Forgotten British Dishes Dishes Discovered and Created by Matthew Fort & Anthony Garlando This Menu Is Only Available from Monday to Thursday

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Forgotten British Dishes Dishes Discovered and Created by Matthew Fort & Anthony Garlando This Menu Is Only Available from Monday to Thursday Forgotten British Dishes Dishes discovered and created by Matthew Fort & Anthony Garlando This menu is only available from Monday to Thursday. 78 per person Wine pairing 50 supplement The story of food is the history of our country. Every plate is a record of people, place and time. By researching, sourcing and developing many long-forgotten British dishes, food writer and broadcaster Matthew Fort and Executive Head Chef Anthony Garlando have worked together to curate a selection of dishes that celebrate our culinary culture with a contemporary twist. This menu is designed to celebrate the beauties of autumn. The dishes show off not only the quality and characteristics of our seasonal ingredients, but also the sophistication and subtlety with which our ancestors used them. Course one Roasted cep mushrooms on toast Mustard dressing, marigold leaves | C, L, M, MU, SU Inspired by Kitchen Essays by Lady Jekyll (1922) Roasted cep mushrooms have been cooked with garlic and fresh herbs, layered between toasted mushroom shaped brioche, fresh shaved cep salad seasoned with mustard and fresh marigold leaves. Agnes Jekyll, DBE (1861-1936) was an artist, hostess, philanthropist and sister-in-law of the great gardener, Gertrude Jekyll. Made Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire in 1918 for her public works, she was one of the earliest newspaper cookery writers, writing for The Times between 1921 and 1922 and her essays and recipes paint a vivid picture of high bourgeois entertaining during the period Lyme Bay Shoreline, Devon, England, 2018 Course two Cornish red mullet Crispy potato, prawn mousse, lemon & white port sauce |E, F, M, SU Inspired by Modern Cookery for Private Families by Eliza Acton (1845) The red mullet is from the Cornish coast, pan seared until golden and crispy, the mousse is lightly steamed. The fish sauce made using the bones of the fish, white port, cream and finished with confit lemon skin. A rich, rollicking dish based on ’To roast, bake or broil red mullet’ in Modern Cookery for Private Families, one of the first cookery books to ‘go into the minutest of detail…’ Delia Smith called Eliza ‘the best writer of recipes in the English language’ and she was also responsible for the first recipe for Christmas pudding, hitherto referred to as plum pudding. Hattingley Valley Classic Reserve, Hampshire, England, nv Course three Red legged partridge pudding Roasted breast, preserved black currants | C, L, SU Inspired by Good Things in England by Florence White (1932) The partridge is from Yorkshire dales and is aged for optimum flavour and tenderness. We confit the legs with vegetables and herbs and place inside a suet-based dough for steaming. The breast is roasted on the bone removed and glazed with a reduce partridge gravy. The blackberries are seasoned with black pepper and raspberry vinegar. Good Things in England is one of the great compendiums of British Recipes, gathered from domestic cooks all over the country. Florence attributes the recipe for Partridge Pudding to no-one in particular, but she prefaces with a quote from H. J. G. Pevensey ‘Said to have its genesis in Saxon times in the district of Ashdown Forest, Sussex, it has the merit of simplicity being as easy to make as any ordinary beef steak pudding’. Renegade London Wine ‘Vern’ Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon, London, England, 2017 Course four Nesselrode ice pudding Chestnut wafer, preserved fruit parfait, chocolate sauce C, E, L, M, SU Inspired by Mellish’s Cookery by Katherine Mellish (1901) Our parfait is made using eggs, cream and preserved fruit, we sandwich the frozen parfait between 2 chestnut wafers. The chocolate sauce is rich and velvety and is seasoned with kirch. Intended to be eaten by hand Although given no official provenance, this stupendous pudding was said to have been originally created by the great Frenchman Antoine Carême in 1814 for the diplomat Count Karl Von Nesselrode. Chef de cuisine to the Prince Regent, he was only in this country for three years but left a lasting mark on cooking in England and the Nesselrode ice pudding was the most popular dish of the 19th century, particularly among the English upper classes. Entice Late harvested Bacchus, Hattingley Valley, Hampshire, England, 2018 Provenances Proudly serving the best of Britain Merrifield Duck Devon | Goat’s Curd Dorstone, Herefordshire | Native Lobster Scotland Heritage Radish Norfolk | Arren Victory Potato Cornhill-on-Tweed | Lamb Saddle Block & Cleaver, Kent All dishes may contain allergens. Please let your waiter know if you have any severe allergens or intolerances. All prices include VAT at the current rate. A 12.5% discretionary service charge will be added to the final bill. All items subject to availability. Our menus are sample menus and are subject to change. v - vegetarian vg - vegan Key to allergens: C - cereals containing gluten, CE - celery and celeriac, CR - crustaceans, E - eggs, F - fish,L - lupin, P - peanuts, M - milk, MO - molluscs, MU - mustard, N - nuts, S - soya beans, SE - sesame, SU - sulphur dioxide.
