THANK YOU FOR“ COMING STORY & PHOTOS TO ISRAEL! BY LARRY RICE ”A Wandering, Wondering Jew’s Long-Overdue Journey to Jerusalem

20 ADVENTURE CYCLIST oc tober /nov ember 2016 ver 2,500 years ago, the question. I alerted the attentive and ◌◉◌ Chinese philosopher Lao sympathetic office manager of our Israeli Tzu purportedly said, “Life tour company, instructing her to count us It was mid-morning when Yoni steered is a series of natural and out. However, the evening before being the van into a small parking area atop the spontaneous changes. Don’t discharged from the hospital, although Carmel Range, a bulwark of undulating, Oresist them — that only creates sorrow. she was still weak and sleep deprived, dun-colored hills in northern Israel that Let reality be reality. Let things flow Fran declared that she was well enough extend westward to the Mediterranean naturally forward in whatever way they to accompany the tour in the support Sea. From the rooftop of the nearby like.” van, an option that the outfitter had left Carmelite monastery, Tom and Yoni These wise words still resonate today, open. It was a good thing we were in the informed us that this was the very site which may help explain why, in October Land of Miracles, but now it was time to where the biblical prophet Elijah had his of 2015, I found myself “flowing naturally make our Exodus. showdown with the 450 prophets of Baal forward” to Israel, my first visit to this to determine whose deity was genuinely tiny, often turbulent nation that is the ◌◉◌ in control of the Kingdom of Israel. All homeland of some six million of the of which was thought provoking, but far world’s 14 million Jews. “Thank you for coming to Israel!” were more captivating, at least to me, were the My wife Fran Rulon-Miller and I, plus the first words I heard upon meeting Yoni, stupendous views in all directions. our two regular bike tour companions, one of our two Hebrew- and English- Far below was the , Judy and Pat, had just successfully speaking bicycle tour guides who would where Tom’s kibbutz was located. And to completed a three-week, 900-kilometer be accompanying us for the next 10 days. the north, we were able to identify the cycle trip from Budapest, Hungary, west And it was a genuine, heartfelt greeting, a , a strategically important to Bratislava, Slovakia, then north across show of appreciation expressed practically region for Israel that extends like a finger Slovakia to Krakow, Poland. It had been every day to everyone in our small group between the borders of Lebanon, Jordan, a beautiful and diverse route, so it was of seven. and Syria. And farther still on the horizon, with some apprehension that Fran and I While motoring north of coastal Tel straddling the frontier between Syria bade our friends goodbye in Krakow and Aviv, Israel’s second-largest city and its and Lebanon, was the rounded summit boarded a jet bound for a world apart: economic and cultural center, Fran and I of Mount Hermon, the highest and most Cairo, Egypt. This would be the first visit got acquainted with our fellow trip mates. northern point inside Israel’s borders. to the Middle East for either of us. Fran They hailed from Kentucky, Florida, “For a really unusual Israeli experience, had longed to visit Egypt’s renowned Colorado, and Playa del Carmen, Mexico. you can downhill ski on Mount Hermon archaeological sites since she was a little There was a cardiologist, an electrical during the winter,” Tom said. girl, so before we headed off to Israel engineer, a jewelry artist, a restaurant Wrapping up the history and to join a tour, we would spend a week entrepreneur, and a retired firefighter. geography lessons, we sized up our bikes exploring the Land of the Pharaohs with Ages varied from 55 to 72. Political and set off on our first day of riding in its megalithic pyramids, temples, and partialities ran the gamut from liberal the Holy Land. Following Tom’s lead, we tombs. to Tea Party. As for religious affiliations, raced down the steep, zigzagging slopes “Let reality be reality,” said Lao Tzu. three were Jewish, three were Catholic, of . The already warm And the reality was that Fran was ailing. and one was agnostic. And except for temperature became even warmer as we She had contracted flu-like symptoms Bill, the 60-year-old Florida cardiologist descended. A discrete distance behind with a hacking cough the last few days who had previously traveled to Israel 15 our pack was Yoni in the van, with Fran of our European tour. Surely this would times and had lived on a kibbutz (sort of comfortably settled in the shotgun seat. be a short-lived illness. Not so. On our an Israeli