodolfo from the opera La was simultaneously engaged in Berlin never held a concert in Cavtat or Boheme by Giacomo Puccini, Don Carlos and Dresden. From 1921 to 1923, Dubrovnik, nor even at the Dubrovnik from the opera Don Carlos by Giuseppe Pattiera performed at the Chicago Summer Festival. However, leafing Verdi, Mario Cavaradossi from the opera Opera, and the American press wrote through the programme notes of the Tosca by Giacomo Puccini, the Duke that the great Enrico Caruso had his heir 1956 Dubrovnik Summer Festival we of Mantua from the opera Rigoletto by in Pattiera. come across the following event: a Solo Visit us and enjoy a wide selection of meat, Giuseppe Verdi, Andrea Chénier from Singing Course conducted by Tino the opera of the same name by Umberto On 7 March 1933, the career of Fritz Pattiera. seafood and vegetarian dishes with local flair. Giordano, the title role in the opera Faust Busch, one of Pattiera’s conductors, See old recipes brought to life, all in a In the first half of the 1960s, wishing by Charles Gounod, B. F. Pinkerton ended abruptly at the Dresden Opera. stunning surroundings of Jezuiti Square in to return to Dubrovnik and find a job from the opera Madama Butterfly by This was a symbolic signal for the Dubrovnik's Old Town. there, Pattiera was interested in teaching Giacomo Puccini, as well as the title roles beginning of the decline of Pattiera’s solo singing at the then Dubrovnik of Lohengrin and Tannhäuser from the career. That year, Dr. Karl Boehm School of Music. However, the post had Richard Wagner operas. came from Berlin to Dresden to take over the post of music director. He already been filled. Tino Pattiera was also a film actor. Worth engaged Pattiera at the Dresden Opera Tino Pattiera died in Cavtat on 24 April mentioning are his films Fra Diavolo and only once. From then on, Pattiera was 1966 and was buried there at St Rok A Night in Venice. mainly tied to the Berlin State Opera, Cemetery. with occasional appearances in Dresden. Tino Pattiera was born in Cavtat, on 27 When the attacks of the Allied air As the years went by, the memory of June 1890. After completing a grammar forces on German cities became more the Cavtat opera star slowly faded away. school education in Dubrovnik, he first frequent and devastating, Pattiera left In the silence of time, Pattiera’s voice started studying medicine, then law EXTEND YOUR HOLIDAY EXPERIENCE AT Dresden and went to Prague, where became stilled too. Only a few people before finally discovering his vocation he performed at the National Theatre - mainly older ones - remembered his SUN GARDENS DUBROVNIK in life – singing. He went to Vienna to and gave solo singing lessons. In the name, but less and less frequently. study singing with the finest teachers heavy shelling of Dresden on 13 and With the aim of saving from oblivion of the time: Ritter v. Horboucki Ranieri 14 February 1945, Pattiera lost almost forever this famous operatic name, the Sun Gardens Dubrovnik Croatia’s premier 5 star resort offers you and Franz Haböck... In the first half of everything he possessed, and the shock Aragosa Travel Agency established an exquisite choice of hotel and residence accommodation. 1914, Pattiera unexpectedly received a that followed left a permanent trace on and organised in his honour the Come and try our award winning Spa by OCCO, work out in our extensive telegram from the Dresden Court Opera his health. Dubrovnik International Opera Festival sports facility followed by a meal in one of over 16 restaurants and bars. inviting him to an audition. After a - Homage to Tino Pattiera from 2004 brief consultation with his friends and In 1950, he was offered a post as singing to 2013. Since 2014, the Dubrovnik people he trusted, Pattiera confirmed his professor at the Vienna Academy Symphony Orchestra has taken over attendance at the audition, although he of Music and Visual Arts. Pattiera the organisation of this festival. A believed he still needed at least two years accepted this honorary post, but left it monograph on the life and artistic of study to be ready for such a crucial two years later, in 1952, because of his work of Tino Pattiera was released by step. He passed the audition and was deteriorating health. the Braća Hrvatskog Zmaja publisher, offered a seven year contract (two years Zagreb, Zmajski Stol – Dubrovnik, of preparation and five years of active Tino Pattiera gave his last concert on 29 January 1952 before his beloved 2004. For more information please contact our reservation centre 00 385 20 361 901 or visit performing). However, because of the www. dubrovniksungardens.com

36 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 37 SLAVNA PROŠLOST Napisao Goran CvJeTinović

2OO godina od ukinuća DUBROVAČKE REPUBLIKE

evetog će lipnja ove a tijekom kojih su sami Dubrovčani- 1814. okuplja u ljetnikovcu Giorgi gdje propao. Bečki kongres bio je samo zadnji godine biti navršena dva vlastela, građani i puk zajedno, pokušali Vlaha Cabogu imenuju privremenim čavao u lijesu Dubrovačke Republike. Dpuna stoljeća od kada je vratiti Republiku. Naime, gotovo namjesnikom Republike, te petoročlani A tamo nije bilo nikoga da zagovara člankom 99. Acte Final Bečkog kongresa sedam godina od ulaska francuskih Odbor vlastele, koji se trebao zalagati Dubrovnik. Nekada moćni dubrovački Dubrovačka Republika pripojena okupacijskih snaga u Dubrovnik za obnovu Republike. Već tada je Miho zaštitnik Osmansko carstvo, i samo Austriji i izbrisana s političke karte započeo je ustanak i probudila se nada Bona, zastupnik Republike u Beču, se polako urušavalo, drugi zaštitnik- Svijeta. u povratak Republike. U veljači 1813. izabran za osobu koja će pred stranim Papinska država, samo je odgledala godine engleski su brodovi osvojili vladarima i predstavnicima zagovarati Kongres u Beču, koji je s prekidima događanja, s Rusima Dubrovnik nije Lastovo i protjerali Francuze s otoka. obnovu dubrovačke države. trajao od rujna 1814. do 9. lipnja imao dobre odnose, a Englezi i Austrija U srpnju su osvojili Mljet i Elafite, a 1815. godine, okupio je predstavnike No, taština Vlaha Caboge i njegovo u podjeli post-napoleonske Europe ušli su i u cavtatsku luku. Upravo su europskih sila koji su krojili kartu priklanjanje austrijskom generalu jednostavno nisu željeli imati mjesta za Cavtaćani i Konavljani u listopadu prvi Europe nakon Napoleonskih ratova. Milutinoviću, ali i nekorektan i bahat Dubrovačku Republiku. oslobodili svoj teritorij od Francuza No, predstavnika dubrovačke države odnos prema engleskom kapetanu Od Rusa i Crnogoraca popljačkani i i to pod vodstvom vlastelina Vlaha na Kongresu nije bilo. Vlastelinu Mihu Lowenu, pogoršali su situaciju za spaljeni Dubrovnik i njegova okolica, Caboge i Frana Bone. Nakon toga Bona, koji je u ime Senata Dubrovačke Republiku, a nakon što vlastelin Giorgi gospodarski uništavani francusko- Englezi zauzimaju Ston i Pelješac, pa Republike dobio kredencijal za (zadnji dubrovački knez) i francuski ruskim ratovanjem i okupacijom, je sve spremno za osvajanje samoga zastupanje interesa Dubrovnika, nije gradonačelnik Bosdari nisu željeli pustiti te uništenje trgovine i brodarstva Grada. Ustanici napadaju tvrđavu uopće dopušteno da sudjeluje na s Ploča unutar zidina vlastelina Ðiva Republiku je bacilo na koljena. Imperijal na Srđu, a 23. studenoga Kongresu te je čak utamničen. Kongres, Natali s ustanicima s Brgata i Župe, sve A nesloga među vlastelom u toj osvajaju francusku utvrdu na Žarkovici i na kojemu su dominirale osobe poput je bilo spremno za propast ustanka. očajnoj situaciji dodatno je ubrzala i Bosanku. U prosincu Francuzi s vojskom Metternicha, Talleyranda, Castlereagha neminovnim učinila kraj dubrovačke izlaze iz gradskih zidina te pokušavaju Englezi i Austrijanci su izigrali dogovore i Kapodistriasa, je 457 godina nakon države. na prepad napasti ustanike u gruškoj s ustanicima, te su sami zauzeli Grad. Višegradskog ugovora, potezom pera luci. Nisu uspjeli, pa su se vratili u Najprije su Englezi rastjerali ustanike s Dva stoljeća kasnije nad prošlošću u povijest poslao teritorijem malu, ali Grad. U siječnju se u Gružu pojavljuje Ploča i sami ušli u Grad s te strane, te Republike nadvilo se proročanstvo diplomatsko-obavještajno značajnu i u i austrijski general Todor Milutinović se ponovo utvrdili, a potom su pustili da i opomena iz Orsatova monologa iz ratovima neutralnu trgovačku državu s vojskom. Dubrovčani i austrijskoj i s Pila u Grad uđu austrijski i engleski Vojnovićeve Dubrovačke trilogije. Zaborav Svetoga Vlaha. engleskoj vojsci pomažu nadajući se vojnici. Ustanici su tako ostali po strani je prekrio slavnu dubrovačku prošlost, - izigrani i prevareni. Posljednji pokušaj Podsjetniku na kraj Republike prije da će im oni zauzvrat pomoći da vrate a kroz dva stoljeća na ovom području Grb Republike iz XVI. st. dva stoljeća treba svakako nadodati i Republiku. Vlastela se 18. siječnja vlastele i velikog dijela dubrovačkih mijenjali su se razni ideološki konstrukti, događanja koja su prethodila Kongresu, podanika da vrate Republiku neslavno je ideologije i države. Posljednje poglavlje dubrovačke slobode otvoreno je slomom stoljetne suparnice Venecije

38 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 1797. godine. BajuneteWelcome Revolucijeto Dubrovnik na 39 lagunama značile su istodobno konačni slom ja- Grb Republike iz XVI. st. dransko-balkanskog državno-političkog i ekonomskog krajolika, koji u osnovi datira još iz prve četvrtine 15. stoljeća. Na njegovim ostatcima kristalizira se nova konfiguracija što Posljednje poglavlje dubrovačke slobode otvoreno je slomom stoljetne suparnice Venecije je uz Napoleona zadaje bečki dvor, ali i sve ambicioznija ruska vojna flota. Unutar ovog 1797. godine. Bajunete Revolucije na lagunama značile su istodobno konačni slom ja- trokuta sila, te uz pritajeni osmanski imperij na izdisaju, nije bilo životnog prostora za dransko-balkanskog državno-političkog i ekonomskog krajolika, koji u osnovi datira još neutralnu trgovačku istočnojadransku republiku. iz prve četvrtine 15. stoljeća. Na njegovim ostatcima kristalizira se nova konfiguracija što je uz Napoleona zadaje bečki dvor, ali i sve ambicioznija ruska vojna flota. Unutar ovog trokuta sila, te uz pritajeni osmanski imperij na izdisaju, nije bilo životnog prostora za 53 neutralnu trgovačku istočnojadransku republiku.

53 A GLORIOUS PAST By Goran CvJeTinović

2OOth Anniversary of the Abolition of the Dubrovnik Republic

n 9 June 2015, a two full Recalling the end of the Republic to carry out a surprise attack on the of Dubrovnik) and the French Mayor simply did not wish to leave room for centuries will have elapsed that took place two centuries ago, insurgents in the port of Gruž. The Bosdari refused to let the nobleman the Dubrovnik Republic in their carve- Ofrom the day when - one should certainly also mention the attack was a failure, and they returned Ðivo Natali and the insurgents from up of post-Napoleonic Europe. events leading up to the Congress, to the City. In January of the following according to Article 99 Acte Final of the Brgat and Župa into the City from the The plunder and burning down of during which the people of Dubrovnik year, the Austrian General Todor Congress of Vienna - the Dubrovnik Ploče side, all the factors were in place Dubrovnik and its surroundings by - aristocrats, citizens and commoners Milutinović also appeared in Gruž with Republic was annexed to Austria and for the failure of the rebellion. the Russians and Montenegrins, the - tried together to re-establish the his troops. The people of Dubrovnik erased from the political map of the The English and the Austrians reneged destruction of its economy by the Republic. Namely, almost seven years helped both the Austrian and English world. on their agreements with the insurgents, Franco-Russian wars and occupation, after the French occupational forces armies, hoping that they would help The Congress of Vienna, which lasted and occupied the City themselves. The and the devastation of trade and the entered Dubrovnik, a rebellion started them re-establish the Republic in return. with intervals from September 1814 English first dispelled the insurgents shipping industry brought the Republic and people’s hope for the return of the On 18 January 1814, the Dubrovnik to 9 June 1815, gathered together from the Ploče area, entered the City to its knees. In this desperate situation Republic was reborn. In February 1813, aristocrats assembled at the Giorgi representatives of the European powers from that side, entrenched themselves the conflict between its aristocrats just English ships conquered Lastovo and summer residence, where Vlaho Caboga who carved out the map of Europe again, and after that let the Austrian accelerated and made inevitable the end expelled the French from the island. In was appointed temporary governor of after the Napoleonic Wars. However, and English soldiers enter the City from of the Dubrovnik Republic. July that same year, they conquered the the Republic. An aristocratic council there were no representatives of the the Pile side. The insurgents were thus island of Mljet and the Elafite Islands, consisting of five members was also Two centuries later, the prophecy and Dubrovnik Republic at the Congress. left sidelined – thwarted and deceived. and also entered the port of Cavtat. It formed, with the aim of advocating warning from Orsat’s monologue from The Aristocrat Miho Bona - who The last attempt of the Dubrovnik was precisely the people of Cavtat and the restoration of the Republic. Miho Ivo Vojnović’s The Trilogy of Dubrovnik received his credentials from the aristocrats and a large number of Konavle led by the noblemen Vlaho Bona was at this time appointed the still loom over Dubrovnik. The glorious Dubrovnik Republic Senate to represent Dubrovnik’s subjects to re-establish the Caboga and Frano Bona who first Republic’s representative in Vienna who history of Dubrovnik fell into oblivion, the interests of Dubrovnik - was not Republic failed miserably. The Congress liberated their territory from the French. was to advocate the re-establishment and - in the course of two centuries - allowed to take part in the Congress, of Vienna was merely the last nail in the After that, the English took possession of the Dubrovnik Republic before the different ideological constructs, beliefs and was even imprisoned. With a stroke coffin of the Dubrovnik Republic, with of Ston and Pelješac, and everything foreign rulers and representatives. and states have replaced one another in of the pen, the Congress, dominated by no one there to stand up for Dubrovnik. was ready for the capture of the City this region. people such as Metternich, Talleyrand, However, Vlaho Caboga’s vanity and his The one-time powerful protector of itself. The insurgents attacked Fort Castlereagh and Kapodistrias, sent the deference toward the Austrian General the Dubrovnik Republic, the Ottoman Imperial on Mount Srđ, and took over neutral merchant state of Saint Blaise - Milutinović, as well as his improper and Empire, was itself slowly collapsing; the French stronghold at Žarkovica and territorially small, but significant in the arrogant attitude toward the English its second protector, the Papal State, the village of Bosanka on 23 November. diplomatic- and intelligence sense - into Captain Lowen, made the situation merely observed the events; Dubrovnik In December, the French moved their Grb Republike iz XVI. st. the realms of history 457 years after the more difficult for the Republic. After did not have good relations with the troops outside the city walls and tried Treaty of Višegrad. the nobleman Giorgi (the last Rector Russians; whilst England and Austria Posljednje poglavlje dubrovačke slobode otvoreno je slomom stoljetne suparnice Venecije

