Amlwch Port Appraisal

Adopted 5 March 2009

Copyright

Maps in this document are based upon the Ordnance Survey mapping with permission of the Controller of Her Majesty's Stationery Office © Crown Copyright. Licence No LA09001L

For further information, contact the Built Environment and Landscape Section

Old photographs and maps © Archive Service Isle of Anglesey County Council, The Department of Archives and Manuscripts University of Wales Bangor, and personal collection of Mr Bryan D. Hope

Permission must be sought from the Council before reproducing any part of the document.

Contents

Executive summary Major changes since designation The way forward Amlwch port conservation area development guidance Location plan Original conservation area boundary Boundary review and recommendations 1. Introduction 2. Conservation area 3. Community 4. Date designated 5. Reason designated 6. Location 7. Area covered 8. Setting 9. Historical background Population change Archaeology 10. Open spaces Trees and hedgerows 11. Townscape Views 12. The local economy 13. Physical fabric Local building material and styles Streetscape 14. Principal buildings 15. Positive and negative elements 16. Appendices

Executive summary

This Conservation Area Character Statement will become a working Supplementary Planning Guidance (SPG) upon adoption. It supports Ynys Môn Local Plan 1996 (Policy 40) and the stopped Unitary Development Plan (Policy EN13) which states that the character and appearance of all designated Conservation areas will be protected from unsympathetic development. Enhancement of their character will be achieved by carrying out improvements and permitting suitably designed new development.

This document will be a material consideration in the determination of planning applications.

Circular 61/96 (paragraph 20) states that the quality of place should be the prime consideration in identifying, protecting and enhancing Conservation areas. This depends on more than individual buildings.

It is recognised that the special character of a place may derive from many factors, including: the grouping of buildings, their scale and relationship with outdoor spaces, architectural detailing, and so on.

Planning Policy Wales 2002 (paragraph 6.5.15) states that if any proposed development would conflict with the objective of preserving or enhancing the character or appearance of a Conservation area, or its setting, there will be a strong presumption against the granting of planning permission.

Section 14 of The Isle of Anglesey County Council’s Rural Design Guide SPG (2008) contains design guidance for developments within the historic environment.

Summarised below are elements that contribute to the character and appearance of the Amlwch Port Conservation area requiring preservation or enhancement.

History

• Bronze Age man extracted copper from Parys Mountain around 3,500 years ago!

• The Romans are also known to have worked the mine.

• Amlwch owes its existence to both the sea and Parys Mountain.

• The earliest ship movements from Amlwch were recorded in 1730 as carrying oak and alder and later; corn, butter and cheese.

• On the 2nd March 1768, "The Great Discovery" of a large quantity of copper ore was made on Parys Mountain.

• The copper from the Mona and Parys mines dominated the world's markets in the 1780s.

• Acts of Parliament were passed (1793 and 1812) to “Enlarge, deepen, cleanse, improve and regulate the Harbour of Amlwch”.

• The decline in the fortunes of the copper mines saw shipbuilding become increasingly important to Amlwch. In the 1860s a railway branch line from Gaerwen was completed to Amlwch Port.

• In 1871 the mining operations at Parys mine were suspended.

• In 1913 due to the reduction in ships using the harbour the control of the harbour was passed to the local council.

• After the Great War and up to circa 1930 the main activity at the port seemed to be the repair and breaking up of war ships for scrap.

• The Great Copper Mines have attracted tourists since the mid 18th century.

• Today tourism and small scale commercial fishing are the prevailing activities of the once thriving port.

Setting

• Amlwch Port is an enclosed natural harbour with views out to sea.

• The Port extends inland along a natural creek, surrounded by natural rock outcrops, facing north towards the sea.

• The rocky outcrop to the West of the port is of distinct coastal grassland and heath land with scattered scrub and fern.

• To the east and west of the harbour (sub-area 1) are the predominantly well preserved remains of the Port’s copper exportation and shipbuilding industries.

• The sloping topography of the built area (sub-area 2) contributes to the stepped roof heights of terraces.

Architecture

• The general character of sub-area 1 is of a sturdy industrial landscape of stone and slate pitch roofs buildings.

• Buildings and structures within sub-area 1 tend to be large in scale and either single or two storey (with notable exceptions being the chimneys to the northeast of the port).

• The architectural style in sub-area 2 is predominantly of modest two-storey rendered working class terraces.

• The varying height and pitch of roofs is an important characteristic of sub-area 2.

• Walls of buildings and structures within sub-area 1 are in the main of exposed stonework whilst a render finish is seen on most of the buildings in sub-area 2.

• Slate roofs pre-dominate both sub-areas.

Major changes since Designation

From the 1980s onwards the Borough Council and the Isle of Anglesey County Council were able to secure various grant funding for; environmental improvements to the Square, refurbishment of the Sail Loft, Consolidation works to the Kiln, Copper Bins and latterly (in 2002) to the Mona Windmill which is an important landmark feature overlooking the Conservation area.

It is important that these developments (or any future developments) had little or no detrimental effect on the character or appearance of the designated area or its setting.

Since its establishment in 1997 the Amlwch Industrial Heritage Trust aims have been to: conserve the natural and industrial landscape of Amlwch Port (and Parys Mountain), promote scientific and historical research and a fuller understanding of the two sites, and present them for the appreciation of the public.

Through various funding the trust has been able to undertake extensive works including the provision of a visitor centre at Amlwch Port.

Amlwch Port has recently benefited from the addition of CCTV and Floodlighting. Major developments and public investment can bring about economic benefits and restore confidence and thus encourage investment in the protected area’s building stock that will help safeguard their future and in turn the character of the area.

It is a glowing testimony to the quality of the original buildings that the overall form of the Conservation area has remained relatively unchanged over the last two centuries. It is the loss of architectural detailing that often contributes greatly to the special character of the Port that is at greatest risk primarily due to lack of building maintenance or unsympathetic alterations.

The Way Forward

The Isle of Anglesey County Council, Amlwch Industrial Heritage Trust, Welsh Assembly Government, Amlwch Town Council and others in partnership continue to seek funding for the further development of the port and actively promote both Amlwch Port and Parys Mountain as national tourist attractions.

There are notable sites within the Conservation area that offer regeneration development or enhancement opportunities - former Amlwch Brewery site on corner of Chapel Street/Quay Street, the largely vacant Copper Bins, the prominent Mona Mill and others. However, any developments would need to be sympathetic to the character of the Conservation area or its setting.

On a positive note the port’s character and appearance has generally been retained. Some original detail, particularly to harbour walls and terracing around the historic port, still survive.

The Cornish influenced construction method (vertically aligned long slabs of stone and large boulders) of the Harbour Walls is unique to the region and regarded as a special feature synonymous to Amlwch Port.

However, the negative side is that some buildings still suffer from a lack of general building maintenance. Inappropriate materials have also been introduced to the Conservation area including: pebble dash and uPVC or aluminium windows and doors. Previous alterations to business frontages and signage have not had regard to the special character of the area.

Boundary changes are proposed so as to include locations that are presently omitted from the designated area, where buildings or features are integral to the quality and form of the setting of the Conservation area. The total area covered by the Conservation area would increase from 48,148m² to 50,451m².

In order to preserve or enhance the special character of the Conservation area future developments should have regard to the existing; materials, style, size, scale, roof and building line so as to be sympathetic to their surroundings. The important views and open spaces that exist should also be preserved.

Amlwch Port Conservation Area Development Guidance

Development which affect the Conservation area should preserve or enhance its historic character and appearance.

The value of the Conservation area can be damaged significantly by the loss of its historic details.

Traffic management, parking, or lighting proposals will be appraised in terms of need and affect on the Conservation area’s setting.

A main requirement for developments within the Conservation area is quality.

Developments should achieve a high standard of design and detailing using high quality materials suited to the surroundings.

Traditional style developments are acceptable providing that they are sympathetic and of a high quality.

Contemporary or Modernist styles are also acceptable if they are high in quality and remain sympathetic to the existing and/or surrounding buildings.

Planning Control decisions shall be based on the Amlwch Port Conservation Area Character Appraisal SPG.

There is a presumption against demolition within Conservation areas if it results in a harm to its special character.

Developments should avoid unnecessary loss of buildings and features of interest.

The Council will encourage the reuse of redundant or vacant buildings wherever possible.

Developments should have regard to open spaces, views and amenity value of trees.

A schedule of all existing historic architectural detail found in the Conservation area can be found under the heading Local Building Material and Styles (p.54-62). However, this does not preclude high quality suitably designed modern development in the future. Stopped Unitary Development Plan (Policy EN13 ) and Ynys Môn Local Plan 1996 (Policy 40).

