C M Y K 은색

ISSN 2005-0151

Winter 2008 Vol. 1 No. 3 Winter 2008 Vol. 1 No. 3

Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage Administration

Winter 2008 Vol. 1 No. 3

CoverCover StoryStory BlackBlack symbolizes symbolizes the the winter winter teratiterati painter painter and and calligrapher calligrapher andand thethe north.north. TheThe symbolismsymbolism ofof thethe latelate JoseonJoseon period.period. TheThe derivesderives from from the the five five colors colors horizontallyhorizontally elongated elongated scene scene thatthat represent represent the the five five eleele-- hashas aa thatchedthatched huthut flankedflanked byby Winter 2008 Vol. 1 No. 3 mentsments ofof universeuniverse inin thethe tratra-- talltall pine pine and and pine pine nut nut trees, trees, ditionalditional AsianAsian philosophyphilosophy (see(see depicteddepicted in in simple simple brush brush

pagepage 4).4). TheThe covercover designdesign feafea-- strokes.strokes. The The colophon colophon says, says,

turestures “A “A Winter Winter Scene” Scene” ( (SeSe-- “It’s“It’s only only the the cold cold spell spell that that handohando),), aa representativerepresentative workwork bringsbrings the the recognition recognition the the byby Kim Kim Jeong-hui Jeong-hui (1786-1856), (1786-1856), pinepine andand pinepine nutnut treestrees witherwither aa famous famous scholar-official, scholar-official, li-li- laterlater thanthan others.”others.”

KOERANKOREAN HERITAGEHERITAGE isis alsoalso availableavailable onon thethe website.website. (( http://english.cha.go.krhttp://english.cha.go.kr )) 3 | 4

ADMINISTRATOR’S NOTE WORD ON THE COVER DESIGN

Cooperation for Returning Displaced Cultural Properties Colors of the Five Cardinal Directions

This year marks the 30th anniversary of the Intergovernmental Committee Koreans have traditionally believed that the five cardinal directions for Promoting the Return of Cultural Property to its Countries of Origin or and their symbolic colors influenced their lives. Based on the tra- its Restitution in case of Illicit Appropriation. We are pleased to host “The ditional Chinese philosophy of Wu Xing (Ohaeng in Korean), all ICPRCP Extraordinary Session in Celebration of its 30th Anniversary: Its natural phenomena, including human life, were seen to interact and Past and Future” in Seoul to review the committee’s activities over the past change in a cycle of phases under the influence of directional ener- three decades and plan its future agenda. gies, each with a set of associations, such as colors, seasons and shapes. Cultural properties promote intergenerational understanding and enrich national history. They have the power to consolidate the bond among gen- erations through the endeavors to properly preserve the spiritual legacy of forebears. The ICPRCP was founded in 1978 with a view to returning these cultural properties to countries where they were created. East was associated with blue, wood, spring, and the power to chase evil spirits and invoke blessings; west was identified with white, It is our common wisdom that “the past opens our eyes to see the present, and metal, autumn, and innocence, truth and purity; north was symbol- the present offers us guidance to look ahead to the future.” In this regard, the ized in black, water, winter, and wisdom; south was represented by Seoul session will be a valuable opportunity for the committee to reflect on red, fire, summer, passion and creativity. Last but not least, yellow its past records and chart its course for the future. stood for the center or zenith, and change of seasons. I firmly believe that the committee will be able to build an even more sol- These five colors permeated Korean folk life. They were broadly id bridge of international exchange and cooperation to connect the parties applied in clothes, architecture, handicrafts, amulets and various which own cultural properties and those who request their repatriation. objects for everyday use, remaining indelible in Korean aesthetics until nowadays.

Yi, Kun Moo Administrator Cultural Heritage Administration Republic of Korea 5 | 6

Winter 2008 Vol. 1 No. 3

CONTENTS

07 World Heritage in Korea 27 Photo Gallery

Hwaseong Embodies Reformist Ideals of Joseon Monarch Famous Scenic Spots in Korea, Seongnagwon

13 Korean Traditional Architecture 35 Foreigner’s View

Frank Lloyd Wright Enticed by Korean Floor Heating System Sinseon Paintings on Temple Walls

17 Natural Heritage 39 A Brush with Lively Touch

Pioneer Plants on Dokdo Islets Colorful Tomb Murals Recreate the Lives and Faiths of Goguryeo People

23 The King and Pagodas 47 Intangible Heritage

Romantic Legend about King Mu and Stone Pagodas of Traditional Childbirth Customs and Symbolism of Mireuksa Temple Ritual Foods World Heritage in Korea 7 | 8

Hwaseong Embodies Reformist Ideals of Joseon Monarch

Text by Kwon Sam-yun | history traveler and World Heritage researcher Photos by Shim Hwan-geun / Lee Sang-hee

The Korean noun seong comprises a rather immediately ordered the construction of a new 1. A walkway along the stone rampart of Hwaseong broad category of classical architectures and town in the vicinity. The king envisioned a public works facilities, ranging from the Great thriving new city where “every household is Wall of China to the New Swan Stone Castle of rich and affluent, and every individual amica- Germany. Hwaseong Fortress, one of Korea’s ble and joyous.” Construction lasted two years proudest historical monuments, is yet another and 10 months and was completed in 1796. type of seong. The name means “brilliant for- Hwaseong was designed with a wholly new tress” but it actually is a walled city, compa- concept. It was intended to be a non-political, rable to the Old City of Jerusalem. commercial city, distinguished from mountain Hwaseong: Construction of New Town fortresses that provided temporary shelter in times of crisis. Hwaseong would be a well- Most history buffs instantly associate King defended city, where its residents could stay Jeongjo (r. 1776-1800), the 22nd ruler of the permanently, keeping their personal assets and Joseon Dynasty, with the tragic death of his fa- industrial facilities as safe in times of war as ther, Crown Prince Sado, that he witnessed at in times of peace. Hence, a variety of defen- a young age. The childhood memory and his sive features such as parapets and spiral towers deep affection for his parents had a dominant were added to the town wall. influence on the erudite king for the rest of his Jeong Yak-yong, a young intellectual who life and his governance. The construction of would later lead the school of Practical Learn- a new town named Hwaseong to the south of ing (Sirhak), played a prominent role in the the capital epitomized his goal of consolidating planning and building of Hwaseong. Most no- royal power and rebuilding the nation, which tably, Jeong devised cranes and pulleys under was waning amid factional strife among pow- the royal orders to create devices to lift heavy erful aristocrats. construction material. It is no surprise that King Jeongjo moved his father’s tomb from the Jeong, who advocated learning Western science eastern suburbs of the capital to the mountain and technology through Qing China, referred at the back of Suwon, reputed to be the most to the German scientist and Jesuit missionary 1 auspicious burial site in the country. Then he Johannes Terrenz’s book, “Collected Diagrams World Heritage in Korea 9 | 10

3. Hwahongmun, the northern floodgate, and 2. Janganmun, the main Banghwasuryujeong, an gate of Hwaseong, faces the exquisite pavilion standing north toward the capital. 2 3 on a nearby hill

and Explanations of the Wonderful Machines cient city gates is that it is shielded by a semi- a rather long name evoking poetic feelings, ers with distinctive appearances, one to the from the Far West” (Wonseo gigi doseol, or Yu- circular chemise protruding to the outside and Banghwasuryujeong, literally the “pavilion northeast and one to the northwest. They are anxi qiqi tushuo in Chinese). These machines flanked by guard platforms on either side. The for seeking flowers and following willows.” It called Gongsimdon, meaning “empty spiral saved enormous manpower in transporting and brick-built chemise with parapet walks and overlooks the dragon pond underneath the hill. tower.” Built of stone and brick and topped piling up bricks and stones. machicolations keeps any curious outsiders The floodgate, the pavilion and the pond form by a pavilion-type wooden superstructure, from approaching. Hwaseong’s most popular scenic spot. these three-story towers have gun embrasures Harmony of Magnificence and Precision arranged alternately to be used for observing From Janganmun, one can see the gently curv- What was the idea behind creating this lyrical Hwaseong’s 5.7km wall stretches over chang- enemy movements and firing arms. They have ing wall embrace the current urban center of interval in a military stronghold? The answer ing terrain. It runs from mountain ridges over- wooden floors, spiral ladders and banquettes on Suwon with some 3,000 private homes. Stand- could be found from the statement by Chae Je- looking the crowded urban center of present- the wall inside. The northeastern tower, located ing out from among these homes is a detached gong, the chief state councilor who supervised day Suwon to a flatland park with well-tended palace of Joseon, where King Jeongjo hosted between Changnyeongmun, the east gate, and lawn and a bustling marketplace in a densely the work. When the main ridge beam of the the famous 60th birthday party of his mother, the eastern command post, is more famed than populated neighborhood. The wall is topped pavilion for the western command post was in- Lady Hyegyeong. The palace had been used with crenelated parapets and equipped with stalled, Chae, a noted statesman, wrote: “When as the office of Suwon Magistracy but was scores of military facilities, including com- we are thoroughly prepared, who would ever expanded during the Hwaseong construction mand posts, sentry towers, observation towers, dare take us slightly?” The fortress was evi- for the king to stay on his visits. Adjacent to a beacon tower, artillery platforms, bunkers, dently desired to ensure peace for the popula- the recently reconstructed palace is Yeonmu- bastions and secret gates. tion to enjoy their lives while devoting them- dae, the site of special military command. The selves to trades. Janganmun, facing north toward Seoul, is main thoroughfare connecting Janganmun to the main gate of the old walled town and the the south gate, Paldalmun, is called Palbujagil, A Showcase of Unique Defensive Features best place to start a tour along the wall. The meaning the “avenue of eight rich men,” sug- The wall consists of stone ramparts and para- gate itself is an impressive structure, a typi- gesting the Joseon king’s ambition to build a pets with crenels and merlons. Looking closer, cal classical city gate consisting of an arched commercial hub here. Presently, the area has the embrasures have different angles; some 4 entrance built of granite with a pavilion-type some 15,000 residents. were for long-distance shooting and some for 4. A battlement installed wooden superstructure. The pavilion has two Walking along the bank to the east from Jan- short-distance shooting. with cannons stories, an elegant gabled roof and decorative ganmun, one comes upon a graceful open pa- 5. A crenel on a wooden multi-bracket sets. It resembles Sungnyemun, The ramparts have protruding battlements, one panel door of an observa- vilion standing on a stone bridge with seven tion tower the south gate of Seoul, in style but is larger every 100 meters or so, designed to repel en- arched sluices. It is Hwahongmun, the northern in scale. The arched entrance was made wide emy troops by attacking from the sides. Some floodgate, straddling the Suwon Stream.- Be enough for royal sedan chairs to pass through battlements are installed with cannons, some yond this floodgate another beautiful pavilion in official processions. with sentry towers. stands on a hill with willow trees. This exqui- What truly sets this gate apart from similar an- site, L-shaped pavilion with an ornate roof has Hwaseong has two high observation tow- 5 World Heritage in Korea 11 | 12