1797. godine. Bajunete Revolucije na lagunama40 značile Dobro Dsuošli istodobno u Dubrovnik konačni slom ja- 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 41 Grb Republike iz XVI. st. dransko-balkanskog državno-političkog i ekonomskog krajolika, koji u osnovi datira još iz prve četvrtine 15. stoljeća. Na njegovim ostatcima kristalizira se nova konfiguracija što Posljednje poglavlje dubrovačke slobode otvoreno je slomom stoljetne jesuparnice uz Napoleona zadaje bečki dvor, ali i sve ambicioznija ruska Venecije vojna flota. Unutar ovog 1797. godine. Bajunete Revolucije na lagunama značile su istodobnotrokuta konačnisila, te uz pritajeni osmanski imperij na izdisaju, nijeslom bilo životnog prostora za ja- dransko-balkanskog državno-političkog i ekonomskog krajolika, koji uneutralnu trgovačkuosnovi istočnojadransku republiku. datira još iz prve četvrtine 15. stoljeća. Na njegovim ostatcima kristalizira se nova konfiguracija što je uz Napoleona zadaje bečki dvor, ali i sve ambicioznija ruska vojna flota. Unutar ovog trokuta sila, te uz pritajeni osmanski imperij na izdisaju, nije bilo životnog prostora 53 za neutralnu trgovačku istočnojadransku republiku.

53 Između istine i legende Napisao daMir račić

Tri glave nad vratima od Pila

dokumentima Interesanto je citirati i mišljenje koji se nalaze svojedobnog konzervatora dubrovačkih Uu Državnom starina prof. Josipa Gelcicha, koji u svojoj arhivu Dubrovnika sačuvane su mnoge Nije bio običaj u Dubrovniku knjizi „Erzgisser der Republick Ragusa“ povijesne informacije o maloj, ali da se podižu spomenici ni velikim navodi sljedeće: „Nad vratima na mostu slavnoj Dubrovačkoj Republici koja je djelima, a kamoli skandaloznim, tim više, od Pila uzidan je jedan kapitel na komu bila samostalna 450 godina (1358.- što bi ovi potonji bili više na sramotu su urezane glave jednog fratra i dviju 1808.). Prošlost Dubrovnika obiluje Dubrovnika nego fratara. Dubrovčani dumana. Narod, koji (zbog) pomanjkanja raznovrsnim zanimljivostima jer je su držali do svoje uglađenosti i svoga historijskog znanja nadopunjuje Republika održavala mnogobrojne ugleda, do svoje religioznosti i svoga (objašnjava taj prikaz) čudnim pričama diplomatske i trgovinske veze s morala. Iz navedenih razloga nitko neće (te) kaže, da taj kamen predstavlja jednog gradovima na Sredozemlju i s onima u povjerovati da su Dubrovčani htjeli fratra koji je u grešnoj nakani odveo zaleđu Balkana. Mnoge osobe „plave osramotiti svoje redovnike i redovnice (zaveo) dvije dumne. U stvari taj kamen krvi“ kao i trgovci, zanatlije, umjetnici pa pred strancima koji su posjećivali Grad spominje patriotizam triju samostana i i špijuni pohodili su u minulim stoljećima u ranijim stoljećima. Time bi sebe to: franjevačkog, Sv. Klare i Sv. Marka slobodnu državicu na istočnoj obali osramotili, pogotovo jer su redovnici koji su ustupili svoje zemljište za gradnju Jadranskoga mora. U starim listinama mahom bili Dubrovčani, a redovnice u utvrda od Minčete do Bokara“. mogu se naći razne političke odluke ženskim samostanima, kćeri dubrovačke Obzirom, da je dokazano da dubrovačke vlasti, te objašnjenja istih,a vlastele. Naime, u dubrovačkim ženskim je samostan Sv. Klare sagradio kulu koje su doprinijele opstanku Dubrovačke samostanima, kojih je bilo osam, stotine Puncjela („pulcellama: starotalijanski Republike na političkoj karti Europe u vlasteoskih kćeri, ne samo zbog toga naziv za djevice), početak gradnje na burnim srednjovjekovnim vremenima. što su željele postati dumne, već zato svom zemljištu od 1305. godine i na U listinama je zapisano i puno toga o što su njihovi očevi davali miraz samo svoj trošak (Reform. II. str. 311), nema izgradnji Dubrovačkih zidina i utvrda, najstarijoj kćeri prilikom udaje, a mlađe razloga sumnjati u povijesno Gelcichevo palača, socijalnih ustanova i o mnogo su se morale povinuti očevoj naredbi i tumačenje o postavljanju triju glava nad čemu drugom što je bilo važno za poći u samostan. Samostani su se nalazili Vratima od Pila. svakodnevni život žitelja Dubrovačke na južnoj strani Grada i nizali su se od Navođenjem povijesnih Republike. Pustijerne prema zapadu: Samostan činjenica franjevca O. Urbana Talije sv. Tome, Sv. Mihajla Arhanđela, Sv. i dodatnog objašnjenja konzervatora O jednom nedovoljno poznatom Apostola, Sv. Šimuna, Sv. Marije od starina prof. Josipa Gelcicha u potpunosti povijesnom detalju koji se nalazi nad Kaštela, Sv. Andrije, Sv. Marka i Sv. se demantira izmišljotina o nemoralnoj vanjskim Vratima od Pila izgrađenim Klare. vezi između fratra iz samostana i Crkve 1538. godine pripovijeda ovaj tekst tema Male braće i dviju dumni iz samostana Sv. kojeg su tri glave (lica) koje se nalaze Neprihvatljivo je da su Klare. iznad kamenog luka, a ispod kipa sv. Dubrovčani postavili spomenik s Istina je da je dubrovačka Vlaha. Još od 20-ih godina XX. stoljeća tri glave, koji bi spominjao njihovu Vlada iskazala na najprimjereniji način pogrešno je zaključeno, zbog površnog sramotu, i to baš ispod kipa sv. Vlaha, zahvalnost za veliko domoljublje trima istraživanja (možda i zlonamjerno – op. pogotovo stoga što se i u Franjevačkom dubrovačkim samostanima javnim D.R.), da prikazuje nemoralnu vezu samostanu u Rijeci dubrovačkoj nalazio postavljanjem spomen obilježja s između dviju dumni i jednog fratra. To na vanjskom zidu indentičan kapitel s tri trima glavama (licima), radi ustupanja tumačenje potpuno je neistinito, odnosno glave, a i na klaustru samostana Male samostanskog zemljišta koje za izgradnju povijesno neutemeljeno. Interesanto je, braće postoje također četiri kapitela slične i pojačanje zidina i utvrda od tvrđave kako se ta izmišljotina održala sve do izrade, samo je razmještaj glava (lica) Bokar do tvrđave Minčeta. današnjih dana. drugačiji.

42 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 43 Between Truth and Legend By daMir račić Three Heads at the Pile Gate

ocuments kept in the in 1538, i.e. the three heads (faces) the younger ones were forced to obey the Franciscan Monastery, St Claire’s Dubrovnik State Archives located above the stone vault, and under their fathers’ orders and go to a convent. Convent and St Mark’s Convent, which Dhave preserved a large St Blaise’s statue. Since the 1920s, The convents were located in the gave up their land for the construction amount of historical data about the superficial (and perhaps malevolent – southern part of the city, spanning from of fortifications from Fort Minčeta to small but glorious Dubrovnik Republic according to the author) research has Pustijerna westwards in the following Fort Bokar“. which managed to stay independent led to the mistaken conclusion that the order: the Convents of St Thomas, for 450 years (1358-1808). The heads represent an immoral relationship St Michael Archangel, St Apostle, St In view of the proven fact that St history of Dubrovnik abounds in between two nuns and a friar. This Simeon, St Mary of the Citadel, St Claire’s Convent did build the Puncjela diverse curiosities because the Republic interpretation is completely untrue, Andrew, St Mark and St Claire. Tower (pulcella is an Old Italian word maintained numerous diplomatic and historically unfounded. Curiously denoting a virgin) with its own funds and trade connections with cities in enough, this fabrication has survived to One cannot believe that the people and on its own land - construction the Mediterranean as well as those in this day. of Dubrovnik put up a three-headed began in 1305 (Reform. II. page 311) - the Balkan hinterlands. Many „blue monument to their shame, just below there is no reason to consider Gelcich’s blooded“ people, as well as merchants, It was not customary in Dubrovnik to the statue of St Blaise. An identical interpretation historically incorrect. tradesmen, craftsmen, artists and even put up monuments to honour great capital with three heads also stood spies visited during bygone centuries deeds, let alone scandalous ones. More on the external wall of the Franciscan The fabrication that an immoral the small free state on the eastern to the point, the latter would bring Monastery in Rijeka Dubrovačka. In the relationship existed between a friar from coast of the Adriatic Sea. Amongst old more shame on Dubrovnik than on cloister of the Friars Minor Monastery the Friars Minor Monastery and two documents can be found records of a the friars. The people of Dubrovnik set there are four similar capitals, with a nuns from St. Clare’s Convent is fully variety of political decisions taken by the great store by their gentility, reputation, different line-up of heads (faces). refuted by quoting the historical facts Dubrovnik authorities along with the piety and morality. For these reasons, provided by the Franciscan friar Urban clarification of many political questions nobody will believe that the people of There is an interesting quote by Talija and the additional explanation by crucial to the Dubrovnik Republic’s Dubrovnik wished to dishonour their the erstwhile Dubrovnik antiquity the antiquity conservationist Professor very survival on the political map of friars and nuns in front of the foreigners conservationist, Professor Josip Gelcich, Josip Gelcich. Europe during turbulent medieval who visited the city in bygone centuries. in his book entitled Erzgisser der times. The documents also mention This would also mean bringing disgrace Republick Ragusa: „Built into the Pile Let us conclude: by putting up a the construction of the Dubrovnik on themselves, because the majority Gates above the Pile Bridge stands a memorial with three heads, the city walls, fortresses, palaces, social of monks were Dubrovnik-born, and capital with the carved heads of a friar Dubrovnik authorities expressed in the institutions and many other items the nuns in the convents daughters of and two nuns. The locals - who, due most appropriate way their gratitude important to the every-day lives of the Dubrovnik aristocrats. Namely, the to their lack of historical knowledge, for the great patriotism of the three Dubrovnik Republic residents. eight Dubrovnik convents were home use bizarre stories to explain the stone Dubrovnik monasteries in their to hundreds of aristocratic daughters, depiction - claim that it represents a giving up of monastery land for the This text deals with a little-known not only because they wished to become friar who sinfully seduced two nuns. In construction and reinforcement of walls historical detail which can be found nuns, but because their fathers only gave reality, however, the stone represents the and strongholds from Fort Bokar to Fort on the external Pile Gate, constructed dowries to their eldest daughters, while patriotism of three religious institutions: Minčeta.

