TE KORE BY JAMES BELLANEY [article page 10] dunedin publiclibraries’ magazine • september – october 2017 • issue46
FREE september – october 2017 / issue 46 Great Oaks from Little Acorns Grow “Are libraries still a thing in New Zealand?” I was recently asked this question by a UK resident concerned about closures of CONTENTS libraries there and the impact that had on children in particular. I told her that, yes, What's On 02 New Zealand public libraries are busy and Hot Topic: Biographical Fiction 04 lively places and that every library member Poem: Promise 05 in Dunedin, including babies and young Harbour City Heritage Festival 06 children, can have up to thirty items out at a time. She was amazed and impressed. What's New: McNab 07 Desert Island Books 08 Dunedin Public Libraries have always Kia Ora te Reo Māori: Māori Language Week 10 been committed to providing an excellent WRITE A POEM IN ENGLISH OR collection and service to the children of Friends of the Library 11 SCOTS, INSPIRED BY THE LIFE OR Dunedin; our library led the way in this WORKS OF ROBERT BURNS. Travelling by the Book 12 country by offering the first free lending Inspiring Books on Plants 14 library to children in 1910. The children’s CATEGORIES: Non-fiction Highlights 15 library collection and service went on to become a benchmark, under the inspiring • Published Poet CARNIVAL OF A Heart in the Highlands: Robert Burns 16 leadership of Dorothy Neal White, author of • Unpublished Poet What's New: Teen Space 17 About Books for Children and Books before • Young Poet COSTUME Rhyme Game by C R Lark 18 Five. Our children’s book collections today Kids' Picks 20 are built upon the wonderful collections established by her. She was passionate about ENTRY FORMS & INFORMATION Other than on your ultimate fantasy dinner getting children hooked on reading. PICK UP guest list, where could you expect to see Dunedin Public Libraries NB > to receive your copy of NB via email, please contact The strength of our collections, as well as Princess Leia dancing with morris men, or Dunedin Public Libraries on 03 474 3690 or [email protected]. DOWNLOAD the Children’s Literature Research collection steampunk pirates battling it out with an Subscribe: www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz/yourlibrary/publications (which focuses on the history of children’s www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz/events Arthurian knight? literature, illustration, storytelling, REQUEST Editor Kay Mercer Advertising (03) 474 3419 author biographies and lists of best (03) 474 3690 or [email protected] When in your wildest dreams would you be witness to a Designer Casey Thomas books) inspired me to begin the quarterly Dunedin Public Libraries is conversation between Queen Elizabeth I and Iron Man, Distribution 1,300 copies per issue meeting, Continued Sense of Wonder. This PRIZE-GIVING a department of the Dunedin or hear a rockabilly band jamming with a Renaissance Online www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz brings together local adults with either Thursday 25 January 2018 City Council. Readers 3,000 approximately a professional interest in or a personal 5pm | 4th Floor | City Library quartet? Reviewers’ opinions expressed passion for children’s and young adult Dunedin Public Libraries All things are possible at the 2017 Carnival of Costume! within this publication are their books. I recently wrote about this group for 230 Moray Place own and not necessarily those of The Sapling, an online magazine dedicated Visitors are welcome to dress up and be part of the spectacle P O Box 5542, Dunedin 9058 Dunedin Public Libraries. to promoting discussion about children’s New Zealand literature. You can read the article at: PROUDLY SUPPORTED BY: Dunedin Gasworks Museum and the P (03) 474 3690 www.thesapling.co.nz/single-post/2017/07/26/A- F (03) 474 3660 Dunedin Medieval and Renaissance Society continued-sense-of-wonder PROUDLY SUPPORTED BY: Dunedin Burns’ Club, Univer- E [email protected] ISSN 1174-1074 (Print) sity of Otago, Otago Daily Times, Dunedin Public Library VISIT: Carnival of Costume Facebook page: www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz ISSN 1174-1198 (Online) JACKIE MCMILLAN, COLLECTION SPECIALIST Association (Friends of the Library), fb.me/dunedinlibraryevents for updates Dunedin-Edinburgh Sister City Society and Otago Scottish Heritage Council 28 – 29 October | 11am – 4pm America and Spain. Eleven films DR YORAM’S BRAIN HEALTH SERIES Make a cute animal tail to take subtitled in English. FREE admission. Continuing this series of talks about home and wear. VISIT: www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz/ brain health, Yoram Barak, recently- For children of all ages. events for full details