6 7

6-7. Two “empty spiral tow- the northwestern tower. ganmun and its chemises were finished about 9. Paldalmun, the southern ers,” called Gongsimdon, 9 gate of Hwaseong stand at the northwestern three months later, but the guard posts on ei- A further walk from the northeastern obser- and the northeastern edge ther side, both lost now, were completed on the the post was used for watching the situation In 1997, the UNESCO World Heritage Com- of the fortress. vation tower toward Paldalmun in the south, same day. The neatly built stone rampart with within the fortress and communicating with the mittee decided to inscribe Hwaseong Fortress the rampart runs to an exceptionally beautiful an arched entrance is surmounted by a double- outside through signals from the beacon tower. on the World Heritage List in recognition of its beacon tower. The dark brick tower, built on a story wooden pavilion with imposing roofs. Military information thus gathered was con- value as “an outstanding example of early mod- granite foundation, has five mounds for making The gabled top roof looks majestic and its veyed to troops stationed around the fortress. ern military architecture incorporating the most fire or smoke for different signals. They have smartly upturned lines obviously do not match highly developed features of the science from On the day before his mother’s 60th birthday gently curving silhouettes like well-shaped a military fortress. Was the roof so formed as both east and west.” The committee highly in the fourth month of 1784, King Jeongjo paid jars. to intimidate enemies? Or, was it intended to commended the Royal Protocol of Hwaseong homage at his father’s grave in her accompa- symbolize the hopes of the king and his sub- Construction (Hwaseong seongyeok euigwe), What Did King Jeongjo Dream? niment. Then he came up to the western com- jects to build a strong, prosperous country? a white paper on the entire project. The offi- mand post to lead troop exercises. Here he also The distance from the northern to southern cial government report contains detailed ac- From Janganmun again, let us walk to the complimented Chae Je-gong, the chief state gates of Hwaseong is 1.2 kilometers. The name counts on all aspects of the construction, from right along the rampart toward the west gate, councilor, for successfully finishing the -con of the south gate, Paldalmun, meaning “gate to the planning to human resources, finances and Hwaseomun. Unlike the other gates, this one struction with his ingenious leadership. all roads,” is emblematic of the Joseon ruler’s construction materials, as well as royal instruc- has a single-story wooden pavilion atop the desire to build a booming commercial town Past the western command post the rampart tions, concerned regulations and court confer- stone arched entrance. It gives a comfortable where people and goods from everywhere runs further to a couple of more sentry towers ences. The report provided basic guidance for feeling as if alluring a passer-by to stop and take would gather and then be distributed. The ram- before reaching Paldalmun at the southern end. reconstruction of the fortress, which was se- a break under its cozy shade. On the outside the The tour roughly takes half a day. verely damaged during the colonial period. parts on both sides were destroyed to give way gate is surrounded by a chemise slightly tilted to a large traditional market and modern shop- to one side. Toward one end of the outer for- Construction Report with Indigenous Value ping malls. So the gate lives up to its name. tification rises an eye-catching structure--the 10-11. A secret gate Paldalmun was completed 10 days after Jan- northwestern “empty spiral tower.” 8. The beacon tower for Past the west gate the rampart keeps climbing emergency communica- tion upward to the western sentry tower and then toward the summit of Mt. Paldal, where the western command post is located. The main structure here is a double-story open pavilion housing a communication drum. From the sec- ond story of the pavilion one can have a full view of 100 li (40km) around as well as every 8 nook and corner throughout the fortress. Thus 10 11 Korean Traditional Architecture 13 | 14

to be demolished, people swarm like angry bees to launch campaigns to protect them.

Oregon has Gordon House, designed by Wright in 1956. The original owner of the house, Ev- 2. The Imperial Hotel in Tokyo Frank Lloyd Wright Enticed elyn Gordon, died in 1977, and her heir, Ed 3. Jaseondang, the resi- Gordon, sold the house in September 2000. dence of the crown prince The new owner planned to raze the house and of the Joseon Dynasty, by Korean Floor Heating System after it was moved and rebuild on the Gordon site. When the news rebuilt in Tokyo in 1918 2 spread, however, campaigns started not only (Courtesy of Hotel Okura) in Oregon but across America to preserve the house. The new owner eventually yielded to Text by Choi Jong-deok | director of Architectural Heritage Division, Cultural Heritage Administration the public uproar and donated the house to the Photos by Choi Jong-deok / Graphic Korea Frank Lloyd Wright Building Conservatory under the condition that the house be moved within 105 days.

Accepting an overture from the Oregon Gar- ner of the room and a chimney on the opposite den Society, the conservatory had the house side. Heat from a wood or charcoal fire flowed divided into three parts and moved on trucks through the flues toward the chimney, heating to be rebuilt at the Oregon Garden in Silver- the stones and thereby the air in the room. ton, Oregon, some 40 kilometers away. Stories about the relocation in 2001 were described in What is surprising is that this traditional heating 3 the book, The Gordon House: A Moving Expe- system was modified for modern architecture rience. Gordon House was one of them. for the first time by none other than the Ameri- can architect Frank Lloyd Wright (1867-1959), Gordon House differed from other American How was the “Korean room” made in Japan? the guru of modern Western architecture. homes in one unusual aspect: It had a floor The question never left me after Professor heating system. Wright buried hot water pipes Roth’s lecture. The clue came from an utterly I learned about Wright’s adaptation some years under the floors to heat bedrooms and halls unexpected source. Some time ago I happened ago when I attended a course on the history with warm air rising from the floors, a method to hear Professor Kim Jeong-dong of Mokwon of modern architecture at the University of 1 he learned while visiting Japan. University, a specialist in modern Korean ar- Oregon. One lecture was devoted to a public chitecture, describe how the Joseon Dynasty 1. The Gordon House (From Almost all Korean homes nowadays are heated campaign that had preserved the only Wright- In 1914, Wright traveled to Tokyo for a con- The Gordon House: A Mov- crown prince’s residence in Gyeongbok Palace, designed building in the state of Oregon. Quite tract to design the Imperial Hotel. One winter ing Experience) by hot water pumped through thin pipes em- named Jaseondang, was moved to Japan during day, he was invited to the home of his patron, bedded in concrete blocks beneath floors. The unexpectedly, the professor, Leland Roth, ex- the colonial period. The story instantly made a Japanese nobleman, who entrusted him with heat generated from the concrete blocks evenly plained Wright’s connection with the Korean me suspect it might have been the same room the project. In his house, Wright was shown a warms both the floor and the air, creating a nat- floor heating system. The lecture was roughly that impressed Wright. room, where he had a pleasant feeling he had ural indoor environment. as follows: never experienced before. He asked, “Why is According to Professor Kim, a Japanese entre- This heating system evolved from a traditional Wright is one of the most celebrated architects this room so comfortable?” The answer was preneur named Okura Kihachiro dismantled the Korean heating device called gudeul, which in America and is widely considered an icon of that the room was called the “Korean room” Korean crown prince’s residence and moved it first appeared at least 2,300 years ago. Linguists modern architecture. He is admired not only in and the pleasant feeling came from the tradi- to his house in Tokyo in 1914. A noted collector trace gudeul to guun dol, which means “baked the United States but also around the world, in- tional Korean heating method. Greatly im- of Oriental art, Okura used the building as an stone.” The original heating system was built cluding Europe and Asia. Naturally, all the build- pressed, Wright applied the method to floors of art museum. Okura amassed an enormous for- by laying stone plates over flues installed be- ings he designed draw great attention. When the Imperial Hotel. After returning to America, tune through banking, trade and public works neath a floor. A fire hole was made at one cor- there are rumors that any of these buildings are he again used the system for many houses. and construction projects in Korea under the Korean Traditional Architecture 15 | 16