Boundary Review and Recommendations (See Appendices I & II)

The character and quality of the streetscape of Amlwch Port is formed by a combination of the built form, architectural detail and public open spaces. The potential impacts on, and threats to, the character of the Conservation area are therefore dependent on all buildings, and open spaces, that have an influence on the streets and open spaces within the boundaries of the Conservation area.

The re-evaluation of the current boundary of the Conservation area has identified locations where the boundary excludes buildings or features that are integral to the quality and form of the setting of the Conservation area itself. It has also identified an area of new development that does not preserve or enhance the character or appearance of the Conservation area. These proposed additions and deletion to the Conservation area are described below.

The listed fine mid 19th century Neo-Classical Carmel Independent Chapel with attached early 20th century Art Nouveau schoolroom is deemed worthy of inclusion within the designated area because of its architectural and historic merit. It is recommended that the boundary be amended to include the chapel and schoolroom as well as the track to its side, forecourt, and lower part of Stryd y Bryngwynt which protects its setting and views.

The two 19th century stone/brick Chimneys, one of which is listed, located North- East of the Sail Loft and Dry Dock form an integral part of the Amlwch Port harbour development. It is recommended that the boundary be amended to include both chimneys as well as the rubble stone Eastern boundary wall which delineates the historic extent of the harbour complex.

The listed mid-late 19th century Dry Dock, created by blasting into the natural rock face, located in the outer harbour opposite the Sail Loft forms an important component part of the harbour development. It is recommended that the boundary be amended to include the Dry Dock which represents the extent of the historic harbour development.

A re-evaluation of the boundary has demonstrated that the post-Conservation area designation re-development that has occurred at No 59 Chapel Street does not preserve or enhance the character or appearance of the area. It is recommended that the boundary be amended to omit this development.

The proposed boundary amendments would see the total area covered by the Conservation area increase from 48,148m² to 50,451m².

In order to preserve or enhance the special character of the Conservation area every effort should be made to ensure that future developments should have regard to the existing; materials, style, size, scale, roof and building line so as to be sympathetic to their surroundings. The important views and open spaces that exist should be preserved.

1. Introduction

Conservation areas were created by the Civic Amenities Act of 1967 when it was decided that listing historic buildings individually was not enough to protect groups of buildings, which although not individually listed contributed to the character of the place as a whole, and their setting. It was also realised that the spaces between buildings, and trees, were also important elements and it was decided to protect whole areas to be called Conservation Areas.

The Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) Act 1990 requires local authorities to designate as Conservation areas “Any area of special architectural or historic interest the character or appearance of which it is desirable to preserve or enhance”.

It is the character of areas, rather than individual buildings, that the Act seeks to preserve or enhance. Conservation area designation should be seen as the prime means of recognising, protecting and enhancing the identity of places with special character.

Quality of place should be the prime consideration in identifying Conservation areas although there can be no standard specification for Conservation areas.

Designating a Conservation area does not prevent future change to buildings and their surroundings. It does mean, however, that the local planning authority when considering planning applications, including those which are outside a Conservation area but would affect its setting, must pay special regard to whether the proposed changes “preserve or enhance the character or appearance of the Conservation area”.

The designation should enable the character of the area to be retained and controlled, ensuring that any new development is sympathetic to both the special architectural and historic interest of the area, but without affecting its function or prosperity.

If a proposal involves the total or substantial demolition of a structure or a building within the Conservation area then “Conservation Area Consent” from the local authority will be required. Otherwise development in Conservation areas is dealt with through the normal planning application process. Subject to some exceptions trees are protected in Conservation areas and anyone proposing to cut down, top or lop a tree is required to give 6 weeks written notice to the local planning authority.

Under section 69 of the Act there is a duty on local authorities to review their areas from time to time and to consider whether further designation of Conservation areas is called for. It is only by understanding the elements that contribute to the character and appearance of an area can we aspire to “preserve or enhance” it.

Anglesey County Council is producing a character appraisal for each of the island’s Conservation areas. These character appraisal documents will form the basis, along with policies set out in the Ynys Môn Local Plan and the stopped Unitary Development Plan, for aiding development control within Conservation areas.

Guidance on general policies that are material considerations in the determination of all planning applications in Conservation areas are included in Policy 40 Ynys Môn Local Plan (and also Policy EN13 of the stopped Unitary Development Plan).

Section 14 of The Isle of Anglesey County Council’s Rural Design Guide SPG (2008) contains design guidance for developments within the historic environment.

2. Conservation area

Amlwch port

3. Community

The conservation area lies within the community of amlwch and amlwch port ward.

4. Date designated

Amlwch port was designated as a conservation area in may, 1979.

5. Reason designated

The harbour’s industrial heritage remains largely intact and provides a fascinating and rare insight into the industrial activities of the port during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

The industrial and residential development to the south of the port also provides an interesting historic streetscape (including varying roofscape and open spaces) that, being closely associated with the port development, are also considered worthy of protection and enhancement.

6. Location

Amlwch is the most northerly town in wales. It is located in the north east of the isle of anglesey, just off the north wales coast and on the a5025.

Amlwch port (grid ref.: 449 933) lies less than a kilometre to the north east of the town.

7. Area covered

See Appendices I & II

Conservation Area Boundary

The current Conservation Area boundary extends eastwards from the rear of No 59 Chapel Street along the rear boundaries of the properties to the south side of Chapel Street up to No 38 Chapel Street. The boundary then turns northwards up to the rear property boundary of No 39 Chapel Street from where it heads westwards up to Lôn Wen. The boundary then follows the rear building line from No 7 Upper Quay Street to No 21 before continuing northwards along the eastern edge of Upper Quay Street, incorporating property No’s 79 and 83, up to and encompassing the Sail Loft (Heritage Centre). The boundary then follows the harbour wall westwards before crossing over to the western side of the harbour in line with the pier (inclusive). It then turns to head south along the harbour wall, diverting to encompass the remains of the Turkey Shore Road buildings, before continuing along a track and road up to and along the rear boundaries of the properties fronting Quay Street. From No 61 Quay Street the boundary continues south to return to No 59 Chapel Street. The total area covered by the Conservation Area is approximately 48,148m².

8. Setting

Amlwch’s natural and rugged coastline offers some of the finest maritime scenery.

Geology: The harbour lies on approximately 600 million years old green mica-schist (metamorphic rock composed chiefly of mica and quartz).

Landscape: The Conservation area extends inland along a natural creek. The Conservation area lies within Local Character Area 3 (LCA 3) of the Ynys Môn Landscape Strategy (1999), which is based on the Countryside Council for Wales LANDMAP approach. This establishes a standard methodology for assessing landscape character across Wales.

The Amlwch and Environs area lies within a broad, shallow valley extending down to a rocky coastline.

The port area is typified by industrial complexes and installations.

The landscape is influenced by the underlying geology of Pre Cambrian outcrops along the coast, and the Coedcana granites further inland, which results in an undulating landscape with rocky outcrops.

The varied landform, has provided a variety of habitats from those with a coastal influence, to those inland where agriculture dominates, and the diversity of habitats has been constrained. One of the key aims of LCA 3 is to promote the historic and cultural landscape.

To the west Mona Mill provides a prominent backdrop to the port with the Canatxx LNG Ltd site beyond. Once construction is completed it is envisaged that the methane storage holders will remain naturally screened from the port.

9. Historical background

Radio carbon dating of material found underground has proved that Bronze Age man was extracting copper from Parys Mountain around 3,500 years ago!

From the evidence of various bun-ingots with Latin stamps it is known that the Romans worked the mine.

The name Amlwch probably derives from Am (around, nearby, the other side) + llwch (lake, pool or marshy ground). Llwch may correspond to the Cornish form logh (coastal inlet) and may refer to the inlet at Porth Amlwch. It may also be comparable to Irish lough and Gaelic loch - water.

The town of Amlwch owes its existence to both the sea and Parys Mountain.

Trwysglwyn Fawr was recorded in Edward III’s the “Extent of Anglesey (1352)” as being the Domicile (dwelling) of Tudor ap Ednyfed. The area was called Mynydd Trwysglwyn that translates as ‘A thick grove of rough trees covered with a Lichen growth.’

In 1406 Robert Parys, chamberlain of North Wales, was given Mynydd Trwysglwyn as a reward from Henry IV for collecting taxes due from the people of Anglesey imposed because of their support for Owain Glyndŵr.

Since then Mynydd Trysclwyn has become commonly known as Mynydd Parys.

In 1579 Sir John Wynn of Gwydir recorded Medleys "Great Mineral Works" at Mynydd Parys investigations for the Mineral & Battery work on methods for producing materials from the waters of Parys Mountain.

At the time of the Alchemist Sir John Wynn described that “the result of boiling a great cauldron of the coloured waters from the mine was to produce alum copperas which had the effect of transmuting iron into copper.”