farming commune) when he A keen cyclist and a former Adventure second day in Egypt, a few hours after was a teenager, the rest of us were total Cycling tour leader who has ridden three flying into Luxor, she could barely move. strangers to this strange land. You would times across the U.S., she was delighted Her coughing spasms were frightening. think that throwing together a bunch just to be here after what she had gone We called a doctor. His diagnosis was of disparate, opinionated geezers on a through. However, I knew she was itching unsettling: Fran had an extremely serious vigorous multi-day bike trip would be to ride with us, and, knowing her, I was case of bacterial pneumonia. If left fraught with risk. However, right from the betting that in the coming days she would untreated, it would be life threatening. get-go, we all got along marvelously. be doing just that. Suddenly Fran found herself on IV When it was our guides’ turn to fill in Upon reaching the Jezreel Valley antibiotics in a small, private hospital the blanks, we learned that Yoni, 38, and floor, we pedaled on through the lightly where she would remain for the next five Tom, 33, were both born in Israel, and like traveled Amikam region, known as Israel’s days. most male citizens had served three years Tuscany with its many fine wineries. But It was looking increasingly certain in the Israeli Defense Forces upon reaching there was no time for wine tasting, at least that Israel would have to wait as well. the age of 18. After their military service, not during today’s ride. In our sights was As the hospital stay dragged on, I was they had enrolled in a demanding two-year, Caesarea National Park, still about 30 convinced that traveling to Israel, let multi-faceted Ministry of Tourism course kilometers away. alone bicycling in Israel, was out of the to become licensed tour guides. Originally an ancient Herodian port

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 21 city located on Israel’s Mediterranean survive as a nation,” said Yoni as we passed valley. Nearby was the Sea of , coast about halfway between Tel Aviv sprawling green farm fields, orchards, and also known as Lake Kineret, the largest and Haifa, Caesarea has recently been pastures. “There is no other choice.” body of freshwater in Israel. One of the restored to create one of Israel’s most Because Israel is only about the size earliest settled areas, the fertile plains attractive and fascinating archaeological of New Jersey, it didn’t take us long to get that ring the lake are a biblical treasure sites. Leaving our bikes at the park from one side to the other. One morning trove. Here is found the renowned biblical entrance, we stepped back in time. we were far up in Israel’s northwestern fishermen’s village of Capernaum, the Meandering between the age-old stone corner cycling up a long, scrub-covered Mount of Beatitudes, the Church of the ruins, we could sense how people lived hill to within a stone’s throw of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes, here thousands of years ago. Caesarea’s Lebanon border, and the next morning and many other significant Christian open-air amphitheater, massive Crusader we were wheeling over quiet roads in pilgrimage sites. walls, hippodrome, aqueducts, immense Galilee, a mountainous region to the Every evening after our ride for the stadium, and sophisticated port — all east full of archaeological remnants, day — whether level cycling around the engineering marvels — recall its status green agricultural fields, and drop-dead Sea of Galilee or huffing it up to the as the capital of the Roman province of gorgeous scenery. Mount of Beatitudes, upon which Jesus Judea for about 600 years, and its role in There were easy flat sections to is said to have preached his most famous Jewish and Christian history. traverse as well as a few lung-busting discourse, the Sermon on the Mount — Noting that we were all duly impressed, climbs. But as every cyclist knows, for we would shower and change out of our Tom smiled and proudly said, “This is every ascent there’s a descent, and our sweaty clothes before charging off to just the beginning, guys. One can’t go best thus far came a few hours after a local restaurant. Yoni and Tom, who very far in Israel without touching and biking out of Safed. Here we were met appreciated good cuisine as much as seeing physical manifestations of some of with a long downhill that plastered big anyone else, always knew exactly where the world’s most important biblical and wide smiles on everyone’s faces, including to go. The state of Israel is only 68 years historic sites.” Fran’s. Her