shelter of the colonial government. He founded with Baron Okura, chief of my patrons repre- the Okura Group with his wealth accumulated senting the Mikado. It is desperately uncom- in Korea. Using his wealth he made friends fortable in Tokyo in winter--damp clammy cold with many high-ranking courtiers and earned that almost never amounts to freezing or even the title of baron. frost--but harder to keep warm there than any- where I have been, unless Italy. The universal Unfortunately, the Jaseondang hall was de- heat is from hibachi--a round vessel sitting on stroyed in the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923. the floor filled with white ashes, several sticks The granite foundation survived and was left of charcoal thrust down into the ashes all but a abandoned on the grounds of what is now Hotel few inches. This projecting charcoal is lighted 5. The stone foundation Okura. Professor Kim found it, and as a result of of Jaseondang, returned and glows--incandescent. Everyone sits around from Japan in 1996, is now efforts to elicit public support over years, suc- the hibachi, every now and then stretching out displayed on the yard near ceeded in returning it in 1996. Damaged in fire, Geoncheong Palace where the hand over it for a moment--closing the hand Emperor Myeongseong the stones could not be used for the reconstruc- as though grasping at something. The result un- was killed by Japanese as- tion of the crown prince’s residence, which fol- 5 sassins in 1895. satisfactory. To us... lowed soon. They are now displayed for public “A Miracle. The climate had changed. ugly electric heat fixtures (dangerous too in a viewing on the Gyeongbok Palace compound “Well, although we knew we should shiver, we Changed? No, but it wasn’t the coffee or saki. bathroom) were eliminated. I’ve always hated near Geoncheong Palace, where Empress My- accepted the Baron’s invitation to dine--he had It was Spring, that’s all. We were cozy, warm radiators. Here was the opportunity to digest eongseong, wife of Emperor Gojong, was mur- a number of houses scattered around the Em- and happy again--kneeling there on the floor all that paraphernalia within the building--cre- dered by Japanese assassins in 1895. pire. As expected, the dinning room was so cold mats. An indescribable warmth: no heating vis- ating not a heated interior but creating climate- that I couldn’t eat--only pretending to eat and ible nor was it felt as such directly. It was really -healthful, dustless, serene. Also, the presence Professor Kim’s account provided the clue to for some nineteen or twenty courses. After din- a matter not of heating at all but an affair of of heat thus integral and beneath makes lower my puzzle, leading me to Wright’s autobiogra- ner the Baron let the way below to the ‘Korean climate. Organic heat! temperatures desirable. Sixty degrees seems for phy. Indeed, he wrote about gudeul and cases room.’ So it was called. This room was about normal human beings sufficient. But neighbors of his application in considerable detail over “A Japanese graduate of Harvard interpreted twelve by twenty-four, ceiling seven or eight coming in from super-heated houses would feel three pages in his book, An Autobiography. His what the Baron now explained. The Korean feet, I should say. A red felt drugget covered cool at first. A natural climate is generated in- account goes as the following: room meant a room heated under the floor. The 4. Jaseondang recon- the floor. Walls were severely plain, a soft pale stead of an artificial forced condition--the natu- heat of a fire outside one corner of the floor was structed at its original site ral condition as a matter of course much more in Gyeongbok Palace in “...In Japan to commence building the Imperial yellow in color. We knelt there for conversation drawn back and forth underneath the floor in tile Seoul in 1999 healthful. Hotel, winter of 1914, we were invited to dine and Turkish coffee on yellow zabatons. ducts, the floor forming the top of the flues (or ducts), made by the partitions, the smoke and “...There is no other ‘ideal heat.’ Not even the surplus heat going up and out of a tall chimney heat of the sun.” at the opposite corner to the corner where the Considering the fact that Okura held the title fire was burning. of baron at the time and the timing of the re- “The indescribable comfort of being warmed location of Jaseondang, it seemed clear that from below was a discovery--sitting warm, feet Okura Kihachiro was “the Baron” in Wright’s warm. account.

“Immediately I arranged for electric heating el- Closing the book I found myself overwhelmed ements beneath bathrooms in the Imperial Ho- with emotion. While I was so excited to hear tel--dropping the ceiling of the bathroom to cre- about the excellence of gudeul in a classroom ate a space beneath the bathroom floor above, in a foreign country, I now felt solemn with my each in which to generate heat. The tile floor eyes wet with tears. and built-in tile baths were thus always warm. It was pleasant to go in one’s bare feet into the 4 bathroom. This experience was a success. All Natural Heritage 17 | 18

Pioneer Plants on Dokdo Islets

Text by Pak Jae-hong | professor at the Department of Biology, Kyungpook National University Photos by Seo Yeong-u / Topic photo Agency

1

Dokdo is a group of volcanic islets sitting on ties. These “pioneer plants” deserve special at- 1. A general view of Dokdo islets the eastern edge of Korean territory in the East tention in the study of botanical succession in 2. The Western Islet Sea, adjacent to the northwest corner of the Pa- a specific region as much as “climax forest” of cific Ocean. The rocky islets are 87.4km away plans that have reached a mature stage of natu- 3. The Eastern Islet from Ulleungdo, the nearest island from them. ral succession. Administratively they are at 1-96, Dodong-ri, Given that Dokdo has never been linked to any Ulleung-eup, Ulleung County, North Gyeong- land, it seems curious how the plants arrived sang Province. The distance to Oki Island, part there. Seeds travel in many ways. Oftentimes, of Japan’s Shimane Prefecture, is 160km. their size or composition dictates modes of Dokdo is relatively young, created 4.6 to 2.5 dispersal. Some are carried by wind, some by million years ago as a result of three rounds of water or by animals by being eaten or stuck to volcanic eruptions. It mostly consists of steep feathers, while others shoot out of pods to fly rocky slopes with sand or sandy soil that is away or simply fall to the ground beside the only 20-30cm deep because of severe erosion parent plant. Overall, 41 of the 50 native plants in a windy and rainy climate. The strong winds on Dokdo were scattered by wind (anemo- scatter sea fog carrying salt from the seawater, chore), eight kinds by animals (zoochore) and 2 and the salty soil forms a harsh environment for one kind by water (hydrochore). plants on the islets. Dandelion seeds, with very light and flurry Some 60 kinds of plants inhabit the islets, most parachute-like structures, flew into Dokdo as did those of pampas grass which have feathers of them herbaceous plants with short stalks and to keep them afloat in the air while traveling short roots. Among these, some 50 kinds are across the sea. New Zealand spinach, a flower- natural inhabitants. The rest have been artifi- ing shrub also known as tetragonia, found its cially introduced, and few big trees are found. way to Dokdo as its corky seeds can travel long With their topsoil in an oligotrophic, or poorly distances on the sea. Some seeds have air bags nourished, state the islets can only accommo- inside or thick skin that keeps them from sink- date plants with strong adaptability and repro- ing. ductive power. Particularly, those plants which settled in such a hostile environment ahead of Birds play an important role in seed disper- 3 others must have possessed exceptional capaci- sal. They are actually the most effective ani- Natural Heritage 19 | 20

mals in sustaining a plant system. Birds can out most conspicuously in the woods to attract reach tall tree tops or any branch tips, or any the birds’ attention; black comes next. Red out-of-the-way spots to pick fruits. When the also means that the fruit is ripe. Also, fleshy or fruits are eaten, they are digested but the seeds drupaceous fruits are soft and nutritious, and are pass through the birds’ digestive tract and are easy to swallow. Asparagus schoberioides has dropped in other locations. In order to fly birds red drupaceous fruits, stony within and fleshy need to stay light so they eat little and often, without. It is believed to have been introduced which causes frequent droppings. Since birds to Dokdo via birds visiting the island. have no teeth there’s little danger of seeds be- Dokdo largely consists of two rock masses- ing broken. Also, seeds stay for a short while -the Eastern Islet (Dongdo) and the Western inside birds, which suggests there’s little time Islet (Seodo). From the viewpoint of botanical for digestive juices to seep into the seeds. ecology and distribution, however, the island is Red, fleshy or drupaceous fruits have the high- largely divided into three regions--rocks in the 4. Black-tailed gulls est chance of being eaten by birds. Red stands early stage of weathering, steep slopes where

weathering has proceeded to a certain degree, 5. A colony of Sedum oryzi- and joints in the form of narrow valleys. Differ- folium ent pioneer plants have settled in each region 6. Sedum oryzifolium

depending on their geological features and the 5 6 7. Aster spathulifolius degree of weathering on wall rocks. The rocky and strong winds. It grows to some 5-7cm tall, 60cm tall in the shape of a tree. Several stems region has Sedum oryzifolium; the slopy re- crawling to the sides. The leaves are somewhat sprout from the root neck to grow diagonally. gion has Aster spathulifolius; and the joints thick but roots are very fine so they can settle have Cyrtomium falcatum. It opens violet flowers resembling chrysanthe- into tiny rock cracks. Stems take root from ev- mums from July to November, hence the Kore- Dokdo has no forest now but pollen analysis ery joint when they touch the ground. It propa- an name haeguk, meaning the “sea chrysanthe- indicates that it once had lush woods. Several gates through seeds as well as stems. Flowers mum.” In the autumn Dokdo looks resplendent wild spindle trees are found inside the sea cave open in May to July, spreading out yellow car- on the Eastern Islet, which is hardly accessible pets around Dokdo. with these flowers. It grows out of craggy rocks by man. It is presumed that spindle trees have along the eastern and western coasts of south- Aster spathulifolius formed a climax forest in the process of botani- ern Korea as well as many islands, including cal succession on the islet. This is a perennial grass which grows some 25- Dokdo, Ulleungdo and Jejudo.

Let’s take a brief look at some of Dokdo’s most representative pioneer plants.

Sedum oryzifolium

Resembling the garden portulaca in the shape of flowers and leaves, this crawling plant grows around warm temperate zones around Asia. In Korea it grows on Dokdo, Ulleungdo, Jejudo and other islands. In Korean it is called ddang chaeseonghwa, meaning “crawling rose moss,” in a similar context with Euphorbia humifusa, Aralia contientalis and Physalis angulata, all small plants growing horizontally.

