CENTRAL 229 ) ) Peninsula Ancient © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Tria Potamia Klisova Lagoon AREA : 37,042 SQ KM 37,042 SQ KM : AREA „ ) Ελλάδα

) ) region Standing where 300 Spartans bravely defended Thermopylae ( p246 ( Thermopylae 300 Spartans defended Standing where bravely Seeking a sunrise at Climbing the Tower of Climbing the Tower of White-water river rafting in rafting in river White-water Following the cobblestone Following the cobblestone Dancing in the bouzouki clubs in the Spotting great cormorant and egret seabirds diving into Klisova Lagoon ( p242 Lagoon ( seabirds diving into Klisova cormorant and egret Spotting great ) village trails of the Pelion Peninsula ( p254 ( Peninsula village trails of the Pelion old Palaia district of Volos ( p253 district of Volos ( old Palaia the Tria Potamia ( p264 the Tria Potamia ( the Holy Ghost rock pinnacle at Meteora the Holy Ghost rock pinnacle at Meteora ( p267 the Sanctuary of ( p234 ) Delphi in Ancient Walking Haven Walking Haven Don’t Look Down Moment Meditative Op Photo Experience Historical Live Music Music Live Go with the flow

„ „ „ „ „ „ „ POPULATION: 1.9 MILLION 1.9 MILLION POPULATION: HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS To the east lies the Pelion Peninsula, crisscrossed with old cobblestone donkey crisscrossed paths that Peninsula, To the east lies the Pelion modern-day hik- invite Overlooking slopes of Mt Parnassos the Gulf of Corinth, the steep „ It’s no coincidence that the rugged terrain of was the setting for heroic strug- the setting for heroic was of central Greece terrain that the rugged It’s no coincidence glimpses of the essential provide mortals.gles among the gods and Journeys to this region and unforgettable plenty of outdoor adventures people, along with Greek of the character sought the advice of the famous ruins at Delphi, where The landscapes. also the are and sites most inspiring archaeological one of Greece’s of Delphi, remain is home of starting northern The for hikes point region that follow ancient footpaths. dating from the 14th century. The with buildings pinnacles of Meteora, to the monastery-topped Orthodox but also home pilgrims, a mecca for Greek not only spectacular of rock are columns peaks and towers to choose from. 100 sandstone with over to world-class rock climbing, Sandy beaches rival the fishing villages. and with seaside coves link lush mountain hamlets it was mythology, to Greek According the crowds. islands, but without best of the Aegean set sail in search of the Golden Fleece, in a in nearby Volos that Jason and the Argonauts forests. boat made from timbers of the Pelion opportunities ancient walking River-rafting in the South abound ers to retrace trails. To the south, summer hikes. perfect for breezy ranges, and the high alpine meadows are of Osios Loukas, Byzantine frescoes the the most famous in Greece. are to , nearer from the Corinthian sanctuaries stretch And to the southwest, natural wetlands and wildlife Gulf west to the . C e n t r aΚεντρική l G r e e c e CENTRAL GREECE tkn prisoner. taken in thebloody battle. Another30,000 were the temples, butnot6000Thebans whodied trol andsidingwith Persia. Alexanderspared Great forrebelling againstMacedonian con- whenitwassacked byAlexanderthe BC, Thiva’s gloriousrunendedabruptly in335 rious inbattleagainstonce-invincible . thecitywasvicto- region. In371BC Thivabecamethedominantcity of the BC, ). right (see viewed withintheArchaeological Museum of thatcanbe itspastglory,exceptthose enae. Present-day Thivahasfew vestiges of rivalled thatof Oedipus, ancientMyc- of itsroyaldynasty,centred onthe myth Greece andthePeloponnese. Thetragicfate ing astrategic northern positionbetween duringGreece’s goldenage, occupy- BC onysos, wasapowerfulcity-state in400 Thiva, thebirthplaceof Hercules andDi- pop 22,100 alike. and explored byhikers andriver rafters are mountains same prizedfortheirbeauty, Today,these asuncollectable. purposes villagesmountain were written offfortax ish occupation,whenthehard-to-reach ‘unrecorded’, sonamedduringtheTurk- ous region isknownasthe‘’ or and Epirostothenorth.Thismountain- gulfs of CorinthandPatra inthesouth, formed Greek state. land Greece) in1827,aspartof thenewly gion acquired thenameSterea Ellada(Main- Greek Warof Independence. In fact,there- bard LordByrondiedof fever duringthe fate, andwesttoMessolongi, where British tica, where legendary methis KingOedipus Delphi,thelandsstretchBeyond easttoAt- ancient asthecentre of theworld. Gulf of Corinth,sitsDelphi,regarded bythe the slopesof MtParnassos, overlooking the gle intherugged andsceniclandscape. On thology andhistoryof tomin- Greece seem Wherever yougoin Sterea Ellada,themy- ΣΤΕΡΕΑ 230

SEE ELLADA STEREA TIA (THEBES) THIVA Sterea Elladaisbordered bythenarrow After theTrojan Warinthe12thcentury TRAELD • Tia(hbs ELLADA STEREA ••Thiva(Thebes) Θ

H ΕΛΛΑΔΑ ΒΑ part forAthens(normal/express €3.50/9.20, Mycenaean palaces,alongwithterracotta ear Bscriptandjewelleryfoundinthe daily) fromThiva’scentral hourly) andLivadia(€3.90,45minutes, five operate toAthens(€7,1½hours,Buses Getting There&Away on thesquare. the oldGreek way’atthiswelcomingeatery mincedlamb)made‘in roni andseasoned and sauce, his oven-ready dishes such aslambinlemon boastsofFriendly ownerandhostKypriotakis breakfast,buffet free wi-fi andsatellite TV. adjacent tothe red-and-black signatthewell-managed Niovi, nonda 63;s/dinclbreakfast €38/43; Niovi Hotel Eating & Sleeping Greece. mainland uniqueto masks anddecorated sarcophagi, and notscheduled toreopen until 2009. forrenovations isclosed themuseum ever, place inGreek historyandmythology.How- admission €2; pressive In keeping withitshistory,Thivahasanim- Museum Archaeological national highway, withaturn-off thattakesnational highway, Athens to Delphi,thebest wayisviathe Greece. fortress wallsinall with thebest-preserved leadsto4th-century-BC Germeno Persian Wars. Aroadbranching off toPorto tookplace,markingtheend of the (479 BC) ruins nearErythres, where the canalsoinspectthe shepherd. Historybuffs ancient Atticabefore beingrescued bya borderingleft toperish onthismountain According tomythology,baby was Oedipus AthensandThiva. between Kythairon, stands Eleftherae 4th-century The well-preserved AROUND THIVA four daily). (normal/express €12.60/32.50,four/5½hours, 75/60 minutes, 10daily),andThessaloniki 27512) Trains from If youwanttotravel here enroute from Dionysos Restaurant ofThe collectionincludestablets Lin- , 500mnorthof thecentral Archaeological Museum Archaeological , guardingtheKaza Pass over Mt

h ( % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 8am-2.30pm Tue-Sat) 22620 29888;www.hotelniovi.gr;Epami- Thiva station Thiva plateia (layers of buttery maca- (

% (square). include Rates 22620 24445;mains€4-7.50) ai

( bus station % documenting its

( 22620 27531) Battle ofPlataea % Lookforthe ) plateia 22620 27913; Fortress of Fortress ( %

. 22620 de-

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lonelyplanet.com 0 50 km STEREA ELLADA 0 30 miles To To (20km); To Larisa (20km); (18km) Kalambaka (53km) (175km) Volos Pelion Peninsula EPIROS Lake To Parga Arahthos Pagasitikos Peristera (63km) THESSALY Gulf Arta ELLADA STEREA Skantzoura E951 E75 Mt Mt Velouhi Mt Orthys (2315m) (2312) E65 (1726m) Preveza Ambracian See Thessaly Map (p248) Makri Glyfa Gulf A E G E A N Aktion E952 Lake Fidakia To Vonitsa Tymfristos Loutra Loutra Edipsou S E A Koryshades Ipatis Maliakos Gulf (14km) Amfilohia Mt Tymfristos Ipati Mikro Horio Megalo Horio Paleros Tunnel Mt Iti ETOLO- Gavros ὈὈKrikello Iti (2114m) Lake AKARNANIA Thermopylae Kamena Arkitsa E55 Mt National Vourla Agios Meganisi Amvrakia Moni Kaliakouda Park Konstantinos Mytikas (2098m) Theologos Panagias Pavliani Amfiklia Kymi Kalamos Proussiotissas Parnassos Lefkada E65 Ano Hora National Park Gulf of Kifissos Evia Evia Lake Thermo Mt Parnassos Astakos Trihonida Lake Mornos Amfissa (2457m) Orhomenos Kastos Aheloös Ancient Arahova E75 Atokos Davlia Kastro Halkida E65 Delphi Delphi Ithaki Etoliko Monastiraki Itea Kira Distomo Nafpaktos Ὀ Livadia Agios Vathy Nikolaos Messolongi Trizonia Gulf of Galaxidi Skala Evia Piso Lagoon Andirio Thiva Aetos Klisova Moni Osios (Thebes) Oropou Rio-Andirio Plataea Oxia Rio Egio Loukas E962 Sami Bridge Fortress of Erythres Mt Parnitha Nea Kefallonia E55 (1413m) Agia Styra Gulf of Patra Gulf of Corinth Aigosthena Fortress of Patra EleftheraeE95 Marina Poros I O N I A N Alkionides E65 Gulf Porto S E A Xylokastro Germeno Elefsina (Eleusis) Ὀ Rafina Marmari Kiato Kalavryta Megara ATHENS Loutraki Piraeus Salamina Flisvos E65 Corinth Kechries Bay Petalia Zakynthos Kyllini Salamina Gulf Kechries Vouliagmeni Amaliada Zakynthos Aegina To the Town Town Lavrio Cyclades Saronic (20km) Angistri Gulf Sounion

Aegina 231 Cape To the Korissia

Pyrgos To Kalamata To Kalamata Argos To Sounion

Cyclades Kea (116km) (100km) (200km) (10km) CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE the overlook theriver. For atouch of history, Osiou Louka;€2.20, 35 minutes). (€5.40, 70 minutes) andDistomo(for Moni (€3.60, 40minutes, nine daily),Amfissa ( is thestation tion ( Patisia Kato Terminal B hourly). FromAthens,take thebusfrom Livadia andAthens(€10.60,two hours, There are frequent travelling buses between Getting There&Away directly over the springs. 29729; snacks€2-4) pork. Nearby,thepopular kleftiko the restaurant. Kitchen favourites include mill, withasmallstream runningthrough ner) try the central Plateia Kotsoni. ioned, cleanandfriendly.Thehotel faces isreliablyto linger, old-fash- theLevadia s/d/tr inclbreakfast €60/75/95; Levadia Hotel Eating & Sleeping 1km walkfromthe town square café-bar where theRiver Erkynasbegins,a still bubblingaway,oneithersideof asmart Mnemosyne (Memory). Bothspringsare getfulness) of andthenfromtheFountain first of (For- drinkfromtheFountain Lethe advicewerePilgrims seeking required to mythology withtheoracleof Trophonios. stopover ontheroad status to Delphi. (cold) tle overlooks thetown,andshadedKryes Erkynas flows.A14th-centuryFrankishcas- sides of agorge which through theRiver northwest of Thiva. Thetownflanksboth Livadia isontheAthens–Delphi road,45km pop 20,600 LIVADIA 2km westof Elefsina (Eleusis). of road,which awindingmountain begins history, youcanalsoreach Thivabymeans with your owntransportandayenfor ever, ThivaandLivadia.you westthrough How- 232 Livadia’s twospringsare associated in Several attractive cafésandrestaurantsSeveral , set inarestored, set 19th-centuryflour Neromylos plateia TRAELD • Lvda ELLADA STEREA ••Livadia % (slow-oven-baked lamb)andgrilled springs springs ). InLivadia,theAthens-bound sta- 22610 28272)isontheeastsideof (off Map (off Map p100 ΛΙΒΑΔΕΙ . Onthesouthside of the

( ( % % sportsapianobarandsits grant Livadiaworthwhile- % 22610 23611; www.levadiahotel.gr; 22610 23611;www.levadiahotel.gr; 22610 26928;mains€4-10; 22610 28336)for Delphi ; % A a 21083 17173;Liosion260, ) Should youneed Cafe Xenia Xenia Cafe (plateia) ( % plateia h 22610 din- .

on aprecipitous edge and, isspectacular cliff eyrie village atouristattraction.Itslocation ofthought agood reason tomake thiseagle’s ary of Apollohere, wouldhave someoneelse their navel of theearthandbuiltSanctu- If theancientGreeks hadn’tchosen Delphi as pop 2800 DELPHI dia’s main andLiva- station theout-of-the-way tween more popularoption,given the6kmgapbe- €4.10/8.10, 95/75minutes), thebusisamuch ling to/fromAthensdaily(normal/express the portof andthentook controlof Krisa, the inwhich theleaguedestroyed (595–586 BC), putes over DelphiledtotheFirst Sacred War Thefirstto Krisa. of territorial dis- several states, thesurrounding territory belonged afederation ofAmphictyonic League, Greek theboxed(see text on p235 tospeakforApollo oracle, whowasbelieved tudes of pilgrimscametoaskadviceof its when multi- the 6thand4thcenturiesBC, Delphi’s renown reached between itsheight sites. tourist forexploringoneofthe base Greece’s major Delphi is178kmnorthwestof Athensandis ern village, itstillhasaspecialfeel. Modern themod- passage of through stant tourbuses despite itsovert commercialismandthecon- History Although DelphiwasprotectedAlthough bythe thereAlthough are 10trainstravel- haps visible Look downandtotherightglimpse another 1.5kmtothecarpark(P)onright. 1km onforasigntoDavlia. Proceeduphill look firstfortheroadsigntoDistomo,and (heading westfromLivadiatowardsDelphi), marry hismother. would unknowinglymurderhisfatherand ful Delphicoracle’stragic prophecythathe Laius,thusfulfillingthepower-father, King was where proudOedipusencountered his playwright . This fateful junction roads meet’,asdescribedbytheancient A traveller canstillseethespot‘where three CROSSROADS OEDIPUS THE To find the actual OedipuscrossroadsTo findtheactual the narrowmeetingofroadsandfate. ΔΕΛΦΟ traces ofanancientcrossing,per- plateia Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com . I ). toward theArahova endof Vasileon Pavlou potent ‘spiritof place’.Builtontheslopesof andEgypt, and Hadrian. numerous benefactors, includingthekingsof mous state thatenjoyedgreat prosperityfrom sacred makingDelphianautono- sanctuary, lonelyplanet.com crowds and the heat. summer, trytovisitthesite earlytoavoid the posite endsof theworldand theymethere. In released twoeagles atop- to mythology,Zeus Delphi asthecentre of the world;according inspiring ruins.TheancientGreeks regarded allure andits liesbothinitsstunningsetting olive trees, thisWorldHeritage–listed site’s and extending intoavalleyof cypress and Mt Parnassos, overlooking theGulfof Corinth Delphi Of all thearchaeological sites inGreece, DELPHI ANCIENT 32;perhr Pavlou &Friderikis €4; hr €3.50; Café Delphiko Internet & Friderikis.There are internet facilitiesat ist office along thepine-shaded mainroad to Arahova. andsite)the Archaeological is500m Museum also onthisstreet. AncientDelphi(comprising Tilepikinonion Ellados(OTE) andbanksare Itea sideof town.Thepostoffice, & FriderikisnexttoTaverna Gargaduas onthe roads. transverseFour steep stairways all three runs southandparalleltothemaindrag. Pavlou &Friderikis,andFilellinon,which runs northof andparalleltoVasileon roadsareother through Apollonos,which on Vasileon Pavlou &Friderikis.Delphi’s inDelphiis you’llneed Almost everything late 4th century AD. the ChristianemperorTheodosiusin alonguntilitwasabolishedbystruggled and politicaltopersonal. Thesanctuary dwindle forissues rangingfromreligious AD, whentheoracle’sinfluencebeganto at Delphialive, wellintothe2ndcentury fascinated by itsreputation, kept therituals dered Butotheremperors, thesanctuary. theRomanSullaplun- mans, andin86BC, Sights Information & Orientation Delphiwastaken bytheRo- In 191BC, You’ll findinformationatthe The small bus station isonVasileonThe smallbusstation Pavlou

(www.culture.gr) h

( % 6.30am-2am) 22650 82900; STEREA ELLADA STEREA ••Delphi istheonewithmost (Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis 54;per Pavlou &Friderikis (Vasileon and h h Parnassos Café 7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri) 7.30am-midnight)

Municipal tour- Municipal Organismos Organismos

(Vasileon (Vasileon Ancient . ,

your right leadtothe your right winds graduallyuptothefoundationsof by thePergamenon kingsinthe1stcentury pens to be the best-preserved inallof Greece.pens tobe thebest-preserved the pathcontinues tothe fouryears.Games, every Fromthetheatre the PythianFestival, held,like theOlympic top row.Playswere performed here during yieldingmagnificentviewsfrom the BC, 4th-century-BC and ‘Nothing in Excess’. Greek philosophers, such as‘KnowThyself’ On thetemple vestibule were inscriptionsof and ahearthwhere aneternal flameburned. ofary witha(possibly)goldstatue ple of Apollodominated theentire sanctu- the Athenian treasury are thefoundationsof Apollo. Tothenorthof thereconstructed Sikyon, AthensandKnidos–inthanksto –Thiva(Thebes),Siphnos,ful city-states with treasuries given andstatues bygrate- Monument Argos). wasthe Ontheright Way were erected bytheArgives (peopleof cular structures oneithersideof the Sacred rating abattlevictory.Thenexttwosemicir- the arebeyond it,ontheright, theremains of icated by thecityof (Kerkyra). Just which heldthe pedestal Thefirst stonebases. isthe you passseveral the Doric work of the ofto theright theentrance,noticebrick- main roadasyouwalktowardsArahova. Just The Sanctuary of Apolloisontheleftof the Apollo of Sanctuary Above thetemple isthewell-preserved The remains Tem- of the4th-century-BC In ancienttimestheSacred Waywaslined From themainentrance,steps on Greek archaeological finds. with starting affair withallthingsbroken, pher Woodwardchroniclesthehumanlove andLiteratureHistory, Art, thology Newman’s tal) oftheancientGreek gods,read Harold plex relationships (maritalandextramari- rundownonthecom- For anentertaining ON READ bouleuterion ofLacedaemon Offering Votive (2003). . Temple ofApollo Roman A Genealogical ofGreek My- Chart (council house). In Ruins:AJourneyThrough theatre theatre , hc ws restored was which , . statue (2003)byChristo- stadium Sacred . Entering the site, of abullded- Kings of Argos ofArgos Kings , commemo- , which hap- , which