In 1610 John Speed, in his survey of Anglesey, mentioned ‘that Alom and Coperose’ were being made there in his day, but the enterprise had been abandoned ‘without further hope because at first they saw it not answer their overhastie expectations.’

In 1693 the Crown monopoly of Gold and Silver mining held by the battery works was relinquished. As Gold and Silver were often found in copper mines a disincentive to prospect for these metals had been removed. Thereafter private “Adventures” began to look at potential sites for copper and lead mines.

The Beaumaris Port Account Book for 1730 records some of the earliest ship movements from Amlwch. Two vessels from Conwy (The Cotton and The Pembroke) are entered as carrying Oak and Alder timber from Amlwch.

In 1748 the writer and mapmaker Lewis Morris noted in his diaries that the mountain produced an “oakery earth” which was used in paint manufacture. However, he mentioned nothing of copper extraction. He also described the harbour as follows:

“I do not think it worthwhile to publish a plan of this place as it is now, because it is no more than a cove between two steep rocks where a vessel hath no troom to wind, even at high water. But a large vessel might be saved here in case of necessity, provided the mouth of the harbour can be discovered which is now difficult for a stranger.” In order to aid navigation he proposed: “Two white houses, for landmarks, one each side of the harbour's mouth, would make the entrance conspicuous to any stranger, the east mouse, a small island near the place being a good direction until you come close to shore.”

Lewis Morris also noted that vessels came to Amlwch to load corn, butter and cheese.

At the time the steep gorse lined sides made berthing difficult. Although in 1750 a 15 ton sloop called Nancy is recorded as being tied up to the gorse bushes at the eastern side of the creek. However, by 1766 Iron links, set into the rock, had replaced the gorse bushes.

Lewis Morris records in 1761 that there was some prospecting in Anglesey including Rhosmynach and Parys.

On the 2nd March 1768, under the direction of mining engineer Jonathon Roose, "The Great Discovery" of a large quantity of ore was made by a miner called Rowland Puw.

Lead and some silver was also obtained from the copper mine.

At the time of the ‘great discovery’ the ownership of the mountain was divided which led to the development of two separate mines; the Mona Mine to the East and Parys Mine to the West. Legal land disputes marred the initial mining until both mines came under the control of Thomas Williams, a local lawyer from Llanidan.

Thomas Williams (1737-1802) went on to become one of Britain’s leading industrialists and under his astute management Amlwch came to dominate the world's copper markets.

In 1774 the Parys Mine Company was formed.

In 1775 John Thomas wrote ‘History of the Island of Anglesey’ and described the harbour so:

“Amlwch harbour in the North West part of Anglesey, is a small cove, formed as it were by an excavation of a large rock, the extension of which, as far as navigable, we compute, without measurement, to be 40 pearches, and from side to side, which are uncommonly steep, no more than 5 pearchs. When the tide is in, 'tis here nothing strange to see men fishing while they stand on the brim of the cavitation. The harbour is much requented by small sloops, Here the Liverpool pilot boats usually moor, to be ready to give assistance to such vessels as are unacquainted with the coast.”

In 1778 Pennant wrote: “the port is no more than a chasm between two rocks, running far into the land and dry at low water, into which sloops run and lie secure to receive their lading (cargo).”

As Amlwch became an increasingly busy port due to the copper mines a group of merchants built a house near Point Lynas in 1779 to guide ships by the placement of lights at its windows. The present light house (approx. 3km to the East of the Conservation Area) dates from 1835 and stands 128ft. above sea level. The copper from the Mona and Parys mines dominated the world's markets in the 1780s.

The 1780 Owen map of Amlwch Port depicts ‘Amlwch Brewery’ (Brewas Borth) in the Square above the port. Briwas Y Llan (close to Railway Station) and another (name unknown) located behind Parys Lodge Square later followed. (See Appendicies III, IV, V & VI)

In 1784 a new patent meant that only Thomas Williams could supply the copper bolts & sheathing used by the Navy to protect ships from attack by the Teredo sea worm (a wood borer) and inhibited the growth of marine vegetation that could affect the speed and manoeuvrability of vessels. A contract for 25,000 bolts per week was obtained but Williams was to actually supply 40,000 per week.

Copper sheathing was used on Nelson’s ship Victory at the battle of Trafalgar and it is said that his victories were founded on Parys and Mona copper for his men-of-war were all copper-bottomed from these mines. The demand for the copper sheathing provided a good market for high quality copper.

By 1786 a total of 31 smelting furnaces, with chimneys 41 ft. high had been built at Amlwch Port to refine the ore. Around 1786-88, the Mona Mine agent John Price and Stephen Roose of the Parys Mine formed the Amlwch Shipping Company. The company had an interest in several purpose built vessels which were larger than those previously used in the copper trade. At the time thirty-five vessels were engaged in exporting the copper. It is estimated that over the following 3 years 70 vessels were involved in the copper trade between Amlwch and Swansea.

At a time when there were no banks in the district and when there was a general scarcity of small change in the land a wage-bill on the scale of the copper mines could not be satisfied without additional measures. In the Spring of 1787 a Kentish newspaper contained the following notice:-

“There is a new coinage, by contract with the Government, now going on in the Island of Anglesey at the great copper mines there. This coinage consists of a penny pieces, not half penny as heretofore. The die is a Druid on the one side, and the King’s head on the other; and the size is about that of half-a-crown. A hundred tons are said to be the quantity agreed for, and forty shillings per ton is to be allowed for coining, the contractors finding their own copper”

Copper tokens became illegal in 1817.

The port records for 1792 show that ‘Beaumaris & Amlwch’ received 327 ships with a gross tonnage of 13,287 tons which comparable to Swansea received 96 ships and 5,521 ton gross in the same year.

An Act of Parliament was passed in 1793 (and again in 1812) to “Enlarge, deepen, cleanse, improve and regulate the Harbour of Amlwch”, at the expense of the Companies, until two vessels were able to ride abreast and 30 sloops and brigs of 50 to 200 tons could be accommodated.

The steep rock face on the eastern side of the inlet was quarried away to form a wide new quay on which several storage bins (some of which were roofed) were built.

The land on the western side was developed by Nicholas Treweek and his brother Francis, sons of James Treweek (a Cornishman brought in by the mine owners to revitalise the mines in the early part of the 19th century), for use as a shipyard. The remains of the yard and its associated buildings are still visible today.

The decline in the fortunes of the copper mines saw shipbuilding become increasingly important. Treweek established a new yard (Iard Newydd) and dry dock outside the harbour entrance which had the capacity to build iron vessels.

In the eighteenth century the output of the copper mines was so enormous that it dominated the copper market of the world. The copper brought great prosperity and the sleepy little fishing hamlet of a mere six houses in 1766 had grown, following ‘the great discovery’ in 1768, to be a town of nearly 5,000 inhabitants by 1801.

In 1797 Arthur Aiken wrote ‘the port of Amlwch is chiefly artificial being cut out of the rock with much labour and expense...’ but that following the improvements up to 30 vessels of up to 100 tons could be accommodated in the harbour.

Despite the harbour improvements copper ore was still transported to the port by horse and cart. The carts would be lined up on Upper Quay Street before emptying their cargoes of ore via large chutes into the ‘Copper Bins’ below. However, the process of off loading the ships at dock was even more labour intensive as tubs or wheelbarrows were still used by the men and women who undertook the work.

Bingley wrote in 1798 that: “the port is very small, but exceedingly adapt to the business of exportation. It is a chasm between two rock, running far into land, and has in great measure been formed by art. It's width in not more than to allow two vessels to ride abreast: It is however sufficiently long and deep to receive 30 vessels of 200 tones burthen each”.

By 1815 the busy port merited the appointment of a Tide Surveyor and Coast Waiter who had the authority to search any vessel or premises for goods on which tolls were due. In 1823 a Customs Officer was appointed to the port.

In 1816 the Paynter family erected Mona Windmill (Melin y Borth). The seven floor brick mill, which overlooks Amlwch Port, was the tallest windmill to be built on Anglesey. It remained in use until the early part of the 20th century. There was also a windmill at Pentrefelin and a water mill at Melin Adda.

Lewis wrote in 1823, ‘one of the most secure and commodious harbours on the coast of N. Wales, and has two lighthouses with steady lights at the entrance to it.’

It was in the same year that the Cleansing Committee of the vestry directed, ‘That public notice...be given for confining all hogs instead of permitting them to range about the streets as they are allowed to do so at present to the great danger and inconvenience of the public.’

The port was considered to be of sufficient standing by 1824 to appoint a “principal coast officer” assigned to it.

Due to the high cost of a carting monopoly the possibility of developing a railway link between the mines and Amlwch Port, with branch lines to Parys and Mona kilns and the smelting houses yards, was explored in 1825. However, the railway to the mine was never completed.

In 1828 Amlwch had as many as 31 inns and taverns – comparable to Caernarfon.