44 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 45 Napisala Maja Nodari Suze sv. Lovra

ile su Dubrovniku danas te tvrđave je iz osvita 14. stoljeća, predvorje, ulaz u Grad, košnica kad se imenuje jedan od niza njezinih u Pilama Pljudska u vrijeme turističke kaštelana. O radovima na tvrđavi, stanu sezone, a nekoć su bile zapadno gradsko za posadu, vojnicima, moćnoj artiljeriji predgrađe. Ime su dobile po grčkoj riječi i naoružanju, topovima Ivana Krstitelja pylai - vrata, što odgovara njihovom Rabljanina - posebno topu “Gušteru” iz prostiranju pokraj samih zidina. 1537., govore trajno arhivski spisi 16. i Predgrađe, stvoreno kao planirano 17. stoljeća, kad tvrđava dobija današnji kasnosrednjovjekovno naselje postalo izgled, jer Veliki potres 1667. godine je prava dubrovačka “industrijska nije poštedio njezinu unutrašnjost, pa zona”. Tu su se u 15. stoljeću formirali joj se sanacija odvijala do konca 17. proizvodni gradski pogoni: snažna stoljeća. tekstilna industrija, vezana uz izgradnju Onofrijevog vodovoda, bojadisaonice, radionice sapuna, staklarski obrt i Pile su oduvijek bile intimni dio Grada, proizvodnja ostalih potrepština. Od slikovit i malen, a živjeti u Pilama, 1420. do 1435. Dubrovnik postaje kako kažu Pilari je kao “živjeti u jednoj sredozemno središte suknarskog zanata velikoj, obitelji”, vremenu unatoč. i tekstilne prodaje, 1432. osniva se Odjeci davnih suknara ostavili su traga komora vunarskog obrta, prva u i u Kolorini, Domićevoj mastionici i Hrvatskoj. To je početak modernog čistionici robe, a ni svoga svetoga Lovra, Dubrovnika, kada novac zarađen osobito štovanog u vrijeme Dubrovačke trgovinom srebra, postaje izvor za Republike, nisu zaboravili. kupnju katalonske vune, a proizvodnja tkanina na Pilama daje golem profit. Proslava njegova blagdana na pilarski Uspostavom državnih suknarskih način, jer Pilara bude najviše najviše, radionica, omogućujući i privatnicima impozantna je impresija zreloga osnivanje takvih manufaktura, dubrovačkog ljeta. Ritualno hodočašće tehnološkim razvojem i lancem radnih započinje kod Crkve sv. Ðurđa u Pilama, operacija koje su proizvodile prestižne a barjak s barjaktarom, svećenikom i tkanine s pečatom “panni ragusei“ vjernim pukom vodi uzbrdo, skalinima za mediteransko i balkansko tržište, Marka Foteza , zbrajajući stoljeća, i povezao se Dubrovnik sa svim krajevima penje se na Lovrjenac, nazvan baš po sv. tadašnjeg svijeta. Lovru, mladom mučeniku kršćanstva, iz Hispanije, smaknutom u vrijeme A dio Pila je i moćna, samostojeća rimskog cara Valerijana. Misno se tvrđava Lovrjenac, koja se izdiže onako slavlje obavlja pred njegovom baroknom ponosno na 37 metara visokoj hridi nad majušnom kapelicom u prizemlju morem, dio sjajnog i toliko poznatog tvrđave, a slika iz kapelice iznese se pod dubrovačkog fortifikacijskog sustava. sutonsko nebo, u posvećeni tvrđavski, Ime nosi po sv. Lovru čija se starodrevna ali i umjetnički prostor, čuveno crkva se nalazila u njezinom prostoru, scensko dubrovačko hamletiše. I to na kao i kuća pobožnih žena, trećoretkinja, njegov blagdan 10. kolovoza, u smiraj u narodu zvanih picokare koje su se kolovoškog dana, kada zvijezde sjaje brinule o crkvi. Kroničari datiraju najjače, a u to vrijeme godine bilježi se nastanak Lovrjenca u 1018. i 1038. i pojava kiše meteora, Perzeida, što u godinu, a prvi očuvani arhivski spomen narodu nazivaju Suzama svetoga Lovra.

46 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 47 By Maja Nodari The Tears of St Lawrence at Pile

ile is nowadays Dubrovnik’s In the area of Pile also stands the Nor have the Pilari forgotten their St forecourt, an entrance to the mighty, freestanding Fort Lovrjenac, Lawrence who was revered during the PCity, a human beehive during rising proudly from a 37 metre high cliff time of the Dubrovnik Republic. the tourist season, and the City’s one- above the sea, part of the magnificent time western suburb. It was named after and widely-known Dubrovnik The celebration of this saint’s day in the Pile-like manner, because the Pilari the Greek word pylai – meaning a door fortification system. It was named after – which corresponded to its position St Lawrence, whose ancient church usually happen to be the greatest in close to the city walls. The suburb, stood within its walls, alongside the number, gives an imposing impression designed as a planned late-medieval house of devout women, the Tertiaries, of Dubrovnik’s late summer. The ritual pilgrimage begins at St George’s Church settlement, became Dubrovnik’s true popularly called picokare, who took care “industrial zone”. This is where in of the church. Chroniclers date the at Pile, whence the flag, the flag carrier, the 15th century the city’s production construction of Lovrjenac back to 1018 the priest and the faithful proceed plants were established: a powerful and 1038, while the first preserved uphill, climbing the stairs of Marko textile industry connected with the archival record of the fort comes from Fotez, as they have done for centuries, construction of the Onofrio water the early 14th century, when one of its in order to reach Fort Lovrjenac, supply, dyeing plants, soap workshops, numerous castellans was appointed. named after St Lawrence, the young the glazier’s trade and the production of Works on the fort, the crew’s quarters, Christian martyr from Hispania killed other commodities. From 1420 to 1435, the soldiers, the powerful artillery and during the rule of the Roman emperor Dubrovnik became the Mediterranean weapons, as well as the cannons of Ivan Valerian. Holy mass is celebrated in centre for the cloth-weaving trade and Krstitelj Rabljanin (John the Baptist front of his small Baroque chapel on textile sales. In 1432, a wool-trade of Rab) – particularly the gun named the fort’s ground floor, and a painting chamber was established, the first in Gušter (Lizard) from 1537 – have been of him is carried from the chapel out Croatia. It was the beginning of the saved from oblivion in archival records beneath the sky at sunset, into the modern Dubrovnik, when money from the 16th and 17th centuries, fort’s consecrated but also artistic earned from the silver trade became a when the fort obtained its present- area, the famous Dubrovnik venue for source for purchasing Catalonian wool, day appearance. Namely, the great performances of Hamlet. The ceremony th and the production of fabrics at Pile earthquake of 1667 did not spare the takes place on 10 August, at nightfall, made huge profits. By establishing fort’s interior, and its restoration lasted when the stars are brightest. This state-owned cloth-making workshops, till the end of the 17th century. time of the year is characterized by the permitting private persons to start up appearance of a major meteor shower, such manufacturing businesses too, and Pile has always been an intimate part of the Perseids, popularly called the tears by the technological development and the City, picturesque and petite, while of St Lawrence. manufacturing chain that produced living at Pile – as its residents, the prestigious fabrics with the “panni Pilari, claim – is like “the living in one ragusei“ label for the Mediterranean and huge family”, regardless of time. Echoes Balkan markets, Dubrovnik established of the ancient cloth works have also connections with all parts of the then- left their traces on Kolorina, Domić’s known world. clothes-dyeing and dry-cleaning shop.

48 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 49 Napisao / By luko Brailo

50 YEARS of Linđo’s Playful Youth

ko ste u Dubrovniku krasi, već pet desetljeća, nepatvoreni f you happen to visit Dubrovnik, shows, which have - for five decades preporučujemo vam:odvojite šarm razigrane i raspjevane mladenačke we recommend that you reserve now - been recognised for their genuine Adva sata svog dragocjenog radosti. Itwo hours of your precious charm and youthful exuberance in vremena i posjetite nastup Folklornog Folklorni ansambl “Linđo” danas je time for a performance of the Linđo performing. ansambla “Linđo”. Osvjedočit ćete se ustanova u kulturi Grada Dubrovnika. Folklore Ensemble. You will witness Today, the Linđo Folklore Ensemble da su to iznimno dojmljive priredbe No, “Linđo” je u proteklih pedeset an impressive event through which is a cultural institution in the City preko kojih ćete upoznati dobar dio godina postao mnogo više od you will get to know a good deal of of Dubrovnik. However, for the past tradicijske kulture i narodne umjetnosti toga:nezaobilazni je dio kulturne the cultural tradition and folk art of fifty years, Linđo has become much dubrovačkoga kraja, ali i velikog dijela ponude turističkog Dubrovnika i jedan both the Dubrovnik region and other more than that: a compulsory part Hrvatske. je od najupečatljivijih simbola društveno parts of Croatia. Ever since 1965, when of the Dubrovnik tourist scene, one Od svoga osnutka 1965. godine, kada korisnog okupljanja dubrovačke the ensemble was founded by Mr. of the most recognisable symbols of je Ansambl utemeljio g. Sulejman mladosti postavši tako dobrim duhom Sulejman Muratović, many generations the socially beneficial gatherings of Muratović, brojne generacije mladih Grada. O tome rječito govori činjenica of young girls and boys of Dubrovnik Dubrovnik’s youth, thus becoming Dubrovkinja i Dubrovčana neumorno i da je u proteklih pet desetljeća više od have tirelessly and with great success the good spirit of the City. In support of s velikim uspjehom prikazuju narodno 3000 mladih Dubrovkinja i Dubrovčana presented folk traditions from almost all this is the fact that during the last five stvaralaštvo iz gotovo svih hrvatskih plesom, pjesmom i muziciranjem prošlo the regions of Croatia. decades more than 3000 young people krajeva. kroz Ansambl njegujući i predstavljajući The ensemble consists of around 300 in Dubrovnik have been members of the Ansambl okuplja oko 300 mladih običaje, tradiciju i kulturnu baštinu svog young members who dance and sing in ensemble, cultivating and presenting the 5O koji plešući i pjevajući u originalnim i drugih hrvatskih krajeva. priceless original folk costumes, of which customs, tradition and cultural heritage kostimima neprocjenjive vrijednosti – a “Linđo”, koji je dobio ime po Linđo has about 1500 in its collection, of this and other Croatian regions with Linđo ih u svom fundusu ima 1500 najpopularnijem narodnom kolu u conquering audiences with their vigour their dance, song and music-making. - plijene svojom živošću i šarenilom dubrovačkome kraju, gostovao je and versatility and testifying to the Named after the most popular folk GODINA svjedočeći o bogatstvu tradicijske diljem Europe, kao i u mnogim velikim richness of Croatia’s cultural tradition dance in the Dubrovnik region, Linđo kulture i hrvatskog folklora. gradovima SAD-a, Australije, Južne and folklore. has toured Europe, as well as major Kad je o tome riječ upravo se starinski Amerike i Japana. Njegove su nastupe This particular ancient component of cities in the USA, Australia, South sloj hrvatske tradicijske glazbe i snimale najuglednije svjetske televizijske Croatian traditional music and dance is America and Japan. Its performances razigrane plesa odlikuje bogatstvom različitih kuće, a od 1967. godine “Linđo” je characterised by its wealth of different have been broadcast by the world’s izvoditeljskih stilova, heterogenošću stalni i uspješni sudionik Folklornog performing styles, diverse repertoire and most renowned TV channels. Since repertoara te raznovrsnošću dijela programa Dubrovačkih ljetnih variety of music instruments. 1967, Linđo has been a permanent and upotrijebljenih glazbala. igara, svjetski poznatog i najpriznatijeg Ethno experts claim that such diversity acclaimed participant in the folklore “Linđove” Takva je raznorodnost, ističu hrvatskog glazbeno-scenskog festivala. is a consequence of erratic living programme of the Dubrovnik Summer etnostručnjaci, posljedica neujednačenih Od mnogobrojnih pobjeda i nagrada conditions, turbulent historic events and Festival, the world famous and most životnih uvjeta, turbulentnih povijesnih na brojnim festivalima “Linđo” je Croatia’s position at the geographical, prestigious music and theatre festival in događanja te smještaja Hrvatske osobito ponosan na Zlatnu kolajnu za political and cultural crossroads between Croatia. na zemljopisnom, političkom i ples i Zlatnu ploču za glazbu osvojene the Mediterranean, Central European The recipient of numerous awards and mladosti kulturnom susretištu mediteranskog, na svjetski najpriznatijem Festivalu and Balkan regions. The four basic accolades, Linđo is particularly proud srednjeuropskog i balkanskog prostora. folklora, u francuskom gradu Dijonu Croatian regions are: the lowland, of its Gold Medal for dance and Gold Četiri temeljne hrvatske regije:nizinska, 1973. Godine 2012. Linđo je postao central, mountain and coastal regions, Record for music won at the world’s središnja, gorska i primorska ujedno nositelj priznanja „Ambasador mira“ which at the same time represent most prestigious Folklore Festival in su i četiri različita, nerijetko nadasve koje mu je dodijela hrvatska sekcija four different and often completely Dijon, France, in 1973. In 2012, Linđo kontrastna etnografska područja. međunarodnog Instituta za promidžbu contrasting ethnographic areas. was acknowledged as an Ambassador Najveći dio tih zanimljivih i čudesnih mira kroz turizam (IIPT). You, esteemed visitors to Dubrovnik, for Peace by the Croatian Department kontrasta doživjet ćete, poštovani will have the opportunity to experience of the International Institute for posjetitelji Dubrovnika, upravo na most of these interesting and amazing Promoting Peace Through Tourism “Linđovim” priredbama, čije nastupe contrasts precisely at one of these Linđo (IIPT).