233 CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE are new material.) are theoriginalmarble;darker portions the 1940s.(Thewhite portionsof each column dium –three of itscolumnswere re-erected in 20columnsonathree-steppedcomprised po- monuments. Thisgracefulcircularstructure tholos ary of Athena,thesite of the4th-century-BC SpringistheSanctu- Opposite theCastalian Athena of Sanctuary ruins. the fed circular art andthencooledoff inthelarge, spring- terrace, boxers andwrestlers their practised occupied anupperterrace here; onalower an ancient tuary of Athena,youwillfindtheremains of before consultingtheoracle. the left,where themselves pilgrimscleansed main roadandleadstothe path towardsArahova runsparalleltothe blocks. Check outthesprinters’ etched-stone starting 234 (500m) To Delphi 1 3 2 ANCIENT DELPHI&SANCTUARYOFAPOLLO Between the Castilian SpringandtheSanc- theCastilian Between From theSanctuaryof Apollo, thepaved Ruins of Wall TRAELD • Dlh ELLADA STEREA ••Delphi (rotunda),themoststrikingof Delphi’s 12 Sikyon Treasury...... Roman Agora...... Main Entrance...... Knidos Treasury...... Kings ofArgosMonument...... Gymnasium...... Castalian Spring...... Bouleuterion (CouncilHouse)...... Athenian Treasury...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES uem...... A2 Museum...... AC gymnasium pool , which isstillvisibleamong 8 17 . Tworunningtracks Sanctuary of Apollo Castalian Spring Castalian 15 18 10 11 1 2 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B2 C2 C2 B2 B2 C2 C2 B2 B2 Sacred Way B 6 10 tteo ulo ekr...... C2 Statue ofBullKerkyra...... Lacedaemon...... Votive Offeringof Tholos...... Thiva Treasury...... Theatre...... Temple ofAthena...... Temple ofApollo...... Stoa ofAttalos...... Stadium...... Siphnos Treasury...... 14 5 on 20 13 .gr/war/index_en.jsp; adultsiteormuseum€6,adult/student .gr/war/index_en.jsp; 7 miss the tall miss thetall ofBattle theAmazons.Furtheronyoucan’t Hercules, of andthe theExploits Athenian treasury of depictingtheLabours metopes Argos’. of examples of 6th-century-BC InRoom4are twofine dating from560BC. ing inthisroomisthe Aphrodite).beautiful (hechose Alsoresid- upon todecidewhich goddesswasmost also theJudgmentof Paris, whowascalled thegodsandgiants,but battle between Siphnian treasury, which depictsnotonlythe you’ll first noticepartsof the Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Mar) site7.30am-7.30pmApr- Sat, Sun&publicholidaysNov-Mar; 8.30am-3pm 8.30am-6.45pmMon-Fri, 7.30pm dailyApr-Oct, site &museum€9/€5,free SunNov-Mar; magnificent able treasure trove, andthisisreflected inits Ancient Delphimanaged toamassaconsider- Museum Delphi Upon entering the museum, inRoom3Upon entering themuseum, In theroomstoleftare fragmentsof 9 (figures withinthefrieze)from Papadia 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11

Ravine museum Acanthus ColumnofDancers Circular B2 D3 B2 A1 D3 B2 B1 A1 B2

Pool Extent . 4 3

( of Ancient Town Ancient of % of Athena Sanctuary Mt Parnassos 50m 0 (2457m) 22650 82312;www.culture Sphinx oftheNaxians Steps 16 lonelyplanet.com kouroi h frieze frieze To Arahova(12km); D 19 museum 7.30am- Athens (178km) , the‘twins from the , with , Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com excellent budget choice, theSibyllahas very 9;s/d/trfrom €20/26/35) Vasileon Pavlou &Friderikis Sibylla Hotel BUDGET holidays. toOctober) andonpublicand September (ApriltoMayring aheadinpeakseason toquality inDelphi,butit’sadvisable Accommodation isplentifuland high Sleeping Italian. and 22550 82722) and Greek guide by Dutch guide English-language tours of Delphiare offered Tours tre fordramaand the arts. together Delphi as amoderncen- established and hisAmerican-born wife Eva Palmer, who dedicated Angelos toGreek Sikelianos poet overlooking is Delphi.Thesmallmuseum sion €1; timate Fans of Greek dramashould headtothein- MUSEUM SIKELIANOS or 474 BC. rates avictoryinthePythianGamesof 478 life-size the world.Inendroomiscelebrated stood atwhatwasconsidered thecentre of to itisthe three womendancingarounditstop.Next able’. Hequicklydroppedher,saying‘Ihave myanswer’. he draggedherbythehairoutofchamberuntilshescreamed, ‘Let goofme;you’re unbeat- ancient world,theoraclerefused direct thathereturn comment,instead later. asking Enraged, When Alexander theGreat visited, hopingtohearaprophecythathewouldsoonconquerthe visions. were fought,marriageswere sealedandjourneysbegunonthestrength oftheoracle’s reputation forinfallibilitymayhave rested withtheoften ambiguousorcrypticanswers. Wars Her inspired, ifalittlevague,answerswere translated intoverse theoracle’s byapriest.Infact, years ofage. porarily vacant.Henceitbecamecustomaryfortheappointed seer()tobeatleast50 pilgrims,leavingtheposttem- young womenwhoregularly ranoffwiththeiradvice-seeking that emitted intoxicating vapours. Apopularstoryproposesthattheearliestoracleswere The inGreece, satonatripodattheentrancetochasmDelphic oracle,themost powerful ORACLE DELPHIC THE Legend holdsthatoneoraclesuffered forhervagueness,whethervapour-induced ornot. When shewasconsulted fordivineadvice,thepriestess inhaledthefumesandentered atrance. h Sikelianos Museum Sikelianos Bronze Charioteer Bronze 9am-3pm Thu-Mon) whoalsospeaksJapanese, French omphalos

( % 22650 82335;www.sibylla-hotel.gr; Anna Kourtidou Georgia Hasioti Georgia , asculpted conethatonce inanoldmansion

, which commemo- ( % 22650 82175;admis- ( % ( % STEREA ELLADA STEREA ••Delphi 6936619668) 6944943511, An , .gr; Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis 48;s/d/tr/q inclbreakfast.gr; Vasileon Pavlou &Friderikis a 58;s/d/tr€35/45/60; .com.gr; Vasileon Pavlou &Friderikis o Corinth. of and market, alongwithviews over theGulf lent campingchoice, with itsowntaverna along theDelphi–Itea road, isanotherexcel- per person/tent€6/4; ( minimarket andbarbecue. first-rate facilitiesincludingarestaurant, ground, 2kmwestof modernDelphi,boasts ps 82762; fax2265082888;campsitesperperson/tent €7.50/4; grounds nearby. Delphiandtwoexcellentcamping between on the veranda. room artwork,andforarrangingbreakfast welcoming Asimina, whogets credit forthe terrace with viewsto the gulf. budget onthe choice. Breakfast isserved isatop kling roomsandexcellentservice, €35/45/65/70; which ithappens to be! family owners treat itlike theirownhome, rooms offer great value,andthefriendly ning locationinupperDelphi.Itssparkling This excellentsmallhotel commandsastun- s/t inclbreakfast €30/50,dinclbreakfast €35-45; Gulf of Corinth. withviewstothe all withfansandseveral alongwithsimple, cleanrooms, helpful staff, % An hourlyshuttlebus(ticket €1)runs Kouros Hotel Rooms Pitho Sunview Hotel ) ThecosyKourosismanaged bythe 22650 82209;www.delphicamping.com; campsites ) , which isDelphi’snearest camping a

) Thishotel, ( (

% % ( ps % Apollon Camping 22650 82850;www.pithorooms 22650 82473;www.kouroshotel /fax 2265082349;Apollonos84; ) , 4.5kmfromDelphi

with eight spar-with eight Delphi Camping Delphi Camping

( % ap 22650 235

) CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE of the gulf. rooms andbalconies,manywithgreat views quieter FilellinonSt,withlarge comfortable modern andwell-appointed Acropoleison from the bus station toreachfrom thebusstation the hotel. places, aspaandpoolbar. Walk100muphill foryears,upscale standby within-roomfire- This newhotel isfriendly,smartlydeco- -varonos.gr; 25;s/d/tr/steincl Vasileon Pavlou &Friderikis -delphi.gr; s/d/trinclbreakfast €45/60/75; mds €9.50. modest of meatonskewers), andfruitfora salad into acomboof (cubes pasta, lamb ( speciality isslow-roastedwell. Thehouse vourite forgrilledmeatsandgoodvalueas mains€4-7) Pavlou &Friderikis; listed here are worthy exceptions. crowded restaurants for so-sofood.Theplaces inDelphi canfindyouwaitingin Eating Eating aspi €100/200,dinclbreakfast €120-140; .gr; s/steinclbreafkast balcony views. sea are modernwithdark-woodfurnishings, and Appolonia hasanintimate feel toit.Rooms Unlike manylarger hotels, high-end theswank .gr; s/d/tr/steinclbreakfast €80/120/160/220; Appolonia Hotel END TOP Filellinon 13;s/d/trinclbreakfast €56/72/90; with room to spare. spotless, andasuitefourtosixpeople sleeps out thehomeytheme. Roomsare large and and antiques,alongwithpinkwallstoround the charming Varonos isfilledwithgreenery breakfast €42/62/70/120; balcony views. tasteful wood-trimmedrooms,most with Hermes isvery good value,withlarge and €45/50/80; 27;s/d/steinclbreakfastVasileon Pavlou &Friderikis Delphi. in isamong thebestvalueplacesbudget, Leto theeyeand rooms. Designedtoplease offers even rated and,surprise, nonsmoking Leto Hotel MIDRANGE 236 Hotel Acropole Hotel Varonos Hotel Hermes Hotel Taverna Gargadouas Delphi Palace TRAELD • Dlh ELLADA STEREA ••Delphi provatina; a

( % ) ) TheDelphiPalace an hasbeen Thewelcomingfamily-run (

22650 82302;Apollonos15;www.leto %

( ( % ( ( % % % €6.50).Youcan also tuck 22650 82919;apolloniadelphi@yahoo 22650 82151;www.delphi-hotels aiw 22650 82318;fax82639; 22650 82675;fax83171; /fax 2265082345;www.hotel

( % Easily thelocalfa- Easily 22650 82488;Vasileon ) Thelobbyof ai nai pai The ) )

) La Vista ( randa viewsandsuperbpizzais sileon Pavlou &Friderikis.Thebestforve- along withafineall-Greek wine list. generous mezedhes,great grillsandsalads, keeps itsendof thebargain. You’llfind décor isdecidedlyupscale,andthefood ing overlooking theGulfof Corinth.The taverna ina19th-centurystonebuild- isset mains€8-15) Pavlou &Friderikis; the Gulf of Corinth. the family.There are great viewsdownto winemadeby ing anunusuallygoodhouse down withoneof theGreek wines,includ- followed byrooster Washit inwinesauce. goats cheese withlemonforanappetiser, taverna featuring traditional localfare, like mains €4.50-11) and plant salad fried cheese. ions, anddeliciousmezedhessuch asegg- stifadho of tasty two mainroads.Themenufeatures arange Delphi’s panelled hideaway,midwaybetween to reach thissmallandunpretentious wood- 10) kala, rather than Larisa. andTri- find better connections viaLamia Friderikis. Note: travellers toMeteora will 82317) departfrom the Buses BUS Getting There&Away price of admission. ture DJsandthrowinafree drinkwith the door totheHermes Hotel. Bothclubsfea- Downtown Vasileon Pavlou &Friderikis,andnearby sion €6) hours.the wee street clubsprovide plentyof dancinginto While therest of twomain- Delphi sleeps, Entertainment fast 11pm) Melopoleio with twointernet computers. Stopby % Climbthesteps above theNationalBank There are plentyof café-bars alongVa- Taverna ToPatrikomas Taverna Vakhos Taverna ISkala 22650 83116;breakfast, snacks&pizza€2-7) pites forexcellentcoffee, juicesandbreak- attheItea endof Vasileon Pavlou & isopposite on theBPpetrolstation

( % (veal stew) andon- withorzopasta mayirefta (pies).

( ( Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 22650 82777) % % Take thesteps tothisexcellent 6946502043; admission€6) 22650 83247;snacks€1.50-4; Club Katoi ClubKatoi

( %

(ready-cooked meals)like ( % 22650 82442;Isaia11;mains€4- hasdecentviews,along 22650 83186;Apollonos31;

( % Aneweatery, this bus station ( % 22650 82150;Vasileon 6932526578; admis- Café Agora Café

( . Nearby isnext % h 22650 Café Café 7am-

4-7pm) three peaksover 2300m:Liakoura,thehigh- 20km northwestof Delphiontheroadto hsaoii5r 2.0 daily 4½hr Trikala €29.90 €13.80 2 Thiva 1¼hr €6.80 5hr Thessaloniki 3-4 €9.30 5-6 Patra 4hr €11.50 daily Nafpaktos 3hr daily daily Livadia 40min €3.60 4hr Larisa 5-6 daily €18.60 daily Lamia 2hr €7.80 3-4 €3 2-3 45min Galaxidi €13 6-7 Athens 3hr daily 8 20min Arahova €1.20 daily Amfissa 30min 8 daily €1.80 Frequency Faredaily Destination Duration daily Delphi from Buses daily lonelyplanet.com from Gibraltar to Sweden,alsoknown asthe from Gibraltar E4 international footpath also partof thevery elaborate Trans-European a remote wilderness.MtParnassos (2457m)is centre gracingitsnortheastern edge, it’shardly destination. WiththeramblingParnassos ski Kouvelos (1881m),apopular rock-climbing (2307m)and est (2459m),Gerontovrakhos .gr) sos NationalPark in1938,the3600-hectareEstablished PARNASSOS MT small cross anda‘3km’sign. of Corinth.Theturn-off ismarked witha of and Itea, thebeautiful19th-centuryconvent findsfrom ancientKirrha. BC early pre-coin money,aswell5th-century- h Museum Archaeological (Church of theSaviour), and theexcellent Byzantinechurch, well-preserved green olives, abeautifuland for itsmarvellous edon, it’sbetter knowntodayamongGreeks byPhillip of Sacked Mac-Lamia. in338BC camping. beach, andgoodbeachside very cleansea town of of Delphi,nowaquietsuburbof themarket Kira the Gulfof Corinthwhere itbranches eastto south fromDelphi,which stretches 18kmto Olive groves andclearskiesmarktheroad DELPHI AROUND , tothenorthof DelphiandArahova, has Heading west fromDelphitowardAmfissa The townof Moni ProfitiIlia 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sat) (2km).ThiswasancientKirrha, theport rests onahillsideoverlooking theGulf Itea , withalongsand-and-pebble STEREA ELLADA STEREA ••AroundDelphi

Amfissa

( (www.oreivatein.com; www.routes % ΠΑΡΝΑΣΣ featuring acollectionof ( % 22650 82002; sitsinthefoothills 22650 23344;admission€2; (orivatiko monopati) h Agios Sotiras Agios O 8am-noon & Σ Parnas-

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.parnassos-ski.gr/en; .parnassos-ski.gr/en; with extreme skiers. are slopesof thesteeper Fterolakkas, popular snowboarding schools. Adjacent toKelaria alongwithskiand and baby-sitting service, restaurants, swankcafés,a medical centre plete holidayfacilitieswithaccommodation, and 17kmfromAmfiklia. There are com- ski runs.Thecentre is24kmfromArahova At lastcount,there were 14liftscovering 20 lar slopeonthemountain, snowboard operationsforthemost popu- The SKIING (€2) toDelphi. Corinth. After lunch oraswim,return bybus from DelphitoAncientKirrha ontheGulfof theshadyolivesthrough groves thatstretch and Galaxidi. awesome viewsof plain Delphi,theAmfissa under fourhours. Alongtheway,there are return toDelphiviaawell-marked pathin via, hike tothecave (halfakilometre), and hikers first hire (€15)asfarKaly- ataxi shrineforPanmountain andDionysos.Many the Delphi. Thefirst connectstwoancientsites, 31525, 6932566206) regarded localguide of Amfiklia. well- Forinformation,contact 20km northof Arahova and25kmsouth Alpine Club’sParnassos refuge at1900m, LiakouraPeak The mostpopularascentonParnassos isto HIKING Activities andvultures.well ashawks,passerines hares, as squirrels andjackals–maybeseen, Greece’s mostcommonmammals–foxes, sproutfromthelimestonerocks. and irises ers squills,tulips,orchids includingcrocuses, fescue grassandwildplumtrees. Springflow- jasminea shrubs andtherare purple-flowered juniper, interspersed withyellow-flowered Parnassos supportKefallonian fir,spruceand www.pezoporia.gr (inGreek only). -ferp.org) formore informationorjump on AssociationRamblers’ website (www.era-eww Path. theEuropean European Rambler See To popular Two 800mand1800m,theslopesof Between A second hikeA second of similarlengthmeanders Temple ofApollo Parnassos Ski Centre Parnassos Ski . Above thetree lineare meadowsof . Theroute beginsattheGreek . h day hikes and Nov-May) Stathis Korikio Antro Korikio

( % start andendat start handlesskiand

Samartzis Samartzis Kelaria 22340 22694;www (1950m). , asacred ( % Daphne

22670 237 CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE sets topassingtourists,Arahovasets ises- spur of MtParnassos at an altitudeof 960m. lowing Easter Tuesday). It’sajoyous three-lowing Easter thefestivalLent, is postponeduntil the fol- around 23April (ifthisdate fallsduring The Festivals banks with ATMs. Plateia Xenias. NearbyonDelphonare three visiting MtParnassos. The finding accommodationandinformation on 8am-8pm May-Oct) fax 2267031630;[email protected]; opposite Plateia Xenias. is locals nottodouble-park.Thebusstation road, andthepoliceare reminding constantly Delphon doublesasthemainAthens–Delphi Pappaioannou, andXenias. thecentralLakka which snakes three itswaythrough squares: The town’smainthoroughfare isDelphon, Information & Orientation alleyways. stepped appreciate itscharm toexplore youneed its town,andto arugged mountain sentially wine. red honey, venirs. Thetownisalsonoted foritscheese, goods, flokatirugsandvariousothersou- embroidery,hand-wovenby shopsselling Delphi. Themainstreet of Arahova isflanked alternative fromwhich tovisitAncient base summer. in reflect thistrend andsomerestaurants close Pricesinwinter be duringtheskiingseason. and forGreeks itisvery much theplaceto Arahova isprimarilyawinter resort forskiers, (ah- Arahova pop 4000 ARAHOVA runstoabout taxi €20. nassos, free withthepriceof aliftticket. A Arahovabetween andtheskicentre onPar- There ispublic transportonwinter weekends Getting There&Away Papos &Baldoumis Arahova. Forskiinstruction,findthereliable municipal touristoffice ( below 238 It’s only12kmfromDelphi,andagood For more DETPA information,contact The helpful Despite this overt flauntingof itsas- Festival of Agios Georgios Festival ofAgios TRAELD • Aaoa ELLADA STEREA ••Arahova ΑΡ ra , onPlateia Xenias, canassistin DETPA office municipaltourist -ho-vah) isbuiltonarocky (fettuccine-style and pasta) A

( % ΧΩΒΑ 22670 31552, 6932106933) post office h isheldintown 8am-9pm Nov-Apr, )innearby isalsoon ( % .