Note: Penysarn, Moelfre and Rhosybol were also included as part of Amlwch at the time. In 1839 The Eagles Public House on Quay Street, Amlwch Port, was used as the first meeting place of the Literary and Scientific Institution.

Robert Roberts described the port in the mid 1850s as: “a busy port, full of ships, and the smell of sulphuric smoke from the smelting works; numerous public houses around the port, and seamen, shipwrights and hobblers drinking Amlwch Brewery beer (or Greenalls, the company from St. Helens which has been there since 1786), and chewing Amlwch shag tobacco and at least seven pugilistic encounters in the street between old Mrs Roose's pub and Roberts' lodging house”.

Another local writer, Hugh Hughes wrote at the same period: “At present the harbour is very over crowded with ships under repair and others using it for import and export. No less than 516 ships used the harbour last year. Two foreign ships carrying 486 tons, 210 ships were loaded with export. There are 78 ships owned by this port, besides others that Amlwch people have shares in. Them from a smack to 3 masted vessels, that trade to the four quarters of the globe.”

As the capacity of the yard on the western side (Iard Ochr Draw) became inadequate for the building of larger iron schooners Nicholas Treweek commissioned, by blasting away further rock, a larger yard and slipway on the eastern side of the harbour. The dry dock also created for the repairs of ships is still in existence.

Treweek then sold the old ship building yard to William Cox Paynter whose main business appears to have been in the repair rather than building of vessels. In 1863 work began on a railway branch line from Gaerwen to Amlwch which would have undoubtedly brought economic benefit to the town.

As the railway proved to be a more reliable and cheaper means of transport the use of ships from Amlwch port began to decline.

The railway continued to be used until Dr Beeching’s report to the Government recommended the closure of little-used and unprofitable railway lines. On 5th December 1964 the "Beeching's axe" closed the passenger line and the disused station buildings were disposed of for other uses. However, the line continued to be used for the transport of freight to the Associated Octel Co. works until 1993.

By 1866 the ports of Beaumaris & Amlwch received 298 ships totalling 19,335 tons. In comparison the port of Cardiff which could accommodate much larger vessels received 89 ships with a total of 18,252 tons.

The treacherous coastline of Anglesey resulted in many ships being damaged and the ship repair business at Amlwch became a lucrative trade.

For a short period between 1869 and 1876 the ‘North Anglesey Slate and Slab Co’ quarried the rock close to Point Lynas. Ambitious plans to develop a new harbour and port to be named "Port Dinorben" were never realised.

In 1871 the mining operations at Parys mine were suspended.

Iard Newydd was brought in 1872 by Captain William Thomas who was to become a notable name in the history of ship building at Amlwch. He in turn passed the business onto his two sons William (a trained naval architect) and Lewis whose schooners are regarded as some of the best examples ever built. (See Appendix VII)

In the period between 1875-1880 the ‘Evan Evans Soda Water Manufactory’ distributed bottled Mineral water throughout the island from its site at Pant Rhyd Talog, Amlwch Port.

In 1883 underground work at Mona Mine had stopped and by the 1950s even the Precipitation pits had been abandoned. A hundred years later (1980s) Anglesey Mining Company PLC prove the existence of a poly metallic ore containing mainly Zinc on Parys mountain.

In 1891 the 355 ton iron steamship Cygnus became the largest vessel to leave the Amlwch ship yard.

One of the last ships to be built at Amlwch was the small hospital ship Morfudd (built in 1912).

In 1913 due to the reduction in ships using the harbour the control of the harbour passed to the local council.

After the Great War the main activity seemed to be the repair and breaking up of war ships for scrap. However, even this activity came to an end c. 1930.

Today tourism and small scale commercial fishing are the prevailing activities of the once thriving port.

Summary

• Copper mining on Parys Mountain dates back to prehistoric times.

• The Great Discovery of copper ore in 1768 saw massive development of the town and its port.

• The arrival of the Railway Branch Line in the 1860s also brought further expansion and economic benefit.

• The port’s history and character derives from its function as a working industrial port.

Population Change

In 1563 the population of the Parish of Amlwch stood at 410. Over a hundred years later in 1670 it had modestly risen to 475. However, following ‘The Great Discovery’ of 1768, which saw an influx of workers and their families from far and wide, the population of Amlwch was, after Carmarthen, the second largest in Wales standing at an incredible 4,977. Yet further increases were to follow as the population had risen to 5,292 in 1821 and by 1831 the number of inhabitants stood at 6,285. By 1901 the population had fallen drastically to 2,994 and had fallen further to 2,700 by 1951. The latest Census figures (2001) show the population to be 3,438. The population of the Amlwch Port Ward was 1,391.

Archaeology

Recent excavations have enabled surface debris from mining activities to be dated back to the early Bronze Age. Parys Mountain is one of only a few known British sites (such as the Great Orme, Llandudno) where there is evidence of prehistoric metal mining industry.

Therefore, it is of national importance as a historic mine and an archaeological site. The surrounds of the natural creek may also hold prehistoric artefacts.

The area also has a medieval history as recorded in Edward III’s the “Extent of Anglesey (1352)”.

Post ‘Great Discovery’ eighteenth and nineteenth century industrial and domestic archaeology may still be buried within the Conservation area. Earlier 15th -17th century archaeology may also be present.

The tramlines that led to the port have since been removed. However, the line shoes remain buried under the present tarmac.

There may well be unknown sites of archaeological interest, having a wide date range, within the Conservation area.

Therefore, opportunities for archaeological investigation and recording, whether due to redevelopment or other, will be recognised and supported by the Council whenever possible.

10. Open spaces

The Conservation area is extensive in size and can be subdivided both geographically and characteristically into two distinct Sub - Areas e.g. The harbour and the built area to the South as shown below:

Sub-Area 1

Undoubtedly the most dramatic and historic ‘open space’ to be found in the Conservation area lies around the former industrial harbour which provide an essential natural setting.

Today the Port is home only to a few fishermen and yachtsmen but is frequented by numerous local walkers and visitors for its scenic environs and historical interest. Anglers can often be seen casting off the breakwater directly north of the port.

To the west of the port, where once buildings associated with the shipbuilding industry stood, the land is gradually reverting back to its natural state with scrub vegetation re-colonising the un-grazed rock on which Mona Mill stands.

The Anglesey Coastal Path runs northwards past the industrial and residential ruins of Turkey Shore, that lie between Mona Windmill and the western wall of the port, towards the coast. Another branch of the path continues eastwards to run along Upper Quay Street towards the former Isolation Hospital at Llam Carw and onwards along the coastline into the open countryside.

Sub-Area 2

Between Quay Street and Lôn Wen off Chapel Street, where the Amlwch Brewery (Brewas Borth) once stood, there is now an unimaginative hard landscaped public open space that does little to attract or welcome the general public. (See Appendices III, IV, V, VI & VIII)

A study into the potential of this under used public amenity is being undertaken by the Council in conjunction with the Town Council.

Summary

• The setting of the Port is enhanced by the natural open spaces around the Port.

• The Port’s scenic environs and history are popular attractions for both local walkers and visitors alike.

Trees and Hedgerows (See Appendix XIV)

Trees

Trees do not play an important role in the Amlwch Port Conservation Area. The hard rock geology and exposed location of the port may not be conducive to tree growth.

Whilst southwards in the built area the restrictive scope of the residential gardens and lack of public open spaces has severely limited the amount and size of trees that have been allowed to mature.

Consequently there are no significant trees worthy of note, or that contribute importantly to the character, of the Conservation area.

Subject to some exceptions trees within Conservation areas are protected. Written notice to the local planning authority is required if it is proposed to carry out any work to a tree such as cutting, felling, etc. within the designated area.

Species

The trees are mostly deciduous natives.

Hedgerows

There are no countryside hedgerows within the Conservation area.

Flora and Fauna

The Phase 1 Habitat Survey Report of 1993 undertaken on behalf of the Joint Nature Conservation Committee describes the rock outcrop to the west of the port as coastal grassland and heath land with scattered scrub and fern. The rocky slopes east and west of the Port are of botanical interest with the annual grass Vulpia myuros occurring at one of its few Anglesey locations on the slopes just west of the harbour.

The slopes to the west of the port also display a diversity of floral species.

Wildlife

The grassland and heath land vegetation along with the natural crevices found on the headlands to the east and west may also support a great deal of wildlife including; birds (e.g. Choughs), small mammals, as well as amphibians and reptiles. The habitat would appear to be ideal for lizards.

The open sea to the north of the port also supports; dolphins, common porpoises and seals. It is not inconceivable that seals could venture into the port.

Note: Many of Britain’s wild plants and animals are legally protected under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 and the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000.