50 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 51 Napisao lukša luCianović O tome postoji i nekoliko zapisa, a Poslije Drugoga svjetskog rata ustrojena jedan od njih je i pjesma Naši fakini je u tu svrhu služba, i svaki nosač, fakin, ,dubrovačkoga pjesnika Nika Kučara. morao je imati kapu i na njoj broj što je dubrovački značilo da ima dozvolu za rad na ovim poslovima. Najčešće su se zadržavali u „fakini“ NAŠI FAKINI Gružu na pristaništu te na Pilama. Tu pred crkvom Svetoga Vlaha I danas ova služba postoji, ali sjedali su nekad naši fakini, organizirana na sasvim drugi kao gospari su bili, ušesni i fini. način. Fakini su postali „karićari“. U staro su ih doba Republike zvali Koncentrirani su na Pločama (istočni Soldati i Bastasi; ulaz u Grad) odakle prenose raznu robu Ustav iz 1907. g. sjedali bi na kapitelima vlasteoskih dvora, građanima ili vlasnicima brojnih radnji - Pravila Bratstva svetoga Mihajla zamišljeni, mirni; u staroj gradskoj jezgri, a to obavljaju zanimljiv je bio ton njihovih razgovora. na karićima (kolicima) ručne izgrade, Zanimljivo je napomenuti kako su Na Korosante, Svetoga Vlaha iako se u zadnje vrijeme sve više koriste i „fakini“ imali svoj Ustav. Izašao je i na funeralima gospara kolica na električni pogon. 1907. godine i imao je 25 članaka. bili su obučeni u lijepa odijela stara, Naslov ovog Ustava je bio „Bratstvo u šarenim bojama, svilajem oko pasa, Što se pak tiče današnje pomoći sv. Mihajla u Dubrovniku“ ili Bratstvo ponosna stasa; turistima treba napomenuti kako je trhonoša – fakina , a sadržavao je crvena kapa im na glavi, moderni način prometovanja omogućio sljedeća podglavlja: Ime i svrha bratstva, široke gaće od svile brzi dolazak ili odlazak putnika iz članovi, prava članova, uprava, dužnost i đemàdan plavi. nekog mjesta u drugo, a ulogu „fakina“ uprave, skupština, razne odredbe, barjak A sad ih više nema! ... preuzeli su hotelski portiri, bagažisti, i zaglava. Kako se može zaključiti iz Ni kapitela sa vlasteoskih dvora, taxisti ili pratitelji autobusa - ako je svakom gradu postoji 23 člana ovog Ustava pravila bratstva ni njihova razgovora; u pitanju grupni dolazak ili odlazak služba koja pomaže svojim ili nešto slično tome postojala su i prije još gdjekoji živi - crkva Svetoga Vlaha gostiju. Ove zadnje šaljivo zovemo građanima kada je u pitanju U 1907. godine. i na njih uspomena! „beduinima“. prijenos stvari s jednog mjesta na drugo. U turističkim mjestima ova služba pak Fakini na funeralima (Dubrovnik, 9.10.1938.) Od davnine pa sve do današnjih dana pomaže i turistima prilikom njihovog Nosači su se regrutirali između siromašnih dubrovački „fakini“ bili su vrijedni, dolaska, odlaska ili prolaza kroz to Primoraca. Prihvaćali su se svakoga posla Osim što su „fakini“ bili zaduženi pošteni i nadasve radišni ljudi. Neka turističko mjesto. To su nosači, na koji bi im se ponudio. Nosili su i kapse s da pomažu građanima i gostima u takvi ostanu i dalje. dubrovačkom fakini. mrtvacima. Tako je to bilo u samom Gradu, a kako je to bilo u Gružu gdje su pristajali brodovi prenošenju raznih stvari, kako smo to prije spomenuli, bili su zaduženi i da (Literatura: Vedran Benić, Niko Kučar, Ivo Perić, Mato Podić, Od nekadašnjih nosača, fakina, koji Fakini, s druge strane, imali su točno najbolje govori ovaj tekst poznatog Nada Skatolini, Ivo Vojnović, Nenad Vekarić i drugi) su poslije pada Dubrovačke Republike određen posao - jedini su smjeli iskrcavati hrvatskog povjesničara, književnika i prate mrtvačke ljesove koji su se nalazili sjedili ispred Crkve sv. Vlaha, pa do robu s trgovačkih brodova u Gradskome političara Ivana Kukuljevića Sakcinskog na kotačima. Drugog svjetskog rata i današnjih dana, portu, a zbog čega su ih i zvali fakinima od koji je boravio u Dubrovniku 1856. Kako je došlo do toga da oni nose saznajmo tko su bili dubrovački fakini. dogane. Za razliku od nosača Primoraca, g. On je, među ostalim, napisao kako kapsu na sprovodima nije poznato. Za pretpostaviti je kako u to vrijeme U nekadašnje su doba postojali “nosači” fakini su bili Konavljani iz siromašnih mu je to „putovanje za svagdje ostalo u nije bilo službenih poduzeća koja su i “fakini od dogane”. Lako ih je bilo gornjih sela. Za posao fakina, tražila se nezaboravnom sjećanju“ iako je za „fakine“ obavljala taj posao, pa je svaka obitelj razlikovati, sjedali su odvojeno, svaki na velika fizička snaga. Svaki od njih trebao napisao sljedeće: »Kad se iskrcasmo odvedoše sama organizirala sprovode. Osim što svom kamenu na pločniku slijeve i desne je biti sposoban podići vreću od stotinu kila, me fakini noseći predamnom robu najprije na su na funeralima nosili kapsu, obavljali strane skalina Crkve svetoga Vlaha. Fakini takozvanu “bombajku”, prenijeti je i opet doganu, od dogane opet drugi do najmljene su i poslove ukopavanja sve do Drugoga su sjedali na zapadnoj strani, prema Pilama, spustiti na tlo. Tko za tako nešto nije bio karuce, a pri ovoj preuzeše opet treći robu, da svjetskog rata. a nosači na drugoj, istočnoj strani, prema dovoljno snažan, nije ni mogao postati fakin je smjeste na kočiju. Svaki put moradoh s nova portu. Naime, postojala je stroga razlika od dogane. Svoje drvene kare fakini su držali platiti dosadnu čeljad i prepirati se s njom između nosača i fakina. ispred stupova Sponze - dogane. poradi dara«.

52 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 53 By lukša luCianović Constitution There are several written records on After World War II, a service was set from the year 1907 such events, including a poem entitled up for this purpose, and each porter, -The Rules of St Michael’s Our Fakini by the Dubrovnik poet Niko fakin, had to wear a cap with a number, Brotherhood Kučar. which meant that he possessed a permit for jobs of this kind. They most often dubrovnik Interestingly enough, the fakini had operated in Gruž at the quayside, and Porters their own constitution. It came out in OUR FAKINI at Pile. 1907, and consisted of 25 articles. The constitution was entitled The Brotherhood In front of St Blaise’s Church The service still exists today, but it is of St Michael in Dubrovnik, or the Fakini Our fakini used to sit, organised in a completely different way. Brotherhood, and it comprised the All dressed up, like gentlemen. The fakini have become cart-pullers. following articles: The Brotherhood’s In the old time of the Republic They wait at Ploče (the eastern entrance Name and Purpose, the Members, the Soldiers and Porters they were called; to the City), from where they transport Members’ Rights, the Management, On the capitals of noblemen’s palaces they various goods for residents or owners the Management’s Obligations, the used to sit, of the numerous shops in the Old City Assembly, Miscellaneous Decisions, Pensive and calm; using their home-made carts, although the Banner and the Title. As one The sound of their talk quite intriguing. in recent times electric carts are more can conclude from Article 23 of this At the Feast of Corpus Christi, and more in use. Constitution, the Brotherhood’s rules, the Festival of St Blaise and gentlefolk’s or something similar, had also existed funerals, Regarding the assistance offered to before 1907. They walked proudly tourists today, it ought to be mentioned In fine old colourful clothes, that modern traffic has enabled fast Fakini at Funerals With silk waist-bands, travel from one place to another and Red caps on their heads, that the role of the fakini has been taken In addition to their obligation to Wearing wide silk trousers, over by hotel porters, baggage handlers, help their fellow citizens and guests And blue waistcoats embroidered with silver taxi drivers or bus escorts – where group carry different things, as previously and silk. arrivals and departures are concerned. mentioned, the fakini were obliged to Yet, they are gone now!.. The latter are jokingly nicknamed escort coffins on wheels. The reason As are the capitals of noblemen’s palaces, „Bedouins“. why they were the ones to carry coffins And their talks; at funerals is not known. Supposedly, Yet a few of them have survived – From bygone times right up to today, very city has a service offering there were no official companies for the Along with the Church of St Blaise the Dubrovnik fakini have been diligent, its residents help in transporting job at the time, so each family organised And the memory of them! honest and above all hard-working things from one place to its own funerals. In addition to the people. Long may they continue to be E The porters were recruited from among the another. In tourist resorts, this service carrying of coffins at funerals, the fakini (Dubrovnik, 9 October 1938) so. poor dwellers of Primorje. They accepted every also helps tourists during their arrival, also carried out the burials until World job offered to them and even carried coffins departure and passing through the War II. (Bibliography: Vedran Benić, Niko Kučar, Ivo Perić, Mato Podić, with dead people. resort. They are porters, or fakini, in the Nada Skatolini, Ivo Vojnović, Nenad Vekarić and others) Dubrovnik dialect. That’s how it was in the City. How it The fakini, on the other hand, had precisely was in the port of Gruž, however, is Let us find out who the Dubrovnik determined jobs – only they were allowed best described in the following text fakini were from the porters (fakini) to unload goods from merchant ships in the by the well-known Croatian historian, of long ago who used to sit in front of City Port, which is why they were called writer and politician Ivan Kukuljević St Blaise’s Church after the fall of the the „fakini of Dogana (Customs House Sakcinski, who resided in Dubrovnik in Dubrovnik Republic, right up to those porters)“. Unlike the porters of Primorje, the 1856. Amongst other things, he wrote of World War II and the present day. fakini were men from the poor hinterland that „this journey has remained indelibly villages of Konavle. The work of the fakini In bygone times there were “ordinary porters“ imprinted in my memory“, although he required huge physical strength. Each of them and porters called ”fakini of Dogana”. portrayed the fakini in the following had to be capable of lifting a sack weighing It was easy to tell them apart. They sat words: „When we disembarked, the fakini – one hundred kilograms, the so called separately, each on his slab on the pavement who carried my luggage in front of me – took „bombajka“, carrying it, and putting it to the left and right of the steps of St Blaise’s me first of all to the Customs Office. Another down on the ground again. Those not strong Church. The fakini sat on the western side, one took me from there to a rented cart, while enough to do this could not become fakini of towards Pile, and the porters on the eastern a third took the luggage in order to put it on Dogana. The fakini kept their wooden carts side towards the Port. Namely, there was a a carriage. I had to pay these boring people in front of the columns of the Sponza Palace – strict difference between the porters and the every time and argue with them about the the Dogana (or Customs House). fakini. tip“.)

54 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 55 Napisala / By Sandra laCković Lopudska sirotica - Tragična ljubavna priča pučanke i vlastelina THE POOR GIRL OF LOPUD - The Tragic Love Story of a Plebeian Girl and an Aristocrat

egenda iz 15.stoljeća vodi nas a u jednom trenutku, kad je bljesnula voli svakodnevni plivački maraton od 15th century legend takes us to lovers hoped that the strength of their In the area of Bige, however, there is na Lopud, jedan od najljepših munja, ugledala je barku, svoju braću na Lopuda do Svetog Andrije. Dva otoka Lopud, one of the most beautiful love would overcome all the restrictions a ruin, the remains of which suggest Lelafitskih otoka. U kamenoj njoj i shvatila što su joj braća priredila. udaljena su dvije nautičke milje. Aof the Elafite islands. In a stone and obstacles. However, Ivo’s family that it used to be a dwelling. According ribarskoj kućici, u uvali Šunj, djevojka Iscrpljena, tužna i izdana, lopudska fishermen’s cottage in the bay of Šunj showed no understanding, and his to written evidence from 1473, Jakob Marija živjela je s trojicom braće. sirotica, utopila se. Zašto Ivo nije odlazio svojoj dragoj, there lived a girl called Marija with father opposed the shameful relationship Crijević was accused of having an affair with the girl he believed to be beneath with a married woman of Lopud and Roditelji su im umrli pa su braća sigurno bi mu bilo lakše otplivati četiri his son’s rank. After realizing that he sentenced to 10 years’ imprisonment on brinula o sestri. Igrom sudbine jedne Njezino mrtvo tijelo more je izbacilo nautičke milje od Svetog Andrije do would not get his father’s blessing, the island of St Andrew. Many people večeri od utapanja je spasila mladića na mjestu tajnih susreta mladih Lopuda i natrag. Zbog ljubavi smo Ivo retreated to a monastery on the believe that these facts confirm the poor koji je doživio brodolom u lopudskom ljubavnika. Ostatak života Ivo je proveo spremni na sve, ali, nekako mi se čini da island of St Andrew, which lay close girl of Lopud to be a historic person. akvatoriju. Kad je utopljenik došao k u samostanu, slomljen od tuge. žena uvijek izvuče deblji kraj. to Lopud. Nevertheless, overwhelmed sebi otkrilo se da je spasila život Ivanu, with love, he continued to see Marija Although Ivan Gundulić and Petar sinu uglednoga dubrovačkoga vlastelina. Lopud je od Dubrovnika udaljen 4 secretly. To be more precise, she used Preradović are among the authors who Marija ga je njegovala, pa iako se mladi milje, a pješčana plaža Šunj jedna je od to swim from Lopud to the island of have written about this, we are certainly vlastelin uspješno oporavljao, nije se najljepših na Jadranu. Iako rajsku plažu St Andrew following a signal Ivo gave talking about an archetypal tale which žurio napustiti skromnu ribarsku kućicu ljeti preplave turisti, taj je dio otoka her by lighting a fire on the coast. But is part of the tradition of many nations, na Lopudu. Između dvoje mladih rodila nenaseljen. U predjelu Bige nalazi se soon Marija’s brothers found out about passed down by word of mouth. The se ljubav. U Dubrovačkoj Republici ruševina čiji ostatci svjedoče da je riječ the secret. For them, the relationship tragic lovers motif has also inspired between their sister and the aristocrat many authors all over Europe. At the ljubav, kao i brak između vlastelina i o stambenome objektu. Postoje podatci was inappropriate too. Aiming to hide same time, the legend portrayed strict pučanke bili su zabranjeni. Zaljubljeni da je 1473. Jakob Crijević otpužen zbog the shame Marija’s affair brought upon social norms, and served as a warning Ivan i Marija nadali su se da će snaga ljubavne veze s udanom Lopuđankom, their family, they decided to kill her. to those who dared to disobey laws and njihove ljubavi nadjačati zabrane i pa je osuđen na 10 godina zatočeništva Because the law prevented them from customs. prepreke, ali Ivanova obitelj nije na Svetom Andriji. Za mnoge having the blood of their sister on their pokazivala razumijevanje – naročito ove činjenice potvrda su povijesne hands, they came up with a cunning Nowadays, the legend of the poor girl Ivanov otac koji se usprotivio po njemu utemeljenosti lopudske sirotice. plan: they lit a fire on a boat and lured of Lopud leaves a bitter taste in one’s sramotnoj vezi s djevojkom iz puka. her to swim, in spite of bad weather. mouth and sounds like a SF text. It is Kad je Ivan shvatio da neće dobiti očev Iako su o tome među ostalim pisali Believing that her beloved was calling incomprehensible that a relationship of blagoslov, odlazi u samostan na otoku Ivan Gundulić i Petar Preradović, riječ her, Marija kept on swimming, but two people is doomed because of the Sveti Andrija, nedaleko od Lopuda. je zasigurno o arhetipskoj priči koja her three brothers. Their parents had was unable to reach her goal. All of social difference between them, and it died and the brothers took care of their Njegova ljubav prema Mariji bila je je dio usmene predaje brojnih naroda. a sudden, in a flash of lightning, she is difficult to understand the brothers’ sister. One evening, by a twist of fate, caught a glimpse of the boat with the cruel betrayal. To be honest, it is presnažna, pa se nastavio tajno viđati Motiv tragičnih ljubavnika inspirirao Marija saved from drowning a young familiar faces in it and realised what completely unacceptable for me that a s Marijom. Ona je s Lopuda plivala na je i brojne autore diljem Europe. man who had been shipwrecked in the her brothers had been planning for her. man in love allows his beloved to swim a Svetog Andriju ravnajući se prema vatri Istodobno, legenda je progovarala o waters off Lopud. When the drowning Exhausted, sad and betrayed, Marija lost marathon between the islands of Lopud koju bi joj Ivo zapalio na obali. Ali, strogim društvenim normama, bilo je to man recovered, the girl discovered that her strength to swim and drowned. and St Andrew, which are two nautical uskoro su tajnu otkrila Marijina braća. upozorenje drznicima koji nisu poštovali she had saved the life of Ivan, the son miles apart. I za njih je veza sestre s vlastelinom zakone i običaje. of a respected Dubrovnik aristocrat. The sea washed her dead body ashore in bila neprimjerena, a da skriju sramotu, Marija looked after him, and, although the place where the young lovers used to Why wasn’t Ivo the one to go to his koju je Marijina zabranjena ljubav Danas legenda o lopudskoj sirotici the young nobleman was recovering meet. Heartbroken, Ivan spent the rest beloved? It would surely have been nanijela obitelji, odlučili su je ubiti. ostavlja gorak ukus i zvuči kao SF successfully, he was in no hurry to of his life in the monastery. easier for him to swim four nautical Službeno nisu smjeli okrvariti ruke štivo - nepojmljivo je da zbog razlike leave the modest fishermen’s cottage miles from St Andrew to Lopud and sestrinom krvlju , pa su skovali „lukav“ u društvenoj pripadnosti veza dvoje on the island. The young couple fell The island of Lopud is located 4 miles back. We are ready to do anything for in love. At the time of the Dubrovnik plan - na barci su zapalili vatru i tako ljudi bude osuđena na propast, teško je from Dubrovnik, and its sandy beach love, but, I somehow believe that it is Republic, a relationship between a Šunj is one of the most beautiful on the always the woman who gets the worst Mariju namamili da unatoč nevremenu pojmiti surovu izdaju braće... Iskreno, nobleman and a plebeian woman had Adriatic. Although this idyllic beach is of it… zapliva misleći da je dragi zove. Marija potpuno mi je neprihvatljivo da no chance. It was a forbidden love, and crowded with tourists in the summer, je uporno plivala prema svojoj ljubavi, zaljubljeni muškarac dopusti ženi koju such marriage was impossible. The two this part of the island is uninhabited.