/ road. and spotlessbudgetchoice,justoffthemain Attractive Plateia Lakka. wood stovesandlargemuralspaintedbytheowners. Near pa Pension Petrino in 1967. sleptherebit of historyaswell:theBeatles andincludesa is attactive andcomfortable, grass attheentrance,handsomeNostos d/tr inclbreakfast €75/105) staff is aplus. and huge beds.ThefriendlyEnglish-speaking Rooms are quite traditional,withcarpeting low-key Likoriafeels more like acountryinn. themainroad,300mnorthofOff town,the Greek; s/d/trinclbreakfast from€55/75/100; renovation in 2007. winter. Thehotel benefited fromathorough features acosylobbybartowarmupincome spotless, thisstone-trimmedinn,eastof town, Delphon; s/d/tr€50/60/70; ber to April. winter weekends andholidays,fromNovem- Room pricesinArahova jumpabout50%on Sleeping mezedhes. andfreshlamb stews, porkintomato sauce family taverna themaindragforexcellent off 11; wine. grills, alongwiththefamily’sownred house oven-ready dishes lambandchicken andtasty traditional just eastof serves Plateia Lakka, This handsomeandtraditionalGreek eatery, always afire going. oven andinwinter dishesfillthetables, there’s (the townchurch). Tasty traditionalGreek to thiscosytaverna, behind Agios Giorgios less youdrive here, it’samere (!)263steps up Taverna Panagiota Eating Pension Alexandros town. ing onroasted lamb,allcomplimentsof the contest andonthelastday,feast- tug-of-war day celebrationwithdancingandsinging,a Taverna ToKalderimi Taverna Agnandio Pension Nostos Likoria Hotel Inn Arahova Hotel Other recommendations: h closed mid-Jul–mid-Aug) ) Aclassicmansionwithmountainviews,antique Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ( ( % %

( ( % % ( (

22670 31384;s/d€30/45; % % 22670 31180; www.likoria.gr in22670 31180;www.likoria.gr ( % 22670 32735;mains€5-12) Aside fromtheplastic 22670 31385;www.nostosp.gr; i

22670 32884;s/d€45/60; 22670 31353;fax31134; ( % 22670 32114;mains€6-10) ) Wellmanaged and Stopbythissmall 22670 31418;mains€6- pai a Un- ) )

road. Itsprincipalchurch someof contains which lies3kmsouthof theAthens–Delphi Restaurant Parnassos Restaurant churchonthemainroad. Agios Georgios andsalads. Oppositethestepsto 7.50) Excellentgrills Taverna Karathanasi lonelyplanet.com of Distomo. Without yourown transport,you minutes, hourly),then walk2kmtothe town bus asfartheDistomo crossing(€2.20,35 From Delphi,you can take theLivadia/Athens THERE &AWAYGETTING of anespresso machine. can’t goanywhere outsidehissing distance you’rejust incase oneof peoplewho those 21255) from itsterrace, where withbreathtaking in anidyllicsetting, vistas none of itsoriginalfrescoes have survived. has acolourfulbutlessimpressive interior as of theVirgin Mary), builtinthe10thcentury, the cryptwhere StLuke isburied. fine frescoes whichfind several up brighten of andshade. Walkaroundthecornerto light dow decorations,creating strikingcontrasts is partiallyblocked bytheornate marblewin- Cretan painter. by Michael Damaskinos,the16th-century of There marbleandmosaics. are alsoicons Loukas includes twochurches. Theinterior of prophetic powers. Themonasticcomplex forhishealingand mit whowascanonised dress isrequired (noshorts). Greece’s finest Byzantine frescoes. Modest mid-Sep) 22797; admission€3; The Loukas Osios Moni ARAHOVA AROUND minutes). are toDelphi(€1.50,20 hourlylocalbuses Arahova atPlateia Xenias. Inadditionthere ens andDelphi(€12.60,2½hours) stopin Ath- The five thatrunbetween dailybuses Getting There&Away Plateia Xenias. On €3.50-7.50) Popularforbeanorgoatsoup,tastygrills. Other recommendations: This WorldHeritage–listed monastery is Nearby, thesmaller In themainbodyof thechurch, thelight The monastery isdedicated toalocalher- Moni OsiosLoukas sells local sweets and serves goodcoffee – and serves localsweets sells , themainone,isaglorioussymphony is8kmeastof thevillage of Distomo, STEREA ELLADA STEREA ••AroundArahova h ( ( % 8am-7pm, closed2-4pmEaster– %

(Monastery of St Luke; (Monastery ofStLuke; Mo 22670 31360;mains€3.50- Café BarYannisCafé 22670 32569;mains Agia Panagia Agia νή O σίου (Church (

%

% Λουκά 22670 22670 Agios the waterfront opposite PortoRestaurant. of Agios Nikolaos of Agios plays traditionalembroidery andcostumes. adult/child€2/1; rolaka; ships. sailing flourished duringthedaysof commercial Galaxidi’s uniqueship-building lore, which May) h ( The sparkling Sights ( coves popularwithlocal swimmers. opposite the waterfront, isfringed bypebbled are onNikolaouMama. Aforested headland, bour of andabank Hirolakas.Thepostoffice bours. Kammenoi St leadstothesmallerhar- Mama leadstothelarger of Galaxidi’stwohar- kia, fromwhere themainstreet of Nikolaou Galaxidi’s centralsquare isPlateia Manousa- Information & Orientation caïque-building centre. 1830and1910whenitwasamajortween Galaxidi’s mostprosperousperiodwasbe- charm istested bycarloadsof Athenians. ing summerandholidayweekends, whenits Galaxidi isreasonably tranquilexceptdur- fromwhich tovisitDelphi. base a pleasant streets andtwosmallharbours, andmakes The townisgracedwithnarrowcobblestone on thenorthcoastof theGulfof Corinth. Galaxidi istheprettiest of thelow-key resorts pop 1900 GALAXIDI ment’s apologyfortheatrocity. govern-Greek istheGerman andGerman, slab, erected in1996withinscriptionsboth Thewhite-marble foraguerrillaattack. prisal lagers slainbytheNazisinJune1944re- memorial The onlythingof note inDistomoisthe pop 3823 Distomo willwaitonehouratthemonastery. taxi turn) orDelphi(€35return); the inallcases, from Distomo(€24return), Livadia(€25re- can alsoreach themonastery ataxi bytaking % % The carved-wood iconostasis inthe iconostasis The carved-wood The You canaccesstheinternet at 10am-1.30pm & 5.30-8.30pm Jun-Sep, 10am-4pmOct- 10am-1.30pm &5.30-8.30pmJun-Sep, 22650 42430;perhr€1.80; 22650 41795; Plateia Manousakia; adult/child€5/1; 22650 41795;PlateiaManousakia; documents Greece’s maritimehistory and Folklore Museum Folklore , which commemorates the200vil- Δίστομο ΓΑΛΛΑΞ isone of Greece’s finest. Nautical Historical Museum Museum Nautical Historical h 9.30am-1.30pm Wed-Mon)

( % h I ΔΙ 22650 41910;PlateiaHi- 9.30am-midnight) To Steki Café To Steki Church dis- 239 on war

CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE rooms andthegardenatrecently reno- and cheap. baked codor roasted pork are alwaystasty hes alongwithafew ready-made disheslike but thegenerousstamp, offerings of mezed- of Agios Nikolaos,ontheback of apostage taverna, six-table neartheChurchthis sweet 9; Albatross Eating Pension Hirolakas Pension Votsalo Other recommendations: breakfast basics. square. OwnerStella stocksthekitchen with theportandmain den, andhalfwaybetween each complete withkitchen andflowergar- ouzerie inGreek,house’ thisconverted 1850sstone fast from€90/150; and 100mtoagoodswimmingspot. vated Galaxa,200mfromPlateia Hirolaka, s/d/f €65/75/110; to €130). and there are three modernapartments(€65 suite fivecious split-level thatsleeps (€170), originallivingroomisnowaspa- captain’s breads fromthenearbyfamilybakery. The fresh(€8.50) includejams,cheeses, juicesand Chrisoula Papalexi’s homemadebreakfasts rooms withwood-panelledceilings.Owner offers house century captain’s pastel-shaded courtyardhotelThis delightful ina19th- 20;s/d/tr€37/58/65; .ganimede.gr; NikGourgouris given thenoisylocation. have they’re roomstolet,though often pricey, ofIn summer,several thewaterfront cafés Sleeping and take theroadopposite. of Corinth.Toreach it,goundertheflyover point there are terrific viewsdowntotheGulf 7km inlandfromGalaxidi.Fromthisvantage amidolivestands groves andcypress trees, church. and Follow theEnglishsignsformuseums 240 level rooms, minifridges andseaviews. rooms,minifridges level d/studio/apt€40/70/90; Plateia Hirolaka; Plateia Hirolaka; d/tr€40/60; Plateia Hirolaka; its owntraditionalpersonality,oppositethebay. h o The little13th-century To Spitaki Galaxa Hotel 8am-midnight) TRAELD • Nfats ELLADA STEREA ••Nafpaktos isoneof three adjacent properties,

( % Hotel Ganimede Hotel ( % 22650 42233;KonstadinouSatha36;mains€4- pa ap (

22650 41257,6977512238;d/finclbreak- % ( ( % You couldwrite themenuof % 22650 42292,6977994227; 22650 41620;fax42053; ) Families will like thebig ) 22650 41170;fax41371; Itsnamemeaning‘little a ( ) Three rooms,eachwith % Moni Metamorfosis 22650 41328;www pa ) Split- ai

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George’s paintsandbrushes onthecounter in anupscaleatmosphere. octopus andgrilled mains €8-15)Excellentseafoodrisotto fresh fishandlobster. tastymezedhes, offering mains €4-12)Usuallypacked, attractive waterfront shop, 100mpasttheport jewellery, iconsandhandmadepottery atthis Ostria Shopping Taverna Maritsa Taverna Tasso baked cod. in layers andbaked), and lambwithpasta veggie upreliable family eatery serves Opposite thewaterfront with finemezedhesandgoodwine. include fish risottoandgrilledshrimp, along the fresh bytheowner. fish caught Standouts vouras gets athumbs-upfromlocalswholike intomatosauce. mussels olives anddolmadhestoshrimp itsexcellentdishesrange fromsimple seum, on theoldharbour. Half taverna andhalfmu- at thishandsome200-year-old café seaside h Venetian castle, thelatter protected bya series (Psani) fortress and and awell-preserved trees, trendy cafés,agoodswimming beach circular-walled harbour,dotted withplane in theGulfof Corinth. look for Trizonia, theonly inhabited island of Nafpaktos.Opposite thevillage of Spilia, raki villages, including thepicturesque in andoutof townsand anumberof seaside winds West of highway Galaxidi,thecoastal pop 13,000 NAFPAKTOS five daily). twice daily)andAthens(€16,three hours, 45 minutes, five daily),Patra (€8.50,onehour, Manousakia. There are toDelphi(€3, buses The Getting There&Away opens tosummervisitors. kiosk. Thenearbyfamilyworkshop andstudio Porto Restaurant Porto Taverna Kavouras Liotrivi Cafe Art Other recommendations: Nafpaktos spreads outfrom ahandsome Jul &Aug) , 12kmeastof thebustlingmarket town bus station

( % mousakas 22650 41206/41063) You might spottheowner-artist Youmight Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ( % ( ΝΑΥΠΑΚΤΟΣ

% ( % 22650 41291;AktiOianthis51; ( (

(sliced eggplant arranged(sliced eggplant % ( 22650 41059;AktiOianthis71; % % 22650 42087) 22650 42003;mains€5-12) 22650 41781;mains€4-10; 22650 41182;mains€5.50-9) You can browse for Youcanbrowse plateia, isonPlateia mayirefta thisexcellent flambé Monasti- Ka- and like

waterfront atPsani themodernand Beach, mahias 37;s/d/steinclbreakfast €45/60/110; mahias on 7October1571thatthenaval battleof times,anditwashere inmedieval as Lepanto Venetian andTurk).Nafpaktoswasknown of conquerors (Doric,Roman,Byzantine, of terraced stonewallsbuiltbyasuccession Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com families, withhandsometwo-roomstudios, from €50/60/70; rooms, alongwithattentive staff. a modernlook,withlarge andcomfortable just opposite Thehotel Grimbovo has Beach. pa Beach;s/d/trinclbreakfastpaktos.gr; €47/75/95; Grimbovo rated rooms. Requestaroomfacingthesea. friendly Plazahasspaciousandsmartlydeco- with aminimarket andsmalltaverna. this shady beachside campinggroundcomes Rio–Andirio bridge, 8kmwestof Nafpaktos, 31131; campsitesperadult/tent€7.50/4) August). totheendof (mid-Julythrough mer season sum- drop byabout20%outsidethehigh In Nafpaktos,expectpricesquoted here to Sleeping access perhr€1.50; Hobby Club Information Cervantes ofa smallbronzestatue battlehero domination of theMediterranean. Lookfor over theTurkstemporarily endedtheirnaval Spain andVenice. Theoverwhelming victory pire andthecombinednavies of theVatican, theOttomanEm- tookplacebetween Lepanto Hotel Regina Hotel Nafpaktos Hotel Plaza House DounisBeach Camping TLFkd Ie 1h € 5daily 4daily 3dailyMon-Fri €7 2dailyMon-Fri €6.30 4daily €4.20 1¾hr €7.40 2daily 1¼hr €22.20 50min 1½hr Itea €17.70 Galaxidi 5hr Messolongi Fokida KTEL AthensviaDelphi&Thiva Agrinio Fokida KTEL 3hr Fokida KTEL Manassi 3½hr Lamia Manassi €12.50 2 2 30min PatraManassi AthensviaAndirio–Rio €33 €2.80 7 Manassi 6hr Thessaloniki Manassi Manassi Frequency daily Fare Station Destination Duration NAFPAKTOSdaily FROM BUSES daily Mon-Fri ) Lookforthebluebalconyrailings, , belowtheharbourwall. ( % a (

( % 26340 22288;Psani Beach;internet % h ) TheReginaisagreat dealfor

26340 22226;fax23174;Nav- 26340 21555;fax21556;s/d/tr 9am-3am) OppositePsani Beach. ( % 26340 23788;www.hotelnaf

( % 26340 31665;fax Towards the STEREA ELLADA STEREA ••Messolongi a Miguel de Miguel ) Onthe coming owner, Dimitris, serves tasty taverna tasty coming owner,Dimitris,serves 48; mains€4-10; lipiou) popular foritspricesandexcellent station. from thehandsomecentralsquare; Athanasiou better it looks.Harilaou Trikoupi,which runs youget,is hardlyappealing.Butthecloser the From adistance, Messolongi’s flatlandscape pop 12,000 MESSOLONGI ting toplaceslike Patra couldn’tbeeasier. each way)thebridge iscatching on,andget- made byferry. Despite thesteep toll(€10.90 on thePeloponnese, acrossingformerly only tium, nowconnectsmainlandAndirioandRio bridge, completed in2004byaFrench consor- station Fokida the large Church of Agios Dimitrios.The station The Nafpaktos hastwobusstations. Getting There&Away front locationisaplus. lemon juice fare such pumpkinleaves asstuffed withrice, grilled fresh fish(byth stifadho andrabbit capsicumandtomatoes stuffed youvetsi pita mains €3.50-9) Taverna OStavros Eating 50m fromPsani Beach. all withkitchenettes andbalconies,only The striking Rio–Andirio suspension Christakis Restaurant Christakis (spinach pie), oven-cooked disheslike is400mfurthereastfromtheManassi

( % (orzowithveal intomatosauce), (cooked alongwith inatomatosauce), 26340 27224; cnr Manassi &Botsari) 26340 27224;cnrManassi Thisreliable boardwalkeatery is , andgrilledcalamari.Thebeach- h

( (fish-roe puree) and withpotato (fish-roe % 10am-midnight) ΜΕΣΟΛ

( 26340 27241; cnr Kefalourisou &Ask- 26340 27241;cnrKefalourisou % 26340 27473; Grimbovo Beach; 26340 27473;Grimbovo

( % e kiloorthedish). 26340 29446; Navmahias 26340 29446;Navmahias O Christakis’ wel- Christakis’ ΓΓΙ isbehind spanako- Manassi Manassi

241

KTEL CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE Egyptian general Ibrahim,Messolongi wascap- named after him. Greek) andmostGreek townshave astreet their 70s,bearthenameByron(Vyronasin a Greek nationalhero. Many men,nowin of theWarof Independence,makinghim spurred international forcestohasten theend unfulfilled. aims and diedon19April1824,hisimmediate of vainattempts, Byroncontracted afever Afterporting theGreek months wareffort. intention of organising thetroopsandsup- Lord Byron arrived there in1823withthe philhellenicbard western outpost.Britain’s byMavrokordatoschosen astheFanariot townoftegically important Messolongi was During theWarof Independence,thestra- History for photographers and bird-watchers. tian pelican–nottomentionapilgrimage site breeding groundfortheendangered Dalma- of migratingbirdsaswellanimportant and afavourite winter stopover forthousands goon with goodbars andtavernas. lively themare pedestrianlanesbetween lined which isparalleltoit,andthe Razikotsika, 242 But Byron’sdeathwasnotinvain–it In thespringof 1826,underthe helmof The townskirtsthemotionless colourful language forthisday.colourful the country,many Greeks use rathermore front. Referred throughout toas‘No-Day’ RussianGreece fromthe all-important Nazis, whowere forcedtomove troopsto The fierceresistance the finallyweakened who demandedsurrender withoutafight. Greeks shouted ‘No!’totheItalian Fascists oftheschool’sgates.traditional sanctuary who hadbarricadedthemselves withinthe students atPolytehnio University inAthens by government troopsof 21unarmed Empire.rule bytheOttoman Day, commemorates theendofcenturies country. remembered instreet namesaroundthe Three majordates inGreek historyare HISTORY STREET-SIGN , thelargest naturalwetlandinGreece, TRAELD • Msoog ELLADA STEREA ••Messolongi ‘28 October 1940’marksthe day when‘28 October ‘17 November 1973’marksthemassacre ‘25 March1821’,orGreek Independence Klisova La- Klisova plateia €1.50; sued thefollowingdecree: independence, Yiannis Kapodistrias, whois- ders of thefirst governor of Greece following ontheor-memorial gardenwasestablished as ‘Heroes’ Tombs’ontheroadsign.This of theHeroes Just beyondtheGate of isthe Exodus Sights police Tourist Post office Services Challenger Internet on its eastern side. dle. Thesquare isdominated bythetownhall square, Plateia Markou inthemid- Botsari, rectangulara roughly gridwiththemain of Etolo-Akarnania. Thetownislaidoutin Messolongi of isthecapital theprefecture Information & Orientation Poliorkimeni’ (‘The Free Besieged’). ‘IEleftheri in DionysiosSolomos’epicpoem capture. Thistragicexoduswasimmortalised others ratherthanface jumpedtotheirdeath andkilled;many Mt Zygos,onlytobecaught called the of whatisnow the night 22April1826through 9000 men,womenandchildren toescapeon tured bythe Turks. Theiryear-long siege drove fused Byron’s burialatWestminster Abbey.fused TheEnglish authorities atthetimere-statue. kept bytheGreeks andisburiedbeneaththe was returned toEngland,but hisheartwas mourning period, Byron’sembalmedbody their freedom. Attheendof anational21-day British noblemanwhohadgiven hislife for the Greeks were heartbroken attheloss of a prominently inthegarden.WhenByron died, garden. Asmall as youenter the the marbleslabtoright You willfindtheGreek text of thisdecree on plateia gratitude. try may,each year,repay itsdebtof to rest inamemorialwhere ourcoun- mains of menandtolaythem these together, withreverence, theholyre- ing thecity…itisourdutytogather men, whofell bravely whiledefend- solongi liethebonesof brave those wallsof…within these thecityof Mes- . . h 11am-11pm) Fifty metres north ofthe 11am-11pm) Fifty metres north central (SpyrouMoustakli)Justeastofthe central Gate ofExodus Gate (

( h % 9am-8pm) 26310 27220; Spyrou Trikoupi 29) 26310 27220;SpyrouTrikoupi statue ofLord Byron , translated incorrectly . Mosttookrefuge on (Petropoulou 7;perhr lonelyplanet.com features Garden Garden a collectionof Byronmemorabilia. Boneup on your War of Independence history (see on yourWarof Independencehistory(see op- 4-7pm) admissionfree; Botsari; Plateia Markou Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com a second look. Insummer,it’s alovelya second coastal onlyAstakos andMytikas merit Ionian Sea, Of thescattered villages facingthe seaside ΜΥΤΙΚΑΣ Astakos & Mytikas to Northwest of road. thesandy nas anddomatia(roomsforrent) attheend visit Tourlida,withacoupleof decenttaver- to Klisova viathe5km-long causeway Lagoon With yourowntransport,youcandrive across Tourlida MESSOLONGI AROUND and Mytikas(€7.40,1½hours, daily). (€11.30,2½hours,daily), Amfissa twicedaily) hourly), Nafpaktos(€4.20,50minutes, three daily),Agrinioutes, seven (€3.30,35minutes, 3½ hours, 10daily),Patra (€4.80,50min- toAthens viaRio–Andirio(€19.80, services thecentralsquare.is justoff There are regular The Away & There Getting hangingondisplayinthewindow. eels for thishandsomelittle ciality – mains €5-9) plateia at thispopulareatery the midwaybetween dishes includingbaked fish, are mainstays ropoulou 16;mains€4-10.50) centre. overlook Klisova 3kmfromthetown Lagoon, most of thehotel’s large andcarpeted rooms 2; s/d€65/80; adjacent Plateia Markou Botsari. towards therear, toavoid dinof theevening you’ll get intherooms sleep abetter night’s a be yourguide. Hotels inMessolongi are limited; letlocation Eating & Sleeping of historicevents. full importance these posite ) beforehand inordertoget afeel forthe The Ouzerie Dimitrouka Dimitrouka Ouzerie Restaurant Megaro Radio Theoxenia Avra ) TheAvra but istidyandcomfortable, KTEL busstation KTEL isdedicated totherevolution andhas

( andthebay. % Museum of History &Art ofHistory Museum petali If you’dlike totryMessolongi’s spe- ΤΟΥ /fax 26310 22284; Harilaou Trikoupi; s/d€28/45; Trikoupi; /fax 2631022284;Harilaou a

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% 26310 22371; Mavrokordatou 5) 26310 22371;Mavrokordatou Grills andoven-ready 26310 23237; Razikotsika 11; 26310 23237;Razikotsika ouzerie;