11. Townscape

Sub-Area 1

Richard Owen’s 1780 map of the Bod Ednyfed and Glanllyn estates which bounded the port indicates that some buildings had already been built backing right up to the eastern side of the port. (See Appendix III)

In 1782 a small pier was built by the Parys Mining Company. The pier was later removed to allow further development of the port.

A survey undertaken by William Francis in 1828 denotes a number of warehouses on the western shore. Many of these buildings later formed part of the ship yard buildings developed on the western side of the port (Iard Ochr Draw). (See Appendicies IV, V & XII)

In 1797 Arthur Aikin noted a brick making clay mill adjacent to the smelting works near the present day Craig yr Don housing estate. It is thought that the industry finished some time prior to 1828. An area on the hill to the East above the quay is still called the Brickpool.

The Dry dock was created by enlarging a natural creek known as ‘Porth Cwch Y Brenin’ (the creek of the King's boat). The name suggests that it may have once been the berth of a revenue cutter stationed to combat local smuggling.

The once attractive Harbour Master's Office has since been demolished.

Under the guidance of a Trustee body an estimated 20,000 tons of rock was blasted to produce a level surface some 400 feet long by 60 feet wide on the eastern side of the harbour.

The dislodged stone was used to construct; a small pier, kilns, storage buildings, and to face the harbour walls.

Timber baulks could be drawn by winch across the harbour entrance to form an effective barrier against severe storms.

By 1790 a rolling mill and two smelting houses had been built as both the Parys and the Mona Company took to smelting their inferior ores at Amlwch. At the beginning of the 19th century twenty furnaces were in blast.

The completion in 1816 of a 150 feet long pier and small lighthouse meant that the harbour could be used as a safe refuge during severe storms.

The white watch tower (c.1819) can be seen in the background of this later painting. The Watch House was replaced with another larger structure in 1853 that is still there.

When smelting began at Amlwch is uncertain. However, it thought that the initial smelters were built alongside Afon Amlwch in an area now know as Craig y Don.

At the end of the 19th century Amlwch boasted five timber yards producing timber work for the shipping industry. A water wheel driven sawmill was situated on the west bank of the port.

In 1833 a railway had been built from the smelting works down to the shipping berths at Amlwch Port. It became operational the following year.

To the west of the port an iron and brass foundry was developed to supply parts for the new steam ships being built at the Amlwch ship yards. The foundry also manufactured ornate gates and railings. (See Appendix IX)

Limestone was in the days of sail often used as ballast as it was extensively used for agricultural and building purposes ensuring a ship Captain of a quick sale. As a result lime kilns became features of many small ports including Amlwch.

Sub-Area 2

The 1780 Owen map of Amlwch port depicts ‘Amlwch Brewery’ (Brewas Borth) in the Square above the port. The 1828 Francis map also displays the brewery on the Square as well as another smaller brewery ‘Marquis of Anglesey’ in Lower Quay Street, and the residential terraces to the north and south of Chapel Street. The Dinorben Arms also owned ‘Brewas Llan’ or the Town Brewery. (See Appendices IV &V)

The 1851 Census lists four brewers in Amlwch but by 1881 the number had doubled to eight. By 1890 the Parys Brewery was located to the south-west of the railway station.

The Children’s Employment Commission report of 1842 stated that ‘miners usually build their own houses.’

Public and private houses once stood on Turkey Shore which was situated on the lower ground between the port and Mona Mill. (See Appendices III, VI & VIII)

The curved facade and stepped roof of No’s 69 and 73 Machine Street is of visual interest.

Although properties facades may have witnessed many transformations over the years the built area’s stepped roofscape has however remained relatively unchanged.

Early nineteenth century and Victorian architecture is the dominant architectural style within the Conservation area.

The sloping topography along Machine Street and Chapel Street contributes to the stepped roof heights of the terraces. Views (See Appendix X)

There are fine outward views from: i) The viewing platform by the Sail Loft northwards towards the Irish Sea. (Map reference 'A') ii) The pier northwards towards the sea. (Map reference 'B')

There are also fine inward views from:

iii) Machine Street eastwards towards the Liverpool Arms and the undulating roofscapes of Chapel Street as far as Carmel Independent Chapel. (Map reference 'C') iv) Stryd Bryngwynt southwards towards the front elevation of Carmel Independent Chapel. (Map reference 'D') v) the length of Upper Quay Street generally westwards towards the harbour and Mona Windmill. (Map reference 'E') vi) The viewing platform by the Sail Loft generally westwards towards the harbour. (Map reference 'F') vii) The pier southwards towards the harbour. (Map reference 'G') viii) Mona Windmill, western side quay, and upper ground eastwards towards the harbour. (Map reference 'H') ix) The slipway situated to the south of the port northwards along the harbour. (Map reference 'I')

The views into and out of the Conservation area are deemed to be important to the overall character of the area and therefore the design of any new development should take the views into consideration.

12. The local economy

Former

Historically the town's growth has been linked with the Great Copper mines of Parys Mountain.

The Parys Mine Company and Mona Mine Company, who both worked the vast mines, employed between 1,200-1,500 miners during the first mining boom. Many of the employees were women and children.

The by-products of the mining process resulted in a variety of additional local industries including; chemical works, breweries, tobacco companies, and a foundary etc. (See Appendix IX)

When the mines finally fell silent ship building became the dominant local industry.

Herring fishing once provided an important local income with 19th century farmers occasionally buying the catch and setting their employees to salt and pack the herring before selling the fish in Ireland. In the summer lobster pots would be set within a few hundred yards of the cliffs.

In 1828 the local breweries supplied the 21 taverns recorded in the area. Often the ‘taverns’ were no more than a front room of a house adapted for public use by the widows of seamen. However, the Beer Act of 1830 resulted in the closing down of many of these ale houses and the establishment of licensed premises. By the end of the 19th century over 70 licensed pubs or ‘Beer Houses’ were in existence in Amlwch (which also included Penysarn, Moelfre and Rhosybol as part of Amlwch).

The copper mines have been attracting tourists for over 200 years. Painters and writers have been drawn to Parys Mountain since the end of the 18th Century. With the arrival of a steam ship ferry service from Liverpool to Bangor in 1822 the following year a horse drawn coach service was established that would travel each morning from the ‘Freemasons Arms’ in Amlwch to Bangor to collect those who wished to view the great Parys mines. In 1848 Owen Jones wrote a travel book entitled ‘Amlwch and the Celebrated Mona and Parys Copper Mines’.

The completion of the railway to Amlwch further increased the opportunity for tourism.

By the following century the occasional day trip steam ferry from Liverpool could be seen entering the harbour.

Like most nineteenth century towns Amlwch developed its own craft industries such as: blacksmiths, coopers, wheelwrights, carpenters, shoemakers and bakers etc. The woollen industry was also well established with at least two factories in existence in 1866.

The site to the north-west of the port was developed as a bromine plant in 1952 by The Associated Ethyl Corporation who later became the The Associated Octel Company. The Shell Oil Company purchased the undeveloped north-east portion of the site from Octel in 1974 to develop an oil terminal.

In 1984 Anglesey Mining plc was formed. In 1988 over 2,000 tonnes of ore was mined and sold. Development stopped due to the poor market conditions of the time.

Present

Today Amlwch is the third largest town on Anglesey with a population of 3,438 recorded in the 2001 census.

The Amlwch Industrial Heritage Trust, who’s tourism facility (exhibition and café) is housed in the Old Sail Loft building at Amlwch Port, actively promote Conservation led tourism by having developed a heritage trail around the historical industrial features around the Port.

Parys Mountain has provided dramatic landscape scenes for numerous films including ‘Dr Who’ and ‘Mortal Kombat 2’.

The area has not benefited from any substantial public or private money investment in recent years.

National Statistics (2001 Census) figures for Industry of Employment for the Amlwch Port Ward show that Manufacturing was the single largest employment sector accounting for 16.6% of the total working population of 501 persons. Other large employment sectors include: Health and Social Work (15%), Wholesale and Retail trade, Repairs (12.4%), Construction (10.8%), and Education (8.8%).

It is interesting to note that whilst Mining and Quarrying and Fishing were once important employment sectors today only 4 persons are employed in Mining and Quarrying and 3 in Fishing.

The Long Term Unemployment in the Llangefni and Amlwch Travel to Work Area (TTWA) for the period between July 2005 and June 2006 was 4.9%.

According to the Welsh Index of Multiple Deprivation 2005 (WIMD 2005) the Communities First sub-district, Amlwch Port Ward, is ranked in the top 25% most deprived in Wales.

Opportunities

Geological investigation of Parys Mountain recommenced in 1995 which led to further drilling in 1997 with the intention of increasing the company mining resources of copper, lead, silver and gold. It was envisaged that the planned mine would require over 100 employees and could be viable for around 15 years.

