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The Far North

Includes  Why Go? Tromsø...... 313 ’s northernmost counties of Troms and arc Alta...... 323 across the very top of Europe, where broad horizons share Hammerfest. . . . .326 the land with dense forest. Like most of the relatively few Nordkapp & visitors who make it this far north, come in summer to enjoy Magerøya...... 330 Tromsø, the region’s only town of any size. The museums of this sparky, self-confident place will orient you for the Arctic Bru...... 334 lands beyond. You’ll probably respond to the call of Nord- Vadsø...... 335 kapp (North Cape), the European mainland’s self-declared Vardø ...... 337 most northerly point. But to really feel the pull of the north, Kirkenes...... 338 you need to venture further to explore the sparsely popu- ...... 343 lated plateaus of Inner Finnmark and its wild northeastern coast, the Norwegian heartland of the Sami people. For al- ternative adventure (say, scudding aboard a snowmobile­ or behind a team of yapping huskies), plan to return in winter, when soft blue light envelops the snowy lands, outsiders are Best Places to even fewer and the northern lights streak the sky. Eat ¨¨Gammen (p345) ¨¨Gapahuken (p341) When to Go ¨¨Restaurant Haldde (p325) Tromsø ¨ ¨Emma’s Drømekjøkken °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm (p319) 40/104 12/300

20/68 8/200 Best Places to Stay 0/32 4/100 ¨¨Engholm Husky Design -20/-4 0 Lodge (p345) J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨¨Rica Ishavshotel (p319) ¨¨Sollia Gjestegård (p341) Early Feb Lots of Easter week The Mid- to late Jun snowy activities Sami party in Hotels and sights ¨¨Thon Hotel Kautokeino and, with luck, the Kautokeino before reopen, and the (p346) northern lights dispersing to their crowds have yet to ¨¨Bungalåven Vertshus on tap. summer pastures. come. (p333) 313 The Far North TroSightsmsø

------SHIP adult/

MUSEUM R CA CABLE adult/child adult/child

Solliveien 12; Solliveien

RIUM AQUA MUSEUM, For a fine view a fine of For 10am-1am late May–mid- late 10am-1am 10am-5pm mid-Jun–mid- 10am-5pm h h

10am-7pm mid-May–Aug, to mid-May–Aug, 10am-7pm Daringly designed Po designed Daringly h Lars Thøringsvei 10; Thøringsvei Lars www.fjellheisen.no;

Hjalmar Johansens gate 12; gate Johansens Hjalmar

9am-6pm Jun-Aug, 10am-4.30pm Jun-Aug, 9am-6pm h

polaria.no; Between 1949 and 1981, this historic Between Fjellheisen Polaria 77 63 87 37; 87 77 63 There’s also a replica ‘northern lights There’s % 5pm Sep–mid-May) Near the southern end of Tromsøya, this mu the southern end of Tromsøya, Near dour of the aurora borealis. dour of the aurora (adult/child Nkr25/10; (adult/child Museum University Tromsø (www.uit.no/tmu; and documented seum has well-presented and modern Sami life, on traditional displays ecclesiastical art and accoutrements, and a sectionsmall Vikings. Downstairs,the on the northrocks of learn about aand ponder themes (suchnumber of thought-provoking the consequences of globalas the role of fire, warming and loss of wilderness). that terrella, an early invention or machine’, a sense of the splen in miniature you gives o (www. laria is an entertaining multimedia intro ductionnorthernto Svalbard.and Norway about thefilm After an excellent 14-minute (screened everylatter 30 minutes), plus another about the northern lights, an Arc on shrinking seatic walk leads to displays aquariums of ice, a northern lights display, – a trio of and – the big draw fish cold-water energetic bearded seals. Polstjerna M/S ing stained-glass window that occupiesing stained-glass that window al most eastwhole of the the end depicts Christ to earth.descending Look towards the back the contemporary end and west a work organ, inof steely then up high to take art in itself, Czech crystal,the lamps of in space hanging 20 or 24. bus icicles. Take like o ( Nkr140/60; adult/child bus 26 Take of hiking routes radiates. work and cable-car ticketand buy a combined bus Nkr145/65). (adult/child seal-hunting ship killed (or ‘brought home’, seal-hunting ship killed (or ‘brought home’, euphemistically expressesas the literature it) nearly 100,000 seals. Aug) Nkr50/25; Aug, shorter hours rest of year) of rest hours shorter Aug, Mon-Fri, noon-3pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun Sep-May) Sat, noon-3pm Mon-Fri, and auroral curtains. auroral and The glow magnificent child Nkr120/60; the city and midnight sun, take the cable car sun, take and midnight the city to the top of Mt Storsteinen (421m). There’s the top, from where a net at a restaurant

­ - - - - - CH Hans , the CHUR

(Storgata 94; (Storgata

(Storgata)

Domkirke www.ishavskatedralen.no;

. Both were built in 1861 and built in 1861 . Both were Catholic Church Catholic 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 1-7pm Sat & Sun Sat 1-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm adult/child Nkr40/free, organ recitals recitals organ Nkr40/free, adult/child

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The 11 arching triangles of the Arctic and its winter equivalent both pro and its winter equivalent Sights Summer Activities in in Summer Activities tourist office’s Cathedral Arctic Around town you’llAround in a number of find Although the city lies almost 400kmAlthough the city The main part of town stretches along the 9am-7.30pm) POP 67,300 Jun–mid-Aug, 3-6pm Apr, May & mid-Aug–Dec, 2-6pm & mid-Aug–Dec, May Apr, 3-6pm Jun–mid-Aug, & Mar) Feb Cathedral (1965), as the Tromsdalen Church is (1965), as the Tromsdalen Cathedral suggestcalled, usually more crevassesglacial o (Ishavskatedralen; h northernmost – ‘theer superlative world’s of its sect. bishopric’ teresting churches. Tromsø checklisttours and of vide a comprehensive activities. 1 The trative centre of Troms county, it’s lively with lively it’s county, of Troms centre trative street an animated cultural bashes, buskers, a respect scene, a midnight-sun marathon, Brewery Mack the hallowed ed university, other than any – and more pubs per capita of snow-toppedNorwegian corona town. Its excellent peaks provides arresting scenery, skiing and dog- hiking in summer and great Tromsø parties. By far the largest Simply put, Tromsø town in northern and the adminis Norway sledding in winter. north of the Arctic is Circle, its climate by the Gulf Stream.pleasantly moderated The by round- long winter darkness is offset the-clock activity during the perpetually of summer. bright days to linked east shore of the island of Tromsøya, the mainland by a gracefully arched bridge. Troms, where the Gulf Stream peters Stream the Gulf where out, Troms, boasts a of winter, the harshness mitigating Tromsø, places: of near-superlative couple to merit the enough large the only place in northernname ‘city’ and Senja,Norway; troddenless a island, second-largest Norway’s to the Lofotensrival for spectacular scenery. TROMS each lays claim to be – here comes yetcomes here – be to claim anoth lays each Lutheran Church of Norway’s cathedral, is cathedral, ChurchLutheran of Norway’s churches. wooden largest one of Norway’s the hill Up opening hours are erratic. Its is the town’s Nilsensvei 41; Nilsensvei Nkr70-150;