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26310 23468;Stav- h ( % lookforthe STEREA ELLADA STEREA ••Karpenisi 9am-1.30pm & 26310 22134;

Commercial Bank. Aitolou; perhr€2; gianni 2) ATMs. Six banks aroundthecentral square have MONEY Laundry Ariston LAUNDRY Café Internet Phoenix ACCESS INTERNET Police Hospital EMERGENCY Information from it. square; runsnorthwest EthnikisAndistasis giou Tsitsara rundownhill fromthecentral nasiou Karpenisioti andSpyridonosGeor- The thoroughfares of Zinopoulou,Atha- Orientation nearby skicentre ispopularwithGreeks. lages andhistoricalmonasteries. Inwinter, a vil- rafting andmountain-biking tomountain bakeries. Opportunitiesaboundforhiking, mixed inamongitschurches, tavernas and pine-village feel toit,withchalet-style lodgings prefecture of Evritania, thetownhasanal- prisingly, given itshomeinthemountainous and 48kmeastof Kremasta. Lake Notsur- Mt Tymfristos(2315m),82kmwestof Lamia Karpenisi liesinthe well-woodedfoothillsof pop 6456 KARPENISI Kefallonia (Sami)insummer. daily ferry to/fromIthaki(PisoAetos) and stone foraccesstotheIonianIslands,via tikas’ cosiness,butit’saconvenient stepping Kastos islands of nas. Youcantake alocalcaïquetotheisolated hotels, afew domatiaandascattering of taver- water clear. crystal There are onlyacoupleof andtheis pebblyanduncommercialised, is linedwithpalmtrees Thebeach andhouses. Mytikas solongi. drive, make andbuses dailyrunsfromMes- Astakos Astakos A sleepy charmerA sleepy ontheIoniancoastline, ( , tucked awayontheotherside. % ae’ eg (3m rm Messolongi) from (63km edge water’s ’ ( % (49kmfromMessolongi) lacksMy- 22370 89150,23666;Pavlou Bako- Kalamos Kalamos 22370 80680; Ethnikis Antistasis9) 22370 80680;Ethnikis ΚΑΡΠΕΝ h (Athanasiou Karpenisioti 25) Next to 25)Next (AthanasiouKarpenisioti 11am-3am) , omn oe Mtks or Mytikas, over looming , ( % 22370 23696;Kosma H ΣΙ

243 CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE www.trekking.gr; KosmaAitolou1) www.trekking.gr; corner, 150mdownAthanasiouKarpenisioti. comfortable. on thesmall side,butare spotlessand very tourist office. Themarble-floored rooms are steps) above the town square, opposite the attractive andsimpledomatiaare (51 high Koutsikos Domatia Sleeping Jack ambience. Daniels–meets– theme here istheAmericanOldWest,witha restaurant Theunmistakable andstable. ing perhradult/child€20/10) check outthe Kremasta. aroundLake canoeing along withmountain-biking excursions and in exploringthenearbycanyonsof , inGreek; Oikonomou9) www.mountainaction.gr canyoning. rockclimbingand horse riding,canoeing, Karpenisibetween andKrikello, alongwith hikesises onthe Trans-European E4trail door-activity companyintownandorgan- lessons thrownin. dogging’ (advanced; white water), withacrobatic‘hot Tavropos (moderate) andKrikelopotamos rafting tripstothree rivers: Aheloös(easy), 61) equipment andtransport. Prices average €30to€40perday,including water rafting,snowboardingandcanyoning. extreme-sports offerings includingwhite- and rockclimbers. a meccaforhikers, skiers, mountain-bikers lifts fromNovember toMarch. Karpenisi is .snowreport.gr) Karpenisi The Activities office Tourist INFORMATION TOURIST Post office POST 244 posite the central square and next tothetaxistand. posite thecentralsquare andnext It’sfoundop- aroundKarpenisi. and adventure activities you area mapsandinformation onaccommodationoptions staffcangive Sat, 10am-2pmSun)TheEnglish-speaking .gr; specialises inmountain-biking andgraded specialises F-Zein F-Zein Mountain Action Mountain Action For child-friendly horseridingneartown, The well-run Three friendlycompetitors intownboast h TRAELD • Kreii ELLADA STEREA ••Karpenisi 9am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm&5-8pm 9am-2pm &5-8pmMon-Fri, ( % (Agiou Nikolaou Karpenisiotou) Nearthe (Agiou NikolaouKarpenisiotou) onMtVelouhi operates seven ( 22370 80150; [email protected]; Zinopoulou 22370 80150;[email protected]; % Saloon Park Ski centre Ski /fax 2237021016;www.karpenisi (

Trekking Hellas Trekking % ( % 22370 21400;s/d€20/30) /fax 2237022940,69727061777; , acombinationbar-

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istheoldestout- % ( % 22370 23506;www

( 22370 24606;rid- % specialises specialises 22370 31789; These These Karpenisioti 35;mains€3.50-7; Karpenisioti 18; mains€4-8) Georgiou Tsitsara. leafy outdoorterrace. There’s acomprehen- Panorama, 100mpastHotel Galini,withits tuck intoagenerous plate of porkchops. prepared dishes, pizzaandsoups,or pasta terol-raising breakfasts, ham-and-egg well- fromcholes- owls.Choose the localnight Karpenisi’s cheapest eatery isahitwith Featuring bigGreek-American-style dishes, StarRestaurant Three Eating mural onthewallfacingcentralsquare. wood andmarbletouches. Lookforthegiant andgoodvalue. Roomsfeatureion isefficient from €50/60/70/120; 4;s/d/tr/steinclbreakfast apollonion.gr; AthanasiouKarpenisioti wood lobby. peted, cosyroomsandamassive marbleand the centralsquare, theElvetia features car- Zinopoulou 17;s/dinclbreakfast €40/65) From the nishings, spotlessroomsandfriendlyowners. great budget choice, withsimplewoodfur- Fereou 3;s/d€25/40) posite Agiou Georgiou church. at thesame roughly don’t get Andit’s goinguntil after midnight. ( authentic livenight, Greek music at months, wanttocatch youmight somelate- If you’re intownduringthebusierwinter Entertainment rice andmixed vegetables. prepared oven-ready disheslike chicken and homemade soupof theday,alongwithwell- above themainsquare. There’s alwaysahearty cloths atthissmartfamily-runtaverna, just €4.50-7.50) and mountains. alongwithpatioviewsofsalads, thetown finegrillsand is ahandsometaverna serving mains€4-9; 24080; PlateiaAgiou Georgiou; soup. grilled meatsandaheartygoatpotato sive menufeaturing traditionalGreek fare, % Taverna Esi Oti Peis Taverna EsiOti Taverna Panorama Apollonion City Hotel Hotel Elvetia Hotel Taverna EnElladi Hotel Galini Hotel 6973780885; KosmaEtolou 9; Lookforthered andwhite table- plateia, Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Localslike thefamilyfeel of (

% ( % a Theside-street Galiniisa 22370 22914; fax 22370 25623; Riga 22370 22914;fax25623;Riga ( walk100mupSpyridonos % 22370 22465; www.elvetiahotel.gr; 22370 22465;www.elvetiahotel.gr; ) ThehandsomeApollon-

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22370 22235;Kotsidou4;mains % ( % 22370 25976; Riga Fereou22370 25976;Riga 22370 24800;Athanasiou h 22370 25001;www.hotel (

h % 8am-4am Wed-Mon) Sep-Jun) 22370 25200) Overlooking Overlooking h dinner) . Things Notes Live Notes % This 22370 , op-

refuge for thehike up Athens (€21.50,five hours, fourdaily),Lamia oupi) Karpenisi’s BUS Getting There&Away Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com square, including thewelcoming Dryas of well-appointed domatia onornearthe breakfast €60; Dryas Hotel Eating & Sleeping Kremasta. lage of southwest fromKarpenisi tothequaintvil- of theAssumption. and pilgrimsflockhere inAugustfortheFeast church. There are resident several monks, naments inthemonastery’s 18th-century miracle-working iconandecclesiasticalor- just before thevillage of Prousos,claimsa terminal. footpath thatbeginsopposite thevillage bus the banksof theRiver Karpenisiotis ona strollalong youcantakesedate, apleasant www.karpenissi.gr) at theKarpenisi Sep) h Museum Folklore Oneof isthewell-signpostedhouses. these Horio Megalo along theProusosroad. mansions andisreached turn-off byaright southwest of Karpenisi, haswell-preserved lages. Therestored village of picturesquethe wayyou’llpassseveral vil- south for37kmtothevillage of From Karpenisi, roadleads ascenicmountain KARPENISI AROUND Prousos, it’sabout€25each way. Gavros, Megalo HorioandMikroHorio;to From thecentral I X A T (€3, 50minutes, Fridayonly). 25 minutes, oneortwodaily)andProusos Megalo Horio,MikroGavros (€1.20, 3½ hours,departfor oncedaily).Localbuses (€6, 1½hours, fourdaily)andAgrinio (€9.20, Another panoramicroadleads 25km Proussiotissas Panagias Moni Twelve kilometres beyondKorishadesis 10.30am-3pm Fri-Sun Oct-May, 10am-2pm&6-8pmJun- Oct-May, 10.30am-3pm Fri-Sun . Megalo point Horioisalsothestarting is2.5kmsoutheastof runto town.Buses (1450m)forovernight hikers; inquire Fidakia

p ( bus station % , withmanytraditionalstone , with magnificent views to Lake , withmagnificentviewstoLake . Ifyoufancysomethingmore ) Megalo Horiohas anumber 22370 41131;fax 41133;rincl Mt Kaliakouda

tourist office tourist ( % plateia 22370 41502;admissionfree; (

% 22370 80013; Harilaou Trik- 22370 80013;Harilaou it’sabout €12to (

% (2098m),witha

Koryshades ( % /fax 2237021016; Prousos STEREA ELLADA STEREA ••AroundKarpenisi 22370 80705) . Along . , 5km , , Prousos, thiswelcomingnine-roompension cide’ toys. children’s to Roman times,including someHellenistic and lamb offal), 2.30pm) Museum for theviews.Within itisthe Lamia’s Sights Post office Police station Battle Net Parkou. Six banks,allwithATMs, encirclePlateia Information morning. Fereou andits sidestreets Saturday every tavernas. tional by large planetrees, kicksback withtradi- whereasyounger shaded set, Plateia Laou, Eleftherias, withswankcafeterias, attractsa destinations. differentare five busterminals, allserving andPlateia Parkou.erias, Plateia Laou There revolvesLife aroundPlateia inLamia Elefth- Orientation round. Itisfamousforits isavibrantandlively placeyear-hood, Lamia not dependentontourismfortheirliveli- alook-in.Like mosttownsthatare deserves rarely figures ontravellers’ itineraries,butit the western endof theMaliakos Gulf.Lamia otida, builtinthefoothillsof MtOrthysat of isthecapital theprefectureLamia of Fthi- pop 47,246 ( Try theriverside ofin search agood mealinthecountryside. comforts. located inthecentralsquare offers traditional €35/50; valley. with stylishroomsandbalconyviewsof the access perhr€1.50)OppositeAthinaHotel. LAMIA % There’s abustlingstreet market onRiga Pension Agathidis Two squares Plateia are nearoneanother: Nearby Gavros attractsKarpenisi families 22370 41202; mayirefta & grills €5-8) &grills 22370 41202;mayirefta xynogala , which displaysfindsfrom p kafeneia

ΛΑΜ frourio ( ( % (AthanasiouDiakou)Oppositethe ) Ifyouwanttolinger overnight in % ( kourabiedes 22310 29992;admission €2; % (sourmilk). 22310 67424; Rozaki Angeli40;internet 22310 67424;Rozaki (fortress) isworththehike just (coffee houses), bakeries (coffee houses), and I 22310 22431;Patroklou) Α

( % Taverna ToSpititouPsara 22370 80813,6974027680;s/d (almondshortcake) . Archaeological Archaeological h plateia (grilled 8.30am- . 245

CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE Angeli 41;s/d€35/45; setting. The house claimtofameisslow- Thehouse setting. classic dishes in amodern ket Fitilisserves mains €4.50-8) canopy of greenery. withoutdooreatingundera Plateia Laou, snacks)around ouzoandlight that serve €3-7) dishes. point-and-eat ahuge range of oven-made tasty, serves 10; mains€2.50-7.50) able and good value. and thetile-floored roomsare large, comfort- and well-managed Athinaiscentrallylocated, Athina Hotel Eating & Sleeping odds. overwhelming ultimately perishedthe Spartans against nidas honours theheroicbattlesite where Persian armyof of Xerxes. Astatue Leo- managed totemporarily halttheinvading andabandofLeonidas 300brave Spartans row passof station. train ravine,spans adeep justbeyondthemain ofsabotage thetime. Thereconstructed bridge and isconsidered oneof thegreatest actsof advance, in anattempt todelaytheGerman British, on25November 1942.Thiswasdone tion of Greek forces,aidedbythe Resistance wasblownupbyacoali- 7km fromLamia, 246 Taverna Ilysia About isthenar- 20kmsoutheastof Lamia The original Fitilis Restaurant Fitilis Restaurant Ouzerie and a few herdsofgoatsalongtheway. Greece’s largest naturallake. This isabeautifuldrive, passingthroughseveral smallvillagesand recorded fortaxation purposes,sothey were classifiedas occupation ofGreece), the villagesofthisregion(Turkish were considered tooremote tobe the villageof holdings intoAgrinio. road inabout3½hours. Twobusesdailyplythistortuous The roadseemstoclimbandtwistforever, eventually windingitswaydownthroughsmallfarm bridge over harrowing initsownway.The andcrossesalong firstroute initiallyheadswestfromKarpenisi There are three mountainousroutes –eachdistinctive, eachabit travelling southfromKarpenisi THE LONG&WINDINGROADS Oneof acluster of bright TRAELD • Lma ELLADA STEREA ••Lamia A third route, also requiring your own transport, passes the striking farmingvillagesof A thirdroute, passes thestriking alsorequiring yourowntransport, Each route crossesthe mountainsandvillagesoftheAgrafa territory. Duringthe A second and shorter route pastA secondandshorter requires andwindssouthfromKarpenisi yourowntransport, Ano Hora

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% ( Prousos 22310 27700; fax 22310 37722; Rozaki 22310 27700;fax37722;Rozaki . Thislarge, no-frills taverna pa Railway Bridge Railway Gorgopotamos % 22310 43883;Androutsou14;mains ( % 22310 27006; Kalyva Bakogianni 22310 27006;Kalyva 22310 26761;PlateiaLaou6; ) Thenewlyrenovated , continuingtothetownof , where, in 480 BC, BC, 480 in where, , , a spectacular drive, aspectacular throughsomeremote andbeautifulcountryside. ouzeries ouzeries (places , fon 41) (€10.50, twohours, twodaily,oneSaturday). 1¾ hours, five daily). buses gonorthtoTrikala(€8,2½hours,buses six Markou Botsari 3) Botsari Markou hours). three is onedirect busadayforPatra (€16.10, €7.80, twohours, three tofourdaily).There four daily)andDelphi(change inAmfissa; (€6.10,1½hours,south toAmfissa three to daily) forMeteora andKalambaka. head Buses (€3.90, Konstantinos 50 minutes). ends). TheAthens-bound busstopsatAgios (€22.50, fourhours, twodaily,three onweek- (€16.80, three hours, hourly)andThessaloniki &Papakyriazi)Satovriandou along withone Lamia, regional station. There are busterminals in fourlong-distance BUS Getting There&Away pigs in their windows. ing grilledfood)withwholelambs,goatsand nightmare, fullof southern endof Karaïskaki isavegetarian’s reaches thepointof The deificationinLamia. potatoes. and cooked lambwrappedinpaperwithcheese province, includingLoutraIpatis(€1.50,30 stantinoupoleos 6) Angeli69) 22627; Rozaki Thermo The From the From the From Greece’s proclivityforgrilledmeats Central From the , opposite Halliopouleio SportCentre, regional busstation regional agrafa inthehillsabove Papakyriazi station Papakyriazi Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Markou Botsari station Botsari Markou Agrafon buses departforKarpenisi buses (€6, (unrecorded). has buses forwestern Fthiotida hasbuses Rozaki Angelistation Rozaki you’ll find buses forVolos you’llfindbuses psistarias

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ΔΡΥΜΟΣ TRAIN per week). Park, andPavliani (€3.60,90minutes, two minutes, fourtofive daily)nearItiNational lonelyplanet.com exploring theregion. LoutraIpatis isprefer- for your own transport,thisis anidealbase andIpatiforhikes onMtIti.WithLamia to asummersulphur tional square Plateia Ainianon,flanked bytradi- hub of thevillage isthetree-shaded, central Olympus. tal Hercules joinedhis divinepeers onMt elements inHercules perished, theimmor- built hisownfuneralpyre. Whilethemortal Iti wastheplacewhere thedyingHercules black pine. Accordingtomythology,Mt It isaverdant region withforests of firand pointforhikessouth) astarting onMtIti. a fortress andis(alongwithPavliani tothe road,hastheremainsKarpenisi–Lamia of and8kmsouthof22km westof the Lamia No 7, hiking routes inIti,pickupAnavasi topomap eration about hikes the inMtIti,contact has fallenintodisrepair. Forinformation (Trapeza at1850m)nearthesummit(2114m) fact, trailsare notwellmarked andarefuge tle infrastructure, crowded.In andit’snever nationalparks.There’sdeveloped very lit- Iti isoneof Greece’s mostbeautifulbutleast PARK NATIONAL ITI hour. both runsforhalftheprice,andtake anextra three hours, sixdaily).Slowertrainsmake hours, (€19.50, sixdaily)andThessaloniki station.) trainsconnectwiththelocaltrain distance leos andSatovriandou. (Note thatnolong- ticket office,atthecornerof Konstantinoupo- locatedtrain station, 200msoutheastof the andthelocal main Lianokladitrainstation trains,aspecialOSEbuslinksthe distance office ticket fromthe inLamia should bepurchased the towncentre atLianokladi.Traintickets is6kmwestof maintrainstation Lamia’s The borderingvillage of The shadyvillage of Loutra Ipatisishome Ipati ismostlyuntouched bytourism.The Intercity trains runtoAthens(€15.20,2½ Central Greece: Fokidha kafeneia

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ΟΙΤΗΣ ( 210 3645904) % 22310 23201;Averof 28) . STEREA ELLADA STEREA ••ItiNationalPark inAthens.Forcurrent spa ΕΘΝΙΚΟΣ , and is close toboth , andisclose . Ipati . Foralllong- , located Alpine Fed-

ΚΩΝΣΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΣ OSE te quay. the 4) 31614; Karaïskaki 2) 32444; Karaïskaki chased from either hours). 2½ (€36.50, twohours) andAlonnisos (€36.50, for Skiathos(€27,1½hours), Skopelos Hydrofoils departonetotwotimesdaily HYDROFOIL ( (€36, fourhours). Contact Skopelos (€36,3½hours) andAlonnisos toSkiathos(€28,2½hours),Konstantinos Fast ferries make dailyrunsfromAgios FERRY daily) andPatra (€18.60,3½ hours, daily). (€24.60,fourhours,hourly), Thessaloniki two (€3.90,onehour, toLamia hours), andbuses to Athens’Terminal (€13,2½ Bbusstation of theferry landing,there are hourlybuses the Galaxiassupermarket about 200msouth From the BUS Getting There&Away Kaitsas ticket includingthereliable offices, tavernas keep companywiththeferrySeveral a 31702; fax2235032604;Eivoilou10;s/dinclbreakfast €45/65; try thewell-managed or hydrofoil. ifyouget However, stranded, beforenight catching aSporades-bound ferry over- tostay and theport,youwillnotneed northern Sporades. Skopelos andAlonnisos,which make upthe theislandsof Skiathos, thatserve saloniki) mainland ports(alongwithVolosandThes- route, isoneofAthens–Thessaloniki the three Agios which isonthemain Konstantinos, pop 2657 KONSTANTINOS AGIOS and 98335; Ipati;mains€4-7; pa 59380; fax2231059372;LoutraIpatis;s/dinclbreakfast €30/40; welcoming andspotless home tothebesteateries nearMtIti.Trythe able forhotels, whileIpati’sbusysquare is % Ferry andhydrofoil tickets maybepur- Athens of between With judicioususe buses ) between theharbourandcentralsquare. between 22350 31614; Karaïskaki 4) 22350 31614;Karaïskaki kokoretsi

) . Modest ( % bus station 22350 33323;mains€4.50-8.50) intheevening. or Ouzerie Eleni Karyampa EleniKaryampa Ouzerie , between thesquare, between and Bilalis Travel Agency Bilalis Travel h ( Alkyon Ferry Co % Hotel Amfitryon Hotel dinner) for tickets. Hotel Alexakis Alexakis Hotel 22350 32223) ΑΓΙΟΣ Bilalis Travel Agency Bilalis Travel serves souvlaki serves .

