© Lonely Planet Publications 229 C e n t r a l G r e e c e Κεντρική Ελλάδα It’s no coincidence that the rugged terrain of central Greece was the setting for heroic strug- gles among the gods and mortals. Journeys to this region provide glimpses of the essential character of the Greek people, along with plenty of outdoor adventures and unforgettable landscapes. The ruins at Delphi, where Alexander the Great sought the advice of the famous oracle of Delphi, remain one of Greece’s most inspiring archaeological sites and are also the starting point for hikes that follow ancient footpaths. The northern region of Thessaly is home to the monastery-topped pinnacles of Meteora, with buildings dating from the 14th century. The spectacular columns of rock are not only a mecca for Greek Orthodox pilgrims, but also home to world-class rock climbing, with over 100 sandstone peaks and towers to choose from. To the east lies the Pelion Peninsula, crisscrossed with old cobblestone donkey paths that link lush mountain hamlets with seaside coves and fishing villages. Sandy beaches rival the best of the Aegean islands, but without the crowds. According to Greek mythology, it was CENTRAL GREECE in nearby Volos that Jason and the Argonauts set sail in search of the Golden Fleece, in a boat made from timbers of the Pelion forests. Overlooking the Gulf of Corinth, the steep slopes of Mt Parnassos invite modern-day hik- ers to retrace ancient walking trails. River-rafting opportunities abound in the South Pindos ranges, and the high alpine meadows are perfect for breezy summer hikes. To the south, nearer to Athens, are the Byzantine frescoes of Osios Loukas, the most famous in Greece. And to the southwest, natural wetlands and wildlife sanctuaries stretch from the Corinthian Gulf west to the Ionian Sea. HIGHLIGHTS Live Music Dancing in the bouzouki clubs in the old Palaia district of Volos ( p253) Meteora Go with the flow White-water river rafting in Tria Potamia the Tria Potamia ( p264) region Volos Walking Haven Following the cobblestone Pelion village trails of the Pelion Peninsula ( p254) Peninsula Don’t Look Down Climbing the Tower of Thermopylae the Holy Ghost rock pinnacle at Meteora ( p267) Klisova Ancient Delphi Meditative Moment Seeking a sunrise at Lagoon the Sanctuary of Athena ( p234 ) in Ancient Delphi Photo Op Spotting great cormorant and egret seabirds diving into Klisova Lagoon ( p242) Historical Experience Standing where 300 Spartans bravely defended Thermopylae ( p246) POPULATION: 1.9 MILLION AREA : 37,042 SQ KM CENTRAL GREECE taken taken prisoner. Another30,000 were in thebloody battle. butnot 6000Thebanswhodied the temples, Alexander spared trol andsidingwith Persia. con- againstMacedonian forrebelling Great BC, byAlexander the whenitwassacked Thiva’s gloriousrunendedabruptly in335 rious inbattleagainstonce-invincible Sparta. In371BCBoeotia region. thecity was victo- BC, the Thivabecamethedominantcityof (see right ). Museumviewed withintheArchaeological itspastglory,except those thatcanbe of vestiges Thivahas few Present-day enae. ancientMyc- Oedipus, rivalledthatof of onthemyth itsroyaldynasty,centred of Thetragicfate andthePeloponnese. Greece positionbetween ing astrategic northern BC occupy- goldenage, duringGreece’s onysos, wasapowerfulcity-state in400 andDi- Hercules Thiva, thebirthplaceof pop 22,100 alike. rafters andriver byhikers and explored prizedfor theirbeauty, same mountains are purposes asuncollectable. Today,these offfortax written were mountain villages ish occupation,whenthehard-to-reach sonamedduringtheTurk- ‘unrecorded’, or isknownasthe‘Agrafa’ ous region and Epirostothenorth.Thismountain- inthesouth, CorinthandPatra gulfs of state. Greek formed thenewly in1827,aspartof land Greece) Ellada(Main- thenameSterea gion acquired Infact,there- Independence. Warof Greek duringthe fever bard LordByrondiedof British where andwesttoMessolongi, fate, KingOedipus methis legendary tica, where Beyond easttoAt- Delphi,thelandsstretch theworld. of asthecentre ancient Greeks bythe Corinth,sitsDelphi,regarded Gulf of the overlooking MtParnassos, the slopesof On andsceniclandscape. gle intherugged seem Greece to min- thology andhistoryof Ellada,themy- Sterea yougoin Wherever ΣΤΕΡΕΑ 230 STEREA ELLADA THIVA (THEBES) Sterea Ellada is bordered by the narrow bythenarrow Elladaisbordered Sterea After the Trojan Warinthe12thcentury theTrojan After STEREA ELLADA ••Thiva(Thebes) STEREA ELLADA ΕΛΛΑΔΑ Θ H ΒΑ Mycenaean palaces, along with terracotta Mycenaean palaces,alongwithterracotta ear Bscriptandjewelleryfoundinthe part for Athens (normal/express €3.50/9.20, part forAthens(normal/express daily) fromThiva’scentral five hourly) andLivadia(€3.90,45minutes, Buses toAthens(€7,1½hours, operate Getting There&Away on