This is a perennial semi-green plant that grows from cracks on rocks with little topsoil. It has 4 evolved as a tough plant, surviving barren soil 7 Natural Heritage 21 | 22

Artemisia japonica

This is a kind of Artemisia growing around in- land mountains and fields as well as the shores and rocky regions of Dokdo and Ulleungdo. It is a perennial grass with slit leaves. The spe- cies growing along shores (gaet jebissuk) have slenderer leaves than those of inland areas (je- 10. Euonymus japonica bissuk). Several branches develop from near 11. A colony of pampas 10 grass the root and grow to some 60-90cm, diagonally along slopes or in areas exposed to strong sea Euonymus japonica wind. Flowers open in July to September, and fruits ripen in October. A group of Euonymus japonica, or spindle trees, were recently found to be forming a cli- Cyrtomium falcatum max forest in a sea cave, named Cheonjang- Also called holly fern, this is the only pterido- gul, meaning the “ceiling cave,” in the East- phyte on Dokdo. Like the edible fern brake, ern Islet. These trees, some 120 years old, are it propagates through spores but grows into a some 5-7cm around the root necks and some perennial evergreen grass, which is suitable 20-30cm tall, surviving the strong sea winds by for gardens or indoors. It grows on cliffs in the achieving a mat form. The crown of the biggest woods or moist soil in shady areas in Dokdo, tree is 7m by 5m. This natural reserve area was Ulleungdo and Jejudo as well as coastal regions designated Natural Monument No. 336 on No- in central and southern Korea. It also grows in vember 16, 1982. Southeast Asia. In Korean it is called dokkaebi Dokdo is an ideal place where the processes of 8 soegobi. botanical succession can be brought to light at 8. Artemisia japonica once through a study of pioneer plants and cli- 9. Cyrtomium falcatum max forests. The research can also trace the nat- ural and manmade damage to plants that have occurred on the islets, which will help guide restoration of the flora. The research outcome can be also used for international exchange of information concerning botanical geography and successions. 11

9 The King and Pagodas 23 | 24

ter of King Jinpyeong of Silla, was very beauti- and the princess finally came to learn that he ful. So he shaved his head to disguise himself was Seodong, the Yam Boy. She accepted the and went to Gyeongju, the capital of Silla, with song as reality and indeed they came to sleep in a large sack of wild sweet potatoes. He made each other’s arms. Romantic Legend about King Mu and friends with many children by giving them his When they arrived in Baekje the princess sweet potatoes. And he taught them a song he showed him the gold that her mother had wrote. Stone Pagodas of Mireuksa Temple given her, saying, “Darling, here is a sack of Princess Seonhwa has a secret love, gold. This will give us a comfortable life.” Se- odong asked, breaking into laughter, “What is When’s she marrying the man she hides? this?” She said, “This is gold. It will make us Text and photos by Kim Deok-mun | Architectural Research Division, National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage By night she goes to meet her love, rich for a hundred years.” Then he said, “All these years I’ve been burying piles of this stuff Seodong, to sleep in each other’s arms. in the field where I pick my sweet potatoes.” As the day breaks they part in sorrow, Amazed, the princess said, “This is the most Half of its grand structure lost to time, the is vaguely known to have been erected during precious treasure in the world. If you remember What’s she going to do? western stone pagoda of Mireuksa stands as the reign of King Mu of the Baekje Dynasty, where you buried your gold, why don’t you dig a solitary witness to a resplendent Buddhist who ruled from A.D. 600 to 641. King Mu is Soon the song was heard everywhere around it up and send it to the palace of my parents?” temple, which once thrived under royal patron- known as the legendary Seodong, or the “Yam Gyeongju, eventually reaching the queen’s He replied, “Sure, I can do so.” age. Thunderstruck and weather-beaten but Boy,” who gathered wild sweet potatoes from quarters in the palace. All the courtiers ap- After Seodong retrieved all the gold that he had the fields to support his poor mother. He mar- still uniquely impressive, the pagoda may seem pealed to the king to calm the scandal, so the buried, he consulted the famous monk, Dhar- ried a princess of the neighboring kingdom of somber; it may be seen to complete the final poor princess was banished to the countryside. ma Master Jimyeong, at Sajasa Temple in Mt. Silla and became the king with her assistance. phase of its karma, straddling the present and As she departed the grieved queen gave her a Yonghwa for his advice on how to transport the future worlds envisioned by the founder the The romance of the poor but wise and hand- bushel of pure gold and bade farewell. gold to Gyeongju. “Bring the gold to me as I temple, with its lost half buried in an endless some man and the beautiful princess is docu- have the magic power to transport it,” the monk As the princess headed to her place of exile, chasm of the past. mented in “Memorabilia of the Three King- said. The princess wrote a letter to her father Seodong appeared and offered to be her guard. doms” (Samguk Yusa), written by the monk and mother, and Seodong moved the gold to the The construction of Mireuksa, the Temple of Though she didn’t know him the princess was historian Iryeon in the 13th century. The story temple yard. With his magic power the monk Maitreya, which now exists as vast ruins beneath attracted to his beautiful and trustworthy ap- 2. An artist’s conception of goes as follows: sent all the gold to Gyeongju that night. the Mireuksa compound Mt. Yonghwa in Iksan, North Jeolla Province, pearance so she agreed. As they traveled to- restored in its original is shrouded in mysterious legends. The temple Seodong heard that Seonhwa, the third daugh- gether they gradually felt close to each other When he received the gold and read his daugh- state 1. A general view of the ru- ins of Mireuksa Temple

1 2 The King and Pagodas 25 | 26

excavation. A worship hall built on the site draws one of the largest Buddhist temples ever built ral curve on the lintels crossing the sides. Col- endless streams of monks and lay believers. across Korea. umn technique of wooden architecture was cop- ied in a stone structure with amazing precision. In “Memorabilia of the Three Kingdoms,” the The site has remains of three separate com- fairy tale love of a country boy and a princess pounds, each with the main worship hall and a In the style of a multi-storied pavilion, propor- gives way to an episode about their initiative in nine-storied pagoda standing to the south sur- tions of the pagoda diminish with each higher the foundation of Mireuksa Temple as the king rounded with corridors on all four sides and in- level. Each story of the pagoda has a roof but and the queen. The story runs as follows: terconnected to one another. The pagoda on the brackets and purlins were boldly simplified in central compound was built of wood, and those corbelled eaves. The elaborate bracket systems One day, as the king and the queen were re- on the eastern and western compounds made of wooden pavilion were drastically modified turning from a visit to Sajasa Temple, they of stone. The three horizontal compounds rep- in simple tiers of corbels to suit a massive stone saw three images of Maitreya rising from the resented the three domains of past, present and structure. The effect is incredibly refreshing. surface of the pond beneath Mt. Yonghwa. The future as perceived in the Buddhist cosmos. The roof stones with corbelled eaves, smartly royal carriage immediately halted and in awe The founder of the temple, King Mu, probably upturned toward the edges, look pleasant and the king and the queen worshipped the myste- wished to realize all of the three domains in the vigorous. Thus the whole edifice attains an in- rious images. Then the queen said, “It is my present world for his people. Or, he might have advertent harmony. wish to have a large temple erected here.” The wished to present his three lives in the immense king accepted her wish on the spot and again The pagoda consists of stone elements weigh- sanctuary. sought the counsel of Jimyeong on how to fill ing some 1-3 tons each, but its overall impres- in the pond. Coincidence or not, the western pagoda stands sion is far from heavy. It is delightfully elegant, alone in the sprawling ruins today, with the up- a result of the ingenious artistry of a master In one night the monk exercised his magic per half of its majestic edifice demolished. The architect, which defies description. Eroded by 4. A stone lantern of the power to move a mountain and drop it upside eastern and central pagodas were destroyed the elements over 14 centuries, the antiquated Baekje period (18 B.C. – A.D. 660) excavated from 3 down into the pond to turn it into flat land. along with surrounding structures long ago. gray surface of the stone now looks jagged and the Mireuksa site Soon a magnificent temple was founded, with Probably, they disappeared into the turning 3. The eastern pagoda re- ter’s letter saying that she was happily married, rough. The rugged texture of the stone bespeaks 5. A hand of a gilt bronze built in 1994. three images of Maitreya (Mireuk in Korean), wheel of time. Even the western pagoda has a panoramic vista of history. Facing the wide image of half-seated Mai- King Jinpyeong was very pleased. He wrote a treya in meditation worship halls, pagodas and many buildings lost half of its edifice as if to show that it exist- fertile plain of Gimje, the pagoda stands as a letter to the princess inquiring how she was do- surrounded by corridors. Then a sign with the ed through half of the future envisioned by its silent testimony to the messiahnic message of 6. A roof ridge-end ing and expressing his wonder at her gift. After ornamental tile retrieved name Mireuksa was hung. The temple was founder. The eastern pagoda, recently rebuilt in redemption from Maitreya conveyed through a from the ruins of Mireuksa the incident Seodong was even more loved and built with the assistance of many engineers and nine stories with an ornate finial and glittering sagacious ruler. Temple respected by the people of Baekje and finally sculptors sent by King Jinpyeong from Silla. metal wind bells, seems markedly offbeat but it was chosen as their king. This great temple, weather-beaten and moss- may symbolize the regenerating cycle of time. The story contains both historical facts and covered, is still standing. Though incomplete, the western pagoda rep- legendary accoutrements. A 17th century travel Mireuksa was thus founded to commemorate resents an important milestone in East Asian account written by the Joseon period scholar the emergence of three Maitreya images from pagoda architecture. A rare legacy of transition Kang Hu-jin, “Record of Travel to Geumma the pond near Sajasa on Mt. Yonghwa. The from wooden to stone pagodas, it is a stone pa- County” (Yu Geummaseong gi) has Ogeum Maitreya triad is believed to govern the three goda built in the style of earlier wooden proto- 5 village, meaning “five gold village,” where Se- realms of past, present and future in the cosmic types. The first story, more or less intact when odong is said to have spent his childhood and concept of time in Buddhism. Archaeological compared with the more severely destroyed gathered so much gold as to become a king. excavations have confirmed what the founding upper stories, has all the elements of wooden The small village still exists at the foot of Mt. legend suggests--three sets of worship hall and architecture. It has cornerstones, columns and Yonghwa. It also mentions Sajaam Hermit- pagoda, a unique layout in the ancient Korean lintels, skillfully dressed and dovetailed using age, not Sajasa Temple, where Dharma Master temple architecture. The temple ruins, strewn traditional carpentry techniques. The columns Jimyeong lived, located near the summit of Mt. with numerous cornerstones and stone slabs have gentle flowing lines of entasis; the- col Yonghwa (or Mt. Mireuk). The hermitage site that formed foundations for buildings, cover umns at the four corners are some 3 centimeters 4 6 was recently confirmed through archaeological some 200,000 square meters. It is veritably taller than those in the middle, creating a natu- Photo Gallery