56 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 57 Napisala / By silVa Capurso

Ukusna je, bogata bjelančevinama, Većinom se lovi mrežama plivaricama i za kalcijem i 20% dnevnih potreba ugljikohidratima, mastima, lebdećim koćama, a sve manje obalnim za vitaminom D. Sadrži značajnu vitaminima A, D i E. Tražena je ne potegačama i stajačicama. Ove dvije kombinaciju kalcija i vitamina D. I samo zbog hranjivih vrijednosti, već vrste ribolova postupno nestaju kao konzervirane srdele, tvz. Sardine, ne i zbog prihvatljive cijene. Jedna je od način lova na srdelu. Srećom, iako gube hranjive tvari. najjeftinijih riba koje se mogu nabaviti pojedini načini ribolova izumiru, srdela, Zbog okusa, hranjivosti, cijene i svježe. Najčešće se lovi mrežama stoljetna hraniteljica primorskoga brojnih načina pripreme i konzerviranja, plivaricama. kraja, ponovno dobija na značaju i nezamjenjiv je obrok i danas. Srdela Prava sezona lova na srdele počinje postaje sve popularnija. Jedan obrok (srđela) hraniteljica ostala je jednako početkom proljeća i traje do druge srdela osigurava: 10% dnevnih potreba popularna kroz stoljeća, sve do današnjih polovice jeseni. Ali srdele se love i zimi. za željezom, 40% dnevnih potreba dana.

– the Provider Fish

he sardine, poor people’s food to live by and from the sea are quite These two methods of sardine-catching or the queen of fish. Or both? happy with Croatian canned sardines. are slowly disappearing. Fortunately Precisely. And much more. - although certain ways of fishing are T Alongside anchovies and sprats, the This modest fish from the herring family slowly disappearing - the sardine, this The Sardinesardine is one of the most nutritious has fed the poor people of the Croatian fish that has fed the coastal region islands and coast for many centuries. small oily fish. It is rich in non- for many centuries is again becoming saturated amino acids omega-3 and Fishermen used to come to the city important and more popular. A sardine omega-6. This delicious fish is also meal includes: 10% of one’s daily needs port on a daily basis, with their boats rich in proteins, carbon hydrates, fats for iron, 40% of one’s daily needs for full of fish. The cheapest among them, and vitamins A, D and E. It is in great the sardine, was a high quality meal calcium and 20% of one’s daily needs demand not only for its nutritional for vitamin D. It also has an important (srđela) - riba hraniteljica acceptable to everybody. When larger value, but also for its reasonable price. in size, they were a royal meal for combination of calcium and vitamin One of the cheapest fish that can be D. Canned sardines do not lose their wealthy gentlefolk, while the smaller obtained fresh, it is most often caught ones were an equally good meal or snack nutritious properties. rdela (srđela), hrana siromaha i je kvalitetan i svakome prihvatljiv srdele u ulju, kao i marinirane. I danas by drift nets. for ordinary people and fishermen. The kraljica riba. Oboje? Baš tako. I obrok. Kad su bili bolji bokuni u se kupuju u lokalnim butigama, a Today - thanks to its taste, nutritional fresh and newly caught sardine is at its The actual sardine-catching season još, mnogo toga. Ova skromna pitanju bio je to kraljevski objed za finije onima koji nisu te sreće da žive uz more value, price and numerous ways of S most delicious grilled, whilst it is also begins in early spring and lasts until riba iz porodice haringi, kroz stoljeća gospare, a manji komadi jednako dobar i od mora, dobro dođe i konzervirana preparing and conserving - the sardine often boiled in the Dubrovnik area. the second half of autumn, but they je prehranjivala siromašno otočko objed ili marenda običnomu puku i hrvatska sardina. is still an irreplaceable meal today. Over Well known too are Dubrovnik sardines can also be caught in winter. Sardines Srdelastanovništvo obalne Hrvatske. ribarima. Onako freška, taman uhićena Srdela, zajedno s inćunima i papalinama, the course of the centuries, this provider steeped in oil, as well as marinated. are mostly caught by drift nets and Ribari su nekad u gradski porat najukusnija je s gradela, a nerijetko se je jedna o najhranjivijih malih fish has remained just as popular to this Today they are still bought in local floating trawl nets and less and less svakodnevno donosili pune barke ribe, a u dubrovačkome kraju i okolici spravlja plavih riba. Bogata je nezasićenim day. shops, and people not fortunate enough by coastal seine nets and fixed nets. najjeftinija među njima, srdela, značila i lešo. Poznate su i naše dubrovačke aminokiselinama omega-3 i omega-6.

58 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 59 Napisala / By lidiJa Crnčević - An Edible Beauty from the Sea Cliffs - Ljepotica s morskih hridi

In some other countries, samphire kad se bere u proljeće, prije cvatnje i to here are plants that are not is a highly valued plant that can na mjestima na kojima sama, pri dodiru, merely exotic, charming and be bought only in specialised plant pukne. Ukoliko se bere u nešto kasnijem Tfragrant adornments of nature nurseries. Although samphire grows godišnjem dobu, beru se samo listovi given to us to please the eye and soothe wild abundantly in the Dubrovnik area, kojima sunce i zrnca morske soli utisnu the soul while we observe them. A we hardly notice its beauty any more, jaču i oštriju aromu. Svježi listovi motara variety of plants that often grow wild in while the majority of passers-by still see mogu se jesti sirovi, ali se češće koriste u inaccessible and unreachable places are it merely as an unknown coastal plant namirnicama kao začini ili dodatci jelima seldom known to be edible. However, that pleases the eye. Still, this plant - nakon što odleže neko vrijeme u octu ili it is precisely because of their nutritious which grows wild in a quite inhospitable ulju. properties that they are becoming more and more appreciated ingredients, environment, but far away from all kinds Motar je u nekim drugim zemljama vrlo testifying to the excellence and versatility of urban pollution - is a lovely evergreen cijenjena biljka koju je moguće kupiti of the gastro experts who include them adornment of sea cliffs, as well as a samo u specijaliziranim rasadnicima, u in their menus. Without previous delight for the palate. dubrovačkom kraju imamo ga u prirodi knowledge, few people would identify Alongside the less known samphire, ostojeSamphire biljke koje nisu samo u izobilju, a njegovu ljepotu gotovo da this small green bush that adorns the a more familiar plant, rosemary, is egzotični, ljupki, mirisni ukrasi više i ne primjećujemo, dok ga još uvijek jagged sea cliffs - struck by the waves, widely used in Dubrovnik cuisine. Its prirode podareni nam samo većina prolaznika doživljava tek kao warmed by the sun and exposed to P squalls - as an edible plant with a specific name is derived from the Latin words kao ljepota oku i milost duši, dok ih nepoznatu, oku ugodnu obalnu floru. A ros and marinus – meaning „dew of the promatramo. Različito samoniklo bilje, ta samonikla biljka koja raste u uvjetima taste. In Croatia, it is called locally motar, sea“, which indicates that its growth is koje često raste na teško dostupnim i poprilično negostoljubivima za život, ali petrovac, šćulac and matar (or samphire in enhanced by a sea breeze. Rosemary is a nedohvatljivim mjestima, većini nije daleko od svakih vrsta urbanih zagađenja, English), while its Latin name is Critmum bushy perennial plant with small fragrant poznato kao jestivo, a upravo zbog svojih zeleni je svegodišnji ukras morskih hridi maritimum. Although we - the lucky Motar ones who manage to find rocky places evergreen leaves and small light blue nutritivnih svojstva postaje sve cjenjeniji koji godu oku, ali ni nepcu njezin okus flowers, native to Mediterranean regions sastojak čija upotreba svjedoči o vrsnosti mrzak nije. by the sea from which to have a dip, with plenty of sun and fresh sea air. i različitosti gastro znalaca na čijim se instead of from the crowded beaches The fragrance of rosemary flowers and jelovnicima nalaze. U malenom zelenom U dubrovačkoj kuhinji uz manje - often see samphire, it has not, until the flowery sprig tops is intensive and grmu koji krasi nazubljene morske hridi, poznati motar, često se koristi i poznatiji recently, been on the local menu, served reminiscent of camphor, while its taste udarane valovima, grijane suncem, ružmarin, čije ime potječe od latinskog as an accompaniment to fish, salted is sharp, slightly bitter and aromatic, podatne udarima bure, rijetko tko bi, bez ros i marinus – u prijevodu – morska or marinated anchovies, or in octopus therefore cooks and housewives are prethodnog znanja, prepoznao jestivu rosa što upućuje na to da je za njegov salad and similar dishes. Samphire’s careful with the quantities they use to biljku specifičnog okusa. U narodu je rast vrlo povoljan i poželjan povjetarac unique taste will make each mouthful season their dishes. Rosemary flowers, zovu motar, petrovac, šćulac ili matar, s mora. Ružmarin je grmolika trajna a particular delight for gourmands and leaves and sprigs contain essential latinski joj je naziv Critmum maritimum. biljka mirisnih zimzelenih listića sa all those who like to taste something oils, whose quality depends on the Iako je mi sretnici, koji ljeti uspijemo naći svjetloplavim cvjetićima, karakteristična different. climate, the most suitable being sunny stijenovita mjesta, umjesto prenapučenih je za mediteranske krajeve, bogate This bush with its small fleshy leaves is and protected areas. For more than plaža, za osvježenje u moru, često suncem, osvježene morskim zrakom. at its best whilst in bloom, adorning the a thousand year, rosemary has been a susrećemo, sve donedavno, nismo je Miris cvjetova i cvjetnih vrhova grančica shore with its yellowish-greenish flowers, highly valued herb and natural medicine. mogli vidjeti u domaćoj gastro ponudi, je jak i nalik na kamfor, dok je okus ljut, and conjuring up a fascinating sight: as if Throughout history, rosemary has been na tanjuru uz ribu, slane ili marinirane pomalo gorak i aromatičan, stoga će svaki someone has sketched small meadows full a very popular plant connected with inćune, u salati od hobotnice i sličnim kuhar i domaćica biti pažljiv s količinom of tender little flowers in the small niches numerous stories, such as the one that jelima. Jedinstveni okus te biljke svaki koju stavlja u jela. U cvjetovima, of sea cliffs. Samphire flowers in summer, says students in Ancient Greece used to će zalogaj učiniti specifičnim užitkom za listovima i grančicama ružmarin sadrži from July to October, and it is not good wear it on their heads when preparing for gurmane i sve one koji vole probati nešto eterična ulja, čija kvaliteta ovisi o klimi to gather it at this time. It is said to their exams, because it had a reputation drukčije. i o sunčanim i zaštićenim položajima. Više od tisuću godina cijenjeni je začin i be at its most delicious when picked in for improving the memory. In medieval Grm ove biljke mesnatih manjih listova, prirodni lijek. Kroz povijest je ružmarin spring, before blossoming, when the stem England, rosemary was a symbol of najljepši je dok cvjeta i svojim žućkasto- bio vrlo omiljena biljka uz koju se breaks off by itself when touched. Later fidelity, and wedding guests would wear zelenkastim cjetovima ukrašava obale, ispredaju brojne priče poput one da su in the season, people only pick the leaves a sprig of rosemary during wedding dočaravajući fascinantni prizor - kao da je ga u Grčkoj studenti stavljali na glavu which the sun and grains of sea salt have ceremonies. This is also a Croatian u malenim udubinama morskih hridina kada su pripremali ispite, jer se vjerovalo imbued with a more intense and sharper custom. netko nacrtao i rascvjetao omanju livadu da jača pamćenje. U staroj Engleskoj aroma. Fresh samphire leaves can be punu nježnih cvjetića. Motar je u cvijetu ružmarin je bio simbol vjernosti, pa je iz eaten raw, but are more often used as ljeti, od srpnja do listopada i tada nije toga nastao običaj da se na svadbi odjeća spices or added to dishes after being kept pogodan za branje. Najukusniji je, kažu, kiti ružmarinom. To je i hrvatski običaj. in vinegar or oil for a time.