vigor was beginning to return old, they told us, but its history is age- Yoni added: “Now I know it’s a very and with it her stubbornness. She no old, and its food represents a melting warm afternoon and you’re all a bit tired. longer was able to sit in the van watching pot of different cultures and gastronomy. Anyone interested in getting some Ben & the rest of us ride. So now, with our group From small mom-and-pop, locals-only Jerry’s kosher ice cream before we head to at full strength, we zoomed down from diners serving delicious fare that exists our hotel?” the giddying heights of upper Galilee to nowhere else on earth, to pricier sit-down the , where a stunning nature restaurants with menus in English, we ◌◉◌ reserve was waiting for us at the finish. were never disappointed. Originally a swamp that was drained Along the way, we sampled a variety The next two days flew by. Tom and in the 1950s to make way for agriculture, of “authentic” Israeli cooking, including Yoni kept us in continual motion: on a large chunk of the Hula Valley was falafel, hummus, shish kebab, baba bicycles following intriguing routes that restored in 1964 to become Israel’s ghanoush (a traditional Middle Eastern only our guides knew; on foot exploring a first nature reserve. Nestled perfectly eggplant spread), and shwarma (a cornucopia of national antiquity parks and between two mountain ranges within the Levantine Arab meat preparation that’s a ageless cities; or just relaxing in the van Syrian-African rift and fed by springs and lot like a gyro). But oddly enough, despite while being schlepped from one area of branches of the , the reserve’s my searching, I never came across a interest to another. vast fields and wetlands are the perfect simple bagel, one of the most Jewish foods As we hopscotched across the northern stopover for as many as 500 million birds in existence (after, maybe, chicken matzo half of Israel, I found myself constantly winging their way across Israel’s skies ball soup). As it turns out, bagels aren’t amazed by this tiny nation’s geographical twice a year during the transcontinental common in Israel, reinforcing the notion diversity. Positioned at the meeting point migration seasons. Now, in the autumn, that not all that’s Israeli is Jewish and not of Europe, Africa, and Asia, Israel is the migration was in full swing. Following all that’s Jewish is Israeli, leaving me more endowed with an astounding spectrum of the miles of winding, paved bike trails in confused than ever about this dynamic, landscapes, from fertile valleys to pine- and around the nature reserve, we stopped cross-fertilized nation-state. covered hills, wave-lapped Mediterranean often to watch in awe as tens of thousands beaches to fierce sunset-colored deserts, of cranes, storks, pelicans, egrets, and ◌◉◌ and snow-capped mountains to the lowest other birds foraged at the water’s edge point on earth, the Dead Sea. or flew in long, quivering lines overhead. Our schedule continued to be fast- Equally remarkable is how the Listening to the deafening calls of so many paced and fun. Try as they might, our resourceful Israelis have managed in individual birds added to the amazing much younger guides couldn’t slow us many places to turn what was once bare atmosphere of sight and sound. old-timers down. Until, that is, we tackled sand and rock into bountiful breadbaskets, That night, like the two to follow, found an exhilarating and exhausting metric so much so that Israel produces 93 us comfortably ensconced at Kibbutz century from the top of the Golan Heights, percent of its own food requirements. Degania Bet, located some 200 meters where we were offered commanding views “We have to be self-sufficient if we are to below sea level in the Jordan River of upper Galilee, the Hula Valley, and into

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AFR IC Top: In biblical Israel, the gentle sloping Judean Hills were a hotbed of winemaking. A Established in 2000, the Agur Winery currently produces around 30,000 bottles annually. Middle right: Bordering Israel, Lebanon, and Jordan, the Golan Heights is a rugged area Jerusalem overlooking the upper Jordan River Valley. Bottom right: Named for a local family of Dead 0 20 km philanthropists, the nearly mile-long Jerusalem-Sherover promenade offers breathtaking Sea 0 20 mi views over the Old City, the Temple Mount, and Al-Aqsa Mosque. MAP: JAMIE ROBERTSON JAMIE MAP: Syria, climaxing with a hairpin screamer exposed as I was to such a munificence You’ll experience Jerusalem, my home down to the Jordanian border on the Sea of churches, cathedrals, and Catholicism, city, in a