of the Festival appointed Associate Professor of Sunday 1 October, 2pm, Children’s Psychogeriatrics at the Dunedin Storypit, Ground Floor, City Library 28 September – 12 October School of Medicine, shares his 4th Floor, City Library knowledge of Alzheimer’s disease and KIA ORA: RAINBOW ROSALIND prevention. CARNIVAL OF COSTUME Children’s entertainer, Rainbow Find out what you can do to improve When in your wildest dreams would Rosalind, will have you up and maintain your brain health in this and dancing, singing and winners. The competition will be prizes, medals, certificates and an you be witness to a conversation KNITWIT TUESDAY fascinating series of talks. learning new things. Enjoy judged by Dunedin writer, David invitation to the 2018 Dunedin Burns between Queen Elizabeth I and Experienced or beginner knitters of singing along to some Eggleton and Kings High School Club Supper on 25th January: Iron Man, or hear a rockabilly band Fortnightly on Thursday’s 6pm – 7pm all ages are invited to join our weekly fun songs and stay on to Librarian, Bridget Schaumann. jamming with a Renaissance quartet? 4th Floor, City Library knitting group. Bring your own wool get your face painted PUBLISHED POET: adult poets who have All things are possible at the 2017 and knitting needles, and maybe a PART 3: The Social Brain, the impact afterwards! ENTRIES CLOSE: 28 October 5pm had poems published for payment Carnival of Costume! pattern or two to swap with fellow of loneliness on brain health: WINNERS NOTIFIED: 15 November UNPUBLISHED POET: adult poets who for children knitters. Proudly supported by Dunedin Thursday 7 September SUITABLE PRIZE-GIVING: Sunday 3 December, have not had poems published for Gasworks Museum and the Dunedin aged 0–7 for all ages, no unaccompanied SUITABLE 12 noon, Dunedin Public Art Gallery payment Medieval and Renaissance Society PART 4: Brain Engagement, the children under 15 benefits of music and meditation: Tuesday 5 September In association with the Francis YOUTH POET: young poets aged under 18 11am Check the Carnival of Costume Thursday 21 September Every Tuesday evening (excluding public Upritchard exhibition Jealous Prizes generously sponsored by Otago Facebook page: fb.me/ Mosgiel Library holidays), 6pm – 8pm, City Library Saboteurs, and in collaboration Scottish Heritage Council (Published dunedinlibraryevents for updates PART 5: Finale, real world brain with Dunedin Public Libraries and Poet – $1000), Dunedin Public maintenance: Thursday 5 October 28 – 29 October, 11am – 4pm, City Library COMPETITIONS Dunedin UNESCO City of Literature. Libraries Association (Unpublished Poet Check the Dunedin Public Art Gallery – $500), Edinburgh-Dunedin Sister City JEALOUS SABOTEURS: TEEN REED GALLERY EXHIBITION: FOR THE KIDS events page for further upcoming Association (Youth Poet – $500). PLAIN TO ORNATE WRITING COMPETITION details of the exhibition. Any queries, Pick up an entry form with full details ONCE UPON A SUNDAY Create a piece of writing inspired The Reed Gallery exhibition Plain contact Lynda Cullen 4743249. This from your local Dunedin Public Library DADDY COOL Francis Upritchard’s exhibition, touring exhibition, Francis Upritchard: to Ornate: Bookbindings from the or visit www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz/ Reed Collection contains a myriad of Bring your dad along for a special Jealous Saboteurs at Dunedin Public Jealous Saboteurs is a joint partner- events/our-competitions/robert-burns- bookbindings ranging from humble to Father’s Day storytime with Kaitrin Art Gallery. The exhibition runs until ship with Monash University Museum poetry-competition deluxe, from plain to ornate. McMullan, and tell us why your 26 November 2017. Visit the exhibition of Art and City Gallery, Wellington. daddy’s cool. and pick up an entry form from the Runs until Sunday 8 October Art Gallery or any Dunedin Public DUNEDIN UNESCO CITY OF FESTIVALS 3rd Floor, City Library Sunday 3 September, 2pm, Children’s Library for more details or enter online LITERATURE ROBERT BURNS Storypit, Ground Floor, City Library via our competition entry page www. POETRY COMPETITION 2017 16TH LATIN AMERICA & SPAIN FILM FESTIVAL ANIMAL TAILS dunedinlibraries.govt.nz/events/our- Write a poem in English or Scots, The only Film Festival in New Zealand St Francis of Assisi loved all animals. competitions inspired by the life or works of dedicated to contemporary cinema- Come along for a special storytime Entry is restricted to high school Robert Burns. tographic productions from Latin students in years 9 to 13, and there with NZ sign language, and celebrate Three categories of entry, with cash America and Spain. Eleven films from are prizes for 1st, 2nd and 3rd-place our furry, feathered and scaly friends.