60 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 61 Napisala MaJa rilović kopriveC

Photo: Boris Bašić

Chasers Dubrovnik“ na kojoj imaju Dubrovački lovci na oluje surađuju od bi i na Facebooku mogli objavljivati foto tisuće lajkova. Prenose ih hrvatske 2011., no svi su se godinama ranije radove, no tijekom vremena proširili su Oni su i svjetske publikacije i portali - bavili fotografiranjem prirode. Kako ih djelatnost na prognoziranje vremena, National Geografic, CNN, Huffington nije vezivala samo fotografija, nego i postavljanje automatskih meteoroloških Post... Njihove fotografije česte gotovo identični motivi fotografiranja, postaja i ostalih uređaja. - Osjećam su pobjednice na meteorološkim i nije im bilo teško međusobno se se nekako počašćen, zapravo sretan što pejzažnim foto natječajima, a nedavno „otkriti“ na Internetu. Grupu je, živim u Dubrovniku. Prizori Grada pred dubrovački lovci su čak dvije Danijelove fotografije oduševljen prirodom i njezinom ljetnu neveru kada mu “prijete” munje izašle u službenom kalendaru Svjetske surovom snagom otvorio Hrvoje, kako meteorološke organizacije (WMO) za na oluje! 2015. godinu!

otografija Dubrovnika na kojoj se osunčan kameni grad Foslikava u kristalno bistrom moru, obavezna veduta s turističkih razglednica - nije ono što njih zanima. Oni su Dubrovački lovci na oluje – oni vole fotografirati Dubrovnik iz sasvim drugačije perspektive. Dubrovnik zapljusnut orkanskim objektive i jure na obližnja brda kako bi jugom, neba osvijetljena munjama, ovjekovječili dinamične, nikad jednake tvrđava zagrljenih maglom... Kada prirodne pojave oko Dubrovnika. prognostičari najave mogućnost nevremena na dubrovačkom području Jedinstven naboj između skladne planetarnu popularnost. Očaravajuće Hrvoje Batinić, Boris Bašić, Zlatko arhitekture i neukrotive prirode. fotografije, uz svakodnevnu vlastitu Barać i Daniel Pavlinović skupljaju To je motiv koji je ovoj skupini interpretaciju vremenske prognoze svoju foto-opremu, namještaju dubrovačkih meteofotografa, donio objavljuju na Facebook profilu „Storm

62 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 63 By MaJa rilović kopriveC sa svih strana ili pijavice u neposrednoj fotografije, to je ono je što ovu grupu je dodaje, u samom vrhu po broju pojava blizini srednjovjekovnih zidina prava su entuzijasta privlači i pokreće, a njihove munja u Hrvatskoj, i široj regiji. Na inspiracija. Grad je sam po sebi remek- fotografije čini atraktivnima i rijetkima. moru oko Dubrovnika morske pijavice djelo arhitekture, a potruditi se da na Svatko od njih ima ‘nešto svoje’ u se pojavljuju daleko češće nego drugdje. They are fotografijama izgleda ponovno drugačiji radu pa i kada se vrate s istog ‘lova na Zbog otvorenosti prema moru, po jugu je motivator za ono čime se bavim – oluje’, svačije fotografije jednaki motiv imamo veće valove od bilo kojeg drugog kaže Boris. prikazuju na drugačiji način. grada u Dalmaciji, a i bura ovdje ima Dubrovnik Storm Chasers! svoje čari. Dubrovnik je raj za ljubitelje Uhvatiti nepredvidive i vremenske - Dubrovačko vrijeme je fascinantno! meteorologije i meteofotografije, tvrde neprilike u impresivnom krajoliku Vremenske prilike su često dinamične. Dubrovački lovci na oluje. Dubrovnika, njegove divlje arhetipske Kiša možda neće padati dugo kao Svakako, njihov je ‘olujni’ Dubrovnik pejzaže, dinamičke meteorološke primjerice u Londonu, ali će padati drugačiji nego na razglednicama, ali događaje u kojima fotograf zapravo ne znatno intenzivnije, a iza će brzo zasjati svejedno, jednako je prelijep. kontrolira kadar, balansiranje između sunce – objašnjava Danijel. Dubrovnik vlastite sigurnosti i atraktivnosti

photograph of Dubrovnik with the sunlit stone city reflected Ain the crystal clear sea, the usual panorama on tourist postcards – this is not what interests them. They are Dubrovnik’s storm chasers who On a daily basis, they upload their love to photograph Dubrovnik from fascinating photographs with their own a completely different perspective: interpretation of the weather forecast photographs of nature. Linked not only Dubrovnik washed by the gale force on their „Storm Chasers Dubrovnik“ by photography but also by almost true inspiration. The City itself is an south wind jugo, the sky illuminated Facebook profile that has thousands of identical motifs, it was not difficult architectural masterpiece, and trying by flashes of lightning, the fortresses likes. They are broadcast by Croatian for them to „discover“ each other on to make it look different again on them has his own style of work, so that embraced by mist… When weather and world renowned publications and the Internet. Fascinated by nature and photographs is a motivator for what I – even when they return from the same Dubrovnik far more frequently than forecasters announce the possibility of portals such as National Geographic, its raw power, the Group was started do – says Boris. “storm chasing” – their photographs elsewhere. Being exposed to the open bad weather in the Dubrovnik area, CNN, Huffington Post... Their by Hrvoje so that they could publish Capturing unpredictable bad depict the same motif in a different way. sea, Dubrovnik has bigger waves caused Hrvoje Batinić, Boris Bašić, Zlatko photographs are frequent winners their works on Facebook as well. In the weather conditions in the impressive by the south wind jugo than any other Barać and Daniel Pavlinović grab their in meteorological and landscape course of time, however, they expanded environment of Dubrovnik, its wild - Dubrovnik weather is fascinating! The city in Dalmatia. The north wind bura photo equipment, adjust their lenses photography competitions. Two their activity to weather forecasting, and archetypal landscapes, the dynamic weather conditions are often dynamic. too has a magic of its own in this area. and run to the nearby hills to eternalise of Daniel’s photographs have even to installing automatic weather stations meteorological events when the It might not rain as long as it does in Dubrovnik’s „storm chasers“ believe the dynamic and ever differing natural been published recently in the World and other devices. photographer does not actually London, for instance, but it will rain their city to be a paradise for lovers phenomena around Dubrovnik. Meteorological Organisation (WMO) official calendar for 2015! - I somehow feel honoured and happy control his frame, balancing between more intensively, soon after which the of meteorology and meteorological The unique conflict between gracious to live in Dubrovnik. The images his own safety and the photograph’s sun will appear – explains Daniel. He photography. architecture and untameable nature is The Dubrovnik storm chasers have of the City before a summer storm attractiveness – that is what actually adds that Dubrovnik is among the cities the motif that has brought planetary been collaborating since 2011. Before when „threatened“ by lightning from fascinates and moves this group with the largest amount of lightning Of course, their „stormy Dubrovnik“ is popularity to this group of Dubrovnik that, however, all of them had for many all sides, or by waterspouts in close of enthusiasts and makes their flashes in Croatia and the wider region. different from that on the postcards, but meteorological photographers. years already been engaged in taking proximity to the medieval walls, are a photographs appealing and rare. Each of Waterspouts appear in the sea around is magnificent nevertheless.

64 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 65 10.-11. SVIBNJA 2015. “Dubrovnik Half Marathon” Dubrovački polumaraton May 10-11 2015

ubrovački polumaraton” događaj UNESCO World Heritage Site. The terrain “Dje koji će se realizirati u svibnju is very attractive for marathon running, es- 2015. godine i predstavlja novi sportsko - pecially the 2K (two kilometres) race with a turistički sadržaj mjeseca svibnja u našem limited number of participants who will run Gradu. Atraktivnost ovog novog sportskog along the top of the city walls, Dubrovnik’s događaja temeljena je na činjenici da je major attraction. The 21.1 km long Half Dubrovnik - grad domaćin dio UNESCO-ve Marathon route starts at Ploče, continues svjetske zaštićene kulturne baštine , smješten samog sportskog događanja, putem trčanja through Pile up to Kantafig, turns by the na terenu vrlo atraktivnom za maratonsko promovirat će se zdravi stilovi života , sve u ACI Marina in Komolac, and ends in the trčanje, a posebno što će se 2K (dvok- “zagrljalju” povijesnih Stradun, the city’s most beautiful venue. ilometarska ) utrka s ograničenim brojem spomenika, uz klapsku pjesmu i blagoslov With the motto “More than a race”, this new sudionika održati na dubrovačkim zidinama, sveca zaštitnika Dubrovnika - sv.Vlaha - kao event has been planned as more than an or- najznačajnijoj dubrovačkoj atrakciji. Ruta elemenata zaštićene nematerijalne baštine u dinary sporting event, while the running will polumaratona duga je 21.1 km , kreće s okrilju UNESCO -a. promote a healthy life style - enhanced by Ploča, prolazi područjem od Pila do Kantafi- Dubrovnik’s historic monuments, accompa- ga s okretom pokraj ACI marine u Komolcu he Dubrovnik Half Marathon, organised nied by klapa songs and with the blessing of i ciljem na najljepšem mogućem mjestu - na in May 2015, is a new sports and tour- the city’s heavenly protector, St Blaise. Stradunu. S motom “Više od utrke” ovo istT event in our city. Its appeal is based on događanje , kako je zamišljeno, bit će više od the fact that Dubrovnik, the host city, is a www.dubrovnikinternationalhalfmarathon.com ajuspješniji projekt TZ grada Du- Nbrovnika u 2014. u novom će izdanju donijeti niz novosti i zanimljivih programa gastronomskog predznaka . Kroz više dana programa organizirat će se prezentacije DUTY kulinarskih specijaliteta tipičnih za naše podneblje, kuharica na engleskom jeziku, FREE DUTY FREE SHOPPING? programa za djecu, kušanje regionalnih NO PROBLEM!!! vina, kulinarske radionice, te ostali pro- You can fly grami poput „Večere s poznatim chefom“, SHOP with all you radionice pripremanja dubrovačkih gulozeca, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr buy! posebni jelovnici u dubrovačkim restoranima, tel: +385 (20) 773-333 „Eat&Walk“ gastro ture, „Sweet Tooth Map“ – mapa za sladokusce i druga iznenadjenja.

s the Dubrovnik Tourist Board’s most Asuccessful project in 2014, the new season of this festival will feature a large number of new and interesting gastronomic programmes. This will include presentations of culinary specialties of the region, cook- books in English, programmes for children, tasting of regional wines, culinary workshops and other events such as “Dinner with a Famous Chef“ and workshops for preparing typical Dubrovnik sweet delicacies, “Eat & Walk“ gastro tours, a “Sweet Tooth Map“ for gourmands and other surprises.

Photo: Katija Živković

The Pucić Palace Od Puča 1, 20000 Dubrovnik Tel : +385 20 326 222 Fax : +385 20 326 223 email: [email protected]

FEEL THE SPIRIT OF DUBROVNIK ARISTOCRACY IN PUCIC PALACE

66 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 67 DOGAĐANJA U DUBROVNIKU 2O15.