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(55km) Larisa National Park Mt Olympus E65 Larisa has been inhabited forover hasbeen 8000Larisa Ambelonas Anargyri Ag Litohoro Farsala Dilofo Vale of Tembi Agnanderi E75 Λ Katerini E92 To Lamia(43km); Athens (227km) Ambelakia A Mt Ossa (1978m) Almyros Kofi ΡΙΣΑ Kokoti Vrinena Stomio 40km 20miles 0 0 Agia Melivia Skiti See PelionPeninsulaMap(p256) E75 Dimitrias Pagasitikos Gulf Volos Trikeri A EGN Pouri lonelyplanet.com Gatzea Kato Vyzitsa S EA Milina Agios Ioannis Afissos Evia Peninsula Sporades Pelion Platanias (10km) To about thetown. Rousvelt14)Askhere forgeneralinformation Metropole, on thesouthernsideof townandthemainbus Vale of Tembi is Thetrainstation tothesea. the Pinios, which flowsthrough eventually occupiestheeastbankof theRiverLarisa Orientation Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 10.30am-2.30pm Sat&Sun) admission free; Katsigra; and grave stelae from theregion. Neolithicfinds contains posite Plateia Laou, Avgoustou 2;admissionfree; kastro More recently, itwashometothemedieval tlement’s acropolisduringclassical times. astheancient set- andthatitwasused BC), sincetheNeolithicAge settled has been (6000 chaeological thatproves evidence thisarea The Activities & Sights Office Tourism Municipal ofLarisa Association Hotel INFORMATION TOURIST Post office POST eral banksonPlateia MihailSapka. There are ATMs andsev- atthetrainstation MONEY h K-Net ACCESS INTERNET Police station Hospital EMERGENCY Information squaresthese are mainlypedestrianised. other twomainsquares. Thestreets around Makariou andPlateia MihailSapkaare the the town’snorthernend.Plateia Ethnarhou Venizelou and31Avgoustou runningacross ern endof withEleftheriou Plateia Laou, alongOlympou. station 200msouthofis Plateia themainbus Laou, isonthenorthernside.station Itsmainsquare 24105 37076;Ipirou58; The runacrossthesouth- Kyprou andNikitara The 8am-midnight) ( % (castle). % Archaeological Museum Archaeological ( Municipal % 24105 39355; Rouzvelt 24;perhr€2; 24105 39355;Rouzvelt (cnrPapanastasiou &Athanasiou Diakou) 24106 16266;cnrPapandreou &KliouPatera; 24102 30031;Tsakalof 1) h ( onAgios Ahillios Hillhasar- % 10.30am-2.30pm &5-8.30pmTue-Thu,

24106 83137;Papanastasiou 86) Art Gallery ofLarisa Gallery Art h houses asuperb private houses h 7am-2.30pm Mon-Fri) ( % ( 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) % 24106 18189;fax 24105 37161;Hotel

( % 24102 88515;31 THESSALY ••Larisa

(Pinakothiki (Pinakothiki , op- ful staff. andhascleanroomshelp- train station, the pickof three budget hotels opposite the without bathroom€25/30,d€30/40; metropol.gr; Rousvelt14;s/d/finclbreakfast €45/65/80; the river. alongwithAgrinio, shares Larisa, local trains toVolos(€2.10, 50minutes). You 3½ hours, three daily). There are also hourly (€13, 80minutes)saloniki andAthens(€24, isa Lar- Intercity trains passdailythrough Seven TRAIN (€6.40, 1½hours, two daily). kala (€5.30,onehour,hourly)andKalambaka runregularlyAnthimou, buses to/fromTri- Iroön Polytehniou) four hours, twodaily). (€4.80, onehour,12daily)andIoannina(€15, (€12.50,twohours,saloniki 13daily),Volos daily),Thes- €11.30, 2½hours, sixtoseven (forDelphi; daily),Lamia hours, sixtoseven &Olympou) 37777; cnrGeorgiadou leaveBuses Larisa’s BUS Getting There&Away veggie and isalwayspacked. roastlamband Excellent tohave.Greek townseems It’sopenallday restaurants sizable thatevery no-nonsense 8; mains€4.50-8) Syndrivani Restaurant Plateia Ethnarhou Makariou, stopbyreliable lively squares.gether aroundLarisa’s Near the owner’spaintings. large andattractive roomsare decorated with andEthnarhouMakariou.Plateies Laou The this family-managed hotel, foundbetween pai Pantheon Hotel Eating & Sleeping a hotday. splashes alldaylong,arefreshing on sight on Plateia Ethnarhou Makariou gushes and place inGreece. Thegrandmarble the unenviablerecord of beingthehottest Athens. onlytotheNationalArtGalleryin second collection of contemporary Greek artthat’s From abranch Metropole Hotel Dozens of decenteateries are bunched to- Relax andcooldownat train station mousakas ) Should you linger in Larisa, try Should youlinger inLarisa, , oneof long-established, those

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% ( % are amongthefavourites. 24102 34810;PlateiaOSE4;swith/ 24105 90143) bus station (

( % mainbusstation % 24105 37161;www.hotel 24105 35933; Protopapadaki 24105 35933;Protopapadaki forAthens(€25,4½ Alkazar Park Alkazar a to/fromThes-

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24105 249 CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE The waterfront street of Argonafton is,forhalf train station. The bus station is 500m further is500mfurther The busstation train station. ern endof the mainwaterfront area, nearthe Iolkou). Plateia RigaFereou isatthenorthwest- and EleftheriouVenizelou (knownlocallyas angles tothemain thoroughfares are KKartali the towncentre towardsthehillsandatright Agiou Nikolaou.Heading northeastoutof precinct, anchored bythechurch atPlateia its sidestreets make upalively pedestrian Iasonos, DimitriadosandErmou.Ermou and lel toitare thecity’smainthoroughfares of its length,apedestrianarea; runningparal- studentslivenwhose uptheVolos café scene. city isalsohometotheUniversity of Thessaly, ouzeries, has aninvitingboardwalklinedwithtavernas, Sporades drawstravellers tothecity.Thetown thelureright, of thePelion Peninsula orthe notaholidaydestinationinitsown though terfront area is dotted withshadytrees and, ern shores of thePagasitikos Gulf.Thewa- Volos isalarge andbustlingcityonthenorth- pop 85,394 VOLOS popular withwalkers and cyclists. shops. Tembi, isalso 25kmnortheastof Larisa, outsouvenirsinvaders seek attheriverside inWWII.Thelatest totheGermans 480 BC and invaders, fromPersian KingXerxes in apathwayintoGreecehas been formerchants historythevalley cient times.Throughout and MtOssa, wassacred tothegodsinan- cut bytheRiver MtOlympus Piniosbetween The LARISA AROUND Papakyriazi 35) can buytickets atthe 250 Orientation politically mindedopponentsofthedecisiontouseEU-onlycrew. is scheduledtojointheexpeditionasaprecaution incaseofdemonstrationsordisruptionsby from shore. Interestingly, becauseTurkey isnotyetamemberoftheEU,Greek securityvessel seaway. Doingtherowingwillbe50oarsmenfromEU,sailingonlybydaylight,andnever far Sea, passingpresent-day Turkey, Georgia andRussiaalongtheway. Pelion Peninsula. The with aram-bowedvessel calledthe A famousGreek myth tells ofJason’squestfortheGoldenFleeceandhissubsequentjourney ARGONAUTS THE & JASON Vale ofTembi HSAY • rudLrs THESSALY ••AroundLarisa In thesummerof2008areplica version ofthe Β smallhotels, churches andcafés.The O opposite the town hall. ΛΟΣ , ahistoricalandscenicvalley OSE office Argos wasbuilttosailfromVolos(Ancient Iolkos)toColchisontheBlack (

% 24105 90239; Argos, constructed of wood taken fromtheforests constructed ofwoodtaken ofthe ad maps. and ofEnglishtitles,newspapers 223) Hasagoodcollection Network ACCESS INTERNET Hospital Volos General police Tourist EMERGENCY Books Papasotiriou BOOKSHOPS Information preciate thepublic carparkat the quay. information centre. Ifyouhave acar,you’llap- opposite thetourist along GrigoriouLambraki, a comprehensive collection of area finds.Es- 1;admission €2; 25285; Athanasaki The excellent 8am-8pmmid-Sep–mid-Apr; Apr–mid-Sep, &Sekeri; Lambraki cnr Grigoriou of Association &Hotels’ Volos InformationCentre INFORMATION TOURIST church. Nikolaos Post office POST nafton and Iasonos Sts. There are bankswithATMs several onArgo- MONEY also refer tothestreet namefor28Octovriou as Alexandras. Plo Peninsula. Pelion bus, trainandferry schedulesalongwithtraveltips forthe this modernfacilityhashotelinformation,town mapsand opposite thebusstation.Thehelpfulmultilingual staffat largest internet café. 134) Nearthe Archaeological Museum. Sights Argos issettosailalongthissameancient ( % (cnr Dimitriados &Agiou Nikolaou)NearAgios (cnrDimitriados ( ( 24210 30260;Iasonos41; % % Archaeological Museum Archaeological 24210 20273;www.travel-pelion.gr; 24210 76987; 28 Octovriou 179)Locals 24210 76987;28Octovriou ( % ( % 24210 76210; Dimitriados 24210 76210;Dimitriados 24210 72421; Polymeri 24210 72421;Polymeri h h 8am-9pm mid- lonelyplanet.com 8.30am-3pm) h pi 24hr) Volos’

( % houses houses ) Just 24210 lonelyplanet.com 0 400 m VOLOS 0 0.2 miles To (4km); P Zagora (44km) a p a d i a R EATING ENTERTAINMENT m i Train ga a Apostolis Restaurant...... 15 C2 Astra Bouzouki...... 24 A1 Station n u Fe t o re 24 i M k K o Ekonomou O Papous...... 16 D1 Summer Cinema...... 25 D3 ia o u ) ik n u

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Volos Palace Hotel...... 14 B1 To Sporades House To

(45km) (5km) CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE intimate house-museum thatalsofeatures intimate house-museum 25 logical Museum has15spotlessroomswith logical Museum no-frills waterfront hotel neartheArchaeo- Tzanou 1;s/d€29/35; west coastof thePelion Peninsula. Thebuses side byatKato Gatzea,17kmaway,onthe catch weekend noise. traffic balcony. Street-side will rooms,however, Roussas Hotel BUDGET Sleeping café complete withmuseum and shop. grinding millsandmassive kilnsondisplay, withbrick-makingmachinery, cal museum restored plantopenedasahandsomehistori- part of theculturalfabricof Volos.In2006,the the Tsalapatas Rooftile andBrickworkswas Feb) 10am-5pm16Oct–28 Oct, admission€3; South Gate; bytheUniversityis maintained of Thessaly. ings aroundthePelion Peninsula. Themuseum murals thatwere carefully removed frombuild- paintings by free; Centre historian KitsosMakris, the painted grave pecially impressive isthelarge collectionof 252 Hellenistic site of Dimitrias. Housing thesuperbcollectionof late folkart The nearest campinggroundstoVolosare Tsalapatas Brickworks Museum Tsalapatas Brickworks table just waiting tochatwith you. remember, justasyou’re tryingtoorderdinnerin Greek, there’s probablyaGreek atthenext Anastasiaexplains, ‘istogetthemforget allthebadEnglishthey’veficult part,’ acquired.’ So anyone –learninga languageisn’teasy.Herstudentsonly speakEnglishattheschool.‘The dif- potential cameout!NowsheisdoingaPhD at Edinburgh inBiology.Iamvery proudofher.’ aged toenter medicalschool. ‘Shecametotheschool,andshereally gained confidence. Allher their studies.’ of therelationship Ihave withmystudents,whichIoften wellafter keep they’ve completed returned theschool.‘Icontinue todowhatIbecause to herhometownin1995andstarted ity,’ saysAnastasia,aVolosnative whohaslived intheUKforseveral and worked years. She ceilinged buildinginthecitycentre. Greek Englishteacher, Anastasia,toopen herownsmallschoolinVolos,acharminghigh- featureEnglish, regardless oftheirability.This wonderful oftheGreek character convincedone and thatEnglishisnearthetopoftheirlist(after Greek!). Norare Greeks shyaboutspeaking You canworkonyourGreek allyouwant,butmaydiscover thatmany Greeks love language, FIXED ENGLISH BROKEN h HSAY • rudLrs THESSALY ••AroundLarisa ‘I wantthemtothinkforthemselves andtoappreciate thechance tostudyabroad.’Butask She recalls onestudent,atimidgirl namedIriniwhowanted but never tobeadoctor man- ‘I wanted toteach thewayIwish,inasmallestablishment where thestudentwasprior-

( % 8.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-2pmSun) 8.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri, 24210 37119; Afendouli/Kitsou Makri 38; admission 38;admission Makri 24210 37119;Afendouli/Kitsou

Theophilos Hatzimichael Theophilos ( % stelae a 24210 21732;fax22987;Iatrou h ) Thissmallandfriendly (pillars) From1926until1975, 10am-6pm Wed-Mon 1 Mar–15 10am-6pm Wed-Mon1Mar–15 Kitsos Makris Folk Art FolkArt Makris Kitsos

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( % , mostly small , mostlysmall 24210 29844; is an isan bour andisequalin most respects. for thePelion Peninsula. the bay.Aninformationdeskhastravel tips cony, alongwithamodernlobbybarfacing waterfront Park hasstylishroomswithbal- 2; s/d/trinclbreakfast €75/120/135; rounded bywaterfront cafésandtavernas. the Aegli is100mfromtheport,andsur- of all, appointed and spaciousrooms.Best touches extend fromthelobbytowell- 24; s/dinclbreakfast €60/80; busy Iasonos St. est roomsare towardsthefront,awayfrom floors, desksandsmallbathtubs.Thequiet- front hotels. Largeroomsfeature wooden Alexandros isoneof thebest-value water- Topali 13;s/d/tr€45/65/80; Alexandros Hotel MIDRANGE €5.50/3.60) ( plan tocomeinJulyorAugust. minimarket andbeach bar. Book aheadifyou managed facilitywithadecentrestaurant, 22720; campsitesperadult/tent€5.50/3.60) Fig Camping Tree Sikia passbothgrounds. to MiliesandPlatanias €90/120/140/175; ace.gr; cnrXenofontos&Thrakon;s/d/tr/steinclbreakfast % Park Hotel Aegli Hotel Volos Palace Hotel 24230 22267;fax22492;campsitesperadult/tent shares beach asitsneigh- thesame Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

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24210 36511;fax28645;Deligiorgi 24210 24471; www.aegli.gr; Argonafton 24210 24471;www.aegli.gr;Argonafton ( %

( % 24210 31221;fax31224; a

( % a 24210 76501;www.volospal The well-maintained Thewell-maintained ) 24230 22279;fax ) SwankArtDeco a ) Thenewand Theupmarket ) Camping Hellas Camping isawell-

85; mezedhes€1.50-6) lonelyplanet.com former ship captain’s former ship captain’s mementos. seafaring dining room,decorated with theowner’sand (mixed veggies). Thekitchen adjoinsthecosy dishes like chicken and with orzopasta is knownforgood variationsontraditional near Agios Nikolaoschurch, OHaliabalias 10) about €10. plate of fresh mackerel, andwinecosts salad mezedhes andfreshfor seafood grilledfish. A €4-11) playgroundopposite.romp atthesandy redsautéed peppers, andthenletthechildren forgrilledcalamariand front eatery atsunset 8.50) oven. baked inatraditionalwood-firedis potatoes this popularstudenthang-out.Thespeciality beamed ceilingslendplentyof atmosphere to pork sausages), Typical mezedhesinclude a shamenottoeatanddrinkasthelocalsdo. theboxedGreece (see text, above Since Volosisconsidered the Eating views. sea decorated, andmosthave balcony sweeping The capaciousroomshere are handsomely Riga Fereou, just200mfromthewaterfront. luxurious VolosPalace Hotel facesPlateia calamari. Tucked awayonapedestriansidestreet O Haliabalias Iolkos Ouzerie Sarris TavernaSarris O KyklosTsipouradiko Volos isfamousthroughoutGreece forthequalityandquantity(over 500)ofits TSIPOURADHIKA THE tsipouradhika stand up.Tryanyoneofthesefaves: one roundofmezedhes or dilute itwithwater ifyouprefer orwantit tolastalittlelonger. itweaker, Whenyou’ve finished drink tinybottlesof tsipouradhiko „ „ „ „ „ Localfamiliesheadforthisreliable water- Ouzerie Dimitrouka ( Ouzerie Dimitrouka p243 Taverna Bakaliarakia ( p270 Taverna Diachroniko( p263 Taverna OPetros ( p257 O KyklosTsipouradiko ( below Cometothisbustlingandbreezy Iolkos

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THESSALY ••AroundLarisa ( % ohtapodi % Flagstonefloors andwood- 24210 20234;Orpheos8;mains€4.50- 24210 35227; Argonafton 32;mains 24210 35227;Argonafton 24210 33227; Kanari 1;mains€4- 24210 33227;Kanari tsipouro, (

% (octopus)andfried 24210 20872; Mikrasiaton 24210 20872;Mikrasiaton ) spetsofaï ) tsipouro, adistilledspiritthat’ssimilartoouzobutisbitstronger. Youcan ) ) ouzerie ),itwouldbe ) you just keep ordering untilyou’ve youjustkeep hadyourfillorcan’t (stewed capital of capital briam

mezedhes €5-10) district, Balthassar isapopular beer-and-district, Balthassar takeaway lunchesfortheferry to takeaway the Sporades. 15; mains€3-5)Traditionaleateryoppositethequay,with hip café offers free wi-fi and cold drinks. 2am; in your hand. at yourfeet andacooldrinkor icedcoffee this breezy outdoor summercaféputsgravel Near thewestern edge of Plateia Yeoryiou, nightly. changes mezedhes hang-out,where themusictheme urb 4kmsouthwestfromthe city centre. outdoor clubsatAlykes, abreezy beach sub- summer, much of theactionmoves tothe numerous musicbars and of KoumoundourouandErmou,there are waiting to be discovered. a numberof goodmusicanddrinkingdives factory buildingsandnarrowalleysthere are known asthePalaia. theconverted Between oldindustrialdistrict head fortherevitalised ofFor anight music,drinkinganddancing, filledwithwalnutsoralmonds; €4 often per kilogram). sugarontopand sweetswithconfectioner’s (jelly-like called very traditionalandall-naturalconfection 135)Charmingshopwithonlyoneitemforsale:a Gazi Ekonomou OPapous Apostolis Restaurant Dikn & Entertainment & Drinking Flo Café Flo Café Aroma Café Bar Balthassar In thedowntownarea, aroundthecorner Other goodoptions: ai ( ouzerie ) Attheendof thewaterfront, this %

( Intheheartof Volos’café % 24210 39283; Argonafton 63; 24210 39283;Argonafton

24210 24568;Filellinon 2;snacks€2-4) ( (strictly speaking, calleda speaking, (strictly % ( ( % % 6949383200; Oikonomaki 76; 6949383200; Oikonomaki 24210 34606;Anthimou 24210 26973; Argonafton 24210 26973;Argonafton ouzeries ouzeries . Inthe loukoumi h and 8am- 253

CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE ( €2-5) % Travel Travel and informationare available from 2daily Palio Trikeri, issporadic.Tickets however, fromVolos toTrikeri and Alonnisos. Service (Skopelos),SkopelosTownand thos, Glossa €19.50 1daily In summerthere are dailyhydrofoils toSkia- HYDROFOIL 4hr €16.50 Skopelos Town 3½hr 2½hr Skiathos Glossa (Skopelos) €15 Alonnisos 4hr 2 Destination Duration €19.50 Ferries fromVolostotheSporades Fare 2 Frequency daily ( daily You canbuyferry tickets from daily). daily) andIoannina(€20.30,five hours, three nine daily),Trikala(€11.80,2½hours, four (€15.80,2½hours,10 daily),Thessaloniki (€4.80,onehour, 4½ hours, 11daily),Larisa & Almyrou) From the BUS Getting There&Away District. 94600; Giannitson29;admission€6.50) ner of Kartali, orthe €6.50) cinema don’t bothershowingupbefore midnight. live bouzoukimusic,drinksanddancing,but 254 FERRY % Astra Bouzouki Astra For movies, check outtheVolos aoa(i ai) ½r 37 2daily 4-5daily 12daily €3.70 9daily €2.40 4daily €1.50 1½hr 1hr10min €1.30 €3.90 50min 45min Zagora (via Hania) 1½hr Vyzitsa (viaMilies) Tsangarada 1½hr 3hr Trikeri Platanias 2hr (viaArgalasti andHorto) Milina (viaPortaria) €4.40 Nera Kala €6.50 €5.50 2 2 1-2 daily daily daily go oni 2r €5.70 2hr Agios Ioannis Destination Duration BUSES FROMVOLOSTOTHEPELION PENINSULA Fare Frequency 24210 39299; Argonafton 34; 24210 39299;Argonafton /fax 24210 23415; Argonafton 33) /fax 2421023415;Argonafton IntheoldPalaia district,Astra features series nearthewaterfront atthecor- series HSAY • rudVls THESSALY ••AroundVolos (

( %

% ( % , buses departforAthens(€23.50, , buses 24210 39299; Argonafton 34; 24210 39299;Argonafton /fax 24210 23415; Argonafton 33) /fax 2421023415;Argonafton bus station 24210 29946; Dimitriados 263;admission24210 29946;Dimitriados

( % 24210 20004;Pagathon 38;drinks ( % Village Cinema Village h 24210 24056;cnrZachou 7am-10pm). intheoldPalaia and Sporades Travel h

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fax 24210 32360; Argonafton 41) fax 2421032360;Argonafton Papadiamanti, about 200mnorthwestof The second is The second traces of neatlyarranged streets andhouses. complete with Neolithic site (4800–4500BC) 85960; admissionfree; Thefirst is inThessaly. sation cal sites, bothdatingfromearlyGreek civili- Just westof Volosare twomajor archaeologi- VOLOS AROUND ( canberentedCars from Around Getting three daily). hours, three daily;normal€7.10,three hours, –Intercity €20.20,2½ (bothviaLarisa saloniki normal €12.80,sixhours, sixdaily)andThes- ens (Intercity €23.90,five hours, three daily; (€2.10,onehour).TrainsruntoAth- to Larisa 2-3daily Plateia RigaFereou. There are 15trainsdaily €32.50 The Volos 2-3daily TRAIN 2¼hr €27.50 Skopelos Town 1¼hr Skiathos 1¾hr Glossa (Skopelos) €25 Alonnisos 2½hr 2-3 Frequency Fare Destination Duration €32.50 Hydrofoils fromVolostotheSporades 2-3 daily daily of Volos.Itconsistsof range, amountain of The Pelion Peninsula liestotheeastandsouth PENINSULA PELION Paleolithic hunter-gatherer ancestors. much larger of populationsthanthose their plex agrariancommunitiesthatcouldsustain architecture atbothsites typifiesthecom- The oldest acropolisinGreece (6000BC). free; % h 24210 70009;Iolkou93b) 8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun)

train station Sesklo Sesklo h 8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun)

and ( % ( , withremains of the Π . % 24210 95172;admission 2 daily H Avis 24210 24056) ΛΙΟΝ Nikolaos lonelyplanet.com

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, alate Pappas ΟΡΟΣ ison 24210 available from Pagasitikos Gulf.Theinterior isagreen won- Thegentler westernsea. flankcoilsroundthe thatplungeof dramaticallyintothe cliffs high The largely inaccessibleeastern flankconsists which peakisMtPliassidi(1651m). thehighest lonelyplanet.com (Hidden Schools). Like otherremote areas in inmaintaining was instrumental in Europe. TheOrthodox church atthetime silk andwoolwere exported tomany places ments, culture andtheeconomy flourished; of villages. remote mountain Inthese settle- townswereern coastal abandoned infavour parts of thePelion, andasaresult thewest- into theinaccessiblecentraland eastern medicine. of thegroup,wasrenowned forhisskillin bates, Chiron, considered however; thewisest the countryside. Notallwere randomrepro- deflowering virgins andgenerally rippingup indrinkingwine, whotookdelight half-horse, kentavri In mythologythePelion wasinhabited by spetsofaï (bean soup), herbs.Localspecialitiesinclude tain regional cooking,often flavoured withmoun- pricey. ThePelion hasanenduringtraditionof sions. Theyare wonderfulplaces,butare often as are traditionalmansionsknowninGreek most Greek bookshops. Road Editions (1:50,000) guideisthedetailed other useful ( walks.com/Pilion_bk.html) lish, villages. bookletinEng- Adetailed seaside key and pathways)connectmostmountain frequently restored from onevillage toanother. Anetworkof long agowalkingwassimplyhowpeoplewent winding cobbledpaths. overhanging balconies,grey slate roofs and with houses by whitewashed, half-timbered away inthisprofuse foliage are characterised reach of thelight day.Thevillages tucked oak, walnut,eucalyptusandbeech trees to wild olive groves and forests of chestnut, horse derland where trees heavy withfruitvie History % The Turkishoccupationdidnot extend Many of inthePelion theplacestostay The Pelion isahikingmeccatoday,but arhontika, 24260 49086,6937156780) Walks inthe Pelion () – creatures, half-man and (centaurs) –creatures, half-man and tastefully converted intopen- tyropsomo kouneli stifadho Marengo Publishers Marengo Map of MtPilion, THESSALY ••Pelion Peninsula kalderimia and fromthe (cheese bread). (cheese by Lance Chilton,is byLance inMouressi. The (rabbitstew), (cobbleddon- (www.marengo available in Kryfa Scholia Old SilkStore

museum thatwasoncehometonativemuseum artist the thick stonewallshere. isa The museum ‘secret’ water that’sbuilt intooneof fountain Sep, 10am-5pmOct-May) Sep, 99505; admission€2; 50 stone water fountains. cobblestone trailsanddirtpaths leadtoover bled mainstreet of 17Martios 1878.Above it, central square isabout 150malongthecob- minus andcarparkmarktheentrance. The mint andother local herbs. a great placetoshop for camomile, oregano, the littlechurch of invites kidstoexplore, and amarblefountain by avery oldplanetree withahollowthat also themostvisited. Thesquare isanchored one of theloveliest of thePelion villages, and potted geraniums, hydrangeas Itis androses. are threaded withsteep stairs crowded with another. thewhitewashed Upclose, structures pression thattheyare stacked ontopof one give thetraditionalhouses theim- distance, ofaptly calledtheBalcony Pelion. Froma Clinging toamountainside, Makrinitsa is pop 650 MAKRINITSA Makrinitsa. to frescoes. Aforktotheleftinvillage leads century east of Volos.Truetoform,its visions. personal upstairs wallmuralsspeakof localscenesand Pelion region tradingfoodformurals.The Theofilos (1866–1934),whowandered the sion free; Museum Theofilos of Makrinitsa, theroadclimbs6kmtovillage Taking thenortheastern route fromVolosto ΒΟΛΟΣ MAKRINITSA TO VOLOS Pelion Northwest ( the Volosbusstation opposite tothevillagesBuses of thePelion leave from Getting There&Away dependence. for ideasthatculminated intheWarof In- Greece, thePelion becameaspawningground splendid oldplanetree, andthelittle13th- Stop bythe Portaria The village isapedestrianzone;bus ter- Ano Volos h

ΠΡΟΣ Church of Panagia of Portaria Church ofPanagia , thenextvillage, is12kmnorth- 8am-3pm Tue-Sun) , where you’llfindthedelightful ΜΑΚΡΙΝΙΤΣΑ

ΜΑΚΡΙΝΙΤΣΑ Museum of Folk Art ofFolk Art Museum

h ( % to see ifyou canfindthe tosee Agia Panagia Agia 10am-2pm, 6-9pmTue-Sun Jun- 24210 47340; Anakasia; admis- 24210 47340;Anakasia; . Thisisamansion . Makrinitsa is ). plateia

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255 CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE views over thevillage square, this eight-room, dora-pelion.com; s/d/trinclbreakfast from€35/45/60) and have a seat. the mainsquare; yourfavourite choose view ends. There are goodcafésaround several generally increase by50%onwinter week- 200m of thetownsquare. Priceslisted here There are hotels anddomatiawithin several Eating & Sleeping made jewellery and pottery. ( Anearbyshop, 25m tothemuseum. steps leading downfromthe of oldisproudlyonview.Take thewinding restored 1844mansionwhere theMakrinitsa 256 % (48km) To Larisa Dimini PELION PENINSULA (115km) To Lamia Arhontiko Theodora Theodora Arhontiko E75 24280 99228; HSAY • einPnnua THESSALY ••Pelion Peninsula Anakasia Makrinitsa Volos Minas Agios Ano Volos Kato Lehonia h CapeAlogoporos Portaria Agria Pourianos Platanidia Mt Pliassidi 10am-8pm) Stavros (1651m) ( Pagasitikos % Drakia Malaki Gulf Ano Lehonia 24280 99179;www.theo Vlasios Agios Hania Gatzea , features locally Pouri Alogoporos Zagora Trikeri (Nisos) Trikeri Agia Kyriaki Kato Palio Agriolefkes plateia Kissos Saranda Agia Mouressi Vyzitsa Afissos Anilio Horefto Mt Pelion (1455m) about Milies With Agios Ioannis Ilios Tsangarada Damouhari Fakistra

Milina Peninsula Pelion Mylopotamos the most of strictly localproduceand meat eatery, theA-Bbasic out-of-the-way makes herbs. withrice stuffed locally madesausage and the village church. specialityisa Ahouse This friendlyhole-in-the-wallisjust above countryside. surrounding balconied roomsoverlooking the coming Kentavros, withlarge andspotless flowerpots asyouclimbthesteps tothewel- r from€45) the canopied beds. offers excellentvalue,withbonuspointsfor traditionally styledandwelcomingmansion Xinovrisi Horto Lambinou Taverna A-B Taverna Leonides Kentavros Hotel Kentavros Siki Lafkos Platanias You’llhave pastafew tosqueeze Evia Potistika Promyri

( % Skiathos

Mortias ( Strait % Katigiorgis

24280 99355;mains€4-8.50) ( A EGN % 10km 5miles 0 0 24280 99075;fax90085; S EA 24280 99071;mains€4-7.50) Skiathos lonelyplanet.com To Skopelos(8km); Skiathos Alonnisos (25km) Town plateia Tsoungria and A

ridge pathfromthe central square. wine sauce favouriteand amountain –rabbit inred in disheslike roastporkinwine,lambsoup lonelyplanet.com founded in 1916 and has been instrumen- founded in 1916andhas been agricultural cooperative was cessful Zagora as othervillages inthearea. Thevery suc- testifies, and isnotasdependentontourism lage, astheapproach along themainroad isalong,ramblingvil- for export.Zagora dustry in1850,thetownproduced finesilk of Greece. ruinedthesilkin- Untilablight fruit-growing centre –it’stheapplecapital the largest of thePelion villages andamajor chestnut trees toajunctionleading From Hania, theroadzigzagsdownthrough ZAGORA Pelion Northeast lifts. two track, there are three downhillskirunsand March. Inadditiontoa5kmcross-country permitting, fromlate Decembertomid- sports twoskilodges andisopen,snowfall €10/16) fkes uphill fromhere istheskiresort of Aegean andthePagastikos Gulf.About 3km ern village of road continuesanother15kmtothemod- route, the onthemainVolos–Zagora Back ΜΑΚΡΙΝΙΤΣΑ HANIA TO MAKRINITSA steps bythevillagekiosk in Portaria. Downthe €4-9) Great formountain stewsandlambgrills. Taverna Skalakia thecentral s/d€40/50)Over Makrinitsa; Achilles Hotel downstairs, includedinthe room rate. you canwake uptoanexcellentbreakfast andwovenlace curtains rugs.Thebestpart: traditionally furnished withfour-poster beds, hotel rooms(€40to€55),each witheight ingredients. alsodoublesasasmall Kritsa tomato andpeppers, madeonlywithlocal likemenu includesappetisers grilledfeta, greens OwnerEleniKaraïskou’s withegg. vourites like slow-roasted lamb,orroasted creative Pelionfamily taverna serving fa- the Portaria mains€4-16) Portaria; www.hotel-kritsa.gr; ad comfortable. and o Also recommended:

( % . Thissmallresort 1350m) (elevation 24280 73719; lift day passes per weekday/weekend daypassesperweekday/weekend 24280 73719;lift ΖΑΓΟΡΑ Kritsa Hotel Restaurant Hotel Kritsa . Followthesigns150malong ( plateia %

Hania ΠΡΟΣ THESSALY ••Pelion Peninsula ( % 24280 99177;fax99986; 24280 99212; Portaria; mains 24280 99212;Portaria; , withviewstoboththe tofindthiswelcoming

ΧΑΝΙΑ plateia, (

% 24280 99121; Head to to Head simple Agriole- Zagora , Independence heroRigasFereos. Itwasonce than 1kmoff themainroad,isbuilton lage fare, includingseveral veggie dishes. tsipouro shotof withacomplimentary you canstart O Petros of grillsand oven-ready dishes; and Kiriazis square Agios of Georgios: Zagora’s reference toZagora’s agricultural roots. Anemella, which isGreek forsilkworm–a There’s amellowmusiccafénextdoorcalled like long beds,bigshowers andsatellite TV. fine traditionaldécorwithmoderntouches breakfast from€70/100; Takeroses. your pick. toincludegardenias,hydrangeas and seem Association, favourite whose flowers would pension ismanaged bythelocalWomen’s each of thefive simplyfurnishedrooms.The stead, the nameof alocalflowerdesignates mansion onthemain find roomnumbers atthisrefurbished Pelion 23460; Zagora;rinclbreakfast €60) Dhrakopoulou Arhontiko Eating & Sleeping Damouhari. neighbour cultural village of The mainroadcontinuesontotheagri- resortdown tothecoastal of Agios Ioannis. sos, a6kmroadleadspastAgios Dimitrios sidered the finestinthePelion. FromKis- Marina ChurchofAgia steep terraces surroundingthe18th-century in the Pelion. route isoneof themostscenicallyspectacular of aseries villagesthrough toTsangarada. This domatia and tavernas. toasmallbaywithfewa steep mountainside remote andlaid-back the turn-off to Horefto. the rebellious isjustpass Greeks. Themuseum Turks whobannedschools of anysortamong childrentaught insecret, hiddenfromthe home toasmallclassroomwhere alonepriest h economy inthe village region. agricultural inpromotingasustainable tal Two goodtavernas occupythemain Stamou Arhontiko The flower-draped village of With yourowntransport,youcanreach the Stop bythe Back at the road, the right turntakes attheroad,right you Back 10am-2.30pm &5.30-9pm)

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(distilled spirit) before vil- sampling ( % 24260 22993;mains€4.50-7) 24260 23666;mains€4.50-7) Elliniko Museum p Mouressi

, whose frescoes are, whose con- ( % Pouri )

manages tocombine ( plateia , dedicated toWarof % 24260 23880;d/steincl 24260 23566;fax , which spillsdown Don’texpectto and its seaside anditsseaside of Zagora. In- of Zagora. , withplenty

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257 CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE www.holidays-in-pelion.gr) hiking tours, water riding, sportsandhorse the cobbled pathwaysand can organise small and motorbike rental. Itoffers trailmapsof mation about accommodationaswell ascar village boardwalk, isagoodsourceof infor- Nero) of town. beaches liejustnorth(Plaka)andsouth(Papa tavernas linethe waterfront, andtwosandy beaches are very good.Smallhotels andbusy but there’s stillplentyof room,andthenearby nis isnowthebusiestof theeastern resorts, resort coastal The once-sleepy of Agios Ioan- pop 659 IOANNIS AGIOS greens andcheese). favourite, plenty of olive local oil),includingatasty ( fish grillsandagoodvarietyof veggie dishes O Petros road). by 250m pathbringsyoutothebeach (1kmaway bou sitsonahillsideoverlooking A thesea. Mari-in 2007,thewelcomingandefficient hotel.gr; s/d/ste€48/65/100; beach asyou enter Horefto. reliable Hagiati goodvalue. It’sopposite the rooms, balconiesandoverhead fansmake the hagiati.htm; s/d€40/50; caravans. to ground atthemainbeach caters mostly adult/tent €5/3) ground Camping Eating & Sleeping club. to bothanearbytaverna and weekend-only beachfortable domatiaavailable, inaddition is 2kmsouth,withthree simpleandcom- village. Pretty andisolated northandsouthofing distance, themain but more-isolated beaches are withinwalk- calls.Themainbeach isquitehouse decent, the sickindayswhendoctors stillmade home of Chiron,aroving whohealed beach.and alongsandy It’salsothemythical Horefto isalow-key resort withpalmtrees kilometresEight downhillfromZagora, HOREFTO 258 ladhera Hotel Hagiati Hotel Les Hirondelles Travel Agency Agency Travel Les Hirondelles Try thefriendlyandalwaysreliable Hotel Maribou HSAY • einPnnua THESSALY ••Pelion Peninsula ( –fastingfood;baked orstewed with % ΧΟΡΕΥΤΟ hortopites 24260 23585;mains€4-7.50) Shaded byplanetrees, thisbasic ( %

( ΑΓΙΟΣ ( % % p 24260 22405;www.pelion.com.gr/ 24260 34885;campsitesper , inthemiddleof the (piesmadewithwild ) S 24260 23710;www.marabou pacious tile-and-wood pai

ΙΩ Agia Saranda Agia A ΝΝΗΣ ( % ) Renovated , featuring 24260 31181; Taverna beach first touristhotel, amodestsix-roomaffair. backto1937,whenitwasthevillage’s goes value, withalobbybaroppositethebeach. incl breakfast €35/45; of its20balconiedrooms. viewsfrom14 and marbletouches, andsea modern, well-appointed roomswithwood hotel intown,theswankSofokles features .com; s/dinclbreakfast from€60/90; the sea. onavine-shaded terrace overlookingserved pastel-tonedcomfortable rooms.Breakfast is back fromthestreet, andfeatures large and €50/70/80; shuttered roomsoverlook thesea. Today, 22traditionallyfurnished, wooden- s/d€50/60; -kentrikons.gr; three apartmentsthathave kitchenettes. tidyandcharming.light, Families willlike the front leadstothiswelcominggem. Roomsare from €25/30/45; other times. rates quoted here todropbyabout 25%at JulyandAugust You canexpectthehigher Sleeping like ferings, dailystand-bys youcan always sample catch. Inadditiontotheusual by-the-kiloof- onlytheir own local reputation for serving The owners of are Poseidonas proud of their and lambgrills. from traditionaloven-ready dishes, fresh fish kritama dishes andgoodbreakfasts. Trytheunusual excellentGreek this familytaverna serves 49444; mains€4-7) Taverna Ammoudia Orea Paniou Apartments Harikeleia Kelly Hotel south ofthewaterfront. just camp sitesperadult/tent€5/5)Basicandpine-shaded, ground Camping Eating oppositePapa Nerobeach. satellite TV, s/d/tr/f from€40/60/80/100; excursions. kayakingandmountain-biking boating, sea Taverna Poseidonas Sofokles Hotel Kentrikon Hotel Pension Katerina Also recommended: Anesis Hotel mousakas (tomatoes with sea herbs),orchoose withsea (tomatoes a ( % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ) Thevery welcomingAnesisisset a

Attheendof Papa Nerobeach, ( 24260 31231; www.hotel-kelly.gr; s/d 24260 31231;www.hotel-kelly.gr; androasted lamb. % ( ) ( % Anarrowlaneoff thewater- % a ( (