Recommended publications
  • Christmas Past Recipes
    Christmas Past Recipes Roasting the Christmas baron of beef at Windsor Castle in 1856. HISTORIC FOOD COOKERY COURSES Recipes of dishes made or sampled on The Taste of Christmas Cookery Courses 2009. TO MAKE A HACKIN. From a Gentleman in Cumberland. SIR, THERE are some Counties in England, whose Customs are never to be set aside and our Friends in Cumberland, as well as some of our Neighbours in Lancashire, and else-where, keep them up. It is a Custom with us every Christmas-Day in the Morning, to have, what we call an Hackin, for the Breakfast of the young Men who work about our House; and if this Dish is not dressed by that time it is Day-light, the Maid is led through the Town, between two Men, as fast as they can run with her, up Hill and down Hill, which she accounts a great shame. But as for the Receipt to make this Hackin, which is admired so much by us, it is as follows. Take the Bag or Paunch of a Calf, and wash it, and clean it well with Water and Salt ; then take some Beef-Suet, and shred it small, and shred some Apples, after they are pared and cored, very small. Then put in some Sugar, and some Spice beaten small, a little Lemon-Peel cut very fine, and a little Salt, and a good quantity of Grots, or whole Oat-meal, steep'd a Night in Milk; then mix thefe all together, and add as many Currans pick'd clean from the Stalks, and rubb'd in a coarfe Cloth ; but let them not be wash'd.
    [Show full text]
  • Halligan's Love Affair with Food
    Coolabah, No.5, 2011, ISSN 1988-5946, Observatori: Centre d’Estudis Australians, Australian Studies Centre, Universitat de Barcelona Halligan’s Love Affair with Food Anne Holden Rønning Copyright©2011 Anne Holden Rønning. This text may be archived and redistributed both in electronic form and in hard copy, provided that the author and journal are properly cited and no fee is charged. Abstract: Marion Halligan’s non-fiction Eat My Words, (1990), Cockles of the Heart (1996) and The Taste of Memory (2004) all have food as their main topic. Travelling round Europe on culinary journeys and staying in hotels and flats she provides us, as readers, with a wealth of recipes and reflections on the role food plays in people’s lives, socially and culturally. This article will discuss some few of the points Halligan raises as she comments on the pleasure of food; on bricolage, both in the finished product and in cookery books; and the language we use to describe food and its processes. Adopting a bicultural approach Halligan compares Australian foods of today with those of her childhood, thus turning these food books into a kind of autobiography. Keywords: food; pleasure; bricolage and cookery books; naming. In Eat My Words Marion Halligan cites Alexis Soyer in his 1853 book The Pantropheon as being “fond of saying that people only eat to live when they don’t know how to live to eat,” thus underscoring the importance of food culturally and historically. To these words Halligan adds: “Chefs, whose livelihood is other’s eating, know that the best food begins in the mind” (209).