Famous Scenic Spots in Korea Seongnagwon

Photos by Kim Jung-man Natural Heritage Division, National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage Photo Gallery 29 | 30

A brief history of Seongnagwon

In the heart of a metropolis crowded with sky- the capital, where they frequently visited for scrapers, there is a “paradise” that preserves leisure or temporarily stayed. Some used these pristine natural scenery reminiscent of great places to consolidate alliances to increase their landscape paintings. Seongnagwon, literally power, and some to get away from the mun- a “paradise in town,” is one of the few wood- dane world of politics and find solace for their land gardens of the Joseon period (1391-1910) soul. Woodland gardens built during this period remaining in the Seoul area. The garden was are characterized by a desire to bring part of first built for Hwang Ji-sa during the reign of nature into a private space for exclusive enjoy- King Sunjo (r. 1800-1834) but is better known ment instead of appreciating nature as it is. today as the country villa of Sim Sang-eung, Main House Seongnagwon stands out for its ingenious de- who served as personnel minister for King sign to harmonize manmade elements with a Cheoljong (r. 1849-1863). Lord Euichin (1877- Of the two pavilions in Seongnagwon, the main rocky gorge to sublimate its beauty. The hilly 1955), the fifth son of King Gojong, later used house was built later and Lord Euichin lived natural contours were enlivened to create curv- it as a detached palace for 35 years. there. The prince’s literati friends often gathered ing promenades. Ponds were made on natural in the front yard to discuss matters of common Wealthy aristocrats of the late Joseon period rock bases to form irregular banks. concern. During the colonial period the yard was built country houses in the scenic suburbs of used for laundry, pressing and rickshaw garage. Photo Gallery 31 | 32

Songseokjeong

A T-shaped pavilion named Songseokjeong, tree standing next to it could grow without or the Pavilion of Pine and Stone, perches on touching it. (The tree was recently transplant- the upper pond. Supported with stone plinths, ed a little away from the pavilion but withered the pavilion was uniquely situated under a so it now hardly looks uncommon.) Notably big pine tree, a bold concept rarely found larger than most pleasure pavilions of Joseon in traditional Korean architecture. Big trees literati and resembling a palace structure, the were usually kept away from buildings out of pavilion was often used for banquets. It has concern that the trees might wither with age seven bays on the front and two bays on the and fall on the structures. This pavilion was side. The present pavilion was rebuilt in 1953 instead built to face the south as desired, with after the original structure was burnt down in enough room above the roof so the big pine the late colonial period. Photo Gallery 33 | 34

Yeongbyeokji

Seongnagwon has two ponds with natu- ral shorelines connected to each other with rocky waterways. One is the upper pond with Songsokjeong pavilion and the other is named Yeongbyeokji, or the Pond of Blue Shadow. The water flows into the upper pond along a rocky gorge from the valley above. The ponds were formed by taking advantage of natural rock beds to pile up stones along the sides where needed. Place names and poems are carved on the stony sides. A rocky islet that used to stand at the center of Yeongbyeokji is now lost. The pond is surrounded by lush woods of zelkova, maple and pine trees. Foreigner’s View 35 | 36

and little-understood by both religious believ- ers and scholars of Korean culture. They are often regarded as somewhat Korean-Shamanist or Buddhist deities, and sometimes depicted accordingly, but they actually derive from Sinseon Paintings Chinese Daoist traditions which have been en- hanced by indigenous Korean traditions. Their icons are generally not venerated in the Bud- dhist ways or supplicated for real-world ben- on Temple Walls 2 efits in the Korean-Shamanic fashion, but are mainly used for symbolic-decorative purposes.

Sinseon are sages living high in the unpol- Text and Photos by David A. Mason | Professor of Tourism at Kyung Hee University in Seoul, luted and beautiful mountains among auspi- researcher on religious tourism to Korea’s mountains, author of six books on Korean culture, including Spirit of the Mountains; his website is www.san-shin.org cious animals, plants and landforms, far from the corrupt and chaotic ordinary human societ- ies, subsisting on dew, pine needles and other herbs. They are fully-enlightened, having at- tained some degree or combination of physical 3 and spiritual immortality (or at least extremely long life here on earth) through self-cultivation and inner-alchemical practices. At peace with themselves and the world, they behave spon- taneously, wisely, effortlessly and happily in excellent health with the smooth skin and in- nocent faces of children despite their advanced age. They have been described and depicted as having the ability to jump between mountain 4 peaks or fly upon auspicious animals such as white cranes, dragons, deer or turtles; they are Korean national culture. From this basis there 2. An immortal spirit and a tiger also immune to seasonal heat and cold, dis- started to grow a Korean version of Daoist phi- 3. An immortal spirit and eases and poverty, untouched by the ordinary losophy called Sinseon-sasang (spirit-immortal a deer 1 human problems. They were thought to have ideology), which became relatively widespread 4. An immortal spirit riding 1. An image of a Daoist im- Visitors to Korean Buddhist temples discover standing boulders and temples or shrines in the various other magical powers, including abili- in Silla and was then handed down to all sub- a dragon mortal painted on a temple ties to heal diseases in or bring other benefits sequent Korean eras. It may be considered the wall and enjoy images of Sinseon or “Spirit-Immor- Korean mountains named after them, clearly tals” painted on the interior or exterior walls of demonstrating the popularity and auspicious to ordinary humans who encountered them. As fundament and fount of much that is distinc- demigods, they form a bridge between human- tively Korean in traditional thought, cultural the religious buildings. These Sinseon figures character of this Daoist term and the super- ity and the spirits of Heaven and Earth, and can practices and artworks. are popular and frequently-seen demigods with natural beings that it represents. These include assist in intermediating between these realms. deep roots in traditional Korean spiritual cul- “Sinseon-bong” summits on well-known sa- There are many cases of historical Koreans who ture. They also occur fairly commonly in tra- cred mountains such as Seorak-san, Sobaek- Indigenous Korean Shamanic culture con- are recorded and believed to have attained the ditional Korean artworks such as paintings and san, Mungyeong-saejae, Sogni-san, Hwangak- tained a strong component of highly valuing semi-divine Sinseon status. The most famous pottery. There is a very wide variety in their san, Naejang-san and Jiri-san; “Sinseon-dae” longevity-in-good-health, together with the among them is Choe Chi-won (856-?), a bril- artistic motifs, displaying multiple religious and “Sinseon-am” sites in Busan City and wisdom and honorable integrity that old age liant Confucian scholar-official from Gyeongju connections; people like their images because elsewhere, and the famous Buddhist temple brings. In fact this value-factor is such a wide- who spent decades wandering Korea’s south- spread and notable component of Korean tradi- ern area and living at Buddhist temples in the they appear colorful, fanciful, wise, friendly Danseok-san Sinseon-sa in Gyeongju. tional thought, cultural practices and artworks deep sacred mountains, learning and practicing and living in harmony with nature. However, the identity, characteristics and func- that it has been designated by more than a few the Daoist arts. He is thought to have ended his In addition, there are many peaks, cliffs, out- tion of these common figures remain obscure scholars and observers as the distinct root of earth-bound days by becoming a Sinseon, at Foreigner’s View 37 | 38

a pine-tree and often a waterfall visible, with There are other Sinseon paintings with elements a grand view. Actual such places are easily at least reminiscent of Korea’s mythical found- found while hiking among the Korean crags, ing king Dan-gun Wanggeom, which seems and are often referred to as Sinseon-dae (spirit- natural because he was a demigod according to immortal’s terrace or platform). In the Korean the Samguk-Yusa, who at the end of his reign view, this is the sort of place on which Bud- never died but retreated into a holy mountain to dhist meditations and Daoist yogas are best become its Spirit, and is therefore closely con- performed and where spiritual attainments or nected with both Koreas native Sansin and its enlightenments take place. Daoist Sinseon traditions.

In the more elaborate Sinseon paintings there None of these iconic paintings are worshiped is a rich background of mountains and for- or venerated in contemporary Korean religious est, with swirling clouds and possibly the sun, culture. The functions of these Sinseon fig- and other ship-jangsaeng (Ten Symbols of ures being painted on temple walls and other places seems to be to infuse those shrines or Longevity) elements. There is usually at least objects with the Korean Sinseon-sasang (spirit- 5 one gnarled pine tree near the Sinseon; these immortal ideology), so that those who observe 5. Sinseondae, meaning symbolize longevity and adaptive survival the peak of Gaya-san or at a few other possible non-Buddhist deities within Buddhist temple them may be reminded of this great tradition, an “immortal spirit’s plat- despite adverse conditions. The landscape form” sites. complexes. They may also be found on other and subconsciously gain in health, longevity, temple or shrine Halls, most often painted on backgrounds range from simple and cartoon- 6. A picture of a Daoist im- harmony with nature and wisdom. The earliest Korean depiction of Sinseon fig- ish to more elaborate works derived from the mortal on the ceiling of a upper interior or exterior wall-panels, but rare- ures that we know of are paintings within Buddhist temple hall ly ever in their own formal icons or formally East Asian Daoist/Neo-Confucian tradition of Goguryeo tombs, including Sinseon riding a enshrined. They are depicted in a wide and col- grand landscape-paintings. Other symbols of crane, dragon, turtle or phoenix; they are play- good luck, fertility, religiousity and longevity orful profusion of styles and motifs. 7-9. An immortal spirit and ing musical instruments, making religious of- are included in the most elaborate examples, a boy attendant ferings or holding banners. The Sinseon in these shrine-wall-paintings are such as an incense-burner, sacred books, mush- usually depicted as elderly men, usually one in Most of the thousands of Buddhist temples in rooms, one or more tigers, flowers, deer, cranes each painting but sometimes several. Although South Korea include a special folk-spirit shrine and turtles nearby. two of China’s most famous “Eight Immor- which enshrines popular indigenous-Shamanic, tals” are beautiful women, Korean Sinseon Youthful dongja servants, male or female, may Chinese-Daoist-derived or folk-Buddhist dei- are almost never female, which may indicate be shown attending their Sinseon ‘masters’, ties. They are generally found behind or beside the more patriarchal nature of Korean cul- bringing or offering auspicious items, brewing the Main Worship Hall. They are usually named 7 ture; usually the only females in these paint- green tea or herbal medicine for them. Samseong-gak (Three Saints or Sages Shrine) ings are teenage or prepubescent serving-girls on the signboards above their doorways. Sin- There are Buddhist-style Sinseon paintings (who may be depicted as biseon or seonnyeo, seon are usually found painted on panels of the that are conflations with icons of the Nahan roughly equivalent to Western female-fairies or inner or outer walls of these special shrines for (Buddha’s disciples) and depictions of great angels). Buddhist masters, mixing the ideals of Seon The Sinseon may have a bald head or white (meditational) Buddhist monks together with hair, usually a white or grey beard, with kind the Daoist concept of Immortals and the indig- 8 eyes and a smile. They are usually in traditional enous Korean Sinseon-sasang. silken robes, and may have their heads covered There are also distinctively Daoist-style and with shawls or Daoist “cloud-caps” like retired Confucian-style Sinseon, some of which are gentleman used to wear. They may be seated in similar to paintings of kings or wise Confu- some casual manner or standing, or riding on a cian sages; there are some that are quite similar mount (white crane, deer or tiger is most popu- to Sansin (Mountain-spirits)-- even a few that lar, but turtles and dragons are also possible). cross the border and can be considered actual They are almost always depicted as dwelling mountain-spirit icons due to a full inclusion of 6 on a rocky cliff-top, peak or alpine ridge with qualifying elements. 9 A Brush with Lively Touch 39 | 40