The Wales Spatial Plan (2004) for the north-west Wales area, including the Isle of Anglesey, sets the following vision: “A high quality natural and physical environment supporting a cultural and knowledge-based economy that will help the area maintain its distinctive character, retain and attract back young people and sustain the Welsh language.”

The Wylfa and AAM: Socio-Economic Impact Assessment, Tribal Consultants (2006) document highlights an opportunity to…“develop a future beneficial use for the Gaerwen to Amlwch railway line…. which would include giving consideration to restoring passenger services.”

Amlwch is fortunate to have the recreational and tourism attractions of Parys Mountain, the historical Amlwch Port, and a coastal footpath. All are conveniently located and have easy public access. The Isle of Anglesey County Council would be supportive of Conservation led tourism regeneration.

Canatxx LNG Ltd was recently granted Planning permission for the storage of methane (LNG). It is hoped that the substantial investment required will create employment opportunities both during the construction period and thereafter.

There are notable sites within the Conservation area that offer regeneration development or enhancement opportunities - former Amlwch Brewery site on corner of Chapel Street/Quay Street, the largely vacant Copper Bins, the prominent Mona Mill and others. However, any developments would need to be sympathetic to the character of the Conservation area or its setting.

There are opportunities to improve the transport links between Amlwch and the A55 expressway, that is some 16 miles distance from the town, and beyond, as well as the pedestrian and transport links between the port and town.

There is also scope to improve the access arrangements around the port tourist attractions including the provision of new signage.

The primary railway link infrastructure (Lein Amlwch) is presently not fully utilised. For more than a decade now the railway has been the focus of sporadic but unsuccessful preservation attempts.

Consequently the track has been allowed to deteriorate through lack of maintenance, and several bridges along the route are no longer fit to support any weight.

Current policy is to safeguard the line from inappropriate development that could prejudice its future use as part of a sustainable and integrated transport network. Options to consider include the replacement of the railway infrastructure, for re- instatement as a passenger line or tourist attraction, or to strip away the track and form a cycle path or bridleway.

13. Physical fabric

Sub-Area 1

This sub-area is primarily dominated by the industrial heritage of the port. Buildings and structures, most of which are listed buildings, date from the late 18th to late 19th century and are mainly either of robust exposed stonework (dressed or rubble) or carved out of the rugged landscape to marry comfortably with the surrounding exposed rock face.

In sub-area 1 there are a few buildings and structures and they include; the Harbour Walls, Pier, Lighthouse, Copper Hoppers, Sail Loft and Dry Dock. The general character of sub-area 1 is of a sturdy industrial landscape with buildings and structures tending to be of a larger scale than those found in sub-area 2.

Sub-Area 2

The architectural style in sub-area 2 is predominantly of modest early 19th century terraces. Both the terraces to the north and south of Chapel Street are shown on the William Francis Bodednyfed and Glan Y Llynn map of 1828. (See Appendices IV & V)

The undulating topography between Machine Street and Chapel Street has resulted in varying roof heights that give the streets added character and architectural interest.

Most buildings in this sub-area have rendered stone walls.

Local Building Material and Styles

Styles

Architectural heritage, traditions and Conservation have all become increasingly important.

British architecture has continually evolved over the centuries. As architectural rules and fashion changed each period saw the introduction of their own individual elements and details that came to define the character for that period.

Late Georgian (1765-1811):

The earlier Palladian principles of proportion and uniformity continued to be applied to Late Georgian houses. A strong symmetry e.g. fenestration and chimney stacks etc. is often a striking characteristic of properties dating from this period. (The Harbour Walls date to the Late Georgian period).

Regency and Early 19th century (1811-1837):

Most sophisticated expression of the classical trends. Windows became elongated and mouldings underlined. Rich decorations were typically contrasted against plain areas of brick or fashionable stucco.

Following the Building Act of 1774 all new town houses had to conform to one of four ratings. Fourth-rate houses were the lowliest and could not attain the proportions of the first and second-rate houses.

Victorian (1837-1901):

Between the 1850s and 1870s Britain witnessed a building boom. Gothic Revival (no examples in Amlwch Port) and Classical (Carmel Independent Chapel) detailing were both popular on fashionable public buildings and dwellings of the well to do. The poor however were often supplied with humble flat-fronted terraces.

In between these two extremes stood various identifiable types including: the early Victorian semi-detached villa (based on Regency models), the detached Italianate suburban villa of the 1830s and 1840s with stuccoed ground floor and the detached brick villa based on an asymmetrical plan and Tudor detailing.

The need for services and privacy saw a noticeable increase in the size, height and scale of the upper middle-class Victorian terrace house.

An almost essential feature of all but the most simple of Victorian houses was the bay window.

A High Victorian town house would also typically have elaborate door and window surrounds.

Art Nouveau (1888-1905):

The extravagant Art Nouveau style was never as popular in Britain as it was on the continent.

Edwardian (1901-1914):

Edwardian houses often excelled in scale, proportion, rhythm, colour, and texture. A few Victorian or Edwardian buildings have been erected on infill sites.

Houses from this period generally have a lighter appearance than earlier Victorian houses with more space devoted to windows. The bay window continued to be a popular feature.

Building Material

Walls – walls within the port area (sub-area 1) are of robust exposed stonework (dressed or rubble) whilst front elevations within the built area (sub-area 2) are predominantly painted render on walls of contemporary or traditional construction.

However, there are also good examples of stone faced buildings within sub-area 2 (e.g. former Warehouse on corner of Chapel Street/Bonc-Yr-Odyn). Rendered walls can be rough-cast or smooth.

Unfortunately a pebble dash finish has been introduced to many residential properties within the built area. Alterations to wall surfaces can be the most damaging to the overall appearance of a historic building. Alterations and repairs should respect the existing fabric and match in materials, texture, quality and colour.

The original wagon door opening, leading to the rear, still survives to the side of the Liverpool Arms on Chapel Street.

Render colours – There does not appear to be any dominant colour to facades in the built area. However, pastel-colours are popular on both residential and commercial frontages.

Roofs – the roofs in the built area and port are slate covered. Black, blue and red coloured decorative ridge tiles are all common. However, at least one roof has been replaced in sub-area 2 with alien clay/concrete tiles.

The built area’s roof lines continually alter, because of physical need to address the natural gradient, along the length of Machine Street and Chapel Street. The occasional variation in roof pitch and height gives added interest to the roofscape. The varying roofscape has become an extremely important architectural characteristic of the built area particularly when viewed from the higher ground on Machine Street and Chapel Street.

Roof lines are nearly always dominant features of buildings. The retention of the original shape, pitch, cladding and ornament is therefore important.

Original ridge tiles are plain and functional with no elaborate finials to ends.

Chimney stacks – stacks tend to be rendered with smooth render or modern pebble dash. Chimney stacks are both formal and functional features of the roofscape. Although regrettably some stacks have been reduced in height, removed entirely, or pots removed, thus altering the original character of the buildings, the vast majority are still standing with many retaining their original decorative pots.

Chimneys are prominent features particularly when viewed from higher ground e.g. Machine Street (Stryd y Glorian).

Windows – windows form one of the most significant elements of a building. Their style and proportion vitally affect the character of elevations. Windows are often the dominant feature in otherwise plain facades.

Original or early windows are rare within the Conservation area. A few sash type windows and decorative plaster surrounds still survive. Regrettably unsympathetically styled uPVC replacement windows have been installed to numerous residential and commercial properties in sub-area 2.

Ground floor Bay windows (usually with hipped roofs), which were practically essential features on Victorian houses, are common throughout the built area (e.g. the northern and southern sides of Chapel Street).

The Isle of Anglesey County Council’s Design Guide for the Urban & Rural Environment SPG (2008) contains guidance on Window and Door Design.

Grander and service buildings (e.g. Liverpool Arms) tend to have more numerous and larger scale window openings than domestic buildings. Wall to window proportions can therefore differ greatly dependant on the scale and use of the building. However, there are no grand buildings and only a few service buildings within the Amlwch Port Conservation area.

Domed and dormer windows – Domed and dormer windows are rare features within the Conservation area. The few examples that do exist can be found on Upper Quay Street.

Doors – domestic and public buildings door styles and sizes can vary widely. However, within the Conservation area standard door sizes prevail.

Original doorways and any surviving original doors should be retained. Unavoidable replacement doors should be appropriate to the character of the building. Doors and windows would traditionally have been painted.

A few doors still retain their original decorative plaster surrounds.

Fanlights – simple rectangular transom lights can be found to both residential and commercial properties but are not regarded as overly common features.

Surrounds/Mouldings – decorative plaster surrounds to windows and doors are present in sub-area 2 but again are not an overly common detail.

Porches, canopies and pediments – porches and pediments are in the main rare features although there are prominent flat roofed porticos to be found to the front of the Liverpool Arms and the Adelphi. Slate pitched canopies however can be found along most of Chapel Street and Quay Street. Shelter from the elements is provided by simple deep reveals on several of the remaining properties.