4 | NB > www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz > NB | 5 The winner of the 2017 Grace of HOT TOPIC: Snowdrops poetry competition: Heather BIOGRAPHICAL Bauchop's “promise” FICTION
Reading novels based on the life of by monks, becomes so well known for his early twentieth century Chicago society. love of learning that he is summoned to an historical person gives the reader The Other Einstein. Marie Benedict the court of King Athelstan, taking Holy Mitza Maric is a brilliant student studying the best of both worlds – a glimpse Orders and influencing several Kings of physics at an elite Zurich University. into a past world based on facts, England and the fate of an entire nation. When she meets young Albert Einstein, by Heather Bauchop and a narrative in which the writer The Joyce Girl. Annabel Abbs it is a meeting of the mind and of the conjures up the person’s life based Lucia Joyce, talented daughter of Irish heart. They marry and work together, but on their own interpretation of the writer James Joyce, is making a name for is there room for more than one genius in herself in late 1920s Paris. Lucia falls a marriage? life in question. This genre differs for fellow ex-pat Samuel Beckett, but her ThePromise plum tree's branches are heavy from historical fiction in that the love is unrequited. Emotionally fragile, main character has actually lived as Lucia visits psychiatrist Carl Jung, and is SEE ALSO with feathered fruit waiting for winter nectar, destined to live in her father’s shadow. Anne Boleyn: A King’s Obsession. opposed to being fabricated. The Larnachs. Owen Marshall Alison Weir a bellbird trills to a saturated sky Some examples from our collection are: In this story of the relationship between The Lacuna. Barbara Kingsolver Conny, William Larnach’s third wife, threatening to blossom with snow, Circling the Sun. Paula McLain Lovelock. James McNeish and Larnach’s son, Dougie, the socially- Beryl Markham was an aviator, horse restrictive world of late nineteenth The Mercury Visions of Louis Daguerre. and see, through the crying windows, trainer and adventurer in the glamorous century Dunedin and Wellington comes Dominic Smith and decadent world of British expats to life, in a period when Larnach’s Castle milk-white with petal-tips dipped in Spring, living in Kenya in the 1920s. Her Mozart’s Sister: A Novel. Rita Charbonnier hosted glamorous balls and festivities. relationship with Denys Finch Hatton and Sisi: Empress on Her Own. Allison Pataki here is a promise, a nod to the timid sun. Out of Africa’s Karen Blixen, changed the Loving Frank. Nancy Horan The White Garden: A Novel of Virginia course of her life. Mamah Borthwick Cheney falls in love Woolf. Stephanie Barron with Frank Lloyd Wright when she and her Dunstan: One Man Will Change the Fate husband employ the renowned architect of England. Conn Iggulden to design their new home. Both Cheney England in 937 is a nation divided. and Wright leave their respective families Dunstan of Glastonbury, raised and taught to be together, which causes scandal in
6 | NB > www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz > NB | 7 features Otago Peninsula’s living heritage: The Southern Heritage Trust, which is Glenfalloch Gala Day, Portobello Heritage organising the Festival on behalf of the city, HARBOUR Trail Launch, historic films, tours, expresses its thanks to sponsors and partners McNAB new zealand reference collection exhibitions and much more. and the many people and organisations that are supporting the Festival. CITY Dunedin City Library hosts a panel discussion on the Future of the Otago ANN BARSBY, SOUTHERN HERITAGE TRUST Harbour on Monday 16 October as well as presentations by Margaret and DUNEDIN HERITAGE FESTIVAL EVENTS AT Sophie Barker on 50 years at Larnach Castle and the Otago Peninsula Trust on DUNEDIN PUBLIC LIBRARIES HERITAGE Tuesday 17 October. Toitū Otago Settlers HOME, HISTORY, PORT CHALMERS Museum will host David Murray’s Lawson Local residents are invited to consult DCC Lecture on early Dunedin’s Architects archivist Alison Breese on the history of FESTIVAL on Wednesday 18 October and readings your house using land ownership records FRIDAY 13 – MONDAY 23 OCTOBER and performances of shipboard diaries dating back to the 1860s. Dunedin School of Art: A History. Jim Tomlin approach that took over from the mid- This Model World: Travels to the Edge of Eighties. He lays out an idealistic vision (includes Labour weekend) on Thursday 19 October, followed by the 11.30am – 12.15pm Former Head of the School from 1976 Contemporary Art. Anthony Byrt for a new way of doing politics he thinks symposium “Building a City from the Port Chalmers Library | FREE till 