29. SIJEČNJA – 2. VELJAČE 2015. 21. – 30. OŽUJKA 2015. 20. – 26. TRAVNJA 2015. 15. LIPNJA – 5. RUJNA. 2015. 20. LIPNJA DO 4. SRPNJA 2015. 10. SRPNJA – 25. KOLOVOZA 2015. FESTA DUBROVNIK DANI KRŠĆANSKE KULTURE DUBROVNIK FESTIWINE MALI GLAZBENI FESTIVAL MIDSUMMER SCENE 66. DUBROVAČKE U DUBROVNIKU www.dubrovnikfestiwine.com PARK ORSULA 2015 http://midsummer-scene.com/ LJETNE IGRE Humanitarna zabavno – galzbena www.danikrscanskekulture.info www.parkorsula.du-hr.net www.dubrovnik-festival.hr manifestacija već se dugi niz godina Regionalni vinski festival Dubrovnik Midsummer Scene je novi festival održava koncem siječnja, uz tradicionalnu FestiWine koji će se u travnju oržati pokrenut prošle godine, a predstavlja i Dubrovačke ljetne igre i ove će godine dubrovačku zimsku proslauv – Festu Dani kršćanske kulture 2015. nastavljaju po drugi put u Dubrovniku nudi platformu za buduće slične međunarodne okupiti ponajbolje dramske, glazbene, sv.Vlaha i Dan Grada Dubrovnika. Zabavno tradiciju započetu 2005. godine. mogućnost kušanja lokalnih vina umjetničke koncepte i suradnje. baletne, folklorne, likovne i filmske glazbeni program redovito je sačinjen od I ove godine u Splitu, Dubrovniku, u Dubrovniku,upoznavanje punine Na jednoj od najljepših ambijetalnih umjetnike iz cijelog svijeta. Zasnovane na ponajboljih hrvatskih izvođača, uz likovne Šibeniku i Zadru bogat kulturni i duhovni okusa crnih i bijelih vina uzgojenih na pozornica - dubrovačkoj tvrđavi bogatoj i živoj baštini Grada Dubrovnika, izložbe, radionice i kušaonice regionalinih program obilježava suncem i solju okupanim padinama Lovrjenac ove će se godine izvoditi Igre 65. godinu za redom u razdoblju od vina. Festa za krajnji cilj ima humanitarnu devet dana manifestacije kojoj je cilj Pelješca i plodnom tlu konavoskog jedna od najpoznatijih i najizvođenijih 10. srpnja do 25. kolovoza postaju sjecište namjenu pomoći najpotrebnijima i obnovi promicanje i ukazivanje na ona djela, vinogorja. Festival će okupiti više od Jedinstven prostor otet zaboravu Shakespearovih komedija Na tri kralja hrvatskog i svjetskog duha i kulture. Crkve sv.Vlaha. autore i događaje na kojima je izgrađena 100 regionalnih vinara koji će imati entuzijazmom udruge Ambient Croatia, – „Twelfth Night“na engleskom jeziku, europska kultura i na čijim temeljima stoji mogućnost svoja vina predstaviti brojnim opremljen i prilagođen za glazbeno u međunarodnoj suradnji engleskih i i hrvatska kulturna baština. vinskim profesionalcima i posjetiteljima. -scenska događanja nudi pregršt hrvatskih kazališnih umjetnika. 10. SRPNJA –1. RUJNA 2015. 1.- 9. VELJAČE 2015. Uspješnost vinara ocjenjivat će raznovrsnih koncertnih zbivanja domaćih i ZVIJEZDE POD ZVIJEZDAMA FESTA SV.VLAHA međunarodni ocjenjivački sud. Kroz inozemnih izvođača. www.alh.hr www.dubrovnik.hr 26. – 29. OŽUJKA 2015. stručne radionice, pod nazivom Vino u Riječ je o povijesnom lokalitetu Crkvice 1. SRPNJA –31. KOLOVOZA 2015. 11. MEDITERANSKI SAJAM turizmu, naši i inozemni stručnjaci prenijet sv. Orsule, koji je nakon 200 godina otet LJETO NA ELAFITIMA, U ZDRAVE PREHRANE, će svoja znanja i iskustva u cilju što zaboravu i oko koje je napravljen scenski ZATONU I ORAŠCU LJEKOVITOG BILJA I uspješnijeg uključivanja vina u turističku i prostor s prekrasnim pogledom na staru www.tzdubrovnik.hr ZELENOG PODUZETNIŠTVA ugostiteljsku ponudu gradsku jezgru, udaljen od centra Grada www.mediteranski-sajam.com svega par kilometara amifetatrom od 250 U organizaciji Grada Dubrovnika i sjedećih mjesta. Turističke zajednice Grada, na Elafitskim 10.-11- SVIBNJA 2015. Sajam zdrave hrane, ljekovitog bilja i otocima, u Zatonu i Orašcu upriličit će se, zelenog poduzetništva se smatra jednim Dubrovački polumaraton kao i već dugi niz godina dosada, zabavno- od najvažnijih sajmova organske prehrane www.dubrovnikinternationalhalfmarathon.com 21. LIPNJA 2015. glazbeni programi s ciljem obogaćivanja Jadranski luksuzni hoteli pripremaju u Hrvatskoj i svake godine privlači sve GLAZBENO – SCENSKI turističke ponude. Za tradicionalnih kvalitetan ljetni program na Dubrovčani već više od tisuću godina slave veći broj izlagača i domaćih i stranih „Dubrovački polumaraton“ događaj je koji FESTIVAL “ANA U GRADU” pučkih festa i blagdana na Koločepu, spektakularnim lokacijama uz more blagdan svoga zaštitnika sv. Vlaha na čiji posjetitelja... će se realizirati u svibnju 2015. godine www.anaugradu.com Lopudu i Šipanu, kao i u Zatonu i Orašcu dubrovačkih hotela Excelsior, Grand Ville dan širom otvaraju vrata svoga Grada. U i predstavlja novi sportsko – turistički osmišljeno je tridesetak priredbi za dobru Argentina, Dubrovnik Palace, Croatia i čast svetoga Vlaha i Dana Grada sadržaj mjeseca svibnja u našem Gradu. Vikend festival Ana u Gradu predstavlja zabavu i ugodnu atmosferu. Bellevue. Ovi otvoreni atraktivni prostori Dubrovnika održavaju se brojna kulturna, 10.- 12. TRAVNJA 2015. Atraktivnost ovog novog sportskog mladu umjetnicu, vrsnu violončelisticu dubrovačkih hotela ponovno će poslužiti zabavna, glazbena i sportska događanja. AKLAPELA –SMOTRA KLAPA događaja temeljena je na činjenici da je prepoznatljivog kao prekrasne, prirodne scenografije na Dubrovnik – grad domaćin dio UNESCO Festa dubrovačkog zaštitnika, dan koji www.aklapela.hr glazbenog stila Anu Rucner u dvojakoj 01. – 04. SRPNJA 2015. kojima će se odvijati originalni koncertni podsjeća da svetac koji Dubrovnik čuva na –ve svjetske zaštićene kulturne baštine , ulozi klasične glazbenice i crossover DUBROVAČKI nastupi, kreativne zabave, prateći partiji.. dlanu vječno bdije nad njegovom smješten na terenu vrlo atraktivnom za instrumentalistice. MEĐUNARODNI OPERNI maratonsko trčanje, a posebno što će se slobodom, uvrštena je 2009. u registar Ideja ovog kratkog festivala je da, već pri FESTIVAL nematerijalne baštine UNESCO-a. 2K (dvokilometarska ) utrka s ograničenim početku ljetne glazbene sezone, u Grad www.dubrovnik-opera-festival.com 12. SRPNJA –16. KOLOVOZA 2015. brojem sudionika održati na dubrovačkim donese ponešto za svakoga. DIVLJA LIGA zidinama, najznačajnijoj dubrovačkoj www.divljaliga.com 13.– 17. VELJAČE 2015. atrakciji.Ruta polumaratona duga je 21.1 DUBROVAČKI KARNEVO km, kreće s Ploča, prolazi područjem od 18. –21. LIPNJA 2015. Međusobni susreti vaterpolskih družina s Pila do Kantafiga s okretom pokraj ACI kupališta počeli su daleke 1922. godine. I naši su stari ludovali, pa možemo i mi LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU marine u Komolcu i ciljem na najljepšem Povremeno su se prekidali i nastavljali. ... izreka je koja se u Dubrovniku čuje u THEATRE mogućem mjestu – na Stradunu. S motom I kad su se početkom 80-ih godina veljači u vremenu karnevalskih svečanosti, je godišnja smotra najvrjednijih klapskih www.lepetitfestival.com „Više od utrke“ ovo događanje , kako je prošlog stoljeća (tisućljeća) mnogi već vremenu kad je sve dopušteno, kad ljudi ostvarenja kroz održavanje nekoliko zamišljeno, bit će više od samog sportskog bili pomirili s činjenicom kako je lijepa postaju netko drugi ili pak pokazuju komornih koncerata odabranih hrvatskih Le Petit Festival du Theatre je poseban i događanja, putem trčanja promovirat će tradicija zauvijek prekinuta, Ivo Kolić svoje pravo lice... Tijekom karnevala u muških i ženskih klapa. Namjera je prepoznatljiv kulturni događaj na kojem se se zdravi stilovai života, sve u “zagrljalju” je zasukao rukave. Priključili su mu se i Dubrovniku osjetite posebnu atmosferu omogućavanje koncertnih izvedbi na predstavljaju umjetnici i umjetnički talenti Festival nosi ime i organizira se u znak povijesnih spomenika, uz klapsku kupači s Porporele. Skupili novac, kupili šale, smijeha, veselja, radosti, satire…. način istovjetan ili blizak izvornom iz cijeloga svijeta. Le Petit Festival svake sjećanja na svjetski poznatog opernog pjesmu i blagoslov sveca zaštitnika bare i plutače, napravili teren. Pokupili u osjetite posebni duh Grada u vrijeme načinu stvaranja i izvođenja tradicionalne godine podiže zastor otkrivajući kreacije pjevača, tenora Tina Pattieru veliko Dubrovnika – sv.Vlaha – kao elemenata Gružu, od Juga, pokoju staru loptu i kapicu Karnevala! hrvatske klapske pjesme. pažljivo izabranih i talentiranih umjetnika i slavno ime europskih i svjetskih zaštićene nematerijalne baštine u okrilju bilo da su oni pjesnici, glumci, plesači ili opernih kuća prve polovice 20. stoljeća. te krenuli s natjecanjem.Tradicija se UNESCO–a. nešto sasvim drugo, te je proteklih godina Na festivalu, koji ponovno donosi očuvala. Danas je Prvenstvo dubrovačkih u sklopu ovog festivala u Dubrovniku Dubrovniku velike svjetske arije izvode kupališta u vaterpolu najveće amatersko sudjelovalo stotinjak umjetnika iz cijeloga se djela najznačajnijih opernih autora uz vaterpolsko natjecanje na svijetu. Više svijeta. gostovanja znanih međunarodnih opernih od 40-ak sastava svake godine početkom zvijezda. srpnja, uskače u more, te počinje utrku za naslovom prvaka.

68 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 69 4. –14. KOLOVOZA 2015. 2. – 4. LISTOPADA 2015. PROSINAC –SIJEČANJ 2016. LJETNA ŠKOLA FILMA ispred Crkve sv. Vlaha BOŽIĆNI SAJAM ŠIPAN FESTIVAL PEKMEZA, DŽEMA 2O15 DUBROVNIK EVENTS sipan-film.com I MARMELADE 29 JANUARY – 2 FEBRUARY 2015 21 – 30 MARCH 2015 20 – 26 APRIL 2015 Na otoku Šipanu svakog ljeta održava se Manifestacija se održava u ozračju FESTA DUBROVNIK DAYS OF CHRISTIAN DUBROVNIK FESTIWINE ljetna filmska škola i filmski festival pod očuvanja kulture, baštine i tradicije CULTURE IN DUBROVNIK www.dubrovnikfestiwine.com nazivom ‘’Ljetna škola filma Šipan’’. na Stradunu ispred crkve Sv. Vlaha. This entertainment- and music event has www.danikrscanskekulture.info Manifestacija ima međunarodni karakter Izlagači u narodnim nošnjama kraja been held for many years in late January, The Days of Christian Culture 2015 The regional wine festival Dubrovnik budući da filmovi, sudionici u programu i iz kojeg dolaze, iz svih županija alongside the traditional Festival of St continue a tradition established in 2005. FestiWine, which will take place for a gosti festivala stižu iz Njemačke, Hrvatske, Hrvatske, predstavljaju svoje proizvode Blaise and the City of Dubrovnik Day. In This year too, in the cities of Split, second time in Dubrovnik in April, offers Bosne i Hercegovine, Slovenije i Velike posjetiteljima i ugostiteljima Dubrovnika addition to the entertainment and music Dubrovnik, Šibenik and Zadar, an an opportunity to taste local wines and Unescov grad svjetske baštine Dubrovnik, Britanije. Pod pokroviteljstvom Grada koji će upotrebom ovih izvornih delicija programme featuring Croatia’s finest extensive cultural and spiritual nine-day get to know the rich flavour of red and u prosinačko blagdansko vrijeme zasjat Dubrovnika, filmski festival u Šipanskoj oplemeniti i obogatiti svoju gastro performers, there will also be exhibitions programme will be held to mark an event white wines cultivated on the sun- and Luci traje od 4. do 14. kolovoza, a na ponudu. će okićen svjećicama stvarajući ugođaj of paintings, workshops and wine tastings. aimed at promoting the works, authors salt-bathed slopes of Pelješac and the njemu se prikazuje desetak odabranih bajkovitog renesansnog grada. U mjesecu The Festa aims at collecting humanitarian and events that have laid the foundations fertile soil of the Konavle vineyards. The filmskih naslova. ‘’Ljetna Škola filma darivanja održat će se Božićni sajam, help for those who need it most, and for of European culture, on which the festival will bring together more than Šipan’’ u obzir uzima specifičnu situaciju 10. –25. LISTOPADA 2015. na kojem će se predstaviti tradicijski the restoration of St Blaise’s Church. Croatian cultural heritage is also based. 100 regional winemakers who will have jednog dalmatinskog otoka. Zimi Tenis tereni Sportskog tenis kluba obrti koji će izložiti svoje rukotvorine, the chance to present their wines to zatvorena sredina, u ljetnim mjesecima Dubrovnik i tenis tereni HTC Babin -kuk božićne ukrase, svijeće, igračke, staklo, numerous wine professionals and visitors. kroz kino komunicira sa cijelim svijetom. MEĐUNARODNI TENIS vez, keramiku i porculan i sve ono što 1 – 9 FEBRUARY 2015 26 – 29 MARCH 2015 The success of the vintners will be judged Školarci sa Šipana stvaraju skupa TURNIRI je kreativna umjetnička ruka izradila za FESTIVAL OF ST BLAISE 11th MEDITERRANEAN by an international jury. Croatian and sa vršnjacima iz Meksika, Engleske, ITF MENS FUTURES – blagdanske dane. Ugostitelji će nuditi www.dubrovnik.hr HEALTH FOOD, MEDICINAL foreign experts will hold professional božićne kolačiće i slastice, kuhano Francuske, Njemačke, Slovenije, Bosne i SENIORI HERBS AND GREEN workshops, under the name of Wine in Hercegovine, SAD-a, Italije, Brazila, Finske. vino, bruštulane mjendule (bademe u Tourism, through which they will pass on ITF WOMENS CIRCUIT For more than a thousand years, the ENTREPRENEURSHIP FAIR Za domaću pozornost ovog projekta šećeru), tradicionalne dubrovačke slastice people of Dubrovnik have celebrated their knowledge and experience with the www.mediteranski-sajam.com proteklih godina pobrinula su se zvučna -kontonjatu, mantalu, prikle, hrostule i aim of promoting the inclusion of wine in Jedan od prestižnih sportskih događaja u their patron saint’s day, the Festival of St imena gostiju i predavača iz samog vrha druge delicije koje se pripremaju za ovo the tourist and catering offer. Dubrovniku, međunarodnog karaktera, na Blaise, when they fling the gates of their hrvatske i regijske kinematografije svečarsko vrijeme. kojemu su se na početcima svojih karijera city wide open. In honour of the Festival and the Day of the City of Dubrovnik, ogledala velika imena ženskog i muškog 26. KOLOVOZA – 21. RUJNA 2015. numerous cultural, entertainment, music 10 – 11 May 2015 tenisa Hrvatske i Europe i koji brojem 31. PROSINCA 2015. and sports events are organised. The DUBROVNIK HALF GLAZBENI FESTIVAL – sudionika i interesom sportske javnosti DOČEK NOVE GODINE Festival of St Blaise, the saint who forever DUBROVNIK U POZNO potvrđuje svoj status prestižnog teniskog MARATHON watches over Dubrovnik, shielding the city LJETO turnira za mlađe generacije. NA STRADUNU www.dso.hr in the palm of his hand, was included in UNESCO’s List of the Intangible Cultural Festival koji će trajati do polovice rujna Heritage of Humanity in 2009. 23.-25-LISTOPADA The Mediterranean Health poznog ljeta pokrenuo je Dubrovački GOOD FOOD FESTIVAL 2015 Food, Medicinal Herbs & Green simfonijski orkestar kako bi glazbeno www.tzdubrovnik.hr 13 – 17 FEBRUARY 2015 Entrepreneurship Fair is considered one – kulturna živost u UNESCO-vom of the most important organic food and Dubrovniku bila prisutna i nakon završetka DUBROVNIK CARNIVAL small business fairs of the kind in Croatia, Dubrovačkih ljetnih igara. Dubrovački 2015 attracting every year a larger number simfonijski orkestar , devedesetogodišnji www.tzdubrovnik.hr The Dubrovnik Half Marathon, organised of participants and both national and vitalni nositelj dubrovačke glazbene in May 2015, is a new sports and tourist international visitors. scene, prestižna imena europske glazbene Posebnost Dubrovnika, uz prebogatu event in our city. Its appeal is based on scene, najbolja ostvarenja slavnih povijest i kulturno naslijeđe, čini i najluđa the fact that Dubrovnik, the host city, is a zabava uz doček Nove godine koja se u UNESCO World Heritage Site. The terrain skladatelja u očaravajućem ambijentu 10 – 12 APRIL 2015 Kneževog dvora prava su poslastica za gradu pod Srđem organizira od 1995. i is very attractive for marathon running, svrstava naš Grad među najatraktivnije AKLAPELA (Dalmatian especially the 2K (two kilometres) race ljubitelje glazbene umjetnosti. NajuspJešniji projekt TZ grada Dubrovnika destinacije za izvrstan provod u najdužim Songs Festival) with a limited number of participants who u 2014. u novom će izdanju donijeti noćima. Brojni posjetitelji Dubrovnika, www.aklapela.hr will run along the top of the city walls, 24. –27. RUJNA 2015. niz novosti i zanimljivih programa Novu će 2014. godinu dočekati uz bogat Dubrovnik’s major attraction. The 21.1 km WINE & JAZZ FESTIVAL gastronomskog predznaka . Kroz više dana zabavno -glazbeni program koji jedino u long Half Marathon route starts at Ploče, www.dubrovnikwinejazz.com programa organizirat će se prezentacije Gradu pod Srđem traje već od jutarnjih Our ancestors also had fun, and so continues through Pile up to Kantafig, kulinarskih specijaliteta tipičnih za naše sati 31. prosinca. should we... is a proverb you can hear in turns by the ACI Marina in Komolac, Jedinstveni dubrovački festival „Wine podneblje, kuharica na engleskom Dubrovnik during the carnival in February, and ends in the Stradun, the city’s & Jazz festival“ , postao je enogastro- jeziku, programa za djecu, kušanje a time when everything is allowed, most beautiful venue. With the motto kulturna atrakcija za sve štovatelje regionalnih vina, kulinarske radionice, “More than a race”, this new event has umjetnosti, jazz-a, finog vina i autohtone when people become someone else or te ostali programi poput „Večere s show their true faces... Experience the been planned as more than an ordinary dalmatinske kuhinje. Dubrovnik poznatim chefom“, radionice pripremanja special atmosphere of the Dubrovnik sporting event, while the running will International Wine & Jazz Festivala ističe dubrovačkih gulozeca, posebni jelovnici carnival festivities with its jokes, laughter, promote a healthy life style - enhanced Dubrovnik na karti zanimljivih europskih u dubrovačkim restoranima, „Eat&Walk“ merriment, joy, satire… feel the special The Aklapela is an annual festival by Dubrovnik’s historic monuments, i hrvatskih rujanskih događanja, u vrlo gastro ture, „Sweet Tooth Map“ – mapa za spirit of the City at carnival time! featuring Croatia’s finest male and female accompanied by klapa songs and with the intenzivnom turističkom mjesecu i sladokusce i druga iznenadjenja. vocal groups, klapas, who perform in a blessing of the city’s heavenly protector, potvrda je atraktivnosti Dubrovnika za style characteristic of Croatian traditional St Blaise. kasnoljetni i jesenski odmor. music.