Shop fronts – new shop or commercial property fronts should be designed in sympathy with the elevation and incorporate any ground floor details of interest.

Good examples of recent Conservation refurbishments include; Sail Loft, Chimney nearest to the Sail Loft, and long drop privy. The latter consolidation works to the adjacent Mona Windmill, which is a landmark building clearly visible from the Conservation area, was an important undertaking in preserving the overall character of the historical industrial area.

The Isle of Anglesey County Council’s Design Guide for the Urban & Rural Environment SPG (2008) contains guidance on Shop Fronts, and Blinds, Shutters & Signage.

Pilasters, Head Cases, Finials and Capitals – there are few commercial properties within the Conservation area normally associated with these details, hence the absence of such decorative details.

Cornices (Fascias) / Brickwork – these details are absent from the predominantly simple terraces found in the designated area.

Sundry goods – some original or early cast iron guttering and down pipes may still survive.

Streetscape

Business signage – advertising and lighting can have a considerable impression upon the visual appearance of a street. The design should not dominate or detract from the character and built form of the setting.

Traditional bracketed hanging signs could be appropriate on certain buildings.

Large or internally illuminated signs are not appropriate in a traditional setting. Simple painted signage within the fascia of the shop front, with recessed lighting, are preferred.

Up-lighters, down-lighters and halo lighting are preferred.

Sandwich ‘A’ boards on public footway are not permitted. Multiple advertisement and traffic signage should be constrained to avoid untidy proliferation.

The use of fixed 'Dutch' blinds and shiny plastic blinds, which are not local styles, should be avoided. Traditional canvas box blinds incorporated into timber painted shop front are preferred.

Security Shutters – to help prevent an oppressive after dark street scene shop front, or other commercial property, security measures should use; internal lattice shutters and/or toughened/laminated glass that do not normally require planning permission. Alternatively lattice or perforated colour powder coated shutters incorporated into new shop fronts will need to obtain planning permission.

Street Furniture – an untidy assortment of materials and finish colours have been used on street furniture including: galvanised lighting columns, railings, gates and ladders, a mixture of timber seating (some with iron frames), plastic litter bins, painted floodlighting columns (white) and CCTV Cameras (black), and metal information boards (black).

If possible an uniformity in material and colour should be sought that would greatly improve the visual quality of an area.

Boundary Walls – rendered random rubble boundary walls pre-dominate original dwelling enclosures with most having half round coping (Properties to the South side of Chapel Street). Modern pebble-dash walls with facing brick coping have been introduced to the buildings on the North side of the street.

Much of the historic wall that delineates the extent of the harbour complex along Upper Quay Street is of a mixture of rubble and distinctive copper slag produced by the smelters. The height of the wall appears to have been successively raised.

Street surface – roads and paving generally have a black tarmac finish.

Underneath the tarmac, along the original route of the old tramline, the line shoes remain buried.

The use of Conservation traffic markings and signs will be more appropriate for use in designated Conservation Areas.

Ironwork – Cast Iron railings to property boundaries are not common features. However, iron gates (dates unknown) can be found on the residential properties along Chapel Street etc. Their retention and repair will be supported.

Maritime artefacts (e.g. winches, iron mooring links and anchors,) are dispersed around the port.

Modern metal maritime bollards and steps etc. have been introduced to harbour walls.

Miscellaneous – modern elevated floodlighting columns and CCTV columns have been introduced to the port area.

Summary

• Within the built area (sub-area 2) buildings are predominantly of meanly built flat-fronted working class terraces.

• The varying roofscape (pitch and height) is an extremely important characteristic of the built area.

14. Principal buildings (See Appendix XI)

There are at the time of publication 8 separately listed buildings and structures within, or proposed to be within, the Conservation area as listed below:

1. Harbour Walls of the old harbour – Grade II

2. Pier at the end of the old harbour – Grade II

3. Lighthouse and watchtower, with attached building at the entrance of the old harbour – Grade II

4. Dry Dock – Grade II

5. Copper Hoppers – Grade II

6. Chimney nearest to the Sail Loft – Grade II

7. Sail Loft – Grade II

8. Carmel Independent Chapel and Schoolroom – Grade II

9. Chimney furthest from the Sail Loft – Important building

10. Old Lime Kiln – Important building

11. Water Driven Sawmill – Important building

12. Former Warehouse – Important building

13. Liverpool Arms – Important/Landmark building

Listed below are descriptions of the most notable buildings within the Conservation area.

1. Harbour Walls of the old harbour (Grade II Listed Building c.1793 with 1816 improvements): It has well preserved harbour walls of with Cornish characteristic design influence. The walls are of battered faced stone with long slabs of stone and large natural boulders which are vertically aligned. It is a level quayside alongside the eastern side with long stretches of walling capped with large slabs of stone. On the Western side there is a rubble-built long drop privy with modern single pitch slate roof.

Two-seater toilets perched over the sea were features of both ship yards. The sole surviving example on the western side was restored by the Local Authority in the 1980s. The location of the eastern side toilet is depicted by the remains of its timber base.

The harbour has 2 main parts: the Upper Basin (or inner harbour) at the southern end and the Lower Basin (or outer harbour) at the northern end encompasses a narrow inlet which was widened towards the north end to form docking areas. Part of the western side formed a bay for a ship-building yard. Beyond the docking areas the channel narrows to form a division between inner and outer harbours, which could be completely blocked off to provide a safe haven in severe storms.

The Harbour Master was entitled to command the ship's captains to provide men to haul large baulks of timber (laid one on top of each other) across the harbour entrance to form a water break during severe storms. Today only the winches used to pull the baulks across remain.

2. Pier at the end of the old harbour (Grade II Listed Building c.1816): It is a slightly battered stone faced walls with long slabs of stone and large natural boulders vertically aligned capped with large slabs of stone. (See Appendix XII)

3. Lighthouse and watchtower, with attached building at the entrance of the old harbour (Grade II Listed Building c.1853): It is a well preserved two-storey lighthouse and watchtower (both having battered walls and a hipped roof) with a long single storey range. The lower two storeys have exposed stonework inc. large limestone quoins at angles. Its windows are 6 paned casements. (See Appendix XII)

4. Dry Dock (Grade II Listed Building c. mid-late 19th century): A dry dock which was created by blasting into natural rock faces to enlarge a narrow inlet at the north-eastern end of the Lower Basin or outer harbour. The northern side was built up with walling to match earlier harbour walls. (See Appendix XII)

Note: It is proposed to amend the Conservation area boundary so as to include the above.

5. Sail Loft (Grade II Listed Building c.1870): It was erected to meet the demands of the local shipbuilding industry, and built into the gentle slope above the northern end of the harbour, having an unusual internal sloping floor. There is a long two-storey, three-window range with massive raking buttresses at the western gable end. It is built of stone with roughcast rendered elevations and a modern slate roof. Its window lintels are made of ship’s timbers in which the holes in which there were wooden nails, can still be seen. Today the building is used as a heritage centre by Amlwch Industrial Heritage Trust.

6. Chimney nearest to the Sail Loft (Grade II Listed Building c. late 19th century): It is a circa 15m high rubble stone chimney, square in plan with raking sides, surmounted by circular brickwork.

Note: It is proposed to amend the Conservation area boundary so as to include the above.

7. Copper Hoppers (Grade II Listed Building c. late 18th century): The remains of copper hoppers and ore bins remain today. They were built of rubble masonry with rough stone dressings. Some were originally roofed.

8. Carmel Independent Chapel and Schoolroom (Grade II Listed Building c.1826, enlarged in 1861, schoolroom early 20th century): It is a fine Neo-classical urban chapel with rendered elevations and slate roofs. Later schoolroom is in the Art Nouveau style.

Note: It is proposed to amend the Conservation area boundary so as to include the above.

9. Chimney furthest from the Sail Loft (c. late 19th century): It is a circa 10m high, square in plan, rubble stone chimney.

Note: It is proposed to amend the Conservation area boundary so as to include the above.

10. Old Lime Kiln (c. late 18th century – early 19th century): It is a square rubble stone kiln built into the cliff face with openings to the other three sides. Circular dressed brickwork is seen to the lower level of its inner walls.

11. Water Driven Sawmill (c.1852): They are the structural remains of a historically interesting stone built sawmill built by William Cox Paynter at the outlet of Afon Goch for the shipbuilding industry.

12. Former Warehouse (c. 19th century): It is an interesting three-storey stone built warehouse, retaining its robust oak lintels (possibly maritime salvage) to its blocked up former openings on the front elevation, and situated on a prominent corner plot opposite to where Amlwch Brewery (Brewas Borth) formerly stood.