2000, Tomlin is well-placed to write Award-winning art critic Byrt gives us his will be up to the many challenges we face. Sea” on Friday 20 October. its history. This is a special edition of own personal account of the New Zealand Immerse yourself in the history the Otago Polytechnic’s art and design contemporary art world, as he has POETRY AT PORT A Passion for Fashion: The Life of Lindsay of New Zealand’s most important Book a Dunedin Railways return journal Scope, published to mark the experienced it since returning from Berlin train trip through the tunnel to Port Local poets celebrate the people and place Polytechnic’s 50th anniversary and the Kennett Master Milliner. Hilary E. Hunt in 2011. He takes in the work of Yvonne early ‘harbour city’. The ten-day on Saturday 21 October, including a of Port Chalmers. 146th anniversary of the School of Art. A passion for fashion is a memoir of the Todd, Shane Cotton, Billy Apple, Judy long and successful career of Lindsay programme of events celebrates special excursion to the Lady Thorn 3pm – 3.45pm Millar, Peter Robinson and Simon Denny, Kennett who went to art school here in Rhododendron Dell Garden Fete. Visit Port Rolfe Room, Port Chalmers Library | FREE Dunedin’s Warehouse Precinct. and talks about the increasingly global our Otago Harbour heritage and Alexander Trapeznik Dunedin and eventually retired here. Otago's facilities, including the working context that contemporary New Zealand This is a fascinating-looking history of There are superb photographs of Kennett’s also offers a vision for the future. tugboat, visit the special exhibitions in FAVOURITE SCOTTISH POETRY artists are operating within. Dunedin’s ‘warehouse precinct’ written collection of 100 hats illustrating the Maritime Museum and enjoy a variety Readings from Robert Burns and others. Choose from a varied programme of by University of Otago history lecturer millinery fashions from 1900 to 1990 of activities at the Library and Town Hall. Discover hidden gems of Scottish verse. events, including family activities, on Alexander Trapeznik. There are excellent alongside examples of his sketches and Other attractions in the Port include 2pm – 3pm and 4pm – 5pm both sides of the harbour as well as in photographs of the many buildings that watercolours. historic films, a Victorian fashion show, Rolfe Room, Port Chalmers Library | FREE the central city. There are special events, form such a strong link to Dunedin’s performances, talks, swing dancing, thriving industrial and commercial past. The Team that Changed Rugby Forever: talks, exhibitions, trails, tours, historic and guided tours. And don’t miss the REIMAGING OTAGO HARBOUR: The 1967 All Blacks. Alex McKay films from the 1930s and an opportunity opportunity to visit Quarantine Island on TODAY'S VALUES, TOMORROW'S USES Manifesto Aotearoa: 101 Political Poems. The ’67 team went unbeaten through their to share your harbour photos. northern hemisphere tour. Current All Sunday 22 October. SPEAKER: Neville Peat Eds., Philip Temple and Emma Neale Blacks coach Steve Hansen rates them as Kick off with a novel Festival opening Monday 16 October | 6pm This collection brings together a diverse Monday 23 October concludes with a range of poets from around the country one of the best teams in history. McKay at Taiaroa Head Royal Albatross Centre 4th Floor | City Library | FREE guided walk along part of the Dunedin's focussing on all things political. tells the story of the tour and in doing so on Friday 13 October at 4pm (ticket original shoreline, and Josephine's gives us a fascinating glimpse of the life event, plus transport options). Check GOLDEN PENINSULA GUARDIANS TALK Birthday Party at Toitū Otago Settlers The New Zealand Project. Max Harris and attitudes of the times. out buildings not normally open to the SPEAKER: Margaret Barker, Sophie Barker Harris argues for a so-called ‘values’ Museum. public during the Vogel Street Party on Tuesday 17 October | 5.30pm approach to politics which he believes Saturday 14 October. Sunday 15 October www.heritagefestival.org.nz 4th Floor | City Library | FREE has been displaced by a technocratic