/fax 2426031123;s/dinclbreakfast % % 24260 31319;fax32159; 24260 31230;www.sofokleshotel ) Friendly, modernandgood ) Friendly, ( pais 24260 31232;www.bungalows % 24260 31159,6945762183;s/d/f

pa ( % 24260 31222;mains€4-8) 24260 32126;fax as ( % ) Kitchenettes and ) Kitchenettes 24260 31730; Thenewest Thisplace ) )

service. Finditupstairs, onthewaterfront. service. place hasexcellent,fresh pizzaandfriendly local taverna. arrange cookinglessonsinthekitchen of a organise guidedwalksinthe Pelion andeven 49086), which cantake care of travel details, after theowner-ship first captain’s wife. drink intheKleopatra Miramarbar,named nautical antiquesinthelobby,or to have a stoptocheckin advance–however, outthe tomatoes andpeppers. tomatoes basics like orstuffed lambinlemonsauce upgenerous portionsof Greek tavernaserves Among thewaterfront tavernas, Apostolis Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com You cancount ontraditional taverna fare (with familyasatHotelated Damouhari. bythesame pis sion ishometoMulberryTravel ( homemade breakfast (€10)aswell.Thepen- whoofferstransplant JillSleeman, adaily It’sgracefullymanaged byBritishsetting. features traditional-styleroomsinagarden spare, this placeisaMouressi landmarkand tury neoclassicalbuildingwithpersonality to .pelionet.gr; Mouressi; d€65) Damouhari, thisplacehasviewsof thebay. ai above theminimarket. Friendly, cleanandcosy,thisdomatiasits Domatia Marika Sleeping &Eating main road,3kmnorthof Tsangarada. farming village of mouhari (2kmonthepath)islow-key Fakistra Just4kmsouthwestof Da- Beach. pointforabeautiful3km the starting finefrescoes. Damouhariisalso several tains grace). Thelittlechurch of from theexpression cording tolocallore, thevillage gotitsname the buildingsfrompassingpirate ships.Ac- swimming. Intheolddays,trees shielded a pebblebeach andprotected cove, perfect for to aramblinggrove of olive trees thatborders The picturesque hamletof Damouhari isnext ΝΤΑΜ MOURESSI & DAMOUHARI Akrogiali Apostolis Akrogiali Taverna Karagatsi Damouhari Hotel Old SilkStore Domatia Victoria Pizza Venezia ) OY Oneof twovery decentdomatiain ) ΧΑΡ Roomshere are often booked far

H & ( ( ( % % % (

% 24260 31093;pizza€7-8.50) 24260 49086,6937156780;www ( 24260 49475;s/d€40/50; Mouressi ΜΟΥΡΕΣΙ ( % ( % % ‘dos mouhari’ 24260 49841;Damouhari) Housed ina19th-cen- Housed 24260 49872;s/d€45/55; /fax 2426049840;r€85; 24260 31112;mains€5-9) Agios , nestled off the, nestledoff

Nikolaos THESSALY ••Pelion Peninsula % (give me Oper- walk 24260 This con- a to ) across from the post office. retsina are top-notch at thisroadsideeatery andlocal chini flowers, homemadepreserves Silk Store. and rich stews. It’s1kmfromMouressi’s Old mains €6-10.50) greens in season. taverna, known formeatstews, grillsandwild arhon tofindthiswell-regarded old-fashioned for thesmallsignonroadatPlateia Taxi- includes singing nightingales. the scenery,which, itornot,often believe put together agardenbreakfast worthyof and English owners, ChristosandClaire, pointed 19th-century mansion.TheGreek fitted roomsgracethisexquisite andwell-ap- carpets, slow-swirlingfansandantique-out- .com; Agia Paraskevi; s/dinclbreakfast €80/110) value anda quiet location. the familygardenandorchard, offering great balcony viewstothecoastissurroundedby friendly andtidy10-roompensionwithupper rodon.gr; Agia Paraskevi; s/d/trinclbreakfast €50/60/65) Mylopotamos. to ernas nearPlateia Paraskevis andontheway There are domatiaand roadsidetav- several Eating & Sleeping the post office. oldest inGreece. There isanATM nextto square tobeoneof issaid thelargest and of Plateia Paraskevis. Theplanetree inthis The busstops200mfromthecentralsquare of themainVolos–Milies–Tsangarada road. largest isAgia Paraskevi, which isjust north Stefanos Agios Paraskevi, communitiesofseparate spread-out village comprisingthefour in oakandplaneforests, isaramblingand (tsang-ah- Tsangarada pop 710 TSANGARADA €4-7.50) bytheownerof name.and caught thesame place hasexcellentfish grillscooked, served Down thelanefromKaragatsi, thismore basic the smallandpicturesque harbourbelow. fresh mezedhes),overlooking andtasty salads Paradisos Restaurant Paradisos Restaurant Taverna ToKalivi Lost UnicornHotel TonRodon Villa Taverna OVangelis Taverna Bastounis Followthelocalshere forgoodgrills Roastgoat, ΤΣΑΓΚΑΡ (

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% ( ( 24260 49578;mains€5-8) % % 24260 49930;www.lostunicorn 24260 49201;www.villaton 24260 49609;Mouressi; mains and tyropita, 24260 49207; Damouhari) 24260 49207;Damouhari) 24260 49209;Agia Paraskevi; rah A Agio Taxiarhes, Agia Taxiarhes, Agia Agio ΔΑ Agia Kyriaki Agia -dah), nestling stuffed zuc- stuffed Persian Persian

Look . The This

259 CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL ΜΗΛΙΕΣ

CENTRAL GREECE Nera beach as a base forexploringthePelion.as abase The be agreat alternative tocrowdedVolos road to Thessaly in1821,and touredThessaly the mountain who organised the revolutionary forcesin birthplace of AnthimosGazis(1761–1828), led toGreek independence. Itwas alsothe the intellectual andcultural awakening that (mih-lih- Milies pop 636 the picturesque villages of appleorchardsleads through on thewayto way alonghere, totheleft anotherturn-off a turn-offtotheleftfor Kala Nera,about22kmfromVolos,there is coast. crowded 22615; s/d€35/40; friendly lages, thisstretch of roadis a blessing. and narrowroadsof theeastern Pelion vil- nidia resorts turnleadstotheseaside ofright honia thetouristyvillagesthrough of From Volos,thewest-coastroadheadssouth VYZITSA & MILIES TO VOLOS Pelion West-Central There are alsoafew domatia available. and feta andplentyof localwineisabout €20. herbs,aplatelocal greens of withsea olives the outdoorterrace. calamarifortwo, Stuffed wine, nottomentiontheharbourviewfrom residents forthewell-prepared foodandgood Angelika gets athumbs-upfromlocalPelion apartments self-catering (from €90). of thesmallbayandbeyond,aswellthree rooms withwoodenfloors andclearviews village, Diakoumisfeatures spaciouscliff-side s/d/tr from€50/70/80; Diakoumis Rooms Eating & Sleeping from Tsangarada’s Agia Paraskevi. small pebblebeaches. It’s6kmalongtheroad outcrop, withanaturaltunnelconnectingtwo Scenic isdivided byarocky Mylopotamos MYLOPOTAMOS 260 MILIES & Taverna Angelika Further alongthecoastroad,justpast With yourowntransport, , ΒΥΖΙΤΣΑ and HSAY • einPnnua THESSALY ••Pelion Peninsula Malaki ΜΗΛΙΕΣ Agios Vlasios Agios Hotel Victoria Hotel Ano Lehonia , theonlydecentbeach onthis and pa ( Kato Gatzea Kato % ess pa ΜΥΛΟΠΟΤΑΜΟΣ ( % ) playedamajor rolein makes alovely detour. A 24260 49203;www.diakoumis.gr; . Aleftturnonabranch

) ( isjustopposite 24260 49588;mains€4-7.50) % ) Just500mbefore the Tsangarada 24230 22219;fax . After thetortuous Milies Milies Kala Nera Kala ΒΟΛΟΣ Agria and . Alittle , Vyzitsa. Kato Le- Kato

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police station, 50mfrom police station, the called café derives fromafamouschildren’s reader tumes. Nearby s/d/tr €60/75/95) wine, and roast sausages. dishes includingzucchini pie,porkchops in thisfriendlygrilloffersitsa, arange of local thecentralsquare ontheroadtoVyz- Beyond h road. Volos– Tsangarada bread) at thispopularbakery onthemain scrumptious of Miliesincludethetronomic highlights choices ineach village confirms the advice. eatinMilies’,andthenumberofin Vyzitsa, Locals willtell youtheruleof thumbis‘stay Eating & Sleeping use for visitors. ence, butitkeeps thingsmodernwithinternet books fromthetimeof theWarof Independ- h 6-9pm) seum Just 100mbeyondthecentralsquare, church withbeautiful16th-centuryfrescoes. ance and leadership. villages of thePelion inspiringlocalresist- floors, glass beamed ceilingsand stained Stoikos offers very goodvalue,with wood await your scraps. ple breakfast ontheterrace, where thecats asim- car park.Therusticcafénearbyserves check outthisvery friendlypensionnearthe roomswithviews, For basicbutcomfortable can Vyzitsa be pricey. As inmuch of thePelion, accommodationin Eating & Sleeping main parking area. nearthe up thecobbledpathbyThetisCafé, reach shadycentralsquare, Vyzitsa’s walk traditionalslate-roofedbetween To houses. lage of Vyzitsa. Itscobbled pathwayswind Just 2kmbeyondMiliesisthehandsomevil- pop 277 VYZITSA Hotel Stoikos Hotel Hotel Thetis Panorama Psistaria Anna NaEnaMilo On thecentralsquare is Korbas Bakery 9am-10pm) 10am-2.30pm; ( % houses adisplayofhouses localcraftsandcos- Anna Have anApple 24230 86602;admissionfree; ΒΥΖΙΤΣΑ Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Thenameof thiscrepe-and-jam ( tyropsomo Thewell-managed 16-room % i

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24230 261 CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE Police station EMERGENCY Information from Plateia RigaFereou. Othonos onthewestbankof theriver, 200m ison The busstation 700m tothetrainstation. as apedestrianprecinct andthenrunssouth main thoroughfare, Asklipiou, beginshere Fereou sitsonthesouthwestbank.Trikala’s northeast bank,andramblingPlateia Riga square of Plateia IroönPolytehniou isonthe rating them–theplanetree–shaded central scaped channel withanarrowbridge sepa- the twosquares, theriver ismore of a land- The River thetown.Near Litheosbisects Orientation west. resortsthe SouthPindosmountain tothe asagateway toa lively nightlife andserves tions hardlywarrantaspecialtrip,itboasts Whileprovincialfor buses. Trikala’sattrac- flows theRiver Litheos,andit’samajor hub whichbustling agriculturaltownthrough pius, thegodof healing.It’sanattractive and , andthereputed birthplaceof Ascle- It wasoriginallyTrikki,asmentionedby Karditsa between andKalambaka.Larisa, ( Trikala pop 49,809 TRIKALA kiosk inPlatanias. 5.30pm. Tickets atthedock canbepurchased at9.30amandreturnsPlatanias ataround €35/20). The100-passenger boatdeparts andtheislandoftanias Skiathos(adult/child ( end of August,anexcursion boat,the domatia. and beach, acampinggroundandfew tavernas key roots.There’s agoodsand-and-pebble in 2001,allowingittoreturn toitslow- stopped resort untilthehydrofoil service (plah-tah-nih- Platanias PLATANIAS leaving. you’re there, why and then explainingtoyourself Trikeri are explainingtolocalswhyyou’re sible aswell.ButthemainactivitiesonPalio domatia atthetaverna. Wild camping ispos- 262 left turn off the Larisa road,1kmfrom thetowncentre. turnofftheLarisa left % From roughly early June through tothe earlyJunethrough From roughly 24230 71273) HSAY • rkl THESSALY ••Trikala tree ΤΡΙΚΑΛΑ ( ΠΛΑΤΑΝΙΑΣ % , makes Pla- dailyrunsbetween -kah-lah) sits66kmwestof 24310 76100; Sidiras Merarhias) A 24310 76100; SidirasMerarhias) ahs ) wasapopular Africana

Dionysiou 13; s/dinclbreakfast €42/58) just eastof thefortress. It’safascinating area teresting istheoldTurkish quarter of h travel bookings andarea tours. travel bookings 24310 36130;Vironos37)Canhelpwithaccommodation, overhanging balconies.Another200mup of with narrowstreets andfineoldhouses remains of the Just before theturnforfortress are the square andlookforthesignpointingright. town. Walk400mupSarafifromthecentral Trikala rounding therestored Byzantine It isworthawanderuptothegardenssur- Sights Services Poulianiti Travel INFORMATION TOURIST Post office POST the river. Six banksringthesquares oneithersideof MONEY Web K-NET In Spot ACCESS INTERNET ajcn café. adjacent inthe tional furnishings. Breakfast isserved offers spaciousroomswithelegant andtradi- restored neoclassical hotel facingtheriver a Fereoulinion.com; PlateiaRiga 2;s/dinclbreakfast €40/55; rooms. Spartan next toPlateia RigaFereou, hassmalland bathroom €22/30) Palladion Hotel Sleeping ison 300m. Thestation your right. headsouthandfollowtheriverstation for mid-1990s withEUfunding.Fromthebus in architectthe same whobuilttheBlueMosque Tzami of ProfitisIlias the hillfromVarousi, you’llfind the €1.80; Hotel Divani Hotel Panellinio Hotel On theothersideof townis the İ ) 24hr) stanbul. Themosquewasrestoredstanbul. inthe Datingfrom1914,thiswelcoming and ( % h , builtinthe16thcenturybySinanPasha, (

. Anadjacentcafé-bar overlooks the % ( % 24310 76851; cnr Asklipiou & Garivaldi; perhr 24310 76851;cnrAsklipiou&Garivaldi; 24hr) (Sarafi 13) Just west of Plateia Riga Fereou. (Sarafi13)JustwestofPlateiaRiga 24310 74854;Asklipiou11;perhr€2; 24310 20739;Vyronos26;perhr€2.50) Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com . Trikala’sonlybudget option,

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% Sanctuary ofAsclepius Sanctuary ( %

( 24310 28091;Vyronos4;s/dwithout % 24310 27286; fax2431020519; 24310 73545;www.hotelpanel ( % 24310 36140;fax TheDivani . More in- Fortress of Fortress Koursoun Varousi Chapel , , a menu and winelistthat range across trict features amodernopenkitchen and addition toTrikala’s oldManavika dis- district; mains€4-8) district; specialises inmezedheswithatwist,likespecialises lonelyplanet.com te Mediterranean. the 32720; Hadzipetrou23; mains€8-15) snappy alleyway €4. at hamand grilledonions),abargaintatoes, the Ypsilanti 3;mains€3.50-8) less than€10 per head. horta where full of atable leanporksouvlaki, this busyeatery nearPlateia RigaFereou, 5; mains€3-6) souvlaki. laki, where you’llfind€1.50plates of sizzling eou about100mtothesmallerPlateia Kitri- cheap eats,headeastfromPlateia RigaFer- little streets tothenorthof 25Martiou. For find traditional river intheoldManavika district.You’ll northern endof Asklipiou andacrossthe The cafélife inTrikalaiscentred onthe Eating balcony and bathtub. It hassmartlyfurnished rooms,mostwith Plateia Kitrilaki isfriendlyandgoodvalue. butthisB-classversionaffairs, opposite hotels aroundGreece are usuallytop-end cellent salads cellent salads and grills. upex- snacks)serves ouzoandlight serves Peri YefseonPeri Restaurant Taverna Diachroniko Taverna Palia Istoria Karthoutsos Kebob eadcoi 1h €.0 1-2daily €4.40 4daily 1½hr €15.50 6 Volos 2hr €15 3½hr Thessaloniki 1¼hr Pertouli €11.80 Neraidochori €4.10 4 1-2 1hr Larisa 4hr Lamia 2hr daily 20 €5.30 30min Kalambaka €1.90 €8 8 Ioannina 3½hr Elati 1hr half-hourly 2 €12.30 Delphi (viaAmfissa) Frequency Athens 4½hr €2.90 Fare daily 8 €22 Destination Duration daily daily 1-2 TRIKALA FROM BUSES daily daily daily daily feta psiti (wild greens), costs feta andcoldbeer It’s worth waiting for a table at It’sworthwaitingforatable (baked po- feta withtomatoes, Smallandtraditional,this THESSALY ••AroundTrikala kafeneia tsipouradhiko ( %

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(All AboutTaste; are mostly inthe 24310 21480; Manavika 24310 21480;Manavika Thisupscale % (aplacethat 24319 77627;

% 24310 minutes, eight daily), Larisa (€3.30,one daily),Larisa minutes, eight there are trainstoKalambaka (€1.20,20 narrow passageways andoutdoortablesnarrow passageways Manavika district,athree-block mazeof Church of Porta Panagia Church ofPorta more attractive wilderness areas. gorgespectacular leadinginto oneof Greece’s Pyli, which means‘gate’ –justwestof Pyliisa About 18kmfromTrikala isthevillage of Pyli TRIKALA AROUND daily). two (€8.40,2½hours,two daily)andThessaloniki hours, twodaily;normal€10.60,five hours, hour, fourdaily),Athens(Intercity €20,four From Trikala N I A R T ( departfromTrikala’s Buses BUS Getting There&Away h locals to Greek andsnacks.Forauthentic drinks, coldbeer under thestripedawningforgoodcoffee, small crammed withtavernas, lamp-litmusicbars, for drinks,mezedhes crosslipiou, thenafter thebridge midnight uponcoffee alongAsk- tobetank seems thetrendOn weekend nights, inTrikala Entertainment & Drinking % At thegorge’s entranceisthe13th-century Head to Trikala’s nightlife revolves aroundthe Thu-Sat) 24310 73131; cnr Othonos &Garivaldi) 24310 73131;cnrOthonos Πύλη ouzerie rembetika , along the riverbank Aparhes Bar Aparhes Corte Cafe Corte and cafés. all-night railway station (bluesmusic),followthe ( , withan impressive pair % (

% and music. 24310 24302;Asklipiou12) 24310 38486;Amalias8;

( KTEL busstation KTEL % . . 24310 27214) 263

CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE research here. station University a forest of maintains Thessaloniki resistance fighters inWWII. burned ittotheground forharbouringGreek beds. ItwascalledTierna before the Germans and hasgrownintoathrivingresort with1000 lages of ElatiandPertouli. breathtaking alpinescenery,passing thevil- lage of Bridge. Alexiou as farGardiki,which is5kmpastthe able bycar. (usually)cover Buses thisroute of butispass- thisscenicroadisunsealed, Dam isthecontroversialtowards Arta, Forty-nine kilometres southwestof Elati, day circulardrive bringsyoutoKalambaka. Potamia north of Elati,includingthebeautiful the once-remote areas mountainous westand With yourowntransport,youcanexplore follow thesignuphill for 500m. get here, crossthebridge over theriver and on aslopeof MtKoziakas, 5kmfromPyli.To the river and turn left. reach thechurch, crossthefootbridge over To of iconsandamarbleiconostasis. mosaic 264 lt & Pertouli & Elati Pertouli Pertouli Elati The 16th-century From Pyli,the40kmroadnorthto the vil- cut intopiecesformoneyandpower’. cause, asonelocalputit,‘Hersonisbeing river –hismotherTethys iscryingnowbe- Greek mythology,Aheloösisgodofthe wildlife aroundMessolongi. sanctuaries In would befelt asfarsouththewetland to begin operation,theecological effects haveGreek deniedpermits. courts the environmentalstudies. As aresult, the government builtthedamfirst,thendid foryears.stalled intheGreek The courts The hasbeen EU-fundedirrigationproject River AheloösintheSouthPindos range. dam near Mesohora villageontheupper ofa135m-highhydroelectricconstruction are waging adebate over thegovernment’s industrialistsandvillagers Conservationists, A FIGHTFORTHERIVER (see theboxed (see text, above HSAY • eer THESSALY ••Meteora If thealready constructed damisallowed issomethingof forTrikala ahillstation (Three Rivers) area. Ascenichalf- Neraidochori is alow-key version of Elati,andthe Ελάτη climbssteadily through Moni Agiou Vissarion Moni Agiou & ).About 10km Περτούλη Mesohora Mesohora stands stands Tria Tria s/d inclbreakfast €35/50) well-managed hotel, onthemainroad,is 71153; Elati;s/d/studioinclbreakfast €40/72/100) offerings (€6to€8). boar chops andvenison stew amongitsgamey able rooms.Thehotel restaurant ispopularfor on Elati’smainroad,withhuge andcomfort- Greek Swiss-chalet ambience,trytheKoziakas Hotel EATING & SLEEPING begin atabout€25. trips horse ridingandrockclimbing.Half-day hiking,mountain-biking, rafting, canoeing, 24310 36140;[email protected]) representative of has acosyfamilyatmosphere. be hired (€10to€15perday)andthecentre the roadfromElati.Skisandsnowboardscan centre Neraida (2074m). the endof Pertouli andreaches asummitat the region; apopularhikingpathbeginsat from acrossEurope. popular sportattractswhite-water jockeys to ridethewaters of theRiver Aheloös. The area,Tria Potamia 30kmnorthof Mesohora, Kayaking ACTIVITIES in the air’. The word ‘meteor’ is from the same in theair’. Theword‘meteor’ isfrom thesame adjective The nameMeteora derives fromtheGreek History is listed asaWorldHeritage Site. yard isthe els andarefectory. Inthecentre of each court- courtyard surroundedbymonks’cells, chap- landscape. atop themaddtothisstrange and beautiful Themonasteriesfuturistic sciencefictiontale. are fora ancient andyetcouldbethesetting Greece. Themassive pinnaclesof smoothrock place, andoneof themostvisited in all of (meh- Meteora METEORA to €7). in grilledliver andotherorgan delicacies(€5 taverna, The attached OHondros,specialises Elati’s largest, with35well-appointed rooms. Hotel Papanastasiou Hotel MrThanasisSamouris,theTrikala Contact There isasmall butlocallypopular Each monastery isbuiltaroundacentral Each