thesquare. way’atthiswelcomingeatery the oldGreek roni andseasoned mincedlamb)made‘in sauce, and aslambinlemon such dishes his oven-ready Friendly ownerandhostKypriotakis boastsof TV. andsatellite wi-fi free buffet breakfast, adjacent tothe Niovi, signatthewell-managed red-and-black €38/43; nonda 63;s/dinclbreakfast Hotel Niovi Sleeping & Eating mainland Greece. sarcophagi,masks anddecorated uniqueto until 2009. toreopen and notscheduled ever, themuseum isclosed forrenovations historyandmythology.How- place inGreek admission €2; pressive withitshistory,Thivahasanim- In keeping Archaeological Museum national highway, with a turn-off that takes national highway, that takes withaturn-off Athens to Delphi,thebest wayisviathe Greece. with thebest-preserved wallsinall fortress Germeno leadsto4th-century-BC toPorto off Aroadbranching Wars. Persian (479 BC) the tookplace,markingtheendof the where ruins nearErythres, shepherd. Historybuffs canalsoinspectthe bya beingrescued ancient Atticabefore onthismountainleft toperish bordering Oedipus was According tomythology,baby Kythairon, stands between AthensandThiva. Eleftherae The well-preserved 4th-century AROUND THIVA four daily). €12.60/32.50,four/5½hours, (normal/express 10daily),andThessaloniki 75/60 minutes, 27512) If you want to travel here en route from enroute here If youwanttotravel Dionysos Restaurant Lin- The collectionincludestablets of Trains from , 500m north of thecentral , 500mnorthof Archaeological Museum , guarding the Kaza Pass over Mt Mt over Pass , guardingtheKaza h ( % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com pastitsio 8am-2.30pm Tue-Sat) 8am-2.30pm Tue-Sat) 22620 29888;www.hotelniovi.gr;Epami- plateia Thiva station (layers of buttery maca- buttery of (layers ( % (square). Rates include (square). 22620 24445;mains€4-7.50) ai bus station ( % documenting its Battle ofPlataea ( 22620 27531) % ) Lookforthe plateia Aigosthena 22620 27913; Fortress of ( % . 22620 de- , lonelyplanet.com 0 50 km STEREA ELLADA 0 30 miles To Ioannina To Trikala (20km); Karditsa To Larisa (20km); (18km) Kalambaka (53km) Thessaloniki (175km) Volos Pelion Peninsula EPIROS Lake Farsala Alonnisos SPORADES Lake Plastiras Skiathos To Parga Arahthos Pagasitikos Peristera (63km) THESSALY Gulf Arta Almyros STEREA ELLADA Skantzoura E951 Skopelos E75 Trikeri Mt Mt Tymfristos Velouhi Mt Orthys (2312) (2315m) E65 (1726m) Preveza Ambracian See Thessaly Map (p248) Makri Glyfa Gulf A E G E A N Aktion Karpenisi Stylida Lake Fidakia E952 To Skyros Vonitsa Kremasta Tymfristos Loutra Loutra Edipsou S E A Koryshades Ipatis Lamia Maliakos Gulf (14km) Amfilohia Mt Tymfristos Ipati Mikro Horio Megalo Horio Paleros Tunnel Mt Iti ETOLO- Gavros ὈὈKrikello Iti (2114m) Lake AKARNANIA Thermopylae Kamena Arkitsa Prousos Mt National Vourla Agios Meganisi Amvrakia Moni Kaliakouda Park Konstantinos Mytikas (2098m) Theologos E55 Panagias Pavliani Amfiklia Kymi Kalamos Agrinio Proussiotissas Parnassos Lefkada Ano Hora National Park Gulf of Kifissos Evia Evia Lake Thermo Mt Parnassos Astakos Trihonida Lake Mornos Amfissa (2457m) Orhomenos Kastos Aheloös E65 Ancient Arahova Atokos Davlia Kastro Halkida Delphi Delphi Eretria Ithaki Etoliko Monastiraki Itea Kira Distomo Nafpaktos Ὀ Livadia Agios E75 Vathy Nikolaos Messolongi E65 Trizonia Gulf of Galaxidi Skala Evia Piso Lagoon Andirio Thiva Aetos Klisova Moni Osios (Thebes) Oropou Rio-Andirio Plataea Oxia Rio Egio Loukas Sami Bridge Fortress of Erythres Mt Parnitha Nea Kefallonia (1413m) Agia Styra Gulf of Patra Gulf of Corinth Aigosthena Fortress of Patra Eleftherae Marina Poros I O N I A N Alkionides E962 Gulf Porto S E A Xylokastro Germeno Elefsina E55 (Eleusis) Ὀ Rafina Marmari Kiato E95 Kalavryta Megara ATHENS Loutraki Piraeus Salamina E65 PELOPONNESE Flisvos Corinth Kechries Bay Petalia Zakynthos Kyllini Salamina ATTICA Gulf Kechries Vouliagmeni Amaliada Zakynthos Aegina To the Town Town Saronic Lavrio Cyclades E65 (20km) Angistri Gulf Sounion Aegina 231 Cape To the Korissia Pyrgos To Kalamata To Kalamata Argos To Crete Sounion Cyclades Kea (116km) (100km) (200km) (10km) CENTRAL GREECE GREECE CENTRAL 232 STEREA ELLADA •• Livadia Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com STEREA ELLADA •• Delphi 233 you west through Thiva and Livadia. How- sacred sanctuary, making Delphi an autono- ever, with your own transport and a yen for THE OEDIPUS CROSSROADS mous state that enjoyed great prosperity from READ ON history, you can also reach Thiva by means A traveller can still see the spot ‘where three numerous benefactors, including the kings of For an entertaining rundown on the com- of a winding mountain road, which begins roads meet’, as described by the ancient Lydia and Egypt, and Hadrian. plex relationships (marital and extramari- 2km west of Elefsina