70 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 71 15 JUNE – 1 SEPTEMBER 2015 20 JUNE - 4 JULY 2015 JULY–25 AUGUST 2015 12 JULY –16 AUGUST 2015 26 AUGUST – 21 SEPTEMBER 2015 10 – 25 OCTOBER 2015 PARK ORSULA MUSIC MIDSUMMER SCENE 66th DUBROVNIK SUMMER WATER POLO WILD LEAGUE DUBROVNIK LATE SUMMER Dubrovnik Tennis Club Tennis Courts & FESTIVAL 2015 midsummer-scene.com FESTIVAL 2015 MUSIC FESTIVAL HTC Babin Kuk Tennis Courts www.parkorsula.du-hr.net www.dubrovnik-festival.hr www.divljaliga.com INTERNATIONAL TENNIS A new festival that will last until mid TOURNAMENTS September has been launched by the ITF MEN’S FUTURES – Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra with the SENIORS aim of maintaining musical and cultural ITF WOMEN’S CIRCUIT vibrancy in this UNESCO World Heritage Site after the end of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. As a major protagonist on the Dubrovnik music scene, the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra will feature prestigious European musicians The Midsummer Scene is a new festival This year too, the Dubrovnik Summer Matches between water polo teams from and works in the magnificent atrium Thanks to the enthusiasm of the Ambient established last year as the basis for Festival will play host to the world’s the various Dubrovnik beaches began of the Rector’s Palace – a true treat for Croatia Association, this unique venue similar international art projects and greatest artists from the fields of theatre, way back in 1922. They continued to take music lovers. has been saved from oblivion, fitted- collaborations in the future. This year, as music, ballet, folklore, visual arts and film. place intermittently till the early 1980s, out and adapted for various music and From 10 July to 25 August, the festival, when many people believed that this one of the most beautiful site-specific This prestigious international sporting stage events featuring national and based on Dubrovnik’s rich and living fine tradition would disappear forever. stages, Dubrovnik’s Fort Lovrjenac will event in Dubrovnik has been the starting international performers. After 200 years, heritage, becomes a meeting place of However, Ivo Kolić and swimmers from 24 – 27 SEPTEMBER 2015 be the venue for one of Shakespeare’s point for a number of great European and the historic archaeological site of St world and Croatian spirit and culture. Porporela collected money, bought WINE & JAZZ FESTIVAL most famous and frequently performed Croatian tennis players. The number of Orsula’s Church has been turned into an equipment and marked out a water polo www.dubrovnikwinejazz.com comedies, Twelfth Night. This participants and the wide public interest open air stage offering a magnificent view pool. They bought a few old balls and caps international project will feature English bear out the status of this prominent of the Old City. The amphitheatre with 10 JULY – 1 SEPTEMBER 2015 from the Jug team in Gruž, and launched Dubrovnik “swings” to the sounds of jazz and Croatian theatrical artists who will tennis tournament for young players. 250 seats is only a couple of kilometres perform in the English language. STARS BENEATH THE STARS the tournament. The tradition continues with the Dubrovnik International Wine & from the city centre. www.alh.hr to this day, and the Dubrovnik beach Jazz Festival! The Festival takes place at tournament has become the world’s the end of September in the heart of the 22 - 25 OCTOBER 2015 largest amateur water polo competition Old City, and features world-class jazz, 1 JULY –31 AUGUST 2015 GOOD FOOD FESTIVAL 21 JUNE 2015 SUMMER EVENTS ON of its kind. Every year in early July, more and outstanding original Croatian wines than 40 teams jump into the sea and and dishes. “ANA IN THE CITY” MUSIC THE ELAFITE ISLANDS, IN compete for the championship title. AND SCENIC FESTIVAL ZATON AND ORAŠAC www.anaugradu.com www.tzdubrovnik.hr 2 – 4 OCTOBER 2015 4 – 14 AUGUST 2015 in front of Saint Blaise’s Church Aiming at enriching their tourist ŠIPAN SUMMER FILM FESTIVAL OF JAMS AND programmes, the City of Dubrovnik MARMALADES and the Dubrovnik Tourist Board have SCHOOL for many years organised music and Adriatic Luxury Hotels are preparing a top Every summer, the island of Šipan plays entertainment events on the Elafite quality summer programme that will be host to a summer film school and film islands, and in the villages of Zaton presented in the spectacular premises of As the Dubrovnik Tourist Board’s most festival entitled the Šipan Summer Film and Orašac. Around thirty programmes Dubrovnik hotels including the Excelsior, successful project in 2014, the new School. Participants in this international offering a lot of fun and a good time Grand Villa Argentina, Dubrovnik Palace, season of this festival will feature a A weekend festival entitled Ana in the City event come from Germany, Bosnia and will be presented during traditional folk Croatia and Bellevue located right on the large number of new and interesting features the outstanding young cellist, Herzegovina, Slovenia, Great Britain and festivals and holidays on the islands of sea shore. Their attractive open air venues gastronomic programmes. This will Ana Rucner - renowned for her specific Croatia. Under the patronage of the City Koločep, Lopud and Šipan, and in the will again become natural settings for include presentations of culinary performing style - in a double role: that of of Dubrovnik, the festival takes place villages of Zaton and Orašac. exclusive concerts, parties and gatherings. specialties of the region, cookbooks in a classical as well as a crossover musician. in Luka Šipanska from 4 to 14 August English, programmes for children, tasting This short festival aims at offering a and its programme includes around ten of regional wines, culinary workshops variety of programmes at the very selected films. In view of the specific 1 - 4 JULY 2015 With the aim of preserving local culture, and other events such as “Dinner with beginning of the summer music season. situation on the Dalmatian islands, which DUBROVNIK heritage and tradition, this festival is a Famous Chef“ and workshops for are quite isolated in winter, the Šipan held in the Stradun, in front of St Blaise’s preparing typical Dubrovnik sweet INTERNATIONAL OPERA Summer Film School is an opportunity Church. Participants dressed in their delicacies, “Eat & Walk“ gastro tours, a 18 – 21 JUNE 2015 FESTIVAL for communication with the entire world. national costumes from all the Croatian “Sweet Tooth Map“ for gourmands and www.dubrovnik-opera-festival.com Thus, the school children of Šipan make LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU counties, present their products to other surprises. THEATRE films together with their peers from Dubrovnik’s guests and caterers, who will The festival is named after and organized www.lepetitfestival.com Mexico, England, France, Germany, include these original delicacies in their in the memory of the world famous tenor Slovenia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, the gastronomic selection. Tino Pattiera, a major world and European Le Petit Festival du Theatre is a distinctive USA, Italy, Brazil and Finland. In past singer in the first half of the 20th cultural event. Every year, around one years, renowned guests and lecturers century. Participants include renowned hundred carefully selected poets, actors in the field of film from Croatia and the international stars interpreting famous and dancers from all over the world region have taken part in the project. operatic arias. present their art in Dubrovnik.

72 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. 2015 Welcome to Dubrovnik 73 DECEMBER 2015 – JANUARY 2016 31 DECEMBER 2015 CHRISTMAS FAIR THE NEW YEAR’S PARTY IN STRADUN

In addition to its astonishing history and The menu is cultural heritage, Dubrovnik is special for its crazy New Year’s Party, which has been held since 1995, and which makes our city top level as well one of the most attractive destinations for having a great time in the long nights. Numerous visitors to Dubrovnik will see in New Year 2015 entertained by a During the December holidays, the rich music programme, and the City at UNESCO World Heritage City of Dubrovnik the foot of Mount Srđ is the only one will shine with magical decorations and to have an entertainment programme sparkle with fairy lights, creating the starting from the morning hours of 31st atmosphere of a fairy-tale renaissance December. city. In the month of gift giving, a Christmas Fair will take place where traditional crafts and handicrafts will be presented and where Christmas decorations, candles, toys, glassware, embroidery, ceramics, porcelain and handmade Christmas products will be displayed. The caterers will offer Christmas cookies, sweet delicacies, mulled wine, candied almonds, as well as traditional Dubrovnik confectionery including kontonjata (quince cheese), mantala (must cheese), prikle (doughnuts), hrostule (deep fried biscuits) and other delicacies prepared for this holiday time.

Having a lunch, tapas or dinner, always in the best ambiance you can imagine; cozy at the street level, luxury on the top level or romantic at the terrace with a stunning view of Dubrovnik Old City. Enjoy the fusion of traditional and contemporary cuisine and do not forget to try one of the brilliant wines from our wine cellar. Experience a journey of taste at Stara Loza - Prijeko Palace.

Prijeko 22, 20000 Dubrovnik, Croatia • Tel +(00)385 20 321 145 • [email protected] • www.prijekopalace.com 74 DobroDošli u Dubrovnik 2015. Fish Restaurant in the Old City PROTOPROTOPROTO established 1886

Unique fish specialities inspired by the traditional dishes of Dubrovnik fishermen

Proto is proud to have played host to Edward VIII, former king of England, and his wife, Wallis Simpson

OLD CITY – Široka no.1 t: + 385 (0)20 32 32 34 Open: 10 – 24 www.esculap-teo.hr

Tradition, Quality, Creativity Tradition, Quality, Creativity National restaurant Traditional local dishes from across Croatia

Let the acclaimed local chefs scintillate your taste buds with authentic Croatian dishes including lamb and veal baked in an iron bell over live coals, home-made smoked ham and trout from our pools. The restaurant Konavoski Dvori is situated in the grounds of an ancient mill just by the Ljuta river. Konavoski Dvori offers a unique experience for the senses, with its picturesque setting and cooking in the style of Croatian grandmothers.

TERRACE BY THE RUMBLING RIVER

Ljuta - Konavle | Open: 12 – 24 t: +385 (0)20 79 10 39 www.esculap-teo.hr