    [Show full text]
  • Arthur Conan Doyle and Isabella Beeton Kate Thomas Bryn Mawr College, [email protected]
    Bryn Mawr College Scholarship, Research, and Creative Work at Bryn Mawr College English Faculty Research and Scholarship English 2008 Alimentary: Arthur Conan Doyle and Isabella Beeton Kate Thomas Bryn Mawr College, [email protected] Let us know how access to this document benefits ouy . Follow this and additional works at: http://repository.brynmawr.edu/engl_pubs Part of the English Language and Literature Commons Custom Citation Thomas, Kate. "Alimentary: Arthur Conan Doyle and Isabella Beeton." Victorian Literature and Culture 36, no. 2 (2008): 375-390. This paper is posted at Scholarship, Research, and Creative Work at Bryn Mawr College. http://repository.brynmawr.edu/engl_pubs/5 For more information, please contact [email protected]. Victorian Literature and Culture (2008), 36, 375–390. Printed in the United States of America. Copyright C 2008 Cambridge University Press. 1060-1503/08 $15.00 doi:10.1017/S1060150308080248 ALIMENTARY: ARTHUR CONAN DOYLE AND ISABELLA BEETON By Kate Thomas 2450. The human body, materially considered, is a beautiful piece of mechanism, consisting of many parts, each one being the centre of a system, and performing its own vital function irrespectively of the others, and yet dependent for its vitality upon the harmony and health of the whole ...the mouth secretes saliva, to soften and macerate the food; the liver forms its bile, to separate the nutriment from the digested aliment ...the veins, equally busy, are carrying away the debris´ and refuse collected from where the zoophyte arteries are building, – this refuse, in its turn, being conveyed to the liver, there to be converted into bile. —Isabella Beeton, The Book of Household Management (1861) There were long seats of stone within the chimney, where, in despite of the tremendous heat, monarchs were sometimes said to have taken their station, and amused themselves with broiling the umbles,or dowsels, of the deer, upon the glowing embers, with their own royal hands, when happy the courtier who was invited to taste the royal cookery.
    [Show full text]
  • Erature Was Not Always Slavishly Followed, Adherence to These Values, Both at Work and at Home, Could Help Cement the Family’S Social Status
    University of Alberta Science, Technology, and Management in the Middle-Class English Home, c. 1800-1880 by Caroline Lieffers A thesis submitted to the Faculty of Graduate Studies and Research in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in History Department of History and Classics ©Caroline Lieffers Fall 2010 Edmonton, Alberta Permission is hereby granted to the University of Alberta Libraries to reproduce single copies of this thesis and to lend or sell such copies for private, scholarly or scientific research purposes only. Where the thesis is converted to, or otherwise made available in digital form, the University of Alberta will advise potential users of the thesis of these terms. The author reserves all other publication and other rights in association with the copyright in the thesis and, except as herein before provided, neither the thesis nor any substantial portion thereof may be printed or otherwise reproduced in any material form whatsoever without the author's prior written permission. Examining Committee Supervisor: Professor Beverly Lemire, Department of History and Classics, University of Alberta Internal Examiner: Professor Susan Smith, Department of History and Classics, University of Alberta Internal/External Examiner: Professor Susan Hamilton, Department of English and Film Studies, University of Alberta Abstract The nineteenth-century English middle class was strongly influenced by science, industry, and capitalist managerial techniques. These trends also made their way into the domestic space, where women negotiated their application, particularly in the kitchen. This thesis examines domestic life in the context of the popularization of science and the history of technology and management to come to a fuller understanding of how middle-class women ran their homes between about 1800 and 1880, a period of broad industrialisation and business growth.
    [Show full text]
  • Elizabeth David Summary Elizabeth David
    Elizabeth David Summary Elizabeth David (26.12.1913 – 22.5.1992) is well-known as an influential cookery writer. Born into an upper-class family, she was rebellious and restless. She defied conventions and in 1939 travelled across Europe with a married lover. As World War 2 broke out, they had to flee the advancing German army. After the war and back in England, she started publishing magazine articles and books. These introduced readers to a world of food and eating so different to that experienced during the recent wartime austerity. Early life and education Elizabeth David was born Elizabeth Gwynne at Wootton Manor, near Polegate and christened at St Peter’s, Folkington. Her father Rupert Gwynne was Conservative MP for Eastbourne (1911 – 1924) and her mother Stella Ridley was the daughter of Viscount Ridley. Initially, Elizabeth and her three sisters were educated at home, but when their father died suddenly in 1924, the two oldest (Priscilla and Elizabeth) were sent away to boarding school although both possibly spent a short time in Eastbourne schools1. A younger sister went to Moira House. At 16, Elizabeth’s mother arranged for her to live in Paris with a French family and to study French language, literature and history at the Sorbonne.2 After eighteen months in Paris, Elizabeth’s mother sent her to Munich to learn German and to continue painting studies, living with an aristocratic German family.3 Personal History 1932 - 1946 Elizabeth returned to England and started to teach herself to cook. Until then she had always lived in houses with servants but now was fending for herself while trying to become an actress.4 She joined the Oxford Repertory Company and later the Regents Park Open Air Theatre and had small parts in a number of productions.