Colorful Tomb Murals Recreate the Lives and Faiths of Goguryeo People

Text by Lee Tae-ho | professor at the Department of Art History, Myongji University

Photos by the National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage / Yemack 2 3 4

day life of the deceased person. This method Goguryeo enjoyed during its later years. 2. A pair of octagonal col- umns at the entrance to was found mostly in tombs from the 4th-6th the burial chamber of the Goguryeo tomb murals show certain changes centuries. Recent studies led to the assertion Tomb of Twin Columns in Murals on Lime or Stone Walls attained by Goguryeo, a strong warrior state in their religious theme and style, but there is South Pyongan Province, that a secco method using a binding medium from the late 5th century which ruled a vast territory across East Asia not a single pair of paintings that resemble each There are some 100 mural tombs dated to on a dried surface was applied. Whichever the 3. Part of the mural on the during its prime years. other in motif or description. Human figures the Goguryeo period of the 4th-7th centuries. case, Goguryeo had superb skill in mixing pure ceiling of the burial cham- from the same social class are all clad in differ- ber of the Tomb of Twin lime mortar with few impurities. Therefore, the Some 30 of them are located around Tungkou Tomb murals of Goguryeo are divided largely ent costumes and even the identical motifs are Columns murals remain remarkably fresh except on por- (Tonggu in Korean pronunciation), an early into two categories: those painted on a thin depicted in manners that differ slightly, if not 4. A mural decorating a capital of the ancient Korean kingdom, and Jian layer of wet, fresh lime mortar or plaster, and tions where the plaster has peeled off. side of the lantern ceiling radically. Such stunning diversity and original- of the burial chamber in (Jiban) and Huanyin (Hwanin) in Jilin Province those done on water-cleansed stone surfaces. Stone murals were done directly on the surface ity is telltale evidence that the painters earnest- the Great Gangseo Tomb in northeast China. The rest of some 70 tombs The former technique, called wet fresco, was of broad stone slabs or cut stones forming the ly strived to choose the most salient motifs and are scattered in the broad Pyongyang region, used the most. The smooth plaster surface was interior of a burial chamber. This method was the best ways to present them in view of the 1. An overall view of the another capital of Goguryeo, from Suncheon made by covering a wall, built with brick or possible only in areas where high quality granite social status and life of the owner of each tomb. Middle Gangseo Tomb, in Pyongan Province to Anak and Sariwon in stone, either dressed or undressed, with lime dated from the late 6th to was produced, which explains how Goguryeo As a result, they explored a pleasant variety of the early 7th centuries, in Hwanghae Province. Murals in these tombs mortar. The painting, done before the plaster developed the prominent decorative technique subjects and decorative designs, including the South Pyongan Province eloquently attest to the high artistic standard dried, usually depicted scenes from the every- not known anywhere else in the world. Most sun, the moon and heavenly constellations, famously, Anak Tomb No. 3 dated to the mid- portraits of the buried persons and scenes from 4th century has brilliant stone murals. It is the their everyday lives, anecdotes and legends, earliest known tomb with stone murals. Other the guardian deities of the four cardinal direc- outstanding examples are the Tomb of Four tions, auspicious animals and plants, images of Divinities (Sasinchong) at Honam-ri, the Great immortals, lotus flowers, clouds, honeysuckle Gangseo Tomb (Gangseo Daemyo) and the vines and arabesque scrolls. With open minds Middle Gangseo Tomb (Gangseo Jungmyo), and self-confidence they embraced a broad the Tomb of Four Divinities (Sasinchong) and spectrum of cultures spanning from China’s the Nos. 4 and 5 of the Five Helmet Tombs Southern and Northern Dynasties, Sui and (Ohoebun) in Tungkou, all decorated with the Tang periods to Central and Western Asia and images of the four guardian deities and dated to further away from Eastern Europe. Such an the late 6th to the early 7th centuries. The ad- attitude was based on the magnanimous and vanced skills shown in these murals had much exalted capacity for cultural exchange of the 1 to do with the thriving economy and culture Goguryeo people. A Brush with Lively Touch 41 | 42

9. The Mural Tomb of 5. The ceiling mural in the Susan-ri in South Pyongan burial chamber of Deokh- Province, dated the late wa-ri Tomb No. 2 from the 5th century, has a paint- late 5th to the early 6th ing that depicts the buried century in South Pyongan couple in a parade. Province 10. A copy of the painting 6. An image of the moon of parade in the Mural with a tortoise and a rabbit 5 6 9 Tomb of Susan-ri

A notable case in point is the structure of tals, and auspicious animals, representing the ceilngs in most Goguryeo mural tombs built religious faith of Goguryeo, which combined under Western influence from the 4th to the 7th Taoism and Buddhism. centuries. They have a lantern ceiling, or moju- By their structure and the subject of murals and rim cheonjang in Korean, with triangular cor- painting style, the some 100 extant Goguryeo bels projecting from the wall across each cor- mural tombs are largely divided into three peri- ner to narrow down the ceiling space and create 10 ods: the early period from the mid-4th century a vault. This type of ceiling widely applied in to early 5th century; the middle period from the ed as wearing Chinese-style robes and using visiting a temple, worshipping Buddha, attend- Goguryeo burial chambers has its stylistic mid-5th century to the mid-6th century, and the Chinese utensils to emphasize their authority. ing a Buddhist festival, dancing, hunting and roots in Roman temples, Indian and Central late period from the late 6th century to the early Large processions and ceremonial receptions wrestling. Some figures in the Tomb of Twin Asian grottoes and Siberian nomadic homes. In 7th century. Murals of the early to middle peri- for courtiers at palaces and public offices are Columns (Ssangyeongchong), the Mural Tomb China, a very limited number of stone burial ods mainly have figure and genre paintings fea- presented, along with aristocratic mansions of Susan-ri and some other tombs in Pyong- chambers of Later Han and cave temples of the turing the tomb owners, while those of the late with a kitchen, butcher’s shop, coach house, yang region have human figures clad in Chi- Southern and Northern Dynasties period have period typically have murals of a single theme, stable and cowshed. Scenes from the everyday nese-style robes. But the pao robes are not seen similar ceilings. In many Goguryeo tombs, that is, the four guardian deities. life and merits of the tomb owner make fine in any of the tombs around Tungkou, includ- looking up at the ceiling inside the burial Scenes from Everyday Life genre paintings showing important customs of ing Jangcheon (Changchuan) Tomb No. 1, the chamber, one finds its symmetric structure to the time. Anak Tomb No. 3 (circa A.D. 357), Tomb of Dancers (Muyongchong), the Tomb of be divinely beautiful. The whole ceiling spaces The human figures in the murals of most tombs 7-8. The murals in Anak the Mural Tomb of Deokheung-ri (A.D. 408) Wrestlers (Gakjeochong) and the Three-Cham- Tomb No. 3 in Hwanghae were painted with the sun and the moon among around the Pyongyang region and Hwanghae Province, dated circa A.D. and Tomb No. 1 of Taeseong-ri belong to this ber Tomb (Samsilchong). constellations, arabesque scrolls, lotus designs, Province are believed to be the sanctified im- 357, feature portraits of its group. They indicate the ritual style of Gogu- owner and his wife. flying angels and heavenly musicians, immor- ages of tomb owners. They are typically depict- In some of the mural tombs from the middle ryeo tomb murals had been settled by the years period, paintings of the four guardian deities of King Gwanggaeto (r. 391-413), along with appear on the walls or ceilings, alongside por- the format of ceiling paintings. traits and genre pictures. Among these tombs In the middle period after the mid-5th century are Jangcheon Tomb No. 1, the Tomb of Danc- the solemn, sanctified portraits of tomb owners ers and the Three-Chamber Tomb near Tung- gave way to more common scenes from their kou; and the Mural Tomb of Yaksu-ri, the lives. They were depicted wearing a jacket Tomb of Twin Columns and the Tomb of the (jeogori) and pants (baji), instead of a robe, Four Guardian Deities (Sasinchong, or Suryeo- and engaging in everyday activities such as re- pchong, or the Tomb of Hunters) in the Pyong- ceiving guests, giving a farewell party, family yang district. Some special types of murals are 7 8 outing, watching entertainment performance, also found in tombs of the middle period, such A Brush with Lively Touch 43 | 44