13. Liverpool Arms (c. 19th century): It is one of only a few remaining inns associated with the port, and has symmetry to its front elevation, its timber portico, and its arched wagon door to the side. (See Appendix XII)

15. Positive and negative elements

Positive Elements

Protection given under Conservation Area and Listed Buildings and designations are helpful tools in safeguarding the special character of the Conservation area.

The Listed Building status of many of the most important buildings within the Conservation area has helped preserve the character, form and architectural detail of the buildings.

The overall form of the Conservation area has remained relatively unchanged.

Additionally numerous original detail survive throughout the Conservation area particularly to the historic port buildings.

Good examples of recent conservation refurbishments include: Sail Loft, Chimney nearest to the Sail Loft, long drop privy, and the nearby Mona Windmill (outside the Conservation area).

It is the loss of architectural detailing, that often contributes greatly to the special character of the area, that is at greatest risk primarily due to lack of building maintenance or unsympathetic alterations.

It is seen as a positive element that there is potential within the Conservation area for enhancement.

Summary

• Numerous original details survive particularly around the historic port.

• There are some good examples of recent sympathetic refurbishments.

• There are opportunities for Sympathetic development or enhancement.

Negative Elements

Despite their protective designation not all listed buildings appear to be in a good state of repair.

A Historic Building Condition Survey (Visual only): Buildings at Risk (BAR) 2007 revealed that 3 of the 8 listed buildings within the proposed new Conservation area boundary were deemed to be in a ‘Vulnerable’ condition. Of the vulnerable buildings identified it is the Carmel Independent Chapel and Schoolroom that is considered to be under gravest threat to becoming structurally ‘At Risk’.

A pebble dashed finish has been introduced to numerous historic residential terraces.

The neglect of general building maintenance e.g. removal of vegetation growth from chimneys and guttering, replacement of missing down pipes, infrequent painting of timberwork etc. will eventually lead to greater costs and loss of historic detailing.

The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB) publication ‘A Stitch in Time: Maintaining your Property Makes Good Sense and Saves Money’ offers valuable advice to historic property owners.

The dilapidated or poor state of repair of a handful of buildings can detract from a Conservation area’s overall visual quality (e.g. derelict single storey building by Carmel Independent Chapel).

The introduction of unlawful uPVC windows and doors to historic buildings can drastically affect the character of elevations.

Unlawful developments may result in enforcement action being taken.

Use of other non-traditional material and detailing can also erode the special interest and character of the Conservation area.

Installation of non-conservation type roof lights can gravely alter the character of roofscapes.

The prominent placing of satellite dishes and wheelie bins can be a visual distraction.

Alterations to shop and commercial property frontages should be designed in sympathy with the elevation and incorporate any ground floor details of interest.

A non-conservation style plastic business sign has been introduced to a prominent commercial property.

Traditional signage should be encouraged particularly in the historic core.

The loss of historic architectural detail is seen as a negative element.

The ‘open space’ created by the demolition of the former Amlwch Brewery (junction of Chapel Street and Quay Street) is currently under used with no clear purpose. Here there is an opportunity for environmental improvements or development.

There has been a lack of public or private investment that may have brought about economic benefits and restored economic confidence. Such investment would help safeguard the building stock and in turn the character of the Conservation area.

Summary

• The lack of maintenance of properties will lead to loss of historic detailing.

• Inappropriate modern cladding, namely pebble dash, have been introduced.

• The introduction of non-conservation type roof lights and unsympathetically styled uPVC windows and doors can drastically affect the character of Conservation areas.

• Prominent satellite dishes and wheelie bins can be a visual distraction.

• Non-conservation style plastic business signage has also been introduced to a prominent commercial property.

Unlawful developments may result in enforcement action being taken.

16. Appendices

INDEX

Appendix I Proposed change to Conservation area boundary plan

Appendix II Aerial photograph

Appendix III 1780 Richard Owen map

Appendix IV 1828 William Francis map (colour)

Appendix V 1828 William Francis map

Appendix VI 1842 Tithe Map

Appendix VII 1868 Plan of Iard Newydd

Appendix VIII 1888 O.S. Map (First Edition)

Appendix IX 1900 Map

Appendix X Significant Views

Appendix XI Principal Views

Appendix XII Additional Historic Photographs

Gwerthfawrogiad Cymeriad Ardal Cadwraeth Amlwch Port Porth Amlwch Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Atodiad I Appendix I

Cynllun newid arfaethedig i derfyn ardal Proposed change to conservation area cadwraeth boundary plan

77 Gwerthfawrogiad Cymeriad Ardal Cadwraeth Amlwch Port Porth Amlwch Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Atodiad II Appendix II

Awyrlun Aerial Photograph

78 Gwerthfawrogiad Cymeriad Ardal Cadwraeth Amlwch Port Porth Amlwch Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Atodiad III Appendix III

Map Richard Owen 1780 1780 Richard Owen Map

Atgynhyrchwyd gan ganiatad caredig Gwasaaeth Llyfrgell ac Archifau, Prifysgol Cymru Bangor (Cyf.: Llwydiarth Esgob MS FS638) Reproduced by kind permission of The Department of Archives and Manuscripts, University of Wales Bangor (Ref.: Llwydiarth Esgob MS FS638)

79 Gwerthfawrogiad Cymeriad Ardal Cadwraeth Amlwch Port Porth Amlwch Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Atodiad IV Appendix IV

Map William Francis 1828 1828 William Francis Map (Lliw) (Colour)

Atgynhyrchwyd gan ganiatad caredig Gwasaaeth Llyfrgell ac Archifau, Prifysgol Cymru Bangor (Cyf.: Llwydiarth Esgob MS FS639/640) Reproduced by kind permission of The Department of Archives and Manuscripts, University of Wales Bangor (Ref.: Llwydiarth Esgob MS FS639/640)

80 Gwerthfawrogiad Cymeriad Ardal Cadwraeth Amlwch Port Porth Amlwch Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Atodiad V Appendix V

Map William Francis 1828 1828 William Francis Map

Atgynhyrchwyd gan ganiatad caredig Gwasaaeth Llyfrgell ac Archifau, Prifysgol Cymru Bangor (Cyf.: Llwydiarth Esgob MS FS639/640) Reproduced by kind permission of The Department of Archives and Manuscripts, University of Wales Bangor (Ref.: Llwydiarth Esgob MS FS639/640)

81 Gwerthfawrogiad Cymeriad Ardal Cadwraeth Amlwch Port Porth Amlwch Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Atodiad VI Appendix VI

Map Degwm 1842 1842 Tithe Map

Atgynhyrchwyd gan ganiatad caredig Gwasaaeth Llyfrgell ac Archifau, Prifysgol Cymru Bangor (Cyf.: Plas Newydd MS Series VII 4978) Reproduced by kind permission of The Department of Archives and Manuscripts, University of Wales Bangor (Ref.: Plas Newydd MS Series VII 4978)

82 Gwerthfawrogiad Cymeriad Ardal Cadwraeth Amlwch Port Porth Amlwch Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Atodiad VII Appendix VII

Cynllun Iard Newydd 1868 1868 Plan of Iard Newydd

83 Gwerthfawrogiad Cymeriad Ardal Cadwraeth Amlwch Port Porth Amlwch Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Atodiad VIII Appendix VIII

Map OS 1888 (Argraffiad Cyntaf) 1888 OS Map (First Edition)

Atgynhyrchwyd gan ganiatad caredig Gwasaaeth Llyfrgell ac Archifau, Prifysgol Cymru Bangor (Cyf.: Anglesey O.S. First Edition Sheet III N.E.) Reproduced by kind permission of The Department of Archives and Manuscripts, University of Wales Bangor (Ref.: Anglesey O.S. First Edition Sheet III N.E.)

84 Gwerthfawrogiad Cymeriad Ardal Cadwraeth Amlwch Port Porth Amlwch Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Atodiad IX Appendix IX

Map 1900 1900 Map

Atgynhyrchwyd gan ganiatad caredig Gwasaaeth Llyfrgell ac Archifau, Prifysgol Cymru Bangor (Cyf.: Plas Newydd MS Series VIII 4989) Reproduced by kind permission of The Department of Archives and Manuscripts, University of Wales Bangor (Ref.: Plas Newydd MS Series VIII 4989)

85 Gwerthfawrogiad Cymeriad Ardal Cadwraeth Amlwch Port Porth Amlwch Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Atodiad X Appendix X

Golygfeydd Pwysig Significant Views

86 Gwerthfawrogiad Cymeriad Ardal Cadwraeth Amlwch Port Porth Amlwch Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Atodiad XI Appendix XI

Prif Adeiladau Principal Buildings

87 Gwerthfawrogiad Cymeriad Ardal Cadwraeth Amlwch Port Porth Amlwch Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Atodiad XII Appendix XII

Lluniau Hanesyddol Ychwanegol Additional Historic Photographs

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