    [Show full text]
  • From the Library of Christopher Hogwood
    from the library of christopher hogwood books & manuscripts on food & drink BERNARD QUARITCH LTD 40 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET, LONDON W1K 2PR +44 (0)20 7297 4888 [email protected] www.quaritch.com For enquiries about this catalogue, please contact: Mark James ([email protected]) or Anke Timmermann ([email protected]) important notice: Items marked with an * are subject to VAT within the EU Bankers: Barclays Bank PLC, 1 Churchill Place, London E14 5HP Sort code: 20-65-82 Swift code: BARCGB22 Sterling account IBAN: GB98 BARC 206582 10511722 Euro account IBAN: GB30 BARC 206582 45447011 US Dollar account IBAN: GB46 BARC 206582 63992444 VAT number: GB 840 1358 54 Mastercard, Visa and American Express accepted. Cheques should be made payable to: Bernard Quaritch Limited © Bernard Quaritch Ltd 2016 from the library of christopher hogwood books & manuscripts on food & drink introduction & biography the seventeenth century ………………………………….. items 8- the eighteenth century ………………………………...…. items 80- 74 the nineteenth century …………………………………… items 7 - modern cooking ……………………………………..……. items 7- 6 index & bibliography BERNARD QUARITCH LIMITED ∙ antiquarian booksellers since 847 ∙ list 2086/85 christopher hogwood cbe (8 78- 2087 Throughout his 50-year career, conductor, musicologist and keyboard player Christopher Hogwood applied his synthesis of scholarship and performance with enormous artistic and popular success. Spearheading the movement that became known as ‘historically-informed performance’, he promoted it to the mainstream through his work on 17th- and 18th-century repertoire with the Academy of Ancient Music, and went on to apply its principles to music of all periods with the world’s leading symphony orchestras and opera houses.
    [Show full text]
  • Victorian Recipes the Authors Christmas
    Victorian Recipes The Authors Christmas Pudding (from ‘Modern Cookery for private families’ Eliza Acton 1860) Flour, 3oz Breadcrumbs, 3 oz Suet Stoned raisins and currants, each, 6 oz Minced apples, 4 oz Sugar, 5 oz Candied peel, 2 oz Spice, ½ teaspoonful Salt Few grains Brandy, small wineglassful, Eggs, 3 To three ounces of flour, and the same weight of fine, lightly-grated bread- crumbs, add six of beef kidney-suet, chopped small, six of raisins weighed after they are stoned, six of well-cleaned currants, four ounces of mined apples, five of sugar, two of candied orange-rind, half a teaspoonful of nutmeg mixed with pounded mace, a very little salt. A small glass of brandy, and three whole eggs. Mix and beat these ingredients well together, tie them tightly in a thickly floured cloth, and boil them for three hours and half. We can recommend this as a remarkably light small rich pudding: it may be served with German, wine or punch sauce. (KH notes: This is more cake like than a modern Christmas Pudding. It might not keep as long so don’t make it too early) Gingerbread - Another sort (from ‘Modern Domestic Cookery’ 1857 - Murray’s Modern Cookery book based on Mrs. Rundell) To 3/4Ib of treacle beat 1 egg strained; mix 4oz of brown sugar, 1/2oz of ginger sifted; of cloves, mace, allspice, nutmeg, 1/4oz. together, beaten as find as possible; coriander and caraway seeds, each 1/4oz; melt 1lb of butter and mix with the above; and add as much flour as will knead into a pretty stiff paste; then roll it out, and cut into cakes.