vanished only very recently. This is also clear namic contrast of complementary colors, such evidence that the people of Goguryeo were an- as red and green, red and yellow, or green and cestors of present-day Koreans. brown, further add to the vitality of mysterious images. Vigorous Iconic Images of the Four Divinities The settlement of the four divinities as the pri- Paintings of the four guardian deities, or sas- mary themes of tomb murals suggests a cul- indo, had completely replaced genre pictures as tural syndrome and social change in Goguryeo. the predominant themes of tomb murals by the 11 12 The choice of the guardians for afterlife and late Goguryeo period of the late 6th to the early their painting style speak for the spirit and style 11. Copies of the danc- as the Lotus Flower Tomb (Yeonhwachong), robe-style overcoats. The two-piece suits show 7th centuries. The tomb structure was also uni- ing scenes painted on the of Goguryeo toward its final years. After the walls in the Tomb of Danc- the Tortoise Shell Tomb (Gwigapchong) and a pleasant aesthetic sense in color combina- fied in the single stone chamber style, while mid-6th century the Three Kingdoms of Gogu- ers, dated to the early 5th the Tomb of Circles (Hwanmunchong), deco- tion. They look fashionable even from modern earlier tombs had come in varied types such as century, in Jilin Province, ryeo, Baekje and Silla waged an increasingly northeastern China rated mainly with lotus designs, tortoise shells standards. Men’s suits harmonized yellow and multi-chambered, double-chambered or single- intense struggle for hegemony over the Korean and concentric circles, respectively. As the white, yellow and reddish brown, or black and chambered. At the same time, the four walls of 12. Hunting scenes painted peninsula. The political upheaval on Chinese on the walls in the Tomb of themes grew richer the painting techniques white or pink. Some women wore a black jacket the single chamber began to be decorated with Dancers mainland leading to unification under Sui and also advanced. The motifs were depicted more over a rainbow-colored skirt, and some wore a the four directional gods, i.e. the blue dragon Tang dynasties constantly influenced relations precisely with brighter coloring and depending white apron over a red coat. A black jacket had of the east, the white tiger of the west, the red among the Korean states. Amid such turmoil on motifs, vigorous or subtle linear techniques a red sash with arabesque design. Black polka phoenix of the south, and the black tortoise Goguryeo waged ceaseless armed conflicts were deftly employed. Taoist themes prevailed dots on white background, red dots on yellow, and serpent of the north. They also represented with neighbors and suffered defeats in spite of the ceiling paintings but with obvious Buddhist and various other designs attest to the rich color left, right, front and back. These iconic images its glorious past as an indomitable warrior state. influence as shown in lotus designs. sense of Goguryeo people. appear in stone murals of the aforementioned Internal politics turned increasingly chaotic as tombs in Jian, Jilin Province in northeast China The progress in tomb murals probably result- Top-class aristocrats wore black or dark brown the royal power waned under a coalition gov- and Pyongyang region, as well as the lime mu- ed from the stable power of Goguryeo after clothes decorated with ornate patterns stress- erning system of powerful aristocrats. While rals in Jinpa-ri Tomb No. 1 and No. 4, and Nae- it expanded into a huge kingdom and moved ing their dignity, while ordinary bureaucrats General Yeon Gaesomun (?-665), a fervent ad- ri Tomb No. 1, totaling some 10. the capital to Pyongyang in 427 under King and commoners wore white, yellow or reddish vocate of Taoism, wielded absolute power as a Jangsu (r. 413-491). A great majority of the ex- brown garments in simple patterns. The Mural The late Goguryeo tomb murals of the four dictator, the powers of the four directional gods tant Goguryeo mural tombs were built around Tomb of Deokhung-ri has paintings of figures divinities stand out prominently in East Asian to protect humans from evil spirits in the pres- Pyongyang from the mid-5th century to the in plain yellow, light green or reddish brown art history because of their ingenious beauty of ent world as well as afterlife came to be widely mid-6th century. Some 60 to 70 are dated to the garments, which were probably worn widely in form and gorgeous color schemes. The legend- believed. The vital images of the four guard- 4th to early 5th centuries, and about 10 were the Pyongyang region in the early 5th century. ary animals are rendered in fine linear drawings ian deities in tomb murals resulted from such built after the mid-6th century. Murals of the Murals in the Tomb of Dancers, the Three- expressing fluid but rigorous movements. Dy- popular faith. middle period stand out technically as well. Chamber Tomb and Jangcheon Tomb No. 1, 13. Images of the black tor- toise and serpent painted The life and spirit of the upper class are pre- all in Tungkou area and dated to the 5th cen- on the walls in the Great sented through realistic depiction of everyday tury, show pleasantly attractive sashes made of Gangseo Tomb. Dated from the late 6th to the early 7th scenes providing vivid glimpses into the Gogu- white or yellow fabric with red and black dots. centuries, the tomb is in ryeo society at the peak of its prosperity. South Pyongan Province. Not only the dresses but iron armor, carts and Dress styles of the men and women appearing double-storied pavilions depicted in Gogu- in the Goguryeo tomb murals of the 4th-6th ryeo tomb murals have stylistic twins among centuries as well as their dancing and wrestling artifacts unearthed from the old territories of scenes remarkably differ from those in Chi- Baekje and Silla, attesting to cultural homoge- nese paintings. As shown by these murals, both neity shared across the Korean peninsula at the men and women of Goguryeo enjoyed wearing time. A rice cake steamer in a kitchen, danc- suits; men wore a jacket and pants, and women ing, wrestling and cattle-related customs either donned a jacket and skirt, and some wore long, remain integral parts of Korean folk culture or 13 A Brush with Lively Touch 45 | 46

mercury oxide. Yellow was attained from an brown, each in varying levels of chroma and iron bearing oxide mineral named goethite, and brightness. On the northern wall of Jinpa-ri green from malachite and green earth. Cinna- Tomb No. 1, the black tortoise is flanked by a bar and malachite are copper bearing minerals, tall greenish blue pine tree and brownish cloud while the rest are iron bearing ones. White col- designs, which look almost as if rolling in the or was mostly lead white and black was shiny winds. The ceiling supports in Jinpa-ri Tomb ink. Blue was not found. No. 4 were painted over a layer of compressed goethite, and green was applied over a darker In order to attain fresh colors painting was done background to create a deeper feeling. Adorned sometimes on a thin layer of white pigment. with yellow and pink lotus flowers rendered on Anak Tomb No. 3, painted mainly in red, clear- 14 green backdrop and numerous golden dots on 17 ly showed this technique. The stone wall mu- 14. Images of the blue the ceilings representing heavenly constella- Burial Chambers in Feast of Colors rals in the Great Gangseo Tomb and the Middle scholars from the two Koreas. I wrote as the 17. Images of the white ti- dragon painted on the tions, the interior of this tomb must have in- ger painted on the walls in walls in the Great Gang- Gangseo Tomb are good examples where this following: the Middle Gangseo Tomb The beauty of Goguryeo tomb murals also de- deed looked like a paradise. seo Tomb technique achieved conspicuous effects. Partic- rives from their brilliant colors. For two weeks “Examining the murals closely during the in- ularly, the red phoenix in the Middle Gangseo No doubt the astounding beauty of colors echo- from April 19 to May 2, 2006, I participated in vestigation tour, I was particularly amazed by an inter-Korean joint study of Goguryeo mu- Tomb has better effect of red applied on a white ing around Goguryeo burial chambers was de- the brilliant colors of Goguryeo. I feel as if I am ral tombs. The mission took me to eight mural background than any other mural. In the lime rived from the color sensibility of the Korean still looking at the marvelous feast of colors un- tombs, including Anak Tomb No. 3, the Mu- wall murals of the Tomb of Twin Columns and nation. Similar coloring schemes are ubiqui- folding inside the ancient burial chambers. The ral Tomb of Deokheung-ri, the Mural Tomb of the Mural Tomb of Susan-ri, lead white was tous in Buddhist paintings of the Goryeo and thrilling hue of scarlet reverberating around the Susan-ri, the Tomb of Four Guardian Deities at partially applied on the walls to achieve better Joseon periods, the decorative pictures embel- inside of Anak Tomb No. 3 reminded me of ful- Honam-ri, Jinpa-ri Tomb No. 1 and No. 4, the effects from coloring. Bright and transparent lishing Joseon royal palaces, color paintings, ly ripe chili peppers; the bloody reddish brown Great Gangseo Tomb, and the Middle Gangseo neutral tints were gained by mixing the mineral and folk paintings. Korean paintings have tra- in Jinpa-ri Tomb No. 1 and the fascinating tint Tomb. Throughout the study I was most deeply pigments, such as cuticolor from mixing iron ditionally expressed the resplendent colors of of vermilion resembling soft persimmons in impressed by the preservation state of the col- oxide and lead white, pink from cinnabar and nature changing through the four seasons. the Great and Middle Tombs of Gangseo vivid- ors of the murals. All others in the team were lead white, and light green from green earth, In conclusion, I want to quote from my article, ly show how much the Goguryeo people loved similarly astonished. The paintings, which goethite and lead white. red colors. No less wondrous are the pink lotus “Contents and Styles of Murals,” contained were 10-15 centuries old, looked as fresh as if flowers with gold ornaments blooming from a Brown was applied in different tints such as in the aforementioned report on the survey of they had been recently created. light green pond in Jinpa-ri Tomb No. 4; the yellowish brown, greenish brown and dark Goguryeo tomb murals jointly conducted by fluttering greenish blue pine needles in Jinpa- The pigments were studied at the time. (An ri Tomb No. 1; and the human figures in saf- Byeong-chan & Hong Jong-ok, “Pigment fron yellow garments in the Mural Tombs of Analysis on Goguryeo Tomb Murals,” Report Deukheung-ri and Susan-ri. All these testify on South-North Korean Joint Investigation on to the prominent color sensibility of Goguryeo Mural Tombs of the Goguryeo Dynasty, Vol. 1, people who enjoyed luxurious primary colors National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage as much as elegantly tone-downed ones. Par- & South-North Korean Council of Historians, ticularly, the contrasting combination of red September 2006) The study was made on the and green foretells the development of Korean kinds of mineral colors and the lime and stone national painting through the Buddhist paint- surfaces that firmly held the pigments over the ings of Goryeo and Joseon, the colorful docu- 15. Images of the red centuries. Red was the most often used color. phoenix painted on the mentary pictures by the Joseon court painters eastern wall in the Middle It symbolized the aristocratic status of tomb and folk paintings by anonymous artists. These Gangseo Tomb owners and was believed to have the power to are evidently the colors of our nation that we 16. Images of the red drive away evil spells. There were two types phoenix painted on the must love and further develop.” western wall in the Middle of red pigments--reddish brown from iron ox- Gangseo Tomb ide (hematite) and vermilion from cinnabar or 15 16 Intangible Heritage 47 | 48