8 | NB > www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz 9 | NB > www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz Our castaways this issue are three Jane Austen – The Complete Works. how he overcame the odds, to not only Boy. Roald Dahl more members of the Collection Her books are totally re-readable, and survive but prosper in a very harsh and When I was 11, I had a particularly scary it would be a good reminder of civilised brutal environment. The imagery of the teacher who I was completely intimidated Development Team. Between them society, sort of… Parramatta River is vivid and hauntingly by. However, he did introduce us to some beautiful great books. This story of Roald Dahl’s they look after the DVDs, music CDs, Three Men in a Boat. Jerome K. Jerome childhood is still one of my favourites. fiction and literature collections Because it is very funny and if there is Paddling in the warm waters surrounding for the Dunedin Public Libraries no rescue boat then at least I could read my desert island I’d recite paragraphs The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy. network. Looking after such diverse about one. from Pride and Prejudice by Jane Austen Douglas Adams just for the sheer enjoyment. Another book that will help to lift my Depending on how long my stay on the areas of the collections we thought spirits. It might be comforting to have a island would prove to be, then Clarissa by Finally, given I’m neither a mad dog it would be interesting to see which copy with “Don’t Panic” written on the Samuel Richardson, clocking in at 1533 nor an Englishman I’d shelter from the front too. books have inspired them. pages should keep me going! (I have read midday sun under the singular coconut it once, and can recommend it for its wit palm and abandon myself to Wild Places The Complete Works of Shakespeare As usual each castaway was given a virtual and virtue!) by Robert Macfarlane – an elegantly This would be a great opportunity to read copy of the SAS Survival guide and asked crafted book celebrating the spirit of wild all of the things I feel I should read. Plus to choose just five books to keep them ROBYN spaces in Britain and Ireland. This is I could act out the plays when I get bored. company. nature writing at its finest. COLLECTION SPECIALIST Here are their choices: When I’m not catching fish with my JILL bare hands, or clambering up the single GLENDA coconut tree, I’ll be working on my COLLECTION SPECIALIST COLLECTION SPECIALIST knowledge of physics with The Martian by Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty. A Short History of Nearly Everything. Andy Weir Andrew Bolton Bill Bryson This book was published to coincide Sipping on my freshly-opened coconut, I have started it many times but not had with the exhibition at the Metropolitan I’d add some glamour to the surroundings time to complete it. Presumably there Museum of Art and is one of my most by reaching for any one of the Rowland would be plenty of time on a desert island. prized possessions. I know the beautiful Sinclair series by Sulari Gentill. The most I did manage to finish his book One images of McQueen’s incredible work will handsome and wealthy amateur detective Summer: America 1927 and loved it. It inspire me. I may even develop my own in the whole of 1930’s Sydney who, took me a year (obviously not a library line of designer desert wear. together with his colourfully bohemian copy…). friends, are always stumbling headlong Me Talk Pretty One Day. David Sedaris Cocktails Step-by-Step: The Perfect Guide into yet another adventure. David’s writing never fails to make me Fiona Biggs, ed. laugh. Hearing that distinctive voice in to Cocktail Making. Secret River. Kate Grenville A must for any long desert island stay my head as I read will stop me feeling This is a wonderful saga following the – especially if there are coconuts lying lonely. story of one man’s experiences in the about. penal colony of New South Wales, and
10 | NB > www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz > NB | 11 Dunedin-based artist James environment that one lives in. So, to Ballaney is of Ngāi Tahu and give this painting a home next to the Dunedin City Library seem fitting, as KIA ORA Ngāti Porou descent. books become ways of opening new experiences, so too is this painting. The work consists of six huge panels, kinetic and in over height format which The work is titled ‘TE KORE’ allows the viewer to be submerged in translated from Māori means, ‘the TE REO void, the potential of being’. I use this the work whilst being able use their peripheral. The viewer can scan the cosmological name as a metaphor for the painting at multiple angles while moving ‘being present’ when nothing exists. If around the painting allowing the viewer you think along the lines of mindfulness MĀORI to submerge themselves in the art. The and being present, the true self ‘Is’ when the mind is still, henceforth, viewer becomes part of the landscape. from nothing comes everything, from Māori “To paint a small picture is to see destruction comes creation, from yourself outside the experience, however emptiness possibilities arise. Though this you paint the larger picture, you are in it” Language painting may not seem to be a void