totally new, unforgettable way.” of Galilee. When we finally rolled into that I began to slowly long for my own But phantom night riding was still the kibbutz, everyone needed to instantly dormant Jewish heritage. In a roundabout a ways off. Now, under blue skies and a decompress, which meant a cold shower fashion, this led me to seek out yet rising, hot sun, we mounted our trusty and an even colder beer. But what I another, more personal pilgrimage by steeds and took off from the flanks of needed most right then was some quiet bicycle — to the Land of the Israelites and Mount Gilboa, overlooking the Jezreel time, time to reflect. to the Old City of Jerusalem. Valley and the Jordan River. Our hearty In a peaceful, shaded courtyard, where So here I was, four years after my group, including a much improved the only sounds came from soft cooing dear 88-year-old mom was put to rest, Fran, climbed up quiet, scenic lanes that doves in the tree branches overhead, I happily acceding to the tug to reconnect afforded us views of the whole of Galilee. sank back into a bench and slipped into with my ancestral roots. She would have Then it was a swift descent to the valley blissful meditative relaxation. I’m not been amused, and so delighted, to know below, where we were funneled to the sure why, but my mind started drifting that I had finally heeded her call to visit Jordan River and Gan Hashlosha National all the way back to my childhood and the Israel, and that I was doing it my way ... by Park, undoubtedly one of the most circuitous chain of events that had finally bicycle. beautiful places in lower Galilee, if not all brought me, a wandering, wondering Jew, of Israel. to this ancient land shaped by prophets, ◌◉◌ Tom told us that some believe this oasis kings, and crusaders. of large, spring-fed pools shaded by lush For countless years, my mom would It was our last morning in the north palm trees is the real-world location of the nag me (in a fashion that only a doting of Israel. After today’s ride, we would be Garden of Eden, and we could understand Jewish mother could) to get my tuches changing locales, heading south for a why. Attired in bike shorts, we plunged (Yiddish for “rear”) to Israel. “You travel day of pedaling in the peaceful, off-the- right into the crystal-clear, 83-degree all over the world,” she would chide me. beaten-track Judean Hills, about an hour’s water, everyone agreeing that life doesn’t “Are you telling me that you can’t find the drive southwest of Jerusalem, then finally get any better than this for weary road time to visit Israel, the Jewish homeland? to Jerusalem itself, Israel’s capital and warriors. It would make your mother so happy if largest city. you did!” Jerusalem! We were all excited to be ◌◉◌ But following my bar mitzvah at age 13, near this hilly, mythical city where the my connection with Judaism languished first century rubs shoulders with the 21st What a contrast it was when we into near obscurity. Paying a visit to Israel century, even more so knowing that we arrived, after our tour of the Judean held absolutely no interest for me. That would be cycling through side streets, Hills the next day, to the Old City of is, until the fall of 2014 when Fran and short cuts, and alleys known by few, Jerusalem, the most contested city on I cycled the length of one of the oldest, other than our expert guides. Especially earth and also one of the most beautiful, longest, and most important Christian intriguing would be our Jerusalem night where every stone has a story, every olive pilgrimage routes in the world: the famous ride on mountain bikes, within the walls of tree a history, and every hill a different Camino de Santiago. Also known as the the Old City, a UNESCO World Heritage name, depending on whom you ask. I Way of St. James, it traverses more than Site that is home to a staggering array don’t know about the others, but for me 800 kilometers from Saint-Jean-Pied- of divine sites for Jews, Christians, and this was the Holy Grail at trail’s end. de-Port on the French Basque side of the Muslims, each jostling for legitimacy and On a bright, sunlit morning, we left Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela in far space. “Under the cloak of darkness,” Yoni our centrally located four-star hotel northwestern Spain. told us with his usual dramatic flair, “we’ll and pedaled through the Jaffa Gate, a It was during that incredible journey, fly through the narrow, empty streets. stone portal in the historic walls of the