( % enthusiastscometothebeautiful meteoros, 24340 91385) katholikon Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ΜΕΤΕΩΡΑ

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(mainchurch) ( Hiking % , forinformationon 24340 71280;fax trailscrisscross ( % 6977451953, . Meteora Meteora This skiing skiing lonelyplanet.com (126km) Ioannina To 4 6 1 3 2 5 METEORA, KASTRAKI&KALAMBAKA 25 (60km) To Hollywood Café...... All TimeCafé...... Moni AgiasTriados...... Mary...... Tourist Police...... Surf CityInternetCafe...... Post Office...... Newsstand...... Hospital...... Church oftheAssumptionVirgin B5 Agiou Antoniou(closedtothepublic).. SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION 26 23

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265 B6 B6 A5 B6 A5 B6 A5 B6 D6 A5 B5 A6 A5 A5 C5 A5 A5 B6 A5 C6 C5 A4 CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE limited. hours. Opening hours in winter are slightly no twomonasteries keep exactly thesame hours; themonks are anindependent lot,and mindfulof opening monastery carparks.Be drinksandsnacks atsome canteens selling can bethirsty work,butthere are mobile down onfoot. take thebustotopandworkyourway AthirdchoiceRousanou. isthe middle way: Varlaam andtheconvent of MoniVarvaras monasteries –usuallyMoniMegalou, Moni giving youabout four hours toexplore several Moni Megalou Meteorou intheafternoon, Kastraki inthemorningandreturns from which picksup passengers inKalambaka and route involves thebus(€1.20,20minutes), Agiou Stefanou isabout 10km.Analternative see several decide onaroute. early,youcan Ifyoustart the old but it’spossibletoexplore thearea onfoot The monasteries are linked byasphaltroads, MONASTERIES Sights abroad. an occasionalGreek Orthodox priestfrom are forhaulingupprovisions nowused –and good lookatoneAgia Triada),butthey (youcanhave canstillbeseen a windlasses 1920s, andbyaconvenient backroad.Some by steps thatwere hewnintotherocksin the Lordletsthembreak’. replaced, themonks’stockreply was‘when visitors asked howfrequently theropeswere thatwhenapprehensivenets. Astorygoes were somonkscouldbehauledupin used climbing removable windlasses ladders. Later, retreat. the rocksof Meteora madethemanideal from thebloodshed.Theinaccessibilityof safe havensso monksbegantoseek away ish incursions intoGreece were ontherise, Roman Empire wasonthewaneandTurk- By the14thcentury,Byzantinepowerof the lived inthescattered caverns of Meteora. theboxed(see text, opposite Meteora are often more mysticalthanfactual root. Populartheoriesabouttheoriginof the 266 in oneday;theroadfromKastraki toMoni These days,accesstothemonasteries isThese From the11thcentury,hermitmonks Walking andclimbingaroundthe rocks The earliestmonasteries were reached by HSAY • eer THESSALY ••Meteora monopatia mones (monasteries), perhaps all, (paths). Before setting out, (paths). setting Before ). The Blessed Sisois at the Tombof Alexander frescoes byFrangosKastellanos. Themural andfinelate-Byzantinehas asmallmuseum above FoundedbyStAthanasiosin level. sea rockinthevalley,613m built onthehighest 22278; path thatzigzagsnorthwestto the ofuphill, indicatingthestart apartlycobbled blue signboardalongthepaved roadheading look forachevron-shaped white arrowona Moni Megalou fromMoniAgiou Nikolaou, ofsecution ChristiansbytheRomans.Toreach Martyrdom of Saints ofdome. Its striking series frescoes entitled katholikon over tothemonastery andbecameamonk.Its peror SymeonUros,whoturnedallhiswealth em- powerful monastery thankstotheSerbian the 14thcentury,itbecamerichest andmost Meteorou Megalou of AnimalsbyAdam in Paradise cially beautifulisthe1527fresco monk TheophanesStrelizas fromCrete. Espe- frescoes inits built inthe15thcentury,andsuperlative steps leadingtothe from thevillage square of tothebase thesteep Thu) Nikolaou Anapafsa; provided). skirts withelasticwaistbandsare generally must becovered (baggy tobelowtheknee (Holy Trinity Monastery; (Holy Trinity and bearright. laam, walktothe signposted forkintheroad To reach fromMoni Var- Moni Rousanou ment, andistodayhometoanorder of nuns. astunningaccomplish-of isitself Rousanou structureTransfiguration. Theimposingsteep with superbfrescoes of theResurrection and illuminated wooden bridge. Thebeautifulcoloured glass– ( past the candles. humble skeleton. Lookjustabove the door, Great the MoniVarlaam % lowed, menmustweartrousers andwomen codes are enforced:nobare shoulders are al- Of allthe monasteries, Access to About 700mdownfromMoniMegalou, The bestknownof themonasteries, NikolaouAnapafsa Moni Agiou isthenearest Entry toeach monastery is€2.Strictdress 24320 22649; h 9am-5pm Wed-Mon) showsthegreat conquerorasa has a magnificent 12-sided central hasamagnificent12-sidedcentral

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featured inthe1981James Bondfilm along withthelongest approach. Itwas lonelyplanet.com t mid-November. to mid-March to mid-Juneand mid-August timesweather-wisescale. are Best roughly and rates a‘5’ontheUIAA international style iscleanor traditional faceclimbing, towers120 sandstone of theMeteora. The Madness andthe Iron Edge. the Towerof theHolyGhost,Cornerof over 100peaks andtowers withnameslike routes canchoose various skilllevels from years.rock climbers Climbers forseveral of Meteora ameccaforEuropean hasbeen CLIMBING ROCK Activities fanou monasteries. road totheAgias TriadosandAgiou Ste- Varlaam tothe of thesignposted forknortheastof Moni 1.5km beyond Agias Triados. monastery isatthevery endof theroad, picture of Christonhis isanexquisite embroideredin themuseum and DVDsof Meteora. Amongtheexhibits souvenirs nunsselling withefficent lisation, & 3.30-6pmTue-Sun) Stefanou MoniAgiou Taverna. to Kalambaka, endingneartheKoka Roka ful. Awell-marked 1km dinary, andthesmall Your Eyes Only Fri-Wed) There are about700routes inall,covering For apanoramicbreak, walk300meast After theaustere MoniAgias Triados, religious sites, occupiedbymonksornunsandvisited bythefaithfulandtourists alike. of hermitmonks. Eventually, 24monasteries were builtonthesepinnacles. Today,sixare active extreme, caves andoverhangs hadappeared intherockface. the sandstoneandshalewashedaway,isolatingblocksofrockcliffs. Where erosionwasless serpentinite andmetamorphic,interspersed withlayersofsandandshale. that nowvaultheavenwards. The rockswere conglomerates ofmany types:limestone,marble, and cracks. The weatheringanderosionthatfollowedformedthetoweringoutcropsofrock extreme pressure onthehardened sedimentary deposits. The Meteora developed fissures netlike angle. The sametectonic movements mountainstomove causedtheflanking closer,exerting tectonic movementsmillion yearsagovertical pushedtheentire region outoftheseaatasloping FOREST ROCK The juttingpinnaclesandcliffs oftheMeteora were oncesediments of aninlandsea. About10 A OF GEOLOGY METEORA: THE As earlyasthe11thcenturyAD,theseawesomenaturalcaves hadbecomethesolitaryabodes By thedawnofhumancivilisation,rockshadweathered anderodedintofantasticshapes; hasthemostremote feel about it, THESSALY ••Kalambaka . Theviewshere are extraor- resembles areturn tocivi- Psaropetra ( % 24320 22279; katholikon epitafios monopati lookout,alongthe (bier).The h isbeauti- leadsback 9am-2pm For which is closer to which iscloser the rocks. [email protected]; Kalambaka) [email protected]; information andgradedroutes, check out two. is The busstation on Ikonomou. Plateia RigaFereou –Trikalon connectsthe Kalambaka’s stand. otherlargetaxi square is butdeparting acrosstheroadbehind the tain, on Plateia Dimarhiou, arrivingbythefoun- radiate stop fromit.Mostincomingbuses kalon, Ioanninon,Kastrakiou andVlahavas and themainthoroughfares of Rodou,Tri- Plateia Dimarhiouisthemainsquare intown, Orientation Kalambaka orthevillage of Kastraki ( p269 eitherin tospendthenight so you’llneed allof themonasteriesa daytosee of Meteora, ground bytheNazisinWWII.Ittakes atleast entirely modern, having burnedtothe been Kalambaka, thegateway toMeteora, isalmost pop 8138 KALAMBAKA www.kalampaka.com. ing instructor www.meteoraclimbing.gr; Kastraki) guide mountain eitherlicensed enced. Contact in Kastraki, bothfriendsandexperi- including harness, shoes and helmet.) €30. (Allequipmentisincludedinprices, about 1½hours ontherocksandcostsonly 60m and140m.Abeginner’sroute takes Mostclimbsreach between difficulty. heights son, dependingonroutes andthedegree of costs range fromabout €30to€50perper- There are twoexcellent A typicalclimbaverages three hours, and Lazaros Botelis ΚΑΛΑΜΠ Kostas Liolos

( % 24320 79165,6948043655; or mountaineer-

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CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE aisle basilicawithfrescoes thatdate back to [email protected]; Kanari 21;s/d€20/40; Kanari [email protected]; guesthouse.gr; Kanari 3;s/d/trinclbreakfast €40/50/60; guesthouse.gr; Kanari access perhr€4; Hotel Meteora Hotel andFrenchItalian are spoken. Three roomsincludeaJacuzzi bath. English, tional five-room isimmaculate. guesthouse pai laundry andwi-fi forguests. alsohasacommunalkitchen, Alsos House Roka, thewell-managed andvery comfortable 5; s/d/f €30/40/70; Kanari isavailable. laundry service immaculate roomsare wellfurnished, and is aninstitutionamongtravellers. Thefive Agias Triados,thefamily-runKokaRoka below therocksandnearpathtoMoni Fringed bymulberrytrees inatranquilspot noise. able traffic anything onTrikalonissubjecttoconsider- Rooms are plentifulinKalambaka, though Sleeping bus stop. market the 14thcentury.There isabusy Mary dral, the cathe- worth aglanceistheseventh-century rocks, theonlyotherthinginKalambaka northern edge of thetown.Apart fromthe amazed atthevertical rocksthatguardthe First-time visitors toKalambaka willbe Activities & Sights police Tourist Post office Cafe CityInternet Surf Hospital Hollywood Café office. post also acurrency exchange windownexttothe Plateia RigaFereou onTrikalon.There is Six bankswithATMs surroundthecentral Information 268 below therocks. management, cosyandgoodvalue, onaquietcul-de-sac 14;s/dinclbreakfast €25/35) Undernew .gr; Ploutarhou low-key compared with the game-heavy shopsnearby. compared withthegame-heavy low-key internet accessperhr€3; Guest HouseElena Alsos House o Other goodoptions:

HSAY • aabk THESSALY ••Kalambaka (admission free; every Friday, next to the fountain and Friday,nexttothefountain every ( % (Trikalon 24) (Trikalon Church of the Assumption of the Virgin oftheVirgin Church oftheAssumption ) Koka Roka Rooms Roka Koka Tasteful andinviting,thistradi- 24320 22222;Pindou) ( h ( % % ( ( % % 9am-1am) Onlyafew computers,but 24320 76100;cnrIpirou&Pindou) 24320 22367;gekask@otenet h 24320 24097;www.alsoshouse.gr; 24320 24964; Trikalon 67;internet 24320 24964;Trikalon h

( pai ( 9am-1pm &3-5pm) % % 24hr) 24320 75366; Trikalon 73; 24320 75366;Trikalon 24320 77789;www.elena

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good grillsandfresh low-key pasta, Taverna €4-7.50) ( left from topfloors. €45/60/80; .com/edelweiss; EVenizelou 3; s/d/twinclbreakfast lamb is grilled and served with a tasty house withatasty lamb isgrilledandserved a fireplace where, succulent mostnights, mains €5-8) bus stop. Panellinion and isjustopposite thefountain which are alwayswithfresh localingredients. ready dishes such aschicken inlemonsauce, rate mezedhes(such asroasted feta) andoven- mains€5-7.50) Dimarhiou; Skaros. butcher intownyears before openingO reason; theownerandcook,wasa Kostas, lakia hand. here,the night orbouzoukiin withguitar from Volos.Afew localmusiciansoften end To Paramithi bringsinfresh daily seafood 14;mains€4-7) Patriarhou Dimitriou o Eating Edelweiss Hotel Volos change atPaliofarsalos. tion Trains departfrom theKalambaka TRAIN Volos 3hr 35min Trikala 4hr Thessaloniki 2-3daily €16 1½hr Metsovo €13.60 €1.90 6 Lamia 2½hr €16.60 Ioannina 3hr €8.50 4½hr Athens 5½hr hourly 4 Delphi (viaAmfissa) €9.90 2 daily €10.50 Destination Duration €23 Fare Buses fromKalambaka 4 2 Frequency 7 point). daily daily roundabout (across theroadfromarrival opposite the stand from thekioskandtaxi daily arrive anddepartBuses bythefountain, daily S daily U B Getting There&Away wine. Koka Roka Taverna Roka Koka Taverna Panellinion Taverna OSkaros ( ),theinformaltaverna kitchen includes %

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) Wellmanaged,withviews % 24320 24152; Trikalon; mains 24320 24152;Trikalon; ( % 24320 24554; Kanari 21; 24320 24554;Kanari 24320 24735;Plateia Alongwithvery

( % 24320 24441; trainsta- main roadopposite Taverna Paradisos. Patriarhou Dimitriou 28) Patriarhou Dimitriou nra) ½r 09 2 daily 3daily 3/ 10.90 €16.80/8.90 3/4hr Volos 1½hr 5½hr (express/normal) €20.30/ Thessaloniki €5.10 normal) 2 4½hr/ Athens (Intercity/ Frequency Fare Destination Duration Kalambaka from Trains daily Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com are great value, andahomemade lunch or facing therocks, domatia, especiallythose €25/40/50; self-caterers. for a smallmarket, ataverna, andabarbecue features spotlesstoilet andshower blocks, andwell-shadedcamping ground standing on theKalambaka–Kastraki road,thisout- meteora.gr; campsitesperadult/tent€6/2; Vrachos Camping Sleeping Café (€12). Publishers), isavailable shop fromthesame of Meteora booklet andmapinEnglish, with GeologyMeteora inKalambaka)stand isthe Kastraki isagoodchoice. asteries, orfor climbingtherocksthemselves, forexploringtheMeteorawant abase mon- the rocksgives itanotherworldlyfeel. If you lambaka. Its impressive under locationright The village of Kastraki isabout 2kmfromKa- pop 1203 KASTRAKI hired fromthe arrange tourforabout €20perhour. ataxi ers orFrench, speakEnglish,German andyou Moni Megalou Meteorou for€6).Somedriv- (€3) andallthemonasteries (forexample, Megalou Meteorou ( p266 and Sunday)continueontoMeteroa’s Moni to Friday,and8.20am1.20pmSaturday and twoof (9amand1.30pm Monday these minutes fromthePlateia Dimarhioufountain, forKastrakiBuses (€1.20)leave 45 aboutevery Around Getting Taxis (oppositegotoKastraki thefountain) Rooms Ziogas Kastraki hasitsowninternet shop, An excellentmap(available atthenews- Bikes andmotorcycles(€6to€18)canbe ( % 24320 23930;perhr€3; pa byAndonisKalogirou (Kritiki ΚΑΣΤΡ

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( % Panoramic Map 9am-2am) TheFootpaths /fax 2432025262; s THESSALY ••Kastraki Located ) , onthe All Time tres pastAllTime thiswelcoming15- Café, incl breakfast €30/50/60; €40/50) Good value, but often full with package groups. fullwithpackage €40/50) Goodvalue,butoften per adult/tent€4.50/3; and stuffed tomatoes andpeppers. Lookfor tomatoes and stuffed taverna suchtasty as lambgrills standards, €4-8) portions. dishes,always inheartysouvlakia andpasta terrace, andfeatures excellent lambgrills, popular localtaverna backinashaded isset €4-7.50) ingredients. cuisine award,notingitsfresh andtraditional restaurant wastherecent recipient of aGreek hes andachoice of goodGreek wines.The kitchen favourites, mezed- alongwithtasty Grilled lamband views of theMeteora fromthelarge terrace. at theroomyParadisos, alongwithspectacular €4-7.50) found inKastraki. There isnoshortage of goodtavernas tobe Eating choose theroomsawayfromroad. incl breakfast €40/45/55; Sydney Hotel Kastraki Hotel Boufidis Camping Kastraki road: of therocks,butexpecttourgroups. very views handsomeroomsandoutstanding newest upscalehotel offers aswanklobby bar, breakfast from€80/110/180; terrace overlooking thevillage androcks. onagarden furnished, andbreakfast isserved spotless andbalconied roomsare tastefully village, 500mfromthetownsquare. The pai s/d/trinclbreakfast €40/50/60; [email protected]; afewand even nonsmokingrooms. frontgarden, rooms, alongwithapleasant room lodgingfeatures simplewood-furnished owners. family dinner isavailable uponrequest fromthe domatia available. Camping, butlocationandpoolbarredeem it.Some o Other goodoptionsalongtheKalambaka– Kastraki Meteora Hotel o Taverna Gardenia Vavitsos Taverna Meteora Tsikeli Hotel Gardeniagets goodmarkslocallyfor Look for outstanding traditionalmeals Lookforoutstanding Justopposite Hotel Kastraki, this ) Taverna Paradisos Incomparably set justoutsidethe Incomparablyset Doupiani House ( % (

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269 CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL CENTRAL GREECE the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake mild retsina andexcellentlocal is knownforitsfriedcodwithgarlic,and a terrace belowthechurch, thispopulareatery south of thebigchurch onthesquare. the patioshaded bytwoplanetrees, just20m 270 © LonelyPlanetPublications Taverna Bakaliarakia Taverna Bakaliarakia HSAY • atai THESSALY ••Kastraki (

% 24320 23170) tsipouro Sitting on . welcome sight inlow-keywelcome sight Kastraki. bar andgelateria hasdarkred terrace walls,a turn-off totheMeteora. Thiscombinationjazz spot (andamellowoneatthat)isjustpastthe ABG Café-Bar Entertainment (

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