with (Mark Rothko). its expressionistic manner, it holds both Week Gestural colours in expressionist manner the idea of destruction and creation, thus flow through this scape painting. The it is caught in the middle, being the void. 11 – 17 SEPTEMBER painting is a massive explosion of The perspective is on the viewer if one is destruction and creation, influenced from willing. “To me art is and adventure into Art Statement for Te Kore Māori cosmology, human condition and an unknown world, which can be explored The Dunedin Public Library Association hosts a range the Otago landscape. The possibilities only by those willing to take the risks.” painting outside Dunedin of creation from the lava-ish explosions (Mark Rothko) of speakers during Spring. happening around the painting while the City Library All are welcome to attend on a Wednesday at 12 noon in the oceanic forms roll in and smashes in the Dunningham Suite, 4th Floor, City Library. Come earlier to enjoy By James Bellaney foreground giving rise to creation and TE WEHENGA O RANGI RĀUA KO PAPA tea/coffee and chat. erosion of land. The Separation of Earth and Sky COST: $2 In this massive expanse, I want the I te tīmatanga e piri tahi ana a Ranginui viewer to feel something. The area of rāua ko Papatūānuku, ā, pōkia ai e rāua this painting is a landscape of the soul, ā rāua tamariki i te pōuri i waenganui i a SPRING SERIES SPEAKERS rāua. Ka whakatau ngā tamariki me wehe inspired by the Otago landscape as I 6 September Norman Ledgerwood: Some Treasures of the ō rātou mātua e tiaho ai te mārama ki te spent a lot of time surfing in the Catlin’s Port Chalmers Maritime Museum ao. I muri i te wehenga ka tū ngā tamariki – home to some heavy surf breaks and 13 September Sophie Carty: Books on Prescription hei atua mō ngā wāhi katoa o te ao tūroa. heavier weather, storms come one minute Hei tauira, ko Tāne te atua o te ngahere, 20 September Ross Grimmett: The Hocken WWI Transcription followed by calm blues skies echoed by ko Tangaroa te atua o te moana. Project – War Diaries a blistering sun along rocky coastlines creating idyllic surf conditions. It is In the beginning Ranginui (the sky) and 27 September Stephen Moodie: The Camino de Santiago – not foreign that art is created from the Papatūānuku (the earth) were joined. Travel in Spain
12 | NB > www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz www.dunedinlibraries.govt.nz > NB | 13 it); entertainment is a Vin Diesel movie in compound, and very basic. Notwithstanding the PERU – A LAND OF Spanish, playing from a screen at the front of primitiveness, we are well looked after. It is here CONTRASTS the bus; you buy your food from street vendors that we climb to our highest point in Peru – the BY ANNE-MAREE WIGLEY who hop on and off the bus; and your fellow summit of Pachatata, at 4,118m (13,510ft). You passengers include live chickens. are up so high, and the view is so expansive, First stop, Lima: A cosmopolitan city with 10 that you feel you could just stretch up and touch The towns of Arequipa and Cusco fascinate million inhabitants, dwelling on the shores the clouds. of the Pacific Ocean and enjoying subtropical with their narrow, cobblestoned streets; highly temperatures. Here, multiple lanes of bumper- ornate municipal buildings; monumental The Sacred Valley, descended into via a narrow to-bumper traffic grind through dusty slums and churches full of gold and silverwork, road of hairpin turns, with its salt and silver affluent suburbs alike – all driving on the wrong magnificent paintings and statues dressed mines, terraced fields, and Incan archaeological side of the road for a newly arrived, jet-lagged in sumptuous velvets and lace; and bustling sites – many with wonderful tongue rolling New Zealander, and occasionally on the wrong Plaza de Armas, enjoyable despite the names like Pisac, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero side of the road for Limans as well (eye shutting harassment from the shoe shiners, umbrellas, – oozes history. Zipping around the Peruvian stuff). It is a pleasure to rest beneath the trees sweets and artwork sellers (“It’s almost free, highlands on the back of a quadbike to see of Parque Kennedy, and take a siesta alongside lady”), restaurant touts, and so forth. The some of these sites was a surreal experience. the many cats that call this park home; enjoy tranquil cloisters of the Convent of Santa I’m sure my son drove through every mud puddle ceviche and a Pisco Sour at a local restaurant; Catalina in Arequipa, where the ghosts of nuns he saw! We both looked like mudlarks by the end then retire to the luxury of a soft bed, in an from across the centuries still seem to walk of that tour. along th