24 ADVENTURE CYCLIST oc tober /nov ember 2016 Old City, where we suddenly entered NUTS & BOLTS Israel a world steeped in more than 3,000 years of history. Despite its obvious CYCLING DETAILS guages of the State of Israel: divisions and powder-keg politics, the A bicycle is the perfect mode Hebrew (which is spoken by city’s colorful markets, famous holy of transportation for visiting the majority of the population) sites, crowded streets, and twisty, stone- sites of profound historical and Arabic. Both of these will flagged alleyways bustled with a wide and religious significance, as be seen on most road signs, range of people — religious and secular, well as vibrant cities such as along with English in more Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. The frequented areas. families and singles, old and young, Jews, scope and variety of cycling Muslims, Christians, and Armenians — routes, especially for such a PRACTICAL MATTERS each holding this wonderfully diverse small country (only about 290 Israel grants free on-arrival eternal city sacrosanct and calling it their miles in length and 85 miles visas to most nationalities. home. across at its widest point) is The currency in Israel is the Following Yoni through a labyrinth remarkable. In the course of New Israeli Shekel (NIS). a week or two you will likely Credit cards (especially of passageways, we eventually reached ly June and late September, be cycling among mountains, Visa and MasterCard) are the iconic Western Wall (or Wailing October, and November. For hills, valleys, canyons, deserts, widely accepted, and ATMs are Wall), part of the remaining structure the Negev Desert to the south, oasis-like springs, national ubiquitous. The “weekend” in from the glorious and elaborate Temple a vast and sparsely populated parks, nature reserves, and Israel is Friday and Saturday; Mount from the time of the Second region that accounts for over coastlines along the Mediter- Sunday is a regular working Jewish Temple, destroyed by the Romans half of Israel’s land area, the ranean Sea, Dead Sea, and the day. By around 2:00 pm on best — the only — time to cycle over 2,000 years ago. The wall is still fabled Sea of Galilee. Fridays, many services and tour is November to February, the holiest site in Judaism, a place of businesses will close when though there can be spells of pilgrimage, tears, and kisses. WHEN TO GO most of Israel’s Jewish popula- heavy rain and flash floods. I left my bike in Yoni’s care and set Israel is a subtropical region tion gets ready for Shabbat off across this great open-air synagogue located about 30 degrees (the Sabbath), which starts at BICYCLE TOUR OPERATORS north of the equator with a sundown on Friday and lasts to find a tranquil corner to pause and Though cycling in general has climate midway between until one hour after sundown ponder, to quietly commemorate the become a very popular activity Mediterranean and desert. on Saturday. Getting around conclusion of my own long-delayed in Israel, touring by bicycle Summers can be hot and Israel is easy on buses and pilgrimage to this sacred place — a is still in its infancy. Then I humid, peaking in July and trains. You might also consider journey of faith, purpose, and discovery. found Gordon Active Bike August at around 90 degrees renting a car. After our bike Pressing myself against the towering Tours (gordonactive.com), Fahrenheit (and much hotter tour, Fran and I did just that a Tel Aviv–based outfitter, wall, I closed my eyes and opened my in the south), but tempered on to explore the remote Negev and I immediately knew I had mind. And only then could I hear my the coast by westerly winds Desert on our own for a week. struck gold. Their offerings mother’s voice whisper in my ear, “You’ve from the Mediterranean Sea. It’s a great way to tour the include multi-day guided and made me proud, son, so very proud. Winters (December–February) countryside, but driving and self-guided trips, day tours, Thank you for coming to Israel!” are typically chilly or down- parking can be a pain in Tel city tours (I highly recommend right cold in the north, with Aviv and Jerusalem. their guided, half-day Tel Aviv Larry Rice is an avid cyclist, canoeist, and backpacker snow a fairly common sight on bike tour), and both road and from Buena Vista, Colorado, with some 450 magazine the northernmost part of the FOR MORE INFORMATION mountain bike rentals. articles to his credit. His last article to appear in Golan Heights. All in all, the goisrael.com, Israel’s official Adventure Cyclist was “Off the Beaten Path in Spain.” best months to cycle in Israel’s North American tourism LANGUAGE northern half are March to ear- website. There are two official lan-

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