Traditional Childbirth Customs and Symbolism of Ritual Foods

Text by Hwang Gyeong-sun | Intangible Cultural Heritage Division, 2 3 Cultural Heritage Administration remained childless for years they sought out a rather long list of foods to be avoided to en- 2. A taboo line on a sauce Photos by Shim Hwan-geun / Topic photo Agency pot terrace. supernatural powers as well as medical assis- sure the safe delivery of a healthy baby. Among 3. A taboo line hung across tance. They believed they could have a baby the banned foods were duck meat for fear of the gate. by committing certain acts or eating specific having a baby with web feet, chicken for fear foods. For example, clothes of a highly fertile that the baby might have goose bumps, rabbit woman were coveted by those wanting babies. meat for fear that the baby might have red eyes, Eating is one of the greatest joys in life. Apart tions of major events in a person’s life cycle. Some women even carried chili peppers in a and squid for fear of delivering a boneless baby. from our daily meals Koreans enjoy a broad va- These symbolic meanings have been shared pouch in hopes to have a son. When a married While all this is hard to understand from mod- riety of seasonal delicacies and special holiday throughout communities and entrenched in daughter failed to get pregnant, her mother or ern scientific viewpoints, it can be assumed the dishes made from rich produce grown during lifestyles. mother-in-law volunteered to serve the first underlying thought was that certain physical four distinct seasons. These foods frequently meal to a woman who had just given birth. The Dietary Code for Pregnant Women features of these animals were abhorred. Today, have special purposes, including sacrifices in first meal typically consisted of warm white rice few young pregnant women attend to these old rites to pray for rich harvests on land and sea; In traditional Korean society a life cycle be- and brown seaweed soup. In reward for the ser- dietary taboos. They eat whatever they crave. peace in the family and the village; and celebra- gan with prayers for conception. If a couple vice the family would present some raw rice and They believe it is good for their baby as well 1. A traditional wedding hall brown seaweed, so they were brought home to as themselves. with a ceremonial table be cooked and eaten by the daughter in hopes she would become pregnant. It was a kind of Table for Birth Goddess imitative magic widely practiced with the belief Most births did not occur at hospitals until quite similar results would follow certain acts. recently; the majority of women delivered ba- Once a woman became pregnant she had to be bies at home. As soon as a baby was born white extremely cautious in both word and deed. She rice and brown seaweed soup were cooked to was supposed to think and behave properly to be served to samsin, the “trinity goddess” or have a good influence on her baby. Prenatal the “birth goddess,” governing childbirth and care required huge efforts on the part of the child rearing. When the baby was born at its expectant mother as well as the whole family. mother’s maiden home, the maternal grand- During the Joseon period (1392-1910), the en- mother held a simple ritual to give thanks for tire court restrained from noisy activities, in- the health of the mother and baby and when the cluding punishments, while the queen consort delivery took place at the father’s home, the was pregnant. grandmother assumed the role. After the rite, 1 The dietary code for pregnant women included the new mother ate the same rice and soup. Intangible Heritage 49 | 50

The table for the birth goddess was simply set or one from the neighborhood, to act as the with warm white rice (hinbap) and brown sea- midwife. After a baby was delivered a “taboo weed soup (miyeokguk), which could only be line” was hung across the gate to announce the eaten by the new mother. No liquor was served. new arrival. The line also served as a no tres- When the first pot of rice was cooked after passing sign. childbirth, the milky water from rinsing the The taboo line, called geumjul, was made of rice was splashed on roofs and chimneys in the rice straw twisted to the left and inserted with belief that it would help the mother produce an a few symbolic objects, such as white paper abundant supply of milk for her baby. strips and charcoal, along with red chili peppers In the royal palace, a nurse began feeding a for a boy and pine twigs for a girl. Rice straw newborn prince or princess after the third week was regarded as a clean and sacred symbol of from birth. Royal nurses were selected very farming culture, representing land, life and fer- carefully. They had to be appropriately plump, tility. The left twist indicated the non-routine neither too heavy nor too skinny, with no dis- and holiness. The evergreen pine symbolized ease and have gentle character as they would uncompromising loyalty and fidelity. influence the personality of the baby they feed. The white paper strips inserted in the straw rope Babies were served noodles on full moon days, made it more spiritual. To the sun worshiping 5 a custom of praying for their longevity. Babies Koreans, white was a divine color representing 5. A baby’s first birthday table sunlight. Charcoal was inserted for its purify- were also taken to 60th birthday parties, or the the first time on the 100th day, called baegil. made, one stuffed with other grains and one ing property. The red color of chili pepper was hwangap feasts celebrating the completion of Relatives and neighbors visited to congratulate, without fillings, standing for wishes that the believed to have the power to chase away evil the Asian zodiacal cycle. It was believed a baby bringing gifts such as clothes and threads. They baby would grow up with a solid and broad spirits. So was the red bean flour covering the would live long after eating food at such a par- were served hearty treats, including white rice mind. Those who received a baby’s 100th day white rice cake and millet balls, both special ty. Not many people lived through the cycle in cake (baekseolgi), rice balls covered with read cakes didn’t wash the vessel but returned it delicacies for the 100th day feast for a baby. In pre-modern time. bean flour (gyeongdan) and half-moon shaped with some money or threads, or rice, wishing the traditional Oriental philosophy of the Five rice cakes made in five colors and stuffed with the baby longevity and happiness. Taboo Line and Red-colored Food Elements (Ohaeng in Korean and Wuxing in various fillings (songpyeon), along with white Chinese), red symbolized creation, passion and For the first three weeks after delivery, the When a baby was expected, the family chose a rice and brown seaweed soup. love--the vitality for life. mother and the baby were carefully insulated woman who had most experience in childbirth, All these foods were made in abundance to from the outside world. In other words, they 4. A baby’s first birthday Similar straw ropes were hung over the gate of table laid out with various share with people outside the family for the were sheltered in the holy realm of birth god- a house where shamanic rites were to be held, symbolic objects first time. It was believed that the baby would dess. During this period, the mother abstained or the village shrines where community rituals be blessed with a long and happy life when the from eating meat. The family made white rice were expected. Pottery sauce pots were often rice cakes made on its 100th day were distrib- cake and ate it at home without sharing with draped with these taboo lines to guard against uted to 100 households. One hundred was con- anyone else before the 100th day. any impure elements that could undermine the sidered a perfect number; at the same time, the tastes or healthy properties of sauces, which The first birthday, or dollal, was an occasion for first 100 days after birth were seen as a precari- were directly linked to the health of the family. even greater celebration. The feast table was ous period in view of high infant mortality rates Sometimes, cowsheds also had such lines when laid out with various special foods and in front in traditional society. calves were born, suggesting the importance of of the baby the table had assorted items. For a cattle to a farm household. The five colors of the half-moon shaped rice boy there were money, threads, a writing brush cakes represented the five elements of the uni- or pencils, and a bow and arrow; for a girl the Feasts for 100th Day and First Birthday verse, the five virtues of man and the five dif- bow and arrow were replaced with a ruler, nee- While the first three weeks after delivery- re ferent tastes, culminating in the harmony of dles and scissors. The first item grabbed was quired extreme care for the mother’s recovery, all creation to protect the baby from all mis- considered an omen of the baby’s fate. Money 4 the baby’s birth was formally celebrated for fortunes and diseases. Two types of cakes were or rice meant wealth; threads predicted a long Intangible Heritage

life; a ruler and needles assured excellent man- and values of a society. Ritual foods for major ual skills. events marking the life cycle of Koreans have developed in close connection with their reli- The tradition remains alive and well. These gious beliefs. The symbolism may be compared days, the parties are given at restaurants as of- to that of Western foods that evolved around ten as at homes. And many young parents keep the Last Supper, sacraments and the Passover bringing their baby clad in a colorful traditional festival. costume to commercial photo studios to take family photos. The magic and superstitious features of tradi- tional folk customs surrounding childbirth have Ritual Foods and Their Symbolic Signifi- lost their popular appeal in modern society. cance However, the ritual foods maintain their sig- Dietary culture takes on various meanings de- nificance as symbolic legacies from lifestyles pending on the different cultural milieu of each of bygone days. Through their unique flavors 6. Special foods for a post- wedding rite where the bride society. The history of foods is intricately in- modern Koreans can relish the diverse mean- pays respect to her in-laws terwoven with the history of religious faiths ings of rites that have been forgotten.

Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage Administration

Cultural Heritage Administration, Republic of Korea Tel | 82-42-481-4730 Fax | 82-42-481-4759 http://english.cha.go.kr 6 Published | Nov 25, 2008

Published by | Cultural Heritage Administration Republic of Korea

Publication | Kim Hong-dong management Director of International Affairs Division

Content | Yi Eun-young, Moon Sun-kyong, Park Jung-eun, coordination

Translation | Lee Kyong-hee

Proofreading | Ted Chan

Design ∙ Editing | Lee Hong-taeg, Yang Hyun-jung, Yun Jin-hee

Printed by | Graphic Korea Co., Ltd

Cultural Heritage Administration, 2008

This publication is copyrighted. No part may be reproduced by any process without written permission.

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