    [Show full text]
  • WOMEN and VICTORIAN VALUES, 1837-1910: Parts 5 to 7
    WOMEN AND VICTORIAN VALUES, 1837-1910: Parts 5 to 7 WOMEN AND VICTORIAN VALUES, 1837-1910 Advice Books, Manuals and Journals for Women Part 5: Sources from the Bodleian Library, Oxford Part 6: Sources from the Brotherton Library, University of Leeds Part 7: Sources from the Brotherton Library, University of Leeds Contents listing PUBLISHER'S NOTE - PART 5 CONTENTS OF REELS - PART 5 PUBLISHER'S NOTE - PARTS 6 & 7 EDITORIAL INTRODUCTION CONTENTS OF REELS - PART 6 CONTENTS OF REELS - PART 7 WOMEN AND VICTORIAN VALUES, 1837-1910: Parts 5 to 7 Publisher's Note - Part 5 In our series Women and Victorian Values, 1837-1910 we offer a wide selection of materials concerning the many roles played by women in the Victorian period. During the Victorian and Edwardian periods society was underpinned by rigid moral and social values; with ideal forms of masculine and feminine behaviour. Moral respectability and domesticity were important ideologies of feminine behaviour. The ‘woman’s mission’ was that of supportive wife, dutiful daughter, and caring mother, and the woman’s domestic role was seen as an important and pivotal part of society. It was especially important that mothers should teach their children the values of Christian morality, which formed the foundation of society. For men society dictated they take the authoritative role as head of the household. The public sphere of society was controlled by male authority, with very little room for women. In Part 5 of Women and Victorian Values we concentrate on the writings of sixteen Victorian authors from Sarah Adams to Charlotte Yonge.
    [Show full text]
  • 200 Tugboat, Volume 36 (2015), No. 3 History of Cookbooks Taco Hoekwater Introduction Cookbooks As We Know Them, with Detailed I
    200 TUGboat, Volume 36 (2015), No. 3 History of cookbooks Apicius, a.k.a. ‘De re coquinaria’ Taco Hoekwater Whereas ‘Life of Luxury’ seems to have been more of a travel guide, the Roman recipe collection known Introduction as ‘Apicius’ was intended to be used while cooking. Cookbooks as we know them, with detailed instruc- tions, ingredient list, and illustrations, are a fairly modern invention. This paper presents some famous cookbooks from history, starting in ancient Greece and ending with Internet-based modern approaches. The Life of Luxury Archestratus was a Greek writer and traveller who lived in the 4th century BCE. Coming from Sicily (then a Greek colony) he travelled throughout the Mediterranean. He wrote a poem called ‘Hedy- patheia’ (meaning ‘Pleasant Living’ or ‘Life of Lux- ury’). The original of the poem is lost, but luckily parts of it were quoted in another ancient work, and so some 60 verses are still known. Compiled around the start of the 5th century, it is a collection of ten books on various topics related to food and cooking. It has actual recipes, although not quite the way we are used to them. An example: ANOTHER LAMB STEW — put kid or lamb in the stew pot with chopped onion and co- riander. crush pepper, lovage, cumin, and cook with broth oil and wine. put in a dish and tie with roux. Apicius, translation from Project Gutenberg This recipe is concise almost to the point of useless- ness, but that is a common problem with historical cookbooks: for most of their history, cookbooks were written by professional cooks for professional cooks Here is a small sample: (working for royalty and popes).
    [Show full text]
  • History and Bakes a Resource Pack for Schools
    THE IPSWICH BISCUIT History and Bakes A Resource Pack for Schools Contents About the Ipswich Biscuit 5 How to use this resource pack: a teacher’s guide 6 Key stages overview 7 SECTION A: KEY STAGE 1-2 9 Lesson 1: Eliza Acton 10 Worksheet (1) 12 Worksheet (2) 15 Lesson 2: Nutrition and Biscuits 28 Handout (1) 32 Worksheet (1) 33 Lesson 3: Ipswich and Biscuits 35 Worksheet (1) 37 Contents SECTION B: KEY STAGE 3 - 4 39 Lesson 1: Client Briefing – Ipswich Biscuit 40 Worksheet (1) 42 Lesson 2: Nutrition and Biscuits 48 Worksheet (1) 50 SECTION C: REFLECTIONS ON THE HISTORY OF BISCUITS 56 from Professor of Archaeological Science, Martin Jones Food for Journeyors 57 Biscuits as text 58 The contents of this pack have been produced by Pacitti Company 2019. You may use it for educational purposes only. Images and other content may be subject to third party copyright licenses. About Imagine if Ipswich were to have its own namesake biscuit. Something delicious with the word ‘Ipswich’ clearly stamped or pricked or marked on it. Can we make the town known with a great bake? The Ipswich Biscuit is a project where art meets science through a public crafting of baked goods. 5 How to use this resource pack This pack is for schools interested in taking part in the Ipswich Biscuit Competition. This pack has a focus on learning about local historical figures, the history of biscuits, baking skills and nutrition, as well as further activity in design. It offers lesson plans and worksheets for teachers and students during class time.
    [Show full text]
  • A CURRIED GAZE: the BRITISH OWNERSHIP of CURRY By
    A CURRIED GAZE: THE BRITISH OWNERSHIP OF CURRY by DARLENE MICHELLE WALDROP (Under the Direction of MICHAEL KWASS) ABSTRACT Curry as we understand it today is the result of over four hundred years of interaction between the British and the people living on the Indian subcontinent. At its core, curry is a British construction. It is an understanding of Indian cuisine as expressed by legions of Anglo- Indians since the seventeenth century. Furthermore, curry is one of the most successful symbols of the British Imperial endeavor in India. It is one example of the British success at taking something of the Other and making it part of the British self. INDEX WORDS: Curry, Anglo-Indian, Domesticity, Cookery, Imperialism A CURRIED GAZE: THE BRITISH OWNERSHIP OF CURRY by DARLENE MICHELLE WALDROP B.A., Kennesaw State University, 1999 A Thesis Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of The University of Georgia in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree MASTER OF ARTS ATHENS, GEORGIA 2007 © 2007 DARLENE MICHELLE WALDROP All Rights Reserved A CURRIED GAZE: THE BRITISH OWNERSHIP OF CURRY by DARLENE MICHELLE WALDROP Major Professor: Michael Kwass Committee: Laura Mason David Roberts Electronic Version Approved: Maureen Grasso Dean of the Graduate School The University of Georgia May 2007 iv ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS This work is dedicated primarily to my husband Duane. Without his love, support, sense of humor, sense of adventure, patience and strong stomach I would not have been able to undertake this labour. Secondly, I would like to thank my parents, Judy and Donnie, who have always supported my love of learning.
    [Show full text]
  • Taco Hoekwater the Life of Luxury
    Cookbook History Taco Hoekwater The Life of Luxury Archestratus Ancient greek traveller 4th century B.C. Apicius ! AKA “De re coquinaria” Roman recipe collection كتاب الطبيخ Kitab al-Tabikh: “The Book of Dishes” Arabic 10th century Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq كتاب الطبيخ Kitab al-Tabikh: “The Book of Dishes” Arabic 13th century Muhammad bin Hasan al- Baghdadi Liber de Coquina French Early 14th century unknown authors Le Viandier French Early 14th century Guillaume Tirel the “French Cuisine” Das Buoch von guoter Spise Around 1350 Text in German Forme of Cury English, around 1390 AD Text in Middle English For to Make Blank Maunger ! Put rys in water al a nyzt and at morowe waisshe hem clene, afterward put hem to þe fyre fort berst & not to myche. ssithen take brawn of Ca pouns, or of hennes. soden & drawe it smale. after take mylke of Almandes. and put in to þe Ryys & boile it. and whan it is yboi led put in þe brawn & alye it þerwith. þat it be wel chargeaunt Wel ende edelike spijse • “Good and Noble Food” Reygers cranen gantes wilde velt hoendere faysante lemmoegen soo • Dutch, 1450-1500 sal men braden ende laerderen ende eten met eenen pepere wel ghewijnt ende wel ghecruut wel heet van haren smoute De honesta voluptate et valetudine ! “On honourable pleasure and health" Italian, 1475 Bartolomeo Platina printed Een notabel boecxken van cokeryen ! “A notable little cookery book’ Dutch, 1514 Printed Opera dell'arte del cucinare “Works of Art of Cooking” Italy, 1570 Bartolomeo Scappi six books Le Cuisinier roïal et bourgeois François